About 10 years ago I worked in a fleet shop with garbage collection trucks. There was one of the trucks that the guys were chasing this same issue of intermittent starter not cranking. The batteries were replaced the starter replaced. Relays replaced. Finally it was my turn at this truck. Looking at what had been done. I pulled out the positive battery cable. Cut open the insulation and there it was the green fur corrosion inside the cable. That looked normal from the outside. I made a new battery cable. The truck had no more starter problems after that.
I had a 1981 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am 8081 I don’t remember black Tops gorgeous it was two tone black and charcoal and I had several friends and my older brother all really good car mechanics especially my friends and I had the exact same issue. And we are at my buddies house and it finally this was this was the buddy who pulled off all our catalytic converters instruct the test pipes on Forrest. He had a whole wall in his garage of catalytic converters whose cars they were in case we had to put them back on again, but it wound up being an exact same thing there was corrosion inside the battery cable, and this was an almost new car, but there was corrosion inside the battery cable replaced the cable and never happened again and being a turbo Trans Am without any ventilation, it got really hot, but that had nothing to do with it.
I think the same. When I was a kid in the 70s I was looking at a 426 Hemi 4 speed Cuda. My Dad wouldn't let me buy it though and because of his wisdom, I am alive today.
Whenever I have had a no crank I always take the easy old school way. Turn on the headlights and attempt to crank. I have discovered in many of these no explantion no cranks by turning on the headlights and cranking the circuit is energized. I have seen this on cars and commercial power equipment. The only thing I can think of is there is some resistance in the circuit preventing the starter from engaging. The power draw from the headlights overcomes the resistance and clears the path. I also had a 5V thermocouple in a fireplace the circuit used a 120v AC light switch this was factory design. I had to replace the switch once a year due to resistance on the contacts in the switch. I can go on with many stories when it comes to electrons flowing. There are rules, then there is reality.
Had same problem with a truck years ago, it was the alternator !!! There was an output signal from the alternator that stopped the cranking circuit energising once it was generating, problem was it put the signal out occasionally as soon as the ignition switch turned on. That was a head scratcher to find 🤪
When I worked for GM in 2012 we had several pickups with a clunk noise when you would release the brake to leave from a stop light and it was the slip yolk on the tail shaft at the transmission so we would remove it and grease it and the problem was solved.
I used to work at Stellantis and the hellcats are known for this. There are a couple of issues that could be happening Dave. The starter itself could be overheating as the engine bay gets very hot and this is a known issue. We always replaced a starter with a OE as those were always more reliable than remans. (and under warranty🤣) The second issue is that the fuel pressure sensors would get extremely hot in the engine bay and cause the fuel pressure to skyrocket and not allow the car to start. Most of the time this was happening after the car was hot never cold. Usually if the cars are cold its either starter, battery, leaky injectors or bad fuel pumps.
Yes, I was one of the first guys in the nation to figure out a hot soak no start on a redeye. Drive and go into store come out and just a crank and no start. Fuel pressure was as high as 125 psi and what would happen was the injectors couldn't stay closed when hot because the winding coils in the injectors get weaker when hot. The way I figured it out was when the car would crank and not start if I released fuel pressure from the fuel pressure port on the rail the car would start right up. This was in 2019. This same problem can happen when the car has aftermarket injectors that are weaker than factory.
This happened with my F250 for two years, would randomly not start. Had to tow it to the shop and once at the shop it started. Replaced the starter and battery...still happened. I finally realized the truck would start with the spare key fob every time. Put a new battery in the fob and re-programmed, not a problem since.
When I learned how to drive (legally, at the ripe old age of 14 in Idaho), my parents had a 1976 Ford E-250 with a three on the tree and a 351 Windsor. We had a small problem with a stuck relay (which was a well known issue). All we had to do to get that thing started was to open the short hood, and with the butt end of a screwdriver, give the relay a couple of sharp hits. It would reset itself and then we could start that beast.
@ Yep! I have done it all to older vehicles (yanked and rebuilt engines, painted vehicles, brakes were a no brainer…). I have a shop full of tools-you name it, I probably own one. But I stopped working on them when they became smarter than me. :)
Had this years ago on a Monaro, been all over town. Put a bulb on the dash wired to the starter. Theory being if the light came on and no crank it's definitely the solenoid. So no of course that would have been too easy, turned out the wiring to the neutral safety switch had drop in it intermittently due to flection.
This why I prefer mechanical over electronics whenever possible. Went to school for electronics and worked as a test technician in aerospace. Gremlins are way more difficult to troubleshoot. One weak solder joint can disrupt your world for years....😂
In IT, it's typically "oh, XYZ isn't working" then I go stand next to their desk and it works perfectly. Reason: When I'm standing there, they do all of the steps to do a task, but when left alone, they try to cut corners and the result isn't what they expected. Exhibit A: Autozone starter LOL
I had same issue on my 5.7 liter hemi. Had three shops look at it. One found nothing, one replaced battery and starter, one replaced the pig tail and relay all at cost. Still happened...no codes. Had to bring spare relays and a battery pack with me and still no guarantee I would get home for 6 months. Finally it through a code! Faulty Crank Position sensor. Replaced at 500 bucks and 2 years later 0 start issues. It became dependable again.
I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor on my sisters car. She was driving and made it to work when all of a sudden in the parking garage she lost power.. steering,break,gas all hard to press. That thing was a PITA to replace. Jeep Patriot, reached my arm into a narrow blind spot.
I had a Ford in the shop once and we replaced the starter 4 times until we finally received a good unit. It was super frustrating and the customer was starting to question our ability to repair his vehicle. It was a new unit from Napa but thankfully we got it repaired.
@ parts quality in general has gone downhill it seems. I’ve had the same issue with mechanical fuel pumps. Put 2 different moderately priced fuel pumps on my 72 Monte and neither lasted 100 miles before spilling their guts and leaving me on the side of the road. Finally bought a spendier Carter pump and it’s been fine since, fingers crossed. Had a vacuum brake booster that was junk right out of the box too, gotta love replacing those twice.
NOT a boring video. There could be loads of folks out there having an issue like this. First place my mind went was the driveline for the clunk. The starter issue made me think something was heat related, so maybe after everything heat soaks. You indicated you started it like 10 times a day, but was it ran until it was completely up to temp then shut off and then restarted a few times? What made me think of that was him saying on the phone that he went to gas it up and it did it to him, implying he drove it up to temp before filling it. I had an issue with my 1996 Impala SS where it would intermittently run rough, like it was getting too much air. A vacuum leak. But every time I took it to get it looked at it ran fine. Luckily, I picked it up from repair shop and on way home it started doing the rough idle, running. I pulled over and the repair tech came out and he figured it out. He pulled on the EGR valve and discovered it had a hairline crack on the back side of the unit. Looked completely fine, but was enough where the system was pulling air through the crack. That was weeks of troubleshooting. Intermittent problems are always that way and they happen in all types of industries. I just finished isolating a software issue at my company that I ran into months ago and never replicated. Finally a customer reported it and I was able to replicate on their system and get it submitted to engineering. So no industry is safe from intermittent issues. That customer was very cool about the whole thing. I try and be the same way especially with legit repair centers that are legit about finding issues. I hope you were able to resolve his issue with the starter.
I had to do somewhat of a diagnostic like this on my 2002 F-150. It would intermittently crank no start, but if you let it sit after a few hours it would start right up. It ended up being that my dash cluster was bad and was triggering the antitheft, because the antitheft module had a closed circuit and couldn't send its signal to the PCM to let the truck start. And that's why I hate issues like this.
i had similar starting issues when I owned a 2019 hellcat. The starting issue ONLY ever happened when the engine had been running for a while and was hot. Never an issue with cold starts. many an online hellcat forums attributed this cause to vapor lock because the fuel would vaporize in the lines before it ever got to the fuel injectors due to the amount of engine these engines create.
My BMW had me hunting for a couple of weeks only to turn out to be this (in Automatic tranny it is the Park/Neutral switch). Solved by putting in Neutral and back to Park again.
How about looking into the ignition switch/connector/connection? Ask the customer: Whenever it happens, look at and observe the instruments. (Can be a clue). I have had bad ig switch experiences before. Retired mechanic here…..in my ‘70’s good luck.
We're having a similar issue with our Ram 6.7 cummins ambulance fleet. We have gone through starters galore. Heat seems to be the common denominator. Frazier puts it on Dodge. Dodge puts it on Frazier. We're stuck replacing starters in the meantime to keep them in service. The Saga continues...
Not cranking or not wanting to get going when cranking? Is starter rpm high enough? Does it spin the engine above a certain rpm? VW won’t start when not hitting that rpm (because of emissions….) Does it suddenly shuts down at certain temperatures, won’t start? TDC sensor dodgy probably. Again? A lot of ifs to deduce
@@HymezKidd so there is something prohibiting the starter to get its signal, if it is like really time depending? My bet is inhibitor. You happen to have a different key/fob? Does that have the same issue? No? Then the key/fob with the issue isn’t recognized by the inhibitor ecu/ecm. Keys/fobs have each their own uniek rfid chip that also can have issues
Same problem on my R/T. Before I unleashed the parts cannon, I checked my clutch safety switch. Turns out the switch that makes contact with the pedal was half out of its casing. 30 dollar part is better than a 250 dollar starter. :)
I know you guys know your stuff, but 100% but from my experience owning my redeye and hellcat scat pack and shaker, the problem is usually the battery… believe it or not the battery goes below 12.5 even 12.6 on the voltage fall below threshold got an AGM second when it comes to the clunking noisein the rear put a differential brace and the a race brace also eliminate that two piece dive shaft get rid of that carrier bearing go with a driveshaft from the driveshaft shop suspension for the we enjoy your videos. Thank you. I dealt with that non-start for a while.
This one here I have told customers 1 next time it happens don't keep trying , quit and have it towed in 2 spend a lot of money throwing parts/fixes at it 3 live with it till it completely fails or faults out. They pick 3 most time, ends up being some simple electrical component though have had to pull steering column and dash to fix ... good luck. BTW 95% of the time they pick 3 when they get the estimate. lol
Check crankshaft & camshaft sensors for proper specs, operation & connection. I had the same issue with the rear end klunking in normal take offs & it turned out that one of the camshaft sensors had a broken connector clip. Therefore, while driving, it would intermittently pull away far enough to lose the connection & throw the timing off enough to cause this. That could also explain the intermittent no start issue. It took me months to find this because it was intermittent & never had DTCs when we checked the truck, until that one day & sure enough. Replaced al camshaft sensors, cleared the codes, test drive it & no issues. Rear end never klunked agai. Now if I have this concern come in, no codes, & all tests out fine, I check entire timing circuit too, sensors, harnesses, all for proper connection, specs, & operation. Hope this helps someone out there. 💯
Dave, I have have owned a lot of cars.On one car my cars there was an aftermarket alarm system on it. It would intermittently open circuit the starter circuit.I hope that helps you guys out.
Wrapping the starter always worked with my Ol 64 Chevy ll with headers I used Cadillac starter sorta a upgrade back in the day as well as asbestos wrap....They have better upgrades today..... Lols .... Always refer back to the nut loose scenarios... You know a nut loose between seat and steering wheel....Or could be electrical...⚡
I had the same issues with a Hyundai Genesis years back. What I ended up finding was that a main ground was bad.The ground wire was connected the body but the bolt threads were not making a good connection at the body. This was because the body was painted but paint wasn’t removed from the threads after being painted. I ran a tap through the threads and voila the problem was gone. My wife had been stranded several times and the car taken to the dealer multiple times with batteries, starters, starter relays etc being replaced. Once I told the dealer what I found they were very surprised. Not sure if they put out a recall notice or just a service bulletin. Had the car for 3 more years after I ran the tap through the body ground connection but never ever had another starting issue.
I believe it’s the neutral safety switch. I had my transmission on my 04 mustang rebuilt a year ago and the owner told me the starter was going out so I bought a new starter, had my mechanic put it on and told me it wasn’t starting even with a good battery. My dumbfounded moment was that the transmission guys forgot to recalibrate the safety switch so it turns on
I've seen the wiring harness be an inch too short. This pulled the terminals apart inside the plug while connected. Pull the plug out everything looks fine. Pain in the butt to find. Also pinched or tight wires.
Reman Duralast in an almost $80K now car. You can't make this up 😅😅😅. Had a guy put a $99 Ebay starter in his 2014 S550. OE starter is about $600 after tax. 100K car brand new and put a $100 starter in it 😅
When you have a situation like this, you install a remote start switch and advise the customer to use it if and when he gets stuck. If it happens and he can start it with the remote switch but not with the key switch, it's more than likely a module and/or ECU. if he can't start it, it will give you a better direction and narrow down the field of where to search.
Intermittent starting issues are the worst. Mu brand new car left me stranded and had to be towed twice and then wouldn’t start a few other times. could not duplicate it at the shop. Eventually the shop claimed it was the security key module and replaced it under warranty. I. Owned the car for 3 more months without issue but traded in. The damage had already been done, I was always worried it wouldent start. I lost a bit of money but it was worth it in peace of mind
Intermittent no crank? I would be looking at the engine grounds, clutch safety switch, then the ignition switch, then the TPM, then the ECM in that order.
maybe the client's way of riding threw a no crank, like too late clutch press or something like that, sometime there are problems that only the client can really replicate hehe
If the customer says it happens after driving for a while the starter is probably getting way too hot how he mentioned on the phone it happens when he was at a gas station and the bald rear tires tells me this only happens when the car is stinking hot as hell after a very aggressive very cycle there is a reason why the hellcats have the heat shield on the starter like that and scat packs have the same thing I would make sure the heat shield is properly in place and go test drive the thing like the customer would and drive it like a psycho person with a voltmeter inline with that signal wire and verify if has voltage on that wire when it doesn’t start that just means the starter is getting way too hot and the customer needs to take it easy on the car
Also I wanna add the fact the customer had to put a new rear end in this thing means he treats the car very badly I’m a tech at a cdjr dealer we never have to do hellcat rear ends or really any rear ends anymore they are really good quality nowadays only big trucks need the rebuilds from heavy towing anyway the customer is definitely abusing the car if he had to put rear end in it
I have been a mechanic for 30 years intermittent problems are the hardest to fix. Trying to duplicate all the conditions to get the problem to reoccur it takes perseverance but you can only dedicate so much time towards it before you reach a fine line of eating labor costs because you can't charge a customer full price for a best guess scenario.
Also check the anti theft system. When it DOESN'T crank or has a problem...se if the anti theft light is flashing. Some PATS(passive anti theft system) has its own module, in some Ford's the pids or theft system runs through the Instrument cluster. IC can actually be accessed as its own module and pids monitored and manually commanded with diagnostic software. The voktage drop test was a great test with a circuit in tact and powered. From moniter voktage from one end and at the other example ( switch to say ac compressor) and if circuit is good you shouldn't see more than I think .05 volt drop at most. Also if checking reference signals which are like 5 volt reference when dealing with modules and can network DON'T PLAY WITH POWER POINT TOOLS!! LOL. They are awesome to diagnose regular 12 volt circuits but will fry modules if applying 12 v to a 5 volt reference circuit. I don't know about the challenger specifically, but newer model dodge/Chrysler have TONS of issues with the under hood fuse/relay blocks(TIPM) One more duh things that I have overlooked myself.... New parts, batteries.... Are bad off the shelf. Load test it and be sure it passes. Drops below 9.6 volts under load its bad. And GM models like Tahoe, Silverado, suburban 04-and on have fuel pressure issues like driving and stop at the store ..cut off and come back to start in a couple minutes and the fuel pressure bleeds off.. druve with fuel pressure gauge and observe at cut off and restart. Some had bad pumps and some gas tanks wouldn't purge and get vapor locked. Any way... Rambling on... Don't make anything like they used to
Hate those reman starters. I had a customer's vehicle that I put 3 reman starters and all 3 had failed even after confirming voltage/connection and bench testing them. I advised to put in a OE starter, parts department thought I was crazy saying an OE starter wouldn't fix the issue... Finally got an OE starter in and lo and behold it started every single time. Hate those damn reman parts, and when parts people try to question a techs knowledge.
My dad had a 98 ford ranger 4.0 6 cylinder that had an intermittent start. It had 350,000 on it. He just used it to get wood, long story short it was the crank shaft position sensor. For some reason or another I had that sensor off months before and didn't gap it properly when I put it back on.
I know what you mean about intermittent electrical problems. I have a 91 Toyota Land Cruiser that has a reman engine installed in it back in 2012. The vehicle had about 280K on it at the time and has close to that on it now. After the new engine was put in I went to drive it to work on day and when I went to start it, it backfired through the intake. Computer driven fuel injected engines don't backfire! I restarted it and it ran fine. I didn't feel any shudders or stumbles. Backed it out of the garage to the street and it stalled out. Restarted it and drove off down the street and around the corner and it shut off on me. I turned it around and drove it home and got my 04 Duramax Silverado and drove that for the next 4 years until I retired back in 2016. I have poked and prodded, yanked and pushed and pulled on just about everything and cannot get it to stall out again. Now here's the real slap in the face. I'm an electronics tech by trade, but not automotive, even though I understand and can trace and repair, up to a certain point, can't do surface mount, this is such a frustration. I do understand! If it would just break... then I could fix it!!!
Great video indeed and great to see he's building a rapor to try and diagnose what's going on with the car. I'd leave the wireless ECU chip in the plug in diag see what codes it throws when it won't start.
Intermittent issues can be maddening. My buddy has a Chevy truck with that 8.1 gas motor in it that would just shut off while driving down the road. Didn’t happen often and would always start back up, never a check engine light or anything. I checked everything i could think of, he brought it to a couple different shops and they could find nothing wrong either. He still has the truck and as far as I know it still just randomly shuts off from time to time.
I have a 14 Dart and in late May it wouldn’t start one morning. Electronics would come on when you’d turn the key, but no crank. I’d replaced the battery 4 months earlier. So I figured the starter was bad. I drove my truck to work instead, and tried the Dart later after getting home, and the next day, same thing. So on day 3, called a tow truck. Driver said try starting, I said I’ve been trying for 2 days, but whatever, hopped in, and you guessed it, fired right up! I drove it to the shop anyway for them to diagnose. They had the car for a week, started every time for them, so I picked it up. Then 5 weeks later I got home from work in it, 45 minutes later went out to leave for evening plans, no crank wouldn’t start! Took the truck for my plans, and after getting home 3 hours later, tried it, started up fine! I was pretty frustrated and didn’t trust the car anymore. Figured it’d strand me soon! I remembered an issue I’d had with one of my vintage rides, where it would click sometimes but not crank. Even though the battery terminals were clean, I’d scrub them with my terminal cleaner, then it’d start. Eventually I put some white lithium grease on the battery terminals after cleaning, 10 years later I’ve never had that problem again when heading out for a car show. So I tried that on the Dart, even though the terminals and clamps showed no evidence of corrosion. Couldn’t hurt to try right? Cleaned them up, put white grease on the terminals. 4 months later the car hasn’t failed to start since. I still get anxious every time I get in and turn the key though, as I don’t know for certain what I did solved my intermittent no start issue!
transmission park/neutral switch locks out the starter relay when in a gear or unplugged via security module relay. an over speed/accelerometer fault code can also do that.
Hey Dave, just a Thought could you run a Separate wire to The starter Solenoid (pig tail) to a button up in the Cab of the car. And IF ever after fitting new starter. for some reason it doesn't start off the Key. Get The customer turn ign on hit the Button then if it turns over. You Know 100 % its not in starter, or main battery feed. ITS in the original ign to start set up. Ie Ign switch, wire to Neutral safety switch or clutch switch wiring from there to starter. And of Corse these Days starting circuit could be controlled through the Body Control module :) Check Relay! Just Gotta love intermittent faults :) Dave from Australia
ive done this to many until their TIPM fuse box came in to replace. One customer opted not to replace his TIPM just leave the switch just incase that he found that more promising.
Its the ground wire that goes from the passenger side shock tower its a stud basically next to the ecu it goes from there to the bell housing stud! Its the main ground
You have a great shop, experienced guys and yet you won't give a quote over the phone so the rest of us out here become educated on these costs. Instead, it's always "I'll have my man that gives quotes call you". Cmon Dave, you know the costs on pretty much every repair since you've been repairing these vehicles for years. Especially a starter and testing quotes. Some of us want to know the costs of a repair on particular cars. Consider quoting or listing the costs of such repairs at the end of the video or while on the phone with the customer. Thks Dave.
Audis have intermitent start issues randomly, 9/10 its the LPFP control module not sending the corrent fuel to the HPFP, the sensor will read fuel rail pressure from the HPFP and if it doesnt add up, no start or looooong starts. Completely random for sometimes weeks on end until it fals completely. Check the voltage from the controller to the LPFP, easy test. Also this doesnt throw a code.
I have always used a new starter, not a reman. The other posibility is the starter relay in the fuse box. The other thing I have done is hook an extra wire to the solenoid and run inside to a momentary switch to bypass all the other possible problems as an emergency start when it acts up.
Ooo I’ve got an intermittent problem with my wife’s F150 Roush. And it might end up at your shop here one day because an independent shop and 2 dealers can’t figure it out. And every time we’ve taken it to the dealer, they’ve shut it off and the codes it was throwing clear themselves and they aren’t stored.
I had a Chrysler 300 hemi that had starter problems. I found out the engine grounding wires(notstraps) were way too small for the current flowing it would start but later it would not because the heat in the wire would reduce the voltage for the starter. A set of grounding straps on both sides of the engine solved the problem.
Not cranking is not by definition of a faulty starter. Modern cars have a lot of systems that have to give “go” like capcon @NASA. Conditions that have to be met. Start inhibiter, did it unlock? Does the ecu give a go? Neutral/Park Switch? You need to press the brake? Brakeswitch? Is it a manual? Clutch switch? And then there is wireloom connectors, is there a incontinuity? Ignitionswitch? Relais? Lots of ifs I am missing the list of options/possibilities and the 4 “C”s But as always? Once at the Doctor? No pain At the Dentist? No toothache
It is a reman starter, if you look at the old one there is marks like it’s been hit with a hammer or some object, I recommend the battery to be replaced due to extremely low voltage and it was a battery from 2015 original and also informed that his starter was a suspect after doing a full on diagnostic with no DTC for any codes , new OEM starter was recommended
The Keyfob in the Chrysler products have given me issues before. Had to carry the second fob just in case it started acting up. feels like this is the exact same issue i had. Battery, Alternator, and painted ground connections and i used my other FOB and boom! Bobs your uncle
i am dealing with a similar issue with a 09 Town and Country. Just bought it cheap because of this condition the previous buyer got tired of putting money in. It appears to be a problem with the security. Tried another WIN switch, no luck. Disconnection the battery and then reconnect would usually get going again. Last time forgot the key was on during this process now nothing. Now have a remanufactured computer on the way coded to the VIN so is supposed to be plug and play. They disable the security as this seems to be a common problem. Current computer is a Chrysler reman dated 2019. Hoping for the best. Eventually I'll get there.
Those autozone starters are defective very often. I’ve had a few myself, my neighbor had one, and I have a client who works at autozone and he says their starters specifically come back a lot. Hope that helps!
What I don't get is you can buy a 80k+ car and go down to autozone and install it on your car because its cheaper. Nothing cheap about the car.... I sure hope that is his issue though! Intermittent conditions often suck to figure out! Best you can do at that point is just inspect all the wiring, make sure there aren't any loose connections and go from there.
Check the fuseable link, bridge the relay and/or fuse that controls the relay when it’s not working. Jerry rig appropriate gauge wire & switches, OBDII scan, etc too.
Make sure you check the immobilizer system on the hellcat..thats caused many a Chrysler vehicle to have no crank/no start issues..I don't think the starter on this car is the problem.
My 2009 Jeep grand cherokee had the same intermittent no start issue. It turned out to be corrosion on the "inside" of the battery wire to the stater unseen from the outside....I found it accidentally while changing out what I thought was a "bad" starter....Lesson learned...
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About 10 years ago I worked in a fleet shop with garbage collection trucks. There was one of the trucks that the guys were chasing this same issue of intermittent starter not cranking. The batteries were replaced the starter replaced. Relays replaced. Finally it was my turn at this truck. Looking at what had been done. I pulled out the positive battery cable. Cut open the insulation and there it was the green fur corrosion inside the cable. That looked normal from the outside. I made a new battery cable. The truck had no more starter problems after that.
Yep they do that more often then most realize.
you got it sir.. thats Imazing
Experience
I had a 1981 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am 8081 I don’t remember black Tops gorgeous it was two tone black and charcoal and I had several friends and my older brother all really good car mechanics especially my friends and I had the exact same issue.
And we are at my buddies house and it finally this was this was the buddy who pulled off all our catalytic converters instruct the test pipes on Forrest. He had a whole wall in his garage of catalytic converters whose cars they were in case we had to put them back on again, but it wound up being an exact same thing there was corrosion inside the battery cable, and this was an almost new car, but there was corrosion inside the battery cable replaced the cable and never happened again and being a turbo Trans Am without any ventilation, it got really hot, but that had nothing to do with it.
Wouldn’t the voltage drop test catch that issue without cutting through the insulation ?
As soon as customer said autozone starter I knew that was the problem
I think the same. When I was a kid in the 70s I was looking at a 426 Hemi 4 speed Cuda. My Dad wouldn't let me buy it though and because of his wisdom, I am alive today.
Very true.
Sure, but you also could've been alive with a 426 Hemi 4 speed cuda in your driveway. 🤷🏽♂️
Wonderful people skills! Great customer service is never boring on video 😊
Intermittent park neutral safety switch was my issue on my charger. Since this is manual I’d look at the clutch switch as well.
I completely agree, I replaced one recently. there was just enough "slop" in the switch to cause issues!
@@TruthSeeker63 not sure how they glanced right over that OR they checked it and just didnt tell us??
Starter relay? I think you get an error on the dash if you don't have your foot on the clutch so if it was a switch that would show
@@Screwdriversteve1 possible, I've never personally seen that one so.....
Park/ Neautral safety switch was exactly my thoughts from the start 👍
"Realistic shop operations experience" is my favorite kind of content you guys make, Dave. Love your channel to death
Whenever I have had a no crank I always take the easy old school way. Turn on the headlights and attempt to crank. I have discovered in many of these no explantion no cranks by turning on the headlights and cranking the circuit is energized. I have seen this on cars and commercial power equipment. The only thing I can think of is there is some resistance in the circuit preventing the starter from engaging. The power draw from the headlights overcomes the resistance and clears the path. I also had a 5V thermocouple in a fireplace the circuit used a 120v AC light switch this was factory design. I had to replace the switch once a year due to resistance on the contacts in the switch. I can go on with many stories when it comes to electrons flowing. There are rules, then there is reality.
Had same problem with a truck years ago, it was the alternator !!! There was an output signal from the alternator that stopped the cranking circuit energising once it was generating, problem was it put the signal out occasionally as soon as the ignition switch turned on.
That was a head scratcher to find 🤪
When I worked for GM in 2012 we had several pickups with a clunk noise when you would release the brake to leave from a stop light and it was the slip yolk on the tail shaft at the transmission so we would remove it and grease it and the problem was solved.
What about a clunk noise when you let off the accelerator going about 35 40 mph?
Diagnosing the driveline just by getting your hand on it is impressive. You pay for experience and knowledge. This shop has both.
I always check gounding 1st with electrical issues. Battery, relay, connections key switch, Starter to block (oily engine 1 time)
It's not boring. It's intriguing! We can't wait to hear the outcome!
Love these "boring" videos. Please do more!
🎉✅
Vid can't be boring with a 700hp car.
I used to work at Stellantis and the hellcats are known for this. There are a couple of issues that could be happening Dave. The starter itself could be overheating as the engine bay gets very hot and this is a known issue. We always replaced a starter with a OE as those were always more reliable than remans. (and under warranty🤣) The second issue is that the fuel pressure sensors would get extremely hot in the engine bay and cause the fuel pressure to skyrocket and not allow the car to start. Most of the time this was happening after the car was hot never cold. Usually if the cars are cold its either starter, battery, leaky injectors or bad fuel pumps.
Wouldn't the high fuel pressure condition set a code?
Yes, I was one of the first guys in the nation to figure out a hot soak no start on a redeye. Drive and go into store come out and just a crank and no start. Fuel pressure was as high as 125 psi and what would happen was the injectors couldn't stay closed when hot because the winding coils in the injectors get weaker when hot. The way I figured it out was when the car would crank and not start if I released fuel pressure from the fuel pressure port on the rail the car would start right up. This was in 2019. This same problem can happen when the car has aftermarket injectors that are weaker than factory.
This right here the starters overheat replace it and solved
Are the speakers in the trunk under the floorboard a stock setup?
@@sleeeper88 the problem here is no crank
Best customer service ever. Most people will not appreciate that.
This happened with my F250 for two years, would randomly not start. Had to tow it to the shop and once at the shop it started. Replaced the starter and battery...still happened. I finally realized the truck would start with the spare key fob every time. Put a new battery in the fob and re-programmed, not a problem since.
That makes sense since it won’t recognize the key when starting back up. Would suck if it happened at a red light
When I learned how to drive (legally, at the ripe old age of 14 in Idaho), my parents had a 1976 Ford E-250 with a three on the tree and a 351 Windsor. We had a small problem with a stuck relay (which was a well known issue). All we had to do to get that thing started was to open the short hood, and with the butt end of a screwdriver, give the relay a couple of sharp hits. It would reset itself and then we could start that beast.
cars are a little more complicated then that now a days.
@ Yep! I have done it all to older vehicles (yanked and rebuilt engines, painted vehicles, brakes were a no brainer…). I have a shop full of tools-you name it, I probably own one. But I stopped working on them when they became smarter than me. :)
Not boring at all thx for the great content
I truly love this channel!! The best on RUclips hand down
Had this years ago on a Monaro, been all over town. Put a bulb on the dash wired to the starter. Theory being if the light came on and no crank it's definitely the solenoid. So no of course that would have been too easy, turned out the wiring to the neutral safety switch had drop in it intermittently due to flection.
We have those same gremlins in IT support, it doesn't work up until your trying to reproduce the issue then it works flawless
This why I prefer mechanical over electronics whenever possible. Went to school for electronics and worked as a test technician in aerospace. Gremlins are way more difficult to troubleshoot. One weak solder joint can disrupt your world for years....😂
Mechanical over electronic whenever possible.
In IT, it's typically "oh, XYZ isn't working" then I go stand next to their desk and it works perfectly. Reason: When I'm standing there, they do all of the steps to do a task, but when left alone, they try to cut corners and the result isn't what they expected. Exhibit A: Autozone starter LOL
I had same issue on my 5.7 liter hemi. Had three shops look at it. One found nothing, one replaced battery and starter, one replaced the pig tail and relay all at cost. Still happened...no codes.
Had to bring spare relays and a battery pack with me and still no guarantee I would get home for 6 months.
Finally it through a code! Faulty Crank Position sensor.
Replaced at 500 bucks and 2 years later 0 start issues. It became dependable again.
I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor on my sisters car. She was driving and made it to work when all of a sudden in the parking garage she lost power.. steering,break,gas all hard to press. That thing was a PITA to replace. Jeep Patriot, reached my arm into a narrow blind spot.
I had a Ford in the shop once and we replaced the starter 4 times until we finally received a good unit. It was super frustrating and the customer was starting to question our ability to repair his vehicle. It was a new unit from Napa but thankfully we got it repaired.
Yep, I’ve got a 99 f350 powerstroke that the starter died on a couple years ago, it took 2 replacements from Napa before I got one that works.
@@forrestmanueljr9196 Hope does that happen? The technology for a starter has been around a long time - nothing new.
@user-pq9ji7kt4l I don't get it either! It's like they're trying to reinvent the wheel. Lol
@@minnesotatomcat it's very frustrating and shouldn't be an issue but here we are!
@ parts quality in general has gone downhill it seems. I’ve had the same issue with mechanical fuel pumps. Put 2 different moderately priced fuel pumps on my 72 Monte and neither lasted 100 miles before spilling their guts and leaving me on the side of the road. Finally bought a spendier Carter pump and it’s been fine since, fingers crossed. Had a vacuum brake booster that was junk right out of the box too, gotta love replacing those twice.
I love videos like this. Auto shop slice of life type stuff. Keep the content coming guys.
NOT a boring video. There could be loads of folks out there having an issue like this. First place my mind went was the driveline for the clunk. The starter issue made me think something was heat related, so maybe after everything heat soaks. You indicated you started it like 10 times a day, but was it ran until it was completely up to temp then shut off and then restarted a few times? What made me think of that was him saying on the phone that he went to gas it up and it did it to him, implying he drove it up to temp before filling it. I had an issue with my 1996 Impala SS where it would intermittently run rough, like it was getting too much air. A vacuum leak. But every time I took it to get it looked at it ran fine. Luckily, I picked it up from repair shop and on way home it started doing the rough idle, running. I pulled over and the repair tech came out and he figured it out. He pulled on the EGR valve and discovered it had a hairline crack on the back side of the unit. Looked completely fine, but was enough where the system was pulling air through the crack. That was weeks of troubleshooting. Intermittent problems are always that way and they happen in all types of industries. I just finished isolating a software issue at my company that I ran into months ago and never replicated. Finally a customer reported it and I was able to replicate on their system and get it submitted to engineering. So no industry is safe from intermittent issues. That customer was very cool about the whole thing. I try and be the same way especially with legit repair centers that are legit about finding issues. I hope you were able to resolve his issue with the starter.
I had to do somewhat of a diagnostic like this on my 2002 F-150. It would intermittently crank no start, but if you let it sit after a few hours it would start right up. It ended up being that my dash cluster was bad and was triggering the antitheft, because the antitheft module had a closed circuit and couldn't send its signal to the PCM to let the truck start. And that's why I hate issues like this.
I should also say I chased this for months...
i had similar starting issues when I owned a 2019 hellcat. The starting issue ONLY ever happened when the engine had been running for a while and was hot. Never an issue with cold starts. many an online hellcat forums attributed this cause to vapor lock because the fuel would vaporize in the lines before it ever got to the fuel injectors due to the amount of engine these engines create.
6:31 Check the neutral safety switch.
Came here to say the same thing. My classic will inherently not crank. Take it out of park and put it back in and it starts right up
My BMW had me hunting for a couple of weeks only to turn out to be this (in Automatic tranny it is the Park/Neutral switch). Solved by putting in Neutral and back to Park again.
How about looking into the ignition switch/connector/connection? Ask the customer: Whenever it happens, look at and observe the instruments. (Can be a clue). I have had bad ig switch experiences before. Retired mechanic here…..in my ‘70’s good luck.
We're having a similar issue with our Ram 6.7 cummins ambulance fleet. We have gone through starters galore. Heat seems to be the common denominator. Frazier puts it on Dodge. Dodge puts it on Frazier. We're stuck replacing starters in the meantime to keep them in service. The Saga continues...
Not cranking or not wanting to get going when cranking?
Is starter rpm high enough? Does it spin the engine above a certain rpm?
VW won’t start when not hitting that rpm (because of emissions….)
Does it suddenly shuts down at certain temperatures, won’t start?
TDC sensor dodgy probably.
Again? A lot of ifs to deduce
@maartendehoog8527 No crank attempt at all... Usually for a period of 30 minutes - 1 hour.
@@HymezKidd so there is something prohibiting the starter to get its signal, if it is like really time depending? My bet is inhibitor.
You happen to have a different key/fob?
Does that have the same issue?
No? Then the key/fob with the issue isn’t recognized by the inhibitor ecu/ecm.
Keys/fobs have each their own uniek rfid chip that also can have issues
Or something that needs to cool down, like a relais in the fusebox
Same problem on my R/T. Before I unleashed the parts cannon, I checked my clutch safety switch. Turns out the switch that makes contact with the pedal was half out of its casing. 30 dollar part is better than a 250 dollar starter. :)
I know you guys know your stuff, but 100% but from my experience owning my redeye and hellcat scat pack and shaker, the problem is usually the battery… believe it or not the battery goes below 12.5 even 12.6 on the voltage fall below threshold got an AGM second when it comes to the clunking noisein the rear put a differential brace and the a race brace also eliminate that two piece dive shaft get rid of that carrier bearing go with a driveshaft from the driveshaft shop suspension for the we enjoy your videos. Thank you. I dealt with that non-start for a while.
Wtf is this paragraph man. Use more commas and periods, shit's horrendous to read.
This one here I have told customers
1 next time it happens don't keep trying , quit and have it towed in
2 spend a lot of money throwing parts/fixes at it
3 live with it till it completely fails or faults out.
They pick 3 most time, ends up being some simple electrical component though have had to pull steering column and dash to fix ... good luck.
BTW 95% of the time they pick 3 when they get the estimate. lol
Omg I used to hate those……but I gotta admit. That is one badass whip.
I love these ‘diagnostics’ videos!!!!
Glad you like them!
@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville Issue may be caused by the Vehicles Neutral Safety Switch!!!
Check crankshaft & camshaft sensors for proper specs, operation & connection. I had the same issue with the rear end klunking in normal take offs & it turned out that one of the camshaft sensors had a broken connector clip. Therefore, while driving, it would intermittently pull away far enough to lose the connection & throw the timing off enough to cause this. That could also explain the intermittent no start issue.
It took me months to find this because it was intermittent & never had DTCs when we checked the truck, until that one day & sure enough. Replaced al camshaft sensors, cleared the codes, test drive it & no issues. Rear end never klunked agai. Now if I have this concern come in, no codes, & all tests out fine, I check entire timing circuit too, sensors, harnesses, all for proper connection, specs, & operation.
Hope this helps someone out there. 💯
Dave, I have have owned a lot of cars.On one car my cars there was an aftermarket alarm system on it. It would intermittently open circuit the starter circuit.I hope that helps you guys out.
Happened to my 2016 Hellcat Challenger. Was a ground strap issue. Same experience at SWOPE ELIZABETHTOWN , KY. They diagnosed & fixed it!
Wrapping the starter always worked with my Ol 64 Chevy ll with headers I used Cadillac starter sorta a upgrade back in the day as well as asbestos wrap....They have better upgrades today..... Lols .... Always refer back to the nut loose scenarios... You know a nut loose between seat and steering wheel....Or could be electrical...⚡
@@jeanlawson9133 Kevlar!
I had the same issues with a Hyundai Genesis years back. What I ended up finding was that a main ground was bad.The ground wire was connected the body but the bolt threads were not making a good connection at the body. This was because the body was painted but paint wasn’t removed from the threads after being painted. I ran a tap through the threads and voila the problem was gone. My wife had been stranded several times and the car taken to the dealer multiple times with batteries, starters, starter relays etc being replaced. Once I told the dealer what I found they were very surprised. Not sure if they put out a recall notice or just a service bulletin. Had the car for 3 more years after I ran the tap through the body ground connection but never ever had another starting issue.
I believe it’s the neutral safety switch. I had my transmission on my 04 mustang rebuilt a year ago and the owner told me the starter was going out so I bought a new starter, had my mechanic put it on and told me it wasn’t starting even with a good battery. My dumbfounded moment was that the transmission guys forgot to recalibrate the safety switch so it turns on
I've seen the wiring harness be an inch too short. This pulled the terminals apart inside the plug while connected. Pull the plug out everything looks fine. Pain in the butt to find. Also pinched or tight wires.
This is an example of why newer electronics are actually getting worse with regards to quality.
Reman Duralast in an almost $80K now car. You can't make this up 😅😅😅. Had a guy put a $99 Ebay starter in his 2014 S550. OE starter is about $600 after tax. 100K car brand new and put a $100 starter in it 😅
I put chinese starters on my mercedes (have several) and they work wonderfully.
Not familiar with these cars, but on the old jaguars, an intermittent starting fault was usually the inhibitor switch on the gear selector.
These videos are great in the morning..."But wait theirs more" 🤣🤣🤣
When you have a situation like this, you install a remote start switch and advise the customer to use it if and when he gets stuck. If it happens and he can start it with the remote switch but not with the key switch, it's more than likely a module and/or ECU. if he can't start it, it will give you a better direction and narrow down the field of where to search.
Intermittent starting issues are the worst. Mu brand new car left me stranded and had to be towed twice and then wouldn’t start a few other times. could not duplicate it at the shop. Eventually the shop claimed it was the security key module and replaced it under warranty. I. Owned the car for 3 more months without issue but traded in. The damage had already been done, I was always worried it wouldent start. I lost a bit of money but it was worth it in peace of mind
Intermittent no crank? I would be looking at the engine grounds, clutch safety switch, then the ignition switch, then the TPM, then the ECM in that order.
Crankshaft position sensors are popular on Chryslers, Fords and Mercedes
@ftffighter we're talking no crank not no start and every make uses crank sensors.
maybe the client's way of riding threw a no crank, like too late clutch press or something like that, sometime there are problems that only the client can really replicate hehe
If the customer says it happens after driving for a while the starter is probably getting way too hot how he mentioned on the phone it happens when he was at a gas station and the bald rear tires tells me this only happens when the car is stinking hot as hell after a very aggressive very cycle there is a reason why the hellcats have the heat shield on the starter like that and scat packs have the same thing I would make sure the heat shield is properly in place and go test drive the thing like the customer would and drive it like a psycho person with a voltmeter inline with that signal wire and verify if has voltage on that wire when it doesn’t start that just means the starter is getting way too hot and the customer needs to take it easy on the car
Also I wanna add the fact the customer had to put a new rear end in this thing means he treats the car very badly I’m a tech at a cdjr dealer we never have to do hellcat rear ends or really any rear ends anymore they are really good quality nowadays only big trucks need the rebuilds from heavy towing anyway the customer is definitely abusing the car if he had to put rear end in it
How can he take it easy? He bought a HELL-CAT. In his mind, he probably thinks he must drive the HELL out of it🙄🤷♂️
Agreed!
Exactly well said
@@BubblesTheCat1exactly!!!!
I have been a mechanic for 30 years intermittent problems are the hardest to fix. Trying to duplicate all the conditions to get the problem to reoccur it takes perseverance but you can only dedicate so much time towards it before you reach a fine line of eating labor costs because you can't charge a customer full price for a best guess scenario.
Also check the anti theft system. When it DOESN'T crank or has a problem...se if the anti theft light is flashing. Some PATS(passive anti theft system) has its own module, in some Ford's the pids or theft system runs through the Instrument cluster. IC can actually be accessed as its own module and pids monitored and manually commanded with diagnostic software. The voktage drop test was a great test with a circuit in tact and powered. From moniter voktage from one end and at the other example ( switch to say ac compressor) and if circuit is good you shouldn't see more than I think .05 volt drop at most. Also if checking reference signals which are like 5 volt reference when dealing with modules and can network DON'T PLAY WITH POWER POINT TOOLS!! LOL. They are awesome to diagnose regular 12 volt circuits but will fry modules if applying 12 v to a 5 volt reference circuit. I don't know about the challenger specifically, but newer model dodge/Chrysler have TONS of issues with the under hood fuse/relay blocks(TIPM) One more duh things that I have overlooked myself.... New parts, batteries.... Are bad off the shelf. Load test it and be sure it passes. Drops below 9.6 volts under load its bad. And GM models like Tahoe, Silverado, suburban 04-and on have fuel pressure issues like driving and stop at the store ..cut off and come back to start in a couple minutes and the fuel pressure bleeds off.. druve with fuel pressure gauge and observe at cut off and restart. Some had bad pumps and some gas tanks wouldn't purge and get vapor locked. Any way... Rambling on... Don't make anything like they used to
Love the honesty.. solid bro!!
Hate those reman starters. I had a customer's vehicle that I put 3 reman starters and all 3 had failed even after confirming voltage/connection and bench testing them. I advised to put in a OE starter, parts department thought I was crazy saying an OE starter wouldn't fix the issue... Finally got an OE starter in and lo and behold it started every single time. Hate those damn reman parts, and when parts people try to question a techs knowledge.
My dad had a 98 ford ranger 4.0 6 cylinder that had an intermittent start. It had 350,000 on it. He just used it to get wood, long story short it was the crank shaft position sensor. For some reason or another I had that sensor off months before and didn't gap it properly when I put it back on.
I know what you mean about intermittent electrical problems. I have a 91 Toyota Land Cruiser that has a reman engine installed in it back in 2012. The vehicle had about 280K on it at the time and has close to that on it now. After the new engine was put in I went to drive it to work on day and when I went to start it, it backfired through the intake. Computer driven fuel injected engines don't backfire! I restarted it and it ran fine. I didn't feel any shudders or stumbles. Backed it out of the garage to the street and it stalled out. Restarted it and drove off down the street and around the corner and it shut off on me. I turned it around and drove it home and got my 04 Duramax Silverado and drove that for the next 4 years until I retired back in 2016. I have poked and prodded, yanked and pushed and pulled on just about everything and cannot get it to stall out again. Now here's the real slap in the face. I'm an electronics tech by trade, but not automotive, even though I understand and can trace and repair, up to a certain point, can't do surface mount, this is such a frustration. I do understand! If it would just break... then I could fix it!!!
JXB performance makes an awesome product for the chargers and challengers that doesn't require full driveshaft replacement
I find videos like this very interesting, real life as you say.
Great video indeed and great to see he's building a rapor to try and diagnose what's going on with the car.
I'd leave the wireless ECU chip in the plug in diag see what codes it throws when it won't start.
Intermittent issues can be maddening. My buddy has a Chevy truck with that 8.1 gas motor in it that would just shut off while driving down the road. Didn’t happen often and would always start back up, never a check engine light or anything. I checked everything i could think of, he brought it to a couple different shops and they could find nothing wrong either. He still has the truck and as far as I know it still just randomly shuts off from time to time.
It's the crankshaft position sensor. I have seen that many times with the 8.1
I have a 14 Dart and in late May it wouldn’t start one morning. Electronics would come on when you’d turn the key, but no crank. I’d replaced the battery 4 months earlier. So I figured the starter was bad.
I drove my truck to work instead, and tried the Dart later after getting home, and the next day, same thing. So on day 3, called a tow truck. Driver said try starting, I said I’ve been trying for 2 days, but whatever, hopped in, and you guessed it, fired right up!
I drove it to the shop anyway for them to diagnose. They had the car for a week, started every time for them, so I picked it up.
Then 5 weeks later I got home from work in it, 45 minutes later went out to leave for evening plans, no crank wouldn’t start! Took the truck for my plans, and after getting home 3 hours later, tried it, started up fine!
I was pretty frustrated and didn’t trust the car anymore. Figured it’d strand me soon!
I remembered an issue I’d had with one of my vintage rides, where it would click sometimes but not crank. Even though the battery terminals were clean, I’d scrub them with my terminal cleaner, then it’d start. Eventually I put some white lithium grease on the battery terminals after cleaning, 10 years later I’ve never had that problem again when heading out for a car show.
So I tried that on the Dart, even though the terminals and clamps showed no evidence of corrosion. Couldn’t hurt to try right? Cleaned them up, put white grease on the terminals. 4 months later the car hasn’t failed to start since.
I still get anxious every time I get in and turn the key though, as I don’t know for certain what I did solved my intermittent no start issue!
transmission park/neutral switch locks out the starter relay when in a gear or unplugged via security module relay. an over speed/accelerometer fault code can also do that.
check the neutral safety switch, clutch cable for reference.
Add an extra ground to the TIPM. Was a Problem in 2008 and still using that module
Remanufactured starters are notorious for this Bosch in particular.
Similar issue on my 6 gen Camaro with the v8. Get a very weak start every so often. Usually on warm start
Hey Dave, just a Thought could you run a Separate wire to The starter Solenoid (pig tail) to a button up in the Cab of the car. And IF ever after fitting new starter. for some reason it doesn't start off the Key. Get The customer turn ign on hit the Button then if it turns over. You Know 100 % its not in starter, or main battery feed. ITS in the original ign to start set up. Ie Ign switch, wire to Neutral safety switch or clutch switch wiring from there to starter. And of Corse these Days starting circuit could be controlled through the Body Control module :) Check Relay! Just Gotta love intermittent faults :) Dave from Australia
ive done this to many until their TIPM fuse box came in to replace. One customer opted not to replace his TIPM just leave the switch just incase that he found that more promising.
Who else is dying for Dave's opinion on aftermarket part brands such as Dorman, Fel Pro, Duralast, Moog, Mevotech, skf, timken, Bosch, tyc, etc??
Its the ground wire that goes from the passenger side shock tower its a stud basically next to the ecu it goes from there to the bell housing stud! Its the main ground
Knowledge is power! keep up the great Videos.
You have a great shop, experienced guys and yet you won't give a quote over the phone so the rest of us out here become educated on these costs. Instead, it's always "I'll have my man that gives quotes call you". Cmon Dave, you know the costs on pretty much every repair since you've been repairing these vehicles for years. Especially a starter and testing quotes. Some of us want to know the costs of a repair on particular cars. Consider quoting or listing the costs of such repairs at the end of the video or while on the phone with the customer. Thks Dave.
Appreciate the feedback. I understand the point you're making. Problem is The videos will be out for years so we generally don't put prices on videos.
@DavesAutoCenterCenterville
I understand your point, however it would educate those like myself what such jobs cost. Even a roundabout number. Thks.
Have you guys tried testing the starter relay itself..with something like the Relay Buddy to see if there's a issue. (Just a thought)?
Audis have intermitent start issues randomly, 9/10 its the LPFP control module not sending the corrent fuel to the HPFP, the sensor will read fuel rail pressure from the HPFP and if it doesnt add up, no start or looooong starts. Completely random for sometimes weeks on end until it fals completely. Check the voltage from the controller to the LPFP, easy test. Also this doesnt throw a code.
I have always used a new starter, not a reman. The other posibility is the starter relay in the fuse box. The other thing I have done is hook an extra wire to the solenoid and run inside to a momentary switch to bypass all the other possible problems as an emergency start when it acts up.
watch the new ones as well. NEW can stand for Never Ever Worked, so buy one that is OE or at least a name brand.
It's a relay fuse under the hood in the fuse box. My old Chrysler products all had that issue and everytime it's a relay fuse.
Ooo I’ve got an intermittent problem with my wife’s F150 Roush. And it might end up at your shop here one day because an independent shop and 2 dealers can’t figure it out. And every time we’ve taken it to the dealer, they’ve shut it off and the codes it was throwing clear themselves and they aren’t stored.
Love the film sequence
I had a Chrysler 300 hemi that had starter problems. I found out the engine grounding wires(notstraps) were way too small for the current flowing it would start but later it would not because the heat in the wire would reduce the voltage for the starter. A set of grounding straps on both sides of the engine solved the problem.
Great video Dave and very educational. My brother found a good shop with you guys. Honest and experienced!
Not cranking is not by definition of a faulty starter.
Modern cars have a lot of systems that have to give “go” like capcon @NASA.
Conditions that have to be met.
Start inhibiter, did it unlock?
Does the ecu give a go?
Neutral/Park Switch?
You need to press the brake?
Brakeswitch?
Is it a manual? Clutch switch?
And then there is wireloom connectors, is there a incontinuity?
Ignitionswitch?
Relais?
Lots of ifs
I am missing the list of options/possibilities and the 4 “C”s
But as always?
Once at the Doctor? No pain
At the Dentist? No toothache
The other day I had a Ford Focus RS with a thump thump problem. Ended up being the lug nuts were loose.
Why would you buy a starter from auto zone on a hellcat?
Usually a sensor issue.. Cam or crank sensor internintent fault when warm. Or ECT coolant sensor.
Or ignition key electrical issue
It is a reman starter, if you look at the old one there is marks like it’s been hit with a hammer or some object, I recommend the battery to be replaced due to extremely low voltage and it was a battery from 2015 original and also informed that his starter was a suspect after doing a full on diagnostic with no DTC for any codes , new OEM starter was recommended
The Keyfob in the Chrysler products have given me issues before. Had to carry the second fob just in case it started acting up. feels like this is the exact same issue i had. Battery, Alternator, and painted ground connections and i used my other FOB and boom! Bobs your uncle
I have a Ram 2500 with the same problem!
I’ve seen the FOB do it. Also the proximity start can be intermittent.
K&N kills!
i am dealing with a similar issue with a 09 Town and Country. Just bought it cheap because of this condition the previous buyer got tired of putting money in. It appears to be a problem with the security. Tried another WIN switch, no luck. Disconnection the battery and then reconnect would usually get going again. Last time forgot the key was on during this process now nothing. Now have a remanufactured computer on the way coded to the VIN so is supposed to be plug and play. They disable the security as this seems to be a common problem. Current computer is a Chrysler reman dated 2019. Hoping for the best. Eventually I'll get there.
Please do a part 2 this is extremely interesting
The thump/clunk im willing to bet is the drive shaft carrier bearing. Super common to go out. Just an fyi
Those autozone starters are defective very often. I’ve had a few myself, my neighbor had one, and I have a client who works at autozone and he says their starters specifically come back a lot. Hope that helps!
Heat soak is common on them, he says he stops at a gas station and it won’t restart you gotta drive it like he would!
I have a 2011 ram 1500 lifters wore out the cam. I'm starting to doubt dodge these days.
Defective ignition switch also a potential!
Great video love the content keep up the good work fellas!
What I don't get is you can buy a 80k+ car and go down to autozone and install it on your car because its cheaper. Nothing cheap about the car.... I sure hope that is his issue though! Intermittent conditions often suck to figure out! Best you can do at that point is just inspect all the wiring, make sure there aren't any loose connections and go from there.
Check the fuseable link, bridge the relay and/or fuse that controls the relay when it’s not working.
Jerry rig appropriate gauge wire & switches, OBDII scan, etc too.
Turn up the radio full blast. See if they are pulling too many amps at the start.
Make sure you check the immobilizer system on the hellcat..thats caused many a Chrysler vehicle to have no crank/no start issues..I don't think the starter on this car is the problem.
Not boring at all!!
My 2009 Jeep grand cherokee had the same intermittent no start issue. It turned out to be corrosion on the "inside" of the battery wire to the stater unseen from the outside....I found it accidentally while changing out what I thought was a "bad" starter....Lesson learned...