Chris Sharma's Unique Crimp Technique | Ft. Dave Macleod
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- Опубликовано: 20 апр 2023
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About The Guest:
Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books.
We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, piles of eggs, Scottish climbing, and more.
This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. Listen to part 1 here 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
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Listen to the full episode 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2
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Absolutely agree! I started finger training recently and they recommended the three finger drag. When I climbed at the gym the little crimps now feel more comfortable with the drag. Feels safer as well
I always end up in a three finger drag when I'm at my reach limit
I have been climbing for 15 months now. Since I discovered the advantages of the half crimp, I started half crimping kind of everything that is possible and progressed a lot. two weeks ago, it came to my attention, that my three finger drag is so bad and I think that this discovery is a massive chance for me for improvement. time to humble myself again and build up some real strenght!
My pinkies are really small so half crimps and full crimps put lots of pressure on my pulleys. 3 finger drag has always the most comfortable grip for me, also due pulley strain…
Dave is an inspiration and I bet a really nice guy!! Great vid I tend to climb open grip that ends up as a three finger drag when I’m pulling hard and for me at least is how I generate the most force, I notice it when I’m force to use other types my fingers don’t like it lol
It always surprises me that people only talk about the depth of the edge, as the radius of curvature is as important. The radius of curvature on the middle rung on Dave's board is much larger that that on the beastmaker, making the edge more slopy.
I've always shied away from the three-fingered grip, but this definitely made me rethink that attitude.
Has anyone tried training the 3 finger drag after being exposed to Dave Macleod's shenanigans?
I've been training it for about 6 months now, and I am almost at a level where I can hang with the same weight on 3 finger drag as I hang on a half-crimp
Problem is, as I increase the weight on the 3-finger drag, it feels painful, it feels like all of the weight is hanging from the connective tissues of my index and ring fingers. If feels like the connective tissue will just give up at some point and tear.
I'm wondering if I am doing something wrong, if I should more actively try to engage the forearm to put more tension on the tendon instead of the connective tissue, or if it just feels that way but you need to just keep going and everything will be alright haha
I'm wondering if anyone else has had some experience with this and can share their experience
Don’t have anything to add but I want to leave a comment so I can come back to it
Most of my recent grip training has been isometric overcoming and attempts to close the MCP joint. Because the drag grip does not get to rely on the locking mechanism of the fingers, being passive on an edge/rung means this will often feel alike the connective tissue is simply being stretched. This is similar to pockets, except with most positive pockets we can better flex the PIP/DIP.
Advice would be to use lift implements and attempt to raise the weight in part by closing the hand at the MCP joint, or for a hangboard somewhat the opposite which would be position yourself below the edge and flex the MCP joint before raising the legs. Will be a more useful exercise, too. Will need to lower weight initially to help develop the coordination aspect of this, then should progress quickly.
I have that same issue as well. But only in the ring finger. Mine feels more of an imbalance issue though since it happens on my non dominant hand more often. I’ve always been stronger with front two and my left ring finger and pinkie are less mobile/ more connected than my right side - wonder if that has any connection as well.
Yeah I’m at about 10-15 pounds less in a drag so far. About the discomfort, be careful curling your pinky aggressively. It’s stronger that way but it can cause injury since the ring and pinky are connected. I’m think Hooper’s Beta has a video about it.
@@CJski I watched that video as well, before I started training 3fd. So I've never dropped my pinky - always kept it bent. Still feel that ring finger straining unfortunately. Super frustrating since my right hand doesn't have that issue.
I generally prefer the 3 finger drag, but I think it has led to joint issues in the DIP joint. It does seem safer overall than other crimp styles, but has its own issues.
i find with 3 finger drag you cant lock a hold down as low as with a crimp. Also find 3 drag painful to hang from in the lumbrical muscles. I am training it as much as possible to get past this
With the position I would agree and the lumbrical bit is quite likely due to an injury you forgot or never noticed (I have the same problem due to injuring my lumbrical) but with light exposure over time and training 3 finger drag with the pinky up it should help. Also let me know if the pain in lumbrical is in just one hand or both
@@yoyocherio hi maybe im misdiagnosing the pain? its just a pain in between my ring and pinky almost inbetween the knuckles. Really umcomfortable but it has improved as my 3 finger drag strength has improved. I have now started to be able to actively pull on 3 finger instead of just gingerly hanging on
@@tomhatcher1066 ah ok I don’t know what that would, maybe just tight skin but if it’s improving then it’s probably okay
Thats what i find also. I tend to lock off a lot, and 3 finger drag does not feel as secure or practical for a deep lock off
First