Asking V17 Climber How Strong His Fingers Are | ft. Aidan Roberts
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- Опубликовано: 6 апр 2023
- Listen to the full episode 👉 / follow-up-aidan-78139504
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About The Guest:
Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world.
We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more.
*He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!!
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
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20.5 kg on the pinky? Excuse me?
Fred Nicole could do a one arm one pinkie pullup; that makes 20.5 kg look like nothing impressive at all. And he is as nice as he is strong. You should interview him sometime.
The difference is that Fred Nicole uses a sling. While aider is using a crimp. It’s like comparing hanging on a jug to a crimp. Not really comparable.
this type of content and conversation is a blessing
It's really interesting that his pinkies are STRONGER than the rest of his fingers. Makes me wonder whether he trains pinkies independently or if his grip position just weights them more aggressively.
He did say that he rarely uses the three finger drag so his grip is definitely more pinky focused then for someone who always uses the drag. But then again maybe the reason he doesn't use the 3finger drag is because his pinkys were always very strong
His pinky is almost or as long as his index finger, most people's is no where near the same length, plus his ability to crimp at a high angle utilizes his pinky a lot for that. His hands are a rarity really hahaha
Long pinky and a lot of full crimping
dont underestimate the pinky! look at your palm... notice that huge muscle underneath the pinky finger? from bottom of pinky to wrist. your thumb has one too.
@@derekreavis780 Those are hypothenar muscles. They dont flex the distal phalanx of the pinky.
The more I know about climbing, the more arcane it becomes. Aidan's comments really put into perspective what we think we know about finger strength in climbing.
I swear I've already watched this but I'll watch it again goddammit
He says he doesn't have strong fingers but if it's a good hold for full crimping he's probably way way way stronger than he says.
Some people just are stronger on real climbs than on finger boards; because they really get psyched to climb and not so much to test in training. And your finger power endurance is often more critical for doing a problem or route than your ability to hang on a hold.
And learning to get weight on your feet and initiate movement from your feet are the most important things for doing most hard moves.
Really interesting how strong is isolated finger finger strength is.
jeez
Anybody know what headphones Aidan has?
B&W P5 - have had mine for years, replaced the cable 3 times but still love them