Maybe a question for your long form podcast: How do you manage transitioning between climbing at your limit mentally and climbing at your limit physically? I struggle with regaining the tenacity needed for climbing at my limit physically after a long period of say trad climbing on a completely new style that tends to push my limits mentally more than physically. Thanks!
10:24 Disclaimer, I am Scottish, but I'm a big fan of the 3-finger drag since using it to climb while rehabilitating a finger injury. Now it's definitely my go-to and I'm probably stronger with it than with half crimping. Only issue is body position, can be difficult to use as you get above the hold, crimp can be easier to move up and past.
@@alexgalays910 generally the more full a crimp the better the mechanical advantage for moving to about shoulder height, but because of this mechanical advantage and engagement of certain muscles and lack of engagement of others (extensor forearm muscles) there is far less wrist mobility and the shoulder is often disadvantaged. Thumb engagement is valuable for holds we have to move around, especially laterally where the direction of pull of the body changes. Crimps often feel more secure simply because this is a grip you can actually “grab harder” with by further hyper flexing the distal joint, but lots of disadvantages there because the angle of pull and limited mobility plus occlusion of bloodflow. Drags have similar problems but are less severe thus don’t restrict range of motion as much.
@@alexgalays910 I mean, great answer from Zachary there. I'd say it depends on the position and type of holds. If you can keep your shoulders comfortably below the holds during the traverse, open hand is totally fine. Once they get level or above though, it gets more and more difficult.
I started focusing on strengthening my 3fd about 2 years ago because of Dave and now it's hands down my favorite grip. It really maximizes your reach in a very noticeable way. You get an extra few inches to help out on long throws. it's much less demanding on the forearm muscles seeing as your joints are not nearly as contracted compared to a half crimp. Most underrated grip type for sure and sometimes people get freaked out seeing you use it if they've never seen it before. I'm still not as strong on it as my half crimp but I try to use it on every hold I can
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 actually both of the only tweaks I've ever had were when I was in a drag, although one was where I hit a hold with a crimp that slipped into a drag rapidly and the other was on the hangboard on a day that was probably too humid to be using it. I don't really blame the grip type, the more I've trained it the more comfortable and safe it becomes
Did the same thing, especially because i had the puly injury from the too much half crimp, but then i started having issues with the tendon in the finger and since it hurts when i do any open hand grip type. It's not paralyzing and i can still do a lot of training, but i miss 3fd!. Any tips on how to approach the healing process since i still train and climb outdoors quite a lot focusing on not to use open hand with the injured hand.
@@milutin98 I haven't really experienced what you're going through, but I would probably drop my training load and climbing volume for a bit and focus on getting that finger back to full health. While you can probably still climb at a good level with the injury, it's probably best to put your short term climbing success to the side and focus on getting back to full health. Otherwise the injury could drag on for much longer than needed and make much more of an impact on your long term success. Just my opinion
A helmet saved my life on a project last year. The climb was at my limit and I failed the last dyno by an inch. Hit the back of my head on a tree stump. No concussion. Made quite a loud cracking noise. Very useful on crags with stonefall too.
Nice to listen to people who have a trues depth of knowledge born out of experience. It helps also that they have good voices for presenting and are dead easy to listen to
Interesting comment re. flexibility. Personally, improving flexibility was an easy weakness to train with tangible benefits. Flexi training opened up lots of new rest positions, it became easier to hang the holds with hips in closer, and easier to high step. So, big improvements without having to get any stronger in the fingers. I guess Dave’s point is you can get by without it, maybe by training strength, but it’s such an easy win, and you can do it in rest days!
Often depends on finger morphology. Have noticed people who drag often have quite short pinkies, shorter than the distal joint of the ring finger, and an index finger about equal or longer than the ring finger. Not always true, but one I’ve seen.
What does Dave think of the WHO expert panel review on meat consumption classifying processed meat as a carcinogen, and red meat as a probable carcinogen then?
I don't know what Dave specifically thinks about it but there's a lot of people who have looked into the causation beyond the correlation. First thing to note is that it's a small but significant correlation, not a death sentence for anyone who has ever eaten salami. Second - processed meats (which I doubt Dave eats much) almost universally contain nitrites which are known to have a carcinogenic effect through reaction with other molecules. That in it's self would be an explanation. The red meat issue seems less understood and, as you mention, it isn't entirely considered a carcinogen as the correlation is even smaller. The best current explanation for a possible mechanism is based on the idea that haem iron in red meat combined with omega 6 polyunsaturated fats creates an environment in the gut that is more conducive to the development of precancerous polyps. If this is the case then what is really to blame? The red meat, or our intake of omega 6, known to be too high in most western diets and a cause of systemic inflammation (metabolic syndrome etc.)?
Great episode! I love listening to Dave.
Brilliant can't wait for the long version 😎
Dave is my climbing mentor. I’m trying to emulate his climbing & life philosophies!
Same here, which is a bit odd, since I have been climbing longer than he has been alive.
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 you have many years experience. I have been climbing 2 years now.
Me too, he just doesn't know it :)
Who will make the first ascent of the two biggest foreheads in climbing?
🤣🤣🤣🤣
omg
💀
Maybe a question for your long form podcast: How do you manage transitioning between climbing at your limit mentally and climbing at your limit physically? I struggle with regaining the tenacity needed for climbing at my limit physically after a long period of say trad climbing on a completely new style that tends to push my limits mentally more than physically. Thanks!
Will be interesting to see Dave's lattice test results!
This is the best interview with Dave I’ve heard! I want to be Dave when I grow up!!!Looking forward to listening to the long form!
10:24 Disclaimer, I am Scottish, but I'm a big fan of the 3-finger drag since using it to climb while rehabilitating a finger injury. Now it's definitely my go-to and I'm probably stronger with it than with half crimping. Only issue is body position, can be difficult to use as you get above the hold, crimp can be easier to move up and past.
Isn't crimping also better when moving laterally?
@@alexgalays910 generally the more full a crimp the better the mechanical advantage for moving to about shoulder height, but because of this mechanical advantage and engagement of certain muscles and lack of engagement of others (extensor forearm muscles) there is far less wrist mobility and the shoulder is often disadvantaged. Thumb engagement is valuable for holds we have to move around, especially laterally where the direction of pull of the body changes. Crimps often feel more secure simply because this is a grip you can actually “grab harder” with by further hyper flexing the distal joint, but lots of disadvantages there because the angle of pull and limited mobility plus occlusion of bloodflow. Drags have similar problems but are less severe thus don’t restrict range of motion as much.
@@alexgalays910 I mean, great answer from Zachary there. I'd say it depends on the position and type of holds. If you can keep your shoulders comfortably below the holds during the traverse, open hand is totally fine. Once they get level or above though, it gets more and more difficult.
I started focusing on strengthening my 3fd about 2 years ago because of Dave and now it's hands down my favorite grip. It really maximizes your reach in a very noticeable way. You get an extra few inches to help out on long throws. it's much less demanding on the forearm muscles seeing as your joints are not nearly as contracted compared to a half crimp. Most underrated grip type for sure and sometimes people get freaked out seeing you use it if they've never seen it before. I'm still not as strong on it as my half crimp but I try to use it on every hold I can
Lowest injury risk as well. I have gone from 3 pullups w/bodyweight to (after years of training) four...with 50 lbs added on!
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 actually both of the only tweaks I've ever had were when I was in a drag, although one was where I hit a hold with a crimp that slipped into a drag rapidly and the other was on the hangboard on a day that was probably too humid to be using it. I don't really blame the grip type, the more I've trained it the more comfortable and safe it becomes
Did the same thing, especially because i had the puly injury from the too much half crimp, but then i started having issues with the tendon in the finger and since it hurts when i do any open hand grip type. It's not paralyzing and i can still do a lot of training, but i miss 3fd!. Any tips on how to approach the healing process since i still train and climb outdoors quite a lot focusing on not to use open hand with the injured hand.
@@milutin98 I haven't really experienced what you're going through, but I would probably drop my training load and climbing volume for a bit and focus on getting that finger back to full health. While you can probably still climb at a good level with the injury, it's probably best to put your short term climbing success to the side and focus on getting back to full health. Otherwise the injury could drag on for much longer than needed and make much more of an impact on your long term success. Just my opinion
Dave ignoring the joke and sharing some facts about hair loss 🤣 love you dave!
A helmet saved my life on a project last year. The climb was at my limit and I failed the last dyno by an inch. Hit the back of my head on a tree stump. No concussion. Made quite a loud cracking noise. Very useful on crags with stonefall too.
9 out of 10 climbers don't like the 3 finger drag
Do you guys not have heating there? Poor Dave is sitting in his jacket there. :(
Just heating in the office unfortunately, and that is relatively new haha. Though Dave, of all climbers, knows how to deal with cold conditions.
Nice to listen to people who have a trues depth of knowledge born out of experience. It helps also that they have good voices for presenting and are dead easy to listen to
I could listen to Dave all day. Such a wealth of experience and knowledge!
@Dave Macleod The Skwama is not a stiff shoe!
Lol I know right?
will you show Dave´s Lattice result?
Dave did some filming for his own YT channel. Follow his channel for more :)
I would have watched an hour of this. Edit: just realized there's 2.5 hours of podcast lol
Loved this! Need loads more!
Interesting comment re. flexibility. Personally, improving flexibility was an easy weakness to train with tangible benefits. Flexi training opened up lots of new rest positions, it became easier to hang the holds with hips in closer, and easier to high step. So, big improvements without having to get any stronger in the fingers. I guess Dave’s point is you can get by without it, maybe by training strength, but it’s such an easy win, and you can do it in rest days!
I thought Dave really liked the LaSportiva Skwamas which is a fairly soft shoe?
Two wise men on a couch..awesome
Loved the book 9 out of 10 Climbers...
Thanks for lining up this interview!
Nice
Awesome stuff. I love Dave!
Going to put more work into 3 finger drags. Feeling inspired
What a pleasure to see Dave here !
Dave's thoughts on the carnivore diet?
Always enjoy Dave Macleod voice ASMR
Love his scottish accent! He is a great person and climber!
This is climbing version of DC and Marvel crossover
Two and a half hours of Dave and Maddy on the podcast... pure Lattice gold!!! 🔥🔥🔥
finally!!! thanks for interviewing him!
love to listen to dave!
I've been waiting for this one!! Love you guys!
i have been waitin for this sooo long. Can't wait to get geeky with the podcast
I met Dave in a tea shop in Kendal once with his wife. What a nice bloke.
Great to see Tom back. Excellent to hear Dave's thoughts too 👍
Absolutely marvelous
I wonder if there are any other steak-and-eggs carnivore climbers other than Dave and myself?
having used a three finger drag naturally, I've never understood why it's seen as weird.
Often depends on finger morphology. Have noticed people who drag often have quite short pinkies, shorter than the distal joint of the ring finger, and an index finger about equal or longer than the ring finger. Not always true, but one I’ve seen.
Where's the full length podcast?
latticetraining.com/podcast/ its in two parts :)
When's the testing video coming out???
Dave has the footage and may be planning to do something with it soon ☺️
Always so enjoyable to to listen to Dave!
Love these interviews!!
Your best guest. Dave rules.
What does Dave think of the WHO expert panel review on meat consumption classifying processed meat as a carcinogen, and red meat as a probable carcinogen then?
I don't know what Dave specifically thinks about it but there's a lot of people who have looked into the causation beyond the correlation. First thing to note is that it's a small but significant correlation, not a death sentence for anyone who has ever eaten salami. Second - processed meats (which I doubt Dave eats much) almost universally contain nitrites which are known to have a carcinogenic effect through reaction with other molecules. That in it's self would be an explanation.
The red meat issue seems less understood and, as you mention, it isn't entirely considered a carcinogen as the correlation is even smaller. The best current explanation for a possible mechanism is based on the idea that haem iron in red meat combined with omega 6 polyunsaturated fats creates an environment in the gut that is more conducive to the development of precancerous polyps. If this is the case then what is really to blame? The red meat, or our intake of omega 6, known to be too high in most western diets and a cause of systemic inflammation (metabolic syndrome etc.)?
He did an entire video on a McDo patty diet, if you havent seen it. Discussion is in there.
it is so stupid that so many people conflate processed meat with red meat. they are chemically different, intentionally so
MORE!!!
Such a guru
Hes the climbers bob ross
Legend! Steak 🥩 and eggs 🍳...💪
Reminds me of Family Guy:
ruclips.net/video/CTNhCzmUjlw/видео.html
Both of you are such great speakers