Porsche 996 Boxster 986 Inner and Outer Tie Rods DIY
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Instagram ► / kevins_european_garage
This is the last installment of my front end refresh before I get Coilovers. I used TRW inner and out tie rods. It's hard to say if I saw an improvement. I only took it for a quick ride after due to it needs and alignment. But, the steering might have felt a little tighter.
I have similar noise in my 2000 996 C2 to your earlier videos. It's sort of a 'rattle' as if the Rack is Loose.. I thought it was the left strut mount at first, but that seems tight and noise free. The more videos / research I do I am coming to the conclusion it may be the inner tie rods....
Great video and thanks for the information.
You are able to access the engine compartment emergency cable just by using two strong plastic spoons to creat some separation between the fender and the light and you can hook the cable out.
You make it look so easy! Thanks man.
Thanks 🙏
Awesome videos. Really like and appreciate the content you make about the 996 model.
Thanks for watching!
Great explaining in detail and camera work!
Thanks for watching
Hi Kevin,
Thank you so much for your very helpful and enjoyable videos! I have a '99 C2 3.4l Tiptronic I simply love (arctic silver as yours) and also try to do what I can on my own. Engine Oil, plugs&coils and tubes, rotors and brake pads, steel braided brake lines, radiator cleaning and replacing dashboard bulbs, etc. I came across your channel looking for how to renew my engine mounts--and found that we seem to have the same agenda/to-do-list with almost twin cars. So, I did the engine mounts a few weeks ago and my new drop links and sway bar bushings now came in and the weekend is here! If you needed a second pair of hands with your spark plugs... give me a shout, I live on the North Shore!
Cheers and keep up the good work!
PS What mileage do you have on yours?
PPS I keep mine on a trickle charger during the winter which has an adaptor to feed into the lighter socket. Juicing her up through the lighter might help unblock the anti-theft locks for frunk and engine compartment--I'll try it!
I’m glad you have enjoyed my videos. I’m really happy with my 99 I feel it’s the last 911 before all the electronics took over. I’m planning to do some future videos of the things you have already done. I might take you up on that offer. Sometimes I could use an extra hand.
I have 73k miles on mine and I will have owned it for a year next month.
I do need to get something I can stick in the lighter so just in case I kill the battery again. I think I would have just enough power to unlock the latches..
Stay safe!
I just acquired a 2000 Cab. Having the cable operated hood/trunk I had no idea there was a power lock so good to know this. Couldn't you just send 12v into the cig socket though? I keep a motorcycle 12v outlet jumper cable on board just in case.
You probably could I didn’t try it. I didn’t have anything I could plug in there and that reminds me I need to get me one of those. Thanks for watching!
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Yeah and I had mine in the frunk, now moved to under the seat. They won't fully jump start the car like cables, but hopefully enuf to boost it.
Where did you get that tool to remove/install the inner tie rod? I've never seen that.
I've had it for years but something similar can be found on amazon
www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Standard-Installation/dp/B08FD239G2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2VBMK14MPZGFV&keywords=tie+rod+tool+removal&qid=1655318914&sprefix=tie+rod+tool%2Caps%2C66&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyM0hSMDZKVjNPSUw5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDQ2MzIzMjVPTk1aSkJDRFRUSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODgyNzE2N0IwNE9RSTI1Uzg0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Great video, thank you for sharing.
Can I ask what ball joint splitter you us at 3:55, please?
It looked to be a generic ball joint removal tool, like the kind you can rent from an auto part store.
You can them on amazon
GEARWRENCH Ball Joint Separator - 3916D a.co/d/31GZGKi
Kevin, you're videos have been really helpful. I'm in the same boat, new to me car with 70k miles. I want to replace my struts and freshen the suspension. You've been through all the components at this point, in what order did you see the most wear? In other words, out of all the parts you've replaced, which showed most wear/tear? Thanks!
I have to think about this. In the front it would be the sway bar links followed by the struts and the strut tops. Then the front control arm links, bushings next and finally steering components. In the rear. The rear toe arms then the control links followed by the struts. I went after all the stuff that was definitely bad first. Except the struts. I knew I was going to do a coil over set up I just wasn’t too sure what one. So I replaced all the other stuff until I made up my mind on what coilovers I was gonna use.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Perfect, thanks for the reply. I'll keep this in mind as start to replace my components. If I can get away without doing some of the stuff, it'll leave more cash for the strut replacements. After some research I zeroed in on the Ohlins R&T but not if I have to replace so many of the worn suspension parts. We'll see... It'll be very interesting to get your impressions after the Feal installation because that could be a great way to save a little money.
What symptoms motivated the tie rod repair?
I didn't have any symptoms. Every time I would lift up the front end and moved the tire side to side I never felt anything. I just wanted to refresh the steering due to its age. I want to have the car handle its best after I'm done replacing everything. I would have been unhappy if I replaced all the worn stuff and installed my coilovers. Then have the car aligned and corner balanced and 6 months later have to do it again cause one went bad.
Also, I though the early cars (like my 99) had fully mechanical frunk and engine cover releases.
The levers are fully mechanical and not solenoid activated. Except that there is a mechanical lock that slides to lock them when power is lost. Its probably a spring loaded coil that when has power the pulls the lock back and when power is lost releases the spring locking the levers.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage I had a similar situation on my '99 recently when I had to lock the car after taking the battery out for a few days. As noted there is a locking plate under the levers that is power operated (The user manual also states the levers will be locked). After researching this topic a bit I went with the approach of using a small straight tip pic to slide the locking plate over. Using a very bright flashlight and pointing the pic towards the front of the car I took only a few seconds to rotate the locking plate out of the way. I would recommend that as the simplest approach. Other options are to apply a 12v power source through the cigarette lighter socket or in the engine compartment (if there is a no battery in place using a charger is not recommended). Relocating the emergency cables in any case is a good step.