Customization: "How to regrid it". (re)applying a straight brushed finish on your watch case by hand

my Modus Operandi:
- take a 400 or 200 grid sandpaper for wet use on metal: these have a finer, sturdier grid, that stays on the paper with almost no chance of uneven scratches: quality sanding paper is key here. If you want delicate brushed finish go for 400 grid, for a more apparent brushed finish go for 200. Always start high and go lower if so desired.
- take a semi-soft/cushioning round object and wrap the sanding paper around. I noticed that these corona test q-tip tubes work very well. This will even out the pressure while sanding. You could also use the tip of your finger, since that cushions also, but I find it to be more difficult to keep the angle constant that way, which is key for a nice finish. So on a flat surface I rather use a tube.
- now take the watch case in a fixed position. If you are going to do this by hand lock the case in your fingers with your lower arm against your chest for support. The direction of your intended brushing should be almost perpendicular to your body. Now take the sanding paper (wrapped tight around its core) in your other hand across the surface you want to work at, with your wrist in a fixed position. The sanding motion comes from the elbow instead to get an even and straight brushed effect and should only be performed by complete even strokes across the whole surface. It is best to trust the even motion of your arm, while you use the edge of your cap as a general visual reference.
- Your motion should go as quick as you trust yourself to control. The slower your stroke, the more wonky your motion and result might become due to micro adjustments throughout each pass. Slow motion is not always best in my opinion.
- make sure you keep the angle and don't touch other surfaces than intended for crisp edges. On a flat surface let the contact with the straight sanding paper core quide you.
- work out the surface until you get an even result throughout. Apply the same amount of pressure untill you are satisfied. If you apply more pressure on harder to reach spots, this might result in a different shimmer in these areas. The general trick is even and consistent results through even and consistent motion, carried by patience.
- on the side of the crown: pull it out as far as possible and first work with the wider tube from the crown to the edge on each side. Then switch to a smaller diameter medium, like a sate skewer or match stick. Keep working the complete surface untill satisfied. It might be possible to really get in there with your sanding paper, however I prefer to leave a straight edge against the crown. that little neat square of polished metal around the crown can be a feature of itself, a handprint of customization, plus it shows the difference in surface quite spectacularly.
- don't overdo it. The most bitter tasting errors happen in the final strokes. I know this could be taken out of context, but no that is clearly not what I mean.
- I use this method on different materials even titanium. Contrary to popular believe pure titanium is not so much more scratch resistant compared to steel and almost just as easy to work with where it comes to surface finishes. It is not so much more difficult to scratch/sand, it is just that it is much harder/tougher in relation to its density. You can use this method for titanium, silver or gold rings as well. Avoid this method on tungsten carbide, that stuff is just to hard, unless you have sanding stuff made out of diamonds.
- as always, I cannot and will not be held responsible for your skill, choice of working materials and results and satisfaction thereof in this matter. This is not so much advice as it is a discription of the method that I use and are content with. You decide for yourself wether or not you work on your watch. So before you start adorning your Rolex, take that into contemplation 😉.
now, happy scratchings.
Erratum:
0:35: of course I misspoke. it has not an NH35, bun NH36 movement.

[@buying_Time]

I wanted to stress that the tubular/cushioning sanding core you choose shouldn't be too soft, or it will fold over the edges resulting in sloppy results. You shouldn't need to apply much pressure too. You might as well test what works best for you on an old watch that has gone out of favour and use.