Hi Steve and everyone interested in this system for the 14-24mm lens. To update, as Steve says in the comments here, the new version of this system is a three parter. Two of the parts are fixed together and you offer them onto the lens from the rear, just like Steve shows you. These have a black base and a red ring which rotates, put it on with the red ring to the front of the lens. The round filter holder / lens hood part is then offered from the front of the lens and simply screws together onto the red ring fitted in the first part of the process. Tighten it up, it is simple. There is no narrow black ring to fit from the front, where Steve mentioned touching the lens element. The whole filter frame / lens hood just screws on, so you don't need to put fingers anywhere near your glass. The rest is identical to the video. You carefully thread the polarizing filter, 145mm circular diameter, onto the front of the lens hood / filter frame and tighten it up a little. The lens cap protects it all, so you can leave it assembled like this for as long as you like. I love it, and with the 6.6" extenders, I can even fit a grad filter over it all as well - or any ND or whatever you want. It is not hard to do, once you've fitted it once and figured it out. The results are lovely - which is what it is all about. So glad I found the video a few months ago, it got me started on getting hold of the Wonderpana core system and then adding the 66 adaptor to let me use the square grad filters. Vignetting is not a problem, but I shoot 5x4 format on a D810 so the original corners are clipped off anyway. I did try it at 3 : 2 and a very slight vignetting is visible, but vanishes in photoshop, dxo optics pro, and lightroom. A little pricey but when you consider the price of the lens - silly not to have one.
Hi Steve, When I was researching a polarizer for my 14-24, your video was the best help! I bought the updated version in 2017. It is one of the best investments I have made. Thanks SOOO much!
Since this video in 2013, the Wonderpana has been updated. It no longer has a 3 piece mount. The mount is in 2 pieces, with the hood having built-in tabs to fit into the petal, and attaches from the front. The 2nd piece is a locking ring that goes over the back of the lens and screws to the hood. Much simpler and easier to install. The polarizer is great. It does not appear to have any color cast. I have 2 ND filters for it, a 3 stop and a 10 stop. I find both have serious color casts, which fortunately, can be corrected in LR. If you wish to use the rectangular graduated ND filters, you'll need to get the version that has the "ears" that allow those rectangular filters to mount. Be aware that as of 2 years ago, when I bought mine, there were 2 versions of the hood with the ears, and one did NOT rotate. Be careful to make sure you get the one that rotates if rotating the filter to match a horizon line is important. Otherwise, it's great, and the best option out there. Mine stays on the lens all the time because I use it a lot, and putting it on, as simple as that has become, still takes too much time.
Advantage of the Lee system is that they make a filter holder and a separate lens adapter and so one can save money and have a more compact kit if using multiple lenses, for example the Nikon 14-24mm and the Nikon 19mm PC-E tilt shift lens.
Cheers steve...I looked at the wonderpana site and it looks like they have changed the design a bit...the rear now sports a red locking collar and it seems its now a two piece deal ..
Thanks Steve, hadn't heard of this until seeing this vid and had always resisted the 14-24 because of the filter issue. Now looks like I may take the plunge (if my bank manager will allow it!)
Great video. Questions: 1. How thick is the metal ring around the Fotodiox polarizer that you used? I presume this is the standard CP filter. Fotodiox now offers what they call an "Ultra Slim" polarizer which is listed as being only 6mm thick. Strangely enough there is no information anywhere that I have been able to find about the thickness of their standard CP filter, not even on the Fotodiox website. 2. Have you tried the "Ultra Slim" 6mm polarizer, and does it make a difference on eliminating or reducing the vignetting? 3. Have you tried any of their "Ultra Slim" filters (at present the others are all ND filters and are listed as 3mm thick) and do they get rid of the vignetting problem? 4. Any idea how thick the Fotodiox UV filter is? This is not labeled as an "Ultra Slim" version and so is presumably thicker than 3mm. I am guessing around 5-6mm thick. 5. If you have used any of the other Fotodiox filters, any idea at what thickness of filter the vignetting problems appear/disappear at the maximum 14mm F2.8 setting of the Nikon 14-28mm lens? I would like to use the UV filter as a lens protector, and would like to avoid the vignetting problems of the Fotodiox system with the CP filter also. Unless the 145mm width is simply too small of a design, the thinner filters should be able to avoid the vignetting problem - this has been my experience with other ultra wide angle lenses also. The "Ultra Slim" Fotodiox filters are much more expensive. They are also described as "MultiCoated", including the Ultra Slim CP filter. Any idea if this helps with the flare problems?
I have to say, I only have the regular filter from fotodiox - I don't think they had the ultra slim versions available when I purchased mine. I can tell you that the vignetting really isn't a huge problem and easily fixed with a little work in photoshop - and it really only shows up at 14mm in the small of the corners.
Hi Steve. Thanks for everything. I bought most of your books and watch all your videos. I just bought the Nikon 14-24 2.8f. Do you still recommend the wonderpana polarizer kit? Can you get ND filters that will work with is kit or are you using something else now?
Yes, if you look only at the center of the image, the filter will not degrade the image quality. If you looked at the corners, you will definitely see image quality degradation. The reason is you simply cannot put a flat filter on a bulbous wind angle lens. The filter must fit the curvature if the front element of the lens to work properly. This filter will compromise image at the corners being a flat filter.
First time watching your channel. Great job, like your upbeat attitude. I was on Dave Dugdales channel and saw your vid on his viewing list. You guys are supper awesome.,looking forward to watching more vids from your channel. Thanks and take care...
Sold! Even though I've watched a few videos of this device I have to say your demo is exactly what I needed. Besides, the darn thing makes' the 14-24 look pretty darn sweet in terms of adding additional frontal protection. I do worry a bit with that note about care with tightening. Is it so sensitive that if I accidently tap the edge of the lens cap, it could 'easily' damage the lens?
Thanks - If the adapter does mark, I haven't noticed it and I have it on all the time. Although my 14-24 had seen a LOT of use prior to my purchase of the adapter, so it wasn't pristine to begin with :)
Would be nice if there was a way to adapt a Lee Big Stopper. The last time I used a screw-in variable ND filter there was a weird Maltese Cross shaped vignette at a certain point.
Another great video. I am a proud owner of the 14-24 and I might have to look into this. One quick question. If you do not use a ND filter, how did you get such beautiful silky water? Thanks again!
I shoot when the light is low, first thing in the AM or last in the PM - or in overcast. Most of the time I have a problem with exposures getting too long, rather than not long enough.
Casey Bassett Depends on the flow. My goal is always to show nice smooth motion while still keeping good detail in the water. When the shutter speed drops too low, any detail gets destroyed. However, it's tough to say just when that happens - it's always specific to the waterfall. Most of the time I'm happy in the 1/2 second range, but sometimes that's too long, sometimes it's not long enough. I think most waterfalls start to lose detail when you get upwards of 4 seconds, but again, it really depends on the falls.
Steve, how would you rate the 16-35 f/4.0 for the kind of pictures you've shown in this video? That lens accepts 77mm filters (and I've used it with Neutral Density and Polarizer filters). By the way - Thank you! Fantastic videos..
Hi - Honestly, I tried 2 copies over the years and neither was anywhere close to my 14-24. I think others have had a lot better luck with it, but personally, I'm going to stick with the 14-24.
Dear Steve, Just nowI saw the video. It is a wonderful video. I have the same lens and I am using it with my D7100..As everybody knows it is a great lens. After seeing this video, I am planning to buy this Filter. The kit includes Polarizer filter, right?. In the video you have showed the vignetting while taking photos using this filter. Does it exist throughout the entire zoom range?. Does the vignetting is high or very low?. If i Use the lens in my D7100, will there be vignetting in the photo?..I want to know one more thing that does it affect the sharpness of the photo if i use it with D7100?. Waiting for you Reply.. Thanks In advance.. Satheesh Thomas..
Hey man, this adapter looks amazing, especially because you are not restricted to 90° moves like with the rectangular polarizers on a 150mm kit. Does the Fotodiox Wonderpana kit offer ND and ND grad filters to put in there as well? Then I'd seriously consider it over the LEE kit!
I don't think they have grad NDs, but I know they have regular ND filters (I've not used them however). Another nice thing that people forget about - you can just put the included lens cap on the whole thing, so much easier to pack / unpack than the square system IMO.
I have the 16-35 and as far as I understand the reviews, the 16-35 is brilliant, but cant compete with the 14-24 when it comes to sharpness and distortion control.
I really enjoy this system, but I don't like there's no way on the 145mm adapter to combine Polarizing filter WITH ND filter? Do I need the square system as well to do this from them?
That vignetting goes away because of the distortion correction done when you check that box…not from a standard anti-vignetting feature. All superwides basically get narrower slightly when the distortion correction does its thing. Just something to be aware of.
This is correct, you can see the little amount of image you lose from using the lens correction. Sometimes you don't want to use lens correction because it physically makes the photo look different.
question how was the quality of ND filters optically... I am sticky about those things thanks... any color shift? or should i say how much color shift thanks again Andrew
Man... first off great review. I am looking to switch from my canon 5D Mark 4 to a Nikon d810 or maybe D820 if it comes out fast enough. The 5D Mark 4 is an amazing camera but I have received 2 brand new defective cameras. So I'm looking to switch. I was hoping this filter was a little easier to assemble. I am often using my polarizer along with an ND filter I screw on to my canon 16-35. Can you recommend any other amazing Nikon wide angle lenses that don't have that crazy front element? I heard this lens is incredible but I don't know if I could deal with this filter setup lol. Can you stack an nd along with the polarizer?
Sorry, the closest lens is the one you're using. If you want the quality of the 14-24, then you gotta go 14-24 and put up with the filter :) Oh, and I don't think stacking would work unless you were longer than 17~19mm. The polarizer is very close to vignetting, so adding another filter will cause it for sure.
Some people say the lens has scratched the lens or does not fit over time, do you still use this filter system, did you have any problems with it or did it any damage to your lens? thanks for your time Steve!
ProgamerEU I've heard this too. I don't think I've had any damage, my lens barrel seems to look OK after using the setup. However, I very seldom remove it and my lens wasn't overly perfect to begin with, so it's tough to say. I don't have any marks or abrasions I would definitely pin on the system though. I sometimes wonder if people having issues maybe had some debris under it they didn't know about before it was attached.
How would they use a 10 stop and 3 stop and a grad rectangular filter? Does the 3 stop round filter screw onto the 10 stop round filter? To refocus, one would have to undo everything, focus and screw everything back on? Thanks.
All your components for the Wonderpana are black, but I see them with a red ring. What is the difference? Have you heard of the Kase system, which is wider (150mm and 170x170mm) and might not vignette?
Great stuff is made in China but they make 3 quality levels, German quality, Japanese quality, and American quality and the latter is what ends up being sold in big box stores like Wal-Mart and Harbor Freight. The German quality goods are better than what one can find being sold in the USA. Americans have a well-earned reputation of caring more about the price than the quality of goods (as evidenced by the great success of Wal-Mart and Harbor Freight).
I think Nikon has some stock shares in these filter companies. LOL Trying hard to choose between the 14-24 or the Nikon 16-35 Hmmmm! Both are on sale at B&H at this time.
Get the Nikon 14-24 lens. I have owned mine for about 5 years. That 14mm focal length at the wide end can be handy in some situations. I also have the Lucroit Filter adapter for it, and a 165mm x 200mm two (2) soft, soft edge filter for it as well. ( I haven't used the filter yet. Very simple and fast method of using the adapter BTW.)
Peter G Thank's Peter, it's been so long I almost thought you weren't around anymore. LOL Were not getting any younger ya know ;-) LOL How are your eyes with manual focusing, I'm 56 and they're not getting any better. Only reason I ask is because after I wrote to you about the 14-24 I read about the Zeiss 15mmm 2.8 but it's Manual focus :-( But takes filters :-) Just asking. LOL I do appreciate your answers.
hawg427 I haven't been doing any photography for quite a while now. Just purchased a Nikon 24~70 mm f2.8 to compliment the Nikon 14~24 lens , and my Nikon 70~200mm f2.8 ( 2007 version) . I suffered a major stroke 3 years ago, and its taken me that long to even think about photography. I'll get there. I was planning a trip to Cambodia, but, a friend of mine there advised me the weather has been lousy, so, I will wait for a while. All the best....
hawg427 Greetings :-) Just received your e-mail . Not getting any younger either. I turn 67 in May, 2015. Think I mentioned that I purchased the Lucroit adapter for my Nikon 14-24mm f2.8. The adapter is very easy to fit on the lens. You don't have to take the lens off the camera to fit the adapter. The Lucroit system consists of a ring which fits onto the lens ( from the front ). and it can stay there. Then, the Filter Holder clips onto the adapter ring. I have a 165mm x 200mm two(2) stop, soft edge graduated filter. Only problem is that you can't use the Nikon front lens cap with the setup. So, I purchased a couple OpTech Soft lens hoods. Leave the Lucroit adapter ring on the lens body, then fit the OpTech lens caps. Put one on the lens, then fit another over the first one. ( Double the protection ). Hope this is of interest.
Peter G Sorry to hear about your stroke, it sure doesn't show on any of your videos. I retired 4 yrs. ago from being a Paramedic/Firefighter in Fl. I told my Wife I'd rather have a good old fashioned heart attack than a stroke. Too many side effects on the stroke side. Keep taking those blood thinners Peter :-) Keep putting out those videos, I really enjoy them.
Although my question seem strange, there is a good reason to ask! I am interested if it is possible to mount two circular filters one above the other, for example two UV filters together or a CPL and UV above it? Thank you in advance!
+Evelina Todorova The filters are all threaded, so you can mount two together (not sure why you would, but you can). However, at 14mm this setup with a single filter is just on the edge of vignetting, so if you add another filter you'll see vignetting for sure, probably until 16 or 17 mm.
Thank you for the fast and complete answer. The second one is just to protect the first while positioning the camera and searching for the good composition, because the conditions for shooting are like high humidity in the air, waves from the ocean and strong wind that brings dust from the desert.
Hello Sir, Does this kit comes with Polarize filter ? can u provide the exact link for the product ? Also i m planning to buy a ND filter which one to buy ND16 or ND 32 for the same kit.
The current version of my polarizer kit is this: www.fotodioxpro.com/wonderpana-145-essentials-kit-system-holder-lens-cap-and-cpl-filter.html If you search their site for "wonderpana 145" you'll get a TON of options though and configurations though.
+Steve Perry A year later and the current version now is: www.fotodioxpro.com/fotodiox-pro-filter-adapter-kit-145mm-with-circular-polarizing-filter-cpl-kit-for-af-s-nikkor-14-24mm-f-2-8g-ed-nikon-lens-filter-adapter-lens-cap-cpl-filter.html
It was in the description, but it looks like it's gone - I replaced it, but just in case, here ya go: www.backcountrygallery.com/photography_tips/fotodiox-wonderpana-145-review/
Issue 1: The WonderPana Split Grads has a major defect, showing colorful stress patterns or "stress induced birefringence" when used with the polarizer. Optical manufacturers are supposed to be on the lookout for this sort of thing. Terrible manufacturing and no warning from Fotodiox about this even though they know it's a problem (as I was the one who discovered the issue while I was testing it in their parking lot.) Here's a website that shows this kind of effect: www.flickr.com/photos/shortbread1015/2908842203/in/gallery-physicsclassroom-72157625101670351/. Issue 2: Vignetting is not that easy to remove in post when you're not working with clear areas like leaves, branches, etc. The angle of view of the 14-24mm lens gets wider as you focus closer than 1 meter. I estimate that the lens gains a maximum of 0.5mm at focusing distances of about 2 feet, resulting in a 13.5 - 23.5mm lens. Unfortunately, the designers didn't account for this extra widening, hence the vignetting. I happen to focus at 2 feet almost all the time in my landscape photography, therefore I usually shoot at 15mm to avoid the problem when using the polarizer.
@@backcountrygallery Hi Steve, thank you. I finally solved my problem. I noticed that the filter was incorrectly screwed so I put in on the fridge for 30 minutes and then pushed it down around the edge and suddenly it clicked so I can finally unscrew the filter. I guess I was lucky. Thanks
Please fellow photographer. In your experience does this filter damage or scratches your lens. i read this review and putting off to buy, i can only ask people who honestly have used it. Look: This was a nice idea, but beware, these units cause all kinds of problems including leading to lens damage. The unit has bare metal tension fasteners. After only a couple of uses, I noticed significant gouging on both the lens hood and the lens diaphragm (at 14mm, the diaphragm rides right up to the edge of the hood). The unit also creates metal dust every time I use it, leading me to have to clean it just to install it. Lastly, it comes loose all the time, which leaves me having to remove it from the body and tighten it back up. If you leave it connected to the body while you tighten it, then you'll risk damaging the aperture rod in your camera, and causing damage to both the lens and the body. If you really need a CPL or ND filter, get a Nikon 16-35, and use your precious 14-24 for everything else. On the other hand, if you like having a cheap piece of metal damage a $2,000 lens, then by all means, buy this product. I APPRECIATE YOU INSIGHT!
+Marcos Enrique II Ruiz Rivero (Aviel is Superguide) I have heard this before, but I have never had any issues. Mine stays on all the time and has not come loose or scratched the lens.
+Steve Perry hey Steve, i finally got my fododiox. you were right it doesn't scratch any thing. I have some other questions,. but before i want to thank you for your insights, I like your attitude there are a lot of photographer out there full of themselves. tell me which ND filter do you recommend if i want to create this milky shape on water. remember they are pretty expensive for this lens. which is better in your opinion, 5 or 3 stops? thanks in advance.
Hi Steve and everyone interested in this system for the 14-24mm lens. To update, as Steve says in the comments here, the new version of this system is a three parter. Two of the parts are fixed together and you offer them onto the lens from the rear, just like Steve shows you. These have a black base and a red ring which rotates, put it on with the red ring to the front of the lens. The round filter holder / lens hood part is then offered from the front of the lens and simply screws together onto the red ring fitted in the first part of the process. Tighten it up, it is simple. There is no narrow black ring to fit from the front, where Steve mentioned touching the lens element. The whole filter frame / lens hood just screws on, so you don't need to put fingers anywhere near your glass. The rest is identical to the video. You carefully thread the polarizing filter, 145mm circular diameter, onto the front of the lens hood / filter frame and tighten it up a little. The lens cap protects it all, so you can leave it assembled like this for as long as you like. I love it, and with the 6.6" extenders, I can even fit a grad filter over it all as well - or any ND or whatever you want. It is not hard to do, once you've fitted it once and figured it out. The results are lovely - which is what it is all about. So glad I found the video a few months ago, it got me started on getting hold of the Wonderpana core system and then adding the 66 adaptor to let me use the square grad filters. Vignetting is not a problem, but I shoot 5x4 format on a D810 so the original corners are clipped off anyway. I did try it at 3 : 2 and a very slight vignetting is visible, but vanishes in photoshop, dxo optics pro, and lightroom.
A little pricey but when you consider the price of the lens - silly not to have one.
Hi Steve, When I was researching a polarizer for my 14-24, your video was the best help! I bought the updated version in 2017. It is one of the best investments I have made. Thanks SOOO much!
Just wow. Cant wait to get more in depth with photography. Thanks Steve.
Since this video in 2013, the Wonderpana has been updated. It no longer has a 3 piece mount. The mount is in 2 pieces, with the hood having built-in tabs to fit into the petal, and attaches from the front. The 2nd piece is a locking ring that goes over the back of the lens and screws to the hood. Much simpler and easier to install.
The polarizer is great. It does not appear to have any color cast.
I have 2 ND filters for it, a 3 stop and a 10 stop. I find both have serious color casts, which fortunately, can be corrected in LR.
If you wish to use the rectangular graduated ND filters, you'll need to get the version that has the "ears" that allow those rectangular filters to mount. Be aware that as of 2 years ago, when I bought mine, there were 2 versions of the hood with the ears, and one did NOT rotate. Be careful to make sure you get the one that rotates if rotating the filter to match a horizon line is important.
Otherwise, it's great, and the best option out there. Mine stays on the lens all the time because I use it a lot, and putting it on, as simple as that has become, still takes too much time.
Thanks. I learned a lot on this one. Not sure if you saw my wide angle lens review. I did know about the sky issue.
thanks for taking the time to be thorough
Good to see this, an alternative to the Lee Filter SW150 System
Advantage of the Lee system is that they make a filter holder and a separate lens adapter and so one can save money and have a more compact kit if using multiple lenses, for example the Nikon 14-24mm and the Nikon 19mm PC-E tilt shift lens.
Great review Steve Perry, heard about the WonderPana from Marc Muench. Will be getting one for my Tokina 16-28mm
Good info. Looking for a filter for my 17mm Tilt Shift for Real Estate shots.
I think most of your video covers the questions I have.
Thanks
Cheers steve...I looked at the wonderpana site and it looks like they have changed the design a bit...the rear now sports a red locking collar and it seems its now a two piece deal ..
Yeah, just after my review came out they did the new design - however, people tell me it's even better.
Steve - Never commented before, but I just want to say big thanks for ALL your informative,. well-presented vids.
Awesome review! Thank you for your work Steve. I will get one of these for my 14-24
Hey thanks for the vid. Waiting for october 1st for the company to realease this for my Canon 11-24. All the best.
Beautifully presented. Helped me right out on this issue. Big thanks!
I really enjoy your style Steve. This is on my short list for my on the way Tamron 15-30! Still using after all this time I assume.
Still using it :)
Thanks Steve, hadn't heard of this until seeing this vid and had always resisted the 14-24 because of the filter issue. Now looks like I may take the plunge (if my bank manager will allow it!)
Great video.
Questions:
1. How thick is the metal ring around the Fotodiox polarizer that you used? I presume this is the standard CP filter. Fotodiox now offers what they call an "Ultra Slim" polarizer which is listed as being only 6mm thick. Strangely enough there is no information anywhere that I have been able to find about the thickness of their standard CP filter, not even on the Fotodiox website.
2. Have you tried the "Ultra Slim" 6mm polarizer, and does it make a difference on eliminating or reducing the vignetting?
3. Have you tried any of their "Ultra Slim" filters (at present the others are all ND filters and are listed as 3mm thick) and do they get rid of the vignetting problem?
4. Any idea how thick the Fotodiox UV filter is? This is not labeled as an "Ultra Slim" version and so is presumably thicker than 3mm. I am guessing around 5-6mm thick.
5. If you have used any of the other Fotodiox filters, any idea at what thickness of filter the vignetting problems appear/disappear at the maximum 14mm F2.8 setting of the Nikon 14-28mm lens?
I would like to use the UV filter as a lens protector, and would like to avoid the vignetting problems of the Fotodiox system with the CP filter also. Unless the 145mm width is simply too small of a design, the thinner filters should be able to avoid the vignetting problem - this has been my experience with other ultra wide angle lenses also.
The "Ultra Slim" Fotodiox filters are much more expensive. They are also described as "MultiCoated", including the Ultra Slim CP filter. Any idea if this helps with the flare problems?
I have to say, I only have the regular filter from fotodiox - I don't think they had the ultra slim versions available when I purchased mine. I can tell you that the vignetting really isn't a huge problem and easily fixed with a little work in photoshop - and it really only shows up at 14mm in the small of the corners.
Just ordered the 14-24 literally 10 minutes ago. Looks like I will have to pick one of these up once the bank account recovers. Thanks for the video!
Haha, I love the opening montage in these old videos!
Hi Steve. Thanks for everything. I bought most of your books and watch all your videos. I just bought the Nikon 14-24 2.8f. Do you still recommend the wonderpana polarizer kit? Can you get ND filters that will work with is kit or are you using something else now?
Keep these coming Steve! Loving your vids!
Yes, if you look only at the center of the image, the filter will not degrade the image quality. If you looked at the corners, you will definitely see image quality degradation. The reason is you simply cannot put a flat filter on a bulbous wind angle lens. The filter must fit the curvature if the front element of the lens to work properly. This filter will compromise image at the corners being a flat filter.
First time watching your channel. Great job, like your upbeat attitude. I was on Dave Dugdales channel and saw your vid on his viewing list. You guys are supper awesome.,looking forward to watching more vids from your channel. Thanks and take care...
Really excellent review. Thanks for your efforts.
Sold! Even though I've watched a few videos of this device I have to say your demo is exactly what I needed. Besides, the darn thing makes' the 14-24 look pretty darn sweet in terms of adding additional frontal protection. I do worry a bit with that note about care with tightening. Is it so sensitive that if I accidently tap the edge of the lens cap, it could 'easily' damage the lens?
will this fit on samyang 14mm f2.8?? or can u suggest filter holder and polarizer for this lens??
Thanks Steve
Thank you! 🇺🇸
Actually the locking system has changed, and it is much easier to assemble on the lens now. Even better !
Hi..does the adapter mark the lens when its fitted, particularly after a lot of use ?..great review mate ..cheers
Thanks - If the adapter does mark, I haven't noticed it and I have it on all the time. Although my 14-24 had seen a LOT of use prior to my purchase of the adapter, so it wasn't pristine to begin with :)
Would be nice if there was a way to adapt a Lee Big Stopper.
The last time I used a screw-in variable ND filter there was a weird Maltese Cross shaped vignette at a certain point.
Another great video. I am a proud owner of the 14-24 and I might have to look into this. One quick question. If you do not use a ND filter, how did you get such beautiful silky water? Thanks again!
I shoot when the light is low, first thing in the AM or last in the PM - or in overcast. Most of the time I have a problem with exposures getting too long, rather than not long enough.
Steve Perry what would you say is too long for a waterfall?
Casey Bassett Depends on the flow. My goal is always to show nice smooth motion while still keeping good detail in the water. When the shutter speed drops too low, any detail gets destroyed. However, it's tough to say just when that happens - it's always specific to the waterfall. Most of the time I'm happy in the 1/2 second range, but sometimes that's too long, sometimes it's not long enough. I think most waterfalls start to lose detail when you get upwards of 4 seconds, but again, it really depends on the falls.
Steve Perry Great Points! Thanks for responding. I will keep that in mind next time i'm out shooting waterfalls.
+Steve Perry thanks Steve
Steve, how would you rate the 16-35 f/4.0 for the kind of pictures you've shown in this video? That lens accepts 77mm filters (and I've used it with Neutral Density and Polarizer filters). By the way - Thank you! Fantastic videos..
Hi -
Honestly, I tried 2 copies over the years and neither was anywhere close to my 14-24. I think others have had a lot better luck with it, but personally, I'm going to stick with the 14-24.
Dear Steve, Just nowI saw the video. It is a wonderful video. I have the same lens and I am using it with my D7100..As everybody knows it is a great lens. After seeing this video, I am planning to buy this Filter. The kit includes Polarizer filter, right?. In the video you have showed the vignetting while taking photos using this filter. Does it exist throughout the entire zoom range?. Does the vignetting is high or very low?. If i Use the lens in my D7100, will there be vignetting in the photo?..I want to know one more thing that does it affect the sharpness of the photo if i use it with D7100?.
Waiting for you Reply..
Thanks In advance..
Satheesh Thomas..
Thanks! Very useful
Hey man, this adapter looks amazing, especially because you are not restricted to 90° moves like with the rectangular polarizers on a 150mm kit. Does the Fotodiox Wonderpana kit offer ND and ND grad filters to put in there as well? Then I'd seriously consider it over the LEE kit!
I don't think they have grad NDs, but I know they have regular ND filters (I've not used them however). Another nice thing that people forget about - you can just put the included lens cap on the whole thing, so much easier to pack / unpack than the square system IMO.
I have the 16-35 and as far as I understand the reviews, the 16-35 is brilliant, but cant compete with the 14-24 when it comes to sharpness and distortion control.
I really enjoy this system, but I don't like there's no way on the 145mm adapter to combine Polarizing filter WITH ND filter? Do I need the square system as well to do this from them?
That vignetting goes away because of the distortion correction done when you check that box…not from a standard anti-vignetting feature. All superwides basically get narrower slightly when the distortion correction does its thing. Just something to be aware of.
This is correct, you can see the little amount of image you lose from using the lens correction. Sometimes you don't want to use lens correction because it physically makes the photo look different.
Nice review buddy!!! Thanks!!!!
The filter holder as been changed to a 2 ring system a lot better I love it on my 14-24 Lens
question how was the quality of ND filters optically... I am sticky about those things thanks... any color shift? or should i say how much color shift
thanks again Andrew
Hi Andrew -
Sorry, I've never used the ND filters with this, only the polarizer, so I can't really say.
Man... first off great review. I am looking to switch from my canon 5D Mark 4 to a Nikon d810 or maybe D820 if it comes out fast enough. The 5D Mark 4 is an amazing camera but I have received 2 brand new defective cameras. So I'm looking to switch. I was hoping this filter was a little easier to assemble. I am often using my polarizer along with an ND filter I screw on to my canon 16-35. Can you recommend any other amazing Nikon wide angle lenses that don't have that crazy front element? I heard this lens is incredible but I don't know if I could deal with this filter setup lol. Can you stack an nd along with the polarizer?
Sorry, the closest lens is the one you're using. If you want the quality of the 14-24, then you gotta go 14-24 and put up with the filter :) Oh, and I don't think stacking would work unless you were longer than 17~19mm. The polarizer is very close to vignetting, so adding another filter will cause it for sure.
Some people say the lens has scratched the lens or does not fit over time, do you still use this filter system, did you have any problems with it or did it any damage to your lens? thanks for your time Steve!
ProgamerEU I've heard this too. I don't think I've had any damage, my lens barrel seems to look OK after using the setup. However, I very seldom remove it and my lens wasn't overly perfect to begin with, so it's tough to say. I don't have any marks or abrasions I would definitely pin on the system though. I sometimes wonder if people having issues maybe had some debris under it they didn't know about before it was attached.
THANKS FOR THE TIPS
I agree. First time I'm seeing this guy also :)
Good job. Thank you.
How would they use a 10 stop and 3 stop and a grad rectangular filter? Does the 3 stop round filter screw onto the 10 stop round filter? To refocus, one would have to undo everything, focus and screw everything back on? Thanks.
Hi Steve, I have a nikon d7000 with a 18-105 3.5/5.0 lens, I'm wondering how to adjust the fine tune of my focus points. thanks
Hi Steve, do you use the thin version of the 145mm CPL or the regular one? thanks
I have the thin one
the "enable profile corrections" used for the vignetting problem cropped the image a little bit, so it's not a magic solution
Great video...... Thank you...
cool video i learnt a bit more on polarisers
nice review
All your components for the Wonderpana are black, but I see them with a red ring. What is the difference? Have you heard of the Kase system, which is wider (150mm and 170x170mm) and might not vignette?
red ring for the tamron 15-30
The newer system has the red ring. Haven't heard of the other system, sorry.
I have a tamron g2 15-30 I’m hoping this would work the same
Nice!
I just got my CPL today from B&H, it says it's made in China... I am really disappointed. Is urs the same? I think I will have to return it.
Just going to point out that almost every camera accessory you buy is from China... Your camera sensor is made in China...
Great stuff is made in China but they make 3 quality levels, German quality, Japanese quality, and American quality and the latter is what ends up being sold in big box stores like Wal-Mart and Harbor Freight. The German quality goods are better than what one can find being sold in the USA. Americans have a well-earned reputation of caring more about the price than the quality of goods (as evidenced by the great success of Wal-Mart and Harbor Freight).
I think Nikon has some stock shares in these filter companies. LOL Trying hard to choose between the 14-24 or the Nikon 16-35 Hmmmm! Both are on sale at B&H at this time.
Get the Nikon 14-24 lens. I have owned mine for about 5 years. That 14mm focal length at the wide end can be handy in some situations. I also have the Lucroit Filter adapter for it, and a 165mm x 200mm two (2) soft, soft edge filter for it as well. ( I haven't used the filter yet. Very simple and fast method of using the adapter BTW.)
Peter G Thank's Peter, it's been so long I almost thought you weren't around anymore. LOL Were not getting any younger ya know ;-) LOL How are your eyes with manual focusing, I'm 56 and they're not getting any better. Only reason I ask is because after I wrote to you about the 14-24 I read about the Zeiss 15mmm 2.8 but it's Manual focus :-( But takes filters :-) Just asking. LOL I do appreciate your answers.
hawg427 I haven't been doing any photography for quite a while now. Just purchased a Nikon 24~70 mm f2.8 to compliment the Nikon 14~24 lens , and my Nikon 70~200mm f2.8 ( 2007 version) . I suffered a major stroke 3 years ago, and its taken me that long to even think about photography. I'll get there. I was planning a trip to Cambodia, but, a friend of mine there advised me the weather has been lousy, so, I will wait for a while. All the best....
hawg427 Greetings :-) Just received your e-mail . Not getting any younger either. I turn 67 in May, 2015. Think I mentioned that I purchased the Lucroit adapter for my Nikon 14-24mm f2.8. The adapter is very easy to fit on the lens. You don't have to take the lens off the camera to fit the adapter. The Lucroit system consists of a ring which fits onto the lens ( from the front ). and it can stay there. Then, the Filter Holder clips onto the adapter ring. I have a 165mm x 200mm two(2) stop, soft edge graduated filter. Only problem is that you can't use the Nikon front lens cap with the setup. So, I purchased a couple OpTech Soft lens hoods. Leave the Lucroit adapter ring on the lens body, then fit the OpTech lens caps. Put one on the lens, then fit another over the first one. ( Double the protection ). Hope this is of interest.
Peter G Sorry to hear about your stroke, it sure doesn't show on any of your videos. I retired 4 yrs. ago from being a Paramedic/Firefighter in Fl. I told my Wife I'd rather have a good old fashioned heart attack than a stroke. Too many side effects on the stroke side. Keep taking those blood thinners Peter :-) Keep putting out those videos, I really enjoy them.
Although my question seem strange, there is a good reason to ask! I am interested if it is possible to mount two circular filters one above the other, for example two UV filters together or a CPL and UV above it?
Thank you in advance!
+Evelina Todorova The filters are all threaded, so you can mount two together (not sure why you would, but you can). However, at 14mm this setup with a single filter is just on the edge of vignetting, so if you add another filter you'll see vignetting for sure, probably until 16 or 17 mm.
Thank you for the fast and complete answer. The second one is just to protect the first while positioning the camera and searching for the good composition, because the conditions for shooting are like high humidity in the air, waves from the ocean and strong wind that brings dust from the desert.
+Evelina Todorova Ahh, got it - makes perfect sense.
Great video! :)
Hello Sir,
Does this kit comes with Polarize filter ? can u provide the exact link for the product ?
Also i m planning to buy a ND filter which one to buy ND16 or ND 32 for the same kit.
The current version of my polarizer kit is this:
www.fotodioxpro.com/wonderpana-145-essentials-kit-system-holder-lens-cap-and-cpl-filter.html
If you search their site for "wonderpana 145" you'll get a TON of options though and configurations though.
+Steve Perry
A year later and the current version now is:
www.fotodioxpro.com/fotodiox-pro-filter-adapter-kit-145mm-with-circular-polarizing-filter-cpl-kit-for-af-s-nikkor-14-24mm-f-2-8g-ed-nikon-lens-filter-adapter-lens-cap-cpl-filter.html
Will this fit the Tamron 15-30mm as well?
I think they do make one designed for that lens.
where's the link you promised in the video?
It was in the description, but it looks like it's gone - I replaced it, but just in case, here ya go:
www.backcountrygallery.com/photography_tips/fotodiox-wonderpana-145-review/
Steve Perry thanks Steve :) great job
Can i use this on my Sigma 8-16mm lens ?? Please reply..
Not this exact adapter, you'd have to check their website and see if they make a version for that lens.
Great Video, I watched the entire thing and i don't even own this lens!
does it work on a fisheye ?
Will this work on a Tokina 16-28mm F/2.8 ATX Pro
This adapter, no. However, they may make an adapter setup for that lens. You'd have to check on their site.
Issue 1: The WonderPana Split Grads has a major defect, showing colorful stress patterns or "stress induced birefringence" when used with the polarizer. Optical manufacturers are supposed to be on the lookout for this sort of thing. Terrible manufacturing and no warning from Fotodiox about this even though they know it's a problem (as I was the one who discovered the issue while I was testing it in their parking lot.) Here's a website that shows this kind of effect: www.flickr.com/photos/shortbread1015/2908842203/in/gallery-physicsclassroom-72157625101670351/.
Issue 2: Vignetting is not that easy to remove in post when you're not working with clear areas like leaves, branches, etc. The angle of view of the 14-24mm lens gets wider as you focus closer than 1 meter. I estimate that the lens gains a maximum of 0.5mm at focusing distances of about 2 feet, resulting in a 13.5 - 23.5mm lens. Unfortunately, the designers didn't account for this extra widening, hence the vignetting. I happen to focus at 2 feet almost all the time in my landscape photography, therefore I usually shoot at 15mm to avoid the problem when using the polarizer.
slow down a bit mate
Suport Nd + Cpl and no vigneting ???
Hello , is there any option to unscrew a circular polarization filter 145mm?, it got stuck and I can not pull it out.
I've had that happen too - try warming it up with a hair dryer. Works every time for me :)
@@backcountrygallery Hi Steve, thank you. I finally solved my problem. I noticed that the filter was incorrectly screwed so I put in on the fridge for 30 minutes and then pushed it down around the edge and suddenly it clicked so I can finally unscrew the filter. I guess I was lucky. Thanks
I have a tamron 15-30 g2 for my d850
What remote control do you use @7:12?
I'm pretty sure it's the Nikon ML-L3
Sorry, I missed this commnet - it's a WR T10
Please fellow photographer. In your experience does this filter damage or scratches your lens. i read this review and putting off to buy, i can only ask people who honestly have used it. Look: This was a nice idea, but beware, these units cause all kinds of problems including leading to lens damage. The unit has bare metal tension fasteners. After only a couple of uses, I noticed significant gouging on both the lens hood and the lens diaphragm (at 14mm, the diaphragm rides right up to the edge of the hood). The unit also creates metal dust every time I use it, leading me to have to clean it just to install it. Lastly, it comes loose all the time, which leaves me having to remove it from the body and tighten it back up. If you leave it connected to the body while you tighten it, then you'll risk damaging the aperture rod in your camera, and causing damage to both the lens and the body.
If you really need a CPL or ND filter, get a Nikon 16-35, and use your precious 14-24 for everything else. On the other hand, if you like having a cheap piece of metal damage a $2,000 lens, then by all means, buy this product.
I APPRECIATE YOU INSIGHT!
+Marcos Enrique II Ruiz Rivero (Aviel is Superguide) I have heard this before, but I have never had any issues. Mine stays on all the time and has not come loose or scratched the lens.
+Steve Perry hey Steve, i finally got my fododiox. you were right it doesn't scratch any thing. I have some other questions,. but before i want to thank you for your insights, I like your attitude there are a lot of photographer out there full of themselves. tell me which ND filter do you recommend if i want to create this milky shape on water. remember they are pretty expensive for this lens. which is better in your opinion, 5 or 3 stops? thanks in advance.
Is anyone making 145mm filters beside Fotodiox at a little more reasonable price and is there other 6x6 filters other than theirs.
I use a uv filter to protect my front element.thats it.
dimana saya mendapatkan Wonderpana 145 Adapter Kit For The Nikon 14-24mm Lens di indonesia atau saya bisa titip belikan dan mengirimnya, tk
sounds like you were braging about the 14-24 lens ?
Itz also very cheap.Only 350 euros.
Super Gereat """!!!!"""
all this for.. what? wtf. buy canon and 10-22 mm, normal lense for normal use.
Jeeze dude - take a breath!
Lmao so true
IMHO, save the hassle, buy a 16-35 instead.
And their MC thin polarizer is only $200. Yikes!
Thanks Steve
cool video i learnt a bit more on polarisers