I have used a piece of an old wire coathanger that is 1.66mm in width, I have used this for years and it works just fine, I printed a T-Handle for it and epoxyed it to the wire.
This was a good video and an excellent review of a tool I didn't know existed, but please don't tell me we're calling 4-minute videos long-form content now. If our attention span as a society has devolved to that point, I need to use one of these tools aimed directly at my cerebrum.
Very cool product. Seems reasonably priced as well. The only concern I have is that it's not so easy (for me anyway to remove the Bowden tube from the hot end. Access to the mechanism is tight and sometimes the tubing will not release. Once it is removed, you then have to make sure reassembly is done right, so you don't have any leaks (don't ask how I know this) and if you have to readjust or tighten the nozzle you then have to readjust, your zero offset. Maybe I need a direct drive extruder....
Extremely usefull hack, split your bowden in two parts, one that connects the extruder to the hotend coupler and one that goes from bellow the coupler to the nozzle, Chuck from fillament friday has a video on that, I've done this on my ender with bowden setup and it's amazing.
I used to have a length of brass rod that I used to use like this. It cost me next to nothing. I’d scrape the plastic off it with a craft knife. I don’t get clogs often enough these days to even bother looking for it in the garage.
I received a tool with my printer kit that seems made of some very springy stainless alloy. The filament doesn't stick to it at all, not even a tiny bit. Plus it takes longer to wick heat, which is a bonus too. I think if you can find a stainless rod which is just sufficiently under 2mm dia but thicker than 1.7, you have a winner.
I've always just used an allen key to push filament through. Don't see a need for a specialty tool when something you've already got on hand will work just fine.
3:29 I have a Pokenator, L shape handle with a similar precision needle buts shorter. I think your length might be better. And it has a hex shape key in the handle to unscrew the nozzle I assume, it doesn’t fit. Will definitely look into the NoClogg tool.
I love my noclogger and it has saved a bunch of time, except yesterday when I had a chunk of debris in the PTFE insert in one of my Prusas. Still worked great for the other clogs I have had.
seen this thing a few months back on a tech guys tiktok i follow i was so impressed i imported one to the UK :D glad to see its now reaching the bigger channels the maker deserves the attention :)
This seems like it will solve a lot of problems. While making a few ones a lot worse. Yes it will push material that has decided to be stuck in front of the melt zone into it and through it. But pushing abrasives and or stuck materials that somehow are clogging the nozzle with particles that are experiencing different problems than being not melted. into it might even make it worse. Cold pulling still seems like a better solution for it. As you pull out the issue instead of damaging your nozzle by forcing things through it that don't want to go.
An Amazon reviewer posted images illustrating poor build quality of the NoClogger, which persuaded me to make my own device using high-quality SMOOTH AND POLISHED music wire (spring steel) as well as a sturdy solid handle. Considering the flexibility of music wire, a suitably long piece of it could clear clogs in Bowden printers without the need to unclip the tube from the hotend. Some tubes unclip easily, but others (such as on my Anycubic Kobra Max) do not. A clever design could quickly switch from adapted to clearing clogs in direct-drive or Bowden printers. Tools should make life as easy as possible. When they do not, their designers should return to the drawing board.
I have a thing that's acdually in pottery making. It's some sort of design tool and is basically a long metal rod that's tapered on the tip and has a handle. It's the perfect diameter for this but if I didn't have this thing, it totally get that.
I received a 1.8mm springy rod with my printer kit and they also sell it as a replacement part "Filament ejector pin" or "Hot end push down tool", don't remember which. It only has a pressed nub on the end instead of a handle, and i think the nub might be 2.9mm wide :D so unfortunately it's easy to reach uncomfortable temperature, if you opeeate it quickly it's OK but not ideal. First i tried some heat shrink on the nub but wasn't happy with the result; then I found and printed myself a luxurious handle that i epoxied on the nub. Printed with fuzzy skin, which has an extra benefit of hiding the seam which i made random.
on the prusa do you have to turn off the auto feed and loosen the door so the gears dont grab the rod all i seen was you turning it on to hear up or i missed something
The CHT nozzle would be completely in the "hot zone". I think this tool, as she mentioned, is more useful for pushing filament that has managed to melt in the "cold zone" back down where it can melt again.
I would not use it on the CHT-- you could push filament from the cold zone into the nozzle, which might work, but then you would run into the nozzle and possibly damage it.
That would have been useful the other day. The end of the filament got stuck right above the heater block and couldn’t go down. Had to open it up and clip this little bitty tiny piece of filament. Might have to get one of those.
The other thing it can to is help push broken filament out of your bowden tube. Hex wrenches or needles aren't going to reach 8 inches on some printers.
Having literally just this second finished unclogging (or snipping off an inch from my bowden tube for the 9000th time) my CR6SE I have to get one of these. I just hope they are available in the UK
@3:40 "There is nothing like the feeling" as she pushes the ice pick shaped implement into the bane of her existence. I know I'm perverse but you gave me a laugh.
... So its a 1.5Dia steel rod with cone end and a large 3d printed handle? I mean I'm pretty sure it's not super recommended to shove metal down the the extruder, but even then, I'm able to find packs of 5 200mm 304 St St rods for half the price one NoClogger is being sold in £. Feels a bit expensive for so little, but whatever suits you.
how can we prevent clogs from happening during a print, so we dont lose the entire print.. should we pause the print at halfway point and stick the NO CLOGGER down the chute ?.. what do you recommend.. i cant lose more prints due to these clogs.
We noticed you have some bamboo lab printers have you tried it on that? I would like to purchase this but I need to know if it works there I don’t see why it wouldn’t.
Help! I must be doing something wrong. I've never had a clog with my MK3S or FlashforgeCP and I print a wide range of materials from all sorts of manufacturers.
I had one and returned it. The metal rod was rusty and not smooth. Also the handle was very poorly 3D printed. I did get it directly from the manufacturers website so I know it was authentic.
@raDius minewas fine when I received mine. Should have returned it then and asked for a new one. Most companies will work with you and send you a fixed/working item yo ensure the customer is happy
I don't see the benefit for Ender style printers, besides being hard to remove the PTFE if you have an all metal heatbreak you might scratch the inside polish and get filament to not flow correctly over time. I think getting a 10-50m roll of 1.6 or 1.8mm trimmer line nylon from the hardware store and doing cold pulls is a much better and easier solution.
omg this is a lot easier than me taking a part my printer and putting it against a 1.75mm twist drill to clear out melted plastic from the water cooled COLD SIDE.
Yeah this is a scam... I ordered from 2 weeks ago still haven't gotten my order communication I've had with the company seems sketchy... I was guaranteed to have my order 2 days ago still hasn't sent..
No clogger only clears a clog it wont prevent you getting another one 5 mins later. Need to sort out the reason you get a clog in the first place to stop it from happening again.
I guess I'm lucky -- the only clogs I've ever had I was able to resolve by bumping the temp higher than usual and then feeding filament through. I've mostly only had clogs when changing from higher temp filaments to lower temp ones and it didn't get cleaned out well enough at the higher temp.
$15? 30 cm spring steel in mass price is like 15 cent, self printed grip ~ 2 cent. Assembly less than a minute, so let's say 50 cent. All in all, not $1 in total for that part. That's what I call profit margin.
I just use a “marker flag.” The steel rod is the perfect size. Much cheaper. Print your own handle if you want.
The little flags you get at the hardware store for your lawn?
@@s0upcan2323 yes
Thanks!
I have used a piece of an old wire coathanger that is 1.66mm in width, I have used this for years and it works just fine, I printed a T-Handle for it and epoxyed it to the wire.
Happy to see you doing longer form content Courtney!
This was a good video and an excellent review of a tool I didn't know existed, but please don't tell me we're calling 4-minute videos long-form content now. If our attention span as a society has devolved to that point, I need to use one of these tools aimed directly at my cerebrum.
Very cool product. Seems reasonably priced as well. The only concern I have is that it's not so easy (for me anyway to remove the Bowden tube from the hot end. Access to the mechanism is tight and sometimes the tubing will not release. Once it is removed, you then have to make sure reassembly is done right, so you don't have any leaks (don't ask how I know this) and if you have to readjust or tighten the nozzle you then have to readjust, your zero offset. Maybe I need a direct drive extruder....
Extremely usefull hack, split your bowden in two parts, one that connects the extruder to the hotend coupler and one that goes from bellow the coupler to the nozzle, Chuck from fillament friday has a video on that, I've done this on my ender with bowden setup and it's amazing.
I used to have a length of brass rod that I used to use like this. It cost me next to nothing. I’d scrape the plastic off it with a craft knife.
I don’t get clogs often enough these days to even bother looking for it in the garage.
I received a tool with my printer kit that seems made of some very springy stainless alloy. The filament doesn't stick to it at all, not even a tiny bit. Plus it takes longer to wick heat, which is a bonus too. I think if you can find a stainless rod which is just sufficiently under 2mm dia but thicker than 1.7, you have a winner.
I've always just used an allen key to push filament through. Don't see a need for a specialty tool when something you've already got on hand will work just fine.
3:29 I have a Pokenator, L shape handle with a similar precision needle buts shorter. I think your length might be better. And it has a hex shape key in the handle to unscrew the nozzle I assume, it doesn’t fit. Will definitely look into the NoClogg tool.
They are so great. Makes it so easy to clean out any clogs between prints
I love my noclogger and it has saved a bunch of time, except yesterday when I had a chunk of debris in the PTFE insert in one of my Prusas. Still worked great for the other clogs I have had.
seen this thing a few months back on a tech guys tiktok i follow i was so impressed i imported one to the UK :D glad to see its now reaching the bigger channels the maker deserves the attention :)
This seems like it will solve a lot of problems. While making a few ones a lot worse. Yes it will push material that has decided to be stuck in front of the melt zone into it and through it. But pushing abrasives and or stuck materials that somehow are clogging the nozzle with particles that are experiencing different problems than being not melted. into it might even make it worse. Cold pulling still seems like a better solution for it. As you pull out the issue instead of damaging your nozzle by forcing things through it that don't want to go.
I just picked one up can't wait for it to come in just getting back in to 3d printing
I just received mine a couple of days ago. It works very well! 👍🏾
An Amazon reviewer posted images illustrating poor build quality of the NoClogger, which persuaded me to make my own device using high-quality SMOOTH AND POLISHED music wire (spring steel) as well as a sturdy solid handle.
Considering the flexibility of music wire, a suitably long piece of it could clear clogs in Bowden printers without the need to unclip the tube from the hotend. Some tubes unclip easily, but others (such as on my Anycubic Kobra Max) do not.
A clever design could quickly switch from adapted to clearing clogs in direct-drive or Bowden printers. Tools should make life as easy as possible. When they do not, their designers should return to the drawing board.
Just got my NoClogger. Its built solid!
I have a thing that's acdually in pottery making. It's some sort of design tool and is basically a long metal rod that's tapered on the tip and has a handle. It's the perfect diameter for this but if I didn't have this thing, it totally get that.
I received a 1.8mm springy rod with my printer kit and they also sell it as a replacement part "Filament ejector pin" or "Hot end push down tool", don't remember which. It only has a pressed nub on the end instead of a handle, and i think the nub might be 2.9mm wide :D so unfortunately it's easy to reach uncomfortable temperature, if you opeeate it quickly it's OK but not ideal. First i tried some heat shrink on the nub but wasn't happy with the result; then I found and printed myself a luxurious handle that i epoxied on the nub. Printed with fuzzy skin, which has an extra benefit of hiding the seam which i made random.
on the prusa do you have to turn off the auto feed and loosen the door so the gears dont grab the rod all i seen was you turning it on to hear up or i missed something
Did you get an answer to this inquiry? I have the same thought.
But what if its a CHT nozzle?
The CHT nozzle would be completely in the "hot zone". I think this tool, as she mentioned, is more useful for pushing filament that has managed to melt in the "cold zone" back down where it can melt again.
I would not use it on the CHT-- you could push filament from the cold zone into the nozzle, which might work, but then you would run into the nozzle and possibly damage it.
I have a few of those lying around the house, it's called a 1.5mm Allen wrench / hex key
That would have been useful the other day. The end of the filament got stuck right above the heater block and couldn’t go down. Had to open it up and clip this little bitty tiny piece of filament. Might have to get one of those.
Ordered immediately after watching video!
The other thing it can to is help push broken filament out of your bowden tube. Hex wrenches or needles aren't going to reach 8 inches on some printers.
I’ve had mine for a while great product!
I got one. Love your channel!
Running some high grit sandpaper over the rod can polish it so it glides super smooth!
Having literally just this second finished unclogging (or snipping off an inch from my bowden tube for the 9000th time) my CR6SE I have to get one of these. I just hope they are available in the UK
@3:40 "There is nothing like the feeling" as she pushes the ice pick shaped implement into the bane of her existence.
I know I'm perverse but you gave me a laugh.
I ordered these the other day. Looks great
... So its a 1.5Dia steel rod with cone end and a large 3d printed handle? I mean I'm pretty sure it's not super recommended to shove metal down the the extruder, but even then, I'm able to find packs of 5 200mm 304 St St rods for half the price one NoClogger is being sold in £.
Feels a bit expensive for so little, but whatever suits you.
You should also try and figure out WHY the clog happened. Yes, great tool!
By any chance do you know this will work on the bamboo Labs x1? Thanks
I have one different brand, but same idea. Printer is so clogged. I can’t even push it through while my nozzles at max heat. Any advice
how can we prevent clogs from happening during a print, so we dont lose the entire print.. should we pause the print at halfway point and stick the NO CLOGGER down the chute ?.. what do you recommend.. i cant lose more prints due to these clogs.
I've been using steel wire to do exactly the same thing for years.
what is the thikness of the wire do you use?
@edmar filho 1.2 and 1.6mm depending on the severity.
I’ve been thinking about getting some 1.6mm wire for this purpose - ‘printer floss’ 😅
Great video as always 😊
So the filament noclogger has a noclogger razor, but does the noclogger razor have a noclogger?
Im curious, does it also work with the Bambu? Do you need to remove the hotend to use it?
Does this work with the bambu lab x1 and p1p too?
I use mine all the time, works great,
I am not sure you want to use that tool on the Ender with b/tubes unless you want to unscrew the nozzle and reseal with the b/tube.
We noticed you have some bamboo lab printers have you tried it on that? I would like to purchase this but I need to know if it works there I don’t see why it wouldn’t.
Yes it does! They even have the Bambu listed on the front page of their website
how does it work on the bambu? i cant get mine to push the filament
Does this eliminate the need for cold pulls?
Pity it prob won’t work on the Bambu due to the filament cutter plug of filament at the top of the hotend
Where are they located? I'm trying to order from WI, USA and I'm getting an error saying they can't ship to my address.
I know its probably not the best use but I do the same thing with my Allen keys when I get a bad stick
I used a meat needle to unclog my Anycubic Kobra Neo nozzle. Worked pretty well and my wife does not miss the needle. 😏
Help! I must be doing something wrong. I've never had a clog with my MK3S or FlashforgeCP and I print a wide range of materials from all sorts of manufacturers.
I just use a Allen key some times I have to heat it up depending on the machine
That's a cool tool!
I had one and returned it. The metal rod was rusty and not smooth. Also the handle was very poorly 3D printed. I did get it directly from the manufacturers website so I know it was authentic.
Could have Just sanded the rod down and coat it with a thin layer of something so it doesn't rust
@@sofghost6663 yeah but that’s what the manufacturer should have done. Not the customer
@raDius minewas fine when I received mine. Should have returned it then and asked for a new one. Most companies will work with you and send you a fixed/working item yo ensure the customer is happy
@@sofghost6663 if you started with this, I wouldn’t have said anything against that
What's the exact diameter of the tip? Thanks!
I don't see the benefit for Ender style printers, besides being hard to remove the PTFE if you have an all metal heatbreak you might scratch the inside polish and get filament to not flow correctly over time. I think getting a 10-50m roll of 1.6 or 1.8mm trimmer line nylon from the hardware store and doing cold pulls is a much better and easier solution.
omg this is a lot easier than me taking a part my printer and putting it against a 1.75mm twist drill to clear out melted plastic from the water cooled COLD SIDE.
Will this work on the mk4?
Wish I had that when I was fighting the heat creep issue on my mk2
I could have used this yesterday... I spent 2 hours and bent 2 needles and burned up the PLA trying to do just this.
Yeah this is a scam... I ordered from 2 weeks ago still haven't gotten my order communication I've had with the company seems sketchy...
I was guaranteed to have my order 2 days ago still hasn't sent..
Where can i order one?
No clogger only clears a clog it wont prevent you getting another one 5 mins later. Need to sort out the reason you get a clog in the first place to stop it from happening again.
I guess I'm lucky -- the only clogs I've ever had I was able to resolve by bumping the temp higher than usual and then feeding filament through. I've mostly only had clogs when changing from higher temp filaments to lower temp ones and it didn't get cleaned out well enough at the higher temp.
wonder how this would do on the MK4 with the slightly curved filament path?
I had the same question. Not sure that this is safe to use with the Nextruder.
If you make a whole video on a thin, hardened steelrod, it´d be the least to measure its diameter with the digital calipers, and tell us...
Does it unclog nozzles?
my gf went n got me one n its the shit! I love that bad boy
Sounds like an awsome ass tool...
don"t ship to Canada Etsy has one but costs up 75 dollars to get one
Does it work with bambumab?
Yes it does! They even have the Bambu listed on the front page of their website
The only problem I could see is that it could damage the nozzle.
The Prusa nozzles are so cheap... you prob needed a new one anyway.
I just bought one ( :
The feeling of pushing down... 😳 😜😂
Nice
$15?
30 cm spring steel in mass price is like 15 cent, self printed grip ~ 2 cent. Assembly less than a minute, so let's say 50 cent. All in all, not $1 in total for that part. That's what I call profit margin.
Two words - Guitar String
anybody witha printer can just make the handle and glue a wire in it lol
Hi