Nice to see your cartridge is already aligned. However I searched how to adjust it, not to hear someone say “well if yours isn’t aligned, just adjust it”. But thanks
To set the VTA the the stylus has to be sitting on an lp on the platter. Only then should the arm be leved using a suitable device such as the one you used. The top of the tonearm is best for this method. Once this is achieved only then can the correct tracking downfore be applied. The hight of the mat and vinyl record must be taken into account when making VTA and tracking downforce adjustments otherwise you end up with incorrect geometry.
the protractor thickness usually is concieved to substitute the LP and not the mat, because we know about the LP thickness (which is more or less always the same) but not about the mat height, which can be sooooo different from one to another. Without mat you could find your protractor in a not flat position, exactly as it happens in this video. So: mat ALWAYS on
Complete, understandable, and detailed demonstration. Thumbs up for sure. Myself, I bought, and aligned - actually checked my phono cartridge with the mirrored version at 2:35+ from Hudson Hi-Fi. This manufacturer makes good, accurate tools for measurement, and alignment; and they are made in the USA.
Good basic info. May mention that if tonearm does not have ability to be raised or lowered you can purchase a spacer that will get you close enough. Rega sells .2 spacers which can be stacked if you need more.
Why do you need to remove the platter? Doesn't the protractor thickness represent the vinyl record thickness? If you remove the platter, the record thickness will not be considered IMO.
Didn’t cover how to use the Hudson tool to check the overhang, even though it was mentioned. I have the one sided protractor with various lines and numbers. Would it have hurt Hudson to put instructions in the packaging? Ok, there’s 40,000 videos on how to align a cartridge with the two points, but they could’ve at least mentioned what the rest of the printed information was.
Question when aligning your cartridge: Can you move the alignment tool so the stylus fits centre or does that not count? Like is it supposed to be entered by only rotating the platter with the alignment tool sitting still or if you move the tool on the platter so it hits centre is that cheating and not doing it properly?
I’m very impressed with the quality of my Hudson HiFi inner sleeves and jacket sleeves. I’m sure these two products are just as well made. Question: I know where to make the VTA adjustment, but when doing the VTA adjustment with your alignment tool, what is making the tone arm level? Is it floating? My Denon DP-57L has VTA adjustment, but at what point should the VTA be adjusted? Didn’t really get the answer from this video. My understanding, which was probably wrong, was that VTA should be adjusted based on whether or not you’re playing thicker albums. No? Thank you for clarification!
Yeah, this guy left out what VTA really is and glossed over it, never adjusting it or saying how it's done. He didn't understand how to use the alignment tool. Basically you want the base of the cartridge strictly parallel with the surface of the record. It's not the arm that has to be level, it's the base of the cartridge when playing an actual record. A lot of the instructions here were wrong, including the removal of the turntable mat, omission of VTA adjustment, and even what VTA means. Try other videos and take the average, this should not be your only reference or you'll be unhappy with the sound..
I have an Audio Technica LP120xUSB, and I don't think I can adjust the VTA only the anti-skate. What's the difference between the two? I may be wrong though.
Surely the VTA is measured in relation ship to the record not the top surface of the player body deck. Thus any super thick mat or thin mat or even platter could be used with a simple VTA adjustment only. If the cartridge is mounted correctly VTA adjustment would not require cartridge realignment. Similarly if a different than factory original arm was being used it must be setup in relationship to the platter plus mat plus LP disk not the deck surface. The rest position of the arm and therefor the cartridge and stylus is irrelevant as is its relationship to the top of the deck. Assuming that no changes have been made to the equipment, it would be unwise to think one adjustment would go out of calibration and others would not. So checking one adjustment is basically useless. The actual azimuth should be ok if the arm is not damaged and the headshell is original and not damaged. If its not correct then you have three options. Get a new arm, spend a lot of time with shims packing the cartridge angle or simply putting up with it. The latter being the most cost effective as it probably has little or no affect on reproduction over doing anything yourself which may well mess up something.
Where do you get the gauges? Also when I installed my cartridge I wasn’t sure where to put the tube connector covers. Meaning was it for the front 4 connectors or the back 4 connectors. Anyway, I put them on the front, but I see others have in the cover on the back and I don’t think it makes that big of a difference, but I’ll swap out. Luckily I have the screw off head shell and easier to make adjustments.
Also, I’ve seen newer turntables with the alignment indicator on the metal platter. I’m also glad to see TTS make a comeback and always thought they were beautiful machines. When I was a kid in the 70’s, I would go to a stereo store and see all the different turntable and it was like looking at jewelry. Each one looking better than the one you saw before. I have many vintage turntables about 10 in storage and I wish I had the space for more. My price one is this stand upright Mitsubishi liner TT that came out in the early 80’s with the glass see thru door. I actually bought 3 of them about 15 years ago bc that TT was so James Bond like when I was a kid and have gone up in value. Also came out a few years before the cd revolution and ppl. lost interest in vinyl and record players in the mid 80’s I was just telling a friend that there are tons of used vintage vinyl still out there bc in the past everyone one was a collector. But about half or more got thrown out or donated. So if ppl. had always valued vinyl and kept, I think there would be 50% or more out there .
New to this stuff. From what I was able to find around, it is not that simple. This alignments should be made up to your turntable/tonearm exact geometry, including the overhang. It is not universal, to my understanding. You may want to Google for "Custom arc template generator for phono cartridge alignment".
I'm confused by all these videos on using protractors. Are you seeing if CANTILEVER is aligned or just catridge? You have a horizontal line running through the middle, if I adjust the cartridge so the front of it squarely covers the horizontal line ( in essence, parallel to it but covering it) without and angling away from either side, isn't the cartridge aligned? Why do I need the vertical lines or a grid? Why don't I just need one horizontal line and at most two vertical lines, one on either side of catridge? What am I missing outside of a few brain cells? What is the purpose of all the other grid lines if we are looking at cartridge and not cantilever?
What's ultimately important is the cantilever is aligned. Most cartridges are built so that if the cartridge body is lined up with the grid, the cantilever will be aligned also. If you're using an odd shaped cartridge you should line up the cantilever instead of the cartridge body.
@@tuckertastictk when you put the cantileaver down on the surface, it changes it’s alignment from resting position. How do you know that is the correct?
Just received my Hudson Hi-Fi protractor. I'm still confused on how to determine proper overhang. The cartridge fits square between the lines on both points. It might be a smidge off on the inside point. Is that where front-to-back adjustments come in?
I have a doubt. In addition to allowing alignment adjustment, does this ruler also determine the perfect longitudinal distance of the needle in the arm? Thanks.
I think you are talking about the overhang. When you align using a two point protractor, and you successfully get both aligned correctly the overhang is also correct according to vinylengine folks.
Yes, but with a slight rounding/unit conversion error. The actual Baerwald null points for IEC groove specifications would be 66.00 and 120.89mm. But that doesn't really make a difference. It will work just fine.
The mirrored protractor sets the "overhang". as the pivot to spindle distance plus the amount the stylus literally "overhangs" beyond the spindle. The arm's "effective length" is the pivot to spindle distance plus the overhang. If your arm allows, you can actually move it so the tube rests on top of the spindle and the distance from there to the stylus tip is the "overhang", which is usually also specified in the arm's specs. It's usually around 16 or 17mm for a 9" tone arm.
Align to one null point, keeping the stylus on the point and adjust by twisting the cartridge body until the cantilever is parallel to the lines. Put stylus on other null point and check if the cantilever is now parallel. If it is then lucky you. If not, then you move the protractor, keeping the stylus on the centre line until the cantilever is parallel to it. Now check where the stylus sits , if behind the point then you move the cartridge body forward. If in front, move it back. Do not twist this time, you must keep the cartridge parallel. Now go back to the start and repeat until you have minimal error. This sets offset and overhang together. Easy enough explained, real question is it easily understood?:):)
In general when making adjustments to the cartridge alignment using the protractor adjust the cantilever to the straight line grid on the protractor and not the body of the cartridge.
I don't understand how you could make a video where you only show how your turntable DOESN'T need adjustment. You did nothing. I have some new vocabulary to use, but that's it.
Pretty sure "VTA" stands for vertical tracking ANGLE, not "alignment". Say "alignment", and your audiophile friends will laugh at you, like I just did. I also laughed when you said the thickness of the protractor compensated for the turntable mat and removed the mat. That was really amusing because the thickness of the protractor compensates for the thickness of the RECORD, not the mat, and is meant to be placed ON the mat so that the thickness of the mat and the typical record are both taken into account when adjusting VTA. Just so funny how much incorrect information is confidently posted as if it were factual on RUclips by self-appointed "experts".
On the protractor it says ''for zero tracking error''. This is impossible to achieve as zero tracking error is non-existent and only exists in the minds of those who publish misleading videos like this one.
Nice to see your cartridge is already aligned. However I searched how to adjust it, not to hear someone say “well if yours isn’t aligned, just adjust it”. But thanks
I watches dozen of videos and still i don't know how to make the alignment
To set the VTA the the stylus has to be sitting on an lp on the platter. Only then should the arm be leved using a suitable device such as the one you used. The top of the tonearm is best for this method. Once this is achieved only then can the correct tracking downfore be applied. The hight of the mat and vinyl record must be taken into account when making VTA and tracking downforce adjustments otherwise you end up with incorrect geometry.
the protractor thickness usually is concieved to substitute the LP and not the mat, because we know about the LP thickness (which is more or less always the same) but not about the mat height, which can be sooooo different from one to another.
Without mat you could find your protractor in a not flat position, exactly as it happens in this video.
So: mat ALWAYS on
He has 2 separate videos and he does it differently on each one. So stuff this.
He’s just trying to put food on the table, it’s ok.
Complete, understandable, and detailed demonstration. Thumbs up for sure. Myself, I bought, and aligned - actually checked my phono cartridge with the mirrored version at 2:35+ from Hudson Hi-Fi. This manufacturer makes good, accurate tools for measurement, and alignment; and they are made in the USA.
Good basic info. May mention that if tonearm does not have ability to be raised or lowered you can purchase a spacer that will get you close enough. Rega sells .2 spacers which can be stacked if you need more.
Why do you need to remove the platter? Doesn't the protractor thickness represent the vinyl record thickness? If you remove the platter, the record thickness will not be considered IMO.
He removed the mat which rests upon the platter.
Don’t remove the mat - it represents the thickness of the vinyl
@@Lfunk1983The alignment gauge on top of the platter mat approximately represents the thickness of the record.
And you should set VTA before overhang.
Didn’t cover how to use the Hudson tool to check the overhang, even though it was mentioned. I have the one sided protractor with various lines and numbers. Would it have hurt Hudson to put instructions in the packaging? Ok, there’s 40,000 videos on how to align a cartridge with the two points, but they could’ve at least mentioned what the rest of the printed information was.
Hi, thank you for noting this, new video coming soon!
Trying to get CD-4 Quadraphonic playback set up. Requires as-perfect-as-possible cartridge alignment (among other factors). This is very helpful!
Great video, very helpful!
Thanks Nice!! Question How do you use a bubble level on the head shell?. My screws stick out the top!
Question when aligning your cartridge: Can you move the alignment tool so the stylus fits centre or does that not count? Like is it supposed to be entered by only rotating the platter with the alignment tool sitting still or if you move the tool on the platter so it hits centre is that cheating and not doing it properly?
But if the azimuth is off How do you fix it??😊
It would have been helpful if you had actually demonstrated how to make these adjustments.
Hi Ole take a look at ruclips.net/video/rUQdjVSbbz8/видео.html
I’m very impressed with the quality of my Hudson HiFi inner sleeves and jacket sleeves. I’m sure these two products are just as well made. Question: I know where to make the VTA adjustment, but when doing the VTA adjustment with your alignment tool, what is making the tone arm level? Is it floating? My Denon DP-57L has VTA adjustment, but at what point should the VTA be adjusted? Didn’t really get the answer from this video. My understanding, which was probably wrong, was that VTA should be adjusted based on whether or not you’re playing thicker albums. No? Thank you for clarification!
Yeah, this guy left out what VTA really is and glossed over it, never adjusting it or saying how it's done. He didn't understand how to use the alignment tool. Basically you want the base of the cartridge strictly parallel with the surface of the record. It's not the arm that has to be level, it's the base of the cartridge when playing an actual record. A lot of the instructions here were wrong, including the removal of the turntable mat, omission of VTA adjustment, and even what VTA means. Try other videos and take the average, this should not be your only reference or you'll be unhappy with the sound..
I thought the point of a mirrored protractor was to adjust your viewing angle until the grid and its reflection line up to reduce parallax error
Your Hudson Hi-Fi Mirrored Protractor does that and more :)
I have an Audio Technica LP120xUSB, and I don't think I can adjust the VTA only the anti-skate. What's the difference between the two? I may be wrong though.
Surely the VTA is measured in relation ship to the record not the top surface of the player body deck. Thus any super thick mat or thin mat or even platter could be used with a simple VTA adjustment only. If the cartridge is mounted correctly VTA adjustment would not require cartridge realignment. Similarly if a different than factory original arm was being used it must be setup in relationship to the platter plus mat plus LP disk not the deck surface.
The rest position of the arm and therefor the cartridge and stylus is irrelevant as is its relationship to the top of the deck. Assuming that no changes have been made to the equipment, it would be unwise to think one adjustment would go out of calibration and others would not. So checking one adjustment is basically useless. The actual azimuth should be ok if the arm is not damaged and the headshell is original and not damaged. If its not correct then you have three options. Get a new arm, spend a lot of time with shims packing the cartridge angle or simply putting up with it. The latter being the most cost effective as it probably has little or no affect on reproduction over doing anything yourself which may well mess up something.
Is cartridge scale and pivot-to-spindle measuing tool really necessary?
Where do you get the gauges? Also when I installed my cartridge I wasn’t sure where to put the tube connector covers. Meaning was it for the front 4 connectors or the back 4 connectors. Anyway, I put them on the front, but I see others have in the cover on the back and I don’t think it makes that big of a difference, but I’ll swap out. Luckily I have the screw off head shell and easier to make adjustments.
Also, I’ve seen newer turntables with the alignment indicator on the metal platter. I’m also glad to see TTS make a comeback and always thought they were beautiful machines.
When I was a kid in the 70’s, I would go to a stereo store and see all the different turntable and it was like looking at jewelry. Each one looking better than the one you saw before.
I have many vintage turntables about 10 in storage and I wish I had the space for more. My price one is this stand upright Mitsubishi liner TT that came out in the early 80’s with the glass see thru door. I actually bought 3 of them about 15 years ago bc that TT was so James Bond like when I was a kid and have gone up in value. Also came out a few years before the cd revolution and ppl. lost interest in vinyl and record players in the mid 80’s
I was just telling a friend that there are tons of used vintage vinyl still out there bc in the past everyone one was a collector. But about half or more got thrown out or donated. So if ppl. had always valued vinyl and kept, I think there would be 50% or more out there .
Very good straight forward information on setting the tracking alignment for a cartridge
New to this stuff. From what I was able to find around, it is not that simple. This alignments should be made up to your turntable/tonearm exact geometry, including the overhang. It is not universal, to my understanding. You may want to Google for "Custom arc template generator for phono cartridge alignment".
I’ve never seen the protractor. New toy eerrr tool
I'm confused by all these videos on using protractors. Are you seeing if CANTILEVER is aligned or just catridge? You have a horizontal line running through the middle, if I adjust the cartridge so the front of it squarely covers the horizontal line ( in essence, parallel to it but covering it) without and angling away from either side, isn't the cartridge aligned? Why do I need the vertical lines or a grid? Why don't I just need one horizontal line and at most two vertical lines, one on either side of catridge? What am I missing outside of a few brain cells? What is the purpose of all the other grid lines if we are looking at cartridge and not cantilever?
What's ultimately important is the cantilever is aligned. Most cartridges are built so that if the cartridge body is lined up with the grid, the cantilever will be aligned also. If you're using an odd shaped cartridge you should line up the cantilever instead of the cartridge body.
@@tuckertastictk when you put the cantileaver down on the surface, it changes it’s alignment from resting position. How do you know that is the correct?
Does the hudson hi fi cartridge protractor work with any audio technical stylus? I have a ATN3600L stylus
Doesn’t the scale height affect the effective weight? I’d think the scale top should be the same height as the top of a record.
what do we do if we have a cartridge that’s not adjustable? maybe the tonearms are loose or need to be adjusted?
"If cartridge is aligned then its well aligned"
I like to use a mirror to confirm azimuth: the stylus and its mirror image should form a straight line.
What's the overhang measurement this protractor good for
Does it matter if the protractor is not flat? As yours is going at an angle due to the lip on your platter?
Really good advice, thank you for explaining and sharing!
Just received my Hudson Hi-Fi protractor. I'm still confused on how to determine proper overhang. The cartridge fits square between the lines on both points. It might be a smidge off on the inside point. Is that where front-to-back adjustments come in?
You adjust front to back to get the cart to line up to the grid on both points. If it's aligned at both points then the overhang is also correct.
I have a doubt. In addition to allowing alignment adjustment, does this ruler also determine the perfect longitudinal distance of the needle in the arm? Thanks.
I think you are talking about the overhang. When you align using a two point protractor, and you successfully get both aligned correctly the overhang is also correct according to vinylengine folks.
@@lobstame Ok. Thanks.
EXCELLENT LITTLE VIDEO!!!
Is this baerwald ?
Yes, but with a slight rounding/unit conversion error. The actual Baerwald null points for IEC groove specifications would be 66.00 and 120.89mm. But that doesn't really make a difference. It will work just fine.
That’s not how you align VTA I’m pretty sure you measure the level when on the record.
How do I adjust the cartridge overhung in this video?
The mirrored protractor sets the "overhang". as the pivot to spindle distance plus the amount the stylus literally "overhangs" beyond the spindle. The arm's "effective length" is the pivot to spindle distance plus the overhang. If your arm allows, you can actually move it so the tube rests on top of the spindle and the distance from there to the stylus tip is the "overhang", which is usually also specified in the arm's specs. It's usually around 16 or 17mm for a 9" tone arm.
Freakin cool
We're releasing amazing new products stay tuned!
Need to redo this video.
The protractor should take the place of the thickness of the LP not the mat.
step #1 - scotch tape the platter to the plinth!
He is dead wrong, you got to do it with the mat on the platter.
And a record!
Dont forget to Buy Ä real turn tabel :))
"Help you adjust the overhang if you want to" Duh. I have yet to find someone who can "easily" explain how to set overhang.
Align to one null point, keeping the stylus on the point and adjust by twisting the cartridge body until the cantilever is parallel to the lines.
Put stylus on other null point and check if the cantilever is now parallel. If it is then lucky you.
If not, then you move the protractor, keeping the stylus on the centre line until the cantilever is parallel to it.
Now check where the stylus sits , if behind the point then you move the cartridge body forward. If in front, move it back. Do not twist this time, you must keep the cartridge parallel.
Now go back to the start and repeat until you have minimal error.
This sets offset and overhang together.
Easy enough explained, real question is it easily understood?:):)
In general when making adjustments to the cartridge alignment using the protractor adjust the cantilever to the straight line grid on the protractor and not the body of the cartridge.
I don't understand how you could make a video where you only show how your turntable DOESN'T need adjustment. You did nothing. I have some new vocabulary to use, but that's it.
This explained nothing about how to actually align it, just the steps in the process, incorrectly I might add
Using a cartridge that was already aligned is not a very useful demo…would have been better to actually show how to align it
666 likes
This is a pain in the ass
Pretty sure "VTA" stands for vertical tracking ANGLE, not "alignment". Say "alignment", and your audiophile friends will laugh at you, like I just did. I also laughed when you said the thickness of the protractor compensated for the turntable mat and removed the mat. That was really amusing because the thickness of the protractor compensates for the thickness of the RECORD, not the mat, and is meant to be placed ON the mat so that the thickness of the mat and the typical record are both taken into account when adjusting VTA. Just so funny how much incorrect information is confidently posted as if it were factual on RUclips by self-appointed "experts".
On the protractor it says ''for zero tracking error''. This is impossible to achieve as zero tracking error is non-existent and only exists in the minds of those who publish misleading videos like this one.