This is great! I had mine done the same by Zip Corvette here in VA. I believe we also put in a 160 degree thermostat, so that radiator would keep me really cold all the time. I can't say for sure it was a DeWitts, but most likely it was. My power complaints were mostly of the variety "sometimes my car is fast, and some days it's not", so they explained the hot days were likely when I wasn't happy with it. The computer cuts out spark advance when it detects high coolant temps, as I am sure you know, Zent. You are really good with this work! I get my back all tight when leaning over stuff, and after the short-shifter, skip-shift eliminator, Column-lock bypass, etc.. I had to get help , and was actually offering to buy the big power adders, like a CAM or supercharger. Zip talked me back down off of all that risk, and I was in great position for the eventual resale of the car. I had spent a ton of money on LG Long Tube headers, which I loved, but they weren't cheap and I paid for an install . Zip also dyno-tuned the car for the headers which brought it right up under the listed 405hp to the wheels. So it was an adventure, but not the bang for the buck you are getting by doing all this yourself. You're a natural! Maybe you pick up HP Tuners, just to be able to turn off the skip-shift and the O2 error codes at the computer level, and then if you get eager, try changing some timing. I think I did more harm than good to my performance with it, but I had to get into the tune to stop the error codes from the headers, as that takes out your after-CAT sensors. You just end up stubbing those off. The real value on price is a blower, because you keep the same valve geometry in the heads, and the power is available in every gear in every situation. The tuning becomes the last mountain, because the extra air demands extra fuel, and just how much and when is never going to be as good as factory, so I am told .Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks Brian, that is a good idea! I would really like to learn how to tune the car in the future, but I have always paid someone to tune my cars in the past. I am not sure if I am going to mod the engine just yet, the car has more power than I need on the road course. It is already faster than my dedicated track car.. kind of unbelievable how fast this thing is.
I have the stock radiator still on my 2003 ZO6 with regular maintenance done to it and it shows the same behavioral as the dewitts! Really not convinced to purchase, unless it's tracked. Thanks for the review
The lt and ls motors are made to run hot up to 235 before fans kick on with no ac on got 01 Z06(ls6)runs cooler when moving air thru (faster is cooler) got a 97 Z28 (lt1) putting 3 row all aluminium with electric ss fan attached, long tube headers, 58 mm throttle body , hy per intake new waterpump, optispark, timing chain set to open it up let them breath all original equipment good but with 112k timing chain had slack one thing leads to another the Z06 a lot easier to work on than the Z28
I don't understand why people think a thin radiator is bad. Thin radiators transfer heat better than thick ones. The thick ones only hold more coolant, which transfers heat at a slower rate. The OEM rad is FAR MORE EFFICIENT than the one that you put in there.
wtf My c5 doesn't even hit 200, I think so far in the year I'ved owned my car it has only seen 200 degrees twice and thats just after doing a burnout and staging. And I live in miami wheres its pretty hot all the time!
Thank you for posting this. The mechanic I went to said it will take 3 hours labor to install if I buy my own radiator and hes says it will cost $350 for labor. I wont buy the Dewitts though way to expensive for my 2001 corvette that has 125k miles on it. In your video you said it was "easy". What is a reasonable time to be charged for to install a radiator? I am buying the part myself. If I do the whole thing with them, including the radiator, they want to charge me $550 with a Matrix radiator. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Sounds a little steep but not TOO bad. I'd expect to pay 150 to 250 labor at a vette specific shop. A shop makes a profit margin on the parts they sell as well so it doesn't hurt to try to negotiate.
I dont see the reason to spend that much on a radiator if the cooling characteristics are basically the same. Program the fans to kick on at a lower temperature would be the solution if you want to change anything. You will always have high temperatures with no airflow no matter what.
I bought a c5z and my temps run about 189 on highway and 210 in summer traffic. Do you think I have an upgraded one or stock. I live two hours away from your location. Thanks.
I'd guess you at least have a lower temp thermostat (possibly 180 degrees). To see what type of radiator you have, you can take a peak under the plastic cover and see if you have the stock plastic radiator end tanks (black) or if the whole thing is aluminum.
Put one in my C5 about 3 years ago and I'm very happy with it's performance and build quality.
This is great! I had mine done the same by Zip Corvette here in VA. I believe we also put in a 160 degree thermostat, so that radiator would keep me really cold all the time. I can't say for sure it was a DeWitts, but most likely it was. My power complaints were mostly of the variety "sometimes my car is fast, and some days it's not", so they explained the hot days were likely when I wasn't happy with it. The computer cuts out spark advance when it detects high coolant temps, as I am sure you know, Zent. You are really good with this work! I get my back all tight when leaning over stuff, and after the short-shifter, skip-shift eliminator, Column-lock bypass, etc.. I had to get help , and was actually offering to buy the big power adders, like a CAM or supercharger. Zip talked me back down off of all that risk, and I was in great position for the eventual resale of the car. I had spent a ton of money on LG Long Tube headers, which I loved, but they weren't cheap and I paid for an install . Zip also dyno-tuned the car for the headers which brought it right up under the listed 405hp to the wheels. So it was an adventure, but not the bang for the buck you are getting by doing all this yourself. You're a natural! Maybe you pick up HP Tuners, just to be able to turn off the skip-shift and the O2 error codes at the computer level, and then if you get eager, try changing some timing. I think I did more harm than good to my performance with it, but I had to get into the tune to stop the error codes from the headers, as that takes out your after-CAT sensors. You just end up stubbing those off. The real value on price is a blower, because you keep the same valve geometry in the heads, and the power is available in every gear in every situation. The tuning becomes the last mountain, because the extra air demands extra fuel, and just how much and when is never going to be as good as factory, so I am told .Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks Brian, that is a good idea! I would really like to learn how to tune the car in the future, but I have always paid someone to tune my cars in the past. I am not sure if I am going to mod the engine just yet, the car has more power than I need on the road course. It is already faster than my dedicated track car.. kind of unbelievable how fast this thing is.
I bought the shortened Dewitt’s radiator for my supercharged 2002 z06 to fit under the intake on the blower. No complaints
I have the stock radiator still on my 2003 ZO6 with regular maintenance done to it and it shows the same behavioral as the dewitts! Really not convinced to purchase, unless it's tracked. Thanks for the review
Great videos very helpful. I have a c5 and can’t wait to see more upgrades on the c5 z06
I put one in my C5 Track car with the oil cooler added, very happy, very cool.
Very informative and helpful video. Appreciate the info. ✌🏾💯
Yeap, aluminum radiator is my favorite item in cars too. I had it run for 2.5 hours in track on summer and the water temperature just stay before 90'C
Yes you do have choices the other alternative is going with Mishimoto Radiator all aluminum
Absolutely overpriced
I installed a spal brushless fan in my c6 , now temp stays below 195 at its hottest
The lt and ls motors are made to run hot up to 235 before fans kick on with no ac on got 01 Z06(ls6)runs cooler when moving air thru (faster is cooler) got a 97 Z28 (lt1) putting 3 row all aluminium with electric ss fan attached, long tube headers, 58 mm throttle body , hy per intake new waterpump, optispark, timing chain set to open it up let them breath all original equipment good but with 112k timing chain had slack one thing leads to another the Z06 a lot easier to work on than the Z28
Thank you for the video
217 is still pretty dang hot...
We gonna see more of the c5z06??
I don't understand why people think a thin radiator is bad. Thin radiators transfer heat better than thick ones. The thick ones only hold more coolant, which transfers heat at a slower rate. The OEM rad is FAR MORE EFFICIENT than the one that you put in there.
My tuner mentioned the same thing
yeah this video convinced me to replace mine with an oem one
+ZentRose which model was that? 1139101B, 1139097M, 1139097E, 1139097B? Can't wait to see how this works for coolant temps at the track.
The model is 1139097M. I'll post up a track test with the radiator soon. I need to throw a catch can on this car as well.
wtf My c5 doesn't even hit 200, I think so far in the year I'ved owned my car it has only seen 200 degrees twice and thats just after doing a burnout and staging. And I live in miami wheres its pretty hot all the time!
What thermostat you have ? The 160° or the stock 187° ? .... Greetings from Hialeah lol and yes temperature here is annoying hot and humid
How much heavier/ weight added over stock?
Thank you for posting this. The mechanic I went to said it will take 3 hours labor to install if I buy my own radiator and hes says it will cost $350 for labor. I wont buy the Dewitts though way to expensive for my 2001 corvette that has 125k miles on it. In your video you said it was "easy". What is a reasonable time to be charged for to install a radiator? I am buying the part myself. If I do the whole thing with them, including the radiator, they want to charge me $550 with a Matrix radiator. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Sounds a little steep but not TOO bad. I'd expect to pay 150 to 250 labor at a vette specific shop. A shop makes a profit margin on the parts they sell as well so it doesn't hurt to try to negotiate.
@@ZentRose Thanks for your reply! They are actually NOT a vette specific shop so it confirms the price is pretty steep
How’s the radiator doing? Everything still good?
I dont see the reason to spend that much on a radiator if the cooling characteristics are basically the same. Program the fans to kick on at a lower temperature would be the solution if you want to change anything. You will always have high temperatures with no airflow no matter what.
I bought a c5z and my temps run about 189 on highway and 210 in summer traffic. Do you think I have an upgraded one or stock. I live two hours away from your location. Thanks.
I'd guess you at least have a lower temp thermostat (possibly 180 degrees). To see what type of radiator you have, you can take a peak under the plastic cover and see if you have the stock plastic radiator end tanks (black) or if the whole thing is aluminum.
ZentRose Thanks I'll check it.
That is the standard temps when running.
stock radiators in cars are not very good, a radiator upgrade is good idea.
Did the extra cooling help reduce oil temps?
It seems to have lowered them a little. I need to see what it does on the track to get a better answer for you.
made in howel michigan
No different than my stock radiator on my 01 and I live in the desert where 106 is common
yeah im always at 192 cruising on the highway with my stock radiator