Just returned from a 750 mile round trip to Cumbria. Catch can has about 10mm of oily sludge in the bottom. New duct working nicely. Car ran perfectly. Couldn’t smell any fumes inside the car.
Thankyou for this video. I’ve learnt a fair few things from you, I always wondered what the pipes were for on the intake! I’m going to be doing this next week as have some smoke out the exhaust when accelerating. Fingers crossed! I don’t think I’ll renew the pipes for silicone but definately add a catch pot. Thanks again 👍
Great video and well presented in the end. Just found your channel this evening and its very good to see someone putting wrench time and developing the fl2. Looking forward to your snorkel development. Also it makes you wonder why they don't make a catch can as standard.
Putting the outlet from the oil catcher into the air filter housing could affect the air flow measurement and thus the fuel mixture,,,,,it would be better back somewhere as it was originally which would mean that you were clearing the oil but burning off the fumes which shouldn't really affect performance, great video, just my opinion,hope you don't mind
Good point! It could affect the airflow sensor. What I need for MoT day is an aluminium hose joiner with a small spur on it to allow me to easily connect the catch tank output to it. It can then be blanked off the rest of the year, or swapped back to the plain joiner.
Yes agree, I thought Scott did that at first but know seeing the vid i see he vented into the atmosphere using the filter, not ideal. I fitted mine with the catch tank catching the sludge then the vapour goes back into the original fitting on the pan pipes, that way you only get rid of the oil and burn the polluting vapour.
@@robineureka7897 I was wondering about the exact same thing. Why change the standard equipment if you can add the oil catch can then plug back int the manifold. Strangely I learned a whole lot more about other items that say the Haynes manuals lack, so definitely worth the look and must applaud and thank Beavis on the detailed easy to follow videos. 👍🏼
Great video. Keep them coming. You fan base is growing as we love them. Those stupid 4 pipes on the inlet. I looked it up. This is what Nodge69 says and he’s right. The 4 pipes are induction resonators. They can also be known as Helmholtz resonators. The primary task of induction resonators, is to reduce induction noise. In a NA engine, they can be turned to aid the induction cycle and boost torque. However on a turbo engine they don't reduce noise much and make no difference to the torque at all. Nearly all cars after the mid 80s had some kind of resonator in the induction system. More moderd engines are moving away from them. Mostly due to the little effect they have and the added cost of incorporating them.
Thanks for the info. The engine is definitely quieter and more powerful with the new setup. This is probably mostly down to the 100% clean air now going in, but I can’t help thinking that those resonant chambers made things worse not better. LR dropped them on later models.
Extremely long Extremely interesting Possibly the best video I have ever watched on RUclips Interesting to hear what actually goes through your mind as you problem solve I now know a great deal more about my Freelander 2 (2012) As soon as the weather improves will be looking under the bonnet Interesting to hear the differences of opinions about the technicality of diesels and what the designers have produced for everyday use Who has access to a 3D printer?
I could be wrong, but I'm sure I read in the workshop manual the oil / crank case breather feed into the air intake doubles as a lubrication for the air flow side of the turbo. Would be interesting to see how this system works in terms of longivity. Nice video though! Nice result too!
The turbo has a separate oil feed for lubrication. Also I would not expect much blowby oil from a newer engine so I can’t really see this being the case. I’ve done a few thousand miles now on this intake and it is running really well. Smooth and powerful, like driving a new car again.
Most older cars used to just dump the waste oil straight down onto the road... I mean 10ml over a 750 mile distance. I can't see why even fit a catch can?
Great video, sad to say that PLA just wont last long in the engine bay. Ive left parts out in the sun before and it deformed in no time. Worth using as a positve molding part then cast in aluminium?
I hope to try some aluminium casting one day but not possible at my current house. I use rigid polyurethane for my engine bay parts, cast from a 3D printed buck/positive. This can withstand the heat unlike PLA. I’m also trying ASA filament which is meant to as tough as ABS but without the adhesion/warping issues.
Hi love watching your vids But I'm struggling a bit Is it poss to update a list of parts that you used for air intake as you upgraded to 25mm catch can Also did you do the plastic pipe going to the turbo Cheers
Thanks Paul. I’ll add an updated parts list to my catch can upgrade video part 1 very soon, once part three is filmed showing the turbo down pipe. Not done that bit yet.
I have fitted a catch can with a top filter. The return pipe I have put down low in the engine bay with a sponge filter ,but is it normal to have the top filter venting a vapour and should I blank it off,,cheers
I blanked the top on my old catch can and recirculated to the intake. The reason for this is I heard that it can fail the MOT if excessive fumes are venting to atmosphere.
Thanks for the informative video. On our FL2 (2007) the two ends of the air duct have different diameters. The air filter box end is 70mm but the end of the duct that goes down to the turbo is 80mm. Did you have difficulty getting the 70mm ID silicon onto the duct that goes down to the turbo?. I can get 76/70 or 83/70 adapters. Would one of these make life easier? Thanks
Later models have an oval shaped elbow down to the turbo. You’ll need a short 70-80mm hose instead of 70-70mm. Your 2007 should be circular 70mm like my 2009 but maybe someone fitted the later duct to your car?
Yes, but I routed the catch can output back into the duct with a spur hose joiner for the mot. I do know of two other FL2 owners who have passed with it venting to atmosphere. It is at the testers discretion.
Hi could you just leave the original plastic pipe from the air box and block the other breather hole up and fit the catch tank like yours and then just refit as factory for the MOT.
The problem with adding silicone hoses to the inlet side is that under heavy load they suck them selves in and flatten thus reducing power so this looks like a complete waste of time unless you use wire reinforced hose
These hoses are 4ply and very thick/strong. I've not had any issues which would suggest they are flattening, but I will try driving with a GoPro filming under the bonnet to check for this just in case. The engine seems a lot more responsive and smoother so worth doing it just for that.
I have the same Freelander 2 2.2 TD4, I'd tried do the same installation using my compressor air separator as a catch can, when I tried to test it and start to run the engine, I noticed that there is an oil leaking coming from the exhaust side of a turbo charger, I just wonder why how was it happened like that engine oil leaking from the turbo charger.
I don’t have that oil leak, but it sounds like your crankcase is not venting and is pressurising, force oil out of the seals and reducing turbo oil drain. Try connecting your catch can output back to the intake duct, so that the intake vacuum sucks the fumes out of the crankcase via the PCV valve. Your PCV diaphragm may be faulty, meaning it is not opening and allowing gas to vent.
Personally, I wouldn't bother replacing all the intake tubes but extend and run the crank breather hose down to the catch tank and then back up and into the original union in the intake. That way you're taking out most of the oil but burning the remaining fumes. And passing the MOT.
Great Video, looking to do this conversion on my freelander, might be a silly question but any reason why you did not replace the next pipe down to the turbo intake?
Do you mean the elbow hose lower down out of sight which links the rigid black elbow duct to the turbo? If so, I’ve already replaced that with blue silicone a few years ago. I’ll upload a video on that soon.
I decided to leave that black elbow in as it is bolted to the cambelt cover and I didn’t want to disturb that. No reason why you couldn’t replace that part with silicone too if you want to.
Bit long winded making a bracket that could have been knocked up in a peice of flat plate in a few minutes, which is also heat, oil and everything else proof..
I am looking to do this with mine, but will probably try and get a hose with a breather in. That way the can can vent back into the the system, to negate any mot issues. But the can will remove any of that nasty black oil.
That is exactly how I have run mine since my mot last August. I use a 100mm joiner between the 60’ and 90’ elbows, so fitted a joiner with a 13mm input spur pipe. I will be upgrading to a new catch can very soon! I’ll do a video on it.
In theory if you just disconnected the blow by and blanked both ends, would this force the same air to exit via exhaust? Thus doing away with the entire catch can set up? Or have I overlooked something.
@@mrljdude9575 Yes, the factory setup recirculated the blow-by gases into the intake duct to reburn them. They are dirty inert fumes and go in after the air filter so not good for the engine lifespan or power. My set up vents to atmosphere via an oil catch can.
You can route it back into the inlet if you want to, using a joiner with a spur inlet. I put my breather underneath as I could smell fumes inside the car. Depends how smokey your engine is.
I’m not sure if it has one. There is a breather type of pipe above the housing in front of the gear selector levers, near where the radiator hoses connect to the thermostat housing. Could that be it?
@@BeavisPits I managed to get the rear diff pipes from the arch without taking it apart put em straight into boot along side my tow bar electrics and sealed the rubber ring so the hippo should b safe in water now can’t be dealing with these oil changes every time she get wet
Did you put any additional wire mesh inside the catch can? I've heard this can help catch more oil from the fumes.... Brilliant video by the way! How can I get hold of the stl for your bracket also? 👍👍
Hi Ian, the can I used has a mesh filter in the top on the inlet so no need to add more. Sorry, but I don’t give out the design files for items which I sell. Also, a 3D printed item wouldn’t take the heat either, it needs to be recreated in a stronger material, hence I cast a replica in poly. The brackets can be purchased on my website fl2lift.com
Hi bud. Nice video, love upgrades like this. I have ordered all the parts ready to do this mod. What lengths did you cut both bits of stainless tubing please?
@@BeavisPits Hi Bud. Thanks for the info. I've done my FL2 now. Made a little difference. Smoother pick up. Nice to know all that crap is not going into the air take now. The only thing I did different was that I put a quick release on the exit of the catcher and a quick release male on the 90 degree 70mm pipe so I can swap the outlet pipe back over quickly for the MOT. Thanks for the vid, big help.
Nice one Martin! Glad to hear it is running well. I am going to duct my catch can outlet back to a 13mm spur off a different 100mm aluminium joiner pipe for my MoT in August. When I do this, I’ll video some performance tests like 0-60, mpg, max speed to see how much worse it runs with the fumes, and also fumes+oil.
@@BeavisPits OK cool. That would be very interesting. I've also done the EGR and I fitted a TDI box. Running on setting number four. I get 36 mpg back and forwards to work and 39 mpg on a run at about 65mph. This is before your mod. I've yet to try it on a run after the mod. I am hoping to hit the 40mpg, fingers crossed.
@@BeavisPits @martin ello chaps, im looking to do this on my freelander pretty soon but i also would like to have the option of putting the nasty gasses back in for the mot, just wondering exactly what you used for the quick release on the 90 degree 70mm pipe or what joiner pipe you ended up using! thanks!!
The duct is just a better version of the factory item, which leaks oil at the joint. The oil catch can helps to remove some of the oil from the blowby gas.
Are you still using your oil catch can and have you had any problems since u started using it I want to do the same but I’ve been reading up and a lot of people say it’s a bad idea but a lot saying good
Yes, still using it and still collecting lots of oil…which would have otherwise gone through my intercooler and throttle body! All of those people who say that it is a bad idea are wrong. I am going to be upgrading mine to a better bigger Catch Can very soon.
@@BeavisPits just ordered a 300ml catch tank little bit different to yours as I have a drain pipe and tap on bottom so do t have to unscrew it I’ll set it up same as u have done and keep all the sludge and oil from Intake
Tried ABS, it is very difficult to print with, especially large items. They warp and bed adhesion is poor. I gave up with ABS and use PLA+ now. Still not able to take as much heat as poly though.
Hi I'm looking at replicating this, I have the catch can and can get the silicone hose. Could you please point me in the right direction for the metal section. Thanks
@@BeavisPits would be very interested in buying the bracket from you but, my oil cooler fron some reason is located where this would be fitted. I've watched you video a few times now and you dont seem to have the oil cooler in the same place.
Some may see it as unnecessary but many owners have copied my idea and are very pleased with the results. It even featured in Land Rover monthly magazine. The factory duct is an awful design.
Just returned from a 750 mile round trip to Cumbria. Catch can has about 10mm of oily sludge in the bottom. New duct working nicely. Car ran perfectly. Couldn’t smell any fumes inside the car.
Thankyou for this video. I’ve learnt a fair few things from you, I always wondered what the pipes were for on the intake!
I’m going to be doing this next week as have some smoke out the exhaust when accelerating. Fingers crossed!
I don’t think I’ll renew the pipes for silicone but definately add a catch pot.
Thanks again 👍
Please could you do an update video showing the mot approved set up.
Really interested how to get this past the tester.
Great video and well presented in the end. Just found your channel this evening and its very good to see someone putting wrench time and developing the fl2. Looking forward to your snorkel development. Also it makes you wonder why they don't make a catch can as standard.
Hey Scott, been seeing this project on our LR2 Facebook Group, Fantastic, again I wish I was close by to buy the plug and play of this.
Putting the outlet from the oil catcher into the air filter housing could affect the air flow measurement and thus the fuel mixture,,,,,it would be better back somewhere as it was originally which would mean that you were clearing the oil but burning off the fumes which shouldn't really affect performance, great video, just my opinion,hope you don't mind
Good point! It could affect the airflow sensor. What I need for MoT day is an aluminium hose joiner with a small spur on it to allow me to easily connect the catch tank output to it. It can then be blanked off the rest of the year, or swapped back to the plain joiner.
Yes agree, I thought Scott did that at first but know seeing the vid i see he vented into the atmosphere using the filter, not ideal. I fitted mine with the catch tank catching the sludge then the vapour goes back into the original fitting on the pan pipes, that way you only get rid of the oil and burn the polluting vapour.
@@robineureka7897 I was wondering about the exact same thing. Why change the standard equipment if you can add the oil catch can then plug back int the manifold. Strangely I learned a whole lot more about other items that say the Haynes manuals lack, so definitely worth the look and must applaud and thank Beavis on the detailed easy to follow videos. 👍🏼
Great video. Keep them coming. You fan base is growing as we love them. Those stupid 4 pipes on the inlet. I looked it up. This is what Nodge69 says and he’s right. The 4 pipes are induction resonators. They can also be known as Helmholtz resonators. The primary task of induction resonators, is to reduce induction noise. In a NA engine, they can be turned to aid the induction cycle and boost torque. However on a turbo engine they don't reduce noise much and make no difference to the torque at all. Nearly all cars after the mid 80s had some kind of resonator in the induction system. More moderd engines are moving away from them. Mostly due to the little effect they have and the added cost of incorporating them.
Thanks for the info. The engine is definitely quieter and more powerful with the new setup. This is probably mostly down to the 100% clean air now going in, but I can’t help thinking that those resonant chambers made things worse not better. LR dropped them on later models.
Extremely long
Extremely interesting
Possibly the best video I have ever watched on RUclips
Interesting to hear what actually goes through your mind as you problem solve
I now know a great deal more about my Freelander 2 (2012)
As soon as the weather improves will be looking under the bonnet
Interesting to hear the differences of opinions about the technicality of diesels and what the designers have produced for everyday use
Who has access to a 3D printer?
всё подробно и понятно! даже не знаю английский язык понятно.
everything is detailed and clear! I don’t even know English clearly.
nice and clean car, well-done mate!!!
I could be wrong, but I'm sure I read in the workshop manual the oil / crank case breather feed into the air intake doubles as a lubrication for the air flow side of the turbo. Would be interesting to see how this system works in terms of longivity.
Nice video though! Nice result too!
The turbo has a separate oil feed for lubrication. Also I would not expect much blowby oil from a newer engine so I can’t really see this being the case. I’ve done a few thousand miles now on this intake and it is running really well. Smooth and powerful, like driving a new car again.
Most older cars used to just dump the waste oil straight down onto the road... I mean 10ml over a 750 mile distance. I can't see why even fit a catch can?
Great video, sad to say that PLA just wont last long in the engine bay. Ive left parts out in the sun before and it deformed in no time. Worth using as a positve molding part then cast in aluminium?
I hope to try some aluminium casting one day but not possible at my current house. I use rigid polyurethane for my engine bay parts, cast from a 3D printed buck/positive. This can withstand the heat unlike PLA. I’m also trying ASA filament which is meant to as tough as ABS but without the adhesion/warping issues.
Hi love watching your vids
But I'm struggling a bit
Is it poss to update a list of parts that you used for air intake as you upgraded to 25mm catch can
Also did you do the plastic pipe going to the turbo
Cheers
Thanks Paul. I’ll add an updated parts list to my catch can upgrade video part 1 very soon, once part three is filmed showing the turbo down pipe. Not done that bit yet.
Great job thanks for sharing 👍😊
I have fitted a catch can with a top filter. The return pipe I have put down low in the engine bay with a sponge filter ,but is it normal to have the top filter venting a vapour and should I blank it off,,cheers
I blanked the top on my old catch can and recirculated to the intake. The reason for this is I heard that it can fail the MOT if excessive fumes are venting to atmosphere.
Thanks for the informative video. On our FL2 (2007) the two ends of the air duct have different diameters. The air filter box end is 70mm but the end of the duct that goes down to the turbo is 80mm. Did you have difficulty getting the 70mm ID silicon onto the duct that goes down to the turbo?. I can get 76/70 or 83/70 adapters. Would one of these make life easier?
Thanks
Later models have an oval shaped elbow down to the turbo. You’ll need a short 70-80mm hose instead of 70-70mm. Your 2007 should be circular 70mm like my 2009 but maybe someone fitted the later duct to your car?
Great video. Have you gone through an MoT since this conversion and were there any problems?
Yes, but I routed the catch can output back into the duct with a spur hose joiner for the mot. I do know of two other FL2 owners who have passed with it venting to atmosphere. It is at the testers discretion.
Thanks for the info 👍
@@BeavisPits they usually test your exhaust for emissions perhaps they aren’t picking it up because its in the engine bay
Hi could you just leave the original plastic pipe from the air box and block the other breather hole up and fit the catch tank like yours and then just refit as factory for the MOT.
Yes you could. I went for silicone as it looks better.
The problem with adding silicone hoses to the inlet side is that under heavy load they suck them selves in and flatten thus reducing power so this looks like a complete waste of time unless you use wire reinforced hose
These hoses are 4ply and very thick/strong. I've not had any issues which would suggest they are flattening, but I will try driving with a GoPro filming under the bonnet to check for this just in case. The engine seems a lot more responsive and smoother so worth doing it just for that.
I have the same Freelander 2 2.2 TD4, I'd tried do the same installation using my compressor air separator as a catch can, when I tried to test it and start to run the engine, I noticed that there is an oil leaking coming from the exhaust side of a turbo charger, I just wonder why how was it happened like that engine oil leaking from the turbo charger.
I don’t have that oil leak, but it sounds like your crankcase is not venting and is pressurising, force oil out of the seals and reducing turbo oil drain. Try connecting your catch can output back to the intake duct, so that the intake vacuum sucks the fumes out of the crankcase via the PCV valve. Your PCV diaphragm may be faulty, meaning it is not opening and allowing gas to vent.
Hi brilliant videos and very helpful how do you purchase an intake duct and catch can
I don’t sell the duct, but all parts available on ebay. See description for a full list.
@@BeavisPits ok thanx
Personally, I wouldn't bother replacing all the intake tubes but extend and run the crank breather hose down to the catch tank and then back up and into the original union in the intake. That way you're taking out most of the oil but burning the remaining fumes. And passing the MOT.
You could do it that way. I wanted to go for blue silicone because the factory duct joints were leaking oil...and because I’m a poser!
Great Video, looking to do this conversion on my freelander, might be a silly question but any reason why you did not replace the next pipe down to the turbo intake?
Do you mean the elbow hose lower down out of sight which links the rigid black elbow duct to the turbo? If so, I’ve already replaced that with blue silicone a few years ago. I’ll upload a video on that soon.
@@BeavisPits from the black pipe you have connected your new silicone hose to, down the rear lhs of the engine into the turbo
I decided to leave that black elbow in as it is bolted to the cambelt cover and I didn’t want to disturb that. No reason why you couldn’t replace that part with silicone too if you want to.
@@BeavisPits Great thanks.
Bit long winded making a bracket that could have been knocked up in a peice of flat plate in a few minutes, which is also heat, oil and everything else proof..
Yes, metal plate would be better but I have no workshop to machine such an item, maybe one day
Would the sd4 pipe not fit as an alternative if you wanted to get rid of those 4 branches?
The later duct without the pand pipes has an oval end to it, so would need the downpipe too. They can still leak oil at the joint.
I am looking to do this with mine, but will probably try and get a hose with a breather in. That way the can can vent back into the the system, to negate any mot issues.
But the can will remove any of that nasty black oil.
That is exactly how I have run mine since my mot last August. I use a 100mm joiner between the 60’ and 90’ elbows, so fitted a joiner with a 13mm input spur pipe. I will be upgrading to a new catch can very soon! I’ll do a video on it.
@@BeavisPits What size pipe have you used? I have just been pricing it up. I have just joined the FB group too.
70mm ID. All the parts are listed in the video description.
@@BeavisPits I may have skipped some of it. 1.45 is a loooong video
Check out the text description below the video
In theory if you just disconnected the blow by and blanked both ends, would this force the same air to exit via exhaust?
Thus doing away with the entire catch can set up?
Or have I overlooked something.
If pressure builds in the crankcase then it will force oil past the seals and may even blow the seals out completely
@@BeavisPits oh gotcha. So this setup is more to allow pressure to escape
Makes more sense to me now. Cheers
@@mrljdude9575 Yes, the factory setup recirculated the blow-by gases into the intake duct to reburn them. They are dirty inert fumes and go in after the air filter so not good for the engine lifespan or power. My set up vents to atmosphere via an oil catch can.
Great video, I would like to do the same on mine. Only a doubt on catch can output, is good put it behind the engine?
You can route it back into the inlet if you want to, using a joiner with a spur inlet. I put my breather underneath as I could smell fumes inside the car. Depends how smokey your engine is.
I’ve put a breather pipe on my transfer box but can find the gearbox breather where is it any idea
I’m not sure if it has one. There is a breather type of pipe above the housing in front of the gear selector levers, near where the radiator hoses connect to the thermostat housing. Could that be it?
@@BeavisPits I managed to get the rear diff pipes from the arch without taking it apart put em straight into boot along side my tow bar electrics and sealed the rubber ring so the hippo should b safe in water now can’t be dealing with these oil changes every time she get wet
Hello can you tell me please where did you buy your blue upgrades
Ebay, check out Auto Silicone Hoses
Did you put any additional wire mesh inside the catch can? I've heard this can help catch more oil from the fumes.... Brilliant video by the way! How can I get hold of the stl for your bracket also? 👍👍
Hi Ian, the can I used has a mesh filter in the top on the inlet so no need to add more.
Sorry, but I don’t give out the design files for items which I sell. Also, a 3D printed item wouldn’t take the heat either, it needs to be recreated in a stronger material, hence I cast a replica in poly. The brackets can be purchased on my website fl2lift.com
@@BeavisPits You can 3d print directly to nylon that will easily take that temperature
Not tried printing in nylon, will try it, thanks!
Hi bud. Nice video, love upgrades like this. I have ordered all the parts ready to do this mod. What lengths did you cut both bits of stainless tubing please?
The aluminium tubes are 100mm and 300mm long. 70mm diameter.
@@BeavisPits Hi Bud. Thanks for the info. I've done my FL2 now. Made a little difference. Smoother pick up. Nice to know all that crap is not going into the air take now. The only thing I did different was that I put a quick release on the exit of the catcher and a quick release male on the 90 degree 70mm pipe so I can swap the outlet pipe back over quickly for the MOT. Thanks for the vid, big help.
Nice one Martin! Glad to hear it is running well. I am going to duct my catch can outlet back to a 13mm spur off a different 100mm aluminium joiner pipe for my MoT in August. When I do this, I’ll video some performance tests like 0-60, mpg, max speed to see how much worse it runs with the fumes, and also fumes+oil.
@@BeavisPits OK cool. That would be very interesting. I've also done the EGR and I fitted a TDI box. Running on setting number four. I get 36 mpg back and forwards to work and 39 mpg on a run at about 65mph. This is before your mod. I've yet to try it on a run after the mod. I am hoping to hit the 40mpg, fingers crossed.
@@BeavisPits @martin ello chaps, im looking to do this on my freelander pretty soon but i also would like to have the option of putting the nasty gasses back in for the mot, just wondering exactly what you used for the quick release on the 90 degree 70mm pipe or what joiner pipe you ended up using! thanks!!
hello, great job! can you describe here the material and where buy? thanks
Which material exactly? Most of the parts are available on ebay. The silicone and polyurethane were bought from MB Fibreglass in Northern Ireland.
What is the use of it please i need to know
The duct is just a better version of the factory item, which leaks oil at the joint. The oil catch can helps to remove some of the oil from the blowby gas.
Are you still using your oil catch can and have you had any problems since u started using it I want to do the same but I’ve been reading up and a lot of people say it’s a bad idea but a lot saying good
Yes, still using it and still collecting lots of oil…which would have otherwise gone through my intercooler and throttle body! All of those people who say that it is a bad idea are wrong. I am going to be upgrading mine to a better bigger Catch Can very soon.
@@BeavisPits keep me posted as I’ll copy your design do I put the breather under like yours or put it back into air intake
@@BeavisPits just ordered a 300ml catch tank little bit different to yours as I have a drain pipe and tap on bottom so do t have to unscrew it I’ll set it up same as u have done and keep all the sludge and oil from Intake
i would have 3d printed it in ABS ?
Tried ABS, it is very difficult to print with, especially large items. They warp and bed adhesion is poor. I gave up with ABS and use PLA+ now. Still not able to take as much heat as poly though.
@@BeavisPits i have an enclosure on my prusa mk3 prints easy also petg carbon fibre is easy to print with
Brilliant ! Wow. Is this engine the 150hp turbo diesel right?
It’s the 2.2L TD4e diesel engine. Not sure how much bhp.
160bhp. The engines from 2011MY went down to 150bhp.
Hi I'm looking at replicating this, I have the catch can and can get the silicone hose. Could you please point me in the right direction for the metal section. Thanks
The metal pipe joiners? These are "alloy hose joiners" bought on ebay. Shout if you want to buy a catch tank bracket.
@@BeavisPits would be very interested in buying the bracket from you but, my oil cooler fron some reason is located where this would be fitted. I've watched you video a few times now and you dont seem to have the oil cooler in the same place.
If it makes a difference I have a 57 td4.
請問進氣套件 在哪個軮站買的到 謝謝
All parts were bought on eBay, full list in the video description. I did sell this as a kit but not any more.
Are you looking at selling the kits?
Hi, I have sold a few recently through my website fl2lift.com but they have now all sold. I’m not planning to sell any more for a while.
Unnecessary mod, fix the oil problem, I did.... but enjoy your mod
Some may see it as unnecessary but many owners have copied my idea and are very pleased with the results. It even featured in Land Rover monthly magazine. The factory duct is an awful design.
@@BeavisPits I did not say your mod was not good, but engineers fix the problem.