Don't use strong lasers without this - easy to make!
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- Опубликовано: 30 дек 2020
- If you use high-powered lasers it is not necessarily enough to use safety goggles. Especially Class IV lasers need some extra attention: a beam dump to stop the beam and the reflections from the laser dot.
In this video I show you how to make one and I test it using lasers up to 1500 mW. An easy and inexpensive build that will be a major safety upgrade for your laser collection.
My Patreon-page: / brainiac75
Testing my strongest lasers: • Strongest LASERs in my...
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#BeamDump #DIY #Brainiac75 
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Hi all! Happy New Year - will read comments later. The beam dump turned out well, but let's make it even better. Does anyone have a good, easy solution for a metal end cap in stead of plastic?
I can't weld aluminium - or any metal for that matter...
And how do I fix the iris diaphragm to the front of the beam dump in a lighttight way without obstructing its function?
Any input is appreciated!
Happy New Year Ingenious Sir!
I am faster than you
for your purposes (since its not going to have heavy use, need to be load bearing, etc), I hink super glue or something similar will work. There are metal glues that ive seen that should also handle high heat. you could also try proper sealant, resin, etc. You can make a metal cap and just glue it down using one of those things! I think that should work for your purposes!
The idea of an aperture sounds smart, I can't wait to see it!
Hi! Happy new year!! :)
These lasers are so strong that I feel like I need safety glasses to watch it.
Even though I know it's safe, it is disconcerting to watch the camera get flashed by a laser lol
ahahagagagagahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahagalolmao
The crazy part is that the dot in real life is thousands of times stronger than a normal screen can show :) Thanks for watching!
I used my older camera for filming this ;) And zoomed in from far away to lower the light energy entering the camera. Luckily it handled it just fine without burned pixels!
Don't worry your are behind a screen, unless your are the camera man
"I will go for round ones. Don't want it to look like something crafted in Minecraft." ~Brainiac 2020
Yes
Not sure why he did that :/
I was about to type the same😀😀😂
_Minecraft is liiiiife_ . But not for Brainiac75
(shrugs)
So funny
Thief: *breaks into brainiac’s house*
Brainiac: “Be careful when using high powered lasers and sharp objects”
HAHA this one did it!
He would probably not know anything and hurt himself XD
Brainiac is a kid compared to styropyro
@@carnage8381 *blinds thief* “haha alright im already bored!”
Nach dem Training will Jörg etwas vernünftiges essen
"6 inches is handy and adequate"
That's what she said.
The only thing I am proud of
1 meter would be optimum, though, but also too cumbersome to handle, so yeah. Overall I agree.
Oh yea sound adequate na max size
I am worthy
"Be sure not to look directly at laser beam with remaining eye".
Remaining
"diffuser".... hmm it sure looks like something else LOL
Yeah I too thought it looked like a pyramid...
ouch
I'm glad to realize that I'm not alone
@@The___Lamb there are no direct references to what we are talking about, so it doesn't matter - whoever gets it gets it, and if a child understands, we know it's not because of us, but more unfortunate circumstances
Pointy egg on a stick
I just bought a 3 watt green laser, and for some reason it seems more dangerous than a gun.
Legit 3w or china spec "3w"?
@@ZeroMass. Legit coherent lab laser module.
A gun only hurts what you point it at. A 3w laser can bounce off something and blind an unintended target instantly
@@aarongreenfield9038 I'm assuming 532 and not 520nm... Nice 🤤
I build array handhelds at 10W+... Simply looking at the dot can cause damage, class 4 are no joke. Been building all sorts since 2007 and store them like a firearm, including the smaller 3b's 💥
@@ZeroMass. Yea, I won't mess around with it unless have the reds on. I also have a one watt argon: (It's hard to explain how inefficient that one is lol) and a 1064nm yag that doesn't mess around. I have many more in between, but these are the standout ones worth mentioning.
I'm interested in seeing your beam trap operating with a thermal probe attached, so we can get an idea of how much energy it's converting to heat.
All of it. Thus, a 3 watt laser will experience 3 watts of heating. That's not much unless highly concentrated on a tiny spot. But spread out by the plumb bob, it will be just 3 watts of heating; barely detectable.
Ah, a fresh video from my favorite laser expert! also a "beam dump" sounds pretty funny yet cool
hey subscribe for no reason!:)
Yeah, I think many would call this a beam stop to avoid the giggles associated with the word 'dump' x) Thanks for watching!
@@brainiac75 oh wow I got a response! Honestly, I think I like this better. It allows you to have a little fun while being serious :)
Thanks for the videos!!
I love it how you're stressing safety in every Video, but also doing it in an educating and interesting way!
Have a great 2021!
The main cone is the only thing that really needs to be heat resistant, I wonder if using black 3.0(with a black 2.0 primer coat) on the inside would help absorb more of the light.
Not necessarily, if the laser doesn't hit the tip it will spread out somewhat but it will still focus on a smallish area, however that area is only at the back and you would be able to use black 3.0 forward of the furthest forward a reflection from the cone will reach the wall to catch tertiary reflections
Drilling tip: You should have a separate drill bit set for plastics. Just take the cheapest set (or an old one) and dull the bits with a file. They will not catch the plastic and spin it around any more nearly as easily.
Wood bits and forstner bits work really good for plastic too
And there was a mistake wih the gold color. Normal HSS and HSSE (the one with Cobalt in it) don't apeare visualy different. The color is caused by a Titanium aluminium nitrite (TiAlNi) coating whitch makes it more durable.
Instead of using black paint you can coat the inner surface with soot/carbon from burning candle or kerosene etc. The amorphous surface is similar, but not as good as vantablack which will significantly reduce the reflections and make the beam dump even better.
PS: Happy new year!
3:10
Drilling plastic with cobalt bit,
Eating soup with tungsten spoon,
Hunting squirrels with a Schwerer Gustav...
No matter how it comes, overkill is always fun !
Bringing up an AK47 to a knife fight.
Squirrel Hunting with the Schwerer Gustav must be a fun experience!
Dont try this at home
But try this at school
Americans and guns be like
Lol I’m gonna burn down the school
Thank you for sharing your solutions. This helps hit home the importance of having safety measures in place.
It's not only cost effective to build your own things/equipment but you have the satisfaction of knowing *you* made it. :3
Yep, that feeling is priceless. And if it breaks you know exactly how to repair/replace it at low cost :)
Making a neat project out of a safety device makes me even likelier to stress safe use. A good last day of 2020.
I have done A LOT of spray painting in my life, and one thing that makes the biggest difference in the end result is the cap.
You can buy different caps with different spray patterns from graffiti and art supply stores. Some spray larger spots, some spray tiny spots, some spray straight lines (calligraphy cap). You can buy adapters to use them on male spray cans (the cap goes on a stem) to adapt it to the standard caps (the stem is part of the cap). Bombing Science is a good site if you're in Canada, or Art Primo in the US.
Small, detailed jobs like spraying the inside of that pipe, would be a LOT easier if you used a fine cap.
7:07 Oh yeah... that's the shot right there... unf
It's quite satisfying to watch the beam disappear into that little box
Great video, I loved watching the build and test. I had no clue such a thing existed, it really does seem like a smart idea. Happy new year!
I reckon some baffles on the inside would improve this even more.
I thought the feet were baffles before he applied them!
Yep, I have seen professional models with an extra, hollow cone on the inside in front of the diffuser. Would trap even more light. I may need to experiment further, though it really isn't needed for my laser's power level. For now...
@@brainiac75 I mean, I don't think you'll need to deal with daW or stronger Lasers... Am I weird for using Dekawatts Or Hektowatts? Does anyone younger than me even know those SI units... have they even heard of Dekagrams and Hektograms before? Have they heard of decigram then?
yeah, like a hectogram is 100 grams
For not being a craftsman, you did a great job! Always good to use a guide when cutting metal. Don't be afraid to cut plastic with low pressure and slow speed!
After that plumb bob and bolt atached to the end were painted black i had a very different idea of what it looked like haha.
A new years treat! Great, and very interesting video thanks Brainiac, happy new year!
I really love your amazing music selection!
Keep up the work!
That's pretty ingenious. Very nice.
This was ridiculously informative. Thanks a bunch!
A revisit to the lanthanide series would be great. The elements along with their chemistry is fascinating!
I've had to align laser beams many many times. One time, I made the mistake of using my hand as a beam dump for a 200mW 532nm laser. It burnt a small blister into my hand.
We had a lab where there were burn marks on the wall from someone using a 2W IR laser without a beam dump.
A piece of black anodized aluminum makes a good beam dump.
The razor blade test is normal for seeing laser power.
Hello. I am a moderator on laserpointerforums. I thank you for giving member Clansley a shoutout for his information.
So basically what I'm getting from this is that you can make your own with a buttplug and the cardboard insert from some toilet roll.
Yes.
*n o*
wooo that black paint looks really really nice.
You could even add a series of square aluminum plates with apatures to the inside to reduces the lights ability to bounce all the way back to the front. Maybe cut them like a + sign and bend the tabs at a 90°angle, then use high temperature adhesive to hold them in place.
Fascinating video, new subscriber because of it!! Keep up the good work!!
Well, that is effective. I need to build on of those.
Ich mag sehr, wie du am Anfang gewisse Vorsichtsmaßnahmen erwähnst. Ein sehr tolles Intro, was du dir da ausgedacht hast :)
I like that vice you used for holding that aluminium for cutting it.
6:46 The paint finish looks very good!
It is amazing that EM waves, RF or light can be terminated by similar devises.
I had a few microwave terminations that had a conical graphite center inside a waveguide, just like your beam dump, altho, I would call it a termination as well.
Brilliant work from the brilliant brainiac
Very informative video. Keep on with the great content.
Nice one, very informative.
Brilliant video !
"Don't want it to look like something crafted in Minecraft"
Me crafting this item in Minecraft: *Slowly puts down materials*
Happy New Year 🎉🥂🍾 Great vid as always 👍
Hello from the UK from a fellow science fan & laser builder. Great project Brainiac75, i built you project to your method & specification & made 2 small modifications,
i extracted the variable aperture assembly from an old film camera & mounted it to the front of the beam trap using a piece of 5mm black ABS plastic with a circle cut out of it to fit the aperture mechanism into snugly,i then used some fast cure resin to fix permanently in place,
i found some small adjustable height rubber bottom feet on screws with plates on the top that had self adhesive pads on ebay that gave me a professional quality beam trap i could use at any distance & beam divergence combination that was an adjustable height.
Keep up the great videos.
Great tips. The variable iris is already on its way (as mentioned at the end of the video). The variable height feet are a nice touch. Thanks for watching!
Happy New Year to you too!!!
Well done 👍
happy new year brainiac75
holy 0 likes but brainiac liked it :O
I learned about laser safety and beam dumps from you. Then I saw backyard scientist working with that absurdly powerful IR laser without much safety at all. I was so nervous watching that. 😂
You should start a spray pass from off target while constantly moving the can sideways until it’s again completely away, so to let large blobs goes to backstop. Not always happen but sucks when it does
Good going! It's crazy how much spillage even the nice lasers have!
Thanks! I was surprised too. The spillage usually 'drowns' near the laser dot. But it is after all not overexposing the camera, so probably not much energy in it. Though I have noted higher power readings when the laser is nearer the laser power meter. Probably because the spillage is picked up too. Thanks for watching!
@@brainiac75 Ah, super cool! I'm sure that spillage adds up! I wonder if you built some funky funnel mirror to better capture that spillage if you would capture 5.. maybe even 15% extra power measured??
..It's so hard to guesstimate living with logarithmic eyeballs and then fudging for sort-of linear cameras!
Hi Brainiac75, Good Video, Keep It up!
mans was so happy to talk about his drill bits, there pretty neat not going to lie
A great contraption; I would have also sprayed the entirety of the front plastic with the aperture just so it was matte black too, probably absorb alit more light inside and out
Happy new year brother
3:29 Beautifully expressed. I know the feeling : )
XTC is a high temperature/heat resistant coating formulated specifically to protect metal surfaces operating at temperatures from 500°F (260°C) to 1500°F (812°C).
With proper preparation, XTC provides outstanding adhesion, film integrity, weathering, and thermal shock-resistance throughout this entire temperature range, and is guaranteed not to burn off!
Very nice. Been wondering what would be an easy way to do this... Eventually black tape and paint on flat surfaces indeed just isn't enough. Simple and effective. Much thanks.
Endnu engang en fantastisk video !!
I was waiting for this video
Have a great 2021! I'll love to see more og your videos! Subscribed to you since 500 Subs.
Wow, that's a long time ago. A decade or so ;) Thanks for the long time support - much more to come!
I've got psychosomatic spots on my vision from looking at all those lasers now
First video I watch in the new year. Happy new year to everybody in the comments!
5:01 for de-burring an Aluminium hole, try using a dremel/drill with one of those (carbide?) grinding cones...
They are usually a pink or blue-ish color I think?
Love your videos so creative and amazing big fan ❤
now I know how a beam stop works. thank you
I love how you mentioned Minecraft in this video, also nice laser!
very nice!
Happy Newyear
*struggles the whole video building the laser trap*
10:35 "...and it was an easy build!"
haha LOVE your content!
I love watching your videos 😍
Happy new year ❤️
A simple Raman Horn design is much simpler and works in all but the most extreme cases. Just bend some anodized conduit with crimp at the end or sheet metal that has been folded in half. The beam is diffused and attenuated at each bounce and the horn shape ensures that it propogates into the horn.
Clever. Another approach is a stack of double-edged razor blades with the sharp edges facing the laser.
One improvement could be to use the black 2.0 brand paint (similar to vantiblack) but andvery light absorbent and will withstand the heat I’ve seen it done in something similar before.
Pretty cool video :) I saw a different video about the blackest black paint, I think it was called Munro. I bet you could figure out some sort of cool experiment combining lasers and that paint.
Godt nytår
i love how in some videos he turns the safety signs
I bought a "200" mw laser off ebay, but the PSU alone was a mains powered one and it even had TEC cooling, looking at your channel and just how powerful it was I suspect it was more likely to have been a 1000 mw laser which explained why it absolutely destroyed the blast plastic I had bought it to engrave
styropyro be like :
👁️👄👁️
Safety? What's Safety?
Nice safety device, now send it to styropyro for more... extreme testing! Jokes aside, if you make another video on beam dumps, I'd like to see a comparison to the brick painted with the same black paint.
exactly what I thought
Would internal baffles similar to a gun suppressor, in addition to the current design, help trap the beam better prevent the glow from coming out after reflecting off of the cone?
Nice vid
Instead of a simple aperture, how about a tube from the aperture to just before the tip of the plumb bob? Maybe some baffles could be added to better trap the scattered light.
Could you please explain you idea please. I didn't get it.
@@tejasdixit4417 Instead of having a lot of space between the entry hole and the tip of the diffusor cone, you could put a pipe on the inside from the entry hole to the tip of the diffusor. That way no scattered light can come out of the entry hole.
The trapping of the diffused light would definitely be improved. A tube all the way to the plumb bob would be very effective but also requires a very level and precisely aligned laser beam. A few centimeters of black pipe extending on the inside of the aperture would work well and still be practical. Thanks for the tip and watching!
Rustoleum's high temp black is also good paint, applies very thinly, comes out matt, and is very hard wearing
Looks like aperture science!
If you need a quick and dirty way of achieving a similar result you can get a stack of utility blades and glue them together. Then simply pass them over a candle to accumulate soot and viola! works extremely well.
10:25
Honestly I was hoping the laser would be powerful enough to cut the brick XD haha
i was thinking the same thing. hehehehe...
This isn't styropyro...
You need to go up like 2 orders of magnitude for that and even then it is a very slow process. Lasers aren't really a good tool for cutting stone or ceramic.
do you have any prferences of a laser meter that can handle 100 watt or so co2 laser? decent with out breaking the bank.?
Happy new year. Try using an adjustable aperture.
Thanks for sharing this. Please tell me what safety glasses do you use? Some of them are fake and not as efficient and I am worried to affect my eyes.
For what it’s worth- I’m a grad student in an optics lab and we use small beam blocks that are essentially stacked razor blades as our beam blocks. They work quite well on our class 4 lasers and are pretty cheap, around $50 usd. Thorlabs part LB1 if anyone is interested.
I like how've you've addressed your patreon
do you know if one-way mirrors would help? idk how they work but It's worth a try
Happy new year Brainiac viewers🎆
Since the innards are basically enclosed and won't ever be touched. Once you figure out an all metal design Instead of painting the innards with black paint, try exposing them to a poorly burning kerosene flame. The flame will deposit a VERY black layer of soot that will be perfectly matt. It probably isn't as black as vanta black (though since it is basically the same material it is probably close) but it is blacker than any paint can be, it's super cheap and should be fairly heat resistant. Also, thought this would be hard to do with stock parts, having the aperture be a steep cone leading into the hole in the center will reduce the risk of the beam reflecting back at you (as opposed to the aperture being a flat wall with a hole in the center) as you are lining up your beam with the hole.
Try to paint the inside and out side with muso black. With muso black absorbs aprox 90-99% of light, the beam dump will be super effective and with the addon of a cone in place of the eyeris no light will bounce. You can also and some texture on the inside to trap some more light