great first session with film, Don't get disheartened, it takes a while to get used to it, I have done the same, but I shot MF, a Hasselblad 500c\m and H1 (HM 16-32 film back); also 6x12 on a Sinar F2 with 65mm 5.6 and 90mm f5.6 lenses, it does take time, but film needs light, to react with the silver ions, also a suggestion, if you had trouble focussing, get a 85mm tilt shift, that way you can get BOTH models face and props in focus at the same time (sheimpflug principle). One useful tip, use a dslr to meter, or at least check the analogue meter's settings, the histogram gives a highlight warning (the ] bar on the right) and instant feedback, to see if your exposure is right, PS, I've noticed the hand held meters have a 2/3-1 stop difference to the mirrorless (z6, which I shoot) in matrix metering mode for the same iso settings. a bonus tip: for film use low asa in bright light, ND filters, as you can easily wash out a asa 400 film in summer lighting, also use hoods where possible, to eliminate flaring, also with the lenses you had, you could have used the macro, it has a lower iris setting than most other focal length lenses, F32 rather than F16/F22 so you can achieve more deep depth of field than possible with the other std 55 lenses could achieve, extra safety with focus accuracy.
great video, I just joined and started watching this; I am a Nikon shooter, amongst other brands, just a tip, the flash is different on this model, it goes on the rewind knob post, via a special hot shoe, uses the SB-15 or 24 which has this socket specifically, an adaptor can be purchased to convert to hot shoe (compatible with any SB light, 700/800/900/910); so one can understand why no flash in the studio!!, if one wished to, it is easier to use a F2 model, it has the normal shoe, so std pocket wizards etc. will fit. your "partner" also doesn't mention the other sockets on the base of the camera, they are for a special accessory, the motor winder (it fits through the baseplate, via the silver cover, and the drive gear, so DON'T touch it if film is in!!-this is NOT like a battery grip on a digital slr, this one breeches the film chamber!; also this accessory mounts an AF unit, as well as 250/750 Bulk backs, thats right, 750 FRAMES 🙂 sick right?, this was the "recognisance" and std police issue rig of it's day, and also for journalism and sports, pretty nice kit, PS: the 1,100 price is right, the 55 mm f1.2 is the why for it, it's the 'beast' of its day (like the Z lens 50/85 mm f1.2/0.95 's today).
Thank you so much for this trip down memory lane. From the props, the subject matter, the distance and film constraints imposed by this challenge, this was BIG win with the results ! The second to last time I shot with actual film was late 90's with a borrowed F3, so this was bringing up some old memories . I was very lucky, as my friend I borrowed the camera from , also had his own dark room, and he's a wizard at developing. My chronically under/overexposed pictures, were somewhat bright back to life, from my friend and his darkroom voodoo skills. I loved these results Yuliya. I'd throw out this challenge to a few of your more popular RUclips contemporaries, and see how they measure up. Have us out here in the YT universe judge them. I think you would be VERY surprised how very well you would do. Keep pushing those creative boundaries my friend, it's what makes you SO damn good 😉.
Thank you so much for the inspiring comment. This is a big project that I’m doing so I will have a lot more videos like this coming on RUclips. The future seasons as I gain more experience with film cameras, I will start learning developing and add dark room to the episodes :) You should have lifetime access on BIB TV, so you can see the complete episode and chapters on there. Just so you know, this was my best session so far and my first one. I have lots of failures with these older untested rusty cameras 😂
great video, one tip about the sekonic meter, if you where not as confident with it, turn the dial around the eyepiece, and pop up the dome on the top, then you can use it as a reflected or ambient light meter as well, also this meter is programable, that is to say you can add markers in the scale on the bottom of the lcd to indicate the limits (dynamic range) of the film, so you can instantly see if you are too hot, or under exposed, sekonic calls it digital profiling (of your dslr or mirrorless camera), but you can do this for film too.
Shooting manual cameras is such fun. The F3 has a built-in lightmeter. Wasn't it working? I have an F2 and that one's quite good. Skin is Zone 6, but lightmeters are measuring Zone 5. So with the spotmeter you could have overexposed by one stop.
Thanks for the tips! The camera's light meter was working, but I didn't trust it since I dee the test shoot results 😁 I just didn't want to risk it, but the camera's light meter is pretty accurate.
Stunning thanks to the whole team the performance is remarkable in view of the restrictions I like it!!! after the super sharp side of digital also degrades the look of film work like the clean side on the newspaper, for you it is a disappointment, but we will not know in the future what the intention was and for me, as a noob, when I relate the size of the newspaper and the model, for me the subject was the newspaper for the color photos in B&W, it's your expertise, so for sure you're going to be very critical! Give your photos to another photographer without telling them anything about the challenge, to see what they think. This could be good as a neutral opinion thanks again I don't regret subscribing to your channel in addition to Irene. R and Julia.J You each have an extraordinary photographic expression
Thank you for subscribing and leaving and inspiring comment. This photo session was more about the message, so I am glad that was clear :) I agree, we are always critical about our own photos, but I am trying to get better at film photography. It’s its own beast and totally different from digital photography, so I have a lot to learn :)
It's a little nostalgic to see this. I've watched you with digital, so it's wierd to see you with film. I know guys who still have that camera. 😁 Frist I want to say, your not really over exposed on the black and white film. That can easily be fix in post. I would cut places of card board to doge and burn. Old school with an enlarge. 😆 second, when it was focusing, did you zoom all the way in focus and then zoom out. That's how I used to do it. Lastly that pressure you felt of having 1 roll and a limited time, with everyone staring at you was mine and many photographers I know normal. But that kind of pressure makes you learn very fast. 😆 anyway, nice concept, can't wait to see the rest.
Thanks Thomas ❤️ The whole idea behind these ‘Forbidden Frames’ challenges is to het better and learn from my mistakes. I honestly got lucky with the Nikon F3. In my next sessions I did a lot worse 😂 It only got worse after this session, but I am sure at one point I will pick up the skills and improve.
I got my first film camera last week; canon A-1 with 35-105 and bought fujicolor film and 50 1.4 s.s.c and 100-300. I have shoot half reel and funny thing is yeah forgetting to trigger film winder 🙂↔️
Congratulations on your 1st film camera! It’s quiet fun and yes, we will be forgetting to trigger the shutter for a long time 😂 Let me know how your images turns out.
The 1/80s sync speed is only a problem if you want to shoot in daylight with flash and you intend to eliminate the effctes of the daylight/ sun. I have never felt the 1/80s flash sync to be a big problem. My Pentax 67 has a synch speed of 1/30s and it is still practical.
@@lensman5762 I am not gonna lie, I am still scared to use flash sync with film camera :) I was first scared to use it with digital camera too, but learned that pretty well. That should probably be my next learning :)
You have done very well considering that you are very new to film photography and manual focusing. The best screen for the F3 if you could find one that is, is the Type L which has a split image range finder at 45 degrees. F3s were mainly supplied with plain screens for fast focusing for photojournalism or sports photography. I suggest that you forget the use of spot meter i the future for model photography. You have two easier options. 1: use an incident light meter, or the one I prefer is to use the F3s metering. F3 is almost unique in that the center weighted metering pattern is 90% concentrated on the circular portion of the view finder. With your 180 F2.8, it acts as a wide spot meter so you could read the expsoure directly from her face, chest or body. Your model was very pale, so I would have set the exposure compensation to +1 2/3, and just let the F3 determine the expsoure. If the light or the background changed significantly, I would then just change the value of compensation accordingly. With something like Portra 160, you have a lot of latitude, with transprency much less so. As for focusing, only practice will overcome the difficulties. Sadly, one of the drawbacks of using digital devices has been the loss of basic focusing and exposure selection skills. You are very talented, so I am sure you will get used to it very quickly. As I said, film photography is something else.
Thank you very much for the detailed information and explanation. I definitely need to learn a lot more. I did use the camera meter during my test shoot, but I was late and didn’t get my prints to evaluate the my exposure. So I was skeptical using the camera meter. However, after getting the images, I was amazed by how accurate it is. In most of my next sessions the camera doesn’t even have a meter, nor a variable aperture and shutter speed option 😂 So, it’s going to get interesting 😊 Thanks again for the info. It’s really helpful.
Next camera Bronica GS-1 with the 80mm or 100mm lens. 80 is the newest with the newest coatings. Shoot 6x7. I also love the 200mm. 200mm on 6x7 is like a 100mm. So no worries. Medium format can be other worldly. Pentax 6x7 Mamiya RB67 Mamiya RZ67 Leica 7 Hasselblad anything Yashica 124G Rolleiflex
This is a $15,000 list at minimum 😍 I will definitely try all these legendary cameras but in later seasons once I learn more and I attract more viewers 😜
Lol, good point. You didn't specify camera pricing though. You just asked which ones next. P.s. I have Bronica Gs and all lenses, Hasselblad, Yashica 124g. They're great cameras. Medium format really shows the beauty of using film better than 35mm. Borrow one if you ever get a chance.
Nice and honest with your skills. But u made it a bit tougher by your self. Why u don't let the camera choose the shutterspeed. The F3 is able to do this. Also the metering is accurate if the camera works properly, no need for a lightmeter. For film, most of the time. It's better to overexpose by 2/3 to 1 stop.
Thank you 😊 The idea is for me to master film photography and metering. Indoor shoot the camera meter would be inaccurate because I was going for a specific vision, which I didn’t achieve lol My style for black and white is low-key with lots if contrast. I also didn’t get my images from the test shoot, where I used the camera meter, so I was a bit skeptical trusting it. However, after getting the images, I learned that it’s pretty accurate :)
Analog don't mean that u don't can use the benefits the camera came with. Yep, for studio u are better with sekonic. The outcome is pretty nice. I like the shots.
@@Der_Marc Thank you! I just never shot anything besides manual mode. I always try to adjust my environment to my camera settings rather than my camera setting to my environment. So I use filters, defusers, and artificial lights a lot to achieve my desired camera setting.
Hi 👋🏻 When I was doing my research I saw both F3 and FM2. So it was kinda debatable. It could be FM2. I used both FM2 and F3, and I went with F3 because the Afghan Girl photograph looked more like my F3 photos. Again, it could be either one because internet sources mentioned both cameras. As far as the lens goes, I don’t what lens it was shot with and did not mention that :)
@@yuliyapanchenko Wow, my God, how interesting, I also live in Tehran. So you live with an Iranian boy, I am very happy to meet you, girl. I have a friend who lives in Baku.❤️
It was part of the challenge and also because it Florida lighting changes every second, it’s hard to keep going back and forth and interrupting the model and session. I my last session though I used a light meter instead of the spot meter.
This wasn't realistic at all. First you would normally have time to get used to your camera in the real world so making you use a camera that was simply handed to you is no real test at all. Essentially this whole shoot was rather pointless. The fact you got credible photos with black and white and color is actually pretty damn good. Kudos to you. I'll check out the real you using a camera you know. Recommendation: keep the F3 and shoot more with it then go back to this shoot when you have the F3 set up for you and a light meter you are comfortable. Compare these photos with photos shot during this video with ones shot after you know the F3 better. I would like to see that video since it's the real test. I'll be checking out your channel for the real you.
Join BIB TV with 100s of Boudoir Photo Sessions 100% RISK-FREE: tv.believeinboudoir.com
✨💋💖✨💋💖
great first session with film, Don't get disheartened, it takes a while to get used to it, I have done the same, but I shot MF, a Hasselblad 500c\m and H1 (HM 16-32 film back); also 6x12 on a Sinar F2 with 65mm 5.6 and 90mm f5.6 lenses, it does take time, but film needs light, to react with the silver ions, also a suggestion, if you had trouble focussing, get a 85mm tilt shift, that way you can get BOTH models face and props in focus at the same time (sheimpflug principle).
One useful tip, use a dslr to meter, or at least check the analogue meter's settings, the histogram gives a highlight warning (the ] bar on the right) and instant feedback, to see if your exposure is right, PS, I've noticed the hand held meters have a 2/3-1 stop difference to the mirrorless (z6, which I shoot) in matrix metering mode for the same iso settings.
a bonus tip: for film use low asa in bright light, ND filters, as you can easily wash out a asa 400 film in summer lighting, also use hoods where possible, to eliminate flaring, also with the lenses you had, you could have used the macro, it has a lower iris setting than most other focal length lenses, F32 rather than F16/F22 so you can achieve more deep depth of field than possible with the other std 55 lenses could achieve, extra safety with focus accuracy.
great video, I just joined and started watching this; I am a Nikon shooter, amongst other brands, just a tip, the flash is different on this model, it goes on the rewind knob post, via a special hot shoe, uses the SB-15 or 24 which has this socket specifically, an adaptor can be purchased to convert to hot shoe (compatible with any SB light, 700/800/900/910); so one can understand why no flash in the studio!!, if one wished to, it is easier to use a F2 model, it has the normal shoe, so std pocket wizards etc. will fit.
your "partner" also doesn't mention the other sockets on the base of the camera, they are for a special accessory, the motor winder (it fits through the baseplate, via the silver cover, and the drive gear, so DON'T touch it if film is in!!-this is NOT like a battery grip on a digital slr, this one breeches the film chamber!; also this accessory mounts an AF unit, as well as 250/750 Bulk backs, thats right, 750 FRAMES 🙂 sick right?, this was the "recognisance" and std police issue rig of it's day, and also for journalism and sports, pretty nice kit, PS: the 1,100 price is right, the 55 mm f1.2 is the why for it, it's the 'beast' of its day (like the Z lens 50/85 mm f1.2/0.95 's today).
Thank you so much for this trip down memory lane. From the props, the subject matter, the distance and film constraints imposed by this challenge, this was BIG win with the results ! The second to last time I shot with actual film was late 90's with a borrowed F3, so this was bringing up some old memories . I was very lucky, as my friend I borrowed the camera from , also had his own dark room, and he's a wizard at developing. My chronically under/overexposed pictures, were somewhat bright back to life, from my friend and his darkroom voodoo skills. I loved these results Yuliya. I'd throw out this challenge to a few of your more popular RUclips contemporaries, and see how they measure up. Have us out here in the YT universe judge them. I think you would be VERY surprised how very well you would do. Keep pushing those creative boundaries my friend, it's what makes you SO damn good 😉.
Thank you so much for the inspiring comment. This is a big project that I’m doing so I will have a lot more videos like this coming on RUclips. The future seasons as I gain more experience with film cameras, I will start learning developing and add dark room to the episodes :) You should have lifetime access on BIB TV, so you can see the complete episode and chapters on there. Just so you know, this was my best session so far and my first one. I have lots of failures with these older untested rusty cameras 😂
Yes, of course. Your art is beautiful in all of them, lady
Thank you so much 😊
@@yuliyapanchenko thank you so much 😊
How are you today
great video, one tip about the sekonic meter, if you where not as confident with it, turn the dial around the eyepiece, and pop up the dome on the top, then you can use it as a reflected or ambient light meter as well, also this meter is programable, that is to say you can add markers in the scale on the bottom of the lcd to indicate the limits (dynamic range) of the film, so you can instantly see if you are too hot, or under exposed, sekonic calls it digital profiling (of your dslr or mirrorless camera), but you can do this for film too.
Shooting manual cameras is such fun. The F3 has a built-in lightmeter. Wasn't it working? I have an F2 and that one's quite good. Skin is Zone 6, but lightmeters are measuring Zone 5. So with the spotmeter you could have overexposed by one stop.
Thanks for the tips! The camera's light meter was working, but I didn't trust it since I dee the test shoot results 😁 I just didn't want to risk it, but the camera's light meter is pretty accurate.
Hi Yuliya, I wonder why u didn‘t buy a Nikkor 2.5/105mm. I find this lense absolut ideal for this kind
Hello! It’s because I don’t chose the camera and lens :) It’s a challenge, so I use what ever they give me :)
Stunning
thanks to the whole team
the performance is remarkable in view of the restrictions
I like it!!!
after the super sharp side of digital also degrades the look of film work
like the clean side on the newspaper, for you it is a disappointment, but we will not know in the future what the intention was
and for me, as a noob, when I relate the size of the newspaper and the model, for me the subject was the newspaper for the color photos
in B&W, it's your expertise, so for sure you're going to be very critical!
Give your photos to another photographer without telling them anything about the challenge, to see what they think.
This could be good as a neutral opinion
thanks again
I don't regret subscribing to your channel in addition to Irene. R and Julia.J
You each have an extraordinary photographic expression
Thank you for subscribing and leaving and inspiring comment. This photo session was more about the message, so I am glad that was clear :) I agree, we are always critical about our own photos, but I am trying to get better at film photography. It’s its own beast and totally different from digital photography, so I have a lot to learn :)
It's a little nostalgic to see this. I've watched you with digital, so it's wierd to see you with film. I know guys who still have that camera. 😁 Frist I want to say, your not really over exposed on the black and white film. That can easily be fix in post. I would cut places of card board to doge and burn. Old school with an enlarge. 😆 second, when it was focusing, did you zoom all the way in focus and then zoom out. That's how I used to do it. Lastly that pressure you felt of having 1 roll and a limited time, with everyone staring at you was mine and many photographers I know normal. But that kind of pressure makes you learn very fast. 😆 anyway, nice concept, can't wait to see the rest.
Thanks Thomas ❤️ The whole idea behind these ‘Forbidden Frames’ challenges is to het better and learn from my mistakes. I honestly got lucky with the Nikon F3. In my next sessions I did a lot worse 😂 It only got worse after this session, but I am sure at one point I will pick up the skills and improve.
I got my first film camera last week; canon A-1 with 35-105 and bought fujicolor film and 50 1.4 s.s.c and 100-300. I have shoot half reel and funny thing is yeah forgetting to trigger film winder 🙂↔️
Congratulations on your 1st film camera! It’s quiet fun and yes, we will be forgetting to trigger the shutter for a long time 😂 Let me know how your images turns out.
Love the F3 - I wish I could add a digital back to one ... 🦘
Gran trabajo que hace está hermosísima mujer una gran artista ❤
Thank you so much! I try to be better 😋
I had a Nikon F3hp and shot thousands of rolls of film. Loved that camera,
only thing I wasn't keen on was slow sync speed of 1/80.
I agree! I didn’t use the sync but I wouldn’t want to be limited to shooting at 1/80s :)
The 1/80s sync speed is only a problem if you want to shoot in daylight with flash and you intend to eliminate the effctes of the daylight/ sun. I have never felt the 1/80s flash sync to be a big problem. My Pentax 67 has a synch speed of 1/30s and it is still practical.
@@lensman5762 I am not gonna lie, I am still scared to use flash sync with film camera :) I was first scared to use it with digital camera too, but learned that pretty well. That should probably be my next learning :)
We are waiting 🙏🏻
Thanks friend 😋
You have done very well considering that you are very new to film photography and manual focusing. The best screen for the F3 if you could find one that is, is the Type L which has a split image range finder at 45 degrees. F3s were mainly supplied with plain screens for fast focusing for photojournalism or sports photography. I suggest that you forget the use of spot meter i the future for model photography. You have two easier options. 1: use an incident light meter, or the one I prefer is to use the F3s metering. F3 is almost unique in that the center weighted metering pattern is 90% concentrated on the circular portion of the view finder. With your 180 F2.8, it acts as a wide spot meter so you could read the expsoure directly from her face, chest or body. Your model was very pale, so I would have set the exposure compensation to +1 2/3, and just let the F3 determine the expsoure. If the light or the background changed significantly, I would then just change the value of compensation accordingly. With something like Portra 160, you have a lot of latitude, with transprency much less so. As for focusing, only practice will overcome the difficulties. Sadly, one of the drawbacks of using digital devices has been the loss of basic focusing and exposure selection skills. You are very talented, so I am sure you will get used to it very quickly. As I said, film photography is something else.
Thank you very much for the detailed information and explanation. I definitely need to learn a lot more. I did use the camera meter during my test shoot, but I was late and didn’t get my prints to evaluate the my exposure. So I was skeptical using the camera meter. However, after getting the images, I was amazed by how accurate it is. In most of my next sessions the camera doesn’t even have a meter, nor a variable aperture and shutter speed option 😂 So, it’s going to get interesting 😊 Thanks again for the info. It’s really helpful.
@@yuliyapanchenko You are a brave woman.
A la espera
Sorprendenos
Con tu talento y belleza 🥂🥂🥂🍾
Thank you very much 🤗
Next camera
Bronica GS-1 with the 80mm or 100mm lens. 80 is the newest with the newest coatings. Shoot 6x7. I also love the 200mm. 200mm on 6x7 is like a 100mm. So no worries.
Medium format can be other worldly.
Pentax 6x7
Mamiya RB67
Mamiya RZ67
Leica 7
Hasselblad anything
Yashica 124G
Rolleiflex
This is a $15,000 list at minimum 😍 I will definitely try all these legendary cameras but in later seasons once I learn more and I attract more viewers 😜
Lol, good point. You didn't specify camera pricing though. You just asked which ones next. P.s. I have Bronica Gs and all lenses, Hasselblad, Yashica 124g. They're great cameras. Medium format really shows the beauty of using film better than 35mm. Borrow one if you ever get a chance.
@@mverick160 I would love to. Where are you located at? We are coming to Europe in 2 weeks and will do a few episodes there.
My heart✨💋💖
❤️❤️
wow🥰
👏👏👏📽️🔝
Thanks 😊
Saludos Yuliya una grande!
Thank you ❤
Yuliya, tu trabajo y profesionalismo es superlativo
respect
Thank you!
Hello my friend 👋
How are you today 😊
Hello 👋
@@yuliyapanchenko hello 👋
How are you my friend
@@yuliyapanchenko Why are you underemployed?
@@yuliyapanchenko hello Julia
@@yuliyapanchenko hello 👋
Good morning lady ☺️☺️😉
You don't need to set up ISO on the camera when you shoot in manual mode and didn't use embedded lightmeter ;)
The ISO is just for my own reference and the camera light meter wasn’t tested 😊
Nice and honest with your skills. But u made it a bit tougher by your self.
Why u don't let the camera choose the shutterspeed. The F3 is able to do this.
Also the metering is accurate if the camera works properly, no need for a lightmeter.
For film, most of the time. It's better to overexpose by 2/3 to 1 stop.
Thank you 😊 The idea is for me to master film photography and metering. Indoor shoot the camera meter would be inaccurate because I was going for a specific vision, which I didn’t achieve lol My style for black and white is low-key with lots if contrast.
I also didn’t get my images from the test shoot, where I used the camera meter, so I was a bit skeptical trusting it. However, after getting the images, I learned that it’s pretty accurate :)
Analog don't mean that u don't can use the benefits the camera came with.
Yep, for studio u are better with sekonic. The outcome is pretty nice.
I like the shots.
@@Der_Marc Thank you! I just never shot anything besides manual mode. I always try to adjust my environment to my camera settings rather than my camera setting to my environment. So I use filters, defusers, and artificial lights a lot to achieve my desired camera setting.
4:10 the Afghan girl was actually shot on a Nikon FM2
I discovered that when I was doing my reseed on the Nikon FM2 :) The video will come out soon, but you are right ❤️
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Thank you 😊
Lady, Afgan girl was taken with FM2 and probably with zoom lens and not 105mm f2.5.
Hi 👋🏻 When I was doing my research I saw both F3 and FM2. So it was kinda debatable. It could be FM2. I used both FM2 and F3, and I went with F3 because the Afghan Girl photograph looked more like my F3 photos. Again, it could be either one because internet sources mentioned both cameras. As far as the lens goes, I don’t what lens it was shot with and did not mention that :)
It was shot on a FM2 with the famous 105mm f2.5
You are amazing woman Yuliya.
Thank you so much ☺️
@@yuliyapanchenko yourwelcome beautiful.
❤ 👋 Hi
Hello 👋🏻
Yulia ..
Hello my dear ❤😍
Hello! Are you from Iran?
@@yuliyapanchenko yes 🙌
Wher are you from?
@@yuliyapanchenko yes 🙌
And you
@@bahmandavoodi4042 I am from Baku and my husband is from Tabriz
@@yuliyapanchenko Wow, my God, how interesting, I also live in Tehran. So you live with an Iranian boy, I am very happy to meet you, girl. I have a friend who lives in Baku.❤️
👀
😍🧚♀️🥰
⚘️⚘️⚘️⚘️⚘️
❤️
Guapaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa 🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Thank you ❤️
@@yuliyapanchenko Preciosa, elegante, eres una mujer deliciosa💐💐
Why not take an incident reading from the sun. You’d get a better overall reading.
It was part of the challenge and also because it Florida lighting changes every second, it’s hard to keep going back and forth and interrupting the model and session. I my last session though I used a light meter instead of the spot meter.
After the F3, its all down hill from there on.
The Nikon Z8 is pretty good though 😜
@@yuliyapanchenko It is, but its digital, meaning its an imaging computer. Film is something else.
@@lensman5762I totally agree! I am keep getting disappointing results 😫
This wasn't realistic at all. First you would normally have time to get used to your camera in the real world so making you use a camera that was simply handed to you is no real test at all. Essentially this whole shoot was rather pointless. The fact you got credible photos with black and white and color is actually pretty damn good. Kudos to you. I'll check out the real you using a camera you know. Recommendation: keep the F3 and shoot more with it then go back to this shoot when you have the F3 set up for you and a light meter you are comfortable. Compare these photos with photos shot during this video with ones shot after you know the F3 better. I would like to see that video since it's the real test. I'll be checking out your channel for the real you.