I just seen this video. My lord son you made my back hurt just watching. I swing a 16lb monster maul here an there when needed. Take care of that back an keep up the great work.
Perfect technique on that 30 lbs maul . Straight up centered over your body , let the length of the handle and the weight of the head go the work 👍 Perfect
Stick around and read the comments too! Sort of a mix of 20% information and 80% pull-your-hair-out frustrating, but entertaining either way I hope! Cheers, thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!!
@@thepowertoact would you care if I “axe” you if you plan on making more content on this channel? I noticed it’s been a little while since you uploaded last and I was kinda bummed. I hope you’re doing alright! Cheers back to ya
@@Herculesbiggercousin I'd love to make more videos but where is the time? I have a few that I filmed but I'm still editing, and I look a bit younger in them... yes it's been a while but I have more ideas than time, unfortunately. But I'm super busy doing cool stuff, and firewood is a pretty minor part of that. I did split some firewood today though, and aiming to make some time this winter to break a whole lot of rock. Thanks for being a fan, I really appreciate the support!
The question is really, which one do you really want to use to split for hours? I'd hate to be tired, and get sloppy with that 30# chunk of steel... Hell, my 8# maul becomes less and less fun to use very quickly, that's why I save it for when it's really needed. I do the vast majority of my splitting with 3.5 and 4# axes, lol. (plus the maul I have kinda sux.) It is a different technique, though. With a maul, you aren't the power behind the blows- just the guidance and lifting system.
Nope, but there are plenty of people who can't lift it-- so I hope that goes a little bit towards fulfilling your comic book fantasy! : D Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I also use the Fiskars X27 - BUT my long time composite handle 8 lb maul is still a necessity. Suggest using the Fiskars with side cuts as the Maul will do the most good if a center cut as you seem to realize with the second log and "bouncing" the axe. Otherwise, off-grain and limbs on that size - tough for the axe but that maul is a beast!
Damn son, that's a hell of a maul! Looked like it was kicking your ass. Personally I'd probably go with the Fiskars, take a couple or three more swings without having a freaking heart attack. Locusts is pretty easy to split, you outta try some of this FL live oak, grains all gnarly and twisted, on a lot of this stuff I pretty much gave up on mauls and axes and used wedges and a 12 lb sledge hammer, and some of it I just had to give up and burn it like it is.
God willing, I'll be sufficiently hale at 64 just to watch my kids or grandkids split wood, let alone swing any tools. Hats off to you! Have fun splitting firewood!
I agree. I just started splitting at 65. It is fun, fascinating and... addicting. Oh yeah, it is good cardio. Which reminds me that I need to get a heart monitor like he had on in his first videos. My first go round with big rounds, I tried one. Did it. Next day tried another, then another, then a third. You get the picture, between the cold weather, dehydration, lack of sleep, stress...I about killed myself over the next two days from way overdoing it!! Here is my playlist: Watch "Splitting Firewood With Mauls and Axes" on RUclips ruclips.net/p/PLsEWVATMY6q35P7vOFoZvqZCfK8sLzZeT Here is my series on Splitting Firewood: "Reinventing The Wheels: BOTH Log Splitters and The Jerry:" on RUclips ruclips.net/video/H-LwOCR5Exs/видео.html
Thank you! It's more about coordination than strength-- the weight of the tool is doing most of the work. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Thanks! It was fun to make and it's tons of fun to use, even if its real usefulness is essentially limited to huge rounds. Have fun splitting firewood!
brute force serves you well in your 20s and 30s, but as I get older I realize there are a couple of tricks I personally need to use to keep splitting for two or three hours without becoming a cramped up mess for the next 2 days... You're probably not looking for advice given the determination on your face, but even with the X 27 and a 30 pounder, work around the logs after you've made the initial partial split and still standing… That second hit perp. To the first will exert enough pressure the finish the first split and complete second, then you only have to reset the remaining half to split. Larger rounds similar, hit just enough to leave it split but standing, work around it... sounds finicky but i'm more about efficiency in my old age... Keep swings young feller!
+steve r Around here, that method's called slabbing. Agreed, it works great! I've discussed in other comments that these videos were for demonstration purposes and are not exactly representative of the way I split wood for production purposes... but here's another reason I don't like slabbing: it's mechanically less efficient. Rounds, especially ones weakened by checking, have considerably more tensile strength in the orientation of the slabbing split. So that means you're doing more net work slabbing, although at a considerably lower power output. So if you've got power limitations, slabbing is the way to go! Briefly, the other reasons I don't like slabbing are that it creates smaller, more unevenly shaped pieces. My job in splitting firewood is to break the big rounds into chunks that somebody can pick up with two hands and load into a truck/trailer/cart, and that my father, kid sister, or brother can easily break apart with the Fiskars or a small maul. So my goal is to make rather large pieces as fast as possible, and that means splitting radially with a massive maul to divide the rounds into halves, quarters, etcetera. But, if I'd had more time and more clear rounds I would've done a slabbing video or two as well. Maybe next winter! Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
What, and then have to touch and lift EVERY single round and put it on the platform? Nah, not for me, and most other people who split lots of firewood by hand split on the ground too. But thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I used a waterjet saw and angle grinder to cut the plates, and a flux-core welder to weld them together. I used a saw, milling machine, drawknife, and sandpaper to make the handle. There are many alternative methods to do the metalwork and carpentry to get the same result. Feel free to send me a direct message to get the technical drawings for the head, etc.
If you don't have access to a waterjet saw, you could use a plasma cutter or an oxy-acetylene torch to cut the steel plate, including the eye. A milling machine would work too, but it would be more of a pain. If you don't have access to any of these, you could cut the outside of the wedge with an angle grinder and you could drill out the perimeter of the eye with an electric drill or drill press. In the long run it's probably easiest to go to your local metal/welding shop and pay them to cut the metal for your rather than trying that last option, though.
Short answer- if I understand what you mean by my "upright form," then yes, it's MUCH easier on your body, for two big reasons: -- My technique puts less torque on your lumbar spine, so that means less stress on your lower back. -- It's biomechanically more efficient, so that means you will get more work done with the same amount of effort. Swinging around your shoulder (like you seem to be describing) is what most people do. I don't understand why, as it really doesn't offer any advantages... But many people are very resistant to having their woodsplitting form criticized or considering anything other than "their way" of doing things-- so thank you for being open minded and asking about it instead of telling me I'm doing it wrong. (I'm not.) : D If you read through the comments section on this channel, you'll find plenty conversations I've had discussing my technique for swinging long-handled striking tools... Over on my most recent rock-breaking video I posted a very long and thorough explanation, if you're up for reading a brief dissertation on the topic! (5 pages single spaced...) I also highly recommend Mr Gyromudd's tutorial on this technique. There are a few things I'd do a little differently, but his video is excellent, particularly in the way that it contains zero ego: ruclips.net/video/soOJDRlRUQM/видео.html Welcome aboard, and thanks for watching! Have fun splitting firewood!!
Additionally, as far as your concern about becoming unbalanced in terms of strength-- with either technique, it's important to be able to swing left-handed or right-handed. If you can swing righty and lefty, then switching off will help balance how you develop muscle (if that's a concern for you).
@@thepowertoact I find the way I swing far more effective for me to split wood than straight up like you are doing. but I can see what you say about putting more stress on your back. It’s like a baseball player hitting a ball they all have different stances.
Fireplaces aren't very efficient- we burn in woodstoves. In firebox dimensions, I split for a 23" (F500) Jotul, a 12"x12"x24" Reginald 102, a 20"x16"x26" plate steel stove, and a big ol' Portage and Main outdoor wood boiler. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
This video was for demonstrating the relative merits of the two tools. I later split the halves into more typical firewood dimensions. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I'm just curious as to why your rounds are so long, 16" is the most I've seen and is pretty standard around here. I am also curious as to why you do not have a large block under what your splitting, like one of those huge rounds of I think it was oak. By the way that oak was impressive, I myself have split oak and it took over 30 swings to crack it, first 20 Just bounced off the top. And have fun splitting firewood!!
Hi there, thanks for watching! And thank you for your questions! Why the rounds longer than 16"? We have big stoves! We aim for about 22" for the stove those were going into. All other things being equal it's much easier to split shorter rounds, but splitting tools and labor are cheaper than chainsaw consumables and maintenance, so it makes more sense for us to make fewer saw cuts and work a little harder to split the rounds. Why no splitting block? First off, it doesn't make sense in terms of efficiency of time or effort. It IS true that a splitting block will make the impact more sudden and therefore slightly more effective- it reduces the pressure against the (often soft) ground by spreading out the striking force over a larger area so the round doesn't push into the ground as much, and it also adds mass (and therefore inertia) to what's between the tool and ground on impact. But that's more theoretical than practical. If I had a splitting block, I would have to lift each round onto that block as well as bring each round to the splitting block in the first place, which adds more time and effort. Splitting on a block also imposes the logistical requirement of having a splitting block to begin with, which I frequently don't, so I don't feel like being dependent on one. It's much more convenient for me to spread out the rounds and just split them as they are, without lifting or moving them more than I have to. The same argument applies to splitting with bungee cords or tires. (To split firewood efficiently, what I think about most is how many times I touch the wood. Every time I place a hand on the wood, that's labor that doesn't directly result in split firewood, and every time I lift the wood it's significant mechanical effort that doesn't result in split firewood. So no carrying wood from the pile to a splitting block, and often no stacking it either once it's split. Ideally the process looks like this: fell, limb, and buck the tree, then (1) split all the rounds too large to move by hand on site with a big maul, (2) load the wood into a truck/firewood trailer and (3) unload it in our wood processing area, (4) split the firewood as needed and as it's seasoned well from the pile into the pile using a smaller maul or splitting axe, then (5) load the firewood up and (6) take it to the stoves to burn it. Even so, that's touching/lifting the firewood a minimum of 6 times and often as many as 10 or more.) Secondly we can look at it from a mechanical perspective. My splitting swing exploits gravity as much as possible. If I raised the round at all, for example by placing the round on a block, I would lose a significant amount of gravitational potential energy. I'd love to get some actual data to support this, but my experience and engineering common sense tell me that the strike energy lost by raising the round on a block is MUCH greater than the energy saved from dissipation by placing the round on a block. (This is also another reason why shorter rounds are easier to split, although the primary reason is just reduced crack area compared to a longer round of equal diameter...) Third, I'm sufficiently confident in my control over the tool that I'm not very concerned with putting it into the ground and damaging the sharpness of its edge (which is more of a concern with the sharp Fiskars than with Big Bad Bruce, my 30 pound maul-- if you pay attention you can see that I'm much more careful to keep the Fiskars from passing through the round than I am with Big Bad Bruce). This is the main reason why I always start people out splitting on blocks when teaching them- it saves my tools from their mistakes. (The other reason is their own safety- splitting on a block is much more consistent and predictable, and people who are just learning how to split wood don't have the experience necessary to judge how the tool and wood will interact when variables start to change.) Fourth, a reason that's specific to filming this video is splitting on a block would have introduced more variables, and therefore inaccuracy, into this tool comparison, as well as making the action longer and less continuous. The time it would have taken me to set up the rounds on the block would have made for a less dramatic comparison as well as one that would have been harder for me to post-process and analyze. Sure, I could have started the timer at the beginning of the first swing on each round using a block, but that wouldn't have been as easy or as interesting for me, Moreover, I was comparing these tools as I'd actually use them in practice, so splitting on the ground was appropriately representative of that. Have fun splitting firewood!
That maul has some authority when it hits those logs. It's just making that happen is where i have the problem lol. Your a tuff dude!!! Ill stick with the ax 😁👍👍👍👍
I like my grandpas old 10 pounder just fine been using it many year to make a living and can still show youngsters how it's done but prefer my nice new gas splitter now I'm doing 50 cords a winter but hey hats off to you on working that 30 pounder talk about taking initiative good job bud we need more young folk willing to get in and get physical to make a living
Thanks! Me too-- I wish more of my peers got out and learned what physical work is. Manual labor is good for your soul! 10 pounds is a nice weight. I really like my 12 pounder, it's what I use most of the time for medium-sized rounds. And nothing beats the Fiskars for little stuff. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I think it depends whether you're naturally right or left handed. However, I've tried to learn the way that feels less natural to me, because sometimes switching hands helps me to strike rounds at angles that are unnatural with my usual swing. Have fun splitting firewood!
Pipelyon I made the 30 pound maul for quartering rounds. The Fiskars is great for breaking up the pieces after that. If you gave me a pile of rounds smaller than 12 inches (0.3m) in diameter, I'd use the Fiskars pretty much exclusively, although I do have a few other smaller mauls. If I had to use one tool for everything I'd use an Ironton 12 lb maul: www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200621546_200621546 ...it's no Sotz maul, but it's better than the other Sotz clones that have short handles and tend to break along the head-handle weld. For rounds this size, I'd only break out Big Bad Bruce if I wanted extra exercise. It's a little overkill on effort, although it doesn't get stuck as much as the Fiskars. Thanks for watching!
interesting to see even with the 30 pound it still took 2 0r 3 swings .I thought that beast would have got it in one .good comparison heavy weight but fewer swings ,lighter weight more swings .......i''m 50 next year think i'll stick with my 8lb roughneck maul .Thanks for posting .Take care .
Thanks! A lot of it has to do with accuracy. I'm not as accurate with the 30 pound maul as I am with the Fiskars, and that matters more on these little rounds. If my aim were perfect, I think maybe half of the rounds would have split in one hit with the 30 pound maul. However, accuracy is a legitimate part of the comparison, and one clear disadvantage of increasing tool weight is decreasing the agility of my swing. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
At large-scale production, maybe $150 or even under $100, depending on how large-scale we're talking about. For small-scale production $250 would be about breaking even. What would you pay for one?
If you're paying for all that gas, why not just heat your house with oil? This is appropriate technology. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appropriate_technology Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I used to do that regularly ,but i guarantee the time will come when like like me ,your back will give in, and i was very fit, get yourself a hydraulic log splitter,it makes good sense.
Oh, I surely do already have a hydraulic splitter. It's slow, loud, and less fun... Great for the stuff I can't split by hand, though! Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Nice video. But why you're trying to split those logs from the middle? I can bet you do not trying to rip up any kind of wrapping from the middle. It is just harder than do it from the ends. Also I'm sure you were doing splitting not the first time. So you had to notice that fact by yourself.
This video is a demonstration, not a tutorial. I judged it a fairer comparison of splitting performance to halve the rounds instead of slab them. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Cool video but I'll take my 8 lb Trupper splitting maul. That 30 lber had some splitting power but nobody could swing it all day. I can swing my 8 lb maul several hours.
I can work with that 30 pound maul at a steady pace (not a sprint like this) for about four hours at a time. Breaks come naturally from picking up all the pieces in between rounds, and I switch to a lighter tool once I've broken up the rounds a bit. I wouldn't normally use Big Bad Bruce on little stuff like this, though; he's meant just for breaking up large diameter rounds. I split this oak in three days with these tools: ruclips.net/video/tfhylr3sNng/видео.html For endurance, try the Fiskars X27 if you haven't already. It's a beautiful tool for minimizing effort splitting through small diameter clear rounds. And in general, in my experience it often works as well as larger mauls but with less effort and more control. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Now ya gotta quarter them! If your not looking for a total workout. Use a mini sledge hammer to drive the wedge through once it bites into to wood. Less energy used to get same result.
Yeah, I think I took those rounds into sixths before they went in the stove... and using a 4 lb sledge to drive wedges would definitely work, but it would be slow slow slow (and a lot less fun). Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood--- with your dinky hammer. : )
Straight grain locust is one of the easiest woods to split this guy's in good shape no doubt but I know from the size of the maw's he hes at maximum 5'8" and maybe 170 tops and he would do way better with a good Axe more speed on the fall way less work I been splitting wood for 25+years by hand and a good Axe is always better than a mawl
Lol the mic on whatever you are using to video must be very good. I thought the camera man was getting hot and bothered watching you work. That was you breathing so heavy.
If I had to pick one or the other I'd pick the Fiskars, especially for stuff this size. Fortunately, I can have both. I wouldn't normally use my 30 pound maul on rounds this size, but I like to use it to break apart really large rounds. Have fun splitting firewood!
Thanks for the compliment! But I'm nobody. Get lots of practice, talk to folks who know more than you do, and always reflect on how you could do it better. Work hard yet don't forget to have fun while you're at it!
Я русский, у нас колят дрова обычно зимой. Тест считаю неверным, потому что 30 фунтовым колуном дольше 10 минут не поработаешь. У нас говорят "Тише едешь - дальше будешь". На большой дистанции, 7-8 часов, фискарс разгромно выиграет, потому что тролльский колун слишком тяжел и имеет смещённый центр тяжести, работать им без вреда для здоровья невозможно
Great job. Keep the videos comming. Enjoying the comments, suddenly everybodys an expert. I would like to see any of the nay sayers do exactly what you did in this video anywhere near the timeframe. All the best for the year ahead
Thank you- glad you enjoyed the comments! More videos? Plenty in my head ready to go, but getting them filmed and edited is another thing. Got a lot going on these days. Have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact yes definatly more videos. Good to see a man do honest work and not the crap bullshit most people put on here. People will always be interested. In the real deal. Lots to cover. Axe shape. Weight. Wood types preferences. Not to mention stacking drying techniques. Chainsaws whole other topic lol
Sorry to disappoint, but most of the videos I have plans for have nothing to do with splitting firewood. But hopefully you'll find them interesting anyway!
I intend to do a production run of just the heads this winter, maybe just 20 or 25 pounds though. Slightly modifying the design as well. Cost is going to be about $250 plus shipping. Let me know if you'd like to buy one. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact i wouldnt be able to afford one of those lol, but i think it would be awesome if i made my own so i could say " I made my own splittin maul", but thanks anyway man, and i ALWAYS have fun splittin wood😃
Talk is cheap, but metalwork is not. I hope you do make your own version of my maul -and please post a video if you do!- but in doing so you will likely find that materials, labor, and machine time will cost you on that same order of magnitude if you make one as good as mine. Admittedly I built some profit into that estimate, and you could certainly compromise on quality in your build to make it cost less... go for it! I'd be flattered, and I'm excited to see your result.
I am not a senior master of the timber yards, but I would say, that Fiskars makes ultimate quality axes..! Here in Finland where these axes are made I have had a privilege to deal with several items from Light versions to heavy duty splitting models. A little lighter piece in my opinion is the best for few hour spitting session. 2kg/4,4 lbs in weight and about 70 cm/28 inc long model Will do all the manual effort needed..! Of course I can not say how it is in America where the smallest firewood timber is ginormous in finnish scale... But the guys doing all that woodcutting seen for example in you tube seem to be very agressive in my opinion - and like doing all that for show business and experimental speed practice..!? But Its all different here, where we have a log about 15 inches too thick for moto or chainsaw to take down to be effective for the business🤭 In America that measurement- I think-- would be maybe the thickness of a slightly bigger branch at some point😊
Thanks for watching and commenting! The European perspective is fascinating-- you're absolutely right that the paradigm for firewood is totally different over there. The Fiskars splitting axe was born in European woodlots, and small diameter stuff like that is really what it does best. And you're right that over here we have much larger trees to split for firewood-- it would be better to turn these big trees into lumber, but at least they get used!
dude put the maul near you knee then swing it up and over your head pulling it down hard when you hand meets your other hand it works way better and way more force in your swing
Hi there! Thanks for watching! I'm not sure what technique you're describing, but if you mean a fast "golf" swing, a roundhouse sweep around your side and shoulder- no amount of splitting force is worth the torque which that sort of swing puts on your lower back... (Also, I would mathematically/biomechanically contest the claim that a swing like that actually does impart all that much more force than my technique.) If you mean the low lumbar torque method of keeping the tool handle in the plane of your body, keeping your back straight, starting the swing by keeping your hand at the center-of-mass then bending your knees and using the muscles in your legs to drive the tool head up as high as possible, shifting your grip and then using your whole body to pull it straight down into the round, leaning back and flicking your wrists at the end of the stroke- well, that's what I thought I was doing... Please keep contributing to the discourse! Maybe explain a little more clearly what you mean, or link to a video which illustrates your technique? Most importantly, have fun splitting firewood!
The 8 pound Fiskars IsoCore maul is a nice tool, but what's really amazing about it is the extent to which Fiskars listened to the criticisms of the X27 and then made a tool that addressed pretty much every one of those criticisms... you should check it out! Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Not trying to be rude...REALLY what was the purpose of this? The x27 is a "splitting ax" at 6lb and the maul was 30lb. Would it have been somewhat better to compare the Fishkar 2x 8lb maul? The outcome the 30lb maul was thirty seconds faster. I believe if the 2x was used the outcome would have been the same. Tip: A common mistake on RUclips, TikTok, etc videos is setting the proper font level to be able to read your message over your video. I worked in television broadcasting for over thirty years. I am offering this tip as a suggestion for your future videos. 🪓🪓🪓
Don't know how it would fare on elm, that's a pretty tough wood. The wide wedge and mass help a lot with stringy woods though, so I imagine it might do better than most. If you're serious about wanting a maul like this, your local welder could definitely make one for you! Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting that elm!
Damn, I wouldn't even be able to lift that huge maul above my head without falling backwards from the weight of it! LOL But then again, I'm a woman, so I'll just stick to my Fiskars X27, thank you. :) Pretty happy with it. ;) Cheers, was a very interesting video to be honest. Ps: preparing myself to split almost 2000 kilo's of freschly cut down green pinewood. Been hauling those +20kilos logs back and forth from our neighbor to my house for two days now, and let me tell you: the pain is very real! So I might be considering to wait a few days before attacking those logs with my ax, otherwise the painkillers won't help anymore. LOL
Thanks for the interest in my video! Yes, the X27 is a fantastic tool. Have fun splitting firewood! (And I hope you stayed warm and had plenty of fun too with that pine this winter!)
Concave or convex C-shape? Convex would help prevent it from sticking in the wood, concave would help it split better. My design for a second one isn't quite concave, but it's sharper at the tip. Personally, what I think would make the biggest difference is improved accuracy with the 30 pounder. It's so heavy that I have a hard time aiming it... go figure. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Tbh I would like to see both but it doesnt have to be a speed run like this video right now my setup is that little axe you where using in this video but it has been getting stuck in a lot of the hard woods and I gotta use my bfh and smack it through which is already the same size as that bigger axe you was using I was planning on getting one which is why I'm asking convex is the way i was gonna go cause its prob gonna need a lot of sharpening but I've never worked with a concave you peeked my interests. I was gonna buy a 50lb bfh and just sharpen one side I didn't know that they had bigger splitters. Ty
splitting wood is all about how energy you can produce, speed of swing to weight ratio. on that size wood i would guarantee i could split all those in 60 seconds withe the fiskars. the 30 pound mauls takes to much energy to swing if you were going to do it steady.
+Kayla Johnson Big Bad Bruce is meant for much larger rounds; this was a comparison out of its normal range of use. It's edifying and interesting to see how and why it outperforms the Fiskars in this comparison, but the video isn't meant to suggest that the 30 pound maul is a more appropriate tool for small rounds. Did you read the analysis in the description? "While the 30 pound maul technically wins this race, the Fiskars or a traditional maul is a more appropriate tool for logs this small. Over the course of an entire woodpile, the low weight of Fiskars would reduce fatigue sufficiently to give it a distinct advantage for most people." Have fun splitting firewood!
Si no lo llamaban a comer al tipo que hizo el Acha hasta ahora le seguía mandando hierro .para 8 horas de trabajo en rajar troncos es una mole eso . Imponente el vídeo
Well I didn't have fun splitting the firewood, but I must say you excel in that department. Also was a bit relieved to see someone stronger than me having a problem or two with knots. I mean it's not only the matter of technique. Sometimes you just need to get over them with pure brainless force. I see that ( just like by me) at times axe just bounced back like ball on knotty logs, that's a real test for hands amortisation. My elbow says Fiskars has better solution od this problem than traditional maul producers.
Damn it, I hoped you won't end your reply in the same way... Actually I wrote this mainly to see what will you come up with. I guess I failed miserably. You even used Caps, damn it! 😀 😄
Look i see you bro your a beast but ive been watching all these wood splitting videos and i see one thing in common. Your just splitting them once there should be q new youtube rule for setting personal best splitting. The rule is: 4 peices. Every round should be no more than 16 inches tall and gotta be split into atleast 4 peices. Like real firewood peices. Usually i go 5 or 6 but just for youtube it should be atleast 4. Are you with me?
Really, you think so? You would try to slab a round that isn't even a foot in diameter? I would never try to slab something this small, it just doesn't make sense, even on a wood that isn't locust... Breaking a 10" round radially into sixths will make some nice, regular firewood sticks, especially if it's a straightgrained hard wood like locust. Quarters will make heftier pieces. Slabbing is going to make some weird shaped, irregular pieces and, I'm pretty sure, not get your round into the woodpile any faster... But hey, maybe you know something I don't. Care to elaborate? Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Way more effective with the fiskars that maul looks cartoonish and ridiculously heavy to handle i have some videos up of me splitting green locust and green oak check them out if your would like thanks
Hi there Matt, thanks for watching and commenting! Yep, I made the 30 pound maul mostly just for fun to see what the biggest maul I could use was, so cartoonish is a good word for it. It's definitely not the tool of choice on these little rounds, but on large diameter clear rounds it breaks them apart faster than wedges. It's most effective on clear oak and poplar rounds about 3 feet in diameter. I took a look at your videos-- good for you for splitting on the ground! That requires good control over the tool to do right, and you look like you're in good control. I don't think splitting in a tire is that helpful though-- instead of the tire, if you just stand all your rounds up on the ground so that they're just barely not touching each other, then you can get the same benefit that the tire provides without having to move the rounds into the tire and move the tire around (plus you don't need a tire). I wonder why you're choosing the X25 over the X27 though... the longer the handle, the more mechanical advantage you can exploit by raising the tool as high as possible before bringing it down (longer handle means you can lift it higher). I wonder if it's because you put the head of the tool behind your shoulders when you're raising it up to swing. Putting the tool behind your head like that offers no mechanical advantage (and it actually greatly increases the strain on your back) and it's harder and harder to do as the handle of the tool gets longer. If you check out how I lift both the X27 and Big Bad Bruce, you'll see that I'm lifting them up straight up in the air as high as they'll go, then bringing them down as hard and fast as possible, and never letting the head of the tool go behind my head/shoulders. There's a good wikihow tutorial on this technique of firewood splitting, and there's also a good tutorial video by Mr Gyromudd here on youtube about it. I can find the links for you if you'd like. Again, thanks for watching! Have fun splitting firewood!
Any knots and the big boy will struggle to go through. With that smaller one you spilt arround the outside. Also how tired are you from swinging that big boy all day.
Eh, kind of. The big guy does reasonably well powering through knots, though what I made it for was quickly breaking up large clear rounds faster than using wedges-- and it does that very well, though accuracy is a challenge. I call splitting around the edges "slabbing," and I'd rather not slab rounds unless I really have to: 1) it's slower 2) it's mechanically less efficient 3) it makes uglier and less regular sticks of firewood. I'd also never try to slab rounds this small in diameter. As long as you CAN quarter the rounds, it's almost always faster to split them down that way. For a big oak round (two feet in diameter or larger) it's very difficult to make the initial halving split radially with a small tool like the Fiskars (I made some other videos on that). My 12 pound Sotz clone works fine, but it often takes quite a few hits. So that's why I made the 30 pound maul-- to break up those big rounds. These videos were not me trying to show the world how to split firewood, but instead trying to compare the physics of these two very different tools under the same circumstances... but a lot of people seem not to understand that. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
@@thepowertoact Cheers mate. I'm from New Zealand, we don't really get a huge amount of straight timber. Splitting something so long here would be an exception to the rule. Espically the native trees, they are bloody good burning but hard as hell.
@@roilhead These locust rounds are unusually long for the USA, too. The differences in species of wood are very hard to address online... I'd love to travel the world and do some wood splitting tourism!
Which Fiskars, the X27 or the 8 pound IsoCore? Either way, check out Mr Gyromudd's how-to video: ruclips.net/video/soOJDRlRUQM/видео.html The technique he's teaching will reduce fatigue and allow you to handle a heavier tool, or a light tool with less effort. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I can break rounds for an hour with either tool. I top out at about four hours with the 30 pounder. It would be difficult to make a two hour youtube video, and I'm sure if I edited it down there would be rampant accusations of misrepresentation... But in practice, when I'm not doing an artificial comparison between tools, I use the 30 pounder for initial splits on really big rounds, and then I finish them up with a smaller tool. Thanks for watching and have fun splitting firewood!
That is a huge maul! Looks like you got quite a bit done.
I'll challenge you to a log splitting contest with my 800 lb maul, I just need to find someone who can swing it first
Thor xD
The 30lb maul is a great tool. But just to save 30 seconds or so I would go with the Fiskars Maul.
same. It is much lighter to lift
Well I learned two things. Get the Fiskars x27 Splitting Axe, and don't mess with this guy because he can kill you with one punch.
His shirt stayed tucked in the whole time
Wer4
Ahoj
I also split firewood but I've never done it with my shirt on.
I just seen this video. My lord son you made my back hurt just watching. I swing a 16lb monster maul here an there when needed. Take care of that back an keep up the great work.
You are right the back, the longs 30 pounds swing if you are 250 to 300 pounds corporal weight and 6,5 tall or taller with muscle!!
Perfect technique on that 30 lbs maul . Straight up centered over your body , let the length of the handle and the weight of the head go the work 👍
Perfect
Thank you, thank you, thank you! People who actually understand firewood splitting technique are few and far between.
Holy crap! I'm impressed! Nice Job on the wood splitting!
Thank you!
Ыыаенншвар
I came for the axe test, but stayed for the feat of strength and endurance. What a champ
Stick around and read the comments too! Sort of a mix of 20% information and 80% pull-your-hair-out frustrating, but entertaining either way I hope! Cheers, thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!!
@@thepowertoact would you care if I “axe” you if you plan on making more content on this channel? I noticed it’s been a little while since you uploaded last and I was kinda bummed. I hope you’re doing alright!
Cheers back to ya
@@Herculesbiggercousin I'd love to make more videos but where is the time? I have a few that I filmed but I'm still editing, and I look a bit younger in them... yes it's been a while but I have more ideas than time, unfortunately. But I'm super busy doing cool stuff, and firewood is a pretty minor part of that. I did split some firewood today though, and aiming to make some time this winter to break a whole lot of rock. Thanks for being a fan, I really appreciate the support!
Вторым вариантом так помохаешь, к вечеру надо скорую помощь вызывать.
The question is really, which one do you really want to use to split for hours? I'd hate to be tired, and get sloppy with that 30# chunk of steel... Hell, my 8# maul becomes less and less fun to use very quickly, that's why I save it for when it's really needed. I do the vast majority of my splitting with 3.5 and 4# axes, lol. (plus the maul I have kinda sux.)
It is a different technique, though. With a maul, you aren't the power behind the blows- just the guidance and lifting system.
Amen brother.
Nice to see a fellow spokesman chop wood like a boss. SALTY ALASKAN RAMBO army here.
I just use an 8lb maul for even my kindling😎🤙
for kindling? why though
@@michaelp.5222 easy....because I can and it's how I have always done it
@@1strangealaskanaloha417 Fair enough mate.
That Fiskars axe I bought a few years ago. Best $60 I ever spent. One or two hit splits with fresh red oak. Absolute beast.
This guy is a beast✊🏾
If you hold your hand out does that 30lb maul come flying towards you?
Nope, but there are plenty of people who can't lift it-- so I hope that goes a little bit towards fulfilling your comic book fantasy! : D
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I also use the Fiskars X27 - BUT my long time composite handle 8 lb maul is still a necessity. Suggest using the Fiskars with side cuts as the Maul will do the most good if a center cut as you seem to realize with the second log and "bouncing" the axe. Otherwise, off-grain and limbs on that size - tough for the axe but that maul is a beast!
Damn son, that's a hell of a maul! Looked like it was kicking your ass. Personally I'd probably go with the Fiskars, take a couple or three more swings without having a freaking heart attack. Locusts is pretty easy to split, you outta try some of this FL live oak, grains all gnarly and twisted, on a lot of this stuff I pretty much gave up on mauls and axes and used wedges and a 12 lb sledge hammer, and some of it I just had to give up and burn it like it is.
Other than for testing what kind of furnace do you have that you cutting long logs like that ?
To be young again...Dame dude nice work
Ain't that the truth
I'll take the x2y or the Fiskars Isocore maul(8lb head). 30lbs is way too heavy for a 64 year old.
God willing, I'll be sufficiently hale at 64 just to watch my kids or grandkids split wood, let alone swing any tools. Hats off to you! Have fun splitting firewood!
Allan Wells at 64 years if you do this good for you man.
I agree. I just started splitting at 65.
It is fun, fascinating and... addicting.
Oh yeah, it is good cardio.
Which reminds me that I need to get a heart monitor like he had on in his first videos.
My first go round with big rounds,
I tried one. Did it.
Next day tried another, then another, then a third.
You get the picture, between the cold weather, dehydration, lack of sleep, stress...I about killed myself over the next two days from way overdoing it!!
Here is my playlist:
Watch "Splitting Firewood With Mauls and Axes" on RUclips
ruclips.net/p/PLsEWVATMY6q35P7vOFoZvqZCfK8sLzZeT
Here is my series on Splitting Firewood:
"Reinventing The Wheels: BOTH Log Splitters and The Jerry:" on RUclips
ruclips.net/video/H-LwOCR5Exs/видео.html
Awesome video brother
Very good brother and great work impressive 👏 👍 👌
You are very strong the power in those swings is insane
Thank you! It's more about coordination than strength-- the weight of the tool is doing most of the work. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
@@thepowertoact thanks mate
Has anyone ever told you that you'd have made an excellent executioner in the bad old days?!
I got a 30 ax and it sits next to the wood stove been thire for years it to talk about not for swinging
that 30 pounder is cool I'd like to have one around just to let the steam out when needed
Thanks! It was fun to make and it's tons of fun to use, even if its real usefulness is essentially limited to huge rounds.
Have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact oh yeah. That thing is overkill for any wood I’d be touching. Those are like 28 inch long logs and aren’t small in diameter either.
brute force serves you well in your 20s and 30s, but as I get older I realize there are a couple of tricks I personally need to use to keep splitting for two or three hours without becoming a cramped up mess for the next 2 days... You're probably not looking for advice given the determination on your face, but even with the X 27 and a 30 pounder, work around the logs after you've made the initial partial split and still standing… That second hit perp. To the first will exert enough pressure the finish the first split and complete second, then you only have to reset the remaining half to split. Larger rounds similar, hit just enough to leave it split but standing, work around it... sounds finicky but i'm more about efficiency in my old age... Keep swings young feller!
+steve r
Around here, that method's called slabbing. Agreed, it works great! I've discussed in other comments that these videos were for demonstration purposes and are not exactly representative of the way I split wood for production purposes... but here's another reason I don't like slabbing: it's mechanically less efficient. Rounds, especially ones weakened by checking, have considerably more tensile strength in the orientation of the slabbing split. So that means you're doing more net work slabbing, although at a considerably lower power output. So if you've got power limitations, slabbing is the way to go!
Briefly, the other reasons I don't like slabbing are that it creates smaller, more unevenly shaped pieces. My job in splitting firewood is to break the big rounds into chunks that somebody can pick up with two hands and load into a truck/trailer/cart, and that my father, kid sister, or brother can easily break apart with the Fiskars or a small maul. So my goal is to make rather large pieces as fast as possible, and that means splitting radially with a massive maul to divide the rounds into halves, quarters, etcetera. But, if I'd had more time and more clear rounds I would've done a slabbing video or two as well. Maybe next winter!
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Where did you buy that 30 in mauler at?
It came out of my brain!
@@thepowertoact homemade I was searching online were to get one lol
Amazing power👌👍
Get a better splitting platform?
What, and then have to touch and lift EVERY single round and put it on the platform? Nah, not for me, and most other people who split lots of firewood by hand split on the ground too. But thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Looks like a good work out. I chose the Fiskars. I have ben useing a couple for a while now. Splitting some big Ash. They work very well.
Get really strong and the big maul will be the way to go
Where do I buy a 30lbs maul?
Make your own! You can send me a direct message and I can send you information on how to do it or how to have it done. Have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact how do you make one?
I used a waterjet saw and angle grinder to cut the plates, and a flux-core welder to weld them together. I used a saw, milling machine, drawknife, and sandpaper to make the handle. There are many alternative methods to do the metalwork and carpentry to get the same result. Feel free to send me a direct message to get the technical drawings for the head, etc.
how did you make the eye?
If you don't have access to a waterjet saw, you could use a plasma cutter or an oxy-acetylene torch to cut the steel plate, including the eye. A milling machine would work too, but it would be more of a pain. If you don't have access to any of these, you could cut the outside of the wedge with an angle grinder and you could drill out the perimeter of the eye with an electric drill or drill press. In the long run it's probably easiest to go to your local metal/welding shop and pay them to cut the metal for your rather than trying that last option, though.
Is that upright form easier on the body? I come from my side which I’m wondering if it will make me unbalanced in terms of strength.
Short answer- if I understand what you mean by my "upright form," then yes, it's MUCH easier on your body, for two big reasons:
-- My technique puts less torque on your lumbar spine, so that means less stress on your lower back.
-- It's biomechanically more efficient, so that means you will get more work done with the same amount of effort.
Swinging around your shoulder (like you seem to be describing) is what most people do. I don't understand why, as it really doesn't offer any advantages... But many people are very resistant to having their woodsplitting form criticized or considering anything other than "their way" of doing things-- so thank you for being open minded and asking about it instead of telling me I'm doing it wrong. (I'm not.) : D
If you read through the comments section on this channel, you'll find plenty conversations I've had discussing my technique for swinging long-handled striking tools... Over on my most recent rock-breaking video I posted a very long and thorough explanation, if you're up for reading a brief dissertation on the topic! (5 pages single spaced...)
I also highly recommend Mr Gyromudd's tutorial on this technique. There are a few things I'd do a little differently, but his video is excellent, particularly in the way that it contains zero ego:
ruclips.net/video/soOJDRlRUQM/видео.html
Welcome aboard, and thanks for watching! Have fun splitting firewood!!
Additionally, as far as your concern about becoming unbalanced in terms of strength-- with either technique, it's important to be able to swing left-handed or right-handed. If you can swing righty and lefty, then switching off will help balance how you develop muscle (if that's a concern for you).
@@thepowertoact I find the way I swing far more effective for me to split wood than straight up like you are doing. but I can see what you say about putting more stress on your back. It’s like a baseball player hitting a ball they all have different stances.
just one time its OK ., but what about everyday ?
How big is your fireplace?
Fireplaces aren't very efficient- we burn in woodstoves. In firebox dimensions, I split for a 23" (F500) Jotul, a 12"x12"x24" Reginald 102, a 20"x16"x26" plate steel stove, and a big ol' Portage and Main outdoor wood boiler.
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact those must be for the boiler ? Too big for anything like a fire place or wood stove
This video was for demonstrating the relative merits of the two tools. I later split the halves into more typical firewood dimensions. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I'm just curious as to why your rounds are so long, 16" is the most I've seen and is pretty standard around here. I am also curious as to why you do not have a large block under what your splitting, like one of those huge rounds of I think it was oak. By the way that oak was impressive, I myself have split oak and it took over 30 swings to crack it, first 20 Just bounced off the top. And have fun splitting firewood!!
Hi there, thanks for watching! And thank you for your questions!
Why the rounds longer than 16"? We have big stoves! We aim for about 22" for the stove those were going into. All other things being equal it's much easier to split shorter rounds, but splitting tools and labor are cheaper than chainsaw consumables and maintenance, so it makes more sense for us to make fewer saw cuts and work a little harder to split the rounds.
Why no splitting block? First off, it doesn't make sense in terms of efficiency of time or effort. It IS true that a splitting block will make the impact more sudden and therefore slightly more effective- it reduces the pressure against the (often soft) ground by spreading out the striking force over a larger area so the round doesn't push into the ground as much, and it also adds mass (and therefore inertia) to what's between the tool and ground on impact. But that's more theoretical than practical. If I had a splitting block, I would have to lift each round onto that block as well as bring each round to the splitting block in the first place, which adds more time and effort. Splitting on a block also imposes the logistical requirement of having a splitting block to begin with, which I frequently don't, so I don't feel like being dependent on one. It's much more convenient for me to spread out the rounds and just split them as they are, without lifting or moving them more than I have to. The same argument applies to splitting with bungee cords or tires. (To split firewood efficiently, what I think about most is how many times I touch the wood. Every time I place a hand on the wood, that's labor that doesn't directly result in split firewood, and every time I lift the wood it's significant mechanical effort that doesn't result in split firewood. So no carrying wood from the pile to a splitting block, and often no stacking it either once it's split. Ideally the process looks like this: fell, limb, and buck the tree, then (1) split all the rounds too large to move by hand on site with a big maul, (2) load the wood into a truck/firewood trailer and (3) unload it in our wood processing area, (4) split the firewood as needed and as it's seasoned well from the pile into the pile using a smaller maul or splitting axe, then (5) load the firewood up and (6) take it to the stoves to burn it. Even so, that's touching/lifting the firewood a minimum of 6 times and often as many as 10 or more.)
Secondly we can look at it from a mechanical perspective. My splitting swing exploits gravity as much as possible. If I raised the round at all, for example by placing the round on a block, I would lose a significant amount of gravitational potential energy. I'd love to get some actual data to support this, but my experience and engineering common sense tell me that the strike energy lost by raising the round on a block is MUCH greater than the energy saved from dissipation by placing the round on a block. (This is also another reason why shorter rounds are easier to split, although the primary reason is just reduced crack area compared to a longer round of equal diameter...)
Third, I'm sufficiently confident in my control over the tool that I'm not very concerned with putting it into the ground and damaging the sharpness of its edge (which is more of a concern with the sharp Fiskars than with Big Bad Bruce, my 30 pound maul-- if you pay attention you can see that I'm much more careful to keep the Fiskars from passing through the round than I am with Big Bad Bruce). This is the main reason why I always start people out splitting on blocks when teaching them- it saves my tools from their mistakes. (The other reason is their own safety- splitting on a block is much more consistent and predictable, and people who are just learning how to split wood don't have the experience necessary to judge how the tool and wood will interact when variables start to change.)
Fourth, a reason that's specific to filming this video is splitting on a block would have introduced more variables, and therefore inaccuracy, into this tool comparison, as well as making the action longer and less continuous. The time it would have taken me to set up the rounds on the block would have made for a less dramatic comparison as well as one that would have been harder for me to post-process and analyze. Sure, I could have started the timer at the beginning of the first swing on each round using a block, but that wouldn't have been as easy or as interesting for me, Moreover, I was comparing these tools as I'd actually use them in practice, so splitting on the ground was appropriately representative of that.
Have fun splitting firewood!
Thanks for the info.
That maul has some authority when it hits those logs. It's just making that happen is where i have the problem lol. Your a tuff dude!!! Ill stick with the ax 😁👍👍👍👍
A bit less authority after log number 100. While the Fiskars should still be going strong(depending on how bad your physical condition is).
Sehr gut....
Der Große Spalthammer ist sehr gut.
Grüße aus Germany Peter
Impressive....now how long your shoulders are gonna last???
Hard work keeps me strong and healthy. : )
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
30 pound maul is for 300 lb men. Or at least young men. At 59 the X27 is just right. But then my kinetic splitter is even better.
I like my grandpas old 10 pounder just fine been using it many year to make a living and can still show youngsters how it's done but prefer my nice new gas splitter now I'm doing 50 cords a winter but hey hats off to you on working that 30 pounder talk about taking initiative good job bud we need more young folk willing to get in and get physical to make a living
Thanks! Me too-- I wish more of my peers got out and learned what physical work is. Manual labor is good for your soul!
10 pounds is a nice weight. I really like my 12 pounder, it's what I use most of the time for medium-sized rounds. And nothing beats the Fiskars for little stuff.
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Who sets use left hands in front or right hands?
I think it depends whether you're naturally right or left handed. However, I've tried to learn the way that feels less natural to me, because sometimes switching hands helps me to strike rounds at angles that are unnatural with my usual swing. Have fun splitting firewood!
nice test!
Man that was impressive, 30 lb maul is way to much for a 65 yr old man. U sir r in great shape.
What do you like better? The X27 or the GIANT maul?
Pipelyon I made the 30 pound maul for quartering rounds. The Fiskars is great for breaking up the pieces after that. If you gave me a pile of rounds smaller than 12 inches (0.3m) in diameter, I'd use the Fiskars pretty much exclusively, although I do have a few other smaller mauls. If I had to use one tool for everything I'd use an Ironton 12 lb maul: www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200621546_200621546 ...it's no Sotz maul, but it's better than the other Sotz clones that have short handles and tend to break along the head-handle weld.
For rounds this size, I'd only break out Big Bad Bruce if I wanted extra exercise. It's a little overkill on effort, although it doesn't get stuck as much as the Fiskars. Thanks for watching!
interesting to see even with the 30 pound it still took 2 0r 3 swings .I thought that beast would have got it in one .good comparison heavy weight but fewer swings ,lighter weight more swings .......i''m 50 next year think i'll stick with my 8lb roughneck maul .Thanks for posting .Take care .
Thanks! A lot of it has to do with accuracy. I'm not as accurate with the 30 pound maul as I am with the Fiskars, and that matters more on these little rounds. If my aim were perfect, I think maybe half of the rounds would have split in one hit with the 30 pound maul. However, accuracy is a legitimate part of the comparison, and one clear disadvantage of increasing tool weight is decreasing the agility of my swing. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
30 lb maul price?
At large-scale production, maybe $150 or even under $100, depending on how large-scale we're talking about. For small-scale production $250 would be about breaking even. What would you pay for one?
no kettle bell for this dude
My guy bustin that timber....good work bubba.
Nothing like spending a day at the maul with 30 lbs of coupons.
I just learned something, find a tool rental shop and get a gas powered log splitter!
If you're paying for all that gas, why not just heat your house with oil? This is appropriate technology. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appropriate_technology Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
I used to do that regularly ,but i guarantee the time will come when like like me ,your back will give in, and i was very fit, get yourself a hydraulic log splitter,it makes good sense.
Oh, I surely do already have a hydraulic splitter. It's slow, loud, and less fun... Great for the stuff I can't split by hand, though!
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Good job sir! I am about to buy the x27 and the fiskars maul (8lb)
Thank you! I love both of those tools, both will serve you well.
Have fun splitting firewood!
the wood was green or seasoned?
As I wrote in the description, these are "black locust logs cut from a live tree a month ago." Have fun splitting firewood!
Nice video. But why you're trying to split those logs from the middle? I can bet you do not trying to rip up any kind of wrapping from the middle. It is just harder than do it from the ends. Also I'm sure you were doing splitting not the first time. So you had to notice that fact by yourself.
This video is a demonstration, not a tutorial. I judged it a fairer comparison of splitting performance to halve the rounds instead of slab them.
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Cool video but I'll take my 8 lb Trupper splitting maul. That 30 lber had some splitting power but nobody could swing it all day. I can swing my 8 lb maul several hours.
I can work with that 30 pound maul at a steady pace (not a sprint like this) for about four hours at a time. Breaks come naturally from picking up all the pieces in between rounds, and I switch to a lighter tool once I've broken up the rounds a bit. I wouldn't normally use Big Bad Bruce on little stuff like this, though; he's meant just for breaking up large diameter rounds. I split this oak in three days with these tools:
ruclips.net/video/tfhylr3sNng/видео.html
For endurance, try the Fiskars X27 if you haven't already. It's a beautiful tool for minimizing effort splitting through small diameter clear rounds. And in general, in my experience it often works as well as larger mauls but with less effort and more control.
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Great job!
How tall are you?
I'm not!
Now ya gotta quarter them! If your not looking for a total workout. Use a mini sledge hammer to drive the wedge through once it bites into to wood. Less energy used to get same result.
Yeah, I think I took those rounds into sixths before they went in the stove... and using a 4 lb sledge to drive wedges would definitely work, but it would be slow slow slow (and a lot less fun). Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood--- with your dinky hammer. : )
Straight grain locust is one of the easiest woods to split this guy's in good shape no doubt but I know from the size of the maw's he hes at maximum 5'8" and maybe 170 tops and he would do way better with a good Axe more speed on the fall way less work I been splitting wood for 25+years by hand and a good Axe is always better than a mawl
All i can think is there are better uses for locust than fire wood
First hit thought he was gonna split his axe instead😂
Я такого Большого колуна не видел никогда!
Lol the mic on whatever you are using to video must be very good. I thought the camera man was getting hot and bothered watching you work. That was you breathing so heavy.
Ești tare și ești tiner dar cine are PUTERE să spargă lemne cu toporul - ciocan ? 👍🇦🇩
id rather have the fiskars any day I recently had one of my trees cut down and its so good to have
If I had to pick one or the other I'd pick the Fiskars, especially for stuff this size. Fortunately, I can have both. I wouldn't normally use my 30 pound maul on rounds this size, but I like to use it to break apart really large rounds. Have fun splitting firewood!
30 POUND !!! HOLY MACKEREL .....
You are a wood chopping god. I wish I had form like this, haha!!
Thanks for the compliment! But I'm nobody. Get lots of practice, talk to folks who know more than you do, and always reflect on how you could do it better. Work hard yet don't forget to have fun while you're at it!
Ja
Я русский, у нас колят дрова обычно зимой. Тест считаю неверным, потому что 30 фунтовым колуном дольше 10 минут не поработаешь. У нас говорят "Тише едешь - дальше будешь". На большой дистанции, 7-8 часов, фискарс разгромно выиграет, потому что тролльский колун слишком тяжел и имеет смещённый центр тяжести, работать им без вреда для здоровья невозможно
Great job. Keep the videos comming. Enjoying the comments, suddenly everybodys an expert. I would like to see any of the nay sayers do exactly what you did in this video anywhere near the timeframe. All the best for the year ahead
Thank you- glad you enjoyed the comments! More videos? Plenty in my head ready to go, but getting them filmed and edited is another thing. Got a lot going on these days.
Have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact yes definatly more videos. Good to see a man do honest work and not the crap bullshit most people put on here. People will always be interested. In the real deal. Lots to cover. Axe shape. Weight. Wood types preferences. Not to mention stacking drying techniques. Chainsaws whole other topic lol
Sorry to disappoint, but most of the videos I have plans for have nothing to do with splitting firewood. But hopefully you'll find them interesting anyway!
thepowertoact no problem. Im sure i will
Man i love that 30 pounder, i think i might make one soon....
I intend to do a production run of just the heads this winter, maybe just 20 or 25 pounds though. Slightly modifying the design as well. Cost is going to be about $250 plus shipping. Let me know if you'd like to buy one. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact i wouldnt be able to afford one of those lol, but i think it would be awesome if i made my own so i could say " I made my own splittin maul", but thanks anyway man, and i ALWAYS have fun splittin wood😃
Talk is cheap, but metalwork is not. I hope you do make your own version of my maul -and please post a video if you do!- but in doing so you will likely find that materials, labor, and machine time will cost you on that same order of magnitude if you make one as good as mine. Admittedly I built some profit into that estimate, and you could certainly compromise on quality in your build to make it cost less... go for it! I'd be flattered, and I'm excited to see your result.
Should run this test on sweet gum.
I am not a senior master of the timber yards, but I would say, that Fiskars makes ultimate quality axes..! Here in Finland where these axes are made I have had a privilege to deal with several items from Light versions to heavy duty splitting models. A little lighter piece in my opinion is the best for few hour spitting session. 2kg/4,4 lbs in weight and about 70 cm/28 inc long model Will do all the manual effort needed..! Of course I can not say how it is in America where the smallest firewood timber is ginormous in finnish scale... But the guys doing all that woodcutting seen for example in you tube seem to be very agressive in my opinion - and like doing all that for show business and experimental speed practice..!? But Its all different here, where we have a log about 15 inches too thick for moto or chainsaw to take down to be effective for the business🤭 In America that measurement- I think-- would be maybe the thickness of a slightly bigger branch at some point😊
Thanks for watching and commenting! The European perspective is fascinating-- you're absolutely right that the paradigm for firewood is totally different over there. The Fiskars splitting axe was born in European woodlots, and small diameter stuff like that is really what it does best. And you're right that over here we have much larger trees to split for firewood-- it would be better to turn these big trees into lumber, but at least they get used!
dude put the maul near you knee then swing it up and over your head pulling it down hard when you hand meets your other hand it works way better and way more force in your swing
Hi there! Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure what technique you're describing, but if you mean a fast "golf" swing, a roundhouse sweep around your side and shoulder- no amount of splitting force is worth the torque which that sort of swing puts on your lower back... (Also, I would mathematically/biomechanically contest the claim that a swing like that actually does impart all that much more force than my technique.)
If you mean the low lumbar torque method of keeping the tool handle in the plane of your body, keeping your back straight, starting the swing by keeping your hand at the center-of-mass then bending your knees and using the muscles in your legs to drive the tool head up as high as possible, shifting your grip and then using your whole body to pull it straight down into the round, leaning back and flicking your wrists at the end of the stroke- well, that's what I thought I was doing...
Please keep contributing to the discourse! Maybe explain a little more clearly what you mean, or link to a video which illustrates your technique?
Most importantly, have fun splitting firewood!
I user fiscars axe and its not bad but it could use some more weight
The 8 pound Fiskars IsoCore maul is a nice tool, but what's really amazing about it is the extent to which Fiskars listened to the criticisms of the X27 and then made a tool that addressed pretty much every one of those criticisms... you should check it out!
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
@@thepowertoact so ı should check x27 right
Fiskars Isocore 8 pound maul:
www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/IsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36
Да,вот так помашешь таким топором (колуном) денёк,не то что руки и ноги с непривычки протянешь...
Я бы выбрал Fiskars для повседневной работы, да.
Спасибо за просмотр!
Not trying to be rude...REALLY what was the purpose of this? The x27 is a "splitting ax" at 6lb and the maul was 30lb. Would it have been somewhat better to compare the Fishkar 2x 8lb maul? The outcome the 30lb maul was thirty seconds faster. I believe if the 2x was used the outcome would have been the same.
Tip: A common mistake on RUclips, TikTok, etc videos is setting the proper font level to be able to read your message over your video. I worked in television broadcasting for over thirty years. I am offering this tip as a suggestion for your future videos. 🪓🪓🪓
I would love that 30 pounder for busting up some elm. That thing was a fuckin' beast!
Don't know how it would fare on elm, that's a pretty tough wood. The wide wedge and mass help a lot with stringy woods though, so I imagine it might do better than most. If you're serious about wanting a maul like this, your local welder could definitely make one for you!
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting that elm!
Damn, I wouldn't even be able to lift that huge maul above my head without falling backwards from the weight of it! LOL But then again, I'm a woman, so I'll just stick to my Fiskars X27, thank you. :) Pretty happy with it. ;)
Cheers, was a very interesting video to be honest.
Ps: preparing myself to split almost 2000 kilo's of freschly cut down green pinewood. Been hauling those +20kilos logs back and forth from our neighbor to my house for two days now, and let me tell you: the pain is very real! So I might be considering to wait a few days before attacking those logs with my ax, otherwise the painkillers won't help anymore. LOL
Thanks for the interest in my video! Yes, the X27 is a fantastic tool.
Have fun splitting firewood! (And I hope you stayed warm and had plenty of fun too with that pine this winter!)
I think you could get a better time with the 30 lb if it had a C shape instead of a [
Concave or convex C-shape? Convex would help prevent it from sticking in the wood, concave would help it split better. My design for a second one isn't quite concave, but it's sharper at the tip. Personally, what I think would make the biggest difference is improved accuracy with the 30 pounder. It's so heavy that I have a hard time aiming it... go figure. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Tbh I would like to see both but it doesnt have to be a speed run like this video right now my setup is that little axe you where using in this video but it has been getting stuck in a lot of the hard woods and I gotta use my bfh and smack it through which is already the same size as that bigger axe you was using I was planning on getting one which is why I'm asking convex is the way i was gonna go cause its prob gonna need a lot of sharpening but I've never worked with a concave you peeked my interests. I was gonna buy a 50lb bfh and just sharpen one side I didn't know that they had bigger splitters. Ty
splitting wood is all about how energy you can produce, speed of swing to weight ratio. on that size wood i would guarantee i could split all those in 60 seconds withe the fiskars. the 30 pound mauls takes to much energy to swing if you were going to do it steady.
+Kayla Johnson Big Bad Bruce is meant for much larger rounds; this was a comparison out of its normal range of use. It's edifying and interesting to see how and why it outperforms the Fiskars in this comparison, but the video isn't meant to suggest that the 30 pound maul is a more appropriate tool for small rounds. Did you read the analysis in the description?
"While the 30 pound maul technically wins this race, the Fiskars or a traditional maul is a more appropriate tool for logs this small. Over the course of an entire woodpile, the low weight of Fiskars would reduce fatigue sufficiently to give it a distinct advantage for most people."
Have fun splitting firewood!
Ok you’re hired
Si no lo llamaban a comer al tipo que hizo el Acha hasta ahora le seguía mandando hierro .para 8 horas de trabajo en rajar troncos es una mole eso . Imponente el vídeo
Gracias y gracias por mirar! Diviértete partiendo leña!
Well I didn't have fun splitting the firewood, but I must say you excel in that department.
Also was a bit relieved to see someone stronger than me having a problem or two with knots. I mean it's not only the matter of technique. Sometimes you just need to get over them with pure brainless force.
I see that ( just like by me) at times axe just bounced back like ball on knotty logs, that's a real test for hands amortisation. My elbow says Fiskars has better solution od this problem than traditional maul producers.
Heretic! Shun the heretic!
HAVE FUN splitting firewood!
Damn it, I hoped you won't end your reply in the same way...
Actually I wrote this mainly to see what will you come up with.
I guess I failed miserably. You even used Caps, damn it!
😀 😄
Con ese tipo de leña si , con otro seguro que te reventadas . Si los cortas por la mitad se abriría mucho más facil
¿Cortarlos por la mitad con la motosierra? ¡De ninguna manera, soy demasiado vago para eso! : P
¡Gracias por mirar y diviértete partiendo leña!
Красавчик.!!! Мне 58 лет. И я часто клоуном люблю работать!!!
Why in the hell would you have a 30 lb Maul.
Because it's fun! And sometimes it's more effective.
Thanks for watching! Have fun splitting firewood!
Look i see you bro your a beast but ive been watching all these wood splitting videos and i see one thing in common. Your just splitting them once there should be q new youtube rule for setting personal best splitting. The rule is: 4 peices. Every round should be no more than 16 inches tall and gotta be split into atleast 4 peices. Like real firewood peices. Usually i go 5 or 6 but just for youtube it should be atleast 4. Are you with me?
That is not how you split black locust. Just Whittle around the edges. He did it the hard way.
Really, you think so? You would try to slab a round that isn't even a foot in diameter? I would never try to slab something this small, it just doesn't make sense, even on a wood that isn't locust...
Breaking a 10" round radially into sixths will make some nice, regular firewood sticks, especially if it's a straightgrained hard wood like locust. Quarters will make heftier pieces. Slabbing is going to make some weird shaped, irregular pieces and, I'm pretty sure, not get your round into the woodpile any faster...
But hey, maybe you know something I don't. Care to elaborate?
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
Way more effective with the fiskars that maul looks cartoonish and ridiculously heavy to handle i have some videos up of me splitting green locust and green oak check them out if your would like thanks
Hi there Matt, thanks for watching and commenting! Yep, I made the 30 pound maul mostly just for fun to see what the biggest maul I could use was, so cartoonish is a good word for it. It's definitely not the tool of choice on these little rounds, but on large diameter clear rounds it breaks them apart faster than wedges. It's most effective on clear oak and poplar rounds about 3 feet in diameter.
I took a look at your videos-- good for you for splitting on the ground! That requires good control over the tool to do right, and you look like you're in good control. I don't think splitting in a tire is that helpful though-- instead of the tire, if you just stand all your rounds up on the ground so that they're just barely not touching each other, then you can get the same benefit that the tire provides without having to move the rounds into the tire and move the tire around (plus you don't need a tire). I wonder why you're choosing the X25 over the X27 though... the longer the handle, the more mechanical advantage you can exploit by raising the tool as high as possible before bringing it down (longer handle means you can lift it higher). I wonder if it's because you put the head of the tool behind your shoulders when you're raising it up to swing. Putting the tool behind your head like that offers no mechanical advantage (and it actually greatly increases the strain on your back) and it's harder and harder to do as the handle of the tool gets longer. If you check out how I lift both the X27 and Big Bad Bruce, you'll see that I'm lifting them up straight up in the air as high as they'll go, then bringing them down as hard and fast as possible, and never letting the head of the tool go behind my head/shoulders. There's a good wikihow tutorial on this technique of firewood splitting, and there's also a good tutorial video by Mr Gyromudd here on youtube about it. I can find the links for you if you'd like.
Again, thanks for watching! Have fun splitting firewood!
На заднем плане лопата и экскаватор для сравнения в следующем ролике
Вы шутите, но на самом деле это очень похоже на то, о чем мое следующее видео. : )
Any knots and the big boy will struggle to go through. With that smaller one you spilt arround the outside.
Also how tired are you from swinging that big boy all day.
Eh, kind of. The big guy does reasonably well powering through knots, though what I made it for was quickly breaking up large clear rounds faster than using wedges-- and it does that very well, though accuracy is a challenge. I call splitting around the edges "slabbing," and I'd rather not slab rounds unless I really have to: 1) it's slower 2) it's mechanically less efficient 3) it makes uglier and less regular sticks of firewood. I'd also never try to slab rounds this small in diameter. As long as you CAN quarter the rounds, it's almost always faster to split them down that way. For a big oak round (two feet in diameter or larger) it's very difficult to make the initial halving split radially with a small tool like the Fiskars (I made some other videos on that). My 12 pound Sotz clone works fine, but it often takes quite a few hits. So that's why I made the 30 pound maul-- to break up those big rounds. These videos were not me trying to show the world how to split firewood, but instead trying to compare the physics of these two very different tools under the same circumstances... but a lot of people seem not to understand that. Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
@@thepowertoact Cheers mate.
I'm from New Zealand, we don't really get a huge amount of straight timber. Splitting something so long here would be an exception to the rule. Espically the native trees, they are bloody good burning but hard as hell.
@@roilhead These locust rounds are unusually long for the USA, too. The differences in species of wood are very hard to address online... I'd love to travel the world and do some wood splitting tourism!
@@thepowertoact Anything dangerous in your bag sir? Only a big bad ass kicking axe mate. Lol
Cut those logs in half and get an extra 16 inches of swing or so.
Nice vid! And I'm over here like.........dam* this fiskars is too heavy!! I'm 22.
Which Fiskars, the X27 or the 8 pound IsoCore? Either way, check out Mr Gyromudd's how-to video:
ruclips.net/video/soOJDRlRUQM/видео.html
The technique he's teaching will reduce fatigue and allow you to handle a heavier tool, or a light tool with less effort.
Thanks for watching, and have fun splitting firewood!
thepowertoact Ha ha. The X27. Thanks I will check it out!
zmęczyłem się, od samego patrzenia
Паравоз такими дровами топит?
Это для булерьяна,само то,тож такие заготавливаю
Better test: How much wood can you split in one hour 😅
I can break rounds for an hour with either tool. I top out at about four hours with the 30 pounder. It would be difficult to make a two hour youtube video, and I'm sure if I edited it down there would be rampant accusations of misrepresentation... But in practice, when I'm not doing an artificial comparison between tools, I use the 30 pounder for initial splits on really big rounds, and then I finish them up with a smaller tool. Thanks for watching and have fun splitting firewood!
the second one will make you get tired very fast
Impressive
Thank you, and thanks for watching! Have fun splitting firewood!
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