Adjustable Brake Pedal Pushrod in a 1966 Mustang
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- I have noticed for a while now that the travel distance of the brake pedal in my car is not as far as it should be. The push rod (or pushrod) doesn't seem to be long enough for my setup. In this video I dig in to find out why it's this way.
The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.
Credit for the music in the video:
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#Mustang
#1966
Love the fact that you had all the issues I’m having now! Love your videos… thanks for the content!
The problem is I have a lot of issues, I just can't run the camera every day. :)
Your videos have addressed issues I have had on my car. Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
Any vids you'd like to see that I haven't done yet?
No kidding. Every time I move to the next project I come to this channel to see how it’s done. Great job documenting!
i have a similar issue on my 49 studebaker ,all drum brakes . master does not completely release and brake drums overheat then lock up . i did have to change my push rod when i completely redid my restoration of my brakes . when i did that i did make an adjustable push rod to do what you did, when i got this car it did not have a master cylinder . this has been a true trial and error process. i think i may be able to tweek rod length to correct my locking up issue . every thing is new shoes to master . this has been driving me silly. thanks
Great video. Looking forward to hearing how it performed.
You and me both!
There is supposed to be plastic bushings for the brake pedal. One that goes inside the eye on the pushrod and 2 flat spacers that sandwich the pushrod and switch. They might fix that last little bit of slop you had in the pedal.
I was just about to comment the same thing lol, beat me to it haha
Correct, I had to replace that little white piece on my first '66, but I forgot all about it until you mentioned it. However, the "slop" I had in my peddle movement would not have been solved by that piece, but it would have helped. In the end I would have still needed to make the push rod longer to get the peddle to sit flush with the clutch peddle. Now, whether or not those peddles are supposed to be flush is another discussion. :)
That's good to hear there's more people out there that know about this little parts. :)
Yes sir Ernie! Two little plastic white ones and a black plastic bushing for the eyelet of the push rod outside facing to driverside..
Getting closer to 1000 subscribers!!! Thanks for the tool set. It arrived today.
Thanks! 1000 is getting closer every day!
Awesome, I was hoping you'd get it before the weekend. Congrats again on the win!
Just finished my 1965 convertible and am having the same issues when I added the power brakes real short travel. going to try this tonight thanks for the informative video
Awesome, good luck!! 🙂
I would try another option and cut the loop off the old rod, tap it to the correct thread pitch and screw that into the new rod. Just spit balling. Thanks for the great vid!
That might work, I don't know. This is an old video, and I've upgrade lots of parts since then. :)
I have the same problem with my 66. I believe your fix will work for me also. Thanks for the vids.
Awesome, I hope this helps! Other issues I'm still working with is the brake bias valve, possibly needing to re-bleed (just in case), and wondering if the 1" MC I purchased from CJ Pony is the size I should have, or get a smaller unit. But, that's ok, we're checking items off the list!!
Great video im in the same boat and this was perfect thanks much
Great! 😁
I had the same issue on my 66. I bought a new adjustable rod and it was also too short, at full length it was the same length as my original. I cut the eye off my original and threaded the shaft, this made it plenty long enough to do the job.
See, we sort of did the same thing to get essentially the same final result. There's always more than one way to fix issues with our cars. Congrats!
Fyi, the original rod if you cut off the end that goes into the master right where it angles into a bigger diameter, the bigger diameter is the right size to thread it 3/8-24 and gives plenty of length to cut down until brake pedal is good.
Good to know. :)
FYI, Leed Brakes out of Buffalo , Ny has a good selections of Masters and bore sizes and won't cost you $250 for a Wilwood. Just recieved mine for Ford Mustang, Manual brakes Disc/Drum and a 15/16" bore for better line pressure.
I'll keep that in mind as I work through replacing parts on my new car. :)
Hello and thanks for your video. I had the same issue on the push rod. I have a question. I installed manual disc brakes on my 65 and hoped for a major change. It was some better but not huge. Did you ever get the change you hoped for?
I don't know of an improvement of manual brakes over power brakes in terms of performance. I prefer the feel of manual brakes and the "feedback" they give as I use them during spirited driving. :)
Great, thanks for all the info
No problem!
Have you had any issues or concerns with the bolt you used not being graded steel?
No, but I wouldn't anyways because a graded bolt matters in tension and shear, not compression, which is the stress the Pushrod sees when being used. :)
Had same issue with my 66 when I switched out the single bowl master cylinder with a 67 dual bowl.
I think my biggest issue was the bracket that was installed between the MC and the firewall moved the MC out the subtlest amount, making it a farther throw than normal. :)
Folks there's a very good reason there is suppose to be retaining seal on the end of that pushrod. If the master cylinder ever sticks when its pushed in and that rod comes out......well you guys can figure out the rest. FYI.
Good to know.
I sure wished you would of driven it and came back and tell us if it made it a lot better than just leaving us to guess? 🤔
Taking up the slack in the pedal does not improve braking, therefore nothing to report. I could have left it and it would have been the exact same experience on the road. I just didn't like how the clutch pedal and brake pedal were not sitting on the same plane. :)
Did it fix the braking issue for you? I just installed a wilwood front disc conversion on my 65 and noticed the pedal is still squishy, I think there's still air in the lines but figured I'd check pushrod length anyways
It did fix part of the issues I'm having. But I also only have my newish truck and newish Wife's car for braking comparison right now, so they could be fine for all I know. The peddle travel is better, that's for sure. I may still need to re-bleed the system (just in case) and I've still got to figure out the distribution valve and make sure I'll got it dialed to the correct front/rear split.
Dealing with the brakes would you know what master cylinder to use for manual discs all around?
I’m having a hard time finding one
Thanks, Simon
After using the generic MC from CJP for nearly a year now, I'd choose a different product next time. In fact, I've had my eyes on a Wilwood MC to replace what I have. I like the fact that it's the same manufacturer as my disc setup, but I also like the compact design and the brake adjustment option when compared to what I have. I'd check out Wilwood, maybe even hit up their customer service and ask them what bore size would be good for your setup. You may want a 15/16" bore, but I bet the Wilwood guys would know exactly what you need. Good luck! :)
Thanks! I’ll call them up!
I would be concerned about the hardness of the bolt you cut up. Was it just a random bolt from the hardware store? How strong is it? Could it snap or bend? Not things you want from a braking system. Also the "roundness" of the end you ground off. Not being smooth is either going to wear the bolt or the master cylinder piston. I would have gone for option one.
Could you have moved the proportioning valve bracket on the other side of the master cylinder mount?
The bolt is harder than the push rod that was in there. I looked into moving the bracket, but the bracket didn't fit as well on the "engine" side of the MC as it did behind the MC (the firewall side). Eventually I want to replace all of that stuff with a Wilwood MC and separately mounted proportioning valve. This would allow for the stock push rod to go back in place. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Sounds good. Great job!
I would have thought you needed that grove at the end of the rounded rod... like that little grove before the rounded shaft... But I guess not. Only need a rounded point to push on the master...
I believe the part you are referring to helps keep the push rod inside the master cylinder and not allow it to fall out. With the adjusted length of the new push rod, the end of the rod is bottomed out in the MC, sort of eliminating the need for the clippy-thing on the end. Now, if that's the right way to do it is a different conversation. ;)
Will you paint your MC?
Someone could paint there MC if they wanted, but my current MC is already painted. 🙂
So did it help with the performance of the brakes? Thanks a bunch
Very subtly. The rod length needed to be extended because the plate for the brake bias adjustment unit moved the M.C. away from the firewall, making the push rod not long enough. So in the end it was better, but talking to Wilwood afterwards solved the majority of my braking problems. I needed to add their 10 lb residual valve since I'm using disc fronts and drum rears. For the record, those guys at Wilwood are great to work with. I explained my problems and they had several solutions and they were happy to give that info to me. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Awesome. I will give them a shout. I just put wilwood discs on the front of my 66 and the performance was a bit of a fizzle compared to the drums. I was a bit surprised, I was expecting more. I also have the slop in the brake pedal and it sits lower to the floor just like yours, thats why I was so curious. Thanks for the response! I really enjoy your videos, they have helped me tons while I have been rebuilding. You just got a sub from me! Keep it up
@@judoguy33 Awesome, thanks for the feedback!
I suspect you're having the same issue as I did. I'd give Wilwood a call first, just to make sure. Naturally they'll want to sell their products, but their knowledge surrounding our cars and the functionality of the disc upgrade is second to none. At a very minimum you'll come away with some great knowledge. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel " I needed to add their 10 lb residual valve since I'm using disc fronts and drum rears" Would you mind elaborating on this? I am working through this sloppy break pedal issue as well. I had a local place do my disc upgrade, I suspect CJ Pony parts, however I hated them and swapped for Wilwoods rotor and calipers but still have the crap MC & power booster. Thank you. Your video's are very helpful, like the dad I never had.
@@jmac1975 The MC should be sized for the brake system you have (3/4" or 7/8" bore kind of thing) to make sure you start off on the correct foot. I don't know which size you need for your application, but the guys at Wilwood can help with that. Then, if you're finding that the MC is correct but the rear drum brakes don't seem to do enough work, you can add the 10 lb residual valve that aids with the pressure the rear drums will see. The guys at Wilwood can explain this better than me, but that's the highlight reel. :)
Where did you get the new pushrod?
It was a universal style piece, from Ebay. Unfortunately I don't have a part number for it. :)
Put a 1/2 in. Slug in there and udjust as necessary.
Slugs are kinda squishy, not sure they're work. :)
good video [annoying music]
Yeah, it's not for everyone. :)