I want to clear up some confusion. When I put the borescope down the cylinder, I thought there was a hole in the piston but then I started second guessing it since I couldn't see that well. That is why I keep diagnosing it after that point.
Jesse firstly great content as always. After seeing the injector on 1 then once you bore scoped it I knew what happened. Injector started to spray a bad pattern which over heated the precombustion chamber causing it to fall out of the head. I would highly suggest having all of the injectors tested at the least if not replace them. I would suggest either D&W in Latham, Ny or metro fuel in Mass
@@gregolson1824yes I may even just get new injectors, they are not that expensive. I had called d+w as soon as I saw the nipple on the end gone. They had one in stock.
Brother I can say I’ve saw this once before that’s the glow plug chamber and it’s because too much starting fluid is used too quickly and it made small but powerful explosions in the glow plug chamber blew plug out into your cylinder and the plug got beat into the piston and caused a hole into the piston looks like the piston was coming back down from tdc when it occurred because the intake valve has the damage. Great video keep them coming.
First Class Diesel Mechanic, First Class Carpenter, First Class Plumber, First Class Heating Engineer, First Class Electrician, First Class Plant Operator, First Class Concrete Finisher, First Class Septic System Installer, First Class House Builder. I reckon that’s first class. What a skilful young man.👍🥳
When you pulled the dipstick that said it all. It was expecting to see either a cracked piston or burnt through the ring lands. For the swirl chambers to break up it was probably a bad spray pattern or it ran on it's own oil at some point. Be careful with the kids playing with tools around batteries. He was seconds away from a life changing injury. Looking forward to part 2
While you have the radiator and engine out consider drilling some small drain holes in the skid plate. There was alot of water inside. Keep up the good work. Fun video!
Very much enjoy your trouble-shooting and abilities. I have to say the coolest part of your video is getting to see a patient dad with his two sons and how cool is it that they have a dad with the best toys and that can teach them how to use them and fix them. And also to be a patient dad with kids of their own. Looking forward to more "Fixing the Iron" videos.
I know the work is more important than making a video, but I think you have one of the most interesting videos and would like to see them more often, if you can.
I think the way it was constructed with the closed bottom and the massive firewall is caused by the single arm design, cutting the bottom will result in loss of rigidity. For the fallen out chamber cover, I would lean to a ether over-use, causing thermal expansion... Thx for showing and looking forward to part 2... 👍👍👍
My roommate has the larger JCB version of this, and its a tank. We use it around the property for everything and haven't had any issues yet. These are pretty solid machines
You can use the head as a template to make a lifting plate to pull the engine! I’m learning from you my friend, all I can teach is how to make a lifting plates to pull it out! Thanks for sharing Jesse, Kirk from Louisiana sending prayers and good vibes my friend! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I’m sorry to say but that’s why I don’t care for JCB equipment, I just haven’t seen too many known operators running JCB equipment! I see most of them in other countries! 🤷🏼 I hope you get her running like a top brother, good luck Jesse! I still enjoy watching, I just hate seeing you having to fight with it! At least you’re able too! You’re a pretty good mechanic from what I’ve seen my friend, very knowledgeable! I’m a retired Welder but I’m learning from you brother! I know others are learning as well!👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Love the video. As a Brit I hope you manage to fix this machine and get many years of usage out of it. JCB backhoes pretty much built this countries infrastructure in my lifetime.
Jesse, Great video. Loved being here to watch you dig into this problem. Look forward to seeing the next videos in this series to see what else you find. I also love watching you interact with your kids. My dad was a lot like you, and he had me out there with him all of the time. I learned a lot from just watching him - until the time he realized that I could do much of the repair - then, he handed me a wrench and said, "Get Busy!"
Jesse, if I were independently wealthy and had a lot of free time on my hands, I would consider taking on a task like this. However, I'm not and don't have very much free time. I would have to pass. For you're sake, I admire your tenacity and patience.
The cherry on top of your videos is your kids. I didn't think I've seen kids this natural since way back before I ever saw TV. It also seems they watch you close enough to ask relative questions. I a few short years yer gunna gave a couple of great helpers!
Cant isnt a word 💪 you are not just another hot shot youtuber, you actually work on your projects, and finish them. I also like the patient way, you are with the Kids.
Hello ! I think that the stable welded base plate is structurally necessary because the load distribution due to the side arm would otherwise destabilize the entire structure!! You just have to accept that the engine has to come out upwards when an engine is repaired!!
I've heard of over generous use of starter fluid that was suspected of causing damage in a few engines, maybe that's what happened inside that cylinder's pre-combustion chamber, liberating the pressed insert from the head and onto the piston. I guess it will be extremely difficult at this stage to be sure of the root cause of the issue. Looking forward to part two, when you pull the engine/pump without cutting an access hole in the bottom of the frame.
1. They ran it out of fuel. 2. They attempted to bleed, bypassed fuel pump. 3. They filled the intake with starting fluid when not cranking (probably one guy alone) then: 4 BAM! BLEW IT UP. send the head to a QUALIFIED machine shop. Pull the motor, disassemble, BORE IT OUT., reassemble. You are way ahead of the game money wise.
We have a 1999 JCB 804 trac-hoe (mini) with a 3 cylinder Perkins and that engine has been fantastic. 3100 hours and running great..just keep up with normal maintenance.
The fact that the shrapnel went through the rest of the engine Jesse is an unfortunate situation requiring a total tear down as everything will have suffered from overall contamination the same as when an oil cooler goes, but this is metal eating metal and possibly restricting Oil circulation as well, she's a surgical 100% deal, best would be a engine replacement, you'll have to weigh the costs and risks you're comfortable with if it's a long term unit investment ,doing it twice is a bitter pill to swallow this we all know. Best wishes as always, thanks for sharing.
Old saying buy used buying someone elses troubles.. Enjoy watching you fixes these used equipments but feel for you on all the man hours. Good luck Jess..
My lands you are a fearless man. Your confidence in your abilities is something to envy and to work toward. God be with you on this one. I will be watching.
That tool shelf on the left, is called a battery. Aprox 180 CCA, of spark, melt wrenches, and fire. Looks like 2 m13 nuts is all to remove it and make the job much safer. Plus more work space.
Wow jess.. one hell of a mechanic and problem solver... this is going to be a great vid for your veiwers.. I've watched only the first 30 mins and lessons are learnt. Thank you master Muller🙏
I'm not sure it relates... but I once had the tip of an injector break off and I didn't even get my truck stopped before it had put a hole in my piston. I'm not sure how that chamber popped loose... but once you get a little piece of very hard metal rattling around in the combustion chamber all sorts of carnage can happen. Like you didn't have enough going on... MAN! I'm going to love watching you fix this... but I feel for you bud. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.
So I have the larger brother to this the 190t. I’ve found that these first generation robots weren’t that common around here. Very little to no information on parts or service manuals online. Very little to no aftermarket parts options unfortunately. I only have run mine but I find that the controls are pretty slow compared to other machines but it does have plenty of power. My machine only has 916 hours on it and i need to do the main loader arm bushings on it which I’m dreading. I also have a Perkins engine but mine isn’t turbocharged but for $10,000 I can’t complain about it at all. Belonged to a very close friend and I bought it from his estate. He had repossessed it and bought it from the bank when it was roughly 4 years old with around 700 hours on it. He owned it roughly 12 years and only put 200 hours on it which honestly probably 100 of them was me using it 😂. The 12 years of just sitting around made one of the injector body’s rot out and it had a massive fuel when I got it. Still needs a seat I’m too cheap to buy one 😂. the second thing i had to do when I bought it was replace both rear idlers for the tracks. The bushings were so worn that the idlers were touching the sprockets. Overall having only put a few thousand into it and being all in at roughly $13000 for a track machine with 9xx hours I could probably turn around and flip it for double what I paid but had more sentimental value to me now that i couldn’t
Yea i noticed the controls are a little weird. I thought they might have been electronic but I checked and they are pilot. I guess slow would be describe them. I love my Gehl ctl60, everything about it is real nice. I think if I keep this one it will only be because of the side door. Other than that I would sell it in a heartbeat after fixing it
@@jmuller86 to be completely honest I think the side door is cool and all but I still find myself going in and out of the machine from the front. I have larger tracks on my machine and i think it’s a bit awkward stepping on them The wheeled machines it looks like it’s way easier to get in and out
Love that Noah realized that watching RUclips was less interesting than watching dad work. I guess watching dad work is a bit like watching RUclips live, now that I think about it.
HEY JESSE, SOMETHING WE USE TO USE A LOT WHEN REBUILDING BOAT MOTORS WHEN THEY'D SEIZE A LOT OF THE PISTON ALUMINUM WOULD WELD ITSELF TO THE CYLINDER SLEEVE, HONING WOULD JUST SMEAR ALUMINUM, AND YOU'D END UP BELL MOUTHING CYLINDER. WHAT WE USED WAS SOME OF THOSE CHEAP METAL HANDLED PAINT BRUSHES FROM HARBOR FREIGHT, AND MURATIC ACID TO EAT ALUMINUM OFF CYLINDER WALL. USE IN WELL VENTILATED AREA, YOU DON'T WANT TO BREATHE THOSE FUMES IT SMOKES. NEUTRALIZE ACID ON METAL WHEN DONE. WOULDN'T SURPRIZE.IF SOMEONE LOOKED THROUGH INJECTOR HOLE THOUGHT IT WAS PLUGGED, AND KNOCKED PIECE INTO CYLINDER, OR MAYBE LIKE BRIGGS. VALVE SEATS, THOSE PIECES GET HOT, AND FALL OUT.
One day , if it hasn't happened yet. You'll be working 200 feet up in the air and turn around and tarzan will be right next to you handing you a tool. I was impressed he has boots on. JCB Junk comes from Britian (Dutch-close enough).
Hey Jesse, Nice job going all the way on this repair. Reminds me of the job you did to repair the one with the bent pushrod. I just got a borescope delivered yesterday. I'm looking forward to using it to find where my engine is losing coolant. I guess you were saying is that if you had gone to the borescope first you would have saved some time on the diagnostics. Anyway, looking forward to part two, three and however many.
If anyone has the determination to fix this machine it'll be you. I also want to thank you for pointing out the fact that your son was buttoned up nicely for the cold, should ease the minds of those who like to critique your parenting skills lol. Good luck with it.👍
Make sure you drain the hydraulic tank clean the strainer in the tank while you've got everything out of there. Also those lines that run under the engine are a huge PIA so may want to replace those as well.
"The service manual doesn't have a lot of details, pulling the engine is only like 10 steps" LMAO preach brother, preach. Same exact response when I did this with my CAT 289D, the manual was next to useless for the engine removal. Step 1 - disconnect rad assembly Step 2 - disconnect ECM Step 2.5 - disconnect everything else Step 3 - use special tool #69 from you CAT dealer to pull engine
New to this channel and really enjoying it. I love hearing you think things through, explaining what you feel is going on, and what your plan is next. Kinda helped me with my own projects. Thank you!
I was the dealer support for Perkins for 15 years. You reply with the serial number (side of the block on the metal plate) I can be of more help. Fuel pressure to the inlet of the fuel injection pump should be more than 7 PSI... just something to put in your back pocket. These engines do have pre-combustion chambers. You cannot remove that inner piece in the head, or replace it... you'll need a new head. Engine is not a sleeved engine. It is actually plateau honed for emission regulations. The injector leaking likely was what started this failure. Spraying fuel in there it slowly eats that piston head (usually sits on the rings and eats the side of the piston). The fuel burning actually can cause the pre-combustion chamber to fall out and then it rattles around in there and usually scuffs the cylinder walls, which usually means you have to rehone them (legally makes it not emission compliant). I would not be surprised if it also may have bent the piston rod. You can also reach out and see what a short block costs for this, as after all the parts are taken apart and done, might be worth it concerning the cost. Fuel injection pump is SHIM timed (so keep those under the fuel injection pump for height) and has springs that pull the rack of that fuel pump back into position... engine seemed to respond to throttle but you can disconnect the pin that attaches to the rack for the fuel injection pump and see if the rack moves smoothly with gravity as the fuel can get gummy and stick.
thanks for clarifying this. I guess I do need a new head. I wonder why the combustion chamber inserts seem replaceable. I dont know how you would get one out though
@@jmuller86 they are a press fit with a follow up process from the factory and then are honed from what I remember. Usually only ever drop out when you have a leaking injector or excessive use of starter fluid or a badly warped head. Fairly unusual failure on these engines. More common are scuffed cylinder walls with spun bearings due to lack of lubrication as the running angle of these is often abused. With that much fuel being poured into the oil I would suspect you also have a bearing that will have scuffed the rod and you may need rods replaced due to damage. Common follow up failure with a leaking injector, particularly one that has been failing for awhile.
4 would be ok too. I noticed all the water when you pulled the plate off. See if you can make another hole at the lowest spot so it can be cleaned out occasionally. If something happened with the fuel system and leaked a bunch of fuel around the engine it would be good to have a clean out. Just an idea.
I'm no mechanic and don't pretend to be one in RUclips comments. However, i find this kind of very interesting and entertaining. The thought processes involved and the challenges of such a project are admirable. Look forward to the next video.
Great video as always. Really enjoy the long form “real time” walkthrough of what Jesse is thinking and how he’s going about the job. He’s way ahead of me on big jobs like this but I always learn something.
Haha, a little nice skid for me...your son is amazing. I wish you a lot of luck with that issue. it will be a lot work. And drill some holes in the bottom plate so that nothing can refill it again.
I came to tell you I've seen that. What I was told by some old-time diesel guys was that's happens from overheating the engine or somebody sprayed starting fluid in there with the glow plugs hot and kaboom blew it right out of the head. I read a few comments and it seems other people have experienced the same thing. Great content Jesse can't wait to see you put it back together.
After seeing several other brands of skidsteers on youtube and how they are made, im glad i bought my Gehl 6635 DXT with high/low flow with 1300hrs with new tires for $13k, granted its for hobby use but should last me forever
Gehl seems to be nice. But for me.. tracks is the only way to go after having my gehl ctl60. It is a really nice machine that just doesnt give me any problems
@@jmuller86 yea i just use mine for farm and home, it will lift a 2200lb retaining wall blocks and thats the most i will move with it anyway other than random stuff and leveling off places to stack things or build another building. Tracks would be awesome but i cant justify the cost difference for me
@Jesse Muller This has happened with a tractor, the preignition chamber got launched into the piston from a misfire while starting with ether, Could also have dropped like a valve seat if that cylinder overheated for example wrong fuel air ratio, to little fuel creates hotter burn temp, check coolant passages in head and weather the head is warped also injector spray pattern, the loose rockers probably got to little lubrication from that one cylinder being to hot making the oil to liquid
Also check if the injection pump got tinkered with, perhaps measure fuel at incectors by cranking with the attached injectors hanging into some measuring beaker / cup, all 4 gotta be very close to the same in the end
No, mine is fine. The manual says the engine should be removed with pump assy. I believe you just unbolt the 4 big engine mount bolts and unhook all necessary hoses and wires. After the assy is out you can separate the engine from the pumps. There about 3 bolts on each of the pump assy to bell housing. Be careful as there is a plastic splined drive coupling on pump which sets in flywheel hub.
I think its actually a 404c-22T. Not sure what difference is, probably not much. seems like a decent engine but not being sleeved isn't the greatest design
Can you believe that this machine is a product from a company started by the guy who invented the backhoe tractor ,Joseph Cyril Bamford, after a farmer asked him to mount a backhoe to dig ditches on his tractor ,this was in 1953.the company also built the first European front end loader earlier in 1949. It is still family owned and run by Joe Bamford's grandson based in Mid England it is the biggest privately owned plant machine builder in the world.
Jess, your gonna half to "Modify" the back engine firewall, remove the seat, and measure out for a large enough rectangular opening to cut out. Save that piece and mount a few hinges on it. Don't be afraid to tweak the machine to get difficult areas. Hey you own it so make those changes to save on future repairs. You will need to take the radiator out and the whole back grill off, then slide the engine out that way.
I was waiting for your boy to short out the battery!! Someone got the pre-combustion chamber. Yes, they can fall out. Take the tracks off, roll it around.
Man, I agree 100%!! I learned the hard way. Twice. I was 14 working on my uncle's farm when I accidentally shorted the positive post and it blew up in my face. No serious injury. Then later in life, I owned a couple trucking companies and I went to jump the battery in my fork lift and it sparked when I connected the cables and it blew up in my face. Like a 12ga shotgun going off next to the head. Again, no injuries. Now when I work on an 12v battery, I take the ground off and isolate it. Take the positive off and put a battery post cap on it. I save every battery post cap I get. When I jump start, I put hot + to dead +, hot - to dead engine block. Never battery to battery ever again.
That side door entry/exit would be super handy for a bucket full of firewood rounds. Just raise the bucket to the perfect height of the wood splitter and have at it. Can't do that with my Cat. Unless I take the door off. Not in the Winter.
Your kids are goobers (just like mine is) and I freakin love it!! I can’t control myself!😂 as they pull up on big brothers shirt. lol. Good stuff. Also. My guess would be the tip of the injector failed cause if it to over fuel that cylinder. That causes a ton of heat which expanded the head enough to let the pre combustion chamber cap to fall out which then got slammed back and forth putting a hole in the piston.
I have rebuild the same engine, pretty simple design. You can get oversize pistons and then just bore it out. Not the best engine around and unfortunately its in jcb... hope you get it sorted without to much hassle.
@Jesse Muller . Your number one injector got it's tip stuck. Turned into a flame thrower. Heated the pre combustion chamber and head surrounding it. Different coefficient of expansion means that the pre chamber fell out. If it happens on a direct injected engine, it burns a hole in the piston straight away. Well, that's what i would think.
From video it seems those scratches are above the TDC and definitely above the piston rings when the piston is at TDC. Due to that, I wouldn't worry too much about getting them honed out.
Looks like the piece that's missing in the head would be like a flat frost plug with a hole in it for the injector to shoot fuel through. It appears that it bounced around on the top of the piston by the round impressions before it was finally caught on edge and embedded into the piston. It might have made a small enough crack in the piston so there was still enough compression to fire. Each time it fired, hot gas went through the crack acting like a torch and eventually created a large enough hole that there was no longer enough compression to fire the fuel. It appears that the design of that chamber is to keep the heat from the glow plug concentrated on the base of the injector so warm fuel is injected to make starting in cold weather easier. As has been posted, if starting fluid is used with the glow plugs, it could get into that chamber and that area being warmer might cause the explosion to begin there so there is higher pressure in that chamber than in the larger area on top of the piston. It seems like that should ignite the mixture above the piston an instant later but it might create enough of a pressure differential to pop that piece out. It might also be caused by overheating the engine. Valve seats falling out has become rather common but that's often on aluminum heads where the metals expand at different rates.
I want to clear up some confusion. When I put the borescope down the cylinder, I thought there was a hole in the piston but then I started second guessing it since I couldn't see that well. That is why I keep diagnosing it after that point.
Jesse firstly great content as always.
After seeing the injector on 1 then once you bore scoped it I knew what happened. Injector started to spray a bad pattern which over heated the precombustion chamber causing it to fall out of the head. I would highly suggest having all of the injectors tested at the least if not replace them.
I would suggest either D&W in Latham, Ny or metro fuel in Mass
Sherlock Holmes would be proud.
It's ok sometimes malice in the combustion palace can throw anyone for a loop.
The engine and pump combo removal looks like a nightmare great video 👍🏻🇺🇸
@@gregolson1824yes I may even just get new injectors, they are not that expensive. I had called d+w as soon as I saw the nipple on the end gone. They had one in stock.
Brother I can say I’ve saw this once before that’s the glow plug chamber and it’s because too much starting fluid is used too quickly and it made small but powerful explosions in the glow plug chamber blew plug out into your cylinder and the plug got beat into the piston and caused a hole into the piston looks like the piston was coming back down from tdc when it occurred because the intake valve has the damage. Great video keep them coming.
Been stuck on your channel for a couple weeks man really enjoy all the content thanks for all you do great RUclipsr
First Class Diesel Mechanic, First Class Carpenter, First Class Plumber, First Class Heating Engineer, First Class Electrician, First Class Plant Operator, First Class Concrete Finisher, First Class Septic System Installer, First Class House Builder. I reckon that’s first class. What a skilful young man.👍🥳
Thank you
You missed 1st class father :D
@@Tailss1 He didn’t have to learn that it is hereditary and natural.
When you pulled the dipstick that said it all. It was expecting to see either a cracked piston or burnt through the ring lands. For the swirl chambers to break up it was probably a bad spray pattern or it ran on it's own oil at some point. Be careful with the kids playing with tools around batteries. He was seconds away from a life changing injury. Looking forward to part 2
Way too close for any comfort
While you have the radiator and engine out consider drilling some small drain holes in the skid plate. There was alot of water inside. Keep up the good work. Fun video!
make it removebal :)
@@firefly2472 Do both suggestions
No wonder so many fires in these thangs! No drain holes or clean outz?
Skill level is off the charts.
His skill level is off the charts? Not really. You don’t know many good mechanics do you?
@@mikehunt3222 Did I call him a mechanic? Lighten up!
Very much enjoy your trouble-shooting and abilities. I have to say the coolest part of your video is getting to see a patient dad with his two sons and how cool is it that they have a dad with the best toys and that can teach them how to use them and fix them. And also to be a patient dad with kids of their own. Looking forward to more "Fixing the Iron" videos.
Wow , what an undertaking . But , the same way you eat an elephant , piece by piece . Great video J .
Your kid with the tools around the open connections on the battery made me keep my breath...
Thank you for sharing, always a pleasure watch your project, I lears a lot.👍👍👍👍
I know the work is more important than making a video, but I think you have one of the most interesting videos and would like to see them more often, if you can.
thanks, some of my videos require so much work that it slows down the flow of uploads. I hope to catch up soon
I think the way it was constructed with the closed bottom and the massive firewall is caused by the single arm design, cutting the bottom will result in loss of rigidity.
For the fallen out chamber cover, I would lean to a ether over-use, causing thermal expansion...
Thx for showing and looking forward to part 2...
👍👍👍
Thank you for showing us what not to buy.
Thanks, however I'm poor live far away not looking for any favors.
Nice Job! look forward to the ending - hopefully you can get it going good again and get some use out of it and then cash out on it.
That was very interesting. Like to watch how you figure out how and why❤❤❤❤❤❤
Whoever you bought this from needs to see this video. I hope he does the right thing and sends you back half the money. Best of luck.
My roommate has the larger JCB version of this, and its a tank. We use it around the property for everything and haven't had any issues yet. These are pretty solid machines
JCB = Junk Construction Brand
@@cyumadbrosummit3534 Just Crappy Built🍻
Junk Coming (from) Britain.
The lopsided wear on a machine like this has to be pretty awful, though.
You have two fine helpers in your children, great you are involving them with your mechanics. God bless you and your family.
You can use the head as a template to make a lifting plate to pull the engine! I’m learning from you my friend, all I can teach is how to make a lifting plates to pull it out! Thanks for sharing Jesse, Kirk from Louisiana sending prayers and good vibes my friend! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I’m sorry to say but that’s why I don’t care for JCB equipment, I just haven’t seen too many known operators running JCB equipment! I see most of them in other countries! 🤷🏼 I hope you get her running like a top brother, good luck Jesse! I still enjoy watching, I just hate seeing you having to fight with it! At least you’re able too! You’re a pretty good mechanic from what I’ve seen my friend, very knowledgeable! I’m a retired Welder but I’m learning from you brother! I know others are learning as well!👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Love the video. As a Brit I hope you manage to fix this machine and get many years of usage out of it. JCB backhoes pretty much built this countries infrastructure in my lifetime.
I'm a fellow brit love JCB's
Jesse, Great video. Loved being here to watch you dig into this problem. Look forward to seeing the next videos in this series to see what else you find. I also love watching you interact with your kids. My dad was a lot like you, and he had me out there with him all of the time. I learned a lot from just watching him - until the time he realized that I could do much of the repair - then, he handed me a wrench and said, "Get Busy!"
Jesse, if I were independently wealthy and had a lot of free time on my hands, I would consider taking on a task like this. However, I'm not and don't have very much free time. I would have to pass. For you're sake, I admire your tenacity and patience.
The cherry on top of your videos is your kids. I didn't think I've seen kids this natural since way back before I ever saw TV. It also seems they watch you close enough to ask relative questions. I a few short years yer gunna gave a couple of great helpers!
Cant isnt a word 💪 you are not just another hot shot youtuber, you actually work on your projects, and finish them. I also like the patient way, you are with the Kids.
You're making a Wise choice by not cutting corners, good job Jesse.. that was cute when Noah said he was out of control.lmao😂😂😂😂
Jesse… you continue to amaze with your positivity!
Hello ! I think that the stable welded base plate is structurally necessary because the load distribution due to the side arm would otherwise destabilize the entire structure!!
You just have to accept that the engine has to come out upwards when an engine is repaired!!
It is just a fantasic jcb design. They dont care about mechanics.
@@megape95 is there any manufacturer that cares about mechanics?
@@johnparkhurst825 No, that would dig into profits.
I've heard of over generous use of starter fluid that was suspected of causing damage in a few engines, maybe that's what happened inside that cylinder's pre-combustion chamber, liberating the pressed insert from the head and onto the piston. I guess it will be extremely difficult at this stage to be sure of the root cause of the issue. Looking forward to part two, when you pull the engine/pump without cutting an access hole in the bottom of the frame.
1. They ran it out of fuel. 2. They attempted to bleed, bypassed fuel pump. 3. They filled the intake with starting fluid when not cranking (probably one guy alone) then: 4 BAM! BLEW IT UP. send the head to a QUALIFIED machine shop. Pull the motor, disassemble, BORE IT OUT., reassemble. You are way ahead of the game money wise.
We always use muriatic acid to remove aluminum from crank journals etc. Works well. Probably would save alot of honing.
I grew up in a garage so did my son I’m sure his will too I just wanted to say your a great father and he’s never going to forget it
just found your channel, good stuff,
What a nightmare job. You have more patience than I. God bless you. I love Noah. What a smart little pisser!
Looking forward to this project - once you get that thing back in tip top shape it will serve you for years to come.
We have a 1999 JCB 804 trac-hoe (mini) with a 3 cylinder Perkins and that engine has been fantastic. 3100 hours and running great..just keep up with normal maintenance.
The fact that the shrapnel went through the rest of the engine Jesse is an unfortunate situation requiring a total tear down as everything will have suffered from overall contamination the same as when an oil cooler goes, but this is metal eating metal and possibly restricting
Oil circulation as well, she's a surgical 100% deal, best would be a engine replacement, you'll have to weigh the costs and risks you're comfortable with if it's a long term unit investment ,doing it twice is a bitter pill to swallow this we all know. Best wishes as always, thanks for sharing.
Whew! The keyboard technicians are out in force on this one!
I especially love the comments that show they did not watch the entire video, got 5 min in and gave their “expert opinion” lol
Old saying buy used buying someone elses troubles..
Enjoy watching you fixes these used equipments but feel for you on all the man hours.
Good luck Jess..
My lands you are a fearless man. Your confidence in your abilities is something to envy and to work toward. God be with you on this one. I will be watching.
We feel your pain. Thanks for bringing us along.
very heartwarming. you may have a future diesel mechanic in the making. God Bless you and your family.
That tool shelf on the left, is called a battery. Aprox 180 CCA, of spark, melt wrenches, and fire. Looks like 2 m13 nuts is all to remove it and make the job much safer. Plus more work space.
My therory is someone used either while glow plugging it, and blew the precombustion chamber loose, feeding it into the piston
I enjoyed the detail that you went into while diagnosing the problem, thanks for explaining all that
Wow jess.. one hell of a mechanic and problem solver... this is going to be a great vid for your veiwers.. I've watched only the first 30 mins and lessons are learnt. Thank you master Muller🙏
I follow your channel for a while now, and I like your attitude, if there is a problem solve it. With try and error you learn the most, respect!
Looking forward to part two, have learned allot from your skid steer videos. Thank you for taking the effort to film!
I'm not sure it relates... but I once had the tip of an injector break off and I didn't even get my truck stopped before it had put a hole in my piston. I'm not sure how that chamber popped loose... but once you get a little piece of very hard metal rattling around in the combustion chamber all sorts of carnage can happen. Like you didn't have enough going on... MAN! I'm going to love watching you fix this... but I feel for you bud. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.
So I have the larger brother to this the 190t. I’ve found that these first generation robots weren’t that common around here. Very little to no information on parts or service manuals online. Very little to no aftermarket parts options unfortunately. I only have run mine but I find that the controls are pretty slow compared to other machines but it does have plenty of power. My machine only has 916 hours on it and i need to do the main loader arm bushings on it which I’m dreading. I also have a Perkins engine but mine isn’t turbocharged but for $10,000 I can’t complain about it at all. Belonged to a very close friend and I bought it from his estate. He had repossessed it and bought it from the bank when it was roughly 4 years old with around 700 hours on it. He owned it roughly 12 years and only put 200 hours on it which honestly probably 100 of them was me using it 😂. The 12 years of just sitting around made one of the injector body’s rot out and it had a massive fuel when I got it. Still needs a seat I’m too cheap to buy one 😂. the second thing i had to do when I bought it was replace both rear idlers for the tracks. The bushings were so worn that the idlers were touching the sprockets. Overall having only put a few thousand into it and being all in at roughly $13000 for a track machine with 9xx hours I could probably turn around and flip it for double what I paid but had more sentimental value to me now that i couldn’t
Yea i noticed the controls are a little weird. I thought they might have been electronic but I checked and they are pilot. I guess slow would be describe them. I love my Gehl ctl60, everything about it is real nice. I think if I keep this one it will only be because of the side door. Other than that I would sell it in a heartbeat after fixing it
@@jmuller86 to be completely honest I think the side door is cool and all but I still find myself going in and out of the machine from the front. I have larger tracks on my machine and i think it’s a bit awkward stepping on them The wheeled machines it looks like it’s way easier to get in and out
Thank you for this nice vlog! Looking forward to the next part in this challenging project 👍🏻
Thats a JOB, but I've seen you rebuild stuff i would have thrown a match to. Looking forward to the next video or two
Love that Noah realized that watching RUclips was less interesting than watching dad work. I guess watching dad work is a bit like watching RUclips live, now that I think about it.
New subscribers.
I like the channel. I like how you explain all the steps. Looking forward to video 2 . Nice job
Another great upload.
Your hard work is highly appreciated.
Thanks Jesse
HEY JESSE, SOMETHING WE USE TO USE A LOT WHEN REBUILDING BOAT MOTORS WHEN THEY'D SEIZE A LOT OF THE PISTON ALUMINUM WOULD WELD ITSELF TO THE CYLINDER SLEEVE, HONING WOULD JUST SMEAR ALUMINUM, AND YOU'D END UP BELL MOUTHING CYLINDER. WHAT WE USED WAS SOME OF THOSE CHEAP METAL HANDLED PAINT BRUSHES FROM HARBOR FREIGHT, AND MURATIC ACID TO EAT ALUMINUM OFF CYLINDER WALL. USE IN WELL VENTILATED AREA, YOU DON'T WANT TO BREATHE THOSE FUMES IT SMOKES. NEUTRALIZE ACID ON METAL WHEN DONE. WOULDN'T SURPRIZE.IF SOMEONE LOOKED THROUGH INJECTOR HOLE THOUGHT IT WAS PLUGGED, AND KNOCKED PIECE INTO CYLINDER, OR MAYBE LIKE BRIGGS. VALVE SEATS, THOSE PIECES GET HOT, AND FALL OUT.
Jesse nice Machine and definitely send the head out and have it rebuilt Definitely worth the time
One day , if it hasn't happened yet. You'll be working 200 feet up in the air and turn around and tarzan will be right next to you handing you a tool. I was impressed he has boots on. JCB Junk comes from Britian (Dutch-close enough).
Hey Jesse, Nice job going all the way on this repair. Reminds me of the job you did to repair the one with the bent pushrod. I just got a borescope delivered yesterday. I'm looking forward to using it to find where my engine is losing coolant. I guess you were saying is that if you had gone to the borescope first you would have saved some time on the diagnostics. Anyway, looking forward to part two, three and however many.
If anyone has the determination to fix this machine it'll be you. I also want to thank you for pointing out the fact that your son was buttoned up nicely for the cold, should ease the minds of those who like to critique your parenting skills lol. Good luck with it.👍
Jesse noah is on a roll happy week of giving thanks blessings to family 🎉🎉❤❤😊😊
Jesse, I can't get over how adorable your kids are!! ❤ Thank you. For always putting out such great videos!
Make sure you drain the hydraulic tank clean the strainer in the tank while you've got everything out of there. Also those lines that run under the engine are a huge PIA so may want to replace those as well.
"The service manual doesn't have a lot of details, pulling the engine is only like 10 steps"
LMAO preach brother, preach. Same exact response when I did this with my CAT 289D, the manual was next to useless for the engine removal.
Step 1 - disconnect rad assembly
Step 2 - disconnect ECM
Step 2.5 - disconnect everything else
Step 3 - use special tool #69 from you CAT dealer to pull engine
New to this channel and really enjoying it. I love hearing you think things through, explaining what you feel is going on, and what your plan is next. Kinda helped me with my own projects. Thank you!
I was the dealer support for Perkins for 15 years. You reply with the serial number (side of the block on the metal plate) I can be of more help.
Fuel pressure to the inlet of the fuel injection pump should be more than 7 PSI... just something to put in your back pocket.
These engines do have pre-combustion chambers. You cannot remove that inner piece in the head, or replace it... you'll need a new head.
Engine is not a sleeved engine. It is actually plateau honed for emission regulations.
The injector leaking likely was what started this failure. Spraying fuel in there it slowly eats that piston head (usually sits on the rings and eats the side of the piston). The fuel burning actually can cause the pre-combustion chamber to fall out and then it rattles around in there and usually scuffs the cylinder walls, which usually means you have to rehone them (legally makes it not emission compliant). I would not be surprised if it also may have bent the piston rod.
You can also reach out and see what a short block costs for this, as after all the parts are taken apart and done, might be worth it concerning the cost. Fuel injection pump is SHIM timed (so keep those under the fuel injection pump for height) and has springs that pull the rack of that fuel pump back into position... engine seemed to respond to throttle but you can disconnect the pin that attaches to the rack for the fuel injection pump and see if the rack moves smoothly with gravity as the fuel can get gummy and stick.
thanks for clarifying this. I guess I do need a new head. I wonder why the combustion chamber inserts seem replaceable. I dont know how you would get one out though
@@jmuller86 they are a press fit with a follow up process from the factory and then are honed from what I remember. Usually only ever drop out when you have a leaking injector or excessive use of starter fluid or a badly warped head. Fairly unusual failure on these engines. More common are scuffed cylinder walls with spun bearings due to lack of lubrication as the running angle of these is often abused. With that much fuel being poured into the oil I would suspect you also have a bearing that will have scuffed the rod and you may need rods replaced due to damage. Common follow up failure with a leaking injector, particularly one that has been failing for awhile.
all good and well worked, just one top tip: don't use the top of a battery to store your tools; one day, it will go bang
You are a very talented person. Everything you do is done with lots of thought.
4 would be ok too. I noticed all the water when you pulled the plate off. See if you can make another hole at the lowest spot so it can be cleaned out occasionally. If something happened with the fuel system and leaked a bunch of fuel around the engine it would be good to have a clean out. Just an idea.
I'm no mechanic and don't pretend to be one in RUclips comments.
However, i find this kind of very interesting and entertaining.
The thought processes involved and the challenges of such a project are admirable.
Look forward to the next video.
Great video as always. Really enjoy the long form “real time” walkthrough of what Jesse is thinking and how he’s going about the job. He’s way ahead of me on big jobs like this but I always learn something.
Haha, a little nice skid for me...your son is amazing. I wish you a lot of luck with that issue. it will be a lot work. And drill some holes in the bottom plate so that nothing can refill it again.
I came to tell you I've seen that. What I was told by some old-time diesel guys was that's happens from overheating the engine or somebody sprayed starting fluid in there with the glow plugs hot and kaboom blew it right out of the head. I read a few comments and it seems other people have experienced the same thing. Great content Jesse can't wait to see you put it back together.
After seeing several other brands of skidsteers on youtube and how they are made, im glad i bought my Gehl 6635 DXT with high/low flow with 1300hrs with new tires for $13k, granted its for hobby use but should last me forever
Gehl seems to be nice. But for me.. tracks is the only way to go after having my gehl ctl60. It is a really nice machine that just doesnt give me any problems
@@jmuller86 yea i just use mine for farm and home, it will lift a 2200lb retaining wall blocks and thats the most i will move with it anyway other than random stuff and leveling off places to stack things or build another building. Tracks would be awesome but i cant justify the cost difference for me
@Jesse Muller This has happened with a tractor, the preignition chamber got launched into the piston from a misfire while starting with ether,
Could also have dropped like a valve seat if that cylinder overheated for example wrong fuel air ratio, to little fuel creates hotter burn temp, check coolant passages in head and weather the head is warped also injector spray pattern, the loose rockers probably got to little lubrication from that one cylinder being to hot making the oil to liquid
Also check if the injection pump got tinkered with, perhaps measure fuel at incectors by cranking with the attached injectors hanging into some measuring beaker / cup, all 4 gotta be very close to the same in the end
Love your videos man, It’s also good to see that your kids are interested in what your working on. Happy Holidays to you and your family!
Another great video Jesse,sorry for your luck on this engine but I'm sure you'll get it,makes for interesting content good luck!
I have the same machine. After you remove the seat base it will open up the pump area considerably.
Did you pull the engine at some point?
No, mine is fine. The manual says the engine should be removed with pump assy. I believe you just unbolt the 4 big engine mount bolts and unhook all necessary hoses and wires. After the assy is out you can separate the engine from the pumps. There about 3 bolts on each of the pump assy to bell housing. Be careful as there is a plastic splined drive coupling on pump which sets in flywheel hub.
that piece came loose and went in the chamber. It got hammered. Parts of it went out the exhaust and other parts went in the crankcase.
When you had it running an the oil was pushing out it's said it had a hole in the piston an mostly dropped a valve
Had something similar happen on a Wood chipper, bad injector causes the camber to blow out into cylinder,
Nice video Jesse take your time I'll watch whatever you put out thank you.
part 2 and 3 would be great this morning. ps love noah helping
Little Noah is one of the best parts of Jesse's videos!
You're brave to take on these projects! Great video!!
Looks like the same engine in my TYM, its a Perkins 404D-22T (2.2L Turbo). Im currently rebuilding the engine in it.
I think its actually a 404c-22T. Not sure what difference is, probably not much. seems like a decent engine but not being sleeved isn't the greatest design
Can you believe that this machine is a product from a company started by the guy who invented the backhoe tractor ,Joseph Cyril Bamford, after a farmer asked him to mount a backhoe to dig ditches on his tractor ,this was in 1953.the company also built the first European front end loader earlier in 1949.
It is still family owned and run by Joe Bamford's grandson based in Mid England it is the biggest privately owned plant machine builder in the world.
If you would like to see more of JCB's engineering expertise, go visit @snowballengineering. He has plenty to say about JCB quality and engineering.
yikes... this is why we dont buy things site unseen ..or take peoples word for it,,,,but im sure you will get it runnin great!!
Jess, your gonna half to "Modify" the back engine firewall, remove the seat, and measure out for a large enough rectangular opening to cut out. Save that piece and mount a few hinges on it. Don't be afraid to tweak the machine to get difficult areas. Hey you own it so make those changes to save on future repairs. You will need to take the radiator out and the whole back grill off, then slide the engine out that way.
I was waiting for your boy to short out the battery!! Someone got the pre-combustion chamber. Yes, they can fall out. Take the tracks off, roll it around.
Man, I agree 100%!! I learned the hard way. Twice. I was 14 working on my uncle's farm when I accidentally shorted the positive post and it blew up in my face. No serious injury. Then later in life, I owned a couple trucking companies and I went to jump the battery in my fork lift and it sparked when I connected the cables and it blew up in my face. Like a 12ga shotgun going off next to the head. Again, no injuries. Now when I work on an 12v battery, I take the ground off and isolate it. Take the positive off and put a battery post cap on it. I save every battery post cap I get. When I jump start, I put hot + to dead +, hot - to dead engine block. Never battery to battery ever again.
That side door entry/exit would be super handy for a bucket full of firewood rounds. Just raise the bucket to the perfect height of the wood splitter and have at it. Can't do that with my Cat. Unless I take the door off. Not in the Winter.
Your kids are goobers (just like mine is) and I freakin love it!! I can’t control myself!😂 as they pull up on big brothers shirt. lol. Good stuff. Also. My guess would be the tip of the injector failed cause if it to over fuel that cylinder. That causes a ton of heat which expanded the head enough to let the pre combustion chamber cap to fall out which then got slammed back and forth putting a hole in the piston.
I have rebuild the same engine, pretty simple design. You can get oversize pistons and then just bore it out. Not the best engine around and unfortunately its in jcb... hope you get it sorted without to much hassle.
@Jesse Muller . Your number one injector got it's tip stuck. Turned into a flame thrower. Heated the pre combustion chamber and head surrounding it. Different coefficient of expansion means that the pre chamber fell out. If it happens on a direct injected engine, it burns a hole in the piston straight away. Well, that's what i would think.
From video it seems those scratches are above the TDC and definitely above the piston rings when the piston is at TDC. Due to that, I wouldn't worry too much about getting them honed out.
Great job.
Put a plastic cap on + Battery. (or -)
Great video 👍I would hone the bore new piston etc.Modify access to serviceable part's and put it back together and just use it.
Looks like the piece that's missing in the head would be like a flat frost plug with a hole in it for the injector to shoot fuel through. It appears that it bounced around on the top of the piston by the round impressions before it was finally caught on edge and embedded into the piston. It might have made a small enough crack in the piston so there was still enough compression to fire. Each time it fired, hot gas went through the crack acting like a torch and eventually created a large enough hole that there was no longer enough compression to fire the fuel.
It appears that the design of that chamber is to keep the heat from the glow plug concentrated on the base of the injector so warm fuel is injected to make starting in cold weather easier. As has been posted, if starting fluid is used with the glow plugs, it could get into that chamber and that area being warmer might cause the explosion to begin there so there is higher pressure in that chamber than in the larger area on top of the piston. It seems like that should ignite the mixture above the piston an instant later but it might create enough of a pressure differential to pop that piece out. It might also be caused by overheating the engine. Valve seats falling out has become rather common but that's often on aluminum heads where the metals expand at different rates.
All the pistons have round indents for the valve heads, as far as I could tell.
I used to buy old equipment from then I quit doing it cuz I ran the problems like like you are so doing it,
Now when I do I'll buy a brand new
Great video! Looking forward to the series on this.