Thanks! I appreciate that! I've considered it. It would be nice to have a bolt-on step notch and a bolt-in trailing arm suspension! Most of the aftermarket stuff for sale is very poor quality.
Sweet ride bro. Love the radio and woofer setup. Good to know about the frame rails too. Looking for inspiration to build my grandmother's '50 fleetline. Been in the family since new, hasn't seen a road in 40 years.
Thanks!! Thats awesome your going to be bringing it back to life. Does it still have the stovebolt 6 in it? Such good engines. I've seen some guys shove the full pressure 235's or 261's in there. I drove a '50 with a Jag IFS in it and they drive fantastic. Power steering and power brakes and its dang near a bolt in. I think its good for about 4" of drop too.
@@78SilverBronco my dad pulled the original 218 and replaced it with a 235 in the mid '70s. The patina looks very similar to your '50. It's been parked outside most of the time since new. Survived quite a few North TX hail storms over the years without so much as a dent. Interesting tip about the jag IFS. Definitely want to get the ride height similar to yours.
@@PrescribedFire Thats awesome! They look so good with the patina. And if you dont have a ton of cancerous rust to deal with, it really makes things much easier. I hear texas gets some gnarly hail storms so thats a huge testament to their build quality. The biggest complaint i have about a mustang 2 IFS is the lack of ground clearance & no-power steering. Unfortunately the mustang 2 IFS with 2" drop spindles causes the crossmember to hang very low. If you hit a bump just right, you can bottom out and its a bit sketchy. Handles fantastic, ride is a bit stiff. If you wanted a cheaper option, you can step the frame and use the Jag IFS (or the stock one for that matter). The challenges there become sheet metal mounting, but its probably cheaper and will yield a better ride. Had I to do it all over, I'd look more closely at the fatman kit. I've heard their kit tucks the crossmember up higher in the frame, closer to the oil pan and gives you much better ground clearance and the power steering rack clears the frame rail. The trailing arm rear end worked out great. Ride techs are nice riding and good clearance. The worst part was tunneling the floor out for the driveline.
You can stop rear spring bind up by directly clamping a piece of flat bar steel to the front half of the leaf spring. Zero clearance issues with no binding.
Thanks! Thats rad, the coupes are very cool. I got my radiator from chevs of the 40's. its a brass radiator. I cant say I recommend it though, mine had a leak from the factory and they were horrible when I tried to warranty it. Most of the aluminum ones I've seen are very expensive. Maybe look and see what Speedway Motors has thats a generic fit hot-rod radiator, some times the application-specific stuff is a bit pricey. I think I paid nearly 600 for mine, and then another 180 to fix the leaks Chevs of the 40's wouldnt take care of.
I also have a 50 chevy deluxe has s 10 rearend 235 with edmonds intake duel webers and split ex manifolds. Same as you i have bluetooth in stock radio ans sub unnder seat
thanks man! Love the 49-52's! The wheels are 15x6" crager reverse chrome steelies painted black. The tires are 215/75/15's. I recently went with blackwall Continental CS5's and they look way better!
Nice job on the rear suspension! I’m working on a 50 Fleetline and have been looking at diff rear suspension options. I really like how you designed and built yours. I have the same rear axle too. The commentary in the vid was great info. Would you mind sharing what make/ model and year trailing arms you used? Is there much body roll in the rear? Have you experienced any binding in the rear suspension or do the bushings have enough play/ compression so no binding?
Thanks!! So I used 99-04 Land Rover Discovery trailing arms. They make mounting a snap. www.ebay.com/itm/183803925113 Body roll in the rear is minimal, but controlled fairly well with the shocks and springs. Unfortunately, all the steel bracketry on the axle and the disco TA's added more unsprung weight than I would like. If I remember correctly, I'm running 175lb hyper coil springs in the rear. If I were to do it again, I'd run 150's, but I prefer a very soft ride. Currently, it rides like a modern car in the rear. Stiff, but not harsh. Its much more composed than the Mustang 2 front. There is some amount of bind in the bushings as with most radius arm/trailing arm setups, but it occurs at fairly extreme articulation of the axle. When I had this setup installed without springs supported on jack stands, I could get a 6" height difference between the left and ride side of the axle before I felt any bind. During street driving, its non-existent. I've never had snap oversteer, wheels stay in excellent contact with the ground during road undulation mid-corner, and the ride is quite good considering. Ideally, I would have made this a converging trailing arm setup, so the angle at which the trailing arms is placed converges to some center-point (this reduces bind, gives better articulation), but given the space and my capabilities, I chose to go this route and it worked out pretty well, aside from being heavy. I think between the coil overs ($700), Johny joints ($100), Trailing arms ($150), steel ($100), and misc stuff Im invested about $1100 or so in the setup when its all said and done.
@@78SilverBronco thanks for sharing so much info, really appreciate it. I haven’t bought an MII for the front yet. Not sure what to buy. Would you pick a different MII set up if you did it again? The kits are pricey so I need to do more research before buying.
@@100PercentYourNeighbor No problem! Honestly, I was super disappointed with my kit. I had broken welds, poor fitment, and manual steering on the M2 is very tough. If you add 2" drop spindles like I did, the cross member hit on everything unless you run stiffer springs. In general, its not a great setup Depending on how low you want to go, there are a few options I'd consider. 1. Jaguar XJ6 front end - cheap, disc brakes, power steering, damn near bolt in, stock bolt pattern, etc. Ive driven a 50 with a Jag IFS, they drive amazing. You can only get down about 4" from stock if you go this route, but its very economical. A jag IFS should cost $200-$500. The HAMB has a few write ups on the swap. If I were to do it all over, this is what I would do and deal with not being as low. 2. Fatman Ultra-low kit - these allow power steering, raise the cross member higher than other mustang 2 kits (so you dont scrape) and you wont have to run drop spindles. 3. Lexus SC300/400 or Supra front end. These handle awesome, are close to a bolt in, good brakes, power steering, etc. Only major fabrication is required to mount your coil overs. This setup isnt great for getting low, unless you z the frame, but it would handle amazing. 4. Channel the body over a modern chassis - obviously a ton of work here, but if you get the right donor, it can be done without major troubles. 80's G-body el-caminos have nearly identical wheel base, factory 4 link rear, 10 bolt, 305 or 350's w/700r4's, and tons of aftermarket stuff (anything g-body bolts to it). The bulk of your work would be in floor fabrication and mounting the body, but it takes the guess work out of the suspension. Track widths and wheel base are nearly stock, keeping wheels in the fenders where they should be.
No, its fixed. I get about a 1.5 degree change in angle depending on the static ride height. Just gotta be sure to check all of that before welding it in.
Im running a 2000 Ford Explorer 3.73 disc brake rear. I had to compensate for the offset driveline by modifying the floor under the rear seat. Also the pinion flange on the 8.8 is fairly large, so that can impact the floor as well.
Stereo setup is cool. I like the idea of the rear adjustment you got going.
Thanks!
Beautiful build!
I just bought a 50 Styleline 2 door sedan and im looking for inspiration.
Thank you for sharing your ride.❤
That’s awesome! Any big plans for it so far?
Just got a 49 2 door with an inline 6 trying too figure out how too swap it out with a sbc 350 without changing the whole front end.
Thumbs up for the car. Another thumbs up for the audio set up and song choice!
Thanks!
She's beautiful! And you should market this suspension,I would buy it and thanks for sharing your skills.
Thanks! I appreciate that! I've considered it. It would be nice to have a bolt-on step notch and a bolt-in trailing arm suspension! Most of the aftermarket stuff for sale is very poor quality.
Wow this is amazing.
Thanks!
Sweet ride bro. Love the radio and woofer setup. Good to know about the frame rails too.
Looking for inspiration to build my grandmother's '50 fleetline. Been in the family since new, hasn't seen a road in 40 years.
Thanks!!
Thats awesome your going to be bringing it back to life. Does it still have the stovebolt 6 in it? Such good engines. I've seen some guys shove the full pressure 235's or 261's in there.
I drove a '50 with a Jag IFS in it and they drive fantastic. Power steering and power brakes and its dang near a bolt in. I think its good for about 4" of drop too.
@@78SilverBronco my dad pulled the original 218 and replaced it with a 235 in the mid '70s. The patina looks very similar to your '50. It's been parked outside most of the time since new. Survived quite a few North TX hail storms over the years without so much as a dent.
Interesting tip about the jag IFS. Definitely want to get the ride height similar to yours.
@@PrescribedFire Thats awesome! They look so good with the patina. And if you dont have a ton of cancerous rust to deal with, it really makes things much easier. I hear texas gets some gnarly hail storms so thats a huge testament to their build quality.
The biggest complaint i have about a mustang 2 IFS is the lack of ground clearance & no-power steering. Unfortunately the mustang 2 IFS with 2" drop spindles causes the crossmember to hang very low. If you hit a bump just right, you can bottom out and its a bit sketchy. Handles fantastic, ride is a bit stiff.
If you wanted a cheaper option, you can step the frame and use the Jag IFS (or the stock one for that matter). The challenges there become sheet metal mounting, but its probably cheaper and will yield a better ride.
Had I to do it all over, I'd look more closely at the fatman kit. I've heard their kit tucks the crossmember up higher in the frame, closer to the oil pan and gives you much better ground clearance and the power steering rack clears the frame rail.
The trailing arm rear end worked out great. Ride techs are nice riding and good clearance. The worst part was tunneling the floor out for the driveline.
Saludos desde Durango Durango México ✌🍒
You can stop rear spring bind up by directly clamping a piece of flat bar steel to the front half of the leaf spring. Zero clearance issues with no binding.
kool car man dig it
Love the videos, i am building a 1950 chevy styline coupe myself, what radiator are you running for the v8
Thanks!
Thats rad, the coupes are very cool. I got my radiator from chevs of the 40's. its a brass radiator. I cant say I recommend it though, mine had a leak from the factory and they were horrible when I tried to warranty it. Most of the aluminum ones I've seen are very expensive. Maybe look and see what Speedway Motors has thats a generic fit hot-rod radiator, some times the application-specific stuff is a bit pricey. I think I paid nearly 600 for mine, and then another 180 to fix the leaks Chevs of the 40's wouldnt take care of.
I also have a 50 chevy deluxe has s 10 rearend 235 with edmonds intake duel webers and split ex manifolds. Same as you i have bluetooth in stock radio ans sub unnder seat
Awesome man! Wish I’d kept that inline 6 in there, lots of character with those old stovebolts.
Where you at? I have a Dent free quarter. scrapping the car soon
No worries, I dont plan on replacing any more sheet metal. Thank you though!
Hey awesome ride I really dig I have a 51 myself, what size rims and tires you run and what hub cap u get that from??
thanks man! Love the 49-52's! The wheels are 15x6" crager reverse chrome steelies painted black. The tires are 215/75/15's. I recently went with blackwall Continental CS5's and they look way better!
Nice job on the rear suspension! I’m working on a 50 Fleetline and have been looking at diff rear suspension options. I really like how you designed and built yours. I have the same rear axle too. The commentary in the vid was great info. Would you mind sharing what make/ model and year trailing arms you used? Is there much body roll in the rear? Have you experienced any binding in the rear suspension or do the bushings have enough play/ compression so no binding?
Thanks!!
So I used 99-04 Land Rover Discovery trailing arms. They make mounting a snap. www.ebay.com/itm/183803925113
Body roll in the rear is minimal, but controlled fairly well with the shocks and springs. Unfortunately, all the steel bracketry on the axle and the disco TA's added more unsprung weight than I would like. If I remember correctly, I'm running 175lb hyper coil springs in the rear. If I were to do it again, I'd run 150's, but I prefer a very soft ride. Currently, it rides like a modern car in the rear. Stiff, but not harsh. Its much more composed than the Mustang 2 front.
There is some amount of bind in the bushings as with most radius arm/trailing arm setups, but it occurs at fairly extreme articulation of the axle. When I had this setup installed without springs supported on jack stands, I could get a 6" height difference between the left and ride side of the axle before I felt any bind. During street driving, its non-existent. I've never had snap oversteer, wheels stay in excellent contact with the ground during road undulation mid-corner, and the ride is quite good considering. Ideally, I would have made this a converging trailing arm setup, so the angle at which the trailing arms is placed converges to some center-point (this reduces bind, gives better articulation), but given the space and my capabilities, I chose to go this route and it worked out pretty well, aside from being heavy.
I think between the coil overs ($700), Johny joints ($100), Trailing arms ($150), steel ($100), and misc stuff Im invested about $1100 or so in the setup when its all said and done.
@@78SilverBronco thanks for sharing so much info, really appreciate it. I haven’t bought an MII for the front yet. Not sure what to buy. Would you pick a different MII set up if you did it again? The kits are pricey so I need to do more research before buying.
@@100PercentYourNeighbor No problem! Honestly, I was super disappointed with my kit. I had broken welds, poor fitment, and manual steering on the M2 is very tough. If you add 2" drop spindles like I did, the cross member hit on everything unless you run stiffer springs. In general, its not a great setup
Depending on how low you want to go, there are a few options I'd consider.
1. Jaguar XJ6 front end - cheap, disc brakes, power steering, damn near bolt in, stock bolt pattern, etc. Ive driven a 50 with a Jag IFS, they drive amazing. You can only get down about 4" from stock if you go this route, but its very economical. A jag IFS should cost $200-$500. The HAMB has a few write ups on the swap. If I were to do it all over, this is what I would do and deal with not being as low.
2. Fatman Ultra-low kit - these allow power steering, raise the cross member higher than other mustang 2 kits (so you dont scrape) and you wont have to run drop spindles.
3. Lexus SC300/400 or Supra front end. These handle awesome, are close to a bolt in, good brakes, power steering, etc. Only major fabrication is required to mount your coil overs. This setup isnt great for getting low, unless you z the frame, but it would handle amazing.
4. Channel the body over a modern chassis - obviously a ton of work here, but if you get the right donor, it can be done without major troubles. 80's G-body el-caminos have nearly identical wheel base, factory 4 link rear, 10 bolt, 305 or 350's w/700r4's, and tons of aftermarket stuff (anything g-body bolts to it). The bulk of your work would be in floor fabrication and mounting the body, but it takes the guess work out of the suspension. Track widths and wheel base are nearly stock, keeping wheels in the fenders where they should be.
@@78SilverBronco again thanks for all the great info. I’ve got a lot to think about!
No problem! Good luck to you!
I have the same car
Where would you recommend getting parts from
For new parts like sheet metal, I have got them from Chev's of the 40's. For original parts usually Ebay or Old Car Parts in Portland.
are those mob steel / detroit steel wheels? what size?
These are just some 15" steelies I traded a friend for. I believe they are crager reverse chrome steelies painted black
No pinion angle adjustment?
No, its fixed. I get about a 1.5 degree change in angle depending on the static ride height. Just gotta be sure to check all of that before welding it in.
what rear are you using?
Im running a 2000 Ford Explorer 3.73 disc brake rear. I had to compensate for the offset driveline by modifying the floor under the rear seat. Also the pinion flange on the 8.8 is fairly large, so that can impact the floor as well.
How much are you asking for the 1950 chevy?
Its not for sale right now, thanks though!
@@78SilverBronco I’m interested when u decide to sell it what u think u take for it
@@tonyanthony9 I got one for sale where are u located
Uh the chevy truck steering column is worth a lot more than the stereo stuff