Applying Renderlite salt inhibiting plaster after DPC installation
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Watch Damp Sam apply and explain about salt inhibiting backing plaster Renderlite. Listen as he compares it with other backing plasters for use in dampproofing. Watching someone work is so relaxing.
Wouldn’t recommend it on solid walls you say?.....that very wall IS a solid wall! Headers and stretchers are clear to see! Should be lime plaster snd nothing else
Sorry should have said solid external walls, this is a party wall with next door. I suspect if you go though my videos I make tons of mistakes as I just do them without rehearsal. Good thing is you can always ask questions on here and I’ll try and answer them best I can.
Excellent vid - many thanks. Do I need breathable paint on top of limelite plastered areas? Any recommendation?
forbidden forest yes always use decoration that allows water vapour to pass through easily as the masonry will be drying out and this can take up to 12 months in wet thick walls. Keep away from silk vinyl, wall papers and tiles for that period.
Great video! Just wondering. Did you need to unibond the renderlite before skimming? Or can you go straight over it and only unibond the existing plaster above it?
Cheers
Chris Cooper hi, you can just skim the renderlite with the rubbed up float key. Just pva or sbr the tops to blend it in
Hi could you offer some advice, 1906 property 9" solid brick. Pebble dashed at the rear. Hacked off old lime mortar back to brick. What's best to render with interior, board ? External pebble dash may interfere ? South Wales. Can't seem to get any new ideas other than S&C with additives. Thanks
Jason lofgan hi Jason email me the details and pictures and I’ll take a look dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com
@@dampsam thanks, all sent
Should only be using lime plaster on a house that age cement belongs no where in houses that age!
Hey bro where did you get that hawk from its a beast let me know if you can cheers.
Tyson Worden it’s a Marshall town dry liners hand board, I think they sell them on Amazon. They are really light, people think they are heavy as they are big but it’s awesome for plastering with, great balance.
@@dampsam hey bro i cant find them can you send me a link if you can.
Little and often on the hand board , 3 scoops on a 16” is plenty enough and I always elevate my tub after it’s mixed so not bending over as much when scooping 😉 anything you do to look after your joints your body will thank you down the road.
Another tip I will offer is try to be super efficient; every time you stand up to move along the wall take a scoop or two of gear to top up your board whilst your up, or when you skimming lids and jump down to kick your hop up along top up the board whilst your on the floor.
A lot of spreads go for bigger boards because they spill off the side, practice turning the board after each pick up so you control where the plaster sits and take your gear off the angle of the board not the edge: that’s what works for me anyway! Don’t spill a drop unless the apprentice mixes the gear like piss 😂
@@kraigjohnstone3217 that’s great advice, I use to have a 16” for years before I upgraded. It’s everyone to their own but if you haven’t tried one you can’t tell if you like it. Most plasterer have more than one trowel so why stick to one hand board?
Best advise I’d give is keep yourself fit if you plaster. Just doing the work won’t cut it, you need to do other stuff and most I know do keep themselves in trim.
Hi,Simon..can you multi finish straight on the render lite the day after? Does it have suction control?
Axe Vincent hi, it depends how the wall dries out, personally I would try leave it at least 24 hours from the last trowel full but may be longer if the wall is ringing wet.
It is a cement based product and shrinkage will occur. If skimmed when it’s green expect the finish to pull in quick. If left over 24 hrs it will hang and is better to trowel up.
@@dampsam ideal..thanks,pal
How come you never used the tanking slurry
big wilfy bear hi 👋 thanks for watching. Waterproof (tankin) slurry is for below ground level, where there is raised ground level or barrier systems for Sulphate contamination. The only people that use these on normal walls are those that are not confident and have mis diagnosed the treatment. Waterproofing on normal walls will stop moisture coming in and going out creating a vapour check (barrier). This causes other damp issues.
A better cementitious waterproofing system is NatCem 35 as it’s waterproof and can be skimmed in an hour unlike slurries that need a render and 2 coats the 24 hours between each costing more in man hours and materials.
Ok thanks for the reply you videos are boss for extra learning 👍👍
Did you skim with thistle board or renderlite finish? Bit pricey all this lime stuff!
forbidden forest hi we use multi finish to skim the renderlite but there is a high impact finish that is cement based that was developed to be used with the renderlite which is just limelite re packaged for Sovereign.
@@dampsam cheers simon - wont the gysum multi stop the limelite from breathing boss? dont wanna go to all't trouble then ruin by sealing if you ken. anything specil in't multi?
forbidden forest multi finish doesn’t seal anything in it allows water vapour to pass through, renderlite is the anti sulphate and stops salts migrating.
@@dampsam Thanks Simon, you're a legend. Gonna use salt soln, then Limelite to double up then multi on old sandstone walls but wonderin' if there's owt I should add to bottom to stop skirting getting damp. Not really a straight line to throw dryzone sticks in, see. Thinking about SBR cement slurry at bottom nice and thick but is this enough with Limelite or should I go down the belt and braces route with K11. Don't want to lift floor tiles really.
forbidden forest hi mate, I’ll be doing the same as you this week. Chemical dpc, salt neutraliser, renderlite, multi finish.
How did you get on with it?
Cheers