My lower control arm bushings looked good too. They weren't. Removal of the old control arm busing wasn't difficult. Installing the new ones was a major PITA. I used a C clamp style puller for removal. For installation I made a custom tool from an old scissor jack. The aftermarket bushing sleeves (Moog, Mevotech, etc) are 1.5-2mm thicker vs the OEM Mazda bushings. Get the Mazda bushings and deep freeze them before installing.
I’ll have to keep an eye on them but they definitely look like it would be a PITA to get out/put in without the right tool. Appreciate the good info on this, I’ll pin this for others to see it if they got to do it! Or for when I need to do it lol
Good info man saved me some time. Hope Mazda still has some lol. Probably do, I suppose it's not commonly replaced. My 91 Mazda B2600i SE Excab has 250k on it, steering feels tighter and better than a lot of newer trucks with 1/4 of the miles. Still I got all Proforge gear to replace everything as I'm restoring/building the truck. Man I love there's trucks. I've had 5 of them, never had to do a clutch or brakes. Never left me stranded. I've put an ign module in on side of road and had sn alternator die that's about it. One new thing I had happened (only on the FI engines) is engine temp sensor went bad and ran super rich, no start/idle fluctuated, and died, low power. If you have FI engine and run rich low power, idle hangs, (cold idle intermittent) check coolant sensor for Coolant/ECU. Walker makes one w/connector. My truck runs like new still. Literally got every option to add to this thing, Factory a/c, center console, tilt, Honda pwr window motors, pwr locks/alarm/rem start. factory pwr steering/tech truck luckily. Have speeduino and a Gt28rs turbo I'm building an engine for. Might keep it static dropped w/sway bars, and coilovers possibly, or bags can't decide yet. Nice clean truck man.
The suspension must be compress under pressure for the end links to go in and then tighten. Basically all suspension parts must be tighten under load. You can also jack up the control arm, then tighten it.
So I noticed you did the ball joint flip on your stock control arms with that being said with the lowering arms did you leave the ball joints on the top of the arm or back where it was when stock
@@FlakeGarage I ordered the plates to sit mine on top wif I was to do this new arm and and put the ball joint on top would sit lower or still be the same height
If you put it on top it should sit lower just watch out for the wheels hitting the control arm potentially depending on their size since you are pushing things up. I’d guesstimate maybe about half inch more low
Kept the oem but I hooked everything once it was on the ground and just barely raised. It fit fine then and I believe it’s recommended to hook the sway bar on the ground
it should also fit the b2600 as long as it's not the 4x4 model (there might be some differences there) the main difference between the 2600 and the other two is the engine for the most part but body and suspension should be the same for the most part
These shocks have been discontinued, model 10102E and were advertised as Mazda B2200 shocks in some places but again, the middle part needed to be adjusted down as it was too big for the control arm, whether it was grinded or swapped for correct spacer
Cool video brother. Whats up with the hardbody? I just had my back operation and wont be 100 for a while so my trucks are all in need of work, and updates. Can’t make videos due to my surgery. Hope all is well
Hey Dina! glad your surgery went well brother. Bryan just been busy with life that his hardbody has been on the backburner bro, one of these days we'll have it back on the channel but idk when
@FlakeGarage Checking in to see how the LCAs have been performing. I’ve been pondering to purchase these but cant get over the $400 tag. Maybe your input can help with my decision.
Did you order through their site? I got mine pretty quickly, I think overall it took 5 days to ship after I placed my order and a few more days for me to get it. Maybe 2 weeks total. 205/40/16
Hey bro, I follow you on RUclips. I Have a 1990 mazda b2200 and I have a question. I watched your video on how to change out the lower control arm to a 3 inch drop. I did everything correct but I’m having a problem. My tire keeps coming up and hitting the fender as I’m driving, I put bigger bump. Stop in there and raise the torsion bars some But I don’t understand why it’s hitting scraping as I’m hitting any little bump I test drove it myself and it was fine but when I put my wife in the truck it started scraping everywhere like it went down even when i hit the brakes too hard, I do have the DJM recommended shocks any words of knowledge will be greatly appreciated I watched your RUclips video and it showed me how to change out my lower control arms. Thank you
Not sure, could be the torsion bars might need to be reindexed a tooth more or they might be worn out if they aren't holding much. I'd check all bolts again and make sure nothing is loose. Maybe someone else might have more insight
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
My lower control arm bushings looked good too. They weren't.
Removal of the old control arm busing wasn't difficult.
Installing the new ones was a major PITA.
I used a C clamp style puller for removal. For installation I made a custom tool from an old scissor jack.
The aftermarket bushing sleeves (Moog, Mevotech, etc) are 1.5-2mm thicker vs the OEM Mazda bushings.
Get the Mazda bushings and deep freeze them before installing.
I’ll have to keep an eye on them but they definitely look like it would be a PITA to get out/put in without the right tool. Appreciate the good info on this, I’ll pin this for others to see it if they got to do it! Or for when I need to do it lol
You could probably use an ATV swingarm bearing tool to remove that bushing. The tool is only about $35
This is solid info right here. Thank you for sharing.
Good info man saved me some time. Hope Mazda still has some lol. Probably do, I suppose it's not commonly replaced. My 91 Mazda B2600i SE Excab has 250k on it, steering feels tighter and better than a lot of newer trucks with 1/4 of the miles. Still I got all Proforge gear to replace everything as I'm restoring/building the truck. Man I love there's trucks. I've had 5 of them, never had to do a clutch or brakes. Never left me stranded. I've put an ign module in on side of road and had sn alternator die that's about it. One new thing I had happened (only on the FI engines) is engine temp sensor went bad and ran super rich, no start/idle fluctuated, and died, low power. If you have FI engine and run rich low power, idle hangs, (cold idle intermittent) check coolant sensor for Coolant/ECU. Walker makes one w/connector. My truck runs like new still. Literally got every option to add to this thing, Factory a/c, center console, tilt, Honda pwr window motors, pwr locks/alarm/rem start. factory pwr steering/tech truck luckily. Have speeduino and a Gt28rs turbo I'm building an engine for. Might keep it static dropped w/sway bars, and coilovers possibly, or bags can't decide yet. Nice clean truck man.
The suspension must be compress under pressure for the end links to go in and then tighten. Basically all suspension parts must be tighten under load. You can also jack up the control arm, then tighten it.
Yeah ended up lowering the truck and putting the end links once the suspension was compressed. They went in without much problem then
Looking good dude. Wish my 84 had torsion bars.
did the 84 had springs? not too familiar with the older models
Nice job bro looks good
Thanks bro!
saludos compañero desde Alajuela,,San José COSTA RICA ecxelemtes tus videos
is there a LCA for Ford COURIER 1994
Do you think its possible to triangulate these control arms?
Man I don't know for sure, I think you'd be better off getting something custom done for that honestly since these are not cheap to begin with
@@FlakeGarage thanks bro. I bought mine in like 2006 lol i dont even know what they cost back then. Ill check them out and get back to u
So I noticed you did the ball joint flip on your stock control arms with that being said with the lowering arms did you leave the ball joints on the top of the arm or back where it was when stock
I put them back to the stock position under the control arms
@@FlakeGarage I ordered the plates to sit mine on top wif I was to do this new arm and and put the ball joint on top would sit lower or still be the same height
If you put it on top it should sit lower just watch out for the wheels hitting the control arm potentially depending on their size since you are pushing things up. I’d guesstimate maybe about half inch more low
Did you ever have an issue with the control arm hitting the header?
I've heard of people with this issue but I haven't had it myself, they do sit close but no contact has been made
What sway bar links you end up using my oem seem too long
Kept the oem but I hooked everything once it was on the ground and just barely raised. It fit fine then and I believe it’s recommended to hook the sway bar on the ground
Would all this fit a 1991 Mazda B2600? I’m new to mini trucks. I’m not sure if the B2000, B2200 and B2600 have different structures
it should also fit the b2600 as long as it's not the 4x4 model (there might be some differences there) the main difference between the 2600 and the other two is the engine for the most part but body and suspension should be the same for the most part
will this fit on my 1983 Mazda b2000
I don’t think so, this is for 86-93 b2000/b2200
What Beltech shocks did you use? Obviously they don't make any for Mazda.
These shocks have been discontinued, model 10102E and were advertised as Mazda B2200 shocks in some places but again, the middle part needed to be adjusted down as it was too big for the control arm, whether it was grinded or swapped for correct spacer
What year is your b2000?
87
Do you know if the early 80s use same components? Have an 83 and an 84 that need some attention
This message has been officially ……approved
Seymour approved 😎
Cool video brother. Whats up with the hardbody? I just had my back operation and wont be 100 for a while so my trucks are all in need of work, and updates. Can’t make videos due to my surgery. Hope all is well
Hey Dina! glad your surgery went well brother. Bryan just been busy with life that his hardbody has been on the backburner bro, one of these days we'll have it back on the channel but idk when
@FlakeGarage Checking in to see how the LCAs have been performing. I’ve been pondering to purchase these but cant get over the $400 tag. Maybe your input can help with my decision.
They are definitely pricey but they have been working out fine so far. No issues or anything else since install
How long did it take to receive your parts from djm ive been waiting 3 weeks y nada and also what size tire are you running
Did you order through their site? I got mine pretty quickly, I think overall it took 5 days to ship after I placed my order and a few more days for me to get it. Maybe 2 weeks total. 205/40/16
Hey bro, I follow you on RUclips. I Have a 1990 mazda b2200 and I have a question. I watched your video on how to change out the lower control arm to a 3 inch drop. I did everything correct but I’m having a problem. My tire keeps coming up and hitting the fender as I’m driving, I put bigger bump. Stop in there and raise the torsion bars some But I don’t understand why it’s hitting scraping as I’m hitting any little bump I test drove it myself and it was fine but when I put my wife in the truck it started scraping everywhere like it went down even when i hit the brakes too hard, I do have the DJM recommended shocks any words of knowledge will be greatly appreciated I watched your RUclips video and it showed me how to change out my lower control arms. Thank you
Not sure, could be the torsion bars might need to be reindexed a tooth more or they might be worn out if they aren't holding much. I'd check all bolts again and make sure nothing is loose. Maybe someone else might have more insight