Hi Gregory . Aye that is one of those projects when you look at it and see all the prep, aghhhhhh. But once you are passed that stage you feel you will get there. Big project on your own. Your the man. Cheers Stevie in Glasgow , Scotland
Patience is the key for that job … I tip my hat to you sir for taking that job on it does look like a bit of a nightmare especially on your own, I’m sure you’ll make a great job of it in the end …. All the best from here in the uk 👍
Thanks so much for sharing this video, has been super helpful, do you have a video on doing the ceiling? I'm using sikka too but can't seem to get it to stay in the gaps long enough to run my finger.... whatam I doing wrong? Cheers
I dare say you used 3x20 gap boxes on that, come on mate haha I can't believe they didn't just Sheet over it, I know is a classic but MAN that would be incredibly tedious. Fair play to you sir!!
It was actually origionally sheeted and they were removed, that's where the thousands of nail holes come from. I think I'm up to 4 cases of caulking and still need a couple more
Enjoy your work, i've become a fan of the oil based undercoat. I found i can't trust the water based. What is the best way to remove dried oil based paint from polished timber floors and tiles etc?
No sanding when using oil based undercoat, if you sand first it only causes double handling and dust, then i have to wipe or wash before i can apply the undercoat or gap.
My old man, has a little rag and a bucket, and about a thousand other things to gap, drives me up the bloody wall. Gaps gun, 1 finger. Wipe it on the same side every time, then cut it off every day.
@@palmerpalmer1538 i don't think so, I even painted my tiles on my step sill ten years ago with oil based undercoat and it only starting to lift now and we walk on it 20 times a day. Even the steel posts in my fence are painted with it.
I feel great joy, satisfaction and gratitude, I am so grateful, I will continue to raise good images, I am interested and watching well, I sincerely wish you success,👍👍💦💦👌👌큰기쁨과 만족감과 고마움을 느끼게합니다,,너무감사합니다,,앞으로도 좋은 영상 만이올려주세요,,만은 관심을가지고 잘보고있습니다,,진심으로 당신의 성공을 기원합니다,
For caulking I’ve went back to Dunlop. Here in U.K. I ve found majority of the caulking we can get fails. The Dulux U.K. one os really poor. I am a big fan of Dulux ( pricey but majority of products are good ) but they need to ditch that caulking. I recently tried isomat. It’s ok but so far dunlop is my go to. Not sure who may stock sika in Scotland. 🏴👍
I've never seen dunlop gaps here,sika is a big name brand for expansion silicone here so a trustworthy company. What makes sika so good is after caulking these huge gaps, they did not open back up,sticks amazing, its priced good, doesn't run out the tube and doesn't give an after taste in my mouth.
@@ThePa1nterhowto lol. Not tasted the Dunlop yet. 🤪 Yeah If the Sika deals with those big gaps and doesn’t need another application then that’s a good product.
Hey mate just wondering if you have tried the yellow dripless gap gun ? I think that's even the brand name they are brilliant so much less mess I couldn't go back to a standard one now.
The ones I use are dripless ets 2 & 3000 yellow , I originally imported them into Australia a couple years ago and that's the reason we have them here now.
Your finger will be sore after all that gapping!! If ever in doubt use oil based undercoat. I much prefer repaints over new work - always something different
wow good job my friend watching live
Thanks for dropping in
You are doing an incredible job my friend.
Thank you
Hi Gregory . Aye that is one of those projects when you look at it and see all the prep, aghhhhhh. But once you are passed that stage you feel you will get there. Big project on your own. Your the man. Cheers Stevie in Glasgow , Scotland
Hi Stevie, yes its a horror house for sure, I've only done a couple days in it so far, goodness know what I'm yet to encounter
Professional job from heart 👍👍
Thanks Zac ,this ones a beast
Patience is the key for that job … I tip my hat to you sir for taking that job on it does look like a bit of a nightmare especially on your own, I’m sure you’ll make a great job of it in the end …. All the best from here in the uk 👍
Thank you, one day at a time
Thanks so much for sharing this video, has been super helpful, do you have a video on doing the ceiling? I'm using sikka too but can't seem to get it to stay in the gaps long enough to run my finger.... whatam I doing wrong? Cheers
I do not cut the tip on my tube, it sounds like you are not forcing enough in the gap.
I dare say you used 3x20 gap boxes on that, come on mate haha I can't believe they didn't just Sheet over it, I know is a classic but MAN that would be incredibly tedious. Fair play to you sir!!
It was actually origionally sheeted and they were removed, that's where the thousands of nail holes come from. I think I'm up to 4 cases of caulking and still need a couple more
@@ThePa1nterhowto hope your on the hourly haha!
@@onlymemories2595 Only a fool would take this on with a quote
@@ThePa1nterhowto btw I got those two juggernaut frames, and I can't thank ya enough haha. GAME CHANGERS.
@@onlymemories2595 Thats great, ,never will you ever look at that other shite again.
Some caulking to do there Gregg bet that took a few boxes of caulk lol
Yes quite a few with more to go
@@ThePa1nterhowto I bet Gregg good luck happy caulking haha
I'll cheer you in Korea
Thanks for visiting from Korea
Enjoy your work, i've become a fan of the oil based undercoat. I found i can't trust the water based. What is the best way to remove dried oil based paint from polished timber floors and tiles etc?
The tiles should be fine cleaned with thinners, the polished floor you will need to be very careful
Wow Amazing job, did you sand before applying the oil base undercoat?
No sanding when using oil based undercoat, if you sand first it only causes double handling and dust, then i have to wipe or wash before i can apply the undercoat or gap.
Pro job mate like always , do you sand before applying undercoat?
Not if I use oil based like this, I prep and sand after
1 step dulux is oil base is the best fort sure i use it on sash windows and metal shield or full gloss super enamel.
It doesn't sand as well as the dulux professional qd oil undercoat
100% 🤙🤙🤟💪
When you cut in your oil undercoat with a brush do you thin the undercoat in the pot at all?
Depends on the paint and weather ,but usually it's good to thin a little but not to much.
@@ThePa1nterhowto what would you say just acouple drops? 70 degrees ish interior painting
@@palmerpalmer1538 just try without and add as you need it for brush control and flow
Can I roll on with this primer.
And Is it possible to use water based paint over the oil primer.
Sorry to be a pain. I appreciate your time.
Yes,all this house is rolled and you can use water based paint over it,no problems
My old man, has a little rag and a bucket, and about a thousand other things to gap, drives me up the bloody wall. Gaps gun, 1 finger. Wipe it on the same side every time, then cut it off every day.
Nice and simple, no use complicating things that already work
I never have good luck with putting oil over glossy trim and doors without a scuff. I wish I had that one step stuff..
I don't know what's available for you there, but any quick dry oil undercoat is great.
I prefer oil undercoat. Does oil seal dirt? Like hand prints on doors and door frames?
@@palmerpalmer1538 yes absaloutly
@@ThePa1nterhowto is there anything oil won’t stick to directly?
@@palmerpalmer1538 i don't think so, I even painted my tiles on my step sill ten years ago with oil based undercoat and it only starting to lift now and we walk on it 20 times a day. Even the steel posts in my fence are painted with it.
I feel great joy, satisfaction and gratitude, I am so grateful, I will continue to raise good images, I am interested and watching well, I sincerely wish you success,👍👍💦💦👌👌큰기쁨과 만족감과 고마움을 느끼게합니다,,너무감사합니다,,앞으로도 좋은 영상 만이올려주세요,,만은 관심을가지고 잘보고있습니다,,진심으로 당신의 성공을 기원합니다,
youtube는 우리가 하는 일에 대한 아이디어를 공유할 수 있는 좋은 장소입니다. RUclips 친구가 될 수 있어 기쁩니다. 나는 당신의 비디오를 더보고 싶어
For caulking I’ve went back to Dunlop. Here in U.K. I ve found majority of the caulking we can get fails. The Dulux U.K. one os really poor. I am a big fan of Dulux ( pricey but majority of products are good ) but they need to ditch that caulking. I recently tried isomat. It’s ok but so far dunlop is my go to. Not sure who may stock sika in Scotland. 🏴👍
I've never seen dunlop gaps here,sika is a big name brand for expansion silicone here so a trustworthy company. What makes sika so good is after caulking these huge gaps, they did not open back up,sticks amazing, its priced good, doesn't run out the tube and doesn't give an after taste in my mouth.
@@ThePa1nterhowto lol. Not tasted the Dunlop yet. 🤪 Yeah If the Sika deals with those big gaps and doesn’t need another application then that’s a good product.
Try Soudal
That Sika is far superior to soudal
Hey mate just wondering if you have tried the yellow dripless gap gun ? I think that's even the brand name they are brilliant so much less mess I couldn't go back to a standard one now.
The ones I use are dripless ets 2 & 3000 yellow , I originally imported them into Australia a couple years ago and that's the reason we have them here now.
@@ThePa1nterhowto awesome mate yea I only just found them in NZ recently ets3000 work great keep up the good work happy gapping
Your finger will be sore after all that gapping!! If ever in doubt use oil based undercoat. I much prefer repaints over new work - always something different
This house definitely gives the fingers a work out lol
Bloody hell Greg that's a lot of caulking to do mate . I hope you didn't get what i call "Caulkers finger"....sore as hell.
There were a couple of my fingers that blew out