I have been doing DYI projects to my homes for over 30 years. I recently moved into a new home and wanted to tackle replacing my builder grade 3" baseboards with a 7.5" baseboard. It took me a long time to do the first bedroom and to get it right. I'm so glad I found your channel and have loved the tips and tricks you give. I now use your CA glue and bench dog bullnose finder when installing my baseboard. It has made my life so much easier and my final product more professional. Thanks so much!! Next project-wainscoting! Please keep your videos coming as they are so helpful.
Man, your love of this is really infectious. I've been watching for weeks and, now in my new (1977)house, can't wait to start in on it. You spread confidence. Thanks.
Right? I'm moving in Spring/early Summer 2020. Don't know if I can hold out in putting in tons of finish work between now and then. Guess it is a man thing.....
Thank you for the great videos. I enjoy watching them and love to see how people do things differently than I do. I have been a general contractor for 15 years and still love learning new ways to do things. Thank you for taking the time to put these together.
WoW,... my brother's in-laws are General Contractors & are very passionate about the craftsmanship. Definitely going to purchase a few of these for them & myself. I am a novice, however, eager to always learn new things of the trade. Thank you
Sr,you are a very good finish carpenter,I really like your tricks and tomorrow morning I am going to run to buy this tool,I am installing baseboard the hard way for the last 30 years.
Great video! Thanks for sharing this info. Currently on a large LVP and carpet install in Ca. along with changing out all of the 2" base to 4.5" along with several bullnose corners. This tool gauge will come real handy.
I've learned a lot from this channel.... I've also learned that not everything is perfect in average houses.... I'm always finding heavy mud from drywallers in corners... therefore the tool doesn't work....now you're doing drywall millwork....(cutting out excess mud) it's frustrating
You have help me install several jobs and you don’t even know it. You also have helped take my trim carpentry to another level with excellent tips and advice. Many thanks bro!
Great work. Thanks for sharing 👍 I hope you succeed in the business. Im a 30 yr veteran and I'd like to work with a guy like you. I think anyone who does could learn alot. You might even learn a trick or two. Thanks
I have watched this guys videos many times and he sure seems like the ultimate professional. Great explanations and great results. I would hire him if he lived in my area for sure.
Your RUclips channel is totally awesome. If you're ever in Westchester let me know, I have about two weeks work for you. Your breed is rare, caring and offering your developed knowledge.
Just found your channel a day or two ago and I am really enjoying your content as I am developing an interest in learning finish carpentry skills. I appreciate what you’ve said in other videos about going in a particular direction rather than being an everything man. Which, granted, has given me a start but I find myself more interested in tying it all together. I’ll bet you guys reap a great sense of reward. Although I don’t have a formal point of reference as to true finish carpentry, you seem to do exceptional work and take genuine pride in what you do. Number one rule of success in my opinion. Subscribed.
That is a really sweet tool! I actually made a few templates (base, chair rail, crown..) for that exact scenario going around bull nose corners, I did the work to get the miters fitting good on small pieces, cut the little middle piece down about ¾, and then glued them together, creating that exact tool! I only wish I had thought to patent that years ago... lol 🤷♂️
I agree these are great tools! Before these I used to make site built versions using scrapes of wood, but I found I like using these much better. I discovered them the same way you did online by accident lol. One thing, you don't really need two for a wall with two outside corners. Simply mark one end, and tack it in at the other end. Then hook on the tool and measure to the mark. Keep up the work on your great videos!
Brilliant content!! Question: in a house with rounded drywall corners, how do you go about trimming out any bullnose angles that are not 90....do you go back to 2-cuts or still do a 4-cut corner, figuring out the angles and the width of the center piece? Thanks you!
From one tradesman to another, great great work. I love your passion for your work and we don't get a lot of people like yourself who cares about the job and not the money (of course that's why we do it) Nice work brotha
The problem with bullnose is the the drywall. You see how the tool rocks back and forth? That's because the mud took weeks to finally dry, it shrank which leaves that dip from the corner back about 1 foot in either direction. So when you nail the crown in place it will open up the 22.5* miters even after you glue it. It might not at first, but eventually it will from heat expansion and cold contraction. It's frustrating when you get that call a year or two later and the customer is complaining about gaps opening up in their trim. What i do is nail at the corner edges right at the bullnose on the long pieces and i let the crown float which leaves a gap on the underside for about a foot until it flush with the wall, then i start my string of nails outwards at that point. Just fill that foot gap with latex caulk and those miters will never open up. Cool tool btw. Got to gets me one. :)
I see what your saying and i forgot to mention a critical thing. After you caulk that gap upon initially installing the trim, you need to come back about a week later and nail it down after the caulk has dried somewhat. Caulk can talk along time to dry given the conditions. Usually a week wait is sufficient to nail this area i'm talking about. I also do all this weeks before filling nail holes and sanding wood putty and finally painting. It's not ideal for the company that just wants to come in and get the job done, but when you're working on a home for weeks or several months you have the leisure to do it the right way. So if i was you i would nail that area that continues to separate as long as you can hit a stud, re caulk it, paint it, and be done.
One last thing i'd like to mention.. there are areas that will always move or flex no matter what. Staircases, upper floors, places around door frames, ect.. I use liquid nails, screws, bear claws, biscuit type joints, and several other types of hardware in these areas. You will always have 1 or 2 sides of the structure that will be baked by the Suns heat at some point in the year. Heat expansion causes most of the issues.I always have something i know will work for any situation. This is based on 25 years experience of figuring out how to deal with and correct problematic trim work. Reality is things will always break but there are several ways to prevent it from happening for decades if you know what you're doing and you use the right materials.
It's a given that stuff will open up in Florida. It keeps the painters in job security mode....lol. The climate is just too brutal. You hang kiln dried trim in a 50% humidity air conditioned home and things are bound to move and crack over time. If you have an air conditioned environment to store the material for a week, I.E., the type of climate the trim will be installed in, that reduces the chances of problems down the road. Acclimatizing seems to be the best action for the best job. I believe we will never see a perfect drywall finish job, No money in that....lol.
matttafakt ITS ALLWAYS the wall its the contractors framing drywall i shimming install etc tolerances usually after text paint looks good with no seams or over protrusions but the finishers have to get smart
Most of tbe shrinking is done in a day or 2.. Most of the gap is from finishers that dont run enough mud on the corners or pull it off too tight.. Check the corner with a 12= knife..after you sand.. There is always light ..
That tool company should also make a very similar tool for us painters that will give us the center mark of that bullnose for when the homeowner wants the wall colour to change at the center of that bullnose. That way we can mark the center from top to bottom and lay down a perfectly centered line of tape.
Video suggestion: After watching multiple videos I learned to know you a little bit and can tell you're a craftsman. So it would be very cool to see a project top 5 or top 10 video about what kind of project you enjoyed most doing or where you are most proud of. Because if you think it's good, it must be top class.
I really enjoy watching your videos Bro. I like how you go thru the tools you use and how you go thru the steps from start to finished product on every video you do. Hopefully you keep making videos. My all time favorites shows to watch are The Walking Dead and DFW Crown. Keep up the awesome work.
I love your videos. Thanks so much. I just got the Starrett miter protractor by your recommendation. Looking forward to trying it out. Looks like it beats holding two pieces of trim at the corner and scribing one of them against the other and using another tool to find out what that scribed angle is...
Hi @Finish Carpentry TV did u take that measurement with your tape from the actual wall that the other crown molding is on to your line you made with that bullnose tool….or u had your tape touching the crown molding that’s up on the wall already? Please explain the best way to help me understand brutha….thank you
In the north east bull nose corner bead is nearly non existent. I never had to trim around one. They sure make a lot more work. I'm always making a jig or guide for some repetitive situation. Love your channel. Always learning something new
in the midwest ive never seen it either, seems pretty dumb to make that much more work for something that in my opinion looks worse. he was also talking in another video about how allot of new houses now also have curved walls that they have to use flexable rubber trim on, again this seems unnessisarily troublesome for questionable benifit.
It's being used, mostly in higher end buildings/houses...and after you do a couple it's pretty simple, just double 22.5s on the corner piece, and usually 5/8" wide...
I really did not understand what you meant by the measurements until you showed it up against the molding. Thanks for the visual. I'm one of the need to see it to learn... Visual learner.
Watching your work, all I can say is WOW. I have always done the frame work,hangin drywall etc, don’t mud or paint, long story! Ok with that said I am going to try crown and trim for the 1st time, you make it look not as scary. If you could just do a beginners basics video, I understand the how to look things, just the where to start etc.Thanks again , oh yea dawn dish soap and softener salt and water will get rid of your thistles
Couple things. If you hold that tool up to the ceiling and mark the lower two grooves it puts your lines at the same spot. Also the return around the corner could’ve been 1/4-3/8 longer by the looks of it to flush out a little better and the last piece was a little thick. Left a little gap. Other wise like the videos. Lot of neat projects to watch and see people who do still care about quality and craftsmanship. I do all custom copper work on interior and exterior of multi million dollar homes and quality is of utmost importance to me. Which doesn’t seem to be the case for the framers I follow.
I was doing the same holding up prepped ones then marking. As for this tool how does it work if your bull noses are not perfect 90 degrees. While doing my vinyl flooring I had to do a million custom angels on all bull messes because of the turns not being square
I've always just measured to the corner and looked at my tape. I put the edge of my tape flush with the wall and take the measurement almost an 1/8th of an inch past where the wall starts to move away from my tape so just a hair into the radius. After all the trim is cut I cut a bunch of corners at at about 9/16ths. A bunch of them a hair big and a bunch of them a hair small. Walk around and nail trim or crown on and grab a corner that fits perfect. No messing around with marks and cutting perfect prices just cut everything and start installing
you can make a small mock up of crown or base/hotglue 3-6 inch piece and 5/8 corner radius if you cut 1 inch off the height of radius piecs you leave a place to slide pencil up and down to mark wall. then if drywall has smaller radius /and there are/make to fit and can lose or not pay for store bought one.
I really enjoy your videos and watching your work! Excellent. For a new home improver, it would be very helpful to have step by step guides for both crown and floor molding, as well as cabinet molding. Thanks much.
I've been watching all your video's to learn how to do trim work in my house. You're great at explaining things. For the real beginner could you do a video explaining the most common moulding you can get and what you can do with it? For example, is shoe moulding just for baseboards?
When trimming bullnose corners I always cut a pile of corners of slightly varying widths (9/16", 5/8", 11/16", little strong, little weak..) which can help compensate for walls/mud/etc...
Love your love for your craft! Where did you get that pencil attached to your belt? I spend more time looking for my pencil then I do getting work done.
this is an oldwll er thread so maybe no one will see this. I have one of those but many of my drywall outside corners do not come out to 90 degrees. (I blame it on my drywall mud guy). he didn't backfill right to the edge of the bullnose so it's kind of concave there instead of flat. But whatever, i have one of these tools and am unsure if it's useful because if i push it flush against, say the left wall, there's a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap on the right wall between the wall and the inside flat part of the tool. Any suggestions?
Does anyone else beside me use a nailing strip? Two sides of the room can be nailed top and bottom to hold in place but other two sides you hit a stud but the top is just into the ceiling and not long after the caulk will tear away and leave a gap. A nailing strip or blocks give you something solid to attach to. Richard as always another nice video.
Clint Price There should be framing all around the edge of the ceiling that the drywall attaches to, you angle your nails to hit that. No extra nailer boards required. Are you using 2.5" finish nails?
Depending on the size of the crown I use blocking. It's good to nail to one surface plane (wall or ceiling) only if you're able to in order to lessen the visual problems caused by lifting trusses or rafters. Unfortunately, that's a problem that is best tackled in the framing phase of construction, so as usual the finish carpenters get to make everyone else's work look good. 😉
You have great methods it shows in your results. The use of that ca glue is awesome but why don’t you meet your seams on a flat surface? Free hands = more sanding
How would you recommend transition from a large to small molding? I have 19' ceilings, but the room has a hallway with banisters. Im looking at installing 4pc crown in the main room (center point of the enter house). There is no way it would look proper to do that molding all the way around. The tricky part is, one corner, I can just stop, as it wraps out of sight of the main room. The other side it goes into the stairwell, then down the hallway. I could post some pictures if you're interested... But the basic question is how and when to transition different size molding.
Neat layout tool! I am surprised to see CA glue on a worksite: We use it in the film biz extensively, not necessarily for mouldings, so it's cool to see it getting more use in the world. Urban legend has it that it was developed for field sutures in Vietnam.
I’ve done crown Moulding in homes with long walks, the tool is good but if you get walls that aren’t flat your measurements are going to be short. Literally cut the inside corner first, then put the crown on the wall and marked the length off the wall.
Paused it at 2min. Got on Amazon and bought 4. I've been a trim carpenter for 20years. Can't wait to use them! Thanks Man!
Why buy 4... 30 bucks each ! Just make a jig ....
@@chchmura316 i can literally make one out of a hinge.... or form it and make it out of fiberglass or acrylic
@@chchmura316 in about ten minutes. ... i believe they have hinges that look like this already actually
@@chchmura316 ikr...30 per piece they're making a killing for a little piece of plastic. ..lol
Shawn Anderson So why not make your own brand and sell it for half the price! I'd be buying one for sure!!!
I have been doing DYI projects to my homes for over 30 years. I recently moved into a new home and wanted to tackle replacing my builder grade 3" baseboards with a 7.5" baseboard. It took me a long time to do the first bedroom and to get it right. I'm so glad I found your channel and have loved the tips and tricks you give. I now use your CA glue and bench dog bullnose finder when installing my baseboard. It has made my life so much easier and my final product more professional. Thanks so much!! Next project-wainscoting! Please keep your videos coming as they are so helpful.
Such an humble bloke...nice to watch
Man, your love of this is really infectious. I've been watching for weeks and, now in my new (1977)house, can't wait to start in on it. You spread confidence. Thanks.
NMranchhand thanks for watching. Hope the house goes well
Great tool man
Right? I'm moving in Spring/early Summer 2020. Don't know if I can hold out in putting in tons of finish work between now and then. Guess it is a man thing.....
That said, I almost feel sorry for my next house......
Thank you for the great videos. I enjoy watching them and love to see how people do things differently than I do. I have been a general contractor for 15 years and still love learning new ways to do things. Thank you for taking the time to put these together.
I been watching a lot of your videos and man you became my teacher. Thanks for your knowledge.
WoW,... my brother's in-laws are General Contractors & are very passionate about the craftsmanship. Definitely going to purchase a few of these for them & myself. I am a novice, however, eager to always learn new things of the trade. Thank you
DAYUM, YOU'RE GOOD! Thanks for the videos. I've got a whole house to trim & I'm frankly terrified, but your videos are very encouraging.
Professional craftsman that’s proud of his trade. Really don’t see young guys like this often, sadly.
I've had one of these for years. Love it!
Sr,you are a very good finish carpenter,I really like your tricks and tomorrow morning I am going to run to buy this tool,I am installing baseboard the hard way for the last 30 years.
Great video! Thanks for sharing this info. Currently on a large LVP and carpet install in Ca. along with changing out all of the 2" base to 4.5" along with several bullnose corners. This tool gauge will come real handy.
good to see a young man who takes pride in his work.. great video . u.k
Thanks for making clear, easy to understand videos. Keep up the great job!
I've learned a lot from this channel.... I've also learned that not everything is perfect in average houses.... I'm always finding heavy mud from drywallers in corners... therefore the tool doesn't work....now you're doing drywall millwork....(cutting out excess mud) it's frustrating
Need you here. Please advise anyone available in Glendale AZ. Very few professionals like you anymore. Enjoy watching and learning🤩
You have help me install several jobs and you don’t even know it. You also have helped take my trim carpentry to another level with excellent tips and advice. Many thanks bro!
He did a sound effect for the hammer, I love it :) that deserves a thumbs up.
Great work. Thanks for sharing 👍 I hope you succeed in the business. Im a 30 yr veteran and I'd like to work with a guy like you. I think anyone who does could learn alot. You might even learn a trick or two. Thanks
The enthusiasm is through the roof!
I have watched this guys videos many times and he sure seems like the ultimate professional. Great explanations and great results. I would hire him if he lived in my area for sure.
I'm not a Carpenter...just so interesting how you explain everything...Video...very enjoyable
Your RUclips channel is totally awesome. If you're ever in Westchester let me know, I have about two weeks work for you. Your breed is rare, caring and offering your developed knowledge.
Just found your channel a day or two ago and I am really enjoying your content as I am developing an interest in learning finish carpentry skills. I appreciate what you’ve said in other videos about going in a particular direction rather than being an everything man. Which, granted, has given me a start but I find myself more interested in tying it all together. I’ll bet you guys reap a great sense of reward. Although I don’t have a formal point of reference as to true finish carpentry, you seem to do exceptional work and take genuine pride in what you do. Number one rule of success in my opinion. Subscribed.
You’re the weekend warriors go-to guy....what a pro.
That is a really sweet tool! I actually made a few templates (base, chair rail, crown..) for that exact scenario going around bull nose corners, I did the work to get the miters fitting good on small pieces, cut the little middle piece down about ¾, and then glued them together, creating that exact tool! I only wish I had thought to patent that years ago... lol 🤷♂️
Nothing better than this guy.
Glad you're not one of those guys that won't share the tricks. To many people " I learned the hard way, so should you". Thank you
I agree these are great tools! Before these I used to make site built versions using scrapes of wood, but I found I like using these much better. I discovered them the same way you did online by accident lol.
One thing, you don't really need two for a wall with two outside corners. Simply mark one end, and tack it in at the other end. Then hook on the tool and measure to the mark.
Keep up the work on your great videos!
Brilliant content!! Question: in a house with rounded drywall corners, how do you go about trimming out any bullnose angles that are not 90....do you go back to 2-cuts or still do a 4-cut corner, figuring out the angles and the width of the center piece? Thanks you!
You find and show the best tools glad you tell us how and where to get them
From one tradesman to another, great great work. I love your passion for your work and we don't get a lot of people like yourself who cares about the job and not the money (of course that's why we do it) Nice work brotha
Riley Mcfee Ja
The problem with bullnose is the the drywall. You see how the tool rocks back and forth? That's because the mud took weeks to finally dry, it shrank which leaves that dip from the corner back about 1 foot in either direction. So when you nail the crown in place it will open up the 22.5* miters even after you glue it. It might not at first, but eventually it will from heat expansion and cold contraction. It's frustrating when you get that call a year or two later and the customer is complaining about gaps opening up in their trim. What i do is nail at the corner edges right at the bullnose on the long pieces and i let the crown float which leaves a gap on the underside for about a foot until it flush with the wall, then i start my string of nails outwards at that point. Just fill that foot gap with latex caulk and those miters will never open up. Cool tool btw. Got to gets me one. :)
I see what your saying and i forgot to mention a critical thing. After you caulk that gap upon initially installing the trim, you need to come back about a week later and nail it down after the caulk has dried somewhat. Caulk can talk along time to dry given the conditions. Usually a week wait is sufficient to nail this area i'm talking about. I also do all this weeks before filling nail holes and sanding wood putty and finally painting. It's not ideal for the company that just wants to come in and get the job done, but when you're working on a home for weeks or several months you have the leisure to do it the right way. So if i was you i would nail that area that continues to separate as long as you can hit a stud, re caulk it, paint it, and be done.
One last thing i'd like to mention.. there are areas that will always move or flex no matter what. Staircases, upper floors, places around door frames, ect.. I use liquid nails, screws, bear claws, biscuit type joints, and several other types of hardware in these areas. You will always have 1 or 2 sides of the structure that will be baked by the Suns heat at some point in the year. Heat expansion causes most of the issues.I always have something i know will work for any situation. This is based on 25 years experience of figuring out how to deal with and correct problematic trim work. Reality is things will always break but there are several ways to prevent it from happening for decades if you know what you're doing and you use the right materials.
It's a given that stuff will open up in Florida. It keeps the painters in job security mode....lol. The climate is just too brutal. You hang kiln dried trim in a 50% humidity air conditioned home and things are bound to move and crack over time. If you have an air conditioned environment to store the material for a week, I.E., the type of climate the trim will be installed in, that reduces the chances of problems down the road. Acclimatizing seems to be the best action for the best job. I believe we will never see a perfect drywall finish job, No money in that....lol.
matttafakt ITS ALLWAYS the wall its the contractors framing drywall i shimming install etc tolerances usually after text paint looks good with no seams or over protrusions but the finishers have to get smart
Most of tbe shrinking is done in a day or 2.. Most of the gap is from finishers that dont run enough mud on the corners or pull it off too tight.. Check the corner with a 12= knife..after you sand.. There is always light ..
That tool company should also make a very similar tool for us painters that will give us the center mark of that bullnose for when the homeowner wants the wall colour to change at the center of that bullnose. That way we can mark the center from top to bottom and lay down a perfectly centered line of tape.
Video suggestion: After watching multiple videos I learned to know you a little bit and can tell you're a craftsman. So it would be very cool to see a project top 5 or top 10 video about what kind of project you enjoyed most doing or where you are most proud of. Because if you think it's good, it must be top class.
Man you are the trim master. I know it takes years to learn but, you make it look easy.
Bro, you share the most useful content. Thanks for this.
I really enjoy watching your videos Bro. I like how you go thru the tools you use and how you go thru the steps from start to finished product on every video you do. Hopefully you keep making videos. My all time favorites shows to watch are The Walking Dead and DFW Crown. Keep up the awesome work.
It's called pride in craftsmanship !!!
I love your videos. Thanks so much. I just got the Starrett miter protractor by your recommendation. Looking forward to trying it out. Looks like it beats holding two pieces of trim at the corner and scribing one of them against the other and using another tool to find out what that scribed angle is...
Hey Richard, dumb question...how do you know what size ( width) to cut the center piece to?
Mystery solved 😍 a MUST HAVE tool. 👍🏻
Hi @Finish Carpentry TV did u take that measurement with your tape from the actual wall that the other crown molding is on to your line you made with that bullnose tool….or u had your tape touching the crown molding that’s up on the wall already? Please explain the best way to help me understand brutha….thank you
You bring so many jobsite insites that are so useful to people in the trades!
Most channels are from workshops
Shahar Dror thanks for watching!
I just subscribed! This is the second awesome advice you've given me . Definitely worth the subscription. Thank you!
The best instruction I have ever watched. Great job, make it look so easy.
Just started watching your videos man . The the info you provide man
Gorgeous work
In the north east bull nose corner bead is nearly non existent. I never had to trim around one. They sure make a lot more work. I'm always making a jig or guide for some repetitive situation. Love your channel. Always learning something new
in the midwest ive never seen it either, seems pretty dumb to make that much more work for something that in my opinion looks worse. he was also talking in another video about how allot of new houses now also have curved walls that they have to use flexable rubber trim on, again this seems unnessisarily troublesome for questionable benifit.
It's being used, mostly in higher end buildings/houses...and after you do a couple it's pretty simple, just double 22.5s on the corner piece, and usually 5/8" wide...
Just saw your Amazon product list.. Than you for sharing that, found a few good items to buy..
Save you enough time to not have to do it at all ,ever again..
The joy is spreading
Good to know. I'm about to do my first bullnose trim job this will help immensely. Thanks.
What part of the room do you decide to start?
Fantastic jig and just got one on Amazon. Can’t wait to use it.
I really did not understand what you meant by the measurements until you showed it up against the molding. Thanks for the visual. I'm one of the need to see it to learn... Visual learner.
This guy seems to chill. Reminds me of my former Barber.
Thanks! About to do mine with you’re guide
Watching your work, all I can say is WOW. I have always done the frame work,hangin drywall etc, don’t mud or paint, long story! Ok with that said I am going to try crown and trim for the 1st time, you make it look not as scary. If you could just do a beginners basics video, I understand the how to look things, just the where to start etc.Thanks again , oh yea dawn dish soap and softener salt and water will get rid of your thistles
OMG Thank you. I have spent hours trying to make my bullnose look professionally installed, Cant wait to try this tool.
The three piece return mimics the bullnose corner so much better than a standard 45 two piece return. And yes that is a very cool tool.
Couple things. If you hold that tool up to the ceiling and mark the lower two grooves it puts your lines at the same spot. Also the return around the corner could’ve been 1/4-3/8 longer by the looks of it to flush out a little better and the last piece was a little thick. Left a little gap.
Other wise like the videos. Lot of neat projects to watch and see people who do still care about quality and craftsmanship.
I do all custom copper work on interior and exterior of multi million dollar homes and quality is of utmost importance to me. Which doesn’t seem to be the case for the framers I follow.
I was doing the same holding up prepped ones then marking. As for this tool how does it work if your bull noses are not perfect 90 degrees. While doing my vinyl flooring I had to do a million custom angels on all bull messes because of the turns not being square
Thanks so much for this video. Great tool. I'm getting one today!
Nice little tool Richard, I have never seen them but I'll have to pick one up. Thanks for the tip.
Best 10 minutes of my day...
You are a master at what you do. You make it look so easy. You don't panic with your work just easy does it.
Do you have a video where you demonstrate cutting the 5/8 bullnose piece? Seems straightforward but that small piece is tricky.
Bought one off the Rockler Website today. Gave FCTV props for the recommendation in their comments.
yes...!!!! been wondering what this was called when i saw you use it before..
Great video, never new this tool existed until now but I’m going to get one ASAP! Thanks man
What glue do you use the link is broken.
Where do you get the glue from
I've always just measured to the corner and looked at my tape. I put the edge of my tape flush with the wall and take the measurement almost an 1/8th of an inch past where the wall starts to move away from my tape so just a hair into the radius. After all the trim is cut I cut a bunch of corners at at about 9/16ths. A bunch of them a hair big and a bunch of them a hair small. Walk around and nail trim or crown on and grab a corner that fits perfect. No messing around with marks and cutting perfect prices just cut everything and start installing
Can you use a tool like this to create a bullnose corner on a straight 90 degree corner?
How do you call this gauge my friend?
How did you hold up the far right end to shoot in the end on camera ? Thanks keep the vids coming
you can make a small mock up of crown or base/hotglue 3-6 inch piece and 5/8 corner radius if you cut 1 inch off the height of radius piecs you leave a place to slide pencil up and down to mark wall. then if drywall has smaller radius /and there are/make to fit and can lose or not pay for store bought one.
Love your Chanel you should consider posting on rumble
I really enjoy your videos and watching your work! Excellent. For a new home improver, it would be very helpful to have step by step guides for both crown and floor molding, as well as cabinet molding. Thanks much.
I've been watching all your video's to learn how to do trim work in my house. You're great at explaining things. For the real beginner could you do a video explaining the most common moulding you can get and what you can do with it? For example, is shoe moulding just for baseboards?
Thanks for sharing your tips. I look forward to every one. Thanks for the help.
When trimming bullnose corners I always cut a pile of corners of slightly varying widths (9/16", 5/8", 11/16", little strong, little weak..) which can help compensate for walls/mud/etc...
thats a great idea
Where you get it..?richar
Love your love for your craft! Where did you get that pencil attached to your belt? I spend more time looking for my pencil then I do getting work done.
Great video you made. I learned a lot and now it time to buy that tool. Thank you
this is an oldwll er thread so maybe no one will see this.
I have one of those but many of my drywall outside corners do not come out to 90 degrees. (I blame it on my drywall mud guy). he didn't backfill right to the edge of the bullnose so it's kind of concave there instead of flat.
But whatever, i have one of these tools and am unsure if it's useful because if i push it flush against, say the left wall, there's a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap on the right wall between the wall and the inside flat part of the tool.
Any suggestions?
Great tip , I just made my own in my shop. Awesome common sense idea. Great videos as well !
Really good videos i do similar work and I really enjoy the subjects and the clarity of the videos
Does anyone else beside me use a nailing strip? Two sides of the room can be nailed top and bottom to hold in place but other two sides you hit a stud but the top is just into the ceiling and not long after the caulk will tear away and leave a gap. A nailing strip or blocks give you something solid to attach to.
Richard as always another nice video.
Clint Price There should be framing all around the edge of the ceiling that the drywall attaches to, you angle your nails to hit that. No extra nailer boards required. Are you using 2.5" finish nails?
Depending on the size of the crown I use blocking. It's good to nail to one surface plane (wall or ceiling) only if you're able to in order to lessen the visual problems caused by lifting trusses or rafters. Unfortunately, that's a problem that is best tackled in the framing phase of construction, so as usual the finish carpenters get to make everyone else's work look good. 😉
You have great methods it shows in your results. The use of that ca glue is awesome but why don’t you meet your seams on a flat surface? Free hands = more sanding
How would you recommend transition from a large to small molding?
I have 19' ceilings, but the room has a hallway with banisters. Im looking at installing 4pc crown in the main room (center point of the enter house). There is no way it would look proper to do that molding all the way around.
The tricky part is, one corner, I can just stop, as it wraps out of sight of the main room. The other side it goes into the stairwell, then down the hallway.
I could post some pictures if you're interested... But the basic question is how and when to transition different size molding.
3:43 I do wanna learn how to make that fancy return. I will have to dig in your videos. :) Good video. Thank you.
Keep it up man!!!
Neat layout tool! I am surprised to see CA glue on a worksite: We use it in the film biz extensively, not necessarily for mouldings, so it's cool to see it getting more use in the world. Urban legend has it that it was developed for field sutures in Vietnam.
Very helpful gauge. I still think $23 for it is pretty steep. But it's hard to argue with how simple it makes those corners. Thanks for sharing!
I’ve done crown Moulding in homes with long walks, the tool is good but if you get walls that aren’t flat your measurements are going to be short. Literally cut the inside corner first, then put the crown on the wall and marked the length off the wall.
Many of the Amazon reviews say to add 1/16 to your measurement as it is a little off. Have you encountered this at all?
Do you have any suggestions on your favorite tool belt for trim carpentry?
I bought a laser tape measure. Made measuring tough spots by myself so much easier. Life changed
Thanks for your help. Appreciate it. Look over your links I could get them to open.