Arduino + U-MC 2100-WA Treadmill Motor Controller
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- Опубликовано: 26 май 2013
- House came with a broken treadmill, but the motor/controller was still working. Now I've got to find a project for it!
The writeup at sonsofinvention.wordpress.com/ was invaluable for this project, so go check out their much more advanced work if you pick up one of these motors.
Circuit diagram, controller, motor, and wiring pics at:
drive.google.com/folderview?i...
Code at:
pastebin.com/hkmzzAx5
This blog post was particularly helpful:
sonsofinvention.wordpress.com/...
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Did you look at the circuit diagram linked in the description? The board might use a photocoupler internally, but I didn't work with it. I just used the hdr2 pins.
Nice video you got there actually showing what's going on in HD where I can actually see stuff. Good job and keep it up.
ps. Maybe little less 'urm' would be nice.
Can you help me? I have the same board but the resistor in the R17 position burned out. Can you tell me the value or color bands on it? Thanks
Excellent work!!
I think you're right that that's the issue. The driver is looking for a pwm signal with a period of 50ms, so 20hz.
Yep, the board plugs into 120v AC and does the DC conversion itself.
Thank you! Yes that definitely helps.
good day sir, what is the maximum voltage and current rating of this circuitry? thanks!
Hey Grant,
When I upload the sketch with anything between 0.0 and 0.9 duty, I see the arduino mega flashing, but no motor movement (red light not flashing on mc2100 board). Anything above 1.0 duty, arduino just has solid light (not flashing), and still nothing from motor side.
I’ve wired up the unit just like yours, however the only difference is that I used a 220 ohm resistor for the arduino pwm pin 9, and 330 ohm resistor to ground.
Any help would be much appreciated.
I don't think the precise rating of the pull down resistor is important, but you'll want something like the 160 ohm logic resistor to drop the voltage closer to 3.3. That only applies if you're using a 5 v logic source like the arduino. If you're using a 3.3 v source like the raspberry pi you don't need it.
Thanks! (I'll work on the 'urm', it would probably help if I wrote out what I wanted to say ahead of time.)
I picked up a little mini tripod from goodwill for my phone - best 88 cents ever spent.
I did something similar with a parallax propeller on a proform tm using the mc2100. I set mine up to read heart rate and adjust the treadmill speed to maintain a target range of HR. Also set up an Android device to talk to the propeller, and control the treadmill ... I have some videos posted. I use my treadmill pretty regularly with this control setup. The propeller drives a VGA monitor as well. You do some other cool stuff on your channel, very nice...I'd like to build a plasma CNC cutter and a 3d printer...In the early 90's I built a PC controlled 10 gal brewery...
Nice! I've been meaning to put together an automated brewery for a while now, but I haven't had much project time lately.
Hello,
Thanks for making this video. A couple of things id like to mention. These boards seem to be a common speed controller on treadmills, and since I'm currently having intermittent problems with mine I can understand why the previous owner took a screwdriver to the board like that. :) I looked at your arduino code and you never mentioned anything about Pin 13 in your video, nor do I understand it's purpose in your code. Also I've never seen anything about the keyword 'floor' in the arduino reference. What does it do? Also the PWM should be constrained to a max 85% duty cycle according to the MC2100 data sheet. Do you have any ideas on the best way to read the Tach pin out? Thanks
why you coneect first pin and last pin together i think it's ground and same pin is any different between it 2- why you connect pull dowm resistor is it important and what about value of resistor it should be same or what ?!
Hola amigo Grant Brown excelente video , yo quiero hacer lo mismo pero con una placa universal,¿conoces el tipo de placa que te digo? muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, un abrazo
Code and circuit diagram are linked in video description. Also check out the linked sonsofinvention blog, that's where I got a lot of info.
i program micro with 5 khz and still not working i notice pin 4 connect to photo capler !! for what photocapler ??! i try to conct it dirvt to open photo capler and also not working i don't know what the problem ?
hello, nice tutorial video.
i have other treadmill controller, is it possible to controll it like this video, the model treadmill controller is mks tmpb 25p.
how to find the pwm pin, so i can use arduino to controll it ?
i have same circuit controller i try a lot to do that but not success i program microcontroller to generat pwm and i connect it to mc2100 but maybay need special frequency ?? what frequency need ? i compare between console output and my microcontroller i notice console bord generte different pwm i connect led to out put console i can see led on and off vary fast ??i used pic16f877 is it need to add transistor to out put what frequency range
why exactly we need 20 hz we need to control photocoupler is it right ؟!!؟
photocoupler in mc2100 as led --Control the intensity of light tell me please i sill need to understand that
Hi there, excellent video. I am hoping to do the same for a project. Could you tell me which treadmill was this controller and motor from as I hope to purchase the same. I understand I can get them separately knowing their names and all, but I need the compatible treadmill belt (with regards to dimension) as well. If you could advice me on this it would be really helpful.
Hi Grant, great video and description. I have that exact issue with my Epic View 550 Treadmill, i think i'm not getting the PWM signal from the console to the Motor controller PCB. everything else works great, incline etc but main motor just returns some sort of fault audio indication. Where can I find the schematic and discription ?
Check out the MC2100 category on the sonsofinvention blog linked in the description. They dug up some schematics of the controller board.
I have a treadmill controlled by this board which has developed bizarre behavior. It either won't start or starts sometimes with incomplete control. Your video is great and you clearly understand how the controller works. Can you tell me if the control board or the console is at fault? I can buy a new control board but not a new console. When not working, the PWM pin 4 has zero volts on it. Is this control signal provided by the console or generated within the board in normal treadmill use?
Looks like it was a NordicTrack "C2 150 Treadmill", 120v, 60Hz, 13A. Serial #: T63123785 38/05 WB. Model #: NT????????? (the sticker is scratched and I can't read it).
Hope that helps, this info is from the last piece of the frame I haven't gotten rid of yet.
how slow could you get this motor to turn with decent torque. I am looking to use a treadmill motor for a welding positioner
TheUkracer Not sure what a welding positioner is, but it sounds like a stepper motor might be more up your alley. They have really good torque at low speed, and precise movement.
What PWM duty cycle are you using? It should be 50 ms for this board.
Thank you for the video and for continuing to reply to comments on such an old video.
Could you explain the function of the 2 resistors in the circuit? Thank you
If my memory is correct, the one from pin 9 is to drop the voltage from ~5 to ~3, and the other is a pull down resistor so the voltage goes back to zero when the signal is not applied.
Hi Grant. You said it would be trivial to add simply add a potentiometer. I was wondering if you might explain how I might be able to do that for my own? Thanks. Roland Thompson
You'll need to connect the potentiometer to the arduino, there are a bunch of tutorials about this (www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Potentiometer)
Once you can successfully interface an arduino with a potentiometer, you need to use the numeric value read by the arduino and re-scale it to provide the appropriate PWM output.
Let's say you get an integer between 0 and 1024 from the potentiometer using the arduino. You can then modify the "duty" variable using this value. For example,
duty = (inputVariable/1024.0);
If this is not intuitive to you, I would suggest that you pick up an arduino starter kit and run through the first few tutorials (blinking lights, serial communication etc). After a very short while you will have no trouble with projects like this.
Hmm, no I don't think so. This card doesn't read the voltage at the input pin, but rather listens for a "PWM" signal, which stands for pulse width modulation. Basically, I'm using the arduino to turn the input pin on and off really quickly. The on/off cycle takes 50 ms, and the proportion of on time over that 50 ms determines the speed.
Nice work, can you provide me with a diagram of the interface wiring and the resistance values. I can not make it work!
There's a circuit diagram linked in the description on google drive - does that answer your question?
But how do I change the speed manually? with a potentiometer? and where would you connect it to the arduino?
Arduinos are programmable, so it entirely depends. You would use a potentiometer, but if you're not sure how to do that I suggest that you start with potentiometer+arduino tutorials and learn the basics before trying it with a motor. A typical tutorial will teach you how to dim an LED with the arduino+potentiometer, using a very similar setup to what would be required here.
Hi Grant, Does that motor controller you are working with have its own 130vdc power supply or did you need to provide an external power supply. The spindle control on my X2 mini-mill decided to roll over and play dead and I am looking for a replacement that is less costly than the parts needed from Little Machines. They want $160.00 for a new board. I would hope to be able to feed a PWM signal to it from Mach3 as well as a pot for manual control.
Hi Matthew, for whatever reason youtube won't let me reply to you directly.
In any case, the pin 13 referenced in the code is the arduino pin, not one on the board. I used the arduino to provide the pwm output. It looks like I used pin 9 on the circuit diagram - sorry if that caused any confusion (just change 13 to 9 in code or hook up pin 13 instead of 9).
I didn't notice the 85% limitation, but haven't had any problems (I also haven't gotten around to actually using the motor for anything interesting).
I haven't done anything with speed sensing, but it looks like the guys at sonsofinvention did by using arduino interrupts to read each pulse.
Hope that's helpful,
-Grant
Hey Grant Brown. I am 'working' on a VR treadmill project.
I got a used treadmill with this same controller for free 2 years ago.
I once connected an Arduino to the board. But only got a read out telling me about outlet frequency. Since then quitted it.
After several repairs- treadmill had some mechanical problems- i am now another
time interested in getting more control of the motor.
I checked another time the net and found your video.
I am thinking of a treadmill that i could turn off and on by hand. So that i could use
it in VR. Of course i would build sth for safety.
However the problem isn't so much in varying speeds(since you wrote the code for that) for that purpose but rather
to get rid of the start/stop delay the controller has apparently build in.
Its about a second for start and half for stop.
For VR it would be nice to have no delay(guess it's a safety mechanism). So here my question.
Do you think its possible to turn that off somehow?
Hi. Excellent video, but I have one question: with the MC-2100 controller could we change the direction of the motor?, from clockwise to counterclockwise and vice versa
Nope, you need to reverse the power cables for that. I suppose you could set up an H-bridge of appropriately sized relays to route power through... but you don't want to screw that up.
thanks for your answer. Maybe the h-bridge is a good option, but I need to find one which support high current (27 Amp).
do you know, what is the maximum current that this device could use?
Hi. Hope you can help me. But if it's not a quick and easy explanation then don't worry.
You said that it'd be simple to add a potentiometer for speed control. That's what i want to do. But i don't know which pins of the connector to/from the control board i should be using. Do you know how i'd test this? I assume the pot will be used as a voltage divider. In that case i'm looking for DC voltage accross two of the 6 pins i have on my power supply board, and another that the wiper would feed? Is that the same pin as you fed the PWM signal to? In which case how do i determine which it is (without damaging my power supply board). (I don't have the MC 2100 ) Thanks.
+balisticsquirel Oh, you meant add a pot to the arduino to control it and in turn the signal it sends to the treadmill power board. I want to use direct control. No arduino. Is that possible?
+balisticsquirel It's certainly possible, but you'd need to design a timer circuit which turns a potentiometer input into the appropriate PWM signal; that's a bit beyond my novice electrical skills. You can get a mini Arduino for like $3 on Ebay though.
Hello,
I don't know to much in electronics but I can identify basic stuff like checking circuits voltage etc... I changed a 2100 board recently (purchased on ebay) because the old one had burnt due to flood. There is a permanent red light on he board, connections to the upper board is good since all lights are on. When I push the start button, the motor just runs for one big spin and that's it. I have to push the stop bottom then the start again to get the same instantaneous spin. I checked the motor voltage: it's 198 V then going down progressively to 0. Can you figure out the problem? Thanks
Not a clue, sorry.
It's been my experience when the the motor spins once and quits, you may have a bad motor or the brushes need replaced. I suggest you do an Amperage test on the motor.
Andriani Sicilian
I had the same problem. Probably your hall effect sensor is not connected or corrupted. The controller is thinking that the motor is not physically spinning so it is stopping the motor for safety reasons using PID.
is the black the hot and the white the neutral in this case of the board?
I'm pretty sure, yep. If in doubt, I believe they're labeled.
Hey, your video has been very helpful. Thank you. I was wondering if you could help me out. I am trying to connect a raspberry pi to the MC-2100LT-12. I am using an optocoupler combined with the pi's 5V rail to send a PWM signal to the MC2100. Just like you, I didn't have much luck with the PWM libraries out there, so i hard coded a loop to have a duty cycle (period) of 50 msec. The problem I am having is when I send a PWM signal (approx 4.88V out) to the controller, the LED remains red and I dont see it blinking, also the motor doesnt respond. I was wondering if this was related to the board not responding to the voltage I am sending it or because of the 50 msec period I am using. I've tried a bunch of different resistors between the output and the MC2100 and I even tried using different duty cycles (30 msec to 60 msec). When you initially tested the circuit, would the LED blink regardless of the voltage you gave it (if you had the correct cycle?) or would the LED blink only when the voltage is correct too. Despite everything i try, Im unable to get the motor to respond. I even tried just giving it a solid 5VDC (not pulsing), but that didnt work as well. I noticed you soldered the AC inputs directly while I am still using the circuit breaker, do you think that is the cause? I can't think of anything else that would be different from my circuit to yours. Your input would be greatly appreciated, thank you again.
+Razvan Serbanescu To be honest, it's been a long time since I looked at this. I'm not sure what might be causing your issue, but the period should definitely be 50ms. If the LED is red, you should have power, it's just not receiving pwm. Are you sure the HDR2 pinout is the same?
+Grant Brown Ironically, 15 minutes after I messaged you. I was troubleshooting more and realized the schematic included with the treadmill was wrong. The HD2 pins were labelled backwards, so i wasn't actually sending a pulse to the PWM pin....*facepalm* I do appreciate your help and that you actually replied on a 3 year old video. Thanks again
Is there a way you can hook a potentiometer to this board
Yes, go through the arduino tutorials on potentiometers - all you have to do to adapt them to a PWM board like this is tie the value read from the pot to the duty cycle.
How could I add a potentiometer to change the rpm? Could you explain this process, and share the code for arduino? You would help a lot of people.
It should be straightforward (I don't have the motor anymore to teat though). If you follow a standard Arduino potentiometer tutorial (to dim an LED, for example), you'll see how you can use analog-input to read a number from the pot. To apply that to the code I posted for this simple example, just rescale the input number to be between 0 and 1, and use it to set the DUTY_CYCLE variable. There are a lot more detailed projects on the linked SonsOfInvention blog.
I have the same board but the resistor in the R17 position is burned out. Can you show or tell me the value of it, or the color and band colors? Thanks
Sure - I don't have access to the board right now, but I'll take a look at it tonight or tomorrow morning and let you know.
Grant Brown That would be great. Thank you
Richard Wise The code is Green-Brown-Brown-Black/Brown, so I think 5110 ohm.
How did you dial-in that R17 is burned out?
Great Project! I just got a free treadmill off of CL with this motor controller and am trying to replicate your effort here. I'm trying to figure out what you did with the blue leads coming off of the board. I see you extended them onto a piece of lamp cord that disappears off the table somewhere but they don't seem to terminate to the motor - where/what needs to be done with those leads. thanks for any advice. Also any idea how to control the power raiser/incline section of the MC?
Lee Wenger never mind - I get it - those are the leads running to the red/black leads of the motor - it confused me that you used the blue wires there instead of the red/black. I still have the question wrt the raise/lower function if you have any info there.
Lee Wenger I never ended up doing anything with the raise/lower motor unfortunately.
Grant Brown Thanks for the response - It looks like 5V on the 5th pin is supposed to raise the incline and 5V on the 6th lowers. The 7th pin provides some form of feedback about the incline level but not sure what kind. I got this to work and then it stopped... not sure what I did. I worked up to where I set the arduino to send a .75 and then a .99 duty cycle which made the treadmill go quite fast but it also made the arduino completely unresponsive to receiving reprogramming commands so I pulled the PWM signal off the MC board and after finally reprogramming the arduino to send a .25 duty cycle pulse and reconnecting now I'm getting no light on the MC... now trying to troubleshoot what I could have done... oh well if I somehow fried the board I guess at least the price was right but certainly wasn't my intention... BTW, I just direct shorted the two leads going to the motor thermal protection (blue wires) and that didn't seem to be an issue but now since i've had these issues maybe that is part of the problem. Anyway, thanks for the help.
How do I control the speed in the arduino?
By changing the PWM duty cycle.
What is the lowest rpm's you can achieve with this motor? Trying to find a cheap reliable motor that can move a 250 pound telescope mirror slowly and smoothly. Could this be done with this motor? Could you help me design a motor for such a purpose....really afraid to buy the components then fry them... :P
Hmm, I'll have to go check later. It can rotate pretty slowly, but it's not really designed for precise tracking like you'd need on a telescope driver. Additionally, it is less powerful at slower speeds - PWM is better for low speed torque than just lowering the DC voltage, but it is still more powerful when spinning at high RPM.
Is there already gearing in place to move the mirror, or will you have to build that?
You should check out stepper and servo motors. Stepper motors move in steps, like the hands of a clock, and some are capable of moving fractions of a degree at a time. Servo motors are the combination of a motor and some sort of encoder, which tells the computer what position the motor is in. That means they're more flexible than stepper motors because they can correct errors (if the motor misses a step when trying to drive a load beyond its capacity etc.), but they're generally more expensive. There are lots tutorials online for setting up both types of motors with arduinos.
Personally, I'd start with the stepper motor. I've used a stepper in the past to drive a barn-door style astrophotography mount. You'll probably need a bigger one as well as gears to step down the rotational speed, but you can pick up a cheap one to try it out and get used to working with motors. You can throw together a really really cheap stepper driver with an L293D chip (there are wiring diagrams available via google), or sparkfun makes a really nice driver with micro-stepping support.
have you considered knocking down the speed using calculated pulley sizes? its much quieter than a homebuilt gear system, but you could always try and find a gear box for the motor shaft diameter as well.
Careless is on track. It is better to keep motor speed above 40-50% and use a drive train to achieve the final speed reduction. This will make your telescope movements much smoother and controllable. You will also be able to achieve some really slow telescope rotation.
In theory, I don't know why this wouldn't work. That's actually the first thing I tried, but the driver didn't respond. I'm going to work on it more tonight/tomorrow after work, so if I figure out why the more standard pwm approaches weren't working I'll post a comment.
Can you spin the motor anticlockwise?
To do that with this kind of motor, you'd need to reverse the polarity. This world require an H-bridge circuit of relays I believe.
Greetings from Venezuela Grant Brown, I congratulate you on the video, thanks for sharing your valuable insights. I'm Electronics Technician and work at a local TV station in my city and I want to manifest something I'm trying to solve to see if you can help: A friend has promised me something that has me head, is the treadmill that I stopped working the automatic mechanism and has not found a solution and asks me to put it to work manually for which I searched a lot of information and I have not managed to find something concrete to do. It is to do what you did in this video, but it turns out that the motor control board is using another model, is the MC2100LTS REV B-50W; therefore I have doubts on the connection. Thanks in advance for your time and God bless you always much...!!!
Hey Grant, awesome video! Liked and subscribed!
I just recently bought an arduino starter kit and completed all the projects. I'm still a noob at electronics but am looking to hack into a treadmill of my own (TR1200-DT5 walking desk), ideally without breaking too much haha.
Would I have to start by doing something like what you did in finding out what board it's using and then trying to google up the model name in hopes that someone's already analyzed and documented out what everything does? If not do you have any resources that you recommend or any recommendation on cheap electronic items that I can practice hacking into?
Thanks in advance!
That would be a good start. That's an ambitious project, so I'd begin by (very carefully) taking apart the console and chassis to see what kind of equipment it has, then start trying to determine a good approach to the rest of the project. Namely, do you want to try to interface with the main controller, or build your own which talks directly to the motor driver?
To be honest, I haven't attempted anything like this, as the treadmill I disassembled was already broken. Be careful, especially with the motor driver which has big deadly capacitors on it. It would probably be best to leave it unplugged for a few weeks ahead of time.
Grant Brown Thanks for the quick reply! There's actually an exposed connection between the control panel and the treadmill underneath the desk. There's an image that I posted in the arduino thread forum.arduino.cc/index.php?PHPSESSID=roje0n43gumumepkl3bvehvj13&topic=280230.0 . So the naive newbie in me is thinking if I can just plug a male to female end on one side, and then plug both of them into a breadboard and then if I'm able to start hooking up cables into my arduino to be able to read/write what the panel is sending to the treadmill and vice versa then that would be ideal. I think that way I can still use the control panel as intended but at the same time also control it through my computer, and also record stats into my computer. I didn't want to just start plugging those pins into my arduino though in case it fries it or worse.
Your video did inspire me to start cracking things open. I took a look at the control panel yesterday but unfortunately didn't find any useful search results when I googled all the numbers and serial numbers that I found inside. The treadmill part might be trickier to take apart so I've held off on that for now.
mrgameandwalk Frying the arduino is a definite possibility. You're going to want to definitely test the voltage on the lines to see what the power rail/grounds are, but beyond that I don't have much experience. I imagine that you're going to need to figure out what serial bitrate is being used for the various components, and then try to reverse engineer the communication protocol - easy to say, harder to do. Best of luck man, if you manage it you should definitely write up a guide.
Grant Brown Thanks, yeah if I ever figure it out I will for sure haha. Hadn't even considered the serial bitrate, it's the unknown unknowns that scare me!
Great video! Any idea why the previous owners ripped it apart in the first place? I'm working on nearly the same one board (MC-2100 REV B) and all seems to be working except it won't communicate with the motor in spite of the fact that it thinks the belt is turning. Any tips? All the caps look good (the 1500uf is bulged a bit, but I think it is just the black plastic casing and not the underlying metal). It seems like testing each resistor would take some time. I've already purchased a new treadmill, but this makes for a great holiday project. Thanks again! -Chris
Hmm, is the motor itself in good shape? I'd use a volt-meter to test if there's current. I know it goes without saying, but be super careful with those capacitors. As for the previous owners, I've got no idea. None of the damage to it made any sense, like someone was trying (and failing badly) to salvage stuff from it.
Grant Brown Lightning-fast response. Subscribed. I've pulled the board apart from the heat sink, nothing looks bad. It hasn't been plugged in for a while, but I still made sure to short-out the two bigger caps. As to the motor, I plugged it into a 12V go-cart battery and it started turning just fine (in both polarities). Wouldn't that indicate the motor is fine? Lastly, I bought a pretty-decent Arduino uno starter kit a month or so ago and am excited to get tinkering. Seriously, thanks again for the video.
Chris Volk Yep, I'd say the motor is good then. Are you getting the PWM indicator light to pulse? If not then I'd double check the arduino setup and make sure it's using a 50ms duty cycle. Otherwise it might be worth taking a look at any fuses that might be blown (it's been a while since I looked at this board, but I'm pretty sure I remember seeing a couple).
Grant Brown I've yet to do anything with the Arduino to this point, just main controller it came with. I'll check the PWM light and go from there. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.
Chris Volk Right - my best guess is that there's some sort of safety feature that's keeping the controller from supplying signal to the MC2100. You'll need to poke around a bit to see what might be happening. Have fun!
most likely the frequency of the pwm did not match, do a little research on pwm duty cycle and frequency. sometimes the chips wont respond to 16khz pwm, so you have to step it down in code.
is there a way to make this work with a potentiometer, so that you just have to turn it to increase or decrease speed? Great job by the way...impressive!
Yep, just read the potentiometer value and use it to modify the duty cycle. The simple code I used won't work quite so well, as the potentiometer reads and associated cycle calculation takes time and would mess up the 50ms frequency without care. I'd use a PWM library to manage it.
@@GrantBrown73 I wonder if he might have meant use the pot in place of the uno...and if he didnt then I do mean that. I know the MC60 controllers will allow for this but I have not seen anyone wire up a MC2100 with JUST a pot. I have been lucky enough to get two free treadmill's off craigslist lately but one had some really crazy controller that I think was fried anyway but I could never find any way to control it other than with the massive control panel from the treadmill itself. I picked up the second today hoping it would have a MC60 but it has the MC2100...which at least works with arduino but honestly its might be trouble than its worth given a simple 10000w SCR controller and 5010 bridge rectifier only runs about $15 and you can skip the giant board all together. Still, if there is a way to wire a pot to a MC2100 that was free...well, thats $15 for beer right!
@@jzahirniak I'm not aware of how that would be possible - potentiometers just change resistance, whereas this board is expecting an active PWM signal @ 3.3.v. I may be ignorant of a clever trick, so YMMV.
@@GrantBrown73 I am afraid there is no trick...I have a couple "nanos" laying around I bought for like $2 on impulse. My MC2100 has a transformer where yours seems missing. I think its a 5 and 12 v one so I suppose I could power the nano from there which would make things clean.
I know pretty much nothing about the Arduino's. Was going to try to learn but got side tracked. What would one need to do to your sketch to throw a pot in the mix?
@@jzahirniak I actually tried it with the bridge rectifier with SCR controller, but motor was making a humming noise when running, and as soon as I put load on it (by stepping on treadmill belt), the humming got louder, until the breaker tripped.
5khz? I'm not sure where you get that number - you really need to be more specific. The pwm cycle is 50 ms, so that's 20 cycles per second, 20 hz.
Did you ever end up using this for anything? Maybe we could attach the laser pointer to this lol!
Fresh From The Garden Got rid of it in the move, the motor had gotten messed up after disassembly. Still have the controller though.
Where can i find the diagram?
Links in the video description
Saludos desde Venezuela Grant Brown, te felicito por el vídeo, gracias por compartir tus valiosos conocimientos. Soy Técnico en Electrónica y trabajo en un canal de televisión local en mi ciudad y quiero manifestarte algo que estoy tratando de resolver a ver si puedes ayudarme: Un amigo me ha comprometido en algo que me tiene de cabeza, se trata de su máquina caminadora que le dejo de funcionar el mecanismo automático y no ha encontrado solución y me pide que se la ponga a funcionar manualmente para lo cual he buscado mucha información y no he logrado encontrar algo concreto para hacerlo. Se trata de hacer lo que tu hiciste en este vídeo pero resulta que la tarjeta de control de motor que usa es otro modelo, es la MC2100LTS-50W REV B; por lo tanto tengo dudas en la conexión. De antemano Gracias por tu tiempo y que Dios te Bendiga mucho Siempre...!!!
Antonio José Montaña No soy expert de estas tarjetas, y nunca he visto la LTS-50W (solo he trabajado con la maquina caminadora rota que teni). Si las conexiones parecen semejantes, es possible que funcionan semejantes. Buscaria conexion en la tarjeta que se llama "HD2", como uso en este proyecto. Buena suerte!
احمد مصطفى
Hey great project. I am trying to use your work on working treadmill. However my U-MC 2100-WA is not recognizing the signal using your code. Do you think voltage schematics may change since it is attached to incline and other things. I think it should not. I am also using Blue PWM connection. My main goal is to control the working Treadmill via computer for school research project. Can you please give me any input on it?
Hmm, no I don't think that using incline should change things. There is a slight mismatch between the code and the circuit diagram with respect to the arduino pwm output pin. The code uses arduino pin 13 while the diagram says arduino pin 9. Do these match for you?
If that's not the issue, is it possible that you've flipped the orientation of header 2 on the controller?
Grant Brown Yes i fixed the pin by switching it to 13. But still not cracking.
How are you putting 25% or 50% duty cycle? If you would like i can send you pictures of my circuit to your email. Thank you
Nirav Patel The duty cycle is set by changing the float variable "duty" defined at the top of the code to the appropriate proportion. For example, a 50% duty cycle would require you to replace "float duty = 0.0;" with "float duty = 0.5;"
Of course, this is pretty inconvenient as it requires you to re-upload the sketch for each change in speed, but it's really just to illustrate the bare minimum required to talk to the board.
Feel free to shoot me an email at grant.brown73@gmail.com with your circuit pictures, I'll try to look at them as soon as I get a chance.
-Grant
Grant Brown Great!!! Thank you You are amazing.
Thanks for your demonstration about the control circuit..... I need to contact you about my case... I have control board for treadmill DC motor that gives high pulsating dc current and that tends to burn the motor so could you help me solving the issue as I'm going to apply an external pwm signal instead of the one on the board.....
Please give your mail to start contact you and get that done... Thanks
Pretty much guarantee why it was cut and damaged was because they had to leave it behind so they deliberately trashed it so the next owners couldn't use it. I've seen it a dozen times. Ppl are just plain mean and despicable
Had a large panel rented to a plant in FL. They cut my 30 wire feed about 3"from the din connector for shipping. I think it was plain STUPIDITY.