Spot on tutorial. Couldn’t of hoped for a clearer find. As others have mentioned, the tools, every car will require different size tools from car to car and even the same car depending on age which is the 1st thing I looked into. The one main thing to make it easier was turning the steering wheel THAT WAS A BANGING COMMENT made by the ace chap in the video!! Thank you
Excellent is the word that comes to mind, clear, precise and no fluffing. You made the job sound so easy that many would have thought that they could not not do it but can. It felt like you were actually there. I have a Vauxhall Combo 2004 and I assume it should be very similar. Have you done any others as there are a few on here I would not let behind the wheel of a car let alone do work on a vehicle. Thank you.
Mate, that is such a good video. I have done loads of work on motors but never trusted myself to do brakes. I have watched this and I can honestly say that I will be doing them on my 2006 Vectra CDTI. Really good video, thank you.
Fantastic Video! I was about to spend over a hundred quid at the garage getting both sets changed for labour. I got my own discs and pads online for £90, the garage were gonna charge £185 for the front and £185 for the rear! Mental!
Easy guide for anyone to follow but I would wire brush and clean everything with brake cleaner before I re-assembled everything. Well done for doing it all with one hand.
I've always used copper grease on the contact surfaces when replacing pads. Most service/garages fitters don't because its takes a few moments longer. I just think its good practice and helps to stop rust seizing parts up.
I can see now how the metal tag on one of the brake pads will squeal when the pad is worn down. It is because it is in fact a bent loop and the end of which is measured to touch the disc when about 2-3mm of pad left. Thanks for your response and a good video on the subject.
I did this today, WORDS OF ADVICE: My car, 2011 sxi, had a 5mm star bolt, an Alan key warped this so make sure you have this part just in case. Threadlock the 19mm bolts back in. Remove the brake fluid cap and put a rag around it to stop it going everywhere, mine was overfull (thanks vauxhall) My 13mm caliper bolt was helicoiled in, this meant it was very hard to get off. And span loosely. Fortunately came off after a while. Use a breaker bar (2ft) to undo lug nuts and redo lug nuts, but not too tightly, I did, and snapped the bolt... Fail. So had to redo the whole process to plier it out. I found if you have alloys copper slip the face of the rotor to avoid seizing, and maybe the back of the pads/lug nuts, to avoid seizing and squels. Buy jack stands and use these to hold car, they're brilliant bits of kit! I hope this helps someone who is in the same position as me. If you follow this video and my advice, 1 hour, £70, job done! For me... 7 hours, a friend and £70 haha
Thanks for a great video that explained what I needed to learn, but about the tools needed: My Vauxhall/Zafira 1800 from 2001 needs a 7mm umbraco instead of the 12 and 13mm, and an 18mm instead of that 19mm.
Great guide, thanks for posting. one thing though, you forgot to mention the importance of cleaning the rotors before you put them on. Failure to do so will result in smoke pouring from your front wheels on first use and possible contamination of the pads.
great vid, ive got a corsa c but hopefully there isnt much difference. What i wanna know is what connects the pads to the pistons? as surely there must be some sort of connection to stop the pads always touching the discs.
you will not need to bleed the fluid or remove the cap unless someone has topped it up when the brake pads are low. If they have then it might overflow when you push the piston back in. The fluid cap has an air vent so you don't need to remove it unless it gets too high. Then you could use a clean pipette to remove excess fluid
Thank you for your reply. I have all the wiring for windows from the doors and all the mechanics, its from the door hinge area to the power supply. Can I obtain the electrics from a Car Manual. These young racers and their hot rod cars seem to be able to do anything, they put us mere mortals in the shade. Thank you.
Hi, a good informative video. However I did my disc and brake pad replacement yesterday before seeing this. Only thing I did wrong was to put the pad with the tag on the back on the offside wheel inside the disc and not the nearside. This does not seem to be a safety issue to me. Surely this does not make any difference does it? I also fail to see how this works by squeeling on the disc when the pads are worn as the tag is outside the brake pad material.
Just looked at your video again before carrying out work on my vehicle and I noticed that you said not to tighten the allen screw up tight as the wheel nuts need to go in when replacing the wheel. Am I right in thinking that I replace the wheel nuts temporarily to get the right position before tightening the allen screw.
Hi again, I have to replace my brake pipes as I have been informed they are wearing out. Have you done a video on this repair by any chance, if not can you reccommend anyone. Thank You. Peter.
the rubber seals in the calliper pull the pistons back a little when you release the brake pedal. But the pads have to be very close to touching all the time or the pedal would go down quite a lot before the brakes work
Really useful video. I watched it a couple of times before doing the job on my 2009 Corsa. Perfect training. However, I would just comment on the tools required. I found that my model has two countersunk screws holding the disc onto the hub and they have a Torx T30 socket in them rather than the 4mm Allen referred to in the video. Also, on my Corsa, the upper and lower screw heads securing the piston assembly are the same (12mm heads). I guess Vauxhall have made some slight design revisions over the years. Other than these small points, everything was as this video. A huge help. Thanks.
Agreed - great video - 2 points missing though I think. Always a good idea to take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and wrap a rag around it. Makes it easier to back the caliper off (less resistance) and the rag will absorb any overflow (depending how full your system is). Secondly some cars require a wind back tool for pushing the calipers back - not just as simple as poking a screwdriver in the gap and forcing them back. Once the caliper is off you insert the tool and rotate it as the caliper has to be 'turned' back rather than just pushing. Still fairly simple though.
The last point you raise is totally irrelevant here, it will apply to the rear of the vehicle. BTW, the magic rad only works if you keep and eye on it. It doesn’t soak up everything, lol
great video easy to follow well done ! just make sure to use something to hang the caliper instead of leaving it hanging on its tubing just use a sling hook and attach to spring or shock tower :)
thanks for the video, i have fitted brand new pads into my corsa C 55 plate and i got loud noise while braking from right front wheel/; do you know why is that or the problem might be? the disks are in good condition no marks on them nothing. thanks
Hi, I heard that if the car has ABS (like mine) then the bleed screw should be loosened to allow fluid to drain when pushing in the piston otherwise it could cause damage to the ABS system, is this true?
Hi, I'm about to do the pads on a 54 plate Vectra, just wondered if it's ok to push the piston back, as I'm sure I read somewhere that certain GM models can damage the master cylinder, though it may be later models, just wondered if you knew.
I am having a lot of trouble getting the caliper holding bolts off my car (in the vid, the 19mm ones but mine are 14mm) The thread is fine but they are not budging!! any ideas? (I have a 05 corsa)
Many years ago it was common practice to use copper grease, I don't know if the service manual says to use it or not, but the later cars don't seem to need it..
Great video, regards to the hydraulic fluid, do you not need to bleed the fluid and top up the reservoir to clear any air? also do you need to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before prising the piston back, thanks
when ive done one side do i pump the brake before starting the other side or do i do the other side and then pump the brake?please help as i want to fit the new disks and pads tomorrow!THANKS IN ADVANCE
HI Thanks for your video on changing pads and discs on Astra. I have done this, and all was fine except I didnt but VX pads and the ones from the shop didnt come with shims to fix in. Now im getting terrible squealing from the new pads! Goes away when i lightly depress the brake so it ids vibration. Is there anything i can do, or but shims, or should i bit the bullet and but VX pads with shims in your opinion. Thanks Peter
Good video although for anyone doing this remember to unscrew the brake fluid cap to alleviate the pressure otherwise it's going to be tough going pushing your brake pistons back in. As mentioned in the video keep an eye on the levels. Place a rag round it in the event of an overflow.
To gadgetathome, Can I replace the drum rear brakes on my Combo with discs and secondly can I fit electric windows in my combo and remove the manual hand crank. I have been informed by a garage that the answer to this question is NO! Apparently there is a regulator under the dashboard to stop me.
Is that really a safe way to push the piston back? looking in the haynes manual it says they should be pushed back evenly using g-clamp with the bleed nipple open at the same time, which i guess requires re-bleeding of the system?
for more leverage try using a metal tube that fits over the fixed socket bar. But it might break your socket if its not high quality. If you don't want to risk it maybe you could have a garage use their impact wrench to loosen the bolts for you.
I've not seen any videos but have a good search and you might find some. As I'm a driving school I don't keep my cars long enough to require changing the brake pipes or I would video the process
Hi. Really useful vid. Do i use the same principal for a 2010 Zafira? I have ordered genuine Zafria pads, do they come with anti rattle clips as standard?
Great video - really useful. However: I have a 2006 pre-facelift 1.2 petrol Corsa D. Both the top and bottom caliper slider bolts are 13mm, and the disc is held on with 2 T30 Torx screws. Other than that everything else is identical. (I did have to beat the disc off with a hammer though).
I have to change my anti-roll bar links and front suspension springs, can you help me with any RUclipss that you may have done. Hope you had a good Christmas and may I wish you a Happy New Year.
yes it should be the same, but you don't need to remove the top caliper bolt (3:05) if you are not replacing the discs. The caliper will swing up allowing you to replace the pads. Genuine pads will come with new clips and the bottom caliper bolt.
When a set of pads wear out its nearly always the near side pad which is against the piston that starts to grind on the disk. So if the tag is on that pad it would let you know in good time by squealing/touching the disk. If you have alloys its quite easy to see how low the pads are anyway..
A very informative video. Just one query that perhaps someone can answer regarding the retracting of the caliper pistons. I have read quite a lot about the need to open the bleed nipples on each caliper as you work on them when retracting the pistons to save any gunge that may be present in the caliper being pushed back into the ABS unit and also the master cylinder causing damage. The video does not show this being done and I wondered if it really is necessary. I have a Mazda roadster with ABS and I did not encounter any problems when I pushed the pistons back in without opening the bleed nipples. I was not aware that deposits (gunge) could accumulate in the caliper. I suppose it depends on how old the brake fluid is in the system and when it was last changed. Any advice on the subject please.
I've never heard of opening the nipples when pushing the piston back. I suppose if the brake fluid has not been changed for many years there's a small chance of some deposits from the rubber seals but I doubt this would do any harm to the ABS unit. I've been working on cars for over 30 years and never had or heard of any problems with sludge...
Excellent video! Question, I have a 2006 Vauxhall Astravan. Its one of the old shape ones, I need to do the brakes soon, would it be pretty much the same process as the vehicle in this video?
I need to change my Corsa 2003 breaks the MOT guy told me to change them all which will cost me around £240 I can easy buy the breaks for the four wheels but does it work with Corsa 2003 as you explained? I just want to make sure thank you :)
great video fella, im doing my vectra 1.8 soon, havent checked if i have back pads too but would be a little wary with the piston turning. how much is the special tool?
I don't think the discs brake conversion would be easy but I'm sure its possible with unlimited funds, the electric window conversion is also possible but the wiring can be quite a pain
Can I ask, should you open the bleed screw on the Caliper before you push the piston back? As I have hear that pushing the fluid back into the system can cause problems with either the brake master cylinder flipping the values and/or damging the abs module with contaminated fluid getting into it. Any ideas? Thanks
Its been a long time since I've seen a Corsa B but I think the technique is probably the same. There should be some other videos that show how its done..
Its going to be a little bit different on a corsa c, as this was done on a corsa d. Its the same kind of procedure except the bolts might be a different size
Be aware that not all fastenings are the same as those shown on the vid. My Corsa 1.2 twinport (2006) had torx type bolts securing the pad carrier, a tool that most DIY'ers might not have to hand. Also the top and bottom fixings for the caliper were 12mm. I did find that a 14mm ring spanner fitted the torx heads but was not a tight fit. These are very tight, something like 75Lb/ft and I had to grind off one out of the three before I could take the disc pad carrier and disc off. If you are changing the pads only it would be quite a simple task as per the vid. My advice is If you are replacing the discs as well then check the exact type of fixing on the pad carrier before you start.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Spot on tutorial. Couldn’t of hoped for a clearer find. As others have mentioned, the tools, every car will require different size tools from car to car and even the same car depending on age which is the 1st thing I looked into. The one main thing to make it easier was turning the steering wheel THAT WAS A BANGING COMMENT made by the ace chap in the video!! Thank you
Excellent is the word that comes to mind, clear, precise and no fluffing. You made the job sound so easy that many would have thought that they could not not do it but can. It felt like you were actually there. I have a Vauxhall Combo 2004 and I assume it should be very similar. Have you done any others as there are a few on here I would not let behind the wheel of a car let alone do work on a vehicle. Thank you.
Mate, that is such a good video. I have done loads of work on motors but never trusted myself to do brakes. I have watched this and I can honestly say that I will be doing them on my 2006 Vectra CDTI. Really good video, thank you.
Fantastic Video!
I was about to spend over a hundred quid at the garage getting both sets changed for labour.
I got my own discs and pads online for £90, the garage were gonna charge £185 for the front and £185 for the rear!
Mental!
Very detailed and very helpful, just done them on 2009 1.4 and was exactly the same. Done in under 30 minutes with this guide. Thank you
Really good, I wish all the tutorials were all as clear as this. First class and thank you.
Easy guide for anyone to follow but I would wire brush and clean everything with brake cleaner before I re-assembled everything. Well done for doing it all with one hand.
I've always used copper grease on the contact surfaces when replacing pads. Most service/garages fitters don't because its takes a few moments longer. I just think its good practice and helps to stop rust seizing parts up.
Excellent video. Took around an hour and so easy and self explanatory . Many thanks.
I can see now how the metal tag on one of the brake pads will squeal when the pad is worn down.
It is because it is in fact a bent loop and the end of which is measured to touch the disc when about 2-3mm of pad left.
Thanks for your response and a good video on the subject.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, it's very easy to understand, even for a novice, like myself.
Great tip about pushing the caliper piston back before taking it off. It worked great. I never thought of it before.
I did this today, WORDS OF ADVICE:
My car, 2011 sxi, had a 5mm star bolt, an Alan key warped this so make sure you have this part just in case.
Threadlock the 19mm bolts back in.
Remove the brake fluid cap and put a rag around it to stop it going everywhere, mine was overfull (thanks vauxhall)
My 13mm caliper bolt was helicoiled in, this meant it was very hard to get off. And span loosely. Fortunately came off after a while.
Use a breaker bar (2ft) to undo lug nuts and redo lug nuts, but not too tightly, I did, and snapped the bolt... Fail. So had to redo the whole process to plier it out.
I found if you have alloys copper slip the face of the rotor to avoid seizing, and maybe the back of the pads/lug nuts, to avoid seizing and squels.
Buy jack stands and use these to hold car, they're brilliant bits of kit!
I hope this helps someone who is in the same position as me.
If you follow this video and my advice, 1 hour, £70, job done! For me... 7 hours, a friend and £70 haha
out of all the videos on this, yours is the clearest. thank you . i will follow your instruction. regards. steve..
Explained in a crisp and clear way! Thanks a lot. Is it possible to post a similar video for rear brake drum and shoe replacement??
thank you for putting this on doing my fatherinlaws van soon been awhile since i did front pads nice to have this to refresh my grey cells
Thanks for a great video that explained what I needed to learn, but about the tools needed: My Vauxhall/Zafira 1800 from 2001 needs a 7mm umbraco instead of the 12 and 13mm, and an 18mm instead of that 19mm.
Great guide, thanks for posting. one thing though, you forgot to mention the importance of cleaning the rotors before you put them on. Failure to do so will result in smoke pouring from your front wheels on first use and possible contamination of the pads.
great vid, ive got a corsa c but hopefully there isnt much difference. What i wanna know is what connects the pads to the pistons? as surely there must be some sort of connection to stop the pads always touching the discs.
you will not need to bleed the fluid or remove the cap unless someone has topped it up when the brake pads are low. If they have then it might overflow when you push the piston back in. The fluid cap has an air vent so you don't need to remove it unless it gets too high. Then you could use a clean pipette to remove excess fluid
very informative mate thanks for taking the time to show us youtubers how its done 👍
Thank you for your reply. I have all the wiring for windows from the doors and all the mechanics, its from the door hinge area to the power supply. Can I obtain the electrics from a Car Manual. These young racers and their hot rod cars seem to be able to do anything, they put us mere mortals in the shade. Thank you.
excellent illustration. was very easy following the instructions. Thank you.
Hi, a good informative video.
However I did my disc and brake pad replacement yesterday before seeing this.
Only thing I did wrong was to put the pad with the tag on the back on the offside wheel inside the disc and not the nearside.
This does not seem to be a safety issue to me.
Surely this does not make any difference does it?
I also fail to see how this works by squeeling on the disc when the pads are worn as the tag is outside the brake pad material.
Well done on the video, its really well recorded and very clear. Thanks.
Just looked at your video again before carrying out work on my vehicle and I noticed that you said not to tighten the allen screw up tight as the wheel nuts need to go in when replacing the wheel. Am I right in thinking that I replace the wheel nuts temporarily to get the right position before tightening the allen screw.
Excellent stuff and so easy to follow. Can I do the same for an 03 1.7 diesel corsa van
Hi again,
I have to replace my brake pipes as I have been informed they are wearing out. Have you done a video on this repair by any chance, if not can you reccommend anyone. Thank You.
Peter.
thanks for this video, i knew how to do the job but this has just made it easier to remember and simplified things for me. you're a top man :-)
Very calm and informative thanks for taking the time to upload, just of to do my fiat coupe discs !! cheers.
the rubber seals in the calliper pull the pistons back a little when you release the brake pedal. But the pads have to be very close to touching all the time or the pedal would go down quite a lot before the brakes work
Really useful video. I watched it a couple of times before doing the job on my 2009 Corsa. Perfect training. However, I would just comment on the tools required. I found that my model has two countersunk screws holding the disc onto the hub and they have a Torx T30 socket in them rather than the 4mm Allen referred to in the video. Also, on my Corsa, the upper and lower screw heads securing the piston assembly are the same (12mm heads). I guess Vauxhall have made some slight design revisions over the years. Other than these small points, everything was as this video. A huge help. Thanks.
Andy Webb that’s because you watched a video for an Astra NOT a corsa!
This was done on a 1.7 CDTi 2008 Corsa < that is in the description under the video, now you just look like an ass
Agreed - great video - 2 points missing though I think. Always a good idea to take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and wrap a rag around it. Makes it easier to back the caliper off (less resistance) and the rag will absorb any overflow (depending how full your system is). Secondly some cars require a wind back tool for pushing the calipers back - not just as simple as poking a screwdriver in the gap and forcing them back. Once the caliper is off you insert the tool and rotate it as the caliper has to be 'turned' back rather than just pushing. Still fairly simple though.
Wind back calipers only exist on rear calipers that operate the handbrake
The last point you raise is totally irrelevant here, it will apply to the rear of the vehicle. BTW, the magic rad only works if you keep and eye on it. It doesn’t soak up everything, lol
great video easy to follow well done ! just make sure to use something to hang the caliper instead of leaving it hanging on its tubing just use a sling hook and attach to spring or shock tower :)
thanks for the video, i have fitted brand new pads into my corsa C 55 plate and i got loud noise while braking from right front wheel/; do you know why is that or the problem might be? the disks are in good condition no marks on them nothing. thanks
just did my girlfriends corsa today, very useful guide
Hi, I heard that if the car has ABS (like mine) then the bleed screw should be loosened to allow fluid to drain when pushing in the piston otherwise it could cause damage to the ABS system, is this true?
Hi, I'm about to do the pads on a 54 plate Vectra, just wondered if it's ok to push the piston back, as I'm sure I read somewhere that certain GM models can damage the master cylinder, though it may be later models, just wondered if you knew.
I am having a lot of trouble getting the caliper holding bolts off my car (in the vid, the 19mm ones but mine are 14mm) The thread is fine but they are not budging!! any ideas? (I have a 05 corsa)
Thanks for this, just what I needed.
Also well done filming & working one handed all the way thru!
I was trying to do this today on a astra 51plate, i couldnt find the bolts, it seemed to be hex keys it needed. so i left it till i got the keys
Many years ago it was common practice to use copper grease, I don't know if the service manual says to use it or not, but the later cars don't seem to need it..
Great video, regards to the hydraulic fluid, do you not need to bleed the fluid and top up the reservoir to clear any air? also do you need to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before prising the piston back, thanks
No torque wrench required then to get it to the manufacturers specification?
when ive done one side do i pump the brake before starting the other side or do i do the other side and then pump the brake?please help as i want to fit the new disks and pads tomorrow!THANKS IN ADVANCE
can you do a video on the renewal of rear brake shoes on a corsa please
HI
Thanks for your video on changing pads and discs on Astra. I have done this, and all was fine except I didnt but VX pads and the ones from the shop didnt come with shims to fix in. Now im getting terrible squealing from the new pads! Goes away when i lightly depress the brake so it ids vibration.
Is there anything i can do, or but shims, or should i bit the bullet and but VX pads with shims in your opinion.
Thanks
Peter
Good video although for anyone doing this remember to unscrew the brake fluid cap to alleviate the pressure otherwise it's going to be tough going pushing your brake pistons back in. As mentioned in the video keep an eye on the levels. Place a rag round it in the event of an overflow.
Very nice video! I'm about to do it on my 2008 Corsa so this was a big help. Thanks!
To gadgetathome, Can I replace the drum rear brakes on my Combo with discs and secondly can I fit electric windows in my combo and remove the manual hand crank. I have been informed by a garage that the answer to this question is NO! Apparently there is a regulator under the dashboard to stop me.
Really helpful video ,does exactly what it says on the tin .massive thanx saved me £76
Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise.
hi this video is briiiiiiilent m8,i have watched loads about put these on or off but you have made this vid in real good detail 12/10.....
This is a good video but its for a newer vauxhall, I need to change me pads and dics on a mk4 astra, anyone know of a video that could help me?
Is that really a safe way to push the piston back?
looking in the haynes manual it says they should be pushed back evenly using g-clamp with the bleed nipple open at the same time, which i guess requires re-bleeding of the system?
Also does it work with all the four wheels? I can't wait to change my breaks it makes whistle sound each time I move :( thx so much :)
Great video, thanks for taking the time to show how to do it!
for more leverage try using a metal tube that fits over the fixed socket bar. But it might break your socket if its not high quality. If you don't want to risk it maybe you could have a garage use their impact wrench to loosen the bolts for you.
hi i have 2003 meriva drivers front break? rattles only on acceleration what do you think i should check?
Very very clear and decent tutorial, thanks. Liked.
Brilliant video, very clear and good pace. Thank you
I've not seen any videos but have a good search and you might find some. As I'm a driving school I don't keep my cars long enough to require changing the brake pipes or I would video the process
Hi. Really useful vid. Do i use the same principal for a 2010 Zafira?
I have ordered genuine Zafria pads, do they come with anti rattle clips as standard?
Is this for the The new model of the vauxhall corsa?
I have literally put all my weight onto the bolt and it is still not budging, any ideas?
Thanks :)
Very good explanation specially pushing piston back , thanks
Great video - really useful. However:
I have a 2006 pre-facelift 1.2 petrol Corsa D. Both the top and bottom caliper slider bolts are 13mm, and the disc is held on with 2 T30 Torx screws.
Other than that everything else is identical.
(I did have to beat the disc off with a hammer though).
awesome walkthrough!! is copper compound no longer essential?
I have to change my anti-roll bar links and front suspension springs, can you help me with any RUclipss that you may have done. Hope you had a good Christmas and may I wish you a Happy New Year.
yes it should be the same, but you don't need to remove the top caliper bolt (3:05) if you are not replacing the discs. The caliper will swing up allowing you to replace the pads. Genuine pads will come with new clips and the bottom caliper bolt.
Very nice and detailed how-to, thanks
When a set of pads wear out its nearly always the near side pad which is against the piston that starts to grind on the disk. So if the tag is on that pad it would let you know in good time by squealing/touching the disk. If you have alloys its quite easy to see how low the pads are anyway..
What are standard disc size for astra mk5 sri 150 1.9 cdti 56 plate.
Brilliant video saved so much time and effort !
A very informative video. Just one query that perhaps someone can answer regarding the retracting of the caliper pistons. I have read quite a lot about the need to open the bleed nipples on each caliper as you work on them when retracting the pistons to save any gunge that may be present in the caliper being pushed back into the ABS unit and also the master cylinder causing damage. The video does not show this being done and I wondered if it really is necessary. I have a Mazda roadster with ABS and I did not encounter any problems when I pushed the pistons back in without opening the bleed nipples. I was not aware that deposits (gunge) could accumulate in the caliper. I suppose it depends on how old the brake fluid is in the system and when it was last changed. Any advice on the subject please.
I've never heard of opening the nipples when pushing the piston back. I suppose if the brake fluid has not been changed for many years there's a small chance of some deposits from the rubber seals but I doubt this would do any harm to the ABS unit. I've been working on cars for over 30 years and never had or heard of any problems with sludge...
Excellent video! Question, I have a 2006 Vauxhall Astravan. Its one of the old shape ones, I need to do the brakes soon, would it be pretty much the same process as the vehicle in this video?
Exactly what I was looking for...cheers mate.
I need to change my Corsa 2003 breaks the MOT guy told me to change them all which will cost me around £240 I can easy buy the breaks for the four wheels but does it work with Corsa 2003 as you explained? I just want to make sure thank you :)
Is it same for the astra h year 2006 or would bolt size ect be different
If I ever get the chance I will, but my current Vauxhall has discs on the rear
Clear and concise, thanks
great video fella, im doing my vectra 1.8 soon, havent checked if i have back pads too but would be a little wary with the piston turning. how much is the special tool?
When reviewing the reassembly, is there a crack in the pad carrier?
would this be the same procedure more or less for a 2008 Corsa 1.3 diesel
Is that a crack I see next to the 19 mil bolt.
Hi mate, wondering what brake pads are needed for a 1.2 2010 corsa??
Great video, makes it really easy to implement, ill give it a shot tomorrow on my 1.7 CDTI Astra :-D.
Cheers
good vid. no copper grease?
I don't think the discs brake conversion would be easy but I'm sure its possible with unlimited funds, the electric window conversion is also possible but the wiring can be quite a pain
will this be the same as ah astra 2006??
thank you i will use ur vid when my discs arrive ur very helpful
What were the brake pads made from?
The first dust seal can be replaced without too much trouble, but it can be a bit tricky, if your not confident I would get a mechanic to replace them
is this the same as a astra tr/ mk3
Can I ask, should you open the bleed screw on the Caliper before you push the piston back?
As I have hear that pushing the fluid back into the system can cause problems with either the brake master cylinder flipping the values and/or damging the abs module with contaminated fluid getting into it.
Any ideas? Thanks
No. Just undo the M/C reservoir cap and wrap plenty of rag around it.
Would this be similar if i wanted to do the brake pads in a 1996 Corsa B?
Its been a long time since I've seen a Corsa B but I think the technique is probably the same. There should be some other videos that show how its done..
Thanks for this guide, it helped me a lot!
Many thanks - just done it myself thanks to you
Its going to be a little bit different on a corsa c, as this was done on a corsa d.
Its the same kind of procedure except the bolts might be a different size
Gadget 7
Be aware that not all fastenings are the same as those shown on the vid. My Corsa 1.2 twinport (2006) had torx type bolts securing the pad carrier, a tool that most DIY'ers might not have to hand. Also the top and bottom fixings for the caliper were 12mm. I did find that a 14mm ring spanner fitted the torx heads but was not a tight fit. These are very tight, something like 75Lb/ft and I had to grind off one out of the three before I could take the disc pad carrier and disc off. If you are changing the pads only it would be quite a simple task as per the vid. My advice is If you are replacing the discs as well then check the exact type of fixing on the pad carrier before you start.