Awesome work so far. I both want and do not want this kit, so watching the build video is my fix to keep me from dropping the money on it. I still have a Mirage V3 I haven't started and I honestly want to wait for the inevitable version with the buster launcher included.
Hi, thanks for watching. I’m using Mr Super Clear UV Cut Gloss in a can for clear coating (it also comes in airbrushable form). I actually wouldn’t recommend this if you’re using the manual’s suggestion of gaia lacquer star bright paints. They have metallic flakes that seem to be re-activated by the solvents in the clear. I have to apply the clear in really light coats to avoid the flakes moving around and pooling. It also warms up the gold color tone a little. I didn’t notice any color change with the bronze color, but that doesn’t have the “star bright” line of paints mixed in. I started with the head and didn’t realize it was changing the tones until after i’d finished that step (I normally don’t work with metallics so didn’t think of the solvents reacting till it was too late) so now I kinda have to keep using it or the tones on the rest of the kit will be different. If you plan to use a lacquer gold with larger metallic flakes, i’d probably go with an acrylic clear coat, or at least put a layer of acrylic clear in between a glossier lacquer clear to protect the flakes.
Applying cement to a painted surface absolutely destroys the paint. That’s why you have to be extra careful to only get the cement on the connection points (little posts and holes). I tend to stick with the thicker cements like the Tamiya orange cap version (I think it’s white cap in other countries outside the US) when cementing parts that are already painted unless I don’t think there will be any chance of the thin type flowing onto a painted surface. So let me explain a little more. The reason I paint first on a kit like this is because of the layers and contrasting colors. An example of layers would be the armor, which is one color, sits on top of the frame, which is a different color. The frame, if any shows through the armor would be impossible to paint with the armor already cemented in place, so the plastic color would be visible in some gaps. (like in the front slit on leg armor on this kit for example, or knee/ankle joints) Some movable joint parts, an example would be that little movable flap on the sides of the leg armor, or the stabilizers on the back of the feet that move up and down, may be more difficult or impossible to reach with paint once it’s in place. To be honest, It’s mostly for avoiding masking, but It’s also more convenient and efficient to paint the parts in groups of similar colors. I always dry-fit the parts first to plan my process and see what can be painted separately and what can’t, but there will be times when it’s unavoidable to have to cement first and do some masking.
This model is out of scale. If there's one thing the Japanese excel at, it's messing up the scale of their models. The Knight of Gold is 15m tall, and in 1/100 scale it's 15cm. Here only the legs are 15cm.
Awesome channel, just discovered it today and I'm enjoying it 👍🏻 hope you get the recognition you deserve
I LOVE FSS designs. They look so alien and almost organic. Gunpla is awesome but these are the best.
Amazing progress! You’re not making the wait for mine any easier 😋
Awesome work so far. I both want and do not want this kit, so watching the build video is my fix to keep me from dropping the money on it. I still have a Mirage V3 I haven't started and I honestly want to wait for the inevitable version with the buster launcher included.
Looks great, I hope to pick one up in the future. A bit pricy but looks like it’s worth the almost $100 price
Are you clear coating before line work and masking if so what clear coat are you using?
Hi, thanks for watching. I’m using Mr Super Clear UV Cut Gloss in a can for clear coating (it also comes in airbrushable form). I actually wouldn’t recommend this if you’re using the manual’s suggestion of gaia lacquer star bright paints. They have metallic flakes that seem to be re-activated by the solvents in the clear. I have to apply the clear in really light coats to avoid the flakes moving around and pooling. It also warms up the gold color tone a little. I didn’t notice any color change with the bronze color, but that doesn’t have the “star bright” line of paints mixed in. I started with the head and didn’t realize it was changing the tones until after i’d finished that step (I normally don’t work with metallics so didn’t think of the solvents reacting till it was too late) so now I kinda have to keep using it or the tones on the rest of the kit will be different.
If you plan to use a lacquer gold with larger metallic flakes, i’d probably go with an acrylic clear coat, or at least put a layer of acrylic clear in between a glossier lacquer clear to protect the flakes.
@@bhop.builds thank you for the tips.
I saw your video and somehow quite curious about you applying plastic cement after you paint it. Do applying cement destroy your paint job?
Applying cement to a painted surface absolutely destroys the paint. That’s why you have to be extra careful to only get the cement on the connection points (little posts and holes). I tend to stick with the thicker cements like the Tamiya orange cap version (I think it’s white cap in other countries outside the US) when cementing parts that are already painted unless I don’t think there will be any chance of the thin type flowing onto a painted surface.
So let me explain a little more. The reason I paint first on a kit like this is because of the layers and contrasting colors. An example of layers would be the armor, which is one color, sits on top of the frame, which is a different color. The frame, if any shows through the armor would be impossible to paint with the armor already cemented in place, so the plastic color would be visible in some gaps. (like in the front slit on leg armor on this kit for example, or knee/ankle joints) Some movable joint parts, an example would be that little movable flap on the sides of the leg armor, or the stabilizers on the back of the feet that move up and down, may be more difficult or impossible to reach with paint once it’s in place.
To be honest, It’s mostly for avoiding masking, but It’s also more convenient and efficient to paint the parts in groups of similar colors. I always dry-fit the parts first to plan my process and see what can be painted separately and what can’t, but there will be times when it’s unavoidable to have to cement first and do some masking.
@@bhop.builds thanks cap!
This model is out of scale. If there's one thing the Japanese excel at, it's messing up the scale of their models. The Knight of Gold is 15m tall, and in 1/100 scale it's 15cm. Here only the legs are 15cm.
Awesome! Nice music too!