I set up my barn workshop with in floor heat and I love it! I will say I started cutting the poly iso foam with a table saw and what a miserable job it is! The dust and particles get into everything, nose, eyes ect. It may help to cut outside but it really makes a mess. I finished the job with a hand saw. Not as fast but certainly not as messy either.
Isn’t placing two vapor barriers creating a place for mold to grow? You’ve got a 6mil plastic vapor barrier in direct contact with the ground and then the foam board which has its own vapor barrier already on it.
I"m curious as to how you attached the polystyrene to the outside wall with the vapor barrier behind it? All my walls will be poured concrete and if I run the vapor barrier up those walls it would force me to put the polystyrene against the vapor barrier. Do you feel that the polystyrene on the walls would be held in place by the polystyrene flooring? Also did you foam the points where the polystyrene on the walls and floor meet or just leave that alone and let the concrete floor flow? These videos have helped me tremendously as I start my very similar project.
Hey Paul, always fun to watch the experts at work! Looking forward to my build this spring, take care and don't work too hard! One quick note, I saw a shipping company on Facebook Marketplace going out of business and they were selling cases of tape at $36 dollars a box, it was just over a dollar a roll. That sure would save you some money in materials?
wow just watched and had couple questions answered about lay out of pex tubing... each zone must be at 300 ft or less looks like ....? how many zones per pump ...typical household system pump .....1800 Sqft house with attached 2400 sqft garage slab on grade...
Quite the process, Paul. And well explained- using the YT speed control answered some of my questions, anyway. It also demonstrates a good look at practicality and simplicity- by design it has no "made joints" out under the floor, it's risers are well ordered and will "valve off" easily- btw, your "manobloc" control was a real revalation for me- I had always dreaded that part! FR
It always feels l like having all that tubing under the slab is going ot become a huge headache sometime down the road. It will definitely complicate any plumbing repairs in the future. How thick is the slab over the tubing?
There is insulation under the slab, but what about the sides. If one had a stem wall one could then place insulation between the stem wall and the slab. How are you doing that with no stem wall? In the same regard, does you garage slab extend past your garage doors so that it is exposed to the outside. I would think one would want a thermal break between the slab and the external environment at all points? Also, I saw that your insulation did not directly butt up to the floor drains in the garage. What is the reason for that?
Great questions! If you watch the previous video we add 24" of insulation on the sides - ruclips.net/video/qf7fq3Ob8YA/видео.html Since we slope the concrete to the drains I leave out the insulation so I still have 5" of concrete and I don't lose any strength/depth in those areas.
If you know where you are going to purchase your controls prior to running your tubing, many times they'll provide a layout for you or at least help you with the layout. If you're doing it on your own I'd draw out the dimensions of your spaces/zones on a piece of grid paper and then draw out the pex runs. I recommend starting 6" from wall and then 12" oc from there. The layout really depends on the location of your manifold. For instance in this build the manifold location was in the center of the two zones (house and garage). You'll see that I ran to the furthest wall and then back. I calculate in my head how much I could cover before I return. Just have to make sure you're running it in a way that allows you to come back and not cross over previous runs. As you saw in the video I mark out the spacing with spray paint. I've done it enough now that I can just calculate as I go. You'll also want to keep your runs close to same length, unless you're going to use flow balancing valves on your manifold. If one loop is substantially shorter than another, that loop will have a greater water flow and the full-length tubes will have less water flow, causing uneven heat.
Search the term “loopcad” it is design software you can use to do the entire heat loss calculation, layout, flow rates, equipment needed, everything! And you get a 30 day free trial so it’s perfect for the non-professional.
4:16 I have to say that table saw technique is a little sketchy. I’ve seen that insulation board have strips of plastic strapping embedded in the edge and pull itself into a table saw and get hacked all sideways like a hard wood knot. Be careful. Especially with that wobbly saw.
I know this guy has good intentions, but he is definitely no RR Buildings. Kyle knows what jobs to leave to the professionals. This guy is a more or less a DIY guy selling himself as a professional builder like RR buildings.
Tough to make that determination if this is your first video. Kyle is a phenomenal builder. The channel has a heavy DIY focus for the benefit of our audience that wants to learn how.
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
These cost breakdown videos are more helpful than I can tell ya, thank you!
Glad you like them and their helpful!
I set up my barn workshop with in floor heat and I love it! I will say I started cutting the poly iso foam with a table saw and what a miserable job it is! The dust and particles get into everything, nose, eyes ect. It may help to cut outside but it really makes a mess. I finished the job with a hand saw. Not as fast but certainly not as messy either.
Bosch makes really sweet jig saw blades for cutting foam that are perfect. 3 for $10 in case you ever do another floor….
Great job. Well done👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥
Thanks!
I haven't decided what's more enjoyable - watching your amazing videos, or watching the number of your subscribers goes up every couple of days 😉
Ha...thanks!
Isn’t placing two vapor barriers creating a place for mold to grow? You’ve got a 6mil plastic vapor barrier in direct contact with the ground and then the foam board which has its own vapor barrier already on it.
I"m curious as to how you attached the polystyrene to the outside wall with the vapor barrier behind it? All my walls will be poured concrete and if I run the vapor barrier up those walls it would force me to put the polystyrene against the vapor barrier. Do you feel that the polystyrene on the walls would be held in place by the polystyrene flooring? Also did you foam the points where the polystyrene on the walls and floor meet or just leave that alone and let the concrete floor flow? These videos have helped me tremendously as I start my very similar project.
Great foundation 😶🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽🌻🧐
Thank you!
does the floor by the manifold get hotter than desired? wouldn't there be heat transfer from the supply pipes next to the return pipes in the floor?
Hey Paul, always fun to watch the experts at work! Looking forward to my build this spring, take care and don't work too hard!
One quick note, I saw a shipping company on Facebook Marketplace going out of business and they were selling cases of tape at $36 dollars a box, it was just over a dollar a roll. That sure would save you some money in materials?
wow just watched and had couple questions answered about lay out of pex tubing...
each zone must be at 300 ft or less looks like ....? how many zones per pump ...typical household system pump .....1800 Sqft house with attached 2400 sqft garage slab on grade...
Quite the process, Paul. And well explained- using the YT speed control answered some of my questions, anyway. It also demonstrates a good look at practicality and simplicity- by design it has no "made joints" out under the floor, it's risers are well ordered and will "valve off" easily- btw, your "manobloc" control was a real revalation for me- I had always dreaded that part! FR
Thanks for watching and your comment
@@MrPostFrame As always Paul, you and your team did the work. Best to you and family in the New Year! FR
So the $56k is the cost for everything so far in the build process?
Yes, with estimated labor to that point.
Awesome stuff! Does your company or do you know of a company that can build in New Hampshire or Maine? Thank you much.
It always feels l like having all that tubing under the slab is going ot become a huge headache sometime down the road. It will definitely complicate any plumbing repairs in the future. How thick is the slab over the tubing?
Thanks for watching...it will be a 5" slab
How deep is that in the concrete? Does this affect where future walls can be built?
5”, no tubes are at bottom of the floor. We only go about 2 1/2” deep with wall anchors so don’t have to worry about tube location
How thick did you pour the concrete? Thanks. Also what would be the minimum you would pour it?
On this build 5” - ruclips.net/video/AGKRBCEWEYc/видео.html
4” is the least I’d go.
Do you use Pirma columns when building a barn to minium?
We have used wet set and dry set brackets but plan on using the perma columns in an upcoming project!
There is insulation under the slab, but what about the sides. If one had a stem wall one could then place insulation between the stem wall and the slab. How are you doing that with no stem wall? In the same regard, does you garage slab extend past your garage doors so that it is exposed to the outside. I would think one would want a thermal break between the slab and the external environment at all points?
Also, I saw that your insulation did not directly butt up to the floor drains in the garage. What is the reason for that?
Great questions!
If you watch the previous video we add 24" of insulation on the sides - ruclips.net/video/qf7fq3Ob8YA/видео.html
Since we slope the concrete to the drains I leave out the insulation so I still have 5" of concrete and I don't lose any strength/depth in those areas.
Can this type of house be built with wood floors instead of concrete?
You can and build with basement. Can even add radiant heat under wood floors.
whats the best way to layout pex for your build?
If you know where you are going to purchase your controls prior to running your tubing, many times they'll provide a layout for you or at least help you with the layout. If you're doing it on your own I'd draw out the dimensions of your spaces/zones on a piece of grid paper and then draw out the pex runs. I recommend starting 6" from wall and then 12" oc from there.
The layout really depends on the location of your manifold. For instance in this build the manifold location was in the center of the two zones (house and garage). You'll see that I ran to the furthest wall and then back. I calculate in my head how much I could cover before I return. Just have to make sure you're running it in a way that allows you to come back and not cross over previous runs. As you saw in the video I mark out the spacing with spray paint. I've done it enough now that I can just calculate as I go.
You'll also want to keep your runs close to same length, unless you're going to use flow balancing valves on your manifold. If one loop is substantially shorter than another, that loop will have a greater water flow and the full-length tubes will have less water flow, causing uneven heat.
@@MrPostFrame thank you...thats really good information. i understand you will create plans for purchasing. Can you do custom design? Nothing crazy
Search the term “loopcad” it is design software you can use to do the entire heat loss calculation, layout, flow rates, equipment needed, everything! And you get a 30 day free trial so it’s perfect for the non-professional.
Yes! We mainly do custom design. Email design@mrpostframe.com
Is their a ball park price per sq ft for I'm floor radiant heating ?
Radiant Heat Cost + Overview Part 5/5 | MAD County Build
ruclips.net/video/L4I_HaNRF-U/видео.html
@@MrPostFrame thanks
4:16 I have to say that table saw technique is a little sketchy. I’ve seen that insulation board have strips of plastic strapping embedded in the edge and pull itself into a table saw and get hacked all sideways like a hard wood knot. Be careful. Especially with that wobbly saw.
I know this guy has good intentions, but he is definitely no RR Buildings. Kyle knows what jobs to leave to the professionals. This guy is a more or less a DIY guy selling himself as a professional builder like RR buildings.
Tough to make that determination if this is your first video. Kyle is a phenomenal builder. The channel has a heavy DIY focus for the benefit of our audience that wants to learn how.