Honda Fourtrax 300 Repair TRX300
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- Опубликовано: 28 ноя 2016
- Honda Fourtrax 300 Repair TRX300
This post covers Honda Fourtrax 300 Repair TRX300. Here we troubleshoot the Honda Fourtrax 300 engine and repair it. We also explain how I used multimeter to aid in the troubleshooting process.
More great videos of our work can be found here: odysee.com/@GreatEscapeFarms:4
The Troubleshooting Process
The first thing I try to do on a simple motor like on the Honda Fourtrax is to break it down to either an electrical issue or a fuel issue.
The easiest way that I have found to do this is to remove the spark plug and then try and start the engine. If you hold the sparkplug up to the frame of the Honda and try starting it, you should see spark. If you do, you likely have a fuel issue. If you do not, you likely have an electrical issue.
Fuel Issues
At the same time as you are turning the engine with the spark plug out, give a smell and see if you are getting a gas smell out of the spark plug hole. If you smell gas, that means your fuel line is not clogged. If you do have spark and you smell fuel, then the fuel mixture could be off. At this point you need to do a deeper dive into the carburetor and adjust according to the manual or do a carburetor rebuild. That is not the problem with my Honda today, so we will save carburetor issues for another day.
No Spark
The issue with my Honda is no spark. There are several things we can check out, but everything is under the gas tank, so we will need to remove that. It is removed by simply unscrewing one bold underneath the seat and removing the fuel line. Make sure the tank fuel switch is set to the off position.
Tank Off
I removed my tank and immediately saw the likely cause of my issues. There was a great big wad of pink insulation in my wiring harness. A mouse had decided to make a nest under my gas tank which is on top of my coil and wiring harness. Now I have to hope that the little critter didn’t chew through the wiring harness, as that would be a big old pain to repair.
Nest Removed
I removed the nest and inspected the wiring harness. He did chew through the outer insulation of the wiring harness, but did not chew through any wires. That is good, but I still have some kind of electrical issue.
The Coil
There is mouse urine on the coil, which could be causing the spark to short out before the spark plug. But I need to be sure. So I removed the coil and checked the system out with a multimeter. The coil has two wires going into the back side of it. A green wire which is ground and a black wire which gets 12 volts applied at a certain point as the engine turns.
Multimeter
The multimeter I own came from Harbor Freight Tools. I had a coupon that let me get the multimeter for free if I bought one other item. I don’t have a problem finding things to buy at this store, so it was free. Even if you don’t have a coupon, you can pick one up for under ten dollars.
Ohms
The first thing I did was to check that I had a good connection to ground on the green wire. Make sure the coil is connected up to the frame with the wire on the screw. That is your connection to ground. Then remove the green wire from the back of the coil. You will check that wire for connectivity to ground.
Set your voltmeter to Ohms and put one lead on the green wire you removed from the coil and touch the other lead to the frame of the Honda. You should see a direct short. Depending on which multimeter you have, you will either see a needle move or you will see the meter reading go down near zero. If you have a good reading here, connect the green wire back up.
Voltage
The next step is to remove the black wire from the coil. Here we are checking for voltage, so change your multimeter to the DC voltage setting at 20V DC. You will need to connect one wire of the multimeter to the frame of the Honda and the other to the black wire. Then with everything in the “On” position on the Honda, push the start switch. You should see some voltage on the meter. It will not get up to 12V unless you have a really good multimeter. It is just a quick 12V spike, so it usually doesn’t measure the full voltage. Mine only showed between 2 and 4 volts. Connect the black wire back up.
Coil Issue
If you see voltage there and have a good ground, your coil has everything it needs to generate a spark. At this point you need to look at the coil as the issue. In my case, I had a good ground and voltage.
More in the video....
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I have the same identical bike and am having the same problem. Thanks for the video, I was leaning towards the coil and with this I'm convinced this is my problem.
Glad to have helped. There is another part I found that a lot of people online have been having problems with. It was called "Db Electrical IHA6033 Cdi Module for Honda ATV 300". It seemed to be the issue for a lot more people than the coil. My issue was mice pee. Might be worth checking out.
Great Escape Farms we had the cdi go out on ours. This does seem to be a common bad actor.
Thank you for your video very informative. You did an amazing job explaining and repairing the unit. Keep the great job up!!!
Thanks!
Thanks for the very detailed video. Good job.
You're welcome and thanks!
Wonderful video thank you very much very informative I just recently I purchased a 300 used I got to drive it around a little bit it was sluggish so I went and checked the brakes and I guess the rotor was stuck to the back brakes and it had been parked for a while but it seems to be working fine now thanks for this video and I'm glad I know where the what is that the coil is now and I know how to test it now thank you very much
You are welcome.
Thank you for this video it helped alout
Thanks!
Thanks I was having the same problem you just confirmed it parts are on the way.
Hope it worked.
Yes it did ,and Mama is happy.
@@carnellwatkins7446 That is awesome! Glad it worked out!
I'm having a similar problem although I have intermittent spark. I'm going to start with a spark plug which hopefully is the problem. I was hoping to avoid removing the gas tank. On a side note, when I took the spark plug out of the boot, I thought that the little screw on tip on the spark plug had gotten stuck in the plug boot. I eventually removed this from the boot but found out that it is an actual component of the boot and is designed to keep the boot from wiggling off of the spark plug. It has threads. Something I've never encountered before. Just curious, did your plug wire boot also have this retention nut inside of the spark plug boot?
It was threaded, but no nut.
Do you recommend this quad looking at a 1995 model same color even with a manual plow from a small used ATV dealer. Started right up in the cold without choke and seemed to purr like a nice bulletproof Honda xr. He’s asking 2400 for her
I just plan to plow a flat gravel driveway and light trail rides.
I love mine. I rebuilt the carb this year (I've been operating it for 7 years now).
Same exact 300 I have I had same issue but my . Problem was ignition box
Glad you found the fix.
I have a 2000 300 trx I followed your coil check, all is good there, Quad seems to be stuck in gear and will not go to "neutral" (Neutral green light is on) the wheels will not roll, locked up? I get no spark, could I have a Neutral switch issue. if so were would I find it? thanks
There could be a lot at play here. If the engine does turn over and the quad is not "jumping" forward or backward, then you are truly in neutral and something else (brakes?) has the wheels locked up. If it is in neutral and you have checked the coil like stated in the video, then the next most logical issue is the CDI module. I have had issues with mine in the past and if you search around on the web, it appears to be one of the more common issues with ignition on these quads. Here is a link to the one I ordered (if you decide to get one, make sure it is the right one for your particular quad. The one in this link is the one for my specific model and year): www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-IHA6033-TRX300FW-30410-HC4-770/dp/B0081S9EKK/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=greescfar-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=246d9099e33849e83f52ce2eb618c3d3&creativeASIN=B0081S9EKK
Walter W
Gear fork
Todd what causes the battery after its driven to leak out. my son's has done this 2 times.
I'm not a mechanic, but I would have to guess that the battery is getting too hot, either from being excessive drained (the battery would die fairly quickly if this happens) or from being over charged. The over charged issue would be caused by something not regulating how much voltage is being sent back to the battery. That is where my experience ends and someone else would have to help. Hopefully someone reading this blog can add to this.
Great Escape Farms it was the voltage regulater thanks.
Glad you found the issue and thanks for reporting back with what the issue was. Hopefully it did not ruin the battery before you fixed it.
Great Escape Farms ,it did he's had to replace the battery 3 times lol.
That stinks.
must be careful the gas doesnt mist near the spark plug when turning the motor over checkung for spark.
Good point Steve! Thanks for the safety tip. Sometimes I get going too fast.
hi from mexico necesito saber la posicion del vin en este modelo de honda
I looked around for the VIN and was unable to locate it. Sorry.
My brother puts dryer sheets around the engine and several other places in his Harley Davidson and his old classic Chevrolet Pickup. When he stores them And so far since he has d
I'll have to give that a try. Anything to keep the mice out. Thanks.
Anyone with issue keep getting gas in oil? swapped carbs assuming it was float issue, and since replacement, no adjustment. week later oil milky and smells of gas,, worn rings perhaps?
that opening to airbox snorkel, get old metal window screen, roll up a 5" wide piece and push through and ziptie to hold in place, keeps mice out of airbox..
Thanks!
No experience with gas in oil on this equipment. I have had it happen before on a riding lawnmower, but only when I was transporting it on a trailer without turning the gas off.
One thing you might want to try is shutting the gas on the tank off any time you are not operating the unit. If you do this then you know that the gas is getting into the oil during operation (not sitting parked) and then you have an issue with the engine (like rings).
started watching and we have the same problem. but I had a bird build in the same spot.
Wow, a bird? That must have taken some work for him to get in and out of there.
my fourwheeler want start sometimes and in 5th gear it want to die and not go fast
Sounds like you have a couple of issues on yours.
Did you ever figure this out?
Transmission, carburetor. Start with that
Lol I'm definitely not professional but I think those are two possibilities.
Do u have any idea what could be wrong if my ignition does not work?
What do you mean by ignition doesn't work? Does the engine not turn over at all? If that is the case there are a few common things - battery is dead, transmission is not in neutral, the key is not in the on position, or the red switch on the left handle bar is not in the on position. I may be able to provide more info if you can explain what you mean by ignition doesn't work - i.e. - the engine does turn over (or doesn't), or the green ready light comes on (or doesn't). Thanks!
@@greatescapefarms the only way to start the bike is if I kick start it, it's always in neutral trust me I checked I figured it might be something with the battery or maybe something broke in the wiring harness? But I do not want to go down through all that and try and find the problem.
@@dustinbowen7201 Understood. Of the most likely culprits is the battery. Does the green ready light come on when in neutral and the key on ready to start?
@@greatescapefarms the neutral light is the only light that doesn't come on
@@dustinbowen7201 That is without a doubt a problem (unless the bulb is burnt out). There is a safety system that prevents the starter from turning over unless you are in neutral. If the light does not come on (assuming the bulb isn't burnt out) then something is not operating properly in the safety system or one of the conditions for the light to come on has not been met: you are not in neutral, your key is not in the ignition and turned on, your battery is dead, your engine kill switch on the left handle bar is not in the operate position.
How do I remove the gas tank
There is one bolt under the seat. There is also a plastic "snap" on each side of the 4-wheeler - it is the plastic fender that snaps in. Pull the fenders to the side and it will unsnap. At that point pull the gas tank toward the rear of the bike while lifting up on the back of the gas tank where the bolt is.
my choke is stuck so it won’t start, what do i do about that?
Unstick the choke.
@@fourbyfourer best advice I've ever seen on youtube 😂😂😂
Choke being stuck could be the cable or button on the handle bars. Like @Livin' below points out - see if you can find a way to unstick it. The other possibility is that it is stuck in the carburetor itself. Again, try using some carb cleaner and clean it out, but it may require a carb rebuild or a new carb depending on how stuck it is in there.
I got a coil from Ebay for $10 bucks !!
That's awesome! I usually default to Amazon, but have heard of better deals on Ebay.
cant hear your video not much sound
Sorry for the sound issues on my early videos. I now have a microphone to help with any sound issues, but unfortunately, it does not help with the original videos.
Hey
Hey
Hey
Is it for sale and also send me your address I'm going to pick it up how much you going to pay for it
500
Do you guys have a separate deal going on here :)