I just started using Le Tonk for the first time and your video could not be more timely! Thanks so much. Lots of great information that will save me a lot of headache.
Beautiful finish, top class as always. Dust on varnish or paint is a constant nightmare. Sometimes choice of clothing can contribute to dust as mentioned earlier. Your pullover, tight knit as it is, will shed from the arms as you paint. Short of painting butt naked its always going to be a problem; complaints from the neighbours, cold day etc. You have my sympathy. You could try paper overalls; we used to cut them off below the waist keeping the zip intact and just above the leg. You can reuse them. You might not fully eradicate the dust, but it might help keep the blood pressure down. I hope your paint vault is a good solid fire proof bunker or away from the house. Linseed oil some times likes to go pyro when you least expect it. There was an incident a number of years back with a solvent filled rag on an aircraft where I worked. It spontaneously burst into flame in a dust bin in the cabin during maintance. A quick thinking guy picked up the bin and ran down three flights of stairs with the burning bin. Saved a Boeing 747 from a fiery end. The solvent was by the same manufacturer as your finishing pads.! Our safety guy told us, just because a product says its a low vapour, ie.low smell, doesn't mean its not harming your lungs. You just cant smell it as its doing it and you tend to expose yourself even more.
Well you’re probably quite right about my clothing, but mostly the shop is just way too loaded with fine dust. I gave it a good blow out before final coats which helped. The fire department has signed off on the paint room and the rags immediately go outside into a water filled pail.
I really enjoy all the spontaneous problem solving on this build, I guess I thought it was going to be more formulaic!? I'm awed by the level of skill and quality of your project. So glad you posted and even gladder I found it! Thank you.
Well formulaic is usually possible when you are building the same boat or using the same process repeatedly. I’m jumping around to very different methods of construction so frequently that it leaves me in a constant state of innovation and problem solving. It’s what I enjoy too so maybe I'm just subconsciously constantly making things difficult for myself. I have a friend who is a product and furniture designer who calls me in for backup whenever he hits a problem wall.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Im a mature, land based carpenter and even though you've never "seen it all", I've seen enough that I get those calls too! I'm sure you wouldn't be surprised to find out just how many complicated carpentry hacks I've learned from you amazing boatbuilders. Thanks again.
Well this has been VERY instructive since I’m just about to varnish my restored Mirror Dinghy. Never would have thought about scotch brite but will be sure to use it. Also the tip about wetting out the varnish.
Thanks for this. Restoring teak on my Morris Leigh 30. I used their Le Tonkinois Bio-Impression as a primary coat and then applied first coat of Le Tonk No1 and took about 3-4 days to dry. Although it says you don’t need to thin, I think I will thin to see if that will speed drying.
I have found a fresh can kicks off reliably while an older partially used can takes longer to dry. I have no idea why that would be the case. Sometimes I think humidity plays a large role in speed of curing. When something take more than 24 hours to become dry to the touch, I assume it's because the underlying layer hasn't properly cured first. It's always worth reaching out to the manufacturer for answers to problems.
Beautiful! Now I definitely know that I’m too fussy with varnish. Watching how much you lay on I reckon that you’re moving about 30% quicker than I do and your finish flows out better as a result. Lesson learned, thanks! 😎👍🍻
I find your choice of varnish interesting. I used LeTonkinois for a few small projects, for the same reason as you: the vapours. It seems to dry much slower than less traditional varnishes. Great for having more time to correct things, but more time to collect dust.
Smell for me is a huge factor. My wife is like a bloodhound. She even gets jumpy about latex paint odours. If I keep the doors open for a couple hours she doesn’t complain too much about this stuff.
I love watching your videos. I tend to work too fast and you are teaching me to take it easy and pay attention to detail. What do you mean when you say 'solvent' or 'spirits'?
will this wooden boat be lighter than a glass boat? Was the plotting of the stay holes difficult? I sure there are lot of rules, on where it has to be, but this a handcrafted boat and it would be a little different than a factory produced boat. Thanks for showing the whole process. From mixing, to applying, to cleaning up. Not boring at all no seriously. Bill
In theory it should be lighter than a glass boat. That is the goal anyway. The rules stipulate a minimum weight of hull and deck per square metre. the goal is to hit as close to that as possible so that you can put more ballast into the keel where it can help you perform better, but all the boats should have the same overall minimum weight. It wasn't too hard to plot the shroud holes. Just did it on the drawings. The mast shifts around on purpose in use so they won't always be bang on anyway.
At about 6-8 I start asking myself if it’s looking good. Did I get a reasonable dust free, blemish free result this coat? Bearing in mind there are three coats of epoxy under that, so maybe about 10 in total. More would be good but there is cost to consider and as I said, the customer is good about maintenance so at 5 - 6 coats, we are well protected. Everything beyond that is vanity.
After the boat is out of the shop or maybe cover it. With all the doors and windows open Fire up a leaf blower. Wave it around the ceiling and the top of the workbench. I bet you get clouds of dust at first. Then you will gradually get rid of the airborne dust. .
Have you ever tried using a badger hair shaving brush? More for detail work than anything else. If you have not, I would be happy to send one from my collection for you to give a try.
Have you ever tried Bloxygen? It's an aerosol spray that is heavier than oxygen . You spray it into the headspace in a container and it displaces the oxygen, and gives finishes a longer shelf life.
Wetting your floor helps cut down in dust quite a bit. Stapling some plastics sheet up on those rafters probably wouldn't hurt either. A person walking on the other side of the house could knock down fine dust. I hate dust.
In finishing racing cars and motorcycles we used the 50-50 rule... does it look good from 50 feet or at 50 mph? I'd say this thing is as good looking a racer as anything I ever built.
I really appreciate your craftsmanship. Quick question - how long has the 2.4m project taken you and how many hours a week would you spend building it? Just curious. Thanks!
The project was 800 hours in total over the course of a year. Probably the same amount has gone into the videos as well, or maybe more. My work day varies in length but it’s probably 5-6 hours of productive time with the shop maintenance and administrative type stuff filling in the rest.
What a gorgeous piece! I wonder what the owner will name it? _Flying V? Daphne? Dryad? Momiji?_ (Japanese for "maple leaf.) Will there be a cove stripe? A boot-top? If so, what color(s)? Another great video in a great series.
Well we don't buff out spar varnish because that ruins what uv protection it has. Re-varnishing is an expected maintenance procedure. I haven't got any experience with automotive finishes. I have heard of few people who have experimented with automotive paint but I haven't heard of how the results last. For some reason, there hasn't been much of a crossover between automotive and marine finishes, especially when it comes to clear coats.
This is awesome! Our friend Neal has a cold-molded sailboat he recently put up for sale (or sail!) We live aboard a Cheoy Lee 41' but would love a classic wooden yacht someday. Check out our latest video if you want to see the details on our buddies cold molded boat for sale! :)
Great source of dust is, of course, your clothes and probably the best type of clothes for releasing dust are Stanfields. But then who would ever give up their Stanfields?
Hello Mark. On the Small Saw that you like to replace the Damage one . Go to EBay and Type this in and see if you like it.( Suizan Japanese Flush Cut Trim Saw 5 inch Hand Saw?). Hope this is It. Greg of Ohio
dont worry to much about wastage of Masking Tape and such wich you menshioned in some older episodes. i run tru idk 7 or 8 50m rolls of 50mm wide Masking Tape for Work. :\
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
the colour is amazing
You just saved me a small fortune in brushes, varnish and mineral spirits.
Happy to be of service.
That is a work of art!
Morning Mark looks like a fine piece of furniture
Morning Mark. We could go on like this all day!
Your customer is going to get all manner of compliments. Wicked good looking craft. 🇨🇦
she's looking absolutely mint!
Thanks. I was going for Rocky Road but I'll take mint if that's all you got.
@@Nomadboatbuilding haha! sorry, Mint is a very northern English way of saying awesome! :D
@@jennifercash1093 I got that. I just can't help being a wise ass.
@@Nomadboatbuilding :D
gorgeous
Man that looks great
I just started using Le Tonk for the first time and your video could not be more timely! Thanks so much. Lots of great information that will save me a lot of headache.
You are so welcome!
The varnish just makes the wood come alive…. Great job- Just beautiful!
Yes it does!
Mark, I really liked your description of your process, thanks, and the finish is looking awesome. I gain a lot watching your work.
a work of art!
Beautiful finish, top class as always. Dust on varnish or paint is a constant nightmare. Sometimes choice of clothing can contribute to dust as mentioned earlier. Your pullover, tight knit as it is, will shed from the arms as you paint. Short of painting butt naked its always going to be a problem; complaints from the neighbours, cold day etc. You have my sympathy.
You could try paper overalls; we used to cut them off below the waist keeping the zip intact and just above the leg. You can reuse them. You might not fully eradicate the dust, but it might help keep the blood pressure down.
I hope your paint vault is a good solid fire proof bunker or away from the house. Linseed oil some times likes to go pyro when you least expect it. There was an incident a number of years back with a solvent filled rag on an aircraft where I worked. It spontaneously burst into flame in a dust bin in the cabin during maintance. A quick thinking guy picked up the bin and ran down three flights of stairs with the burning bin. Saved a Boeing 747 from a fiery end. The solvent was by the same manufacturer as your finishing pads.! Our safety guy told us, just because a product says its a low vapour, ie.low smell, doesn't mean its not harming your lungs. You just cant smell it as its doing it and you tend to expose yourself even more.
Well you’re probably quite right about my clothing, but mostly the shop is just way too loaded with fine dust. I gave it a good blow out before final coats which helped. The fire department has signed off on the paint room and the rags immediately go outside into a water filled pail.
Really good segment. Helpful varnishing tips as well as ongoing maintenance of a finishing process without piles of waste. 👍
woohoo! best part of Sunday so far.
That was a fine bit of editing! Great job!
Thanks
I really enjoy all the spontaneous problem solving on this build, I guess I thought it was going to be more formulaic!? I'm awed by the level of skill and quality of your project. So glad you posted and even gladder I found it! Thank you.
Well formulaic is usually possible when you are building the same boat or using the same process repeatedly. I’m jumping around to very different methods of construction so frequently that it leaves me in a constant state of innovation and problem solving. It’s what I enjoy too so maybe I'm just subconsciously constantly making things difficult for myself. I have a friend who is a product and furniture designer who calls me in for backup whenever he hits a problem wall.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Im a mature, land based carpenter and even though you've never "seen it all", I've seen enough that I get those calls too! I'm sure you wouldn't be surprised to find out just how many complicated carpentry hacks I've learned from you amazing boatbuilders. Thanks again.
At what point would you consider spraying the finish on? Thanks for sharing this project. 🇨🇦
Ah, well just wait another week or two.
Well this has been VERY instructive since I’m just about to varnish my restored Mirror Dinghy. Never would have thought about scotch brite but will be sure to use it. Also the tip about wetting out the varnish.
yep! It's a great trick
Very pretty........
Thank you! 😊
Thanks for this. Restoring teak on my Morris Leigh 30. I used their Le Tonkinois Bio-Impression as a primary coat and then applied first coat of Le Tonk No1 and took about 3-4 days to dry. Although it says you don’t need to thin, I think I will thin to see if that will speed drying.
I have found a fresh can kicks off reliably while an older partially used can takes longer to dry. I have no idea why that would be the case. Sometimes I think humidity plays a large role in speed of curing. When something take more than 24 hours to become dry to the touch, I assume it's because the underlying layer hasn't properly cured first. It's always worth reaching out to the manufacturer for answers to problems.
Beautiful! Now I definitely know that I’m too fussy with varnish. Watching how much you lay on I reckon that you’re moving about 30% quicker than I do and your finish flows out better as a result.
Lesson learned, thanks!
😎👍🍻
we do love our varnish...
Well stay fussy about your prep work. That’s important.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Will do, thanks! 👍🍻
I find your choice of varnish interesting. I used LeTonkinois for a few small projects, for the same reason as you: the vapours. It seems to dry much slower than less traditional varnishes. Great for having more time to correct things, but more time to collect dust.
I have noticed that too on some occasions. Could just be humidity or temperature. Regardless, I like the stuff.
Smell for me is a huge factor. My wife is like a bloodhound. She even gets jumpy about latex paint odours. If I keep the doors open for a couple hours she doesn’t complain too much about this stuff.
That had to be very rewarding when all that grain came to life under a finish.
You know it Bob!
Nice work. Shiney see your using the original varnish, have you tried their Marine no.1 ?????
No I haven't. Never had reason to try it instead.
@@Nomadboatbuilding well that mystery’s solved. 👍🎯
I love watching your videos. I tend to work too fast and you are teaching me to take it easy and pay attention to detail. What do you mean when you say 'solvent' or 'spirits'?
Paint thinner, turpentine or mineral spirits.
Hi Mark look no further than that scuzzy jumper for your dust love the vids ... Bob
The jumper is only half the trouble. I never wear it for finish coats either.
That finish wouldn't look out of place on a concert grand piano!
will this wooden boat be lighter than a glass boat? Was the plotting of the stay holes difficult? I sure there are lot of rules, on where it has to be, but this a handcrafted boat and it would be a little different than a factory produced boat. Thanks for showing the whole process. From mixing, to applying, to cleaning up. Not boring at all no seriously. Bill
In theory it should be lighter than a glass boat. That is the goal anyway. The rules stipulate a minimum weight of hull and deck per square metre. the goal is to hit as close to that as possible so that you can put more ballast into the keel where it can help you perform better, but all the boats should have the same overall minimum weight. It wasn't too hard to plot the shroud holes. Just did it on the drawings. The mast shifts around on purpose in use so they won't always be bang on anyway.
About how many coats will you use in total?
At about 6-8 I start asking myself if it’s looking good. Did I get a reasonable dust free, blemish free result this coat? Bearing in mind there are three coats of epoxy under that, so maybe about 10 in total. More would be good but there is cost to consider and as I said, the customer is good about maintenance so at 5 - 6 coats, we are well protected. Everything beyond that is vanity.
Nice work! But I wonder why you dont use their marine varnish? Its supposed to have better UV protection. Or are they all the exact same product?
It's virtually the same stuff. Just processed a little differently. I go with what I am used to for the most part.
After the boat is out of the shop or maybe cover it.
With all the doors and windows open
Fire up a leaf blower. Wave it around the ceiling and the top of the workbench. I bet you get clouds of dust at first. Then you will gradually get rid of the airborne dust. .
I do that once in a while but it's a full day job cleaning up after.
Have you ever tried using a badger hair shaving brush? More for detail work than anything else. If you have not, I would be happy to send one from my collection for you to give a try.
I haven’t tried that but I think I have one kicking around. Sounds like a great idea for the tight spots!
Beautiful. Slow down on your panning shots.
I’ll work on that. It’s tough to keep a steady hand and not trip over stuff in the shop though.
Just a thought here, could it be that jumper you're wearing is leaving dust and tiny fibers on the work as your arm passes over?
Mostly the shop just has a ton of free floating dust. Need to clean out the rafters more often.
Have you ever tried Bloxygen? It's an aerosol spray that is heavier than oxygen . You spray it into the headspace in a container and it displaces the oxygen, and gives finishes a longer shelf life.
I have not. I try to keep product acquisition to a minimum plus if it isn’t sold locally, I’m unlikely to use it.
Wetting your floor helps cut down in dust quite a bit. Stapling some plastics sheet up on those rafters probably wouldn't hurt either. A person walking on the other side of the house could knock down fine dust. I hate dust.
I do wet down the floor and should tarp up above but I have so much crap hanging from the ceiling it's too much trouble.
In finishing racing cars and motorcycles we used the 50-50 rule... does it look good from 50 feet or at 50 mph?
I'd say this thing is as good looking a racer as anything I ever built.
Thanks
I really appreciate your craftsmanship. Quick question - how long has the 2.4m project taken you and how many hours a week would you spend building it? Just curious. Thanks!
The project was 800 hours in total over the course of a year. Probably the same amount has gone into the videos as well, or maybe more. My work day varies in length but it’s probably 5-6 hours of productive time with the shop maintenance and administrative type stuff filling in the rest.
@@Nomadboatbuilding wow. That’s amazing. It is a beautiful boat!
What a gorgeous piece! I wonder what the owner will name it? _Flying V? Daphne? Dryad? Momiji?_ (Japanese for "maple leaf.)
Will there be a cove stripe? A boot-top? If so, what color(s)?
Another great video in a great series.
No cove stripe. No boot top. Keeping it simple. The owner has not revealed any names yet.
Brush strokes in a varnished boat add an authenticity that is honest and therefore valuable as you know it’s hand crafted.
In fact I maybe touching on that point in a later video.
varnish looks great after it just done and buffed yes. But it fails over time in the sun. Why not spray automotive clear over the epoxy instead?
Well we don't buff out spar varnish because that ruins what uv protection it has. Re-varnishing is an expected maintenance procedure. I haven't got any experience with automotive finishes. I have heard of few people who have experimented with automotive paint but I haven't heard of how the results last. For some reason, there hasn't been much of a crossover between automotive and marine finishes, especially when it comes to clear coats.
This is awesome! Our friend Neal has a cold-molded sailboat he recently put up for sale (or sail!) We live aboard a Cheoy Lee 41' but would love a classic wooden yacht someday. Check out our latest video if you want to see the details on our buddies cold molded boat for sale! :)
Very cool!
Great source of dust is, of course, your clothes and probably the best type of clothes for releasing dust are Stanfields. But then who would ever give up their Stanfields?
True Dat!
Ive never seen foam brushes work for anything other than stains and even then its marginal
Hello Mark. On the Small Saw that you like to replace the Damage one . Go to EBay and Type this in and see if you like it.( Suizan Japanese Flush Cut Trim Saw 5 inch Hand Saw?). Hope this is It. Greg of Ohio
Thanks Greg.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Mark is that it?
@@gregoryh4601 nope, afraid not but thanks for trying.
dont worry to much about wastage of Masking Tape and such wich you menshioned in some older episodes. i run tru idk 7 or 8 50m rolls of 50mm wide Masking Tape for Work. :\
wowza!
ALL painting jobs are 90% preparation.
Indeed they are, except the bad ones.
I wouldn’t mind paying a few buck more for a badger hair brush. IMO anyone who’s out collecting badger hair is worth the money their asking.
I'm with yu brother. Those nasty little things can't be giving it up easily.