International 2.4mR Sailboat Project - Episode 53 - Painting the bottom
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- Опубликовано: 25 сен 2021
- This is episode fifty-three of an ongoing series following the construction of a wooden International 2.4 metre class sailboat. The design is called the Stradivari Mk IV by Hasse Malmsten.
My website: www.nomadboatbuilding.com
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2.4 Metre class Association: www.inter24metre.org
Plans available from Malmsten Boats here: www.24mr.se
A short history of the Mini 12 and 2.4 Metre Class:
www.ukassociation2-4mr.co.uk/i...
If Stradivarius had been a boatbuilder... Brilliant and well done.
I have been dreaming to learn this work. Nothing more satisfying than this video for me.
Glad to hear that!
Beautiful workmanship! And yes, Bob Flexner’s book is the best by far! Good on ya for mentioning it.
Looking great, nothing more satisfying than peeling off masking tape to leave a crisp line!
A stunningly beautiful execution of a 2.4m sailboat. This is why I feel boat builders are master craftsmen. The pure sculptural nature of the hull shape complimented by the deep color of the wood grain. A reflection of mind and skill focused on such a pure form.
Pulling the tape was like unwrapping a present, Thanks for all the tips and great result. Congrats Mark!
Those ""well known"" Piano builders will be jalous in front of the quality of this marvellous 2.4. Bravo, Congratulations and stay safe.
How elegant is this beautiful boat. Wow factor
Really a credit to your craft and skill. If I was your client ,I would be torn between rigging and sailing it or bringing it home and displaying it in my living room as a work of art.
The white works well below the water line with the warmth of the timber and probably the best choice in the end. A few scrapes on the white from use, wont be as harrowing to the owner if it was the varnish.
As a piano refinisher, in a small shop like yours, I can offer you a little spray advice of draping plastic around the perimeter of your shop. It's quick and cheap and keeps the overspray off your tools and workbench. Nice job on the boat.
Also, I spray waterborne products by E.S.C. (Eco-Steps Coatings) out of San Diego, CA. Amazing products, great customer service. I can spray and sand and respray within 30 minutes, up to four coats in one day, and achieve a "piano" finish.
Wow, looks great!!! I love a good spray finish. Use it all the time on my Hawaiian hard wood furniture finishes.
I really like the white bottom paint applied here. On my monitor it looks like a very pale tan eggshell or Navajo white. Tan being a very pale shade of brown, it contrasts well with the reddish brown of the topsides. But all that may be an artifact of the lighting, your camera, RUclips compression algorithms, my monitor's settings, your editing software, etc. Even if it's the purest of snowy whites it doubtless looks spectacular, especially in person.
Good to know. Chasing down the right colour balance is actually a major part of my editing activity. That and sound.
Beautiful work! I spray in my woodworking shop and, to contain the overspray, spring clamp a long cotton drop cloth to the joints. You can roll it up and leave it up by the ceiling in between spray sessions. It will also keep your shop dust away from the paint.
Just one word: WOW! 🇨🇦
You are building the boat I promised myself as a project years ago. A thing of beauty and I’m so glad someone of your quality has done it. For those who have not sailed a 2.4m it is a huge amount of fun - they go to windward like a train. Image the satisfaction of great sailing while looking this good!
Good description.
Beautiful, a truly artisan.
Effing good job on the bottom. Overspray, shmoverspray, it happens. When you sweat the small details you end up with a damn good job.
Staggeringly beautiful.
This yacht is such a beautiful object it really is an art form. The attention to detail and your aesthetic considerations about various aspects of the livery have been so inspiring to watch and listen to. As a retired art teacher I was particularly impressed with your comments about checking the tonal value of paint colours against a grey primer. The owner not only gets to admire such a wonderful object, but also gets to sail it. As a sailor I am VERY envious. There’s a saying in NZ ‘that man deserves a DB’ (a brand of beer) well you sir deserve a crate!
That white is going to look really flashy when the boat is heeling over. Much more so than a darker color. Perfect choice.
That’s what I've been saying all along.
It's exceptional. Great work!
No doubt that it is!!
Glad you like it!
Impressive work and great attention to detail. I just found your channel and am looking forward to watching many more episodes 😀
Welcome aboard!
OMG, those tracking shots starting at 4:05 are stunning!!!
Edit: I'm thinking that's the proper cinema graphic term for the continuous moving shot. If not, I'd like to know. Whatever it's called, it was amazing.
Agreed. Great camera work … again!!!
Thanks again Bob.
Im building a boat at the moment,that will have alot of fijian mahogany and teak!,my dude,youre work!awesome!!!!
Thank you. Good luck with your project.
Beautiful
Upside down and painted like that it looks like a futuristic attack submarine
Worked hard watching this one🎯
It keeps looking better
After JJ Cale and Merle H. Bob's one of my favorite Okie's.I bought my hvlp set up around 93 (Bink"s) it's still running great . Those 0.4mm plastic drops 9'x12' will make a big diff with overspray and if you lay down cloth runners and mist them that will help a lot.I spray a lot of lacquer but that is one thing tricky with hvlp the orange peel it does help if you can cut the product as much as possible or add a flow enhancer because they atomize the crap out of the product and its really hard for it to lay down properly before it flashes off. Thanks for posting Mark, its one of the few times where laying on the couch is time well spent.
It's all that shop setup to make spray possible that kind of kills it from a time
/cost benefit perspective but I do love the finish one can get.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I agree, setting up for a one off is a pita but you know you're a bit of a perfectionist , even if it's going to be underwater. Honestly I wait for the weather and throw a drop on the ground and spray out side if possible.
Freaky good work.
On your recommendation i have just bought Bob Flexner's book on Wood Finishing. Only a quick glance so far but it looks excellent. With the two small boats i have built i found the finishing by far the hardest thing to do and i had to learn a lot by trial and error. If i had seen the book or your videos beforehand life would have been a lot easier. Thank you for all the excellent advice you have given as i have learnt so much from you.
I'm glad to be of service. I was actually thinking of picking up the newest edition of Bob's book myself just to see what the latest developments are. You left that comment about auto-body clay didn't you? I'm going to check that out fir sure. never heard of the stuff.
Stunning...rr
Art
Blue painter's tape will do the job and it's cheap, but it doesn't have enough crepe to make the contours easily. Next time try a roll of true crepe masking tape. Might make it a bit easier. But still a beautiful job!
I only used the blue tape to hold the paper on. I used a pro fine line tape for the actual waterline. It's proper stretchy stuff that leaves a razor edge.
Mark, you commented that next time you might use a water based paint. Be careful water based products are not necessarily any safer for you than solvent based products. All paints (even household latex emulsions) contain some solvent, but solvent isn't necessarily the most hazardous component. Always look at the Safety Data Sheet and compare them to find the product that suits you best.
I realize that. The solvents in water-based are even more volatile that oil based. At any rate, I would most likely be rolling the boat outdoors for spraying. It’s too much trouble in the shop. Thanks for the concern though.
I saw a fleet of similar fiberglass boats racing at the Seminole County Sail Fest in Sanford, Fl. in the 1990's. They looked like a fleet of 12 meters racing far away but they were go-kart size versions of 12 meters just a few hundred yards away. They were Illusion 2.4s. Most of the guys transported their boat on a plywood cradle in the back of their pickup truck. They removed the ballast (lead shot in small bags), lifted the hull onto the cradle, tied it down and drove away.
There are a batch of illusions at the club where this will live too. I don’t think they allow lead shot for this particular class though. It has to be solid pigs of a minimum size.
@@Nomadboatbuilding The ballast was in bimini type cloth bags and might not have been lead shot. I just assumed it was. There was also a nice size fleet of Thistles at the Sail Fest. One appeared to be very old and made of laminated strips of wood. It was hull #1.
Wonder how much of the dust issues are from dust in your ceiling joist? A finished white ceiling would help with lighting also
I'm quite positive it's probably all of them. The wife and kids like to have foot stomping arguments right overhead after every fresh varnish application.
For tonal value, take a picture with your phone and convert the image to black and white. Easier to tell if the tones match in gray values.
There's an excellent idea.
Mark, in furniture making it is common practise to varnish in an entirely different way. We thin the varnish down 50/50 with white spirit, or, if adding an oil, 33% each of oil, varnish and white spirit, slap it on any old how, and wipe it off quickly (within 10 minutes) with a cloth or paper towel. Critically, you then leave it a full 24 hours before repeating. With a gentle de-nib between coats using maybe just a screwed up piece of brown paper, the process is pretty immune to dust, and builds up a lovely finish without all the careful brushing necessary when you use the stuff neat. For some reason this really traditional finish has been called the Maloof method, after Sam Maloof, even though it had been done that way for centuries before he was born. Can you see any reason why this wouldn't work on a boat?
I’m quite familiar with your method. I use it too and it has its uses on boats, but it isn’t as durable a finish as full strength varnish or at least doesn’t yield the depth of finish a brushed on varnish does. I would use your formula on very hard woods that take a lot of abuse like a gumwood rubrail or caprail. Someplace where scratches are guaranteed and a quick and frequent finish touch up is desired over a high lustre. I also use it on canoe and kayak paddles.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Interesting, thanks Mark.
😎👍🍻
not a boat guy, but this is beautiful.
Thanks
First, she's beauuuuutiful....! And did I miss something? There's a hole in the side. Why....? On spraying, full bodied coatings don't work well in HVLP cause the atomized drops don't have enough velocity to go splat. Hence the stippled effect. So a regular gun at higher pressure works better. But I know, the shop.. Top-tip, when you're spraying, don't trigger off the air between passes. That way, the material will be properly atomized when you trigger the next pass. But she's a beautiful thing.
I was using thinned paint, approximately 50% naphtha, but yes higher pressure would have helped. I’ve always used high pressure guns in the past. Noted on the trigger action. I was actually playing with that.
Dude where have you been keepin your twin? You need to get him on the tools more often.
I would if he would just show up for work more often.
wow, that keel! So boxy looking! Do the rules insist on a constant chord from root to tip??
Not sure actually. I’m not the designer so I didn’t question those details.
@@Nomadboatbuilding fair point... but you have to agree it looks a little clunky... I know it won't really be seen, and it may have advantages, like getting the required ballast lower, but it sure ain't pretty!
@@realnutteruk1 I'm totally with you. First question I asked actually.
Hi can i have your advice about fiberglass the bottom of a wood boat? It a good or a bad idea?
Well that is a difficult question to answer. What type of construction is it? Plywood; lapstrake; carvel with caulked seams?Why do you want to fibreglass it? What kind of condition is it in?
Well that is a difficult question to answer. What type of construction is it? Plywood; lapstrake; carvel with caulked seams?Why do you want to fibreglass it? What kind of condition is it in?
Its plywood construction. It start falling a slide and open between slides. Maybe 10yrs out of water before we get it.
Then yes, fibreglassing could be fine but make sure the structure is solid first. You should also bring the surfaces to be glassed down to bare wood if possible.
Mark. That is one sexy sailboat you made. Love the Two Colors together. She going to be one fast boat in the Water. Mark where did you get the Coffee Mug? Check this RUclipsr out how he made hie Shop. Maybe this could be your Finish Shop. Bendheim Boards on RUclips. Take Care
Got the mug as a gift. Local potter I believe. I'll check out the spray booth option but I doubt I can make it happen in a this shop.
But what he doesn’t tell you is you will never see this boat sail.
Oh no. It will certainly sail. This customer is quirky but doesn’t maintain a showroom of shiny things. He uses them.
Congratulation for your hability to build thise buitiful boat. If you permit, let me give my opinion. Make it shorter, do not talk unecessery thinks, minor think, do not interect with the camera. By thise way you could reduce video duration by 10 minutes.
I try to keep the duration as low as I can but the story finds its own length.
@@Nomadboatbuilding jusy to know, 4x showing drinkink coffe? See what about is the topic, objetive of the video.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Great build, I will give you of course Thumb up. Of course you diserve. But please not with unecessery coments recorded, like 10 times same issue, about the"dust" and also arround 7x the same issue, your workshop is not suitable for paintings. Interesting are your work, not your personal doubts & troubles.
For the record... there are about 11,000 of us, or so, that like the videos just the way they are.
@@trout4bait549 thank you. I appreciate that.
I think from alot of boatwork pre-coat is the worst primer in the world down at our shop we use petit ez-prime sands better application is better as well as filling capability pre kote works for fiberglass if using a enamel topcoat but if you are doing fiberglass you might as well go awlgrip .....better idea would have been a two part pro-line or interlux barrier coat better quality paint job for the bottom you are definatly not a finisher.
I’ll give the Petitt a try at the next opportunity and see if it works any better for me but you're right, I don’t claim to be a finisher. At my end of the market I just have to do everything myself. There aren’t really any dedicated finishing shops around to pass this work off to.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I have worked with German builders for years your finish carpentry is better then most at least you have half of it, mostly I do finish work as a foreman in a shipyard I spend about half of my year sanding another quarter in painting,staining,varnishing, the rest of the time with fiberglass and epoxy if you need any advice on anything just let me know I respect the work you do
Just my opinion but I think your twin brother might be a bit better looking.
It has been pointed out to me before.
Seems like a uv cured finish might work out.
They’re certainly very durable
I’m not a fan of the catalyzed or conversion finishes. I prefer products that are easy to deal with for both myself and my clients who will be doing their own maintenance.
01:52 Chỉ cần anh nói yêu, em sẽ bám theo anh suốt đời. 🤡
Peeling off that tape is so satisfying.
I knew you would like that.