I finally took the plunge(pun intended), and bought a track saw. I went with the DeWalt, I also bought the router attachment, track clamps and a Freud Industrial blade for it, but I'm still waiting to take delivery of those so I'm kind of stuck just staring at it while I wait for the new blade to arrive (as I do not want to cut into the rails until I get the new blade). I did consider the Festool but I just couldn't bring myself to spend another $400 for a tool that arguably does the same job. Love your channel. Jim
I have become a big fan of track saws and I now have this DeWalt and really like it. The DeWalt does have the router guide and that was an important consideration when buying the saw. I wish these had been around when I first started woodworking, I could have saved a lot of money on the progression of saws that went through my shop, the radial arm, the inexpensive table saw etc. I have both the long and short rails. I just trimmed the bottom of some solid oak doors that were 1-1/3" thick and there was plenty of power to do that and the cut quality almost rivals the big table saw, but you could never pass the end of an 80" long 125 lb. door through the table saw. Was also able to put the 3 degree bevel on the latch side easily and with only minor clean up. The DeWalt simply gets me the quality I wanted at the price point that made a lot more sense to me than the Festool.
Dewalt won’t fall off the track when doing bevel cuts like the festool will. Also the dewalt blade guard is flat and allows you to trim the bottom of door whilst they are hung, clamping the track to the door. Festool does have the slightly cleaner cut (very marginal) and has a scribe cut feature for MFC board. You can of course scribe cut with the dewalt but you have to manually set the depth to scribe and then set it back to the previous depth after your scribe cut. The dewalt dual splinter guard tracks are a gimmick in my opinion. And if you want to use rail dogs for a cross cut setup ups need to remove one of the splinter guards, so the rail contacts the bench dogs. All things considered though I went for the dewalt. No regrets.
I haven't read all the comments here but of the ones I have read no-one has mentioned that the track for the DeWalt is usable on both sides. Marc barely mentioned this but it is a big selling point to me. My first use of my Festool was to make a 9 foot cut opening in a tall hallway panel. One side of the opening was easy pushing the saw up the cut line but the other side I had to stand high on a ladder and cut in the downward direction. Much more difficult especially with vacuum hose and power cord. The DeWalt reversible track would have made this much easier and I could see its benefits in many situations.
very very informative. I have a ts75 as I install entry doors 3 in thick. I just got the Dewalt and I like it better for smaller especially because depth scale is in inches. The attachments are also a fraction of the cost of Festool.
I have just settled on a festool TS55 and the thing that swayed me is an after market guide rail square called a GRS-16 that makes square cuts extremely easy. It will fit the default standard rail design of festool, makita and triton track saws but not bosch or dewalt. This fits with your "big picture" view. New products are being made for track saws but mostly for what is seen as the standard track. Moving away from that "standard" track a little bit like makita with its "anti-failover lip" does not stop other things working with it but a completely different design like bosch and dewalt does prevent the use of after market items.I know hind site is wonderful.All the best.
I don’t know about this particular track saw, but most dewalt blades can be used once and then tossed. They work, but very meh. As for the tool itself, lighter is better. I am in the market for one just to play with, but occasionally use LOL. The Festool just feels bulky (there is also a video by Ave about inferior components) so it isn’t really for me. Makita (corded) is the lightest one so I reckon that’s a good one to stick with.
Festool is an excellent brand but their prices are just too prohibitive for most of us. I think the minor differences between the Festool and the Dewalt illustrate the fact that the "You get what you pay for" isn't always necessarily true. Thanks for the video.
Festool is like Snap-On. They both make a high quality product and charge several times the price of a comparable, competitive brand. There are tradesmen that will only buy Festool and try to sell you on them being “ the best in the business!” I’m not suggesting that they’re not. But when you have to pay 3 and 4 times the price, are you really getting your ROI? For 95% of the jobs you would need a track saw for, the Dewalt or Makita would do the job every bit as well as the Festool. I just don’t see throwing hundreds if not thousands of additional $$$ just for the name!
@@aeromedical6750 Yeah, the only weak part in your point is that Makita and Dewalt track saws are only like ~30% cheaper, and you idd get what you pay for.
@Gary Hochstetler well, I have used festool and makita myself before chosing festool for my hobby needs, so that sums up my experience, not here to argue )
@Gary Hochstetler that was 6 month ago when I was still choosing, I have used only festool back then and couldn't find makita to get my hands on. A lot have changed since then 🐱
This video is spot on regarding choices. I would personally go with DeWalt because I think they are more rugged (well... as much as value engineer will allow) and I would only use the tracks to cut straight thingys a such as the edge of a deck. But if you are into fine woodworking, especially a system, as well as less concerned about a motor that can handle more abuse, then the 50% up-charge compared to the DeWalt is irrelevant. A tool is made to do a job, if the returns justifies the investment, the cost becomes a non-issue. DeWalt for me, but I ain’t cutting premium curtly maple veneered panels.
Found to avoid break out on the upper surface just drop the blade 5mm or so and run the saw backwards so blade cuts into surface then proceed full depth forward. Very handy when doing woodgrain panel doors. (Good to have a block at end of cut)
Yep, that's a good old trick. On Big static table saws (industrial) you have a scoring knife that does the job (very bad for cutting yourself though, because it runs all the time. You have to lower it when you don't need it).
Quick question Marc: aside from blade and splinter guards... Don't the festool and dewalt have different blades (perhaps quality differs) installed on them? Just wondering if that could account for some difference as well.
Very good comparison. An excellent exposé of the salient features of both machines. You did a commendable job. Full thumbs up mate. Take good care, and thanks for sharing (so humbly, yet objectively) your knowledge.
Just bought the DeWalt DCS520 60v, cordless track saw version and ordered the new DashBoard MFT Portable Workshop System with 92” table, extruded tracks and accessories (also compatible with Festool, Makita and, I think, Triton tracksaws). Together, the two systems should make for a nice workshop or on-site cutting station that outshines the Festool MFT.
After contacting many tool retailers many say that both Makita and Dewalt is coming on strong to overtake Festool Plunge Saw as per monthly sales. Have you looked at the Makita and do you have any comments plus or minus on the Makita?
Outstanding review. I’m at a cross-roads between investing in a track saw that seems one dimensional, yet necessary if you use them a lot….or, a very good saw guide, which is cheaper, and goes with my existing saw. Truetrac has a well built guide out that has gotten exceptional reviews, that I’m seriously considering, for just ripping plywood. It’s more expensive than the other guides on the market, but still half the cost of a good trac saw. I’ve not hear anyone give me a solid argument against the saw guide. At least for my limited use. This was very informative….well done.
Hey there Adnaan, as well as any other fellow fans in the wood whisperer community. Do you mean it is possible to use a Dewalt Circular saw with a dewalt track? For example, I have the Dewalt Flexvolt Cordless circular saws models DCS577 and DCS575. The DCS577 Worm-Style Drive shoe is much longer & narrower than the 575's (which is identical to the DCS570) 20V XR Cordless. If either of these will work with the Dewalt trck that'd be great news for me and the first I've heard of it. How would this work, ie which Dewalt Track Model & what accessories would be needed? Any accurate info or advice would be most appreciated. Thanks again for the video and info btw
Thank you so much for the effort you make to give us such interesting videos. Although I got this DeWalt track saw system over a year ago I've just recently started to use it on projects and I'm having misgivings about the whole thing - especially considering the top notch price is perhaps not reflected in a top notch tool. On sheet (plywood etc.) it is very handy and fast but on higher quality woods you'd be well advised to think a bit before you use this saw. 1. The saw blade is only near true when it is locked into the 90/0 position. The tilting design for the blade cannot ever be fully accurate as the tool body (and blade) does not hinge around a shaft. The rotation is guided along a quadrant curved rail at the front and separately at the back. It is possible and likely there will be a millimeter of difference from the front of the saw to the back when the body is rotated. You can understand this if you inspect the tool and method of rotation. Give it all a wiggle and find yourself disappointed at what you observe. 2. I've not yet come across any mention but everyone should importantly be aware that when you want to check how true the saw blade is set then you cannot use the saw base plate for a reference. The saw can only work if it is located on a track -- the track is actually the base plate reference for the cut. You have to make any accuracy calibration recognising the track governs all. I found (the hard way) my brand new tracks were actually slightly cupped (tilting the saw out of true) - this can be overcome by ensuring you press down straight and vertical on to the saw thus making certain the track is flat under the saw. Two handle operation works well for this but I think you have work out each long cut to allow you to walk alongside and no long arm reaching. 3. Obviously bends, dings and worn rubbers on the tracks have to be avoided. 4. My saw has vibrated from new. It growls and shakes when starting and I have heard this happening on other videos too - therefore, I think this is just part of the speed control and start up. It has no effect on cutting. However, my saw also shudders and grumbles frequently when it should really be just a nice smooth whining cutting machine. I have come across other reviewers and video comments highlighting this exact same thing. I have been in contact with DW service here in the U.K. and of course they say send it back for inspection - but I'm fed up with this hassle. Yesterday, I noticed a lot of sparking from the motor brushes and this being a new tool I then just let the motor run continuously for about 10 minutes to bed the motor brushes. This very much reduced the sparking and also reduced the in work vibrations. I'm wondering if the problem is poor build practice or quality control. Anyway, I still have a problem to fix with mine and I'm not the only one. Overall, it is a handy tool and could be a 'must have' for any worker. Right now, perhaps this DeWalt DW520 example does not warrant the endless glowing appraisals. Perhaps it does have some negatives.
I've had nothing but issues from one Grizzly Industrial products. My wife and I drove over 5 hours, and spent over $1200 at the Grizzly showroom in Missouri. Honestly the showroom is amazing. The product I got...not so much. I've had over 10 separate issues including defective, and back ordered parts sent to me. Grizzly did offer me $100 to keep the pos 😂😂😂. I like high quality tools, and won't hesitate to spend the money on them. SCM, felder, festool, saw stop etc. I like decent hand tools such as snap on, Milwaukee, dewalt, and I even think husky is decent due to being able to swap tools easily when they break one the job. We even have some harbor freight tools that I think are very very good. My experience with grizzly has been unsatisfactory at best. Not to mention they will not post my review on their actual website. Hopefully my review will help someone looking for equipment.
Questions... Would the blades interchange between the Festool and the Dewalt? Would the quality of the cut equalize if the blades were the same between the 2 saws?
This saw is $599. Makita also makes one for $399. The Concord carpenter did a review on all three head to head and both did just as well as the Festool. Only thing Festool had on them was dust collection. Dust collection isn't worth a $500-$700 price difference.
The Makita, although it's a fine unit, does have ONE downside compared to and DeWalt and newer Festool ones: The dust extraction nozzle bulges out from the side plate, so you can't run it right up against a wall or the inside wall of a cabinet. I noticed Mark's Festool has this issue as well, the new ones don't.
@@PikkaBird that is one reason that I went with the DeWalt. The use of both sides of the track too. I do wish the DeWalt had the tab that keeps the saw from tilting when cutting bevels, like the Makita.
+Amerijam Acres Frankly I like that he didn't... this video is well over a year old so whatever the price was then is pretty irrelevant. A 20 second amazon (or your favorite retailer) search will give you an actual answer (rather than anchor people on a price-point 17 months ago, you know?
I’ve found that splinter guards don’t do as much as you might think. You still can get tear out. The sharper the blade, the less tear out. The wobble in the blade, which is a quality of both the blade and the arbor, also determines tear out.
So 5 years later what is your take. My general feeling about tools with lots of moving parts is that they are only as good as the support network. Dewalt is pretty darn good.
just listening to the motors of both on your video, the Festool sounds stronger, I've always been a DeWalt tool fan so I would most certainly go for it if I had to purchase one or the other
Hey! Great video, I am considering buying the DeWalt saw at the moment so this is very informational for me! I was wondering if DeWalt track is compatible with clamps from Festool/Makita? I mean the ones that slide in the groove on the underside of the track. Where I live Makita clamps are only half the price of DeWalt clamps, so I am investigating how these go together.
Great comparison. I was surprised that you said that Dewalt copied Festool at the end. I remember using a Dewalt Tracksaw in Germany in 1999 and it's been about time that they are coming to North America. I'm not sure when Festool started making them, but Dewalt has been in the market of making these for a long time.
Excellent review. I have the similar point of view where I own all high end and cordless DeWALT. I know Festool is nice but DeWALT is very close. Thanks,
It appeared you moved the Festool saw slower ??? Could that have made a difference in the quality of the cut...? Was the blade spread the sam on both ?
You mentioned the cut edge. Did you use the same blade on both saws? If not, there's probably the difference. The Festool is about $660 on line and the DeWalt comes with a longer track for about $150 less or can be had with two tracks one 59in & one 109in for about $70 less. And you can use the DeWalt on either side of the track. Sounds like a no brainer to me. Buy a kregg saw guide or make your own. Oh, I almost forgot, you can get the DeWalt in a cordless model also.
Heey Marc, when i watched this review, the only thing you did was saw sheet goods. Is that all what these plunge saws do. Or can you saw boards without the track, say 10" wide. Or do i still need a normal circlesaw for that. Reason is, i do alot of garden project with scaffolding boards. I was thinking of getting that Festool.
If both are the same, and dont need the system, pick the cheaper one. But if i go for the video alone and both were the same type, i would pick the dewalt. Looks like the security system for the blade is better, even so slightly and the plunge system looks like a better grip.
You will need to buy 3 of the makita and hope you get one straight flat track out of the 3. The saw quality itself is quite excellent but the tracks have poor quality control. However I do believe the makita will fit the festool track so you could buy just the saw and then pay a little more for the festool quality track.
Josh Sternadel ive used them both, frankly have not noticed a difference in their performance, at least not a $1000 difference. Festool does offer a 3meter single piece track as an option. Buy a Forrest saw blade, it makes all the difference.
@@carls6359 Thanks for the info. I tried to get the Makita but got 2 with bad tracks. Finally gave up and got the DeWalt and the store gave me it for the same price as the Makita due to the issues I had. I may have had just a run of bad luck but I'm quite happy with the DeWalt. I would agree that for a finish cut on either a Forrest blade is a must.
FYI the anti reverse lock is not an extra safety for kickback , It's meant so that if you're working on a sloped roof, your saw doesn't fall off when you let go.
Im one of those who bought the original 28 v Track saw from Dewalt which got its battery production halted in 2007. Dewalt bsically orphaned all the dewalt owners using the 28 v battery system. During that time those 28 v tools were not too cheap so many contractors bought them as in investiment into their company. If Dewalt had any consceience they would offer a free trade in for their newest tools matching the functions of the 28 V tools becoming not functional. Luckily for me I bought also a 110v Dewalt track saw shortly I bought the cordless Tracksaw.
I will stick with my Rockwell/Porter Cable 314 4.5'' circ saw. Works beautifully and reliably gives perfect cuts. No need to get the newest gadget. I made my own guides/tracks for it, so it does the same job in the same way. With a Forest 4.5'' blade in it, it cuts like a laser and veneered plys are splinter free, but Oak ply will have some slight splinters due to the nature of oak. Good review though. Thanks
Question to owners of the tool: When you cut a piece of wood, don't you find that the splinter guard gets cut out of line at the start and end of the guide rail? Also, doesn't the splinter guard get cut and made out of line at the ends which are not compressed by the material being cut? If this is true, it means if you join two together or need to use the full length of one accurately, you can't be sure that you are properly lining it up with the designated cut line and don't have full control/tear out protection at each end of the guide rail. This would mean that joining two rails together isn't going to give you zero clearance tear out protection along the length and you can't be sure that your cut is going to match the line you are trying to follow.
On his initial cut he used a sheet of ply longer then the track. Thus cutting the rubber splinter guard end to end. Unfortunately he did not explain it well. I actually watched that portion of the video twice to make sure that’s what actually took place.
I don't do woodworking often. I'll follow instructions in youtube woodworking if there is good practices. Do I have to buy a cordless or cord track saw? I'm planning to buy a circular saw as well. But I think two products are similar. Do I need to select one of them? Owning two power tools, the circular saw and the track saw, are overkill?
I'm torn three ways... After seeing this review the first time I was convinced I wanted the DeWalt.. I took a class at WoodCraft and used the Festool... Has anyone done a review similar to this but for the Makita?
The DeWalt is decent quality, made in Czech republic (a very modern country)- it's the last tool that B&D now makes in Europe (reminds me of the old ELU stuff). The tracks for the DeWalt are hit and miss though. The Makita is made in the UK, and side by side felt cheaper to the DeWalt (stickers not straight), the rubber knob for the score setting falls off, and there as a little more side to side play when you torsion it. The DeWalt has a rugged no-frills feel, just the track is cheap - ditto for the Makita track too. I originally wanted to buy the Makita, but examining them side by side I went with the DeWalt. The cord on the Makita is really short for some reason (like 6 feet!) whereas on the DeWalt is useable. The Festo with matching fences seems over priced for all it's plastic parts - and their marketing is hyped up too much - unless you drink from the kool-aid. None of these saws are as good as a cabinet saw cut wise and speed, but they work great on-site. Get one before they start making them in china!
Just bought my first track saw. Went with the Makita. like the fact that I can use it with Festool tracks and the MFT system. Not that I'll ever own the MFT but I'm thinking about making one of my own after watching many videos here on RUclips.
Hej, I'm really enjoying your channel, learning a lot here. Just one thing I'm wondering - as you are such a huge fan of clamps ;-) - wouldn't it be necessary to clamp the rails in place? How come they're not moving on the wood and messing up the straight line?
+Fabian Lindner The tracks have rubber strips on the bottom that causes friction and holds them in place. Clamping is always a good way to insure that it won't move but the rubber alone does surprisingly well.
Great video! I have a really quick question: Are you left-handed? I ask because I am. In case you are; how does that affect the way you use these saws?
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG !! BLADE ON RIGHT SIDE OF SAW, IS A LEFT HANDED SAW , BLADE AT CENTERLINE OF YOUR BODY !! YOU WOULD CUT LEFT HANDED , MOVING ALONG THE WASTE SIDE SUPPORTED BY RIGHT HAND , PERFECT ! CHEERS
I appreciate the comparison. I was almost sold on the Dewalt. However one thing ultimately swayed me. The price on the Dewalt is tempting. But the Festool "system" has a huge draw. I do want the domino. I do want the MFT table. I really like the dust collection on Festool. So the overall system is what makes it worth the extra money.
The Dewalt TS dust collection is actually excellent. I have a Domino as well as the Dewalt tracksaw and I plug both into the take-off power socket on my cheap shop vac and they both work great despite being on a different 'system'.
Can someone plz tell me if this track saw is good with cutting melamine with now blow out on either side top and bottom when making a cut (of course with a 60-80 tooth blade)
love your show been a fan for 2 years Dewalt does have other attachments for routers I have been in the home improvement business for 15 years and "I have tools to fix tools" 90% of my tools are Dewalt I have my Dewalt track saw for about 5 years and never had a problem Festool stuff is great but the cost of it is too high you can buy 2 dewalt track saws with attachments for 1 Festool the quality of the cut has to do with the quality of the blade thank you please keep up the great work
I've never been a fan of Black and Decker tools and as everyone knows well maybe not everyone but Dewalt is a Black and Decker tool and I always had problems with them I bought every tool that I needed little over thirty five years ago then everyone said to me oh you really need them Dewalt tools and being young I listened and bought 7 Dewalt tools used them for a couple house builds and I was very disappointed so I went back to my cheap cheap cheap tools I don't even remember the names of them but there still a couple of them still in my shop that still work but all of those Dewalt tools I bought are under a bench maybe if one of my nephews want they can take them sorry for the long message maybe I just had bad luck with the tools
Hey, just LOL'd at your tee-shirt. I was playing WoW prior to coming here. You have given a lot of food for thought comparing the DeWalt and the overpriced Festool. As a machinist by trade, I can readily see the advantages of a systemic approach, if it actually results in increased productivity or in consistency of work. I have also first hand experience with German machine tool quality, and am not at all impressed. I use woodworking tools for making furniture for myself, so that, too, is a factor.
My festool equipment is very noisy and always seems to be struggling just a bit! As I mentioned in a comment above, .. my track saw is going out in the trash and will be replaced with perhaps Makita this time around.
Just in case anyone stumbles upon this like I did when shopping for a track saw and was wondering what else DeWalt has made for their track system they now have a router adapter for it. I believe the model number is DWS5031 and works with a few other manufactures routers but guaranteed to work with almost all DeWalt routers.
Great review and video again. I get your point about the Festool being a system or family of tools but I think DeWalt is jumping on board for this train of thought as they have the router system for the track and according to a DeWalt rep a jigsaw base system is coming in the near future as well. However, someone pointed out DeWalts lack of good customer service as I have experienced myself so this is a valid point. Myself, I have waited for several years for Bosch to bring their track saw to the US as most all of my tools are Bosch so moving into a Festool system would be a tremendous cost. The solution? On a trip to England I picked up a Bosch GKT 55GCE track saw and had it shipped home to the US. The Bosch works with my Bosch routers and jigsaws. Only issue is getting parts from UK but thanks to the internet is rather easy. All in all another great video.
Hi I am just wondering about cutting anti splinter strip on my DeWalt track saw. My trouble is I can't cut the start of it as the saw base will be off the track to do that , is that normal or am I doing something wrong? Some help please
Festool was developed to set up a qulity woodworking shop at the job seight. So if your doing a portable woodworking shop this is the way to go. But if your just cutting down sheet goods say to roof a house the dewalt works just fine So construction and finnish work vers finiture qulity work like a built in breakfast table bench. Or book cases that are built in.
Probably the best overall tracksaw is Mafell MT 55, but also the most expensive. It can be used also on Festool rails. Interesting Bosch GKT 55 GCE, that is a simplified version of Mafell MT 55 (it should be built by Mafell for Bosch).
You can but you don't have to. One of the great joys of these systems is the fact that you can literally throw it down on a sheet of plywood and it stays put. As long as you don't bump it too hard, you shouldn't need a clamp.
That pretty much sells me on them. Even though the Dewalt is probably a fine saw and i like all my dewalt tools, im going to go with the Festool. Having worked in a cabinet shop with lits of European machines, i think they have the US beat in the cabinet making department. Will be my first festool, looking forward to it arriving. Great videos, im a new subscriber.
The real question is ..... can a track saw compete with cut quality of a cabinet table saw ? The one overwhelming advantage to a track saw appears to be safety. However, with Stop Saw in the picture it seems to me it all comes down to cut quality. I am having a problem deciding whether to start a shop on a track saw or a table saw. Any thoughts RUclips ???
For sheet good's I'd use a track saw. The only reason I say this is because it's hell to cross cut OR rip plywood by yourself. I will say a table saw does more and you can make multiple "repeatable" cuts because of the fence. I have a table saw and use it for everything minus sheet good's ;)
@@swamperjmb : I'm here trying to decide on a track saw or just bite the bullet and get a sliding table saw. I agree with probably everybody in that breaking down sheet goods sucks on a table saw if you're by yourself. Heck, it sucks no matter what tbh. Anyway, I'll probably end up getting a track saw and a sliding table saw in the end cause there's no legitimate way to haul a table saw around. This may be the deciding factor in me getting both; one for the shop and one for portable work.
Any real shop centers around a 10" cabinet saw , indeed and out tables . A rolling panel cart, and a miter saw bench , 8' out each side minimum. The track saw should be utilized mainly for cross cuts , breaking down panels after initial ripping is completed.
dewalt is a real beast, it is way way way faster and way stronger, in the end the cuts are perfect ..... we are talking for circular saw and not for table saw ,well it is not a big deal if the cuts are not accurate to 0 and they are off by 0,0001 or 0,0002 or 0,0003 or 0,004 from both saws(fact), the point is the speed and the power, i would like to see what if compare those 2 saws to the production line and lets see how many cuts you can do in a minute with the dewalt and how many with the feestool and further down which will have longer life........plus i would like to see these tested using the same blade .....hhhmmmmm plus the logic and scientist says as more speed as more clear cuts lol well well well i really doubt this test as it is clear to see how faster dewalt is . when it comes to power tools dewalt is worth every single dollar you spend to buy them ...number 1 by way far
Outstanding review. For the US market it is nice to see DeWalt make an entry into this market and for the occasional usage / homeowner / DIY market I would say this a great entry level tool. For a professional I would say cry once / buy once and go for the professional Festool. Does the home mechanic need a set of snap on tools when craftsmen works just as well. Probably not. But stress and wear show up faster on a full time mechanics tools where they don't with most homeowners. For those whom don't know DeWalt is the quasi prosumer version of Black and Decker tools, a great market space to fill between serious amateur and professional but their tools are meant to be disposable and have a pricey repair point. So much so that unless you have another tool to scavenge parts from they are usually borderline cost effective to repair. Just look at how much they charge for a bunch of Ni-Cad cells for their cordless tool line, when the cells go bad you are tens of dollars away from just purchasing a new tool instead of replacing the packs. (How are $15 worth of Ni-Cad cells and plastic turns into $75 is just pure greed) Not that I am elitist by any means, you should buy whatever tool makes sense for you at the time. But if you depend on your tools to make a living, the common logic is that you have to look at that investment in terms of long term maintenance, support and repair. Often when it comes to tools what is cheapest in the long run often cost more in the short.
Too Wood Whisper :I WANT to To KNOW Between Dwalt Plunge Circular Saw Or Makita Plunge Circular Saw Wish WANT Is Better And You Got Good Program I Like it
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I am 70 years old ............and this is hands down the best review I have seen....BRAVO!!!
I finally took the plunge(pun intended), and bought a track saw. I went with the DeWalt, I also bought the router attachment, track clamps and a Freud Industrial blade for it, but I'm still waiting to take delivery of those so I'm kind of stuck just staring at it while I wait for the new blade to arrive (as I do not want to cut into the rails until I get the new blade). I did consider the Festool but I just couldn't bring myself to spend another $400 for a tool that arguably does the same job.
Love your channel.
Jim
I have become a big fan of track saws and I now have this DeWalt and really like it. The DeWalt does have the router guide and that was an important consideration when buying the saw. I wish these had been around when I first started woodworking, I could have saved a lot of money on the progression of saws that went through my shop, the radial arm, the inexpensive table saw etc. I have both the long and short rails. I just trimmed the bottom of some solid oak doors that were 1-1/3" thick and there was plenty of power to do that and the cut quality almost rivals the big table saw, but you could never pass the end of an 80" long 125 lb. door through the table saw. Was also able to put the 3 degree bevel on the latch side easily and with only minor clean up.
The DeWalt simply gets me the quality I wanted at the price point that made a lot more sense to me than the Festool.
Dewalt won’t fall off the track when doing bevel cuts like the festool will. Also the dewalt blade guard is flat and allows you to trim the bottom of door whilst they are hung, clamping the track to the door. Festool does have the slightly cleaner cut (very marginal) and has a scribe cut feature for MFC board. You can of course scribe cut with the dewalt but you have to manually set the depth to scribe and then set it back to the previous depth after your scribe cut. The dewalt dual splinter guard tracks are a gimmick in my opinion. And if you want to use rail dogs for a cross cut setup ups need to remove one of the splinter guards, so the rail contacts the bench dogs. All things considered though I went for the dewalt. No regrets.
I haven't read all the comments here but of the ones I have read no-one has mentioned that the track for the DeWalt is usable on both sides. Marc barely mentioned this but it is a big selling point to me. My first use of my Festool was to make a 9 foot cut opening in a tall hallway panel. One side of the opening was easy pushing the saw up the cut line but the other side I had to stand high on a ladder and cut in the downward direction. Much more difficult especially with vacuum hose and power cord. The DeWalt reversible track would have made this much easier and I could see its benefits in many situations.
very very informative. I have a ts75 as I install entry doors 3 in thick. I just got the Dewalt and I like it better for smaller especially because depth scale is in inches. The attachments are also a fraction of the cost of Festool.
I have just settled on a festool TS55 and the thing that swayed me is an after market guide rail square called a GRS-16 that makes square cuts extremely easy. It will fit the default standard rail design of festool, makita and triton track saws but not bosch or dewalt. This fits with your "big picture" view. New products are being made for track saws but mostly for what is seen as the standard track. Moving away from that "standard" track a little bit like makita with its "anti-failover lip" does not stop other things working with it but a completely different design like bosch and dewalt does prevent the use of after market items.I know hind site is wonderful.All the best.
Seems like the blade would have a lot to do with the cut quality. I would like to see these tested using the same blade.
^My thought as well.
100% true
Agreed
Terry Pullen that is exactly what I was thinking.. 100%
I don’t know about this particular track saw, but most dewalt blades can be used once and then tossed. They work, but very meh. As for the tool itself, lighter is better. I am in the market for one just to play with, but occasionally use LOL. The Festool just feels bulky (there is also a video by Ave about inferior components) so it isn’t really for me. Makita (corded) is the lightest one so I reckon that’s a good one to stick with.
Festool is an excellent brand but their prices are just too prohibitive for most of us. I think the minor differences between the Festool and the Dewalt illustrate the fact that the "You get what you pay for" isn't always necessarily true. Thanks for the video.
Festool is like Snap-On. They both make a high quality product and charge several times the price of a comparable, competitive brand. There are tradesmen that will only buy Festool and try to sell you on them being “ the best in the business!” I’m not suggesting that they’re not. But when you have to pay 3 and 4 times the price, are you really getting your ROI? For 95% of the jobs you would need a track saw for, the Dewalt or Makita would do the job every bit as well as the Festool. I just don’t see throwing hundreds if not thousands of additional $$$ just for the name!
@@aeromedical6750 Yeah, the only weak part in your point is that Makita and Dewalt track saws are only like ~30% cheaper, and you idd get what you pay for.
@Gary Hochstetler well, I have used festool and makita myself before chosing festool for my hobby needs, so that sums up my experience, not here to argue )
@Gary Hochstetler that was 6 month ago when I was still choosing, I have used only festool back then and couldn't find makita to get my hands on. A lot have changed since then 🐱
This video is spot on regarding choices. I would personally go with DeWalt because I think they are more rugged (well... as much as value engineer will allow) and I would only use the tracks to cut straight thingys a such as the edge of a deck. But if you are into fine woodworking, especially a system, as well as less concerned about a motor that can handle more abuse, then the 50% up-charge compared to the DeWalt is irrelevant. A tool is made to do a job, if the returns justifies the investment, the cost becomes a non-issue. DeWalt for me, but I ain’t cutting premium curtly maple veneered panels.
Found to avoid break out on the upper surface just drop the blade 5mm or so and run the saw backwards so blade cuts into surface then proceed full depth forward. Very handy when doing woodgrain panel doors. (Good to have a block at end of cut)
Yep, that's a good old trick. On Big static table saws (industrial) you have a scoring knife that does the job (very bad for cutting yourself though, because it runs all the time. You have to lower it when you don't need it).
Quick question Marc: aside from blade and splinter guards... Don't the festool and dewalt have different blades (perhaps quality differs) installed on them? Just wondering if that could account for some difference as well.
Very good comparison. An excellent exposé of the salient features of both machines. You did a commendable job. Full thumbs up mate. Take good care, and thanks for sharing (so humbly, yet objectively) your knowledge.
I just purchased the Makita. Seems to do the job extremely well while saving significantly over the top brands.
Just bought the DeWalt DCS520 60v, cordless track saw version and ordered the new DashBoard MFT Portable Workshop System with 92” table, extruded tracks and accessories (also compatible with Festool, Makita and, I think, Triton tracksaws). Together, the two systems should make for a nice workshop or on-site cutting station that outshines the Festool MFT.
After contacting many tool retailers many say that both Makita and Dewalt is coming on strong to overtake Festool Plunge Saw as per monthly sales. Have you looked at the Makita and do you have any comments plus or minus on the Makita?
Are u using the same blade in both? That would make a cut difference.
Outstanding review. I’m at a cross-roads between investing in a track saw that seems one dimensional, yet necessary if you use them a lot….or, a very good saw guide, which is cheaper, and goes with my existing saw. Truetrac has a well built guide out that has gotten exceptional reviews, that I’m seriously considering, for just ripping plywood. It’s more expensive than the other guides on the market, but still half the cost of a good trac saw. I’ve not hear anyone give me a solid argument against the saw guide. At least for my limited use. This was very informative….well done.
You can also use the Dewalt track with their circular saw. They had have a router guide that attaches
Hey there Adnaan, as well as any other fellow fans in the wood whisperer community.
Do you mean it is possible to use a Dewalt Circular saw with a dewalt track? For example, I have the Dewalt Flexvolt Cordless circular saws models DCS577 and DCS575. The DCS577 Worm-Style Drive shoe is much longer & narrower than the 575's (which is identical to the DCS570) 20V XR Cordless. If either of these will work with the Dewalt trck that'd be great news for me and the first I've heard of it. How would this work, ie which Dewalt Track Model & what accessories would be needed? Any accurate info or advice would be most appreciated. Thanks again for the video and info btw
Thank you so much for the effort you make to give us such interesting videos.
Although I got this DeWalt track saw system over a year ago I've just recently started to use it on projects and I'm having misgivings about the whole thing - especially considering the top notch price is perhaps not reflected in a top notch tool.
On sheet (plywood etc.) it is very handy and fast but on higher quality woods you'd be well advised to think a bit before you use this saw.
1. The saw blade is only near true when it is locked into the 90/0 position. The tilting design for the blade cannot ever be fully accurate as the tool body (and blade) does not hinge around a shaft. The rotation is guided along a quadrant curved rail at the front and separately at the back. It is possible and likely there will be a millimeter of difference from the front of the saw to the back when the body is rotated. You can understand this if you inspect the tool and method of rotation. Give it all a wiggle and find yourself disappointed at what you observe.
2. I've not yet come across any mention but everyone should importantly be aware that when you want to check how true the saw blade is set then you cannot use the saw base plate for a reference. The saw can only work if it is located on a track -- the track is actually the base plate reference for the cut. You have to make any accuracy calibration recognising the track governs all.
I found (the hard way) my brand new tracks were actually slightly cupped (tilting the saw out of true) - this can be overcome by ensuring you press down straight and vertical on to the saw thus making certain the track is flat under the saw. Two handle operation works well for this but I think you have work out each long cut to allow you to walk alongside and no long arm reaching.
3. Obviously bends, dings and worn rubbers on the tracks have to be avoided.
4. My saw has vibrated from new. It growls and shakes when starting and I have heard this happening on other videos too - therefore, I think this is just part of the speed control and start up. It has no effect on cutting.
However, my saw also shudders and grumbles frequently when it should really be just a nice smooth whining cutting machine. I have come across other reviewers and video comments highlighting this exact same thing.
I have been in contact with DW service here in the U.K. and of course they say send it back for inspection - but I'm fed up with this hassle.
Yesterday, I noticed a lot of sparking from the motor brushes and this being a new tool I then just let the motor run continuously for about 10 minutes to bed the motor brushes. This very much reduced the sparking and also reduced the in work vibrations. I'm wondering if the problem is poor build practice or quality control. Anyway, I still have a problem to fix with mine and I'm not the only one.
Overall, it is a handy tool and could be a 'must have' for any worker. Right now, perhaps this DeWalt DW520 example does not warrant the endless glowing appraisals. Perhaps it does have some negatives.
any shop vac work fine ,i have every brand of tool all adapt to dust collection just fine
I've had nothing but issues from one Grizzly Industrial products. My wife and I drove over 5 hours, and spent over $1200 at the Grizzly showroom in Missouri. Honestly the showroom is amazing. The product I got...not so much. I've had over 10 separate issues including defective, and back ordered parts sent to me. Grizzly did offer me $100 to keep the pos 😂😂😂. I like high quality tools, and won't hesitate to spend the money on them. SCM, felder, festool, saw stop etc. I like decent hand tools such as snap on, Milwaukee, dewalt, and I even think husky is decent due to being able to swap tools easily when they break one the job. We even have some harbor freight tools that I think are very very good. My experience with grizzly has been unsatisfactory at best. Not to mention they will not post my review on their actual website. Hopefully my review will help someone looking for equipment.
Questions... Would the blades interchange between the Festool and the Dewalt? Would the quality of the cut equalize if the blades were the same between the 2 saws?
This saw is $599. Makita also makes one for $399. The Concord carpenter did a review on all three head to head and both did just as well as the Festool. Only thing Festool had on them was dust collection. Dust collection isn't worth a $500-$700 price difference.
thx you save me lot of money.
The Makita, although it's a fine unit, does have ONE downside compared to and DeWalt and newer Festool ones: The dust extraction nozzle bulges out from the side plate, so you can't run it right up against a wall or the inside wall of a cabinet. I noticed Mark's Festool has this issue as well, the new ones don't.
PikkaBird that’s a really good observation I was considering one.
@@PikkaBird that is one reason that I went with the DeWalt. The use of both sides of the track too. I do wish the DeWalt had the tab that keeps the saw from tilting when cutting bevels, like the Makita.
Call me crazy but it would be nice to know how they compare price wise. Not a word on cost and the cost is as important a factor as anything else.
+Amerijam Acres Frankly I like that he didn't... this video is well over a year old so whatever the price was then is pretty irrelevant. A 20 second amazon (or your favorite retailer) search will give you an actual answer (rather than anchor people on a price-point 17 months ago, you know?
I’ve found that splinter guards don’t do as much as you might think. You still can get tear out. The sharper the blade, the less tear out. The wobble in the blade, which is a quality of both the blade and the arbor, also determines tear out.
So 5 years later what is your take. My general feeling about tools with lots of moving parts is that they are only as good as the support network. Dewalt is pretty darn good.
for value.... festool is not even in the ball park
Do you have an update on how the Dewalt has performed for you since this video was made?
just listening to the motors of both on your video, the Festool sounds stronger, I've always been a DeWalt tool fan so I would most certainly go for it if I had to purchase one or the other
Walking the thin line of wanting to praise a product, but remembering that you get money from the competitor... still good info.
Hey! Great video, I am considering buying the DeWalt saw at the moment so this is very informational for me!
I was wondering if DeWalt track is compatible with clamps from Festool/Makita? I mean the ones that slide in the groove on the underside of the track. Where I live Makita clamps are only half the price of DeWalt clamps, so I am investigating how these go together.
Your review on this product is outstanding. Thank you.
Great comparison. I was surprised that you said that Dewalt copied Festool at the end. I remember using a Dewalt Tracksaw in Germany in 1999 and it's been about time that they are coming to North America. I'm not sure when Festool started making them, but Dewalt has been in the market of making these for a long time.
DEWALT, AKA, BLACK & DECKER, HAVE BEEN MAKING POWER TOOLS SINCE THE 1940s !!
FESTOOL NOT SO LONG .
CHEERS
Excellent review. I have the similar point of view where I own all high end and cordless DeWALT. I know Festool is nice but DeWALT is very close.
Thanks,
I have the cordless Dewalt track saw and love it
It appeared you moved the Festool saw slower ??? Could that have made a difference in the quality of the cut...? Was the blade spread the sam on both ?
Used both. DeWalt is better overall.
Thanks for the info. Because of my budget I got the Dewalt, because it was the best in class I could afford.
You mentioned the cut edge. Did you use the same blade on both saws? If not, there's probably the difference. The Festool is about $660 on line and the DeWalt comes with a longer track for about $150 less or can be had with two tracks one 59in & one 109in for about $70 less. And you can use the DeWalt on either side of the track. Sounds like a no brainer to me. Buy a kregg saw guide or make your own.
Oh, I almost forgot, you can get the DeWalt in a cordless model also.
Heey Marc, when i watched this review, the only thing you did was saw sheet goods. Is that all what these plunge saws do. Or can you saw boards without the track, say 10" wide. Or do i still need a normal circlesaw for that. Reason is, i do alot of garden project with scaffolding boards. I was thinking of getting that Festool.
What's the price difference between the two, is the Festool hundreds more than the Dewalt?
If both are the same, and dont need the system, pick the cheaper one.
But if i go for the video alone and both were the same type, i would pick the dewalt. Looks like the security system for the blade is better, even so slightly and the plunge system looks like a better grip.
I wonder how the Makita compares, last time I checked you could buy 3 for the price of one Festool.
You will need to buy 3 of the makita and hope you get one straight flat track out of the 3. The saw quality itself is quite excellent but the tracks have poor quality control. However I do believe the makita will fit the festool track so you could buy just the saw and then pay a little more for the festool quality track.
Josh Sternadel ive used them both, frankly have not noticed a difference in their performance, at least not a $1000 difference. Festool does offer a 3meter single piece track as an option. Buy a Forrest saw blade, it makes all the difference.
@@carls6359 Thanks for the info. I tried to get the Makita but got 2 with bad tracks. Finally gave up and got the DeWalt and the store gave me it for the same price as the Makita due to the issues I had. I may have had just a run of bad luck but I'm quite happy with the DeWalt. I would agree that for a finish cut on either a Forrest blade is a must.
FYI the anti reverse lock is not an extra safety for kickback , It's meant so that if you're working on a sloped roof, your saw doesn't fall off when you let go.
Great vid., but what is the sound track of the video?
Im one of those who bought the original 28 v Track saw from Dewalt which got its battery production halted in 2007. Dewalt bsically orphaned all the dewalt owners using the 28 v battery system. During that time those 28 v tools were not too cheap so many contractors bought them as in investiment into their company. If Dewalt had any consceience they would offer a free trade in for their newest tools matching the functions of the 28 V tools becoming not functional. Luckily for me I bought also a 110v Dewalt track saw shortly I bought the cordless Tracksaw.
I will stick with my Rockwell/Porter Cable 314 4.5'' circ saw. Works beautifully and reliably gives perfect cuts. No need to get the newest gadget. I made my own guides/tracks for it, so it does the same job in the same way. With a Forest 4.5'' blade in it, it cuts like a laser and veneered plys are splinter free, but Oak ply will have some slight splinters due to the nature of oak.
Good review though. Thanks
Question to owners of the tool:
When you cut a piece of wood, don't you find that the splinter guard gets cut out of line at the start and end of the guide rail?
Also, doesn't the splinter guard get cut and made out of line at the ends which are not compressed by the material being cut?
If this is true, it means if you join two together or need to use the full length of one accurately, you can't be sure that you are properly lining it up with the designated cut line and don't have full control/tear out protection at each end of the guide rail.
This would mean that joining two rails together isn't going to give you zero clearance tear out protection along the length and you can't be sure that your cut is going to match the line you are trying to follow.
On his initial cut he used a sheet of ply longer then the track. Thus cutting the rubber splinter guard end to end. Unfortunately he did not explain it well. I actually watched that portion of the video twice to make sure that’s what actually took place.
@@garyloepp7199 Thank you very much
I don't do woodworking often. I'll follow instructions in youtube woodworking if there is good practices. Do I have to buy a cordless or cord track saw? I'm planning to buy a circular saw as well. But I think two products are similar. Do I need to select one of them? Owning two power tools, the circular saw and the track saw, are overkill?
I'm torn three ways...
After seeing this review the first time I was convinced I wanted the DeWalt..
I took a class at WoodCraft and used the Festool...
Has anyone done a review similar to this but for the Makita?
The DeWalt is decent quality, made in Czech republic (a very modern country)- it's the last tool that B&D now makes in Europe (reminds me of the old ELU stuff). The tracks for the DeWalt are hit and miss though. The Makita is made in the UK, and side by side felt cheaper to the DeWalt (stickers not straight), the rubber knob for the score setting falls off, and there as a little more side to side play when you torsion it. The DeWalt has a rugged no-frills feel, just the track is cheap - ditto for the Makita track too. I originally wanted to buy the Makita, but examining them side by side I went with the DeWalt. The cord on the Makita is really short for some reason (like 6 feet!) whereas on the DeWalt is useable. The Festo with matching fences seems over priced for all it's plastic parts - and their marketing is hyped up too much - unless you drink from the kool-aid. None of these saws are as good as a cabinet saw cut wise and speed, but they work great on-site. Get one before they start making them in china!
I went to a tool show it was first time I used a track saw I tried bosch,Makita, Festool and dewalt and i loved the dewalt plunge it felt more natural
I'm sure Festool is a fine product,BUT a track saw is $1000, a vacuum is $1000, I wouldn't doubt their smallest table is $1000.No thank's.
in italy for 2000 usd you can buy combinated maschine,5 operations.good one
Just bought my first track saw. Went with the Makita. like the fact that I can use it with Festool tracks and the MFT system. Not that I'll ever own the MFT but I'm thinking about making one of my own after watching many videos here on RUclips.
Can you please review the mafell
Hej, I'm really enjoying your channel, learning a lot here. Just one thing I'm wondering - as you are such a huge fan of clamps ;-) - wouldn't it be necessary to clamp the rails in place? How come they're not moving on the wood and messing up the straight line?
+Fabian Lindner The tracks have rubber strips on the bottom that causes friction and holds them in place. Clamping is always a good way to insure that it won't move but the rubber alone does surprisingly well.
Marc, your humour is hilarious, I still have to watch the rest of the video. But you made me smile two times in the first 1 minute and 39 seconds :).
Really enjoy my DeWalt track saw!!!!!
Great video! I have a really quick question: Are you left-handed? I ask because I am. In case you are; how does that affect the way you use these saws?
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG !!
BLADE ON RIGHT SIDE OF SAW, IS A LEFT HANDED SAW , BLADE AT CENTERLINE OF YOUR BODY !!
YOU WOULD CUT LEFT HANDED , MOVING ALONG THE WASTE SIDE SUPPORTED BY RIGHT HAND , PERFECT !
CHEERS
The Festool one is cordless and you are comparing it to an obviously corded DeWalt? Why? Why didn't you get the flex volt version?
Review your cuts seems on all the comparisons cuts you went faster with the Dewalt
I appreciate the comparison. I was almost sold on the Dewalt. However one thing ultimately swayed me. The price on the Dewalt is tempting. But the Festool "system" has a huge draw. I do want the domino. I do want the MFT table. I really like the dust collection on Festool. So the overall system is what makes it worth the extra money.
The Dewalt TS dust collection is actually excellent. I have a Domino as well as the Dewalt tracksaw and I plug both into the take-off power socket on my cheap shop vac and they both work great despite being on a different 'system'.
Can someone plz tell me if this track saw is good with cutting melamine with now blow out on either side top and bottom when making a cut (of course with a 60-80 tooth blade)
Very good informative video well thought out. Many thanks
hello sir where i can buy that tool set
Thanks for the video. It helped me make my choice.
Best design of the track saw the way it plunges and by far the most powerful
love your show been a fan for 2 years Dewalt does have other attachments for routers I have been in the home improvement business for 15 years and "I have tools to fix tools" 90% of my tools are Dewalt I have my Dewalt track saw for about 5 years and never had a problem Festool stuff is great but the cost of it is too high you can buy 2 dewalt track saws with attachments for 1 Festool the quality of the cut has to do with the quality of the blade thank you please keep up the great work
I've never been a fan of Black and Decker tools and as everyone knows well maybe not everyone but Dewalt is a Black and Decker tool and I always had problems with them I bought every tool that I needed little over thirty five years ago then everyone said to me oh you really need them Dewalt tools and being young I listened and bought 7 Dewalt tools used them for a couple house builds and I was very disappointed so I went back to my cheap cheap cheap tools I don't even remember the names of them but there still a couple of them still in my shop that still work but all of those Dewalt tools I bought are under a bench maybe if one of my nephews want they can take them sorry for the long message maybe I just had bad luck with the tools
Hey, just LOL'd at your tee-shirt. I was playing WoW prior to coming here. You have given a lot of food for thought comparing the DeWalt and the overpriced Festool. As a machinist by trade, I can readily see the advantages of a systemic approach, if it actually results in increased productivity or in consistency of work. I have also first hand experience with German machine tool quality, and am not at all impressed. I use woodworking tools for making furniture for myself, so that, too, is a factor.
You can hear the motor on the festool straining to cut that 45
My festool equipment is very noisy and always seems to be struggling just a bit! As I mentioned in a comment above, .. my track saw is going out in the trash and will be replaced with perhaps Makita this time around.
Great review Marc,
Wow, hair & side burns too, wow.
Just in case anyone stumbles upon this like I did when shopping for a track saw and was wondering what else DeWalt has made for their track system they now have a router adapter for it. I believe the model number is DWS5031 and works with a few other manufactures routers but guaranteed to work with almost all DeWalt routers.
Do you have to clamp the track down?
Great review and video again. I get your point about the Festool being a system or family of tools but I think DeWalt is jumping on board for this train of thought as they have the router system for the track and according to a DeWalt rep a jigsaw base system is coming in the near future as well. However, someone pointed out DeWalts lack of good customer service as I have experienced myself so this is a valid point. Myself, I have waited for several years for Bosch to bring their track saw to the US as most all of my tools are Bosch so moving into a Festool system would be a tremendous cost. The solution? On a trip to England I picked up a Bosch GKT 55GCE track saw and had it shipped home to the US. The Bosch works with my Bosch routers and jigsaws. Only issue is getting parts from UK but thanks to the internet is rather easy. All in all another great video.
UGAFan s
Hi I am just wondering about cutting anti splinter strip on my DeWalt track saw. My trouble is I can't cut the start of it as the saw base will be off the track to do that , is that normal or am I doing something wrong? Some help please
That's normal, it doesn't matter. Join the tracks the other way and cut it off if it bothers you.
Festool was developed to set up a qulity woodworking shop at the job seight.
So if your doing a portable woodworking shop this is the way to go. But if your just cutting down sheet goods say to roof a house the dewalt works just fine
So construction and finnish work vers finiture qulity work like a built in breakfast table bench. Or book cases that are built in.
It basically amounts to how much money you have from the start doesn’t it? I think festool comes out top, but look at the cost overall.
doesn't festoon allow you to swap the measurement indicator ?
They do now, but I don't think they did at the time of recording.
hi. what type of wax do you use to wax the base of the saw and the rail?
Carnuba
Probably the best overall tracksaw is Mafell MT 55, but also the most expensive. It can be used also on Festool rails.
Interesting Bosch GKT 55 GCE, that is a simplified version of Mafell MT 55 (it should be built by Mafell for Bosch).
Here in the uk the Mafell is cheaper. I brought the makita though as I couldn't justify either the Mafell or Festool.
I didn't see anything regarding the clamps on the tracks. Really important feature!
With this saw you don't need clamps
It’s the tracks that seem to slide according to other reviews
@@DanielSanchez-vk3qs Yep especially with 45 angle cut. If one is after accuracy do not even try 45 deg cut without clamps.
Do you not have to clamp the track down on either saw?
You can but you don't have to. One of the great joys of these systems is the fact that you can literally throw it down on a sheet of plywood and it stays put. As long as you don't bump it too hard, you shouldn't need a clamp.
That pretty much sells me on them. Even though the Dewalt is probably a fine saw and i like all my dewalt tools, im going to go with the Festool. Having worked in a cabinet shop with lits of European machines, i think they have the US beat in the cabinet making department. Will be my first festool, looking forward to it arriving. Great videos, im a new subscriber.
So....this was really a comparison vs a review :-) Plus the Festool is twice the $. Didn't mention that.
I would say it’s a comparison AND a review. They’re not mutually exclusive. 😊
The real question is ..... can a track saw compete with cut quality of a cabinet table saw ? The one overwhelming advantage to a track saw appears to be safety. However, with Stop Saw in the picture it seems to me it all comes down to cut quality. I am having a problem deciding whether to start a shop on a track saw or a table saw. Any thoughts RUclips ???
For sheet good's I'd use a track saw. The only reason I say this is because it's hell to cross cut OR rip plywood by yourself. I will say a table saw does more and you can make multiple "repeatable" cuts because of the fence. I have a table saw and use it for everything minus sheet good's ;)
@@swamperjmb : I'm here trying to decide on a track saw or just bite the bullet and get a sliding table saw. I agree with probably everybody in that breaking down sheet goods sucks on a table saw if you're by yourself. Heck, it sucks no matter what tbh. Anyway, I'll probably end up getting a track saw and a sliding table saw in the end cause there's no legitimate way to haul a table saw around. This may be the deciding factor in me getting both; one for the shop and one for portable work.
Any real shop centers around a 10" cabinet saw , indeed and out tables .
A rolling panel cart, and a miter saw bench , 8' out each side minimum.
The track saw should be utilized mainly for cross cuts , breaking down panels after initial ripping is completed.
Never heard anyone but you put the accent on Festool on the second syllable. May be accurate, but I've just never heard it before.
+Don White What can I say, I like to buck the trend. I guess I never gave it much thought.
Fest means durable or tight in German. Festool is pronounced FES TOOL. now ya know Liebchen
I own both the portable 28v Dewalt Tracksaw and the 110v version. The 28volt Tracksaw batteries are discontinued since like 2007 for your information.
You did not mention the quality of the blades
Do you find that the long track is too short for cutting plywood long wise?
I thought they only had 2 sizes
Nice to see you… 9 years ago😅
I could see how it could easily be turned into a table saw just by turning it up-side-down and making a table for it.
dewalt is a real beast, it is way way way faster and way stronger, in the end the cuts are perfect ..... we are talking for circular saw and not for table saw ,well it is not a big deal if the cuts are not accurate to 0 and they are off by 0,0001 or 0,0002 or 0,0003 or 0,004 from both saws(fact), the point is the speed and the power, i would like to see what if compare those 2 saws to the production line and lets see how many cuts you can do in a minute with the dewalt and how many with the feestool and further down which will have longer life........plus i would like to see these tested using the same blade .....hhhmmmmm plus the logic and scientist says as more speed as more clear cuts lol well well well i really doubt this test as it is clear to see how faster dewalt is . when it comes to power tools dewalt is worth every single dollar you spend to buy them ...number 1 by way far
Good review. Hilarious murloc shirt!
"Boring black and white manuals" ... Norm would have a heart attack!!!
+Dave Girr Just keep those safety glasses on.
What about price Festool is way expensive DeWalt may not be
I know it’s a bit of a knock off but the makita TS has been around for long time
Seems liked the $1,000.00 track saw Festool is the top dog of saws. Because other saws are being compared to Festool.
That saw is so sweet!
Outstanding review.
For the US market it is nice to see DeWalt make an entry into this market and for the occasional usage / homeowner / DIY market I would say this a great entry level tool. For a professional I would say cry once / buy once and go for the professional Festool. Does the home mechanic need a set of snap on tools when craftsmen works just as well. Probably not. But stress and wear show up faster on a full time mechanics tools where they don't with most homeowners.
For those whom don't know DeWalt is the quasi prosumer version of Black and Decker tools, a great market space to fill between serious amateur and professional but their tools are meant to be disposable and have a pricey repair point. So much so that unless you have another tool to scavenge parts from they are usually borderline cost effective to repair. Just look at how much they charge for a bunch of Ni-Cad cells for their cordless tool line, when the cells go bad you are tens of dollars away from just purchasing a new tool instead of replacing the packs. (How are $15 worth of Ni-Cad cells and plastic turns into $75 is just pure greed)
Not that I am elitist by any means, you should buy whatever tool makes sense for you at the time. But if you depend on your tools to make a living, the common logic is that you have to look at that investment in terms of long term maintenance, support and repair. Often when it comes to tools what is cheapest in the long run often cost more in the short.
Too Wood Whisper :I WANT to To KNOW Between Dwalt Plunge Circular Saw Or Makita Plunge Circular Saw Wish WANT Is Better And You Got Good Program I Like it
Not too bad review!