God bless you for this video I think its the only thing on the internet that covers it. Im actually using this location to switch to a mechincal gauge to get more accurate information.
Mine always seems tk be on the low low side wonder if changing it might help as well. I have a 5.3L though. Anyone have issues with the Volt Meter not displaying correctly ?
Dunno if you guys gives a shit but if you're bored like me atm you can watch all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. I've been streaming with my brother these days :)
I own a 92’ 4.9 300. Did you ever get the code for egr insufficient air flow? I forgot the code number. I can’t figure out what it could be causing this code check engine light is on. Any ideas?
seems like there a lot of things connected to the upper side of the under fender, so they all have to disconnected too?, and the under fender actually fits back in where it came out???
Hey Good Morning! Yeah this repair is easiest going through the fender wall. It looks like a lot of nuts and screws holing the fender well on but it’s really not that bad. But everything does have to come loose in order to pull the fender well out. Getting to this part under the hood was definitely a day dream lol just take your time use some penetrating fluid and all should be well. Thanks for watching and commenting 🙂
I think that just works to the gauge in the one in front goes to the computer right.? Also I'm 65 years old and this 96 straight-6 I got is the best truck I ever had I love working on it it always needs work but I know everything that goes wrong with it the minute it goes wrong.
@ Wes's sidestory wondering if it's possible you could show a video of your wiring for the ignition pigtail and how it's wired? I found that I need to rewire mine with a new pigtail because the one that's on there now if it gets wiggled around moved the engine will completely shut off. I haven't had any luck with finding a wiring diagram I have the Haynes manual but that does no good. My only other option is to go to a junkyard and see how one is wired up, much appreciated.
@@wesssidestory4157 No problem at all man I understand we all get busy doing are own thing from time to time. It would be much appreciated if you could do that for me. My other option was to go look at scrap yards to see if I could find how it was wired factory from a truck. As I haven't had much luck finding any info or wiring diagrams on Google I have the Haynes manual but it doesnt show or go into depth on that topic. How my wiring is wired looks like someone cobbled things together.
I have a 1993 Ford F-150 300 CID, cranks but doesn't start. Have replaced distributor, coil, and computer ( twice ). Truck will start & run for @ 30 minutes, then die.....Don't know what to do next. Replacing temp sensor / sending unit has been suggested. Suggestions ?
I have a 1996 F150 4.9 5 speed. I've almost replaced everything under the hood on this truck, plus the entire clutch system, the whole front suspension, tires, brakes, stereo & speakers, the whole front & rear light system. Just wondering where it ends lol. I've put so much into the truck I'll have to sell it for 9 to 10 grand. I love these old Fords tho, The body is 99% mint condition except for the clear coat on the passenger side. I want a 4x4 same year.
Thanks Brother. Much needed help. I cleaned the sending unit. Gauge went up with engine temp. But stays up after turning off switch. Yours do that to.?
What's your trucks reading on your heating sensor when it's fully warmed up and running my trucks reading at the A on the n o r m a l sign wondering if that's too high or normal looking to compare mine to guys thank you
in my experience the Sweep of NORMAL is 20-30 degrees but the temp up to and past it are much more. as in. 180-210 degreews according to scan tool(the one on the thermostat housing pipe is reading that, to the PCM) and the gauge is doing that. factory sender. no idea if wiring is bad or issued or not
i think i have this problem with my 1990 f150 4.9L, but i don't want to pull the under fender out but i guess i have too, i was dreaming that i could get to it from under the hood. ??
The only thing I could suggest is to try flipping the connector.. it will only go on one way. Otherwise I would say that the part is wrong. Take the old one to the part store and get one that matches.
Actually no. My temp gauge stayed really low. So it may have been working properly before I changed it. I also flushed my radiator and replace all hoses as well. So it may just be staying cooler. Either way my temp gauge reads low. But the cooler the engine the better its running
@@wesssidestory4157 Ive been searching around looking for the answer. This sensor reads about 300 ohms at room temp, some folks in a forum say iot should read 70 ohms at room temp. I think the lower the resistance the higher the gauge would read. I checked a motorcraft sensor and it was 300 at room temp too so I dont know whatn the answer is. My fear is if the truck starts to overheat it may not read very high on the gauge at all, not an ideal situtation
Yeah I agree that wouldn't be ideal. I didn't check mine to see the resistance. I would probably start to get alarmed if it goes alot higher then the normal reading your used to seeing. Wish I could help and provide a better answer
When you replace your temperature gauge. Your not supposed to Teflon on it. It goes in without anything. It goes on metal because it’s supposed to ground to block. No Teflon or any type of sealer.😇🙏🏽👍
I am a fairly big guy so trying to reach around and all that can be a pain. So if I got to do a little extra work to make life easier on me then I am not afraid of it. Thank you for your comment
Just found you. Thank you for making this video. Extremely helpful. Please continue.
Loved watching this pulling that inside plastic fender guard super smart move would not even think of that. Big help.
Just picked one up today. Have the same issue with my 96 300i6. Thank you for the video.
Just replaced this part on my 1990 F150. Temp gauge is working again. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the feedback. Glad I could help
love your truck man. thanks for the video!
Hello friend, your videos helped me a lot, greetings from Argentina.
Hey thank you for your comment! Hello there! Good luck with your truck!
Thanks for the video, gonna buy this part this week for my 89 f150
Glad I could help
Nice video didn't know it had that I have a 93 same motor and will try that thanks 👍
Thank you for your video I just found out I’m having the same problem
God bless you for this video I think its the only thing on the internet that covers it. Im actually using this location to switch to a mechincal gauge to get more accurate information.
Hey thanks I am glad the video helped. God bless you also
Thanks for the video, you just never mentioned how much of a pain in the butt it would be to re-attach the tube to the unit 😂😂
How did you get the dang tube back on the unit without ripping it up? I'm struggling! Just shear force?
@AlexanderGaos I ended up just spreading the connector then pinching it back on, I went and bought a new cable after
Tnks for the video it was a big help. New subscriber here
Mine always seems tk be on the low low side wonder if changing it might help as well. I have a 5.3L though.
Anyone have issues with the Volt Meter not displaying correctly ?
Just want I needed.
Good job 👏
Dunno if you guys gives a shit but if you're bored like me atm you can watch all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. I've been streaming with my brother these days :)
@Orlando Aiden Definitely, I've been using instaflixxer for since november myself =)
Good job cuz ur havin way to much fun
Yrp and your missing out
Yeah I know
I own a 92’ 4.9 300. Did you ever get the code for egr insufficient air flow? I forgot the code number. I can’t figure out what it could be causing this code check engine light is on. Any ideas?
So that's going to be that you egr valve is stopped up and needs cleaned or may need replaced.
seems like there a lot of things connected to the upper side of the under fender, so they all have to disconnected too?, and the under fender actually fits back in where it came out???
Hey Good Morning! Yeah this repair is easiest going through the fender wall. It looks like a lot of nuts and screws holing the fender well on but it’s really not that bad. But everything does have to come loose in order to pull the fender well out. Getting to this part under the hood was definitely a day dream lol just take your time use some penetrating fluid and all should be well. Thanks for watching and commenting 🙂
I think that just works to the gauge in the one in front goes to the computer right.? Also I'm 65 years old and this 96 straight-6 I got is the best truck I ever had I love working on it it always needs work but I know everything that goes wrong with it the minute it goes wrong.
Yeah your right sensor inthe block goes to the dash and other sensor is for the computer
@ Wes's sidestory wondering if it's possible you could show a video of your wiring for the ignition pigtail and how it's wired?
I found that I need to rewire mine with a new pigtail because the one that's on there now if it gets wiggled around moved the engine will completely shut off. I haven't had any luck with finding a wiring diagram I have the Haynes manual but that does no good. My only other option is to go to a junkyard and see how one is wired up, much appreciated.
Hey sorry for the Late response please let me know if you still need this i will be happy to attempt to video the wiring harness and connectors.
@@wesssidestory4157 No problem at all man I understand we all get busy doing are own thing from time to time. It would be much appreciated if you could do that for me. My other option was to go look at scrap yards to see if I could find how it was wired factory from a truck. As I haven't had much luck finding any info or wiring diagrams on Google I have the Haynes manual but it doesnt show or go into depth on that topic. How my wiring is wired looks like someone cobbled things together.
I have a 1993 Ford F-150 300 CID, cranks but doesn't start. Have replaced distributor, coil, and computer ( twice ). Truck will start & run for @ 30 minutes, then die.....Don't know what to do next. Replacing temp sensor / sending unit has been suggested. Suggestions ?
Sounds like a fuel issue
@@00700556 Thanks !!
I have a 1996 F150 4.9 5 speed. I've almost replaced everything under the hood on this truck, plus the entire clutch system, the whole front suspension, tires, brakes, stereo & speakers, the whole front & rear light system. Just wondering where it ends lol. I've put so much into the truck I'll have to sell it for 9 to 10 grand. I love these old Fords tho, The body is 99% mint condition except for the clear coat on the passenger side. I want a 4x4 same year.
Hey Bruce can I see your truck
Would this cause high oil pressure as well...
I wouldn't think so.. too.much oil or a bad oil pressure sensor would . It's located on the driver's side of the block on the 300 engine
Question. How many blades are supposed to be on the metal engine clutch fan? Seven. If so some has changed it out on my nephew's truck
Hang on I will see what's on mine
7 is the correct number of blades
Thanks Brother. Much needed help. I cleaned the sending unit. Gauge went up with engine temp. But stays up after turning off switch. Yours do that to.?
@@benfowler5451 I am sorry turning off what switch?
@@wesssidestory4157 no prob Brother. All good.
What's your trucks reading on your heating sensor when it's fully warmed up and running my trucks reading at the A on the n o r m a l sign wondering if that's too high or normal looking to compare mine to guys thank you
Hey mine reads at the line before the N but I have redone all my radiator lines and flushed the radiator and heater coil
Sounds like yours is running hot may need to replace hoses thermostat and flush out everything as I did
in my experience the Sweep of NORMAL is 20-30 degrees but the temp up to and past it are much more. as in. 180-210 degreews according to scan tool(the one on the thermostat housing pipe is reading that, to the PCM) and the gauge is doing that. factory sender. no idea if wiring is bad or issued or not
Where you just adding input or asking a question?
i think i have this problem with my 1990 f150 4.9L, but i don't want to pull the under fender out but i guess i have too, i was dreaming that i could get to it from under the hood. ??
Dose the sending unit have one wire going to it or 2 ?
one
One
Im pretty sure I bought the right part because it screws in but the wire wont go over the end of it, what do you recommend?
The only thing I could suggest is to try flipping the connector.. it will only go on one way. Otherwise I would say that the part is wrong. Take the old one to the part store and get one that matches.
@@wesssidestory4157 ok thank you, I just hooked up another part and it fits, thanks. How far is the unit supposed to screw in?
@@andrewmorgan4527 I just go about half past snug when I put part like that in. You will have to make sure it doesn't leak.
@@wesssidestory4157 ok thanks
did your temp gauge ever go any higher?
Actually no. My temp gauge stayed really low. So it may have been working properly before I changed it. I also flushed my radiator and replace all hoses as well. So it may just be staying cooler. Either way my temp gauge reads low. But the cooler the engine the better its running
@@wesssidestory4157 Ive been searching around looking for the answer. This sensor reads about 300 ohms at room temp, some folks in a forum say iot should read 70 ohms at room temp. I think the lower the resistance the higher the gauge would read. I checked a motorcraft sensor and it was 300 at room temp too so I dont know whatn the answer is. My fear is if the truck starts to overheat it may not read very high on the gauge at all, not an ideal situtation
Yeah I agree that wouldn't be ideal. I didn't check mine to see the resistance. I would probably start to get alarmed if it goes alot higher then the normal reading your used to seeing. Wish I could help and provide a better answer
You have helped me so much and just don't know bro. thank you.
When you replace your temperature gauge. Your not supposed to Teflon on it. It goes in without anything. It goes on metal because it’s supposed to ground to block. No Teflon or any type of sealer.😇🙏🏽👍
It actually came with the sealer on it right out of the box. I didn't add anything to it.
I have the same problem I believe the mechanic Put a temp sensor instead of sending unit
Air intake tempature sensor was my issue
Where's that air intake located ??
@@olaveolave1860 the video should explain everything
Thats to much trouble i got one i i dont have to pull the fender to change that but i have a Ford XL
I am a fairly big guy so trying to reach around and all that can be a pain. So if I got to do a little extra work to make life easier on me then I am not afraid of it. Thank you for your comment