Hey bro! Awesome review, I'm finally considering buying one to use for construction. The Periodic feature would be very helpful, but I'm curious - in your experience how long will the battery last if left on for days on end? Also would there be a way to power it externally so it won't die?
I shot for about 12 hours and battery was half full. I guess it depends on your interval. But yeah you charge it with a micro USB port so I’m sure you can power it while shooting!
Am new to timelapse tell me one thing as of now how far i know intervalometer just send signal to click pic and ramping interval between shot how gonna effect exposer ramping effect?
Thanks for putting together the video! Very informative. Would you be willing to explain how you are using the LRT Pro Timer 3 in ramping mode and Av to capture day to night? I'm specifically trying to day to night a (stars with no moon light) with a Sony A7sIII in Av and not getting the results I'm hoping for. I'm wondering how the LRT Pro Time 3 could help.
What issues are you having? I set my Sony's to Aperture Mode with Auto ISO set at 100 to 3200 or higher if you need. Set the Auto ISO Minimum Shutter speed to the time you want the ISO to start ramping. If you're shooting a 20 second timelapse interval, then you probably want to set the Auto ISO Min SS to 15 seconds, maybe shorter. You'll want enough time so you can make exposure adjustments with the exposure comp dial. You'll want to set the upper limit of the Auto ISO so that your shutter speeds don't exceed the interval. As far as the ProTimer, you'll want to use it to ramp your sunset to night interval. So you may go from 5-8 second interval for the sun setting and then over about 20 minutes once Blue hour starts, then you can ramp the interval to the 20 seconds (or whatever you need) as discussed above. You want to interval to ramp before the shutter speeds start to get longer. If you're not careful - then you run the risk of the shutter speed being longer than the inteval. When that happens, the camera will start to miss exposures until the interval is longer than the shutter speed. But keep in mind, the ProTimer doesn't send info to the camera, It only presses the shutter release. The camera has to be set to control the exposure on it's own.
For day to night, I actually don't do anything special, the Pro Timer 3 only acts as a intervalometer. But I think the issue here is that AV doesn't really work well with astro in my opinion. Have you thought about shooting your day to night astro with M mode? That way you can control the settings, the Pro Timer 3 is only here to trigger the camera and do the interval ramping if needed, but that way you can control the settings and you are 100% sure to nail the night exposure. I feel like AV mode wouldn't work really well with night skies!
Your channel is superb,can you tell me if I can use this with a Fuji xt4, I can’t change any of my setting during the actual Timelapse and not sure the best way to do a day to night, any help would be much appreciated. Thanks from Scotland
Yes you can, you just need to connect the right cable! It doesn’t come with any so you need to purchase a simple trigger cable to connect to your camera.
@@EmericTimelapse Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this but does this bit of kit rule out having to manually change the shutter speed or iso for doing a day to night, i've noticed some photographers do this as the light changes but it can't be done with the Fuji XT4 while the timelapse is in progress, this would be a great help if it did. Thanks again
Super video!!! Thank you very much!!! However, I still have a question - when you do ramping and increasing interval how do you increase exposure time in camera? I am talking about day-to-night timelapse
@@EmericTimelapse so, you increase interval and then quickly try to change camera setting while camera in counting interval time between shots. Correct? Hope I explained it good to understand 😬🤣
With or without interval ramping, the way I do the exposure ramping is the same. If you watch the video I linked on my first comment you'll understand :) I don't really do anything with the interval ramping as the Pro Timer 3 is working for me, so I just take care of the exposure.
Thanx for the informative video, for ramping, does it start fro the first frame, or can I set it to start after xminutes/xframes? also when bracketing, would one signal triger the x number of brackets or will wait for next interval?
You can start the interval ramping when you want, but you can't select a specific frame. You just go in the pause menu and set it up while shooting! I don't understand your second question as I don't use bracketing in timelapse!
@@EmericTimelapse for 3 shots bracket, signal has to be longer as if pressing shutter till the sequence finishes, I guess astro mood would be ok, but did not try it yet.
Ça sers à rien que j’y passe des heures en français pour faire 200 vues malheureusement. Mais il y a les sous-titres en français automatique. Clique sur CC et dans les paramètres Sous-Titres Auto puis sélectionne Français !
The button looks hard to press. I see some camera movement every time you have to change a setting while shooting. Best to just wrap the cord around tripod leg or somehow not mount it to camera.
You usually don’t have to touch the Pro Timer when it’s shooting besides to turn it off or eventually an interval ramping. In that case it’s super easy to just do it between 2 frames, never had any issues with this!
Merci Emeric pour cette vidéo, une petite question, en timelapse auto mode AV pour un Holygrail, quelle mesure d exposition utilises tu ? Et si c’est en spot, ou place tu la mesure d’exposition ? Car une fois la nuit tombée, le mode auto surexpose trop tout ce qui est illuminè.
En général je garde le meter a -2/3 ou -1 stop, ça suffit et ça marche bien. Si ta scène est hyper sombre pendant la nuit, AV est peut-être pas une bonne idée donc, c'est mieux si la scène de nuit à quand même pas mal de lumière, donc les villes en général. je ferais pas de AV pour un jour-nuit astro par exemple !
Je ne fais plus les sous-titres car il y a une traduction automatique. Clique CC et dans les paramètres sélectionne traduction Auto et enfin Français. C’est pas 100% parfait mais ça marche très bien et m’évite d’avoir à passer des heures sur une vidéo. Merci !
It is a budget for sure. But since it is mostly the only intervalometer like this on the market, I think the price is fair. I don't know any other intervalometer that can ramp the interval like this, shoot without an AF signal or shoot extremely fast interval timelapses all together.
i just dont undertand the ramping and in Ap a timelaps greats a lot of flickr i think i am going for the unleash . dont understand the hype from this complex thing
Not sure I understand your logic here. The Pro Timer is just an intervalometer and will only trigger the camera, probably a lot easier to use than the Unleashed. Although you will end up with flicker on the raw sequence no matter what, even with the Unleashed. Don't expect to end up with a smooth timelapse straight from the camera, it's impossible. You have to use softwares like LRTimelapse in both M or Av mode with either Pro Timer or Unleashed lol
@@EmericTimelapse allright. yeah i know LRT awaysome program. I do normal timelapses with the inbuild timelaps options. There is an option in the camera . the name is exposure smoothing it is good i try day 2night in P mode but everything when its getting dark is overexposed.dispite base iso beginning with 100 iso . so i have to do it manualy but 3 hours starring at a camera is not my favorite hobby.
Awesome tutorial, Emeric. One think I like to do is let my ProTimer hang by the cable, so when I make ramping adjustments, I don't accidentally move or jiggle the camera.
That's kind of risky if the cable unplugs haha if your camera moves if you barely touch the Pro Timer 3, probably best to get a new ball head, it makes the difference !
@@EmericTimelapse I suppose if your cable doesn't snap in securely. I use a Benro 3-Way geared head - definitely solid. But still, cameras can wiggle especially when you have it on a tracker and there's a lot of gear between the camera and the tripod.
So what mode do you like or use the most?
Nearly 40 hours of online courses are available on my website emerictimelapse.com/courses
Yes, ramping is the killer feature of this little jewel
great video best bit of kit out there i shoot long exposures with it and then if i want to shoot timelapse just change pro timer so easy to use
Thank you for doing this video! I was on the fence about getting that for my timelapse!
Glad I could help!
Great video. Thanks for that
This was PERFECT TXS.
You're welcome!
Best Tool I❤it.
SUPER PRODUCT!.I see that it will ramp the interval but will it ramp the exposure? Is AV mode the only way? Excellent videos. Thanks.
I use QDSLR to do exposure control. QDSLR is not aware of the settings on LRTimelapse
Hey bro! Awesome review, I'm finally considering buying one to use for construction. The Periodic feature would be very helpful, but I'm curious - in your experience how long will the battery last if left on for days on end? Also would there be a way to power it externally so it won't die?
I shot for about 12 hours and battery was half full. I guess it depends on your interval. But yeah you charge it with a micro USB port so I’m sure you can power it while shooting!
Am new to timelapse tell me one thing as of now how far i know intervalometer just send signal to click pic and ramping interval between shot how gonna effect exposer ramping effect?
Great video, you went in depth with the explenation, I have a question, so when do you move in Denver?
Thanks man! I am moving to Denver mid-October :)
Thanks for putting together the video! Very informative. Would you be willing to explain how you are using the LRT Pro Timer 3 in ramping mode and Av to capture day to night? I'm specifically trying to day to night a (stars with no moon light) with a Sony A7sIII in Av and not getting the results I'm hoping for. I'm wondering how the LRT Pro Time 3 could help.
What issues are you having?
I set my Sony's to Aperture Mode with Auto ISO set at 100 to 3200 or higher if you need. Set the Auto ISO Minimum Shutter speed to the time you want the ISO to start ramping. If you're shooting a 20 second timelapse interval, then you probably want to set the Auto ISO Min SS to 15 seconds, maybe shorter. You'll want enough time so you can make exposure adjustments with the exposure comp dial. You'll want to set the upper limit of the Auto ISO so that your shutter speeds don't exceed the interval.
As far as the ProTimer, you'll want to use it to ramp your sunset to night interval. So you may go from 5-8 second interval for the sun setting and then over about 20 minutes once Blue hour starts, then you can ramp the interval to the 20 seconds (or whatever you need) as discussed above. You want to interval to ramp before the shutter speeds start to get longer. If you're not careful - then you run the risk of the shutter speed being longer than the inteval. When that happens, the camera will start to miss exposures until the interval is longer than the shutter speed.
But keep in mind, the ProTimer doesn't send info to the camera, It only presses the shutter release. The camera has to be set to control the exposure on it's own.
For day to night, I actually don't do anything special, the Pro Timer 3 only acts as a intervalometer. But I think the issue here is that AV doesn't really work well with astro in my opinion. Have you thought about shooting your day to night astro with M mode? That way you can control the settings, the Pro Timer 3 is only here to trigger the camera and do the interval ramping if needed, but that way you can control the settings and you are 100% sure to nail the night exposure. I feel like AV mode wouldn't work really well with night skies!
Your channel is superb,can you tell me if I can use this with a Fuji xt4, I can’t change any of my setting during the actual Timelapse and not sure the best way to do a day to night, any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks from Scotland
Yes you can, you just need to connect the right cable! It doesn’t come with any so you need to purchase a simple trigger cable to connect to your camera.
@@EmericTimelapse Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this but does this bit of kit rule out having to manually change the shutter speed or iso for doing a day to night, i've noticed some photographers do this as the light changes but it can't be done with the Fuji XT4 while the timelapse is in progress, this would be a great help if it did.
Thanks again
Super video!!! Thank you very much!!! However, I still have a question - when you do ramping and increasing interval how do you increase exposure time in camera? I am talking about day-to-night timelapse
I do if manually on the camera. Check this video here
ruclips.net/video/RI-73SQfXNE/видео.html
@@EmericTimelapse so, you increase interval and then quickly try to change camera setting while camera in counting interval time between shots. Correct? Hope I explained it good to understand 😬🤣
With or without interval ramping, the way I do the exposure ramping is the same. If you watch the video I linked on my first comment you'll understand :) I don't really do anything with the interval ramping as the Pro Timer 3 is working for me, so I just take care of the exposure.
Thanx for the informative video, for ramping, does it start fro the first frame, or can I set it to start after xminutes/xframes? also when bracketing, would one signal triger the x number of brackets or will wait for next interval?
You can start the interval ramping when you want, but you can't select a specific frame. You just go in the pause menu and set it up while shooting! I don't understand your second question as I don't use bracketing in timelapse!
@@EmericTimelapse for 3 shots bracket, signal has to be longer as if pressing shutter till the sequence finishes, I guess astro mood would be ok, but did not try it yet.
Emeric what is the battery life with the Version 3?? The version 2 I find it has to be charged all the time. The battery drains very quickly, cheers
I believe it’s 10/12 hours. You can probably find more info on LRTimelapse website.
Bon matos peut on avoir le mode d'emploi en Français ?
Bonnes photos !
Ça sers à rien que j’y passe des heures en français pour faire 200 vues malheureusement. Mais il y a les sous-titres en français automatique. Clique sur CC et dans les paramètres Sous-Titres Auto puis sélectionne Français !
The button looks hard to press. I see some camera movement every time you have to change a setting while shooting. Best to just wrap the cord around tripod leg or somehow not mount it to camera.
You usually don’t have to touch the Pro Timer when it’s shooting besides to turn it off or eventually an interval ramping. In that case it’s super easy to just do it between 2 frames, never had any issues with this!
Merci Emeric pour cette vidéo, une petite question, en timelapse auto mode AV pour un Holygrail, quelle mesure d exposition utilises tu ? Et si c’est en spot, ou place tu la mesure d’exposition ? Car une fois la nuit tombée, le mode auto surexpose trop tout ce qui est illuminè.
En général je garde le meter a -2/3 ou -1 stop, ça suffit et ça marche bien. Si ta scène est hyper sombre pendant la nuit, AV est peut-être pas une bonne idée donc, c'est mieux si la scène de nuit à quand même pas mal de lumière, donc les villes en général. je ferais pas de AV pour un jour-nuit astro par exemple !
@@EmericTimelapse mais tu la positionne où ta mesure spot ? Bâtiment ? Ciel ? Source de lumière type lampadaire ?
Je t'avoue en général ça reste au milieu de l'image, jamais vraiment sélectionné un élément de l'image précis.
You have just "sold" me de pro timer 3 :-) Ask a sales fee to Gunther from LRTimelapse ;-)
Quel dommage que tu ne le fasses pas en Français aussi car les sous titres sont également en Anglais !
Bonnes photos !
Je ne fais plus les sous-titres car il y a une traduction automatique. Clique CC et dans les paramètres sélectionne traduction Auto et enfin Français. C’est pas 100% parfait mais ça marche très bien et m’évite d’avoir à passer des heures sur une vidéo. Merci !
ok j'essaierais demain merci bonnes photos@@EmericTimelapse
Hello Emeric¡. Another drawback that this little toy has is its price, in my opinion it is very high.🤦♂🤦♂
It is a budget for sure. But since it is mostly the only intervalometer like this on the market, I think the price is fair. I don't know any other intervalometer that can ramp the interval like this, shoot without an AF signal or shoot extremely fast interval timelapses all together.
i just dont undertand the ramping and in Ap a timelaps greats a lot of flickr i think i am going for the unleash . dont understand the hype from this complex thing
Not sure I understand your logic here. The Pro Timer is just an intervalometer and will only trigger the camera, probably a lot easier to use than the Unleashed. Although you will end up with flicker on the raw sequence no matter what, even with the Unleashed. Don't expect to end up with a smooth timelapse straight from the camera, it's impossible. You have to use softwares like LRTimelapse in both M or Av mode with either Pro Timer or Unleashed lol
@@EmericTimelapse allright. yeah i know LRT awaysome program. I do normal timelapses with the inbuild timelaps options. There is an option in the camera . the name is exposure smoothing it is good i try day 2night in P mode but everything when its getting dark is overexposed.dispite base iso beginning with 100 iso . so i have to do it manualy but 3 hours starring at a camera is not my favorite hobby.
Awesome tutorial, Emeric. One think I like to do is let my ProTimer hang by the cable, so when I make ramping adjustments, I don't accidentally move or jiggle the camera.
That's kind of risky if the cable unplugs haha if your camera moves if you barely touch the Pro Timer 3, probably best to get a new ball head, it makes the difference !
@@EmericTimelapse I suppose if your cable doesn't snap in securely. I use a Benro 3-Way geared head - definitely solid. But still, cameras can wiggle especially when you have it on a tracker and there's a lot of gear between the camera and the tripod.