I really like how your entire drive and electronics are contained in the red brick on the back and the rest of the bot is basically an add-on where you just connect the motors and battery, screw it together and it's a bot. Very cool design! Bots with actuated spinners make me happy, it's not just touch the other bot with your weapon and it dies and it just feels like bots like this or hammersaws just give way more exciting matches from the added control aspect. Not just linear punchers like the new Shrapnel Mine but also for example Team Get Wrecked' Esper bot with the 4 bar puncher. Keep innovating!
I don't think it's really that similar to tantrum other than the punching spinner. But I guess that's the only well-known punching spinner robot. There have been others at small scale before too but none exactly like Shrapnel Mine
Such a cool concept! The CAD looks amazing and I enjoy seeing new designs (I don't find CAD boring, espectially with a good voice over explaining your thought process). Thanks for the awesome content!
Switching from a ten tooth pulley to a twenty tooth pulley for more speed reminds me of a spiral pulley. Meaning a variable radius pulley. High starting torque, constant acceleration and high ending speed.
Considering that the belt is already attached to the carriage and your cog belt has limited travel anyway it might be possible to eliminate the cog pulleys and attach the ends of the belt or cord to two spiral pulleys next to each other on the motor shat. One pulley pulling in, the other letting out. Using cord attached to a narrow regular pulley and just letting the cord rap over it’s self would get the same affect as a spiral cam. This has been done successfully before. So it’s an idea.
Sorry no. But I did make up a crude drawing and verified that it would work. Estimating that the puncher has 75mm of travel the cam pulley would vary from 10mm radius to 20mm radius in 290 degrees. That is 29 degrees per 1mm increase in radius. With two pulleys clocked 180 degrees from each other. 80 pound Kevlar fishing line is 0.43mm diameter so at 1mm diameter it should hold about 400 pounds so the axial offset would be minimal.
@@JustCuzRobotics if your idler pulley was also variable radius, that would take up the slack. e.g. both pulleys are circular, but eccentric. total perimeter stays the same, but the effective gear ratio will be variable. depends how many rotations the puley goes through in the sliding.
Interesting to see a trademark feature of a heavy go downwards into a smaller class bot cos usually it's the other way round (lol). Anyway, I had a thought for a flipper using something similar to the slider mechanism you have, would be interesting to see someone give it a go.
i like the design! make up for the lack of bite on the twin tooth blade by adding a punching system instead of using a 1 tooth blade, simply brilliant!
That's pretty nice to be able to mount the hub motor only on one side but I guess you're having to endure less horizontal load because it's not sitting out the front all the time. Lovely robot.
I mentioned this later in the video, the next batch of 5022 motors will have a redesign to make them more robust when mounted on only 1 side. This current version has almost no support on the far side bearing but it did the job shockingly well considering!
Weird thing I noticed with my ant: Momentum is what launches opponents, which looks more impressive to judges and is more likely to unplug internals. Kinetic energy is what causes armor directly in contact with the weapon to fail. Momentum is I times Angular Velocity. Kinetic Energy is 1/2 times I times Angular Velocity squared. So, the tiny 55g frisk on my ant at 19k RPM is great at leaving scars in my opponents wedge, but can barely flip opponents over. I assume a puncher spinner like yours will be similar.
It should be a mix of energy and bite. I definitely need to put more than the bare minimum effort into my weapon design for the next version tho. I kinda threw this one together as it was something I knew would work and was a bit heavier than the single tooth blade on my ant.
so excited to see more people experiment with the puncher concept. I think Tantrum really hit on something with this and the design has loads of unseen potential (that is, as much unseen potential as a giant nut-winning bot can have at least :V)
Yes please for a video on CNC madness ordering. Maybe even one for planeform as well. I’ve thought about using those services but the process was confusing me. Also would it be possible to add machining to your 3d printing service or is that not in the cards at the moment.
Machining is super labor intensive and my CNC is sort limited in what it can do. I considered it but CNC Madness offers some amazing prices that are hard to beat. I might reevaluate sometime in the future though.
For 4-in-1 ESCs I like having a cheapo betaflight-compatible drone flight controller handy -- then you can just plug the connector between the flight controller and the ESC, plug the flight controller into USB, and use the betaflight passthrough to do ESC config stuff on all of the ESCs at once with the normal ESC config app. (just make sure the FC and ESC plugs are compatible.. sometimes they may be same size but you have to re-arrange the pins, which is pretty easy with a needle or something to lift the tab)
@@JustCuzRobotics You really don't really need to deal with betaflight, but having it on the flight controller (that probably comes with it) allows the easy peasy ESC passthrough.
Depending on the firmware it runs you can also programme an Arduino as a 4 way programmer, then hard wire it to a cable that matches the plug on the ESC. Then you can heatshrink the whole lot and just unplug the receiver and plug in the programmer when it's needed.
I actually like looking at the CAD drawings. The color coding makes it easier to see the individual parts. For the puncher drive you want a high starting torque drive not just high speed. You want high acceleration not high top end speed. Like you know; a 25 mph robot in an 8 foot arena doesn’t get it. And you have how many inches to accelerate in? Torque means amps; high amps in a short time means low induction. Sometimes increasing the gear ratio will increase the acceleration. Which gear does your car accelerate the best in, first or fifth? This is not intended to be a solution, just a reminder of the theory. I appreciate your channel 👍
I use those 4 in 1 ESC's in mine and I just made up a breakout PCB board that you just unplug the receiver and plug it in. then just plug the programmer into the breakout board to program the Each of the ESC's
I'm not sure I know exactly what you mean. The belt can only move when the slider moves. The sliding mount hits endstops on both sides of travel positioned so the linear guide doesn't go past the end of the rail and spill ball bearings everywhere. I definitely failed to do that properly once in testing...
Two questions, one about the Blitz Pro, the other about the bot: Are the Blitz Pros compatible with your dual ESCs? And wouldn’t some kind of shuffler mechanism for drive help make weight, or would that make the drive too heavy? (Or is the shuffler bonus just an NHRL thing)
The Blitz Pros do not work with any brushed speed controllers only brushless speed controllers. So my WEKA will not work. However I am working on a custom brushless ESC for them, and I sell single ESCs pre programmed for them which are basically plug N play. Shuffler bonus would mean more weight but it's getting reduced to 25% and the added complexity isn't always worth it.
Did you consider using motor braking on the rail drive ESC not only to slow it down when hit but also regenerating some power putting it back into the battery?
I never used more than about 45% of my battery during even a 3 minute long fight. Turning on regenerative braking for brushless speed controllers can cause a lot of voltage spikes and weird problems so I just left it disabled.
It's complicated. Best thing is buy a cheap power meter and a battery of the correct voltwge and test current draw from the weapon system as that's usually 90% of the power used if it's a spinner robot. If it's not a spinner 300mah is fine.
I was thinking of implementing something similar to this, but with a drill instead. How do you control the end points for this setup? When you run the motor that moves the belt and it hits the end at end and then back to the end at the beginning, won't the motor try to keep pushing unless you know exactly how long you need to run it? Normally on CNC machines and such there is a switch at the end sending a signal that the end has been reached. I was thinking if I should use a servo with stall protection or a normal brushless motor to power the belt. I don't really need super speed, but for a drill I would need something that can push pretty well.
I just have it slam into the end stops and it's fine mostly. I will probably add soft TPU bumpers to travel ends. Adding sensors or limit switches is a whiole new level of complication. I could do timed power pulses in theory tho. For a drill a servo will work but I caution you to consider if that will be an effective weapon. You need the opponent held extremely still.
@@JustCuzRobotics Ah, maybe its not an issue stalling the motor and I can just push it forward for a while. For the actual drill I was thinking of using a normal brushless motor with built in gear box, such as the Repeat Mini. But for moving the belt I was thinking if the same type of motor was the best choice. I noticed that servos were very heavy, so maybe i'll go with the Repeat Mini, but the high torque version. The rest of the bot is designed to hold the oponent still. First I thought it would only be a control bot but then I wanted to add some sort of main weapon.
@@JustCuzRobotics Haha yeah, but I am only counting on drilling plastic. We will see how well it works. About your pulleys, there is one in front supported only on one side. What kind of shaft do you use? And how is it attached to the mount? I assume you want a D-shaft through the pulley, and that goes into a bearing, but how to secure it without just relying on press fit?
I'm not entirely sure which pulley you're referring to. On the slider I have an aluminum pulley on the motor shaft which is a d shaft and then a set screw clamps it to the flat on the shaft allowing them to rotate together. The front most pulley is 3D printed out of nylon is supported on both sides and it has a smooth shaft pushed through it and it just acts as a bushing for itself.
Might try to do that early next year, but my main focus is on Sonic right now. There's only one full combat ant-weight competition that I can really get to easily and it's held in Hartford about 3 times a year
![Division V4: Hubmotor Weapon & Counter Gyro Put to the Test! [NHRL January 2024 Event Recap]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dg-9NFLUqR4/mqdefault.jpg)
![[#2024MAMA] BIGBANG (빅뱅) - 뱅뱅뱅 (BANG BANG BANG) + FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQsYfiPR9uM/mqdefault.jpg)
I really like how your entire drive and electronics are contained in the red brick on the back and the rest of the bot is basically an add-on where you just connect the motors and battery, screw it together and it's a bot. Very cool design!
Bots with actuated spinners make me happy, it's not just touch the other bot with your weapon and it dies and it just feels like bots like this or hammersaws just give way more exciting matches from the added control aspect. Not just linear punchers like the new Shrapnel Mine but also for example Team Get Wrecked' Esper bot with the 4 bar puncher.
Keep innovating!
Thanks! I have been trying to make my bots more modular and serviceable and this certainly helps.
So Operation Just Cuz Tantrum is officially a-go?
I don't think it's really that similar to tantrum other than the punching spinner. But I guess that's the only well-known punching spinner robot. There have been others at small scale before too but none exactly like Shrapnel Mine
Such a cool concept! The CAD looks amazing and I enjoy seeing new designs (I don't find CAD boring, espectially with a good voice over explaining your thought process). Thanks for the awesome content!
Thank you as well!
I also recently made a beetleweight punch spinner. It looks very different than what i ended up with.
Shrapnel Mine is upgraded with Tantrum vibes. Quite a good choice. The NEW Shrapnel Mine looks stronger and more robust than the Previous version.
Switching from a ten tooth pulley to a twenty tooth pulley for more speed reminds me of a spiral pulley. Meaning a variable radius pulley. High starting torque, constant acceleration and high ending speed.
Wouldn't that mean I need some sort of moving tensioner though?
Considering that the belt is already attached to the carriage and your cog belt has limited travel anyway it might be possible to eliminate the cog pulleys and attach the ends of the belt or cord to two spiral pulleys next to each other on the motor shat. One pulley pulling in, the other letting out. Using cord attached to a narrow regular pulley and just letting the cord rap over it’s self would get the same affect as a spiral cam. This has been done successfully before. So it’s an idea.
@StevenStyczinski-sy8cj have any examples you can link to so I can see for myself what it looks like?
Sorry no. But I did make up a crude drawing and verified that it would work. Estimating that the puncher has 75mm of travel the cam pulley would vary from 10mm radius to 20mm radius in 290 degrees. That is 29 degrees per 1mm increase in radius. With two pulleys clocked 180 degrees from each other. 80 pound Kevlar fishing line is 0.43mm diameter so at 1mm diameter it should hold about 400 pounds so the axial offset would be minimal.
@@JustCuzRobotics if your idler pulley was also variable radius, that would take up the slack. e.g. both pulleys are circular, but eccentric. total perimeter stays the same, but the effective gear ratio will be variable. depends how many rotations the puley goes through in the sliding.
Lets go! Schrapnel mine is one of my favorites of your bots!
Interesting to see a trademark feature of a heavy go downwards into a smaller class bot cos usually it's the other way round (lol). Anyway, I had a thought for a flipper using something similar to the slider mechanism you have, would be interesting to see someone give it a go.
I like the single frame ad at 17:59 🙂
i like the design! make up for the lack of bite on the twin tooth blade by adding a punching system instead of using a 1 tooth blade, simply brilliant!
Ehhh not exactly. If the punch is fast enough then there is no guarantee the tooth actually hits my opponent if using a single tooth.
@@JustCuzRobotics Would it have a chance of hitting the shorter side?
Yeah, especially if the weapon isn't spinning at full speed there is a good chance
@@JustCuzRobotics i think the bottoming out concern is really silly considering how easy it is to fix (higher rpm, higher bite teeth)
That's pretty nice to be able to mount the hub motor only on one side but I guess you're having to endure less horizontal load because it's not sitting out the front all the time.
Lovely robot.
I mentioned this later in the video, the next batch of 5022 motors will have a redesign to make them more robust when mounted on only 1 side. This current version has almost no support on the far side bearing but it did the job shockingly well considering!
Weird thing I noticed with my ant: Momentum is what launches opponents, which looks more impressive to judges and is more likely to unplug internals. Kinetic energy is what causes armor directly in contact with the weapon to fail.
Momentum is I times Angular Velocity. Kinetic Energy is 1/2 times I times Angular Velocity squared.
So, the tiny 55g frisk on my ant at 19k RPM is great at leaving scars in my opponents wedge, but can barely flip opponents over. I assume a puncher spinner like yours will be similar.
It should be a mix of energy and bite. I definitely need to put more than the bare minimum effort into my weapon design for the next version tho. I kinda threw this one together as it was something I knew would work and was a bit heavier than the single tooth blade on my ant.
so excited to see more people experiment with the puncher concept. I think Tantrum really hit on something with this and the design has loads of unseen potential (that is, as much unseen potential as a giant nut-winning bot can have at least :V)
I want to see how you machined the CF. Did you take any special safety precautions?
I chased the Endmill with a shopvac and wore an N95 mask. But it's still a little sketchy.
Yes please for a video on CNC madness ordering. Maybe even one for planeform as well. I’ve thought about using those services but the process was confusing me.
Also would it be possible to add machining to your 3d printing service or is that not in the cards at the moment.
Machining is super labor intensive and my CNC is sort limited in what it can do. I considered it but CNC Madness offers some amazing prices that are hard to beat. I might reevaluate sometime in the future though.
For 4-in-1 ESCs I like having a cheapo betaflight-compatible drone flight controller handy -- then you can just plug the connector between the flight controller and the ESC, plug the flight controller into USB, and use the betaflight passthrough to do ESC config stuff on all of the ESCs at once with the normal ESC config app. (just make sure the FC and ESC plugs are compatible.. sometimes they may be same size but you have to re-arrange the pins, which is pretty easy with a needle or something to lift the tab)
Probably a good point. I have just never touched drunk stuff before and have no familiarity with betaflight
@@JustCuzRobotics You really don't really need to deal with betaflight, but having it on the flight controller (that probably comes with it) allows the easy peasy ESC passthrough.
Depending on the firmware it runs you can also programme an Arduino as a 4 way programmer, then hard wire it to a cable that matches the plug on the ESC. Then you can heatshrink the whole lot and just unplug the receiver and plug in the programmer when it's needed.
For AM32 I don't know if that works. But I can give it a shot
I actually like looking at the CAD drawings. The color coding makes it easier to see the individual parts.
For the puncher drive you want a high starting torque drive not just high speed. You want high acceleration not high top end speed. Like you know; a 25 mph robot in an 8 foot arena doesn’t get it. And you have how many inches to accelerate in? Torque means amps; high amps in a short time means low induction. Sometimes increasing the gear ratio will increase the acceleration. Which gear does your car accelerate the best in, first or fifth? This is not intended to be a solution, just a reminder of the theory.
I appreciate your channel 👍
I have a lot of levers to pull with the slider. Larger pulley and higher voltage (which in turn means more power to the motor) should help a lot
I use those 4 in 1 ESC's in mine and I just made up a breakout PCB board that you just unplug the receiver and plug it in. then just plug the programmer into the breakout board to program the Each of the ESC's
Breakout PCB is a good idea!
How does the belt not spin too much and jam the sliding mount that screws to the belt?
I'm not sure I know exactly what you mean. The belt can only move when the slider moves.
The sliding mount hits endstops on both sides of travel positioned so the linear guide doesn't go past the end of the rail and spill ball bearings everywhere. I definitely failed to do that properly once in testing...
Two questions, one about the Blitz Pro, the other about the bot:
Are the Blitz Pros compatible with your dual ESCs? And wouldn’t some kind of shuffler mechanism for drive help make weight, or would that make the drive too heavy? (Or is the shuffler bonus just an NHRL thing)
The Blitz Pros do not work with any brushed speed controllers only brushless speed controllers. So my WEKA will not work. However I am working on a custom brushless ESC for them, and I sell single ESCs pre programmed for them which are basically plug N play.
Shuffler bonus would mean more weight but it's getting reduced to 25% and the added complexity isn't always worth it.
15:56 Bob from Blue Marlin be like: "Wow really? that's crazy!"
Haha yeah I found out after this that he used the same filament
Did you consider using motor braking on the rail drive ESC not only to slow it down when hit but also regenerating some power putting it back into the battery?
I never used more than about 45% of my battery during even a 3 minute long fight. Turning on regenerative braking for brushless speed controllers can cause a lot of voltage spikes and weird problems so I just left it disabled.
@@JustCuzRobotics Makes sense. I guess that's why every FC or BNF quad on the market today comes with a beefy capacitor to absorb the spikes.
How did you cut down the drive shafts so they dont stick out like they do in the CAD?
A cutoff wheel in a Dremel should work
Yeah just a dremel and metal cutting wheel
Hi,
Can I know to calculate the battery capacity required?
It's complicated. Best thing is buy a cheap power meter and a battery of the correct voltwge and test current draw from the weapon system as that's usually 90% of the power used if it's a spinner robot. If it's not a spinner 300mah is fine.
I was thinking of implementing something similar to this, but with a drill instead.
How do you control the end points for this setup?
When you run the motor that moves the belt and it hits the end at end and then back to the end at the beginning, won't the motor try to keep pushing unless you know exactly how long you need to run it? Normally on CNC machines and such there is a switch at the end sending a signal that the end has been reached.
I was thinking if I should use a servo with stall protection or a normal brushless motor to power the belt. I don't really need super speed, but for a drill I would need something that can push pretty well.
I just have it slam into the end stops and it's fine mostly. I will probably add soft TPU bumpers to travel ends. Adding sensors or limit switches is a whiole new level of complication. I could do timed power pulses in theory tho.
For a drill a servo will work but I caution you to consider if that will be an effective weapon. You need the opponent held extremely still.
@@JustCuzRobotics Ah, maybe its not an issue stalling the motor and I can just push it forward for a while.
For the actual drill I was thinking of using a normal brushless motor with built in gear box, such as the Repeat Mini. But for moving the belt I was thinking if the same type of motor was the best choice. I noticed that servos were very heavy, so maybe i'll go with the Repeat Mini, but the high torque version.
The rest of the bot is designed to hold the oponent still. First I thought it would only be a control bot but then I wanted to add some sort of main weapon.
A repeat mini has probably like 5% the torque of a proper drill motor
@@JustCuzRobotics Haha yeah, but I am only counting on drilling plastic. We will see how well it works.
About your pulleys, there is one in front supported only on one side. What kind of shaft do you use? And how is it attached to the mount?
I assume you want a D-shaft through the pulley, and that goes into a bearing, but how to secure it without just relying on press fit?
I'm not entirely sure which pulley you're referring to. On the slider I have an aluminum pulley on the motor shaft which is a d shaft and then a set screw clamps it to the flat on the shaft allowing them to rotate together. The front most pulley is 3D printed out of nylon is supported on both sides and it has a smooth shaft pushed through it and it just acts as a bushing for itself.
Nice bot, still wish you would give mini mulcher some love.
Might try to do that early next year, but my main focus is on Sonic right now. There's only one full combat ant-weight competition that I can really get to easily and it's held in Hartford about 3 times a year
@@JustCuzRoboticsMakerbattle?
@@JustCuzRoboticsare you going to the November event?
Yup!
So CLOSE TO 10K!!! OMG SUBSCRIBE GUYS
Dang I forgot to say this in the video! I'll do something cool at 10k for sure
It’s so cool
Thanks!