O U T S T A N D I N G video!!! You took the time to cover absolutely everything in such detail, that now I definitely feel completely confident I can do it myself. Thank you VERY MUCH for another super helpful video ! ! ! !
A great detailed instructional video. You do a great service showing replacing the bearing in a used grimy machine. At least one of the other companies that post a similar video do it on a new unused washer and you don't really have a good idea of what you are getting into. Even if you aren't new to repairing your own appliances; this is a very critical point because it is not all 'slip off - slip on' as you would expect viewing other video's for these repairs. My washer is 15 years old and there IS a lot of grime and gunk and the parts don't just slip off. Thank you very much!
I am really impressed that your washer has lasted for 15 years. My last two, including the Maytag that I have now, have only lasted two years. The other one had a bad control board that cost $400, so I junked that one. Now I am working on my Maytag with a spin problem. I just fixed my two year old dryer. My first dryer lasted a long time, over 10 years. I am not having much luck with these new appliances.
Great video. No loud techno noises or music over top of the speech. Love that. Very easy to follow. Maybe recommend washing a load of some old towels or something after repair. Wouldn't want nice clothes to be the first thing.
Excelent. Thank you very much to share your video. I don't speak English but the illustrations in the video were enough for me. Congratulations for your professional quality.
Watched once and had the confidence to take my washer apart thanks to you. I'm waiting on my spin bearing right part right now in the mail. Thanks for this great video!
this is the best video with complete explanation of how to replace the Spin Bearing. I took the opportunity to do a complete cleaning of both tubs and removed the screen on the back side of the outer tub it was completely clogged. There was nothing wrong with my spin barring through. I think it might be the door latch senor that might be the problem....I'll let you know.
I have the same washing machine but the spin bearing was fine but the one way bearing on the bottom side of the gearbox was bad. It sounded like a jet airplane taking off when in the spin cycle. I tried to buy a new bearing from the dealer but they said it was part of the gearbox so you have to buy a new gearbox at $300.00 plus. I found the bearing number KOYO WCB6205 at Johnson Bearing Supply for less than $20.00 delivered. Great video BTW.
@@nigelcushing9108 Yes, I changed the bearing and it worked fine for about 5 years and then gearbox started making grinding noises so I got a new washing machine. I was looking for a picture to remind me how I removed the old bearing but if you have a new one you can destroy the old one.
There is a perfect socket for driving the bearing out. It’s a 12 point 3/8s Drive normally used to remove the heat sensor on older GMC/Chev engines. The socket measures 1-3/8” o.d. It has a taper toward the drive end that fits perfectly in the 1-1/4” I.d. of the worn bearing. You can use your extension to fit inside the socket (backwards) into the square 3/8s drive end. Then just strike the extension and watch the bearing slide out with no danger of damaging the plastic sleeve that the bearing sits in.
So would a bad spin bearing cause a loud banging noise only when the tub is coming to a stop after a spin cycle? The motor at this point is not spinning, so the tub is just coming to a stop and makes a loud banging noise. The noise goes away if I remove the agitator, but I can still hear some slight grind a few times during the stopping down of the tub. The agitator is evidently amplifying the problem.
i do have an OLD WHITE WESTINGHOUSE its very similar or identical to this with just a longer shaft and agitator but my bolts sheered off and brook and I am letting sit-in liquid ranch as its still frozen and stuck
How did you get the agitator out so easily? Removed the 1/2 inch bolt and mine is a fight and I STILL can’t get it off. Tried tying straps underneath it to pry up. Any ideas? 🤔
Some are impossible to get off (like mine). The agitator easily slides up about an inch then hits a hard STOP. I cannot find any source on any fixit site to solve this problem.
It looks like some penetrating oil was used and let it sit for a while before removing it. It can still be difficult to get it out even using penetrating oil.
How do I know if my part needs to be replaced? I mean, how does this part get damaged ? What are the signs that indicate the part needs to be replaced?
You could experience loud noises like grinding or rumbling during the spin cycle. Another symptom is the drum struggling to spin or not spinning as smoothly as it should.
WOW totally Awesome job guys. Good instructions with helpful tip, advice and great camera work and audio editing. Just what I needed. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's called a "plain bearing" or sometimes a "journal bearing" depending on the person to whom the question is asked. Some people call it a "bushing" instead, or a "bearing bush," since a bushing is something (usually soft and sacrificial) that takes up a gap and slop between a center shaft/rod and the inner diameter of a hole. Bushings can be made of rubber, plastic, or soft metals like lead, babbitt, brass, bronze, etc. Your car for example, has control arm bushings made of a moderate rubber that flexes and soaks up impact from bumps in the road. However, the crankshaft and connecting rods of the pistons use journal bearings where there is a thin shell of copper and babbitt material that sits clamped in between the ID of the hole of the connecting rod and the OD of the journal of the crankshaft. The soft copper and babbitt wear away first and pretty easily because the crankshaft journal surface is hardened and it's very tough. Pressurized engine oil "floats" the 2 surfaces apart though so they don't even touch 99% of the time. A different example is a manual transmission car which will often have a pilot bushing in the flywheel to support the hardened tip of the steel input shaft, and that bronze bearing material is called "Oilite" sintered bronze. It's made of soft bronze pieces that are pressed and melted together, which creates pockets and channels which hold oil. These pockets make the material self-lubricating and very slippery. Again, the bronze wears out before the hardened shaft tip. So this style of bearing or bushing can be called either thing depending on how you look at it. I generally understand it to be that bearings support rotation or sliding action of hard materials which are always moving. Bushings take up space and give support or cushion, and there's not much movement occuring. Some rotation may occur, and some stretching and relaxing may occur, like the control arm bushings in the car. "Bearings" facilitate 2 hard materials that bear down against one another, although 1 material (the bearing) is sacrificial and wears away before the other does.
Will this fix the noisy agitator that I can spin freely by hand? It no longer locks and agitates or spins in spin mode. Or do I have another problem? Thanks
You never once mentioned removing the vacuum tube from the side clip on the outer tub, or the need to put it back in place when reassembling. Also, no cautionary statement was made regarding the upper shaft seal. I found out the hard was that special care must be taken when reinstalling it over the transmission shaft. If the rubber portion pops out of the brass ring portion, you will have a leaking machine.
My trunion was basically rusted onto the shaft. I tried penetrating oil overnight. Nope. Hammered it. Nope. Tried a heat gun to hopefully break the rust bond. Maybe. Tried pouring boiling water over the shaft/trunion. Maybe. Tried screwing in 1 of the 5 trunion bolts about 1/2 way, then used a big flat head screwdriver to pry against the one bolt to try to spin the trunion. Nope. After getting frustrated, I hit the trunion harder with a hammer thinking the next step was to get an angle grinder with a metal cutoff disc and just cut it off. Maybe all of these helped, or maybe it was just being more "persuasive" with the hammer. Finally got it loose and got it off. We'll see how installing a new bearing and seal goes - and if that will fix the banging during the spin cycle and the water leak during wash. Has been banging for awhile but the water leak is new. FYI - there's a metal spring inside that tub seal, so don't think that it's just rubber.
thank you a lot for this video , i have accidentally washed a 3inche wood screw , spin mode was stuck , im impressed by what is inside these washer like powerfull electric water pump and some pulley , motor look sexy too , thanks again gratz fromquebec canada
Good evening from Australia, I have just finished watching your video on the replacement of a spin bearing. However, I have an Australian made washing machine who longer provide videos or repair manuals. Having said that, my only problem is that on my machine I have 2 x 6mm hex bolts as opposed to 2 x 1/2" bolts that hold the trunnion block together as demonstrated on your "video model". I'm having great difficulty removing the hex bolts and I'm concerned that I might strip the head of the hex. Can you advise how I might be able to remove the bolts. 1) as they are now and 2) if I strip the heads please? Looking forward in anticipation to your reply.
If they won’t come off with penetrating oil or anything like that you would probably have to cut them off and get new parts, angle grinder or maybe a good hacksaw/reciprocating saw
If you need additional help with the repair, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Hello thank you for your very well explained video, I have a frijidaire fws933fs0 top load washer, it spins for the centrifugal part, but at the beginning of the cycle the motor wants to star moving but something doesn’t let it so it shots down, I thought the agitator had independent movement from the the tub, but after watching your video, I can see both are connected to the transmision shaft, any ideas ? Thanks
When the bearing goes bad, you’ll typically get a lot of noise during the spin cycle. They wear out over time with repeated use. You can plug your model number into the search bar on our website www.appliancepartspros.com/ and it will give you a breakdown of all the parts available for your unit. You can use this tool to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
If you need additional help with the repair outside of what's demonstrated in the video, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
You'll see this part on the diagram as #26. You can look here (www.appliancepartspros.com/motor-tub-parts-for-frigidaire-fwsb6600fs1.html) and see all the parts on the diagram listed here.
Sometimes it can be difficult to tell just based on a visual inspection. Parts that are broken don't always look broken. We'd be happy to help you figure it out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Noise during the spin cycle is your first clue. If you need help with diagnosis, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
You're correct that there are no ball bearings, but not all bearings are balls. It could probably fairly be called a bushing, but we always refer to the parts however the manufacturer has labeled them
It is both. Interchangable terminology when dealing with a plain bearing or sleeve bearing. Bearings facilitate the rotation or sliding of 2 hard materials against each other. Bushings take up slop or space between a hole in an object and a shaft that goes through that hole. When you have a sacrificial material that takes up the space but is meant to support a rotating shaft, it's both a bearing and a bushing. Some people call it a "bush bearing" for that reason.
O U T S T A N D I N G video!!!
You took the time to cover absolutely everything in such detail, that now I definitely feel completely confident I can do it myself.
Thank you VERY MUCH for another super helpful video ! ! ! !
Glad we could help out!
In 2024, I am replacing the spin bearing on my 28 year old washer. Thanks for the tutorial.
You're welcome!
How do I know if my part needs to be replaced? I mean, how does this part get damaged?
What are the signs that indicate the part needs to be replaced?
A great detailed instructional video. You do a great service showing replacing the bearing in a used grimy machine. At least one of the other companies that post a similar video do it on a new unused washer and you don't really have a good idea of what you are getting into. Even if you aren't new to repairing your own appliances; this is a very critical point because it is not all 'slip off - slip on' as you would expect viewing other video's for these repairs. My washer is 15 years old and there IS a lot of grime and gunk and the parts don't just slip off. Thank you very much!
Thank you for your feedback. We're so glad that the video could help you out!
00000000
I am really impressed that your washer has lasted for 15 years. My last two, including the Maytag that I have now, have only lasted two years. The other one had a bad control board that cost $400, so I junked that one. Now I am working on my Maytag with a spin problem. I just fixed my two year old dryer. My first dryer lasted a long time, over 10 years. I am not having much luck with these new appliances.
@@charleswilson4598 I'm really wary of new appliances. These days you get features for the price, instead of a strong machine.
Great video. No loud techno noises or music over top of the speech. Love that. Very easy to follow. Maybe recommend washing a load of some old towels or something after repair. Wouldn't want nice clothes to be the first thing.
Excelent. Thank you very much to share your video. I don't speak English but the illustrations in the video were enough for me. Congratulations for your professional quality.
Watched once and had the confidence to take my washer apart thanks to you. I'm waiting on my spin bearing right part right now in the mail. Thanks for this great video!
How do we differentiate whether spin bearing or the transmission that goes bad?
this is the best video with complete explanation of how to replace the Spin Bearing. I took the opportunity to do a complete cleaning of both tubs and removed the screen on the back side of the outer tub it was completely clogged. There was nothing wrong with my spin barring through. I think it might be the door latch senor that might be the problem....I'll let you know.
I have the same washing machine but the spin bearing was fine but the one way bearing on the bottom side of the gearbox was bad. It sounded like a jet airplane taking off when in the spin cycle. I tried to buy a new bearing from the dealer but they said it was part of the gearbox so you have to buy a new gearbox at $300.00 plus.
I found the bearing number KOYO WCB6205 at Johnson Bearing Supply for less than $20.00 delivered.
Great video BTW.
h
Publc reply
So is it even possible to place the new wcb6205 bearing in the bottom of the trans assembly? Were you successful? Very grateful for any pointers. 😊
@@nigelcushing9108 Yes, I changed the bearing and it worked fine for about 5 years and then gearbox started making grinding noises so I got a new washing machine. I was looking for a picture to remind me how I removed the old bearing but if you have a new one you can destroy the old one.
There is a perfect socket for driving the bearing out. It’s a 12 point 3/8s Drive normally used to remove the heat sensor on older GMC/Chev engines. The socket measures 1-3/8” o.d. It has a taper toward the drive end that fits perfectly in the 1-1/4” I.d. of the worn bearing. You can use your extension to fit inside the socket (backwards) into the square 3/8s drive end. Then just strike the extension and watch the bearing slide out with no danger of damaging the plastic sleeve that the bearing sits in.
So would a bad spin bearing cause a loud banging noise only when the tub is coming to a stop after a spin cycle? The motor at this point is not spinning, so the tub is just coming to a stop and makes a loud banging noise. The noise goes away if I remove the agitator, but I can still hear some slight grind a few times during the stopping down of the tub. The agitator is evidently amplifying the problem.
i do have an OLD WHITE WESTINGHOUSE its very similar or identical to this with just a longer shaft and agitator but my bolts sheered off and brook and I am letting sit-in liquid ranch as its still frozen and stuck
Are you sure the position of the top half of the seal (min 16:00) is not the other way around?
How did you get the agitator out so easily? Removed the 1/2 inch bolt and mine is a fight and I STILL can’t get it off. Tried tying straps underneath it to pry up. Any ideas? 🤔
Some are impossible to get off (like mine). The agitator easily slides up about an inch then hits a hard STOP. I cannot find any source on any fixit site to solve this problem.
Gracias creo que es la mejor muestra de profeionalismo sin muchos rodeos que los otros videos que me confudian mas practico gracias.
saludos brother cual es la falla que causa esa pieza por el cual la estas cambiando gracias espero tus comentarios
Hurray! I did it! Thanks so much!
Once you removed the inner tub what did you do to break it free?
It looks like some penetrating oil was used and let it sit for a while before removing it. It can still be difficult to get it out even using penetrating oil.
Thanks, necesito que me des la opción de traducción en tus vídeos que son muy interesante como buen a enseñanzas para aprender
What are the symptoms of a bad transmission?
Extremely helpful video, thanks for posting. I just did the job myself without a hitch
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Mi fijidaire suena como si rosara fierro con fierro
How do I know if my part needs to be replaced? I mean, how does this part get damaged ?
What are the signs that indicate the part needs to be replaced?
You could experience loud noises like grinding or rumbling during the spin cycle. Another symptom is the drum struggling to spin or not spinning as smoothly as it should.
WOW totally Awesome job guys. Good instructions with helpful tip, advice and great camera work and audio editing. Just what I needed. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
You're welcome!
What makes that a bearing? Looks like just a sleeve. Does it make noise because the diameter has widened?
It's called a "plain bearing" or sometimes a "journal bearing" depending on the person to whom the question is asked. Some people call it a "bushing" instead, or a "bearing bush," since a bushing is something (usually soft and sacrificial) that takes up a gap and slop between a center shaft/rod and the inner diameter of a hole. Bushings can be made of rubber, plastic, or soft metals like lead, babbitt, brass, bronze, etc. Your car for example, has control arm bushings made of a moderate rubber that flexes and soaks up impact from bumps in the road. However, the crankshaft and connecting rods of the pistons use journal bearings where there is a thin shell of copper and babbitt material that sits clamped in between the ID of the hole of the connecting rod and the OD of the journal of the crankshaft. The soft copper and babbitt wear away first and pretty easily because the crankshaft journal surface is hardened and it's very tough. Pressurized engine oil "floats" the 2 surfaces apart though so they don't even touch 99% of the time. A different example is a manual transmission car which will often have a pilot bushing in the flywheel to support the hardened tip of the steel input shaft, and that bronze bearing material is called "Oilite" sintered bronze. It's made of soft bronze pieces that are pressed and melted together, which creates pockets and channels which hold oil. These pockets make the material self-lubricating and very slippery. Again, the bronze wears out before the hardened shaft tip. So this style of bearing or bushing can be called either thing depending on how you look at it. I generally understand it to be that bearings support rotation or sliding action of hard materials which are always moving. Bushings take up space and give support or cushion, and there's not much movement occuring. Some rotation may occur, and some stretching and relaxing may occur, like the control arm bushings in the car. "Bearings" facilitate 2 hard materials that bear down against one another, although 1 material (the bearing) is sacrificial and wears away before the other does.
Will this fix the noisy agitator that I can spin freely by hand? It no longer locks and agitates or spins in spin mode. Or do I have another problem? Thanks
did you lube the bushing . with what if you did ?
Excellent video . Every aspect was covered in detail .
Glad we could help!
You never once mentioned removing the vacuum tube from the side clip on the outer tub, or the need to put it back in place when reassembling. Also, no cautionary statement was made regarding the upper shaft seal. I found out the hard was that special care must be taken when reinstalling it over the transmission shaft. If the rubber portion pops out of the brass ring portion, you will have a leaking machine.
No grease/lube on the bearing surface?
My frigidare horizon 2000 can do dry-spin but it does not wash. Pls give me a clue what's wrong.
Me gusta como explica, gracias por el video, saludos
Cambie el reten central y no cambie la parte centra de netal qye va en la tina ..ahora a desarmar nuevamente para cambiar esa bocina central...
Lamento que tengas que volver a desmontar la unidad. Si tienes alguna pregunta, ¡háznosla saber!
My trunion was basically rusted onto the shaft. I tried penetrating oil overnight. Nope. Hammered it. Nope. Tried a heat gun to hopefully break the rust bond. Maybe. Tried pouring boiling water over the shaft/trunion. Maybe. Tried screwing in 1 of the 5 trunion bolts about 1/2 way, then used a big flat head screwdriver to pry against the one bolt to try to spin the trunion. Nope. After getting frustrated, I hit the trunion harder with a hammer thinking the next step was to get an angle grinder with a metal cutoff disc and just cut it off. Maybe all of these helped, or maybe it was just being more "persuasive" with the hammer. Finally got it loose and got it off. We'll see how installing a new bearing and seal goes - and if that will fix the banging during the spin cycle and the water leak during wash. Has been banging for awhile but the water leak is new. FYI - there's a metal spring inside that tub seal, so don't think that it's just rubber.
So glad you were able to get that off, let us know if you have any other issues.
Excellent video. Extremely helpful
why is top loading ge washer without agitator vibrating and shaking loud
Check the snubber ring and the support/suspension springs.
thank you a lot for this video , i have accidentally washed a 3inche wood screw , spin mode was stuck , im impressed by what is inside these washer like powerfull electric water pump and some pulley , motor look sexy too , thanks again gratz fromquebec canada
You're welcome!
O
Good evening from Australia, I have just finished watching your video on the replacement of a spin bearing. However, I have an Australian made washing machine who longer provide videos or repair manuals. Having said that, my only problem is that on my machine I have 2 x 6mm hex bolts as opposed to 2 x 1/2" bolts that hold the trunnion block together as demonstrated on your "video model". I'm having great difficulty removing the hex bolts and I'm concerned that I might strip the head of the hex. Can you advise how I might be able to remove the bolts. 1) as they are now and 2) if I strip the heads please? Looking forward in anticipation to your reply.
If they won’t come off with penetrating oil or anything like that you would probably have to cut them off and get new parts, angle grinder or maybe a good hacksaw/reciprocating saw
Thanks , un saludo desde México.
this video is very help to me, because my washer is very load when it's on the spin. now I just have to order the part.lol
Thank you
The transmission shaft won't come out. I have hit it several times with a hammer but it won't budge. Any ideas on how to remove it?
If you need additional help with the repair, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Hello thank you for your very well explained video, I have a frijidaire fws933fs0 top load washer, it spins for the centrifugal part, but at the beginning of the cycle the motor wants to star moving but something doesn’t let it so it shots down, I thought the agitator had independent movement from the the tub, but after watching your video, I can see both are connected to the transmision shaft, any ideas ? Thanks
My washing machine leaking oil down what problem
Transmission seal is probably bad
what was wrong with the spin bearing? Also, is there a place that sells rebuild kits instead of ala cart?
When the bearing goes bad, you’ll typically get a lot of noise during the spin cycle. They wear out over time with repeated use. You can plug your model number into the search bar on our website www.appliancepartspros.com/ and it will give you a breakdown of all the parts available for your unit. You can use this tool to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Darryl Hammond en
what is the function for a transmision bearing block,, in this washer¿¿
If you need additional help with the repair outside of what's demonstrated in the video, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
why is my top loading ge washing machine shaking and vibrating
I need tub seal how do I get one
You are calling this the spin bearing is this the same as "tub bearing" as shown on parts diagram? I do not see a spin bearing listed.
You'll see this part on the diagram as #26. You can look here (www.appliancepartspros.com/motor-tub-parts-for-frigidaire-fwsb6600fs1.html) and see all the parts on the diagram listed here.
Great video. I feel the need to say, "that will be $200 please".
It was just a demo of how to get at the likely source of the noise.
There was nothing in the pump to remove.
Next step ?..
i took the front off and ran it . looks good under basket . it makes noise after its done spinning cycle as it slows down. any comments?
Sometimes it can be difficult to tell just based on a visual inspection. Parts that are broken don't always look broken. We'd be happy to help you figure it out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Congrats
muchas gracias
¡De nada!
I've got a GE stackable that spins very loud like jet engine. Is the spin bearing the cause.
The Student yep
how do you know it was bad?
Noise during the spin cycle is your first clue. If you need help with diagnosis, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Am I right in saying it's basically not a bearing it's a bushing? There are no ball bearings at all
You're correct that there are no ball bearings, but not all bearings are balls. It could probably fairly be called a bushing, but we always refer to the parts however the manufacturer has labeled them
They should come out with a service light like they do for car
si lo publican en español
is good venezuela
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Excelent!! I'm from Venezuela!...
It would be helpful to translate into Spanish writing while explaining,thanks very good
Thanks for your feedback! So glad the video was able to help you out.
Dictenmelo en español
Would a bad spin bearing cause this noise? --> ruclips.net/video/moe2XvJfIUA/видео.html
En.español
This is a bushing not a bearing
A bushing is a bearing Janette. 😀
It is both. Interchangable terminology when dealing with a plain bearing or sleeve bearing. Bearings facilitate the rotation or sliding of 2 hard materials against each other. Bushings take up slop or space between a hole in an object and a shaft that goes through that hole. When you have a sacrificial material that takes up the space but is meant to support a rotating shaft, it's both a bearing and a bushing. Some people call it a "bush bearing" for that reason.
Uds no enseñan nada