If you are climbing milling, putting lubricant on the outside surface would be ok, but conventional milling you need to lubricate the end end mill directly. Try a misting lubricator like a Mister mister, it sprays/mists lubricant using air pressure and would work well
I was conventional milling. I didn't think about that, the cutting surface is coming up through dry metal, then encountering the oiled surface where it won't help. Good observation!
@@jason86768, I was a beginner once too. Learned at the age of 13 in 7th grade… when they still had wood and metal shop in schools, even junior high schools. 👍🏻
Bridgeport has coolant pump? I would use on any HSS bits to get better life of tool. I do have a Bridgeport use it for many projects best thing I ever bought
Couple tips: try not to pause while you're rotating the part in the cut. Those pauses mean the tool is rubbing, and that will cause premature tool dulling. The mismatches in your finish make it look like something was moving in your setup. You shouldn't have steps like that. Could also be the tool or machine moving a little due to tool pressure. Very light finish cuts are best. Finally, that looks like you took it down pretty far, leaving a pretty thin wall on the wheel. Be careful, it may not hold much weight now without failing.
@electech3339 Everything duly noted. It was hard not to pause turning the table because there was quite a bit of pressure, and I had to pause often to add more lube. The wheel could have been more solidly mounted. The center shaft was not a perfect fit, there was only two bolts clamping it to the table. Additionally these cast iron Chinese casters could hardly be considered round. There may have been too much pressure as well. There is approximately 1/8 in of wall left behind, we feel that will be plenty strong enough for the motorcycle jack. If it does decide to give, the frame of the Jack sits very low to the floor now and won't fall far or fast. I haven't done the second wheel yet, but I'm going to take what I've learned from the first wheel and try to machine the second one better/truer.
@@jason86768 I would recommend a vacuum, actually. You don't really need any lubricant for iron. A vacuum helps keep things clean, that stuff is a mess to machine. I didn't catch if you mentioned RPM or not, but it seems a little on the high side to me just listening to it. And that endmill appears to be getting very hot, hotter than it should. May be dull. I would drop the SFM to 50'ish and feed faster. Use two hands on the handle so when one needs to reposition, the other can keep turning. Gotta get that feed up, you're doing way too much rubbing. If I had to do this the way you are doing it, I would probably use a "corncob" rougher to take it down within .005 or so, then switch to a regular endmill just for finishing. That will save a lot of beating on your good endmills. You could try to make a pilot in the center of the table that is a snug fit in the bore of both the table and the wheel if it won't stay put. You gotta get it to stay solidly set in place or it will never cut round and true/concentric.
@electech3339 Yes, I planned on running a vac the 2nd time. It should've been running at 660rpm, my FSWizard calculator recommended 735 IIRC. It visually looks fine to me, but all my tooling is pre-owned... I have a 1" rougher i can try using (same one i cut aluminum with in the first video). What RPM would you recommend for it? I do have a pilot in the center of the wheel. I found a 1/4" dowel pin that fit very nicely in the center of the table. And then tried to create a bushing to go between that rod and the hub of the wheel, however when I drilled the bushing for 1/4 in, it must have been slightly undersized because the pin wouldn't fit. I found a lettered drill bit that was slightly larger than 1/4 inch, however it made it loose. In addition, I've found these wheels are very out of round anyway.
190 RPM is where I'd start for a 1" HSS endmill on a manual mill. Those wizards aren't generally very good for a guy working on a manual mill in his garage. They're more for CNC where the tool never dwells and it's constantly moving at a high rate of feed so most of the heat goes into the chip. Slow feed like you're doing creates a lot of heat in the cutter, and you don't want high RPM on top of that making it worse. If that is a ½" endmill I'd be shooting for more like 380 RPM. You've got to watch out with cheap cast iron wheels, too, because they may contain hard spots or sand that will chew up a cutter pretty quick.
If you are climbing milling, putting lubricant on the outside surface would be ok, but conventional milling you need to lubricate the end end mill directly. Try a misting lubricator like a Mister mister, it sprays/mists lubricant using air pressure and would work well
I was conventional milling. I didn't think about that, the cutting surface is coming up through dry metal, then encountering the oiled surface where it won't help. Good observation!
@@jason86768, I was a beginner once too. Learned at the age of 13 in 7th grade… when they still had wood and metal shop in schools, even junior high schools. 👍🏻
Keep at it mate.
Bridgeport has coolant pump? I would use on any HSS bits to get better life of tool. I do have a Bridgeport use it for many projects best thing I ever bought
No coolant pump on this one. Not sure i want that mess... lots of other people have recommended against it.
Slow your spindle...
Do you have a metal lathe??
@@MrOlddude1957 nope, otherwise I would've used it for this.
You've got a mill but no lathe? That's weird.
@Tenneseejosh sorry, I'm just a hobbyist, can't exactly afford to buy both at the same time.
Rotary table on a mill is just as accurate.Finish won’t be as pretty but it’ll do
It's a lot easier to find a friend with a lathe than a mill. ;-)
Couple tips: try not to pause while you're rotating the part in the cut. Those pauses mean the tool is rubbing, and that will cause premature tool dulling. The mismatches in your finish make it look like something was moving in your setup. You shouldn't have steps like that. Could also be the tool or machine moving a little due to tool pressure. Very light finish cuts are best. Finally, that looks like you took it down pretty far, leaving a pretty thin wall on the wheel. Be careful, it may not hold much weight now without failing.
@electech3339 Everything duly noted. It was hard not to pause turning the table because there was quite a bit of pressure, and I had to pause often to add more lube. The wheel could have been more solidly mounted. The center shaft was not a perfect fit, there was only two bolts clamping it to the table. Additionally these cast iron Chinese casters could hardly be considered round. There may have been too much pressure as well. There is approximately 1/8 in of wall left behind, we feel that will be plenty strong enough for the motorcycle jack. If it does decide to give, the frame of the Jack sits very low to the floor now and won't fall far or fast. I haven't done the second wheel yet, but I'm going to take what I've learned from the first wheel and try to machine the second one better/truer.
@@electech3339 do you recommend any changes to the endmill or the method I use? What steps do you recommend to take off approximately 0.200" in metal?
@@jason86768 I would recommend a vacuum, actually. You don't really need any lubricant for iron. A vacuum helps keep things clean, that stuff is a mess to machine.
I didn't catch if you mentioned RPM or not, but it seems a little on the high side to me just listening to it. And that endmill appears to be getting very hot, hotter than it should. May be dull. I would drop the SFM to 50'ish and feed faster. Use two hands on the handle so when one needs to reposition, the other can keep turning. Gotta get that feed up, you're doing way too much rubbing.
If I had to do this the way you are doing it, I would probably use a "corncob" rougher to take it down within .005 or so, then switch to a regular endmill just for finishing. That will save a lot of beating on your good endmills. You could try to make a pilot in the center of the table that is a snug fit in the bore of both the table and the wheel if it won't stay put. You gotta get it to stay solidly set in place or it will never cut round and true/concentric.
@electech3339 Yes, I planned on running a vac the 2nd time.
It should've been running at 660rpm, my FSWizard calculator recommended 735 IIRC.
It visually looks fine to me, but all my tooling is pre-owned...
I have a 1" rougher i can try using (same one i cut aluminum with in the first video). What RPM would you recommend for it?
I do have a pilot in the center of the wheel. I found a 1/4" dowel pin that fit very nicely in the center of the table. And then tried to create a bushing to go between that rod and the hub of the wheel, however when I drilled the bushing for 1/4 in, it must have been slightly undersized because the pin wouldn't fit. I found a lettered drill bit that was slightly larger than 1/4 inch, however it made it loose.
In addition, I've found these wheels are very out of round anyway.
190 RPM is where I'd start for a 1" HSS endmill on a manual mill. Those wizards aren't generally very good for a guy working on a manual mill in his garage. They're more for CNC where the tool never dwells and it's constantly moving at a high rate of feed so most of the heat goes into the chip. Slow feed like you're doing creates a lot of heat in the cutter, and you don't want high RPM on top of that making it worse. If that is a ½" endmill I'd be shooting for more like 380 RPM.
You've got to watch out with cheap cast iron wheels, too, because they may contain hard spots or sand that will chew up a cutter pretty quick.