Maestro, I wonder if you have seen the maestronet thread recently that had heavily critical things to say about your use of synthetic glue. The issue, as I understand it, is that synthetic glue tends to “creep” over time. And also that once this happens, a joint made with synthetic glue will be more difficult to work on again. I say this with the ultimate humility, as I don’t have enough experience to judge this for myself. But I thought you should be aware of what others are saying. All the best, A big fan of your work.
I was an active member on MN long ago, and would agree with concerns over the use of synthetic glue. We cannot assume that a synthetic glue repair is permanent, and that it never needs to be undone based on where the repair is being executed on the instrument. We can debate the idea that synthetic glue creeps, but it certainly penetrates, hardens and is water resistant. This sounds good to some, but is a pain in the butt for others. I just worked on a violin that was repaired using synthetic glue (saddle - bass bar crack, spruce top), and the repair cracked open on the summer growth. I had to remove an entire section of summer growth to get a glue-able surface. The instrument was not terribly valuable, but it would have been nice for the previous person to think of me. Use proper techniques. I also noticed that on this channel a neck/button repair was done using some unorthodox methods. There was bad information given concerning the term "doubling." Everyone has their own methods, but in general, repairs should not change a violin's basic construction. Don't create unexpected pitfalls for the next person.
But it may have to come apart again if the joint starts to fail - we don't know how a synthetic glue will react after decades. A synthetic glue joint that needs to be redone is problematic because the glue penetrates the wood and will never be completely removable. HHG is what was used when the instrument was built and the HHG joints are reversible no matter how old the instrument is.
Thx for sharing. I have a 1965 Martin Guitar that fell of a person carrying on a motorcycle and have been waiting for the expertise to do the job. I am inspired to commence the project.
Thank you for this wonderful video. Do you know if there is research into how well PVA glue holds up over long periods of time? Some violins survive from the 17 century with the original glue. I'm not questioning your glue choices, I'm just curious.
I love your videos maestro, thank you so much. I am refurbishing an old violin that had 2 open warped (beyond the top edge) ribs either side of the tail pin, so far I've taken the top off and removed the end block as it was cracked, loosened the ribs and trimmed them so they sit properly again the top needs some cracks repaired but I can already see it is not going to fit back on properly, it will have too much edge . Is this because the ribs have been shortened or that when the top is removed it flattens out and needs to be put back on with a bit of tension to bend the top enough to sit on with less edge showing. Do you have any videos showing this type of issue please.
Thank you Maestro! This is very impressive! I had a similarly damaged violin recently, and it makes me feel a lot better knowing that you also performed such a repair using white glue (as I did)!
He didn't use white glue to glue the belly back on though & used hide glue instead as it needs to be removeable. With him using white at all is controversial amongst luthiers.
Very lucky for the client that they managed to save all of the small pieces! A beautiful repair job as usual, Maestro. The text is also very pretty. Is it typical to have a signature separate from the label on the top like that, or were the parts perhaps made by different people/at different times?
I think that the ;abel is fake and that the instrument was made by the person ho wrote his name with pencil inside in 1870! That is long before RUclips!
I know of a new bide who wanted to do something for her husband, so she varnished his very old violin. He did not get mad. He explained why it was not a good idea to varnish a violin and then scrapped it off.
Applause. The 0.5 mm plywood enforcements is a good idea. Did you take a note of the weight of the plywood chips by chance? As for the writing it says as far as I can decypher: Joseph Sie.... ........ ........ Mittenwald 1871(?) Do you have a high resolution photo of the writing?
I'm very keen on using this plywood. I didn't weight the pieces. A piece of 12x8cm weighs about 4gr so I thing that all the pieces together were les that 0,5gr. This is the text that I also figured. I have no other picture of it.
Here in New York City watching 12:36 a.m. Thursday May 12th Thank you for the repair lesson I have a broken violin I wish I had your wisdom to repair it.
Hello teacher, I really like your signs, but this I do not agree with the glue used, in my opinion you must use hot tail Remember that if this instrument is submitted to a prophecional expert due to the repair made, it will be necessary or lose value or restore again
@@maestrokimon Yes, & I don't agree with it. I still think all repairs should be done with hide glue. No glue repair join can be considered 'permanent'. Also white glue is flexible compared to hide glue that can be removed with warm water, unlike white glue that can creep over time & can't be removed just with warm water. Keep your white glue for furniture (not valuable antique though).
@@nickiemcnichols5397 Super glue for ebony fingerboard repairs is OK, & so is bow repairs for glueing tips etc., & can be used for crack & graft repairs as it can be undone with heat & acetone, (although a fine valuable bow should still be done with hide glue for a crack, particularly for longer working time) which is fine for bow wood, since a bow is finished with French polish. White glue should only used be for a leather grip etc on a bow.
It's funny if you notice that the violin hanging on the back in the beginning of the video has only the grounding varnish and in the end it is almost completely varnished. 😊
I have seen this fellow's videos in the past, and I recommend his methods if you want to permanently destroy an instrument and basically render it unfixable in the future.
All this work and it would have taken 2 minutes to put peg paste so they don't squeak, making the violinist's life easier. Would that have taken the bill to exalted height in putting in this little effort? Otherwise great work.
I noticed that the pegs needed some past and applied it after filming and of course I didn't charge for this. But why do you have to leave such a cynical comment? Can't you say what you think in a polite way?
@@maestrokimon I apologise, I didn't mean to be disrespectful as I appreciate your work immensely. I just found it odd that a maestro of your calibre didn't mention that the pegs needed fixing.
@@kyproset It's a bit much expecting every little detail to be filmed. He showed a majority of the work done, the essential reason for the repair, that is, the smashed belly repair (I don't agree with using white glue though). When doing work on a client's instrument I don't write an essay on the repair work to every bit of detail as some things are seen & attended to, just like putting a little peg paste on a sticky peg when the work was primarily something else. I may see there is something I can repair in the case etc too without writing it down & charging for it etc. In fact I often add up my time & then discount anyhow, because I care about the end the result.
@@rossthefiddler5890 It's also a bit much to believe that he did anything about the pegs later on. The tailpiece is cheap, four fine tuners. It was, at best, simply put back to the way it was.
Guys, don't take everything so seriously. These videos are for entertainment purposes and are not a complete report of what I do. This instrument is not of high value (as you may have noticed it is even been poorly revarnished in the past), maybe not even worth this repair, that I did more for the video. It is a beginner instrument. The Wittner tailpiece that went back on it is a perfect solution for this kind of violins.
Maestro, I wonder if you have seen the maestronet thread recently that had heavily critical things to say about your use of synthetic glue. The issue, as I understand it, is that synthetic glue tends to “creep” over time. And also that once this happens, a joint made with synthetic glue will be more difficult to work on again.
I say this with the ultimate humility, as I don’t have enough experience to judge this for myself. But I thought you should be aware of what others are saying.
All the best,
A big fan of your work.
No I haven't. Can you send me a link?
I was an active member on MN long ago, and would agree with concerns over the use of synthetic glue. We cannot assume that a synthetic glue repair is permanent, and that it never needs to be undone based on where the repair is being executed on the instrument.
We can debate the idea that synthetic glue creeps, but it certainly penetrates, hardens and is water resistant. This sounds good to some, but is a pain in the butt for others. I just worked on a violin that was repaired using synthetic glue (saddle - bass bar crack, spruce top), and the repair cracked open on the summer growth. I had to remove an entire section of summer growth to get a glue-able surface. The instrument was not terribly valuable, but it would have been nice for the previous person to think of me. Use proper techniques.
I also noticed that on this channel a neck/button repair was done using some unorthodox methods. There was bad information given concerning the term "doubling." Everyone has their own methods, but in general, repairs should not change a violin's basic construction. Don't create unexpected pitfalls for the next person.
A wonderful transformation. Using white glue makes a lot of sense, this is one join you never want to come apart again.
Thank you!
But it may have to come apart again if the joint starts to fail - we don't know how a synthetic glue will react after decades. A synthetic glue joint that needs to be redone is problematic because the glue penetrates the wood and will never be completely removable. HHG is what was used when the instrument was built and the HHG joints are reversible no matter how old the instrument is.
Tu non sei un Maestro, sei un vero Mago! Un Chirurgo specializzato!
Congratulations!
Grazie mille Marco! Molto gentile!
Μπράβο φίλε μου είσαι πολύ καλός μάστορας. και χαίρομαι που χρησιμοποιείς αυτή την κόλλα κολλάει καλύτερα. Φτιάχνω και εγώ μουσικά όργανα και ξέρω!!!
??? @@mixalisandreadakis8383
C'est vraiment formidable! Merci Monsieur
Thx for sharing. I have a 1965 Martin Guitar that fell of a person carrying on a motorcycle and have been waiting for the expertise to do the job. I am inspired to commence the project.
Good to hear! All the best with your guitar!
will the tonal qualities of the instrument have been affected?
Amazing to save her life! Thank you very much for your sharing!
Good to hear that you like it! Thank you!
Quite nice. I am repairing one as well this week and it was good to see how you work.
Good job
Thank you for this wonderful video. Do you know if there is research into how well PVA glue holds up over long periods of time? Some violins survive from the 17 century with the original glue. I'm not questioning your glue choices, I'm just curious.
Muito bom o seu vídeos amigo, estou aprendendo muito contigo!!! Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho!!!
I love your videos maestro, thank you so much.
I am refurbishing an old violin that had 2 open warped (beyond the top edge) ribs either side of the tail pin, so far I've taken the top off and removed the end block as it was cracked, loosened the ribs and trimmed them so they sit properly again the top needs some cracks repaired but I can already see it is not going to fit back on properly, it will have too much edge . Is this because the ribs have been shortened or that when the top is removed it flattens out and needs to be put back on with a bit of tension to bend the top enough to sit on with less edge showing. Do you have any videos showing this type of issue please.
Muito bom trabalho gostei curto muito
Thank you Maestro! This is very impressive! I had a similarly damaged violin recently, and it makes me feel a lot better knowing that you also performed such a repair using white glue (as I did)!
He didn't use white glue to glue the belly back on though & used hide glue instead as it needs to be removeable. With him using white at all is controversial amongst luthiers.
Very lucky for the client that they managed to save all of the small pieces! A beautiful repair job as usual, Maestro. The text is also very pretty. Is it typical to have a signature separate from the label on the top like that, or were the parts perhaps made by different people/at different times?
I think that the ;abel is fake and that the instrument was made by the person ho wrote his name with pencil inside in 1870! That is long before RUclips!
great to save an antique violin. i have several very old violins with old repare marks. for use i like modern instruments only ...
Very good demo. Thank you 👍
What kind of glue is this white glue you use?
I'm keen on TiteBond glue.
Smashing repair!
Haha! Thank you!
Show us how yo retouch varnish restoration maestro. Thanks
brilliant as usual. I agree with the white glue theory, and specially the multiplex ;) these are love
did you do any gap filling and varnish touch up or was it not worth the trouble?
I had to fill some small gaps. I didn't put to much effort as the original varnish is also removed.
@@maestrokimon Understandable! what do you use to fill gaps?
Amazing
Thank you!
nice job!
Thank you!
I know of a new bide who wanted to do something for her husband, so she varnished his very old violin. He did not get mad. He explained why it was not a good idea to varnish a violin and then scrapped it off.
Applause.
The 0.5 mm plywood enforcements is a good idea. Did you take a note of the weight of the plywood chips by chance?
As for the writing it says as far as I can decypher:
Joseph Sie....
........ ........
Mittenwald 1871(?)
Do you have a high resolution photo of the writing?
I'm very keen on using this plywood. I didn't weight the pieces. A piece of 12x8cm weighs about 4gr so I thing that all the pieces together were les that 0,5gr.
This is the text that I also figured. I have no other picture of it.
Don't sit down on a bow .either , ...... is nt Tite bond in conjunction with a clamp. >>>>wonderful !
Hi maestro kimon already Subscribed to your Channel
I would have used Titebond ORIGINAL only and it is way stronger and better than hyde glue and can still be easily undone with heat.
a 6 tons elephant sits on my Gioffredo Cappa 😂😂🐘🎻.....looool
I love it!!!
Good to hear!
You are hilarious, it is not comfortable way to sit on it😂
I definitely isn't!!!
Here in New York City watching 12:36 a.m. Thursday May 12th Thank you for the repair lesson I have a broken violin I wish I had your wisdom to repair it.
Thank you so much for your kind words!
0:12 slight problem 🤣🤣🤣
Mittenwald 1970 Joseph Rieger
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I did sit in my Violin but luckily slight, very slight; scratches
You are very lucky. Not for sitting on the violin but for the fact that it had only scratches!
"Joseph Kriner
G??? in
Mittenwald 1870"
My best guess.
That is what I think also!
Hello teacher, I really like your signs, but this I do not agree with the glue used, in my opinion you must use hot tail
Remember that if this instrument is submitted to a prophecional expert due to the repair made, it will be necessary or lose value or restore again
It all came together nicely, but a shame you're still using white glue though.
Did you see the video where I explain why?
@@maestrokimon Yes, & I don't agree with it. I still think all repairs should be done with hide glue. No glue repair join can be considered 'permanent'. Also white glue is flexible compared to hide glue that can be removed with warm water, unlike white glue that can creep over time & can't be removed just with warm water.
Keep your white glue for furniture (not valuable antique though).
@@rossthefiddler5890this is nothing. I’ve seen a very experienced luthier use super glue!
@@nickiemcnichols5397 Super glue for ebony fingerboard repairs is OK, & so is bow repairs for glueing tips etc., & can be used for crack & graft repairs as it can be undone with heat & acetone, (although a fine valuable bow should still be done with hide glue for a crack, particularly for longer working time) which is fine for bow wood, since a bow is finished with French polish. White glue should only used be for a leather grip etc on a bow.
first thing violin, viola, and cello teachers tell young kids - NEVER put your instrument on a seat!!!
It's funny if you notice that the violin hanging on the back in the beginning of the video has only the grounding varnish and in the end it is almost completely varnished. 😊
I noticed four shirt changes and he needs another manny.
Haha! That is true! I filmed this video in 2 months! Sometimes I have to stop with a video to do other things!
Why not just put on a new top?
I don't care about what a violin looks like. I buy a violin for it's tone.
hello
Hi!
Hello, I have an idea for a movie. Buy a violin from China, unfinished, and regrind it.
I have seen this fellow's videos in the past, and I recommend his methods if you want to permanently destroy an instrument and basically render it unfixable in the future.
Good to hear!
All this work and it would have taken 2 minutes to put peg paste so they don't squeak, making the violinist's life easier. Would that have taken the bill to exalted height in putting in this little effort? Otherwise great work.
I noticed that the pegs needed some past and applied it after filming and of course I didn't charge for this. But why do you have to leave such a cynical comment? Can't you say what you think in a polite way?
@@maestrokimon I apologise, I didn't mean to be disrespectful as I appreciate your work immensely. I just found it odd that a maestro of your calibre didn't mention that the pegs needed fixing.
@@kyproset It's a bit much expecting every little detail to be filmed. He showed a majority of the work done, the essential reason for the repair, that is, the smashed belly repair (I don't agree with using white glue though). When doing work on a client's instrument I don't write an essay on the repair work to every bit of detail as some things are seen & attended to, just like putting a little peg paste on a sticky peg when the work was primarily something else. I may see there is something I can repair in the case etc too without writing it down & charging for it etc. In fact I often add up my time & then discount anyhow, because I care about the end the result.
@@rossthefiddler5890 It's also a bit much to believe that he did anything about the pegs later on. The tailpiece is cheap, four fine tuners. It was, at best, simply put back to the way it was.
Guys, don't take everything so seriously. These videos are for entertainment purposes and are not a complete report of what I do. This instrument is not of high value (as you may have noticed it is even been poorly revarnished in the past), maybe not even worth this repair, that I did more for the video. It is a beginner instrument. The Wittner tailpiece that went back on it is a perfect solution for this kind of violins.