16 years old and just did an entire timing job with phasers and everything it’s runs good thank you Brian for describing everything very well your videos were super helpful watched the 4 part series. If you watch his videos anyone can do it
Thank you for all the great videos. I used your 4 part series to repair my truck that sounded like a loud diesel. I found a seized roller follower on the #7 exhaust valve. It chewed up the cam on my 04. You gave me the confidence to go deep in this motor with your excellent video series. If it wasnt for you this truck would have met the scrap heap but instead its ready for another 100k. Thanks again and keep them coming.
You sir are the best! Ford not so much, still cursing at the lack of engineering on this 07 f150 Lariat. I have been driving it for a year and I would joke that the truck was a diesel hybrid to my passengers because of the way it ran after warm up...as soon as you drove over 1000 rpm then came to a slow down or stop the rpm would drop out and make the diesel chattering sound. When you increased rpm the engine would right it self. The truck ran great on the hi-way just a pain in town. VCT solenoids suspected. Finally tackled the job. Dropping the oil pan is not so simple, as well as the valve covers..oh my! I did the exhaust manifolds while I was at it, what a crazy job. No space on passenger side as I had (2) broken studs (Back and front of eng.) to remove and 1 on driver side. These were broken before working on them...thanks Ford. Had to remove starter and a/c comp. to get access to back broken stud & passenger manifold out. After disconnecting steering for access had to grind out and retapp driver side broken exhaust stud at the back (closest to firewall) after 2 extractor s broke and 2 drill bits broke in hole. Tough angle to get drill into! Die grinder...yes...very time consuming. The timing guide failed on passenger side. The mechanism of failure was the spring tensioners gasket failed on both Gaskets, after removal clearly pushed out and visual oil tracking on the head is visible, causing chains to loose tension and over time wearing against tensioners to the point of failure. Chewed up the passenger side real good. The chewed up plastic then restricted the oil pump intake causing low oil pressure. Thankfully this occurred in my drive way! Changed VCT solenoids, Timing chains, sprocket, tensioners, guides, oil pump, water pump etc. The Cam phaser appeared to be in good shape... changed with new bolts though. Thanks again for all your clear and concise help.
Tim Ferguson Good day. Is it possible to change hydrants from plastic to an iron explorer 4.6L 2007 goda.i why the chain rattles on the warmed-up engine
Hey, First I want to compliment you on the detail in your videos and for taking the time to put them together and help out us DIY auto guys . I have worked in the Nuclear Industry for the past 35 years . Most of that as a pipe Welder and Machinist until I got old and tired and recently started Supervising . Since my first car I have done most of my own work ( except tranny rebuilds lol ) man has to know his limits . But as the years have gone on the complexity of most work other than routine maintenance has gotten tougher on us DIYers . Thank God for RUclips and those like you . Now for the question I have watched this video as well as your cam phaser change out video . And I am a little confused ( easily done ) In the vid on the phasers you show the crank key or spoke at 12 o clock then once the rockers are removed from the 1,4,5 and 8 cylinders you rotate to the 6 o clock position for the cam phaser change out keeping the cams in a neutral position. On this vid you show the keyway at the 11 o clock position which puts the timing mark on the sprocket at exactly 6 o clock ( I notice your cam bearing caps are lose) so all the valves should be unable to open .I am assuming that even if they were tight and the proper rockers were removed the cams they would still be neutral ? I am doing the Phasers as well as all timing chains adjusters ext. which process should I use ? Thanks again for all of your videos . They have been the best ones on RUclips that I have seen dealing with these 5.4s
Kenny Hall I noticed the same thing what did you figure out on that I mean which process did you end up going with the 12 o’clock 11 o’clock or 6 o’clock position I’m doing the phasers and whole oil pump and timing chain replacement to
To install the followers... just install the ones where the lobe is at base circle then rotate crankshaft and istall the rest of the followers? Then after all done rotate crankshaft again in the position it was originally?
Do not buy timing sets from car ID also they're the same b******* garbage phasers take it from a guy who's having to do this twice trust me you do not want to have to do it twice unless of course you're some type of masochist
I just had this done and my engine guy said that I had less than 20 miles until shit was to come apart glad i saw these videos and got all that done with the right parts.
BE SURE YOU LINE UP TO THE CORRECT TIMING MARKS ON THE PHASERS!!! After spending 30 hours this weekend doing timing chains, oil pump, lash adjusters, rockers, cam phaser lockout, and more, my truck ran really rough, and threw a P0345 code. I went back through my pictures of the job (always a good idea to take lots of pictures), and noticed that I lined up the LH phaser is lined up to the "R" mark, not the little dot opposite the "R". This is telling the PCM that the phaser is 180 degress out of phase from where it should be, and of course the ignition/fuel timing is therefore WAYYY off. DONT MAKE THIS STUPID MISTAKE LIKE ME!!!
For the record, I did the same thing. Only difference is I looked at my pictures before buttoning her back up. My stomach sank when I started thinking about the correct compression / exhaust stroke for cylinder #1 at TDC. So I took my search to the forums and that really made things confusing. After a good amount of research, watching Brian's videos, and reading his comments some learning occurred. Essentially the cams create the compression / ehaust stroke not the crankshaft. Moral of the story, I took all the roller followers back out and I'm the process of re-timing with the crank at the 11 o'clock using the tool. Like the old saying goes, "Measure twice cut once!" Not fun doing the roller followers twice but I've always learned things the hard way.
In the video, you said to remove all rollers and lock down the cams in the proper position. What do you mean the proper position, and when do you remove the rollers. If the timing is off, and I put the crankshaft at 6:00 position, then how do I move the cams to the right position with the cams locked. Hope this makes sense to you. I am trying this for the first time.
Awesome video!!! I've been looking all over for some guidance on the engine timing for my F-150 that i'm about about to do a complete timing system replacement on. You just saved my ass a lot of time and effort! Thanks
Just wanted to post a quick thanks for this and all your other vids! Very informative! I just got done redoing the entire timing/valve train assembly component replacement on my 06 f150. Now it runs like it was brand new. I am a pretty mechanical hands on guy and i prefer DIY when it comes to all my vehicle projects, however with out your vids on the timing i would have been lost. You helped me save thousands in cost by taking the time to make these vids for all us with a class 1-A shade tree mechanic license. Being that I am a single income family man supporting 3, DIY is pretty much my only option. Thanks Man!!!! Keep'em coming!!
THanks a million for this, I bought the kit you recommended, and am about to attempt this soon. Only question I have now is regarding the sump gasket, did this engine leak from the corner where the sump, block and timing cover meet? If not, how did you get around it, plaster a heap fo gasket maker in there or get a new sump gasket? THanks in advance!
A dab of gasket sealant in that corner, both sides where the block meets the heads, and the corner where the head, timing cover and valve cover meet. I'm in the process now and am going to put a thin bead of sealant all along the exposed oil pan gasket with a little extra in the corners.
Great vid. It helped a lot until I went to put the chains new chains on. With the crank sprocket @ 6:00 the left side fit in between the 2 black links as should be. The right side was to the left of the black links by 3-4 teeth. Can I just turn the cam phaser with chain off to turn camshaft to line up with black links. No followers removed. The camshaft lobes might flip over to line up. Is that a problem? Thanks for all of your vids.
FordTechMakuloco thanks for sharing this video I was really getting stressed out about timing this motor I could not figure out those cam timing marks until I watched this video now that I understand the concept now it all makes sense and is really pretty simple lol thanks
I have a 2004 expedition 4.6. the timing chain guides broke into a lot of pieces. I replaced the guides and tensioners,with the help of this video. thanks. I did not change the chains though. I did drop the oil pan and clean the pick up tube filter and the pan from all the plastic pieces from the guides that broke. got it all put back together and it's still making a noise. did the chain jump a tooth and it's out of time now? is my engine ruined? bent valves possibly?
How you doing man i have a question I'm replacing the timing chain on my 2005 f150 5.4 3v and i was watching your video u were showing that on the driver s side it has the L shape and the other side has the R but on my truck i have the L on both sides what should i do .
Manuel Perez I have a 06 with 85 k miles Engine runs nice but I hear what sounds like a chain rattle possibly when I’m tapping the gas and parking and moving very slow Any experience ?
Thanks buddy, im also puttin new timing chains on, and the new ford oes com with colored links rite so its just a matter of lining the colored links on the phaser, and bottom crank rite, then its good to go rite? Thanks for all your help boss too
Have a question I did mine on a 04 model and done everything chain phasers and all and now mine is going straight into limo mode after I start it and touch the gas pedal any ideas on what I've got going on
Regarding getting it at top dead center, don't you have to make sure that you're on the compression stroke first? Like, if you follow these directions without making sure that you're at TDC, wouldn't you be 180 degrees off??
@@FordTechMakuloco Omg guys!!! He replied to me!!! I'm framing this. F.r. though, thanks. Lost timing when changing a phaser. So I just remove the roller followers then follow this procedure and I'm good??
I Love your videos!! Thanks to you, Im learning at the speed of Light about my truck, engines, timing, all of it! Thanks to *your* spark plug video, I got my #4 and #8 plugs out (especially #8) because they had the *exact* same issue you covered in your video with the Lisle tool. Just want to say a Huge *THANK YOU* and keep em coming!! You earned my subscription back before I started the plugs, and if I could subscribe again I would!!
Working on a 4.6 3v. Looks like the chain is a different size because it is one colored link on each end. My question is that the manuals say the driver side cam sprocket timing mark should be at the 12 o'clock when setting it up. With the colored link on the crank mark at 6 and the other colored link on the cam sprocket mark, the cam mark is at the 12:30-12:45 position, and not the 12 position. Mine looks similar to yours in the video. Just a little to the right of 12. This of course is with zero slack on the bottom of the chain. Is this okay, or am I missing something?
Just subscribed. Great work! Very Professional! I work in the mechanic field myself. The Bosch is part of my arsenal. You may consider adding the craftsman 90 degree rechargeable tool as well. between that and the bosch ur flying without dragging air lines :)
I’m an Audi tech, and I’m so glad I’ve never had to touch those pos fords. Audis are so much easier and enjoyable to work on. I’m saying this with full sincerity. People think Audis are horrible and that they’re really hard to work on, they’re really not lol. They make simple engines and everything on them makes sense. Timing chains might be in the rear but that’s about the only odd thing. If you have to do chains on a 2.0 turbo you just pull the front of the car off and it’s right there. Takes 3-4 hours. And we don’t really see chains fail on any of the other engines, just guides mostly. I just completely rebuilt the 2.0 turbo 4 banger from my 2016 A4 and I rebuilt the 3.0 supercharged V6 in my 2014 SQ5 these past two weeks and they were both pretty fun jobs and nothing gave me a hard time. Biggest thing to pay attention to is using the correct special tools for the timing and making sure to pretension the cam adjusters before torquing the bolts. Everything else is simple engine stuff, cleaning takes the longest out of anything. Both cars running perfect now. Anytime I look at fords or dodges or any Asian car I feel disgusted. I work at a dealer and I don’t know why but I found myself replacing one of the 2.4L engines in a Honda Accord and I was pissed off about it because the connectors were so incredibly stupidly designed and the subframe bolt torques made absolutely no sense. Also the parts back from Honda they gave me they didn’t label any bolts and they all looked the exact same with slight differences and I was just like bruh tf is this. But yeah I did the Honda engine and then I had another accord too that I did the rear main seal and that balance shaft cover on. Those were equally as stupid. I couldn’t imagine working on anything other than Audis. I used to be a used car tech and I think front axles on an F250 were pretty easy and then I did an evap canister on a Buick Encore which was pretty easy and some work on a hellcat which was pretty straight forward. But still, I’d take Audi any day of the week. Everything simply makes sense.
Hey I have a 2006 Ford Expedition 5.4 3 valve and we redone the cam phasers , timing chain , guides and tensioner , and now it keeps coming up with a pending code for po345 and po349 and it is running lean on the driver side also . We have checked all the wiring and for vacuum leaks and can't find anything , I made sure it was timed like you said in the video , we also replaced the vct sensors both and switched the cam sensors with the other side . It has a shitty idle also and you can pull the coil plugs on drivers side and it doesn't change . Any help would be great I pulled valve cover back off and the timing marks are not lined up when we turn it over but will they line back up the marks by turning it over by hand because I have turned it over a bunch and it is in a different spot everytime on the cam phasers the two black links ?
Hi, Very informative video! I was also doing my timing chain replacement in the same Engine, while doing it i lost my Timing, so after watching this video what i learned like if i move the crank shaft to 6 o clock position without rollers & chain on the engine , it will come to neutral position then i have to reposition the crank shaft as described in-the video by using the reposition tool to 11 o clock then install the chain according to mark. Was it correct?
This is very helpful. I'm putting some new heads on a 5.4 2V. The previous owner had it blow out a spark plug. Rather than repair it with a insert he decided to jb weld the plug in. It's getting new head gaskets, new head bolts, chains, tensioners, and guides. Is there anything else I should replace while i'm in there? Also when torquing the head bolts the last step is to go to 90 degrees. Can I paint a white line on the bolt head and turn it 90 degrees, or does it need to be more precise? It's a 2001 f150 with 120,000 miles.
1captjake A white line on the head bolts is just fine that is what I use never a problem. I would do exhaust manifold gaskets while heads are off. Make sure you use the revised gaskets, and stainless hardware from Ford so they are never a problem in the future. There is not much more that I can think of except to look over all the internals very good for wear while they are on the bench. Also inspect the coolant crossover where it bolts the intake for cracks and be sure to replace those gaskets as well. Now is the time for a new thermostat and gasket also. Besides that not much goes wrong on these.
Great video , Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge. I have a question on my 05 expedition 5.4 ,3 v. My cam phasers both are L,s. Should the right bank be timed by the opposing 180 degree mark?
I'm a little confused, the crank makes a 720 degree rotation for a complete Intake/Exhaust cycle. With the crank sprocket woodruff key at the 11 oclock position, how do I know it's not 360 degrees out of alignment?
'06' Expedition 5.4 3v. I had a mechanic who jacked up a plug and had to remove the head on the drivers side. Head was repaired and left on block. The mechanic has since disappeared so now i have to do it myself it seems. This instruction video makes it look so simple that it is hard to believe. My question is what relationship is TDC on #1 in relation to setting the timing? And to be clear my engine is stripped to the front of the block so no pulleys are installed right now. Thanks
+richard porter I have never checked the positioning of #1 tdc while doing this the important part is the position of the keyway everything else falls into place.
All these videos on 5.4L 3 valve and nobody mentions CRANKshaft position sensor. You may as well throw the camshafts in the sewer if you're not going to be in harmony with the cranshaft and it's a $34 part for Motorcraft genuine part from Rock Auto. WTF dog come on! This took 25 years off my life because everyone screams camshaft camshaft camshaft. I wonder how many people throw away vehicles because they gave up not knowing about the crankshaft position sensor. I do love your videos and you're the first person I look to for 5.4L advice. Keep up the good work. I hope you're making bank on these millions of views.
@@FordTechMakuloco I had a fan belt (serp belt) failure while on the road over in Miami. A loose strand hanging off whipped through the harness going to the VCT solenoids & position sensors. Bought all 4 parts, reworked the harnesses and all was great, for about 2 years. Then it began backfiring, really bad, on startup but ran fine once it was running. Checked all harness under the hood and no lingering damage from the serp belt event. Then I turned on a video by Ford and first thing the man says is "These camshaft position sensors work in coordination with the crankshaft sensor and my head about exploded. Replaced the crank position sensor and it's like a brand new motor. I had already called the junkyard about bringing in the truck and the title. Now I have my truck back and it cost me $34.
A brief question if you don't mind. My new OEM phasers just came in. One of them has 2 of the reluctor tangs bent down, and there's a slight wobble in the reluctor plate (2 of the 3 pins are loose). I wonder if it's a big deal since the tangs can be bent back up, and the phaser bolt will compress the reluctor against the phaser, and against the cam - It looks like someone on the factory line dropped it. There aren't any other looseness issues, rotationally or otherwise. Looking for your thoughts - Thanks also for your clear and concise video's. I do appreciate them.
I have a 2010 F-150 with the 5.4. I have noticed a chattering noise when I give it throttle an than take my foot off the gas, as the RPMs drop, I'm assuming it's the timing chain tensioner not keeping tension, allowing the chain to be loose. Is that common on the 5.4?
FordTechMakuloco, I have a 2009 5.4 3V F150, with 159,000 miles. At high acceleration it loses power slightly, then runs normal again (as if nothing is wrong). After speaking with a diagnostics tech, he suggested the VCT solenoids may have begin to stick based on the mileage. After watching several of your videos (on VCT and other components) I decided to replace the VCT solenoids, Camshaft Phaser Sensor, Timing Chains along with a HV Oil Pump. I purchase all Ford Motorcraft OEM parts (except oil pump/Melling), with the intention of having my local Ford Dealer doing the labor. YES I know the labor $$$$ is a killer, however, I was informed by the service manager/dealer that I would ruin my engine by putting in the new parts (specifically the oil pump would be to powerful and ruin parts that were not swapped). My question, have you experienced or heard of anyone ruining the engine by CORRECTLY replacing the Timing chain and Cam Phasers as outlined in your videos? Thanks for any information you or anyone else may provide.
Hey this is very helpful information you walked thru it nicely. One question you said i have to remove all the rocker arms? then when i put the chain on and release the tensioners i put them back in right? like i gotta pry them in a lil correct?
My buddy took his chain off before setting it in the 6 o clock position do I just turn the crank to the six o clock position and then follow the rest of the information in the video
Great video. Very informative. When using you impact gun to tighten nuts/bolts down (especially ones that need a specific torque value) how do you ensure it doesn't over torque the nut/bolt?
Pet Rock's Garage I have a feel for my tools over the years that feather touch take awhile to learn but saves tons of time by snugging up bolts just right and torqueing from there. Like in this video like on the trigger and the rattle from the impact perfect then just a short swing of the torque wrench and you are done. We used to have out arms gauged in the military tightening the lug nuts on the Humvee wheels, QC didn't believe us until they busted out the torque wrench to check our work. You just know after awhile.
I've said this before. This man is a master what's Ford modular motors, great mechanic he was in my he would do my stuff if I had enough money where I don't have to do it myself
Thanks for all your helpful videos. I’m replacing all timing components on the same engine, and in the process I took apart the vct solenoid body to clean all passages and the little filter inside. This filter is held down by a head-less Ellen bolt. Do I need to seal the thread of this bolt or install it clean? If yes, what sealer would you use? Same question for the other smaller bolt on the vct body. I’m asking because I think these bolts are supposed to prevent oil flow through them, which might compromise the oil pressure going to the tensioner.
Hey just a question do you have to have number 1 piston on top dead center to do this. Might sound dumb but just curious because im about to do this. Thanks in advance.
Hi Great video. I have a dumb question. Is it possible to get the timing of by 180 degrees? I am about to try this on my daughters truck for the first time. Just worried about getting the camshaft off by 180.
Can the oil pump be removed and replaced without dropping the oil pan. Also any idea of where to get the valve cover bolts, mine are all rusty and no socket fits them any more. Thanks
Major Smack No I just know they are part of the cover you would think dorman would be all over this as your problem is very common. I have replace and oil pump before without dropping the pan yes it was quite easy too.
Just a quick question. I know the key way should be at 6 o clock. But on what part of the rotation? Should cylinder 1 be up like top dead center. I did not follow the directions when taking the engine apart and not sure where the engine should be when the key way is down.
Think you should cover the difference between left an right side cams they are difrent, luckily I had cams right unfortunately it seems I was not T.D.C. on compression stroke instead on exhaust an marked fazers left an right opposite of what they should of been after lining marks up on chains an rotated engine couple times watching cam lobes an firing order I knew some thing wasn't right. Had hard ass time çause no one seemed to know the difference thanks to ford form couple old boys figured it out one longer than the other. may of had that right but dam sure had fazers wrong, wonder what happened when I truned the key????
I understand you can interchange ends of the timing chain with either the crank sprocket or the phaser. Regardless of the way its setup initially, will the phaser arrows on the R and L ......ALWAYS point to EITHER: the center of the single dark timing chain link, OR in between the 2 dark timing chain links? Thank you for sharing your knowledge here....it is very helpful!
Hi Ford Tech, I am just about to perform a full timing job on my 05 F250 5.4 3v. Just to make sure I am not doing anything wrong I figured I would ask an expert a few questions. Here is what I plan on doing in the exact order, crankshaft pulley sprocket at the 12 o’clock timing mark at 1 o’clock. (Correct cam lobe for position 1)? Pulling the cams and taking all the lifters out. Putting cams back in. Do I now put the key way to 6 o’clock? Removing spark plugs, removing both chains, tensioners, guides, sprockets and removing both cam phasers. Re-installing the cam phasers first, which I was nott sure if this would make a difference or not. Following the video and putting the key way at the 11 o’clock six on the sprocket then installing my guides chains tensioners etc.. Once everything is installed putting my lifters back in one at a time rotating the engine as needed to install or will the tool allow me to install all the roller followers? Thanks for the help,
Jake Smith You want to put keyway at 12 and check the cam lobes on cylinder number 1 to make sure they appear as shown in my phaser knocking noise fix video. If not you need to rotate the crank another 360. Once those 3 roller followers are out each side then you can rotate the crank clockwise to the 6 oclock position. Replace your timing components tensioners guides etc and remove all followers now position the crank clockwise till the sprocket timing dot is at the 6 oclock position and time the engine as shown in this video.
+FordTechMakuloco I have a 05 F150 with 5.4L. I bought brand new Ford 5.4L 3V engine zero mileage in Tucson, AZ only $2,000 lowest price instead Ford Dealer cost like $5,000! I installed new 5.4L on my truck at 196,000 , now so fsr it has 47,000 miles on my F150 250,000 miles without problems so I change engine oil on time every 3,000 miles to avoid sludge that would block engine oil flow to head cylinders so no oil though to VCT and cam phasers cause tensioners get dry stuck retarded cam timing knocked. I am hoping my new 5.4L to runs longer than 160, 000 miles but my original 5.4L quit at 150,000 miles that it had too many problems with timing chains system that it knocked and noise as diesel loud so we did fix install new timing chains kit, cam phasers, cam sensors, oil pump, VCTs, and tensioners too at 164,000 miles, it was good so far but still again noise came back also knocked shake a lot while retarded cam position because of no oil on head cylinders to cam phaser also to feed oil to tensioners that I don't understand I use right kind of oil Motorcraft 5w20 and motorcraft oil filter but still problem. because of engine poor designed for oil flow are too small not enough pressure to top of engine? all my friend's 5.4L 3V quit less 150,000 miles as mine.
If you get the crank shaft and phasers correctly positioned are there other mistakes that will destroy the engine on start up? Looking to identify the points in the process that can not be corrected if startup does not go as it should. Thanks
Thank for the video, quick question. During the process of replacing my phasers and chains i rotated the crank shaft, with timing chains removed, out of position by about 1/4 inch. I'm starting from scratch on timing and was watching the video. How do I rotate the crank to get it back into position. In your other video I have the key at the top or 12 o clock position. How do I get it to the 6 o clock without damaging anything?
I'm blowing plumes of white smoke since getting on it a little in my 06 Mustang last night. Been getting a cylinder 6 misfire code, even after replacing the coil. Now I barely have enough power to move the car forward (Topped out at 40 on the way home last night, when it happened.), and this started when the engine became extremely rough idling, and making clanking sounds inside the engine (that sounded like metal playing Plinko!) Sound like this is what I need to now?
great instructions here. thanks for being so thorough. Do you know if the process is similar on the 2-valve motors? I'm about to pull the heads on my Excursion with a 2V 6.8L v10.
As I am doing this timing job I noticed that my lash adjusters don't have any "spring" to them. How much spring effect should they have? I have seen some other you tubers showing that they must have a lot of play. I have read elsewhere that they should only move max of 1/16th of an inch.
In this video i see that the bolts for the camshaft are loose, so you put all the time marks and you tighten the bolts for the camshaft or do you need a special tool to lock the camshaft and then tighten the bolts?
Eric Martinez It is a trick I do to prevent putting each follower in after timing, you just have to tighten the caps down even paying close attention to the front one.
Hi i have question I just did my timing and the truck work good but went take to drive lucks like I have only 6 cylinders and the phasers start noise and bad rough adle and die I change the vct solenoid work for little bit. Is possible the the new phaser are bad.
Is this the same on a 5.4 2v? And is there anything regarding #1 being at TDC for this to work? (I have seemed to hear that a lot). You just set the crank and use the chain to orient the cam/cam gear?
I have a 4.6L 3v mustang, I'm rebuilding the motor, first actual rebuild I'm doing. I've worked with the 3v before and messed up the timing. Is this all you have to do?? Many people have told me to make sure I have the pistons in the right location+key on the crankshaft. Something that has to do with the normal stroke and power stroke. I ended up with low compression last time. Could you help explain why a bad timing job would give me low compression, and if the pistons have to be in a certain orientation for allighnment with a normal stroke and power stroke?
Hey Brian what is the correct procedure if I were to be replacing the chain tensioners and nothing else? Can the engine go out of timing when removing the tensioners?
If you were changing the cam phaser them self during this process when would you do so? I watched your other video on how to change the cam phaser. Would you have to do all this than reinstall the timing cover so you can turn the crank and remove the roller followers as shown in your other video? Than change the cam phaser?
+brad carchidi If you had the engine this far apart for a timing chain job or head job the phasers could be changed anytime after the timing chains were removed. Of course in order to do either of these jobs all the roller folllowers would already be out to prevent bent valves.
Hey FORDTECH do you absolutely have to take the valves loose to be able to get cams in correct position because I can move the cam with a little force 4 inches either way and get it to where its just about to roll over and get the chain on
Excellent videos, Thanks for the tutorials. I have a p0021 code on my 2006 ford Expo 5.4L3v. I replaced both vtc solenoids; erase the code, engine runs nice but 5 minutes after driving the code comes back on and starts idling rough again and feels like its missing every no and then. What are your thoughts on why the code comes back?
+Steve Willsey Unplug the vct solenoid on bank 2 which is the drivers side. Go for a drive and see if the concern and codes still exist then you will know if the concern is mechanical or not.
+FordTechMakuloco light came on. Noisier on passenger than driver. I was at the ford parts counter asking for plugs and the ford mech next to me asks if I know how to swap them out. We got into discussing the p0021 code and he gave me an ear full. he just did a $2500 timing job on a 3valve. I'm guessing I might need to do all the timing parts as I intend to keep this 112k King Ranch (it's nice) vehicle till 200k or just sell it now, as is and move on. In your opinion, would you fix and keep or sell?
+FordTechMakuloco thanks for you opinion. I was thinking Of going to do the plugs and phasers. I'll give an update when I'm finished. Hopefully the engine light goes off.
+Steve Willsey After taking off the valve covers, I can see that the passenger side chain guide is broken. What are your thoughts on just replacing the guides and tensioners? I'm already replacing the Camshaft Position Sensors on both sides. 115K miles on Expo.
Yes I use the otc tool to line it up camshafts was locked Done in correct position I have two other techs check and they also approved it. But I'm check compression tight now to see if I bent any vales.
Nice :) thanks for the walk thru, so, what are the phasers for? adjust timing? why do they make so much racket, I was told they don't get a good oil supply and replacing them only masks the issue, the real issue is a weak oil pump?
Quick question. If the motor was timed with the chain lined up on the L on both right and left side, will this not warp a valve or two? I am helping a friend who tried to do it himself and he didn't "see" the R on the right side, so he lined it up on the L the same as the Left side. Just asking so I know whether to pull the heads for a new valve job or set it and go. Truck would start and idle, but wouldn't move out of its tracks. Thanks
Ralph Clifton At that point the timing would be 180 off on the right cam and most likely caused a valve to hit the piston yes. Anything over 2 teeth off likely caused valve damage.
16 years old and just did an entire timing job with phasers and everything it’s runs good thank you Brian for describing everything very well your videos were super helpful watched the 4 part series. If you watch his videos anyone can do it
That’s awesome dude
Good job man!
Thats what up bro keep it up!!!
@@daddybear7062 kmmm&umimmo]
I’m about to give it a go my self if you did it I can
I have never owned a Ford pickup truck that I love watching this mechanic work!❤
Slow paced, informative, and no cuts. Excellent video
Once again, this is like watching a crime being solved. Assuring that every little thing has been 100% perfectly installed. No false convictions here.
I forgot to mention these videos are top notch. And great info for anyone servicing these engines. Couldn’t have done it without these videos.
This guy is awesome. He does a wonderful job explaining what to do. He includes torque specs, which come in handy. I look forward to future videos.
Thank you for all the great videos. I used your 4 part series to repair my truck that sounded like a loud diesel. I found a seized roller follower on the #7 exhaust valve. It chewed up the cam on my 04. You gave me the confidence to go deep in this motor with your excellent video series. If it wasnt for you this truck would have met the scrap heap but instead its ready for another 100k. Thanks again and keep them coming.
How is she doing?
Any updates on her
You sir are the best! Ford not so much, still cursing at the lack of engineering on this 07 f150 Lariat. I have been driving it for a year and I would joke that the truck was a diesel hybrid to my passengers because of the way it ran after warm up...as soon as you drove over 1000 rpm then came to a slow down or stop the rpm would drop out and make the diesel chattering sound. When you increased rpm the engine would right it self. The truck ran great on the hi-way just a pain in town. VCT solenoids suspected.
Finally tackled the job.
Dropping the oil pan is not so simple, as well as the valve covers..oh my! I did the exhaust manifolds while I was at it, what a crazy job. No space on passenger side as I had (2) broken studs (Back and front of eng.) to remove and 1 on driver side. These were broken before working on them...thanks Ford. Had to remove starter and a/c comp. to get access to back broken stud & passenger manifold out. After disconnecting steering for access had to grind out and retapp driver side broken exhaust stud at the back (closest to firewall) after 2 extractor s broke and 2 drill bits broke in hole. Tough angle to get drill into! Die grinder...yes...very time consuming.
The timing guide failed on passenger side. The mechanism of failure was the spring tensioners gasket failed on both Gaskets, after removal clearly pushed out and visual oil tracking on the head is visible, causing chains to loose tension and over time wearing against tensioners to the point of failure. Chewed up the passenger side real good. The chewed up plastic then restricted the oil pump intake causing low oil pressure. Thankfully this occurred in my drive way!
Changed VCT solenoids, Timing chains, sprocket, tensioners, guides, oil pump, water pump etc. The Cam phaser appeared to be in good shape... changed with new bolts though. Thanks again for all your clear and concise help.
Tim Ferguson Good day. Is it possible to change hydrants from plastic to an iron explorer 4.6L 2007 goda.i why the chain rattles on the warmed-up engine
Hey, First I want to compliment you on the detail in your videos and for taking the time to put them together and help out us DIY auto guys . I have worked in the Nuclear Industry for the past 35 years . Most of that as a pipe Welder and Machinist until I got old and tired and recently started Supervising . Since my first car I have done most of my own work ( except tranny rebuilds lol ) man has to know his limits . But as the years have gone on the complexity of most work other than routine maintenance has gotten tougher on us DIYers . Thank God for RUclips and those like you . Now for the question I have watched this video as well as your cam phaser change out video . And I am a little confused ( easily done ) In the vid on the phasers you show the crank key or spoke at 12 o clock then once the rockers are removed from the 1,4,5 and 8 cylinders you rotate to the 6 o clock position for the cam phaser change out keeping the cams in a neutral position. On this vid you show the keyway at the 11 o clock position which puts the timing mark on the sprocket at exactly 6 o clock ( I notice your cam bearing caps are lose) so all the valves should be unable to open .I am assuming that even if they were tight and the proper rockers were removed the cams they would still be neutral ? I am doing the Phasers as well as all timing chains adjusters ext. which process should I use ? Thanks again for all of your videos . They have been the best ones on RUclips that I have seen dealing with these 5.4s
Kenny Hall I noticed the same thing what did you figure out on that I mean which process did you end up going with the 12 o’clock 11 o’clock or 6 o’clock position I’m doing the phasers and whole oil pump and timing chain replacement to
To install the followers... just install the ones where the lobe is at base circle then rotate crankshaft and istall the rest of the followers? Then after all done rotate crankshaft again in the position it was originally?
every owner of the 3V will eventually need to watch this video lol. thanks for the post.
Do not buy timing sets from car ID also they're the same b******* garbage phasers take it from a guy who's having to do this twice trust me you do not want to have to do it twice unless of course you're some type of masochist
CARiD will tell you that they are Ford phasers do not believe them they lie I tried them anyway big mistake
@@gene5 your first mistake was to go to CARID😂
7 years fucking later fords still doing ford things
I just had this done and my engine guy said that I had less than 20 miles until shit was to come apart glad i saw these videos and got all that done with the right parts.
Excellent video Brian. You sure make sense of the whole timing procedure. Seems so much easier now after watching this. Thanks for posting this.
Me and my son just fixed his 05 ford f150 fx4 with the 5.4 lthanks to you and your video I appreciate you doing this
BE SURE YOU LINE UP TO THE CORRECT TIMING MARKS ON THE PHASERS!!! After spending 30 hours this weekend doing timing chains, oil pump, lash adjusters, rockers, cam phaser lockout, and more, my truck ran really rough, and threw a P0345 code. I went back through my pictures of the job (always a good idea to take lots of pictures), and noticed that I lined up the LH phaser is lined up to the "R" mark, not the little dot opposite the "R". This is telling the PCM that the phaser is 180 degress out of phase from where it should be, and of course the ignition/fuel timing is therefore WAYYY off.
DONT MAKE THIS STUPID MISTAKE LIKE ME!!!
+scmike1229 True I go over this pretty well in this video and really well in my new video coming out soon to help people out.
For the record, I did the same thing. Only difference is I looked at my pictures before buttoning her back up. My stomach sank when I started thinking about the correct compression / exhaust stroke for cylinder #1 at TDC. So I took my search to the forums and that really made things confusing. After a good amount of research, watching Brian's videos, and reading his comments some learning occurred. Essentially the cams create the compression / ehaust stroke not the crankshaft. Moral of the story, I took all the roller followers back out and I'm the process of re-timing with the crank at the 11 o'clock using the tool. Like the old saying goes, "Measure twice cut once!" Not fun doing the roller followers twice but I've always learned things the hard way.
Thanks for all the help , your videos are awesome, did the phasers and timing chain , saved a lot of money. Truck runs like new!!!
How do you know that you on the right compression stroke?
My thoughts exactly
I was thinking exactly the same thing... I'm like don't you have to make sure #1 cylinder is TDC first???? 🤔
Love how to replies don't answer the question
If you don’t know the answer to that question you shouldn’t be working on it …
Its the stroke after the intake valves close, for the power stroke, watch the vlaves
In the video, you said to remove all rollers and lock down the cams in the proper position. What do you mean the proper position, and when do you remove the rollers. If the timing is off, and I put the crankshaft at 6:00 position, then how do I move the cams to the right position with the cams locked. Hope this makes sense to you. I am trying this for the first time.
Awesome video!!! I've been looking all over for some guidance on the engine timing for my F-150 that i'm about about to do a complete timing system replacement on. You just saved my ass a lot of time and effort! Thanks
Just wanted to post a quick thanks for this and all your other vids! Very informative! I just got done redoing the entire timing/valve train assembly component replacement on my 06 f150. Now it runs like it was brand new. I am a pretty mechanical hands on guy and i prefer DIY when it comes to all my vehicle projects, however with out your vids on the timing i would have been lost. You helped me save thousands in cost by taking the time to make these vids for all us with a class 1-A shade tree mechanic license. Being that I am a single income family man supporting 3, DIY is pretty much my only option. Thanks Man!!!! Keep'em coming!!
Sweet that is the kind of success stories I like to hear! Thanks for sharing.
Great video! I did this repair to my '05 this weekend. This video was was the make or break for me.
You are my mechanic Jesus. I follow your vids to the word and the job always ends up being a lot easier than I expected. Thank for your service....
THanks a million for this, I bought the kit you recommended, and am about to attempt this soon. Only question I have now is regarding the sump gasket, did this engine leak from the corner where the sump, block and timing cover meet? If not, how did you get around it, plaster a heap fo gasket maker in there or get a new sump gasket? THanks in advance!
A dab of gasket sealant in that corner, both sides where the block meets the heads, and the corner where the head, timing cover and valve cover meet.
I'm in the process now and am going to put a thin bead of sealant all along the exposed oil pan gasket with a little extra in the corners.
Great vid. It helped a lot until I went to put the chains new chains on. With the crank sprocket @ 6:00 the left side fit in between the 2 black links as should be. The right side was to the left of the black links by 3-4 teeth. Can I just turn the cam phaser with chain off to turn camshaft to line up with black links. No followers removed. The camshaft lobes might flip over to line up. Is that a problem? Thanks for all of your vids.
FordTechMakuloco thanks for sharing this video I was really getting stressed out about timing this motor I could not figure out those cam timing marks until I watched this video now that I understand the concept now it all makes sense and is really pretty simple lol thanks
How do u install roller fillers after the timing process
It it jumps just one tooth does the valves get bent? Then you have to take heads off and redo valves
No have seen these a few teeth off and no problems.
What if I use both else did I been the valves?
L,s
I have a 2004 expedition 4.6. the timing chain guides broke into a lot of pieces. I replaced the guides and tensioners,with the help of this video. thanks. I did not change the chains though. I did drop the oil pan and clean the pick up tube filter and the pan from all the plastic pieces from the guides that broke. got it all put back together and it's still making a noise. did the chain jump a tooth and it's out of time now? is my engine ruined? bent valves possibly?
How you doing man i have a question I'm replacing the timing chain on my 2005 f150 5.4 3v and i was watching your video u were showing that on the driver s side it has the L shape and the other side has the R but on my truck i have the L on both sides what should i do .
Manuel Perez Use the tooth 180 degrees from the L for the right hand side.
Manuel Perez I have a 06 with 85 k miles Engine runs nice but I hear what sounds like a chain rattle possibly when I’m tapping the gas and parking and moving very slow Any experience ?
Quick question why where you right side cam caps loose
by far the best 3v timing video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Finally a great video on this subject. Thank you. I going to do this to mine in the near future.
Thanks buddy, im also puttin new timing chains on, and the new ford oes com with colored links rite so its just a matter of lining the colored links on the phaser, and bottom crank rite, then its good to go rite? Thanks for all your help boss too
John Smickle Yes just as shown with the chain laid out the colored links should line up.
It cracks me up when someone does a thumbs down on a video like this. THAT is the way it has to be done, Period! How can you give it a thumbs down?
Have a question I did mine on a 04 model and done everything chain phasers and all and now mine is going straight into limo mode after I start it and touch the gas pedal any ideas on what I've got going on
I would love to see you do a video on a 2v 4.6!
Regarding getting it at top dead center, don't you have to make sure that you're on the compression stroke first? Like, if you follow these directions without making sure that you're at TDC, wouldn't you be 180 degrees off??
There is no compression stroke on the crankshaft side. You are setting the compression stroke when you time it not when you set the crank.
@@FordTechMakuloco Omg guys!!! He replied to me!!! I'm framing this.
F.r. though, thanks. Lost timing when changing a phaser. So I just remove the roller followers then follow this procedure and I'm good??
I Love your videos!! Thanks to you, Im learning at the speed of Light about my truck, engines, timing, all of it! Thanks to *your* spark plug video, I got my #4 and #8 plugs out (especially #8) because they had the *exact* same issue you covered in your video with the Lisle tool. Just want to say a Huge *THANK YOU* and keep em coming!! You earned my subscription back before I started the plugs, and if I could subscribe again I would!!
Michael Allen Nice!
Just remove the spark plugs ??? Or the roller follower to????
Working on a 4.6 3v. Looks like the chain is a different size because it is one colored link on each end. My question is that the manuals say the driver side cam sprocket timing mark should be at the 12 o'clock when setting it up. With the colored link on the crank mark at 6 and the other colored link on the cam sprocket mark, the cam mark is at the 12:30-12:45 position, and not the 12 position. Mine looks similar to yours in the video. Just a little to the right of 12. This of course is with zero slack on the bottom of the chain. Is this okay, or am I missing something?
Very Clear,Clean, Concise, and Complete. Thanks for posting.
Francais
Can you kinda move the cam phasers to get the chain on the right spot?
Well nvm you’re doing it in the video
Just subscribed. Great work! Very Professional! I work in the mechanic field myself. The Bosch is part of my arsenal. You may consider adding the craftsman 90 degree rechargeable tool as well. between that and the bosch ur flying without dragging air lines :)
I’m an Audi tech, and I’m so glad I’ve never had to touch those pos fords. Audis are so much easier and enjoyable to work on. I’m saying this with full sincerity. People think Audis are horrible and that they’re really hard to work on, they’re really not lol. They make simple engines and everything on them makes sense. Timing chains might be in the rear but that’s about the only odd thing. If you have to do chains on a 2.0 turbo you just pull the front of the car off and it’s right there. Takes 3-4 hours. And we don’t really see chains fail on any of the other engines, just guides mostly. I just completely rebuilt the 2.0 turbo 4 banger from my 2016 A4 and I rebuilt the 3.0 supercharged V6 in my 2014 SQ5 these past two weeks and they were both pretty fun jobs and nothing gave me a hard time. Biggest thing to pay attention to is using the correct special tools for the timing and making sure to pretension the cam adjusters before torquing the bolts. Everything else is simple engine stuff, cleaning takes the longest out of anything. Both cars running perfect now. Anytime I look at fords or dodges or any Asian car I feel disgusted. I work at a dealer and I don’t know why but I found myself replacing one of the 2.4L engines in a Honda Accord and I was pissed off about it because the connectors were so incredibly stupidly designed and the subframe bolt torques made absolutely no sense. Also the parts back from Honda they gave me they didn’t label any bolts and they all looked the exact same with slight differences and I was just like bruh tf is this. But yeah I did the Honda engine and then I had another accord too that I did the rear main seal and that balance shaft cover on. Those were equally as stupid. I couldn’t imagine working on anything other than Audis. I used to be a used car tech and I think front axles on an F250 were pretty easy and then I did an evap canister on a Buick Encore which was pretty easy and some work on a hellcat which was pretty straight forward. But still, I’d take Audi any day of the week. Everything simply makes sense.
Excellent video, very thorough and helpful with installing new cam phasers.
Hey I have a 2006 Ford Expedition 5.4 3 valve and we redone the cam phasers , timing chain , guides and tensioner , and now it keeps coming up with a pending code for po345 and po349 and it is running lean on the driver side also . We have checked all the wiring and for vacuum leaks and can't find anything , I made sure it was timed like you said in the video , we also replaced the vct sensors both and switched the cam sensors with the other side . It has a shitty idle also and you can pull the coil plugs on drivers side and it doesn't change . Any help would be great I pulled valve cover back off and the timing marks are not lined up when we turn it over but will they line back up the marks by turning it over by hand because I have turned it over a bunch and it is in a different spot everytime on the cam phasers the two black links ?
THIS MOTOR IS A NITE MAYOR ford needs to go back to the 302 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They did !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@thomasmarquez6790 True but the original 302 Coyotes were built better. Mine still runs at 316k currently.
I'm gonna need your help soon lol
Hi, Very informative video!
I was also doing my timing chain replacement in the same Engine, while doing it i lost my Timing, so after watching this video what i learned like if i move the crank shaft to 6 o clock position without rollers & chain on the engine , it will come to neutral position then i have to reposition the crank shaft as described in-the video by using the reposition tool to 11 o clock then install the chain according to mark. Was it correct?
This is very helpful. I'm putting some new heads on a 5.4 2V. The previous owner had it blow out a spark plug. Rather than repair it with a insert he decided to jb weld the plug in. It's getting new head gaskets, new head bolts, chains, tensioners, and guides. Is there anything else I should replace while i'm in there? Also when torquing the head bolts the last step is to go to 90 degrees. Can I paint a white line on the bolt head and turn it 90 degrees, or does it need to be more precise? It's a 2001 f150 with 120,000 miles.
1captjake A white line on the head bolts is just fine that is what I use never a problem. I would do exhaust manifold gaskets while heads are off. Make sure you use the revised gaskets, and stainless hardware from Ford so they are never a problem in the future. There is not much more that I can think of except to look over all the internals very good for wear while they are on the bench. Also inspect the coolant crossover where it bolts the intake for cracks and be sure to replace those gaskets as well. Now is the time for a new thermostat and gasket also. Besides that not much goes wrong on these.
Great video , Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge. I have a question on my 05 expedition 5.4 ,3 v. My cam phasers both are L,s. Should the right bank be timed by the opposing 180 degree mark?
Craig Hill Your new ones are? I am quite sure that dash you see on the other side of the phaser is the timing mark for the right hand side.
I'm a little confused, the crank makes a 720 degree rotation for a complete Intake/Exhaust cycle. With the crank sprocket woodruff key at the 11 oclock position, how do I know it's not 360 degrees out of alignment?
The cams run at half speed not the crank. The crank cannot be out of alignment.
'06' Expedition 5.4 3v. I had a mechanic who jacked up a plug and had to remove the head on the drivers side. Head was repaired and left on block. The mechanic has since disappeared so now i have to do it myself it seems. This instruction video makes it look so simple that it is hard to believe. My question is what relationship is TDC on #1 in relation to setting the timing? And to be clear my engine is stripped to the front of the block so no pulleys are installed right now. Thanks
+richard porter I have never checked the positioning of #1 tdc while doing this the important part is the position of the keyway everything else falls into place.
okay then i here i go...thanks
+richard porter When the crankshaft gear dot is at the 6 o'clock position #1 cylinder is at TDC.
All these videos on 5.4L 3 valve and nobody mentions CRANKshaft position sensor.
You may as well throw the camshafts in the sewer if you're not going to be in harmony with the cranshaft and it's a $34 part for Motorcraft genuine part from Rock Auto.
WTF dog come on!
This took 25 years off my life because everyone screams camshaft camshaft camshaft.
I wonder how many people throw away vehicles because they gave up not knowing about the crankshaft position sensor.
I do love your videos and you're the first person I look to for 5.4L advice.
Keep up the good work. I hope you're making bank on these millions of views.
Not sure what your rant is about exactly. If you are asking why I didn't change the crank sensor, well it's simple they never ever fail.
@@FordTechMakuloco I had a fan belt (serp belt) failure while on the road over in Miami. A loose strand hanging off whipped through the harness going to the VCT solenoids & position sensors. Bought all 4 parts, reworked the harnesses and all was great, for about 2 years. Then it began backfiring, really bad, on startup but ran fine once it was running. Checked all harness under the hood and no lingering damage from the serp belt event. Then I turned on a video by Ford and first thing the man says is "These camshaft position sensors work in coordination with the crankshaft sensor and my head about exploded. Replaced the crank position sensor and it's like a brand new motor. I had already called the junkyard about bringing in the truck and the title. Now I have my truck back and it cost me $34.
Nice!
@@FordTechMakuloco nice indeed. If we didn't have pain we would never know joy!
A brief question if you don't mind. My new OEM phasers just came in. One of them has 2 of the reluctor tangs bent down, and there's a slight wobble in the reluctor plate (2 of the 3 pins are loose). I wonder if it's a big deal since the tangs can be bent back up, and the phaser bolt will compress the reluctor against the phaser, and against the cam - It looks like someone on the factory line dropped it. There aren't any other looseness issues, rotationally or otherwise. Looking for your thoughts - Thanks also for your clear and concise video's. I do appreciate them.
AltitudeGrower I would not be installing that one no way send it back.
I have a 2010 F-150 with the 5.4. I have noticed a chattering noise when I give it throttle an than take my foot off the gas, as the RPMs drop, I'm assuming it's the timing chain tensioner not keeping tension, allowing the chain to be loose. Is that common on the 5.4?
Yes also the phasers can oscillate causing the noise only use Ford components though they are linked in the video description.
Great video one question how do you hold the camshaft to keep it from spinning?
FordTechMakuloco, I have a 2009 5.4 3V F150, with 159,000 miles. At high acceleration it loses power slightly, then runs normal again (as if nothing is wrong). After speaking with a diagnostics tech, he suggested the VCT solenoids may have begin to stick based on the mileage. After watching several of your videos (on VCT and other components) I decided to replace the VCT solenoids, Camshaft Phaser Sensor, Timing Chains along with a HV Oil Pump. I purchase all Ford Motorcraft OEM parts (except oil pump/Melling), with the intention of having my local Ford Dealer doing the labor. YES I know the labor $$$$ is a killer, however, I was informed by the service manager/dealer that I would ruin my engine by putting in the new parts (specifically the oil pump would be to powerful and ruin parts that were not swapped). My question, have you experienced or heard of anyone ruining the engine by CORRECTLY replacing the Timing chain and Cam Phasers as outlined in your videos?
Thanks for any information you or anyone else may provide.
really great intuitive instructions here.. is it the same for the 5.4L triton 2v? I want to do my timing components soon, I suspect its due at 196k mi
Hey this is very helpful information you walked thru it nicely. One question you said i have to remove all the rocker arms? then when i put the chain on and release the tensioners i put them back in right? like i gotta pry them in a lil correct?
Sal Rivas Yes they should all be removed time them and then reinstall I have a few tricks to getting them back in on my phaser video.
FordTechMakuloco thanx for replying bro and ok thanx man i appreciate all your help your vids are great dude thank you again.
My buddy took his chain off before setting it in the 6 o clock position do I just turn the crank to the six o clock position and then follow the rest of the information in the video
Great video. Very informative. When using you impact gun to tighten nuts/bolts down (especially ones that need a specific torque value) how do you ensure it doesn't over torque the nut/bolt?
Pet Rock's Garage I have a feel for my tools over the years that feather touch take awhile to learn but saves tons of time by snugging up bolts just right and torqueing from there. Like in this video like on the trigger and the rattle from the impact perfect then just a short swing of the torque wrench and you are done. We used to have out arms gauged in the military tightening the lug nuts on the Humvee wheels, QC didn't believe us until they busted out the torque wrench to check our work. You just know after awhile.
I've said this before. This man is a master what's Ford modular motors, great mechanic he was in my he would do my stuff if I had enough money where I don't have to do it myself
Thanks for all your helpful videos. I’m replacing all timing components on the same engine, and in the process I took apart the vct solenoid body to clean all passages and the little filter inside. This filter is held down by a head-less Ellen bolt. Do I need to seal the thread of this bolt or install it clean? If yes, what sealer would you use? Same question for the other smaller bolt on the vct body. I’m asking because I think these bolts are supposed to prevent oil flow through them, which might compromise the oil pressure going to the tensioner.
Hey just a question do you have to have number 1 piston on top dead center to do this. Might sound dumb but just curious because im about to do this. Thanks in advance.
We set cylinder 1 at the begining of the procedure with the holding tool.
FordTechMakuloco Ohhhh haha my dad was watching it i chimed in about halfway through. Thanks man very good vids! I subbed.
Hi Great video. I have a dumb question. Is it possible to get the timing of by 180 degrees? I am about to try this on my daughters truck for the first time. Just worried about getting the camshaft off by 180.
+LOF Camshaft can be that is why they are timed with colored link chains and timing marks L an R as shown in the video.
Can the oil pump be removed and replaced without dropping the oil pan. Also any idea of where to get the valve cover bolts, mine are all rusty and no socket fits them any more. Thanks
Major Smack No I just know they are part of the cover you would think dorman would be all over this as your problem is very common. I have replace and oil pump before without dropping the pan yes it was quite easy too.
Brian, how often do you not replace replace the phasers and oil pump? It looks as though these items were reused on this video possibly.
Great video, is the procedure the same for a 5.4 4 valve in a 2012 Shelby gt?
john toomey It is very similar but not exactly the same when it comes to lining up timing marks.
Just a quick question. I know the key way should be at 6 o clock. But on what part of the rotation? Should cylinder 1 be up like top dead center. I did not follow the directions when taking the engine apart and not sure where the engine should be when the key way is down.
+Kevin Gardner The crank can only be in one position at 6 so just set it there with the dot at 6 and time from there
Think you should cover the difference between left an right side cams they are difrent, luckily I had cams right unfortunately it seems I was not T.D.C. on compression stroke instead on exhaust an marked fazers left an right opposite of what they should of been after lining marks up on chains an rotated engine couple times watching cam lobes an firing order I knew some thing wasn't right. Had hard ass time çause no one seemed to know the difference thanks to ford form couple old boys figured it out one longer than the other. may of had that right but dam sure had fazers wrong, wonder what happened when I truned the key????
I understand you can interchange ends of the timing chain with either the crank sprocket or the phaser. Regardless of the way its setup initially, will the phaser arrows on the R and L ......ALWAYS point to EITHER: the center of the single dark timing chain link, OR in between the 2 dark timing chain links?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge here....it is very helpful!
Stan Lehman Yes if there are no marks visible just lay it out as shown and when laying the chain straddle the arrow on the phaser.
I notice in the video you have the camshaft journals loose. Is that just to make for easier install of chains or just to take the followers out?
Hi Ford Tech,
I am just about to perform a full timing job on my 05 F250 5.4 3v. Just to make sure I am not doing anything wrong I figured I would ask an expert a few questions. Here is what I plan on doing in the exact order, crankshaft pulley sprocket at the 12 o’clock timing mark at 1 o’clock. (Correct cam lobe for position 1)? Pulling the cams and taking all the lifters out. Putting cams back in. Do I now put the key way to 6 o’clock? Removing spark plugs, removing both chains, tensioners, guides, sprockets and removing both cam phasers.
Re-installing the cam phasers first, which I was nott sure if this would make a difference or not. Following the video and putting the key way at the 11 o’clock six on the sprocket then installing my guides chains tensioners etc..
Once everything is installed putting my lifters back in one at a time rotating the engine as needed to install or will the tool allow me to install all the roller followers?
Thanks for the help,
Jake Smith You want to put keyway at 12 and check the cam lobes on cylinder number 1 to make sure they appear as shown in my phaser knocking noise fix video. If not you need to rotate the crank another 360. Once those 3 roller followers are out each side then you can rotate the crank clockwise to the 6 oclock position. Replace your timing components tensioners guides etc and remove all followers now position the crank clockwise till the sprocket timing dot is at the 6 oclock position and time the engine as shown in this video.
Excellent video. A question. Is it the same timing for a 4.6 ford f250? I hope you have understood me because I used translator. from mexico. cheers!
+Jorge Focil there is no 4.6l in a f250 what year?
+FordTechMakuloco
I have a 05 F150 with 5.4L. I bought brand new Ford 5.4L 3V engine zero mileage in Tucson, AZ only $2,000 lowest price instead Ford Dealer cost like $5,000! I installed new 5.4L on my truck at 196,000 , now so fsr it has 47,000 miles on my F150 250,000 miles without problems so I change engine oil on time every 3,000 miles to avoid sludge that would block engine oil flow to head cylinders so no oil though to VCT and cam phasers cause tensioners get dry stuck retarded cam timing knocked. I am hoping my new 5.4L to runs longer than 160, 000 miles but my original 5.4L quit at 150,000 miles that it had too many problems with timing chains system that it knocked and noise as diesel loud so we did fix install new timing chains kit, cam phasers, cam sensors, oil pump, VCTs, and tensioners too at 164,000 miles, it was good so far but still again noise came back also knocked shake a lot while retarded cam position because of no oil on head cylinders to cam phaser also to feed oil to tensioners that I don't understand I use right kind of oil Motorcraft 5w20 and motorcraft oil filter but still problem. because of engine poor designed for oil flow are too small not enough pressure to top of engine? all my friend's 5.4L 3V quit less 150,000 miles as mine.
If you get the crank shaft and phasers correctly positioned are there other mistakes that will destroy the engine on start up? Looking to identify the points in the process that can not be corrected if startup does not go as it should. Thanks
Do you recommend tacking off the Radiator support before doing this.
On the newer f series yes
Thank for the video, quick question. During the process of replacing my phasers and chains i rotated the crank shaft, with timing chains removed, out of position by about 1/4 inch. I'm starting from scratch on timing and was watching the video. How do I rotate the crank to get it back into position. In your other video I have the key at the top or 12 o clock position. How do I get it to the 6 o clock without damaging anything?
So you just move your cam/ phaser to line the letter up with colored links on both sides?
my first 5.4 timing chain job wow what a job but this video was very helpful even to a trained tech thank you
Do you have any videos from start to finish on how to do timing on a 1997 ford expedition xlt 5.4 v8 ?
No I don't sorry
I'm blowing plumes of white smoke since getting on it a little in my 06 Mustang last night. Been getting a cylinder 6 misfire code, even after replacing the coil. Now I barely have enough power to move the car forward (Topped out at 40 on the way home last night, when it happened.), and this started when the engine became extremely rough idling, and making clanking sounds inside the engine (that sounded like metal playing Plinko!) Sound like this is what I need to now?
Will Swartz Sounds like a sticking injector to me personally.
great instructions here. thanks for being so thorough. Do you know if the process is similar on the 2-valve motors? I'm about to pull the heads on my Excursion with a 2V 6.8L v10.
nevermind I just saw someone else's comment where you said the 2V motors are different. Any advice? I can't find any good videos on the v10.
As I am doing this timing job I noticed that my lash adjusters don't have any "spring" to them. How much spring effect should they have? I have seen some other you tubers showing that they must have a lot of play. I have read elsewhere that they should only move max of 1/16th of an inch.
They shouldn't move but a 1/16th like you read. They are made to transfer the motion not give.
In this video i see that the bolts for the camshaft are loose, so you put all the time marks and you tighten the bolts for the camshaft or do you need a special tool to lock the camshaft and then tighten the bolts?
Eric Martinez It is a trick I do to prevent putting each follower in after timing, you just have to tighten the caps down even paying close attention to the front one.
FordTechMakuloco so you do it whith the rollers f in. And then at the end u tight in the cam?
Hi I going to work on my truck. I have question the number one piston have to be up for star put the timing chain?
Following the video for crank positions based on keyway location as shown in the video is the only way
+FordTechMakuloco tank you for you time very helpful video.
Hi i have question I just did my timing and the truck work good but went take to drive lucks like I have only 6 cylinders and the phasers start noise and bad rough adle and die I change the vct solenoid work for little bit. Is possible the the new phaser are bad.
Is this the same on a 5.4 2v? And is there anything regarding #1 being at TDC for this to work? (I have seemed to hear that a lot). You just set the crank and use the chain to orient the cam/cam gear?
The 5.4l 2v is a bit different but the same tool used here to align the crank is used on the 5.4l 2v engine.
when you put the bottom chain gear on, did you push it on until it stopped? is there any amount of space you should leave behind the gear?
Dude you just saved my life with your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
I like the ideal of the loosen cam caps vs the removal of the roller follows
I have a 4.6L 3v mustang, I'm rebuilding the motor, first actual rebuild I'm doing. I've worked with the 3v before and messed up the timing. Is this all you have to do?? Many people have told me to make sure I have the pistons in the right location+key on the crankshaft. Something that has to do with the normal stroke and power stroke. I ended up with low compression last time. Could you help explain why a bad timing job would give me low compression, and if the pistons have to be in a certain orientation for allighnment with a normal stroke and power stroke?
Hey Brian what is the correct procedure if I were to be replacing the chain tensioners and nothing else? Can the engine go out of timing when removing the tensioners?
If you were changing the cam phaser them self during this process when would you do so? I watched your other video on how to change the cam phaser. Would you have to do all this than reinstall the timing cover so you can turn the crank and remove the roller followers as shown in your other video? Than change the cam phaser?
+brad carchidi If you had the engine this far apart for a timing chain job or head job the phasers could be changed anytime after the timing chains were removed. Of course in order to do either of these jobs all the roller folllowers would already be out to prevent bent valves.
+FordTechMakuloco Appreciate the response thank you.
Thanks for the video what do you think about cam phaser lock outs... is ford using them..
Hey FORDTECH do you absolutely have to take the valves loose to be able to get cams in correct position because I can move the cam with a little force 4 inches either way and get it to where its just about to roll over and get the chain on
Excellent videos, Thanks for the tutorials. I have a p0021 code on my 2006 ford Expo 5.4L3v. I replaced both vtc solenoids; erase the code, engine runs nice but 5 minutes after driving the code comes back on and starts idling rough again and feels like its missing every no and then. What are your thoughts on why the code comes back?
+Steve Willsey Unplug the vct solenoid on bank 2 which is the drivers side. Go for a drive and see if the concern and codes still exist then you will know if the concern is mechanical or not.
+FordTechMakuloco light came on. Noisier on passenger than driver. I was at the ford parts counter asking for plugs and the ford mech next to me asks if I know how to swap them out. We got into discussing the p0021 code and he gave me an ear full. he just did a $2500 timing job on a 3valve. I'm guessing I might need to do all the timing parts as I intend to keep this 112k King Ranch (it's nice) vehicle till 200k or just sell it now, as is and move on. In your opinion, would you fix and keep or sell?
If you can follow my videos and do the timing and plugs yourself then I say keep it
+FordTechMakuloco thanks for you opinion. I was thinking Of going to do the plugs and phasers. I'll give an update when I'm finished. Hopefully the engine light goes off.
+Steve Willsey After taking off the valve covers, I can see that the passenger side chain guide is broken. What are your thoughts on just replacing the guides and tensioners? I'm already replacing the Camshaft Position Sensors on both sides. 115K miles on Expo.
Yes I use the otc tool to line it up camshafts was locked Done in correct position I have two other techs check and they also approved it. But I'm check compression tight now to see if I bent any vales.
What you think about the Melling cast iron tensioners being used instead of the plastic oem ones ?
do you have any videos of replacing head gaskets for 07 5.4?
no
Is it necessary to replace the valve cover and timing chain cover gaskets?
Ryan K Most definitely
Nice :) thanks for the walk thru, so, what are the phasers for? adjust timing? why do they make so much racket, I was told they don't get a good oil supply and replacing them only masks the issue, the real issue is a weak oil pump?
Quick question. If the motor was timed with the chain lined up on the L on both right and left side, will this not warp a valve or two? I am helping a friend who tried to do it himself and he didn't "see" the R on the right side, so he lined it up on the L the same as the Left side. Just asking so I know whether to pull the heads for a new valve job or set it and go. Truck would start and idle, but wouldn't move out of its tracks.
Thanks
Ralph Clifton At that point the timing would be 180 off on the right cam and most likely caused a valve to hit the piston yes. Anything over 2 teeth off likely caused valve damage.