78. How should I arrange the new campervan electricals?
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- Опубликовано: 7 мар 2023
- A very long and quite possibly riveting video in which I ponder the possible locations for the new Ecotree Lithium battery and the Renogy 2kW inverter in the campervan along with the associated other bits and pieces.
If you liked the video and wish to leave me a tip, thank you!
www.ko-fi.com/davidjohns
Tools & Parts used for my campervan build
Lithium battery: www.ecotreelithium.co.uk
Autoterm diesel heater: geni.us/Van_Autoterm
Renogy 2kW inverter: geni.us/Van_RenogyInverter
Sink: geni.us/Van_NewSink
Induction hob: geni.us/Van_InductionHob
Portable toilet: geni.us/Van_Toilet
Fridge: geni.us/Van_CoolFreezeCDF26
Charger: geni.us/Van_MainsCharger
Solar Controller: geni.us/Van_SolarMPPT
Gas Alarm: geni.us/Van_GasAlarm
Old sink unit: geni.us/Van_SinkHob
Old heater unit: geni.us/Van_PropexHS2000
Old inverter: geni.us/Van_Inverter
DeWalt jigsaw: geni.us/Van_DeWaltJigsaw
DeWalt drill: geni.us/Van_DeWaltDrill
DeWalt mitre saw: geni.us/Van_DeWaltMitreSaw
DeWalt circular saw: geni.us/Van_DeWaltCircSaw
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Hello all! Here are some answers to the (very!) frequently asked questions and frequently offered suggestions:-
1. I stand to be corrected (!!!) but I'm not convinced yet that the inverter will get too hot as it will only ever run for about 10 minutes at a time (warming some soup or boiling some rice etc) and it is very cool down on the floor where I hope it might go.
2. Yes, I will buy 90-degree lugs and see if I can get the inverter in the same cabinet as the battery, as I initially considered then dismissed.
3. There is not enough room to put the inverter above the battery.
4. I need to have a look under the passenger seat to see if there's space there, yes
5. The bedding does fill its section (I had removed two duvets while filming!)
6. It's only a cold tap (I know it looks like a mixer but isn't!)
Cheers and thanks for all the lovely tips!
David
At the end of the day, it's YOUR VAN, and you're the one that has to live with whatever you do! I enjoy watching you faffing about and yelling at the screen every time regardless! ENJOY! 💜💜💜😻
It looks as though from the comments you have taken quite a beating on this particular subject. I am sorry this has turned into more modifications to your existing electrics housing than expected but, since you are trying to increase your power output by 5 times, extensive reworking is not uncommon.
It's is hard to get a precise approximation of how long the induction cooktop will be running since it takes a lot of power to bring water to a boil. I am just erring on the side of extra design margin in regards to heating of the electrics since, excessive heat in that area will shorten the inverter, as well as the battery life.
Bill, I wouldn't say a beating - all good advice and suggestions - just a lot of repeats so I'm trying to save people the effort if their suggestion has already been made!
MY 2000 Watt pure sinewave inverter lives in a similar space to yours (under an enclosed seat), and it never heats up. The internal fan sees to that, along with the sufficient air space in the enclosure-- which is unvented.
I'm glad you added this as I was just typing up a reply to suggest some of the same. Believe it or not, these "not very fun" videos are the best to me, as the interest in coming up with clever engineering solutions and tinkering are the main reason I'm here. Well, that and the puns. Appreciate the videos as always, David! Cheers from rainy California!
David, STOP! A 2kW inverter is about 90% efficient, meaning at full load about 200W will be dissipated as heat. This means one important thing: AIRFLOW! if you enclose it the way you seem to have decided it will easily overheat, causing it to turn off to protect itself, and even if you could live with that it will most likely shorten the lifetime of the unit drastically!
YOU MUST ENSURE A GOOD AIRFLOW!
My recommendation would be to redo the panel on the left side of the cabinet holding the 230V connectors, freeing up space for mounting the inverter along the front of the compartment holding the battery, making a large ventilation hole towards the side door as well as on the other side of the cabinet (next to the fan grills), facing towards the rear doors. Place the main cutoff switch where the upper 230V connector currently is located and find somewhere else for placing the 230V connectors - maybe above the inverter, facing towards the rear door.
I get your reasoning for having two 230V connectors, but I would probably put the two connectors in parallel and use a switch to select between shore power and power from the inverter...
Ventilation would also be a good thing for the smaller electrics cabinet, although the solar charger and DC/DC charger are not as powerful as the inverter. It's still likely to get toasty there...
I do automotive electronics development for a living and can only stress the importance of ensuring good cooling!
Just what I was going to say. +1 cooling cooling cooling
@@TheAdenau I agree. very worried about the cooling of the inverter
Cheers. The solar cabinet has been fine for five years (and there is no DC/DC charger) so I'm happy that that's OK "as is"
Two items, David. First, that inverter needs decent airflow to keep it cool during use. You might want to put some ventilation holes into an adjoining compartment to increase airflow.
Second, look into using some plastic conduit to run the wires through to keep things neat. Fittings allow you to bolt a connector through a plywood wall, and then just cut the conduit to fit between connectors. Then you just run the wires through the conduit.
I haven't got a clue what you are on about with the electrics etc. but a huge congratulations on the toilet roll holder! ha x
Thank you!
That inverter needs a supply of cool air and an exit for warm air.. .. they can get hot. You can't really mount it in an enclosed space with no airflow.. You would need to vent the area.
Yes needs venting, a small computer fan uses very small amount of power.
We run ours in a cabin that is around 38° in summer. It doesn't seem fussed, but we dont run it for extended periods.
If you plan on running the induction cooker, the inverter will generate quite a bit of heat. Ventilation would be required in the compartment. It would be advantageous to mount the inverter in the same compartment as the battery in cold weather to heat the battery, but disadvantages in hot weather.
Hi David, I get the impression that the details of this installation are causing a bit of anxiety. I have done several similar installations so, hopefully my suggestions will be of some help. First off, determine how much of the existing cabinet space is available for the new installation. The highest priority by far is the cable length between the battery and inverter. I estimate you will need 10.1 mm (80 mm sq) copper diameter cables to carry the 200 amps and I would strive to keep the cable length to no more than 250 mm if possible. Use welder's cable or similar fine stranded wire, which is more flexible. Given your available space, I suggest mounting the battery on the van floor so it can't move around when the van is in motion. Directly above the battery, place a shelf to mount the inverter on with both battery and inverter terminals as close as possible to each other. Any component in the electrical system that generates heat must have some type of ventilation and there should be least 25 mm of clearance between the component body and cabinet to allow air flow. The rest of the electrical components can be mounted wherever it is convenient simply because they are not carrying that much current. Switches and fuses should be easily accessible but, especially the master switch. So, fit your largest components first in proposed layouts and group the smaller components nearby where practical.
The cables from your 2000W inverter don't have to go straight out. You can get right angle eye terminals to connect the cables to the inverter.
David , don’t forget airflow. 2000W generate lots of heat , inverter has fan built in so make sure plenty of airflow wherever you decide to put it .
You can get right angled copper tube terminals to enable inverter cables to not have to go into the bedding compartment.
Current Dilemma? In Puns Labyrinth! You're still my favorite nerd, Dave.
No matter where the inverter goes, it will need ventilation. It can't be blocked in or covered up. I hope you got it sorted out. I feel your frustration. Move 1 thing and you end up moving 5 things. I call that game "Solar Tetris". ( Charge controller, breaker box, inverter, fuse, shut off switch..... AC breakers, DC fuses.....)
New battery where the old battery is, false floor on top of it, inverter on top, leaving loads of airflow, possibly vents cut in, then it's all contained together, the cables will easily flex to and from the battery below
Sadly, not enough room to put the inverter above the battery.
My suggestion is that whatever you do, keep the DC cables from the battery to the inverter short as possible. 2000W at 12 VDC is ~170 A, while at 240 VAC is ~8 A. You want minimal voltage drop from the battery to the inverter.
Absolutely
Your last thought is the best way..... And i do love electrical work 😁
You have to have air flow through the closed cupboard to cool the inverter or the unit will overheat.
Remove the small panel behind the sockets. Move the back wall out to make room for the battery. Mount the inverter on its side to back wall you just moved. You can get angled connectors.
You can take the cover plates of the inverter sockets and wire directly to the external sockets on the outside panel.
The consumer unit should be on its back wall and all the fusing in the space just vacated.
If those main battery cables are aluminum, throw them away and get real copper cables. The copper will handle that much power without a problem. Never use aluminum cables. They're garbage and cause problems, including fires. I would just put the battery and the inverter in your existing battery compartment with the terminals facing the electrical compartment ( towards the door). That would keep everything in a smaller area with shorter cables. The partitions would have to go, but no major loss.
Electrics take up so much space (and aren't light). Just remember the inverter will likely have a hum while running, so right under your head while sleeping might be less than pleasant. Ok, if you don't need any AC power overnight and can just turn it off. If you use false bottoms, hinge them in so they are easy to open. Lay it out with wires in place. Sometimes the bends you have to make with thick wires take up more room than you would think. Great choice on keeping the stove top mobile. It can be lovely to cook outside, especially if it is something with strong smells, or if you don't want to have to go inside just to make a cup of tea.
Yes, the inverter will only run when I need to cook or boil the kettle.
I’d turn your battery 90 degrees, then get the inverter in next to it, yes you lose somewhere to put your spare water, but in terms of overall loss I reckon that would be the least
“Gentle demolition” Quite the understatement David !
GFCI Ground Fault Curtic Interrupter. I am thinking put L shaped lugs on the inverter cables. Good luck with this project.
Blimey David, you’re a marvel and I’m still sane after all that. I do like your final ideas but don’t get me to name them!
That inverter should probably be able to breath a bit. But Honestly, I think you are better off just using the battery and inverter compartments you have and modifying those to fit everything. I think it is silly and even potentially hazardous to have the inverter farthest away and wiring all that stuff around when your plugs are right next to the old inverter. It is hard to give you a solid plan because I am not there in person, so I can't actually see the sizes you are working with, but if you can make it happen, reworking those compartments(tearing out some of those walls), I think you will be a lot safer and happier in the long term. Also make sure you use the 2 wires together like you said, or get a new one custom size and gauge for that 2000W output. That stove will NEED it. It is best to keep the wires from the inverter to battery as short as possible too, but not a big deal if you don't. Maybe get a ~175 amp fuse between the battery and inverter. Good luck with your choice! And keep that inverter way from anything potentially flammable like linens.
Take out all partitions and start again, prioritizing battery and Inverter, sort your storage out after electrics are done
I think that you need to read the cooling requirements of the inverter. In my experience putting one in a confined space is an error, and especially one fitted with two cooling fans. However I do see that this system is not going to get very heavy use - but I would still read the tech specs to gain a better understanding. I might also add that you are adding weight to the right hand side of the vehicle (the driver's side) and you appear to do most of your trips alone. This will lead to increased wear on the suspension and potentially a noticeable 'lean' to the vehicle when you are driving it - but it is a good thing that the battery will be positioned on the centre line. Interesting project, very much enjoying the voyage. Well done you.
Cheers. The weight shouldn't be an issue, the van has a load capacity of 1,200 kg so anything I have in there currently is relatively negligible.
I agree with your last suggestion of position things, however bare in mind not to box the inverter in too much, otherwise you may compromise on the cooling of it via the fans and the ability to switch it off and on. Good luck in not blowing yourself up!
I'm glad you're working that out
I see many commentors with good ideas. I will just second making sure there is airflow for the inverter; even using spacers to get it off the floor an inch or so will help with circulation and then you can put a perforated cover (false floor) on top and use for storage of anything other than linens. Definitely should use a vent into the living area near the inverter.
You seem to be thinking about the mechanical positioning of each item, and then the wiring of it. I would suggest deciding on the mechanical placement of each item based on the minimum wire length between the battery terminals and the inverter input. The best place for the main isolator is mounted on the battery terminal with integral fuse / breaker. Remember batteries are always live and have the power to vapourise spanners so insulate the tools. I used to train engineers who maintained battery systems.
Perhaps there are batteries and inverters with the performance you need as well as more favourable dimensions. Something to consider in the future, a great deal of painful research during the shopping phase can save one from future headaches.
Of course if you got a great deal on that battery and inverter, that's understandable!
The battery was free as explained in a prior video and the inverter is typical of its size.
Keep in mind, the heat from the inverter has to go somewhere. Dumping it into the box where you have it mounted may get hot.
Yea! It makes my night whenever I see one of your videos pop up on my feed 😃
If you were removing the dividers, etc where the water bottle was sitting, you could fit the battery & inverter in that box with the terminals for the inverter ( mounted on its side) poking through drilled holes in the fuse/electrics cupboard
Understatement of the week!
Why not clear the space out, including the wood framing bits, and come up with a rationalized design for the power system. THEN look at the space that is left with an eye toward bedding and tool stores?
Oh dear David , you lost me a quarter of the way in, but I agree with you about wanting things neat and tidy, I’m like that when decorating for Christmas with all the lights wiring. Anyway good luck, I’ll tune back in when it’s done. 😂
How about rebuilding the battery cabinet. Place the battery on the bottom, build a shelf over it and place the inverter there. Make a top for the cabinet and make a door at the front to access the battery and inverter from the front. You can fit the water bottle elsewhere more easily if this scheme works.
Sadly, not enough room to put the inverter above the battery.
Awesome work Dave ❤
Thank you 😁
Plan the work, then work the plan. I think you have a good idea of what needs to be done. Thanks for sharing!
I now have the mother of all headaches after watching this video. Some of your technical videos should come with a warning label, like: "Caution, micromanaging brain dump in progress, wear appropriate protection". Can't wait to see the finished product.
I would have said that was taken as read with my videos!!!
if wiring's not an issue, i would look at mounting the inverter under the passenger seat. if it fits, you'll keep demolition to a minimum and lose less storage space (also allow proper ventilation for the inverter)
I love all the tongue n cheek titles to all of your videos. Well done.
Ground Fault Interruption Circuit. Enjoying the vids, David. Thank you
Looks good to me, your plan.
David, I'm glad you finally got all your plumbing problems sorted out. I like the idea of making the cooktop portable, versus built in to the counter top.
I like your cooking arrangement! 😅😅😅😅 Thanks!!
Your idea to open up your bedding stage space and use it for your electronics is excellent. That puts everything together as it should be. 😊
That was a bit of hard work for you David, good luck with it all
Thinking aloud is often very useful!
It really is!
David , regardless of substance I always enjoy your videos
Yet again another masterpiece of a video title! 😊👍🏻
David is clever at that, eh?
@21:10 you begin to explain my thinking, and I thank you for that.
If you drill some holes into the woodwork, forming the starboard side of the clothes+inverter compartment, it would give a channel of cooler air, which will healthily be used by the inverter.
Also, you can poke some holes into the loo-compartment likewise, to provide access to yet another box of breeze.
Interesting and yes a conundrum
That was one of your best videos ever...😬😳🧐
Hi David, you could put the inverter where you currently store the water container, in front of the battery. This would mean shorter cable runs and a neater installation. It would also allow for batter ventilation, as the inverter will need adequate airflow to avoid overheating.
Allow enough clearence for inverter fan intake and exhaust. Also, placing it in an enclosed space can cause overheating.
Sir, The LiFePo4 battery you selected can be positioned in any orientation you wish . This means it can be positioned on it's side, end, or upside down if that suits your needs. If it won't fit in the compartment sitting on it's bottom, perhaps sitting on it's end or side will work.
Elastictrikkery is always fun to install. My only advice is make sure it's all easy to get at when/if things go wrong. Only you will be happy with your installation as you know your van intimacy. Cheers from old George
So many suggestions make it confusing when you can't see the whole set up. Just make sure you leave enough space for air to circulate around all that electrical stuff to keep it cool.
David with reference to the jubilee clip requirement I am just glad you don't work on bottled gas connections or hoses with water pressure constantly on!
Take care and all the best with the electrics
Err but you wouldn't use a barbed connection on its own there. I wasn't suggesting it was suitable to gas or high pressure lines!!!
I know nothing of how such things are installed, and I enjoyed this video! However, I was asking myself about ventilation with every choice. Like the idea of false bottoms so the storage space can still be used.
CC I was watching and the obvious answer kept coming to me. Why don't you remove the centre wooden divide in the existing battery box and put the new battery in there facing down the van ( if you get my drift) so that the contacts are near the front corner where you want to put the master switch. You can then put the inverter beside it and if necessary move the side wall so both fit together and you still have a reasonable size storage box for the bedding. 🤔🤔
Inverter AND battery into the corner storage cupboard. Inverter on side attached to studs facing out (near side wall) so wires can go around the corner through the bedding cupboard and can be boxed in. If you put inverter on the outside wall then the wires will have further to go to get to rest of electronics and will impose on then bedding storage more. Hope that helps 😊
Just my two pennies' worth, I would be rearranging the electric cupboard and wiring so that inverter has the optimum position for cooling and connection to the battery. "Sometimes the longest route is the shortest" glad you got the tap fixed though 👍
You can get 90 deg terminal lugs to help with your cable routing for the Inverter. Definatly consider cooling vents for the inverter if you plan to run the induction hob for extended cooking times. possibly computer fans to help there! keep your cable runs as short as you can and the positive and negative lenght should be equal or as close as you can.
Just make a false floor in all 3 of the storage spaces. This will allow space for all electronic boxes and cable runs. Just, as others noted, be sure that the entire electronic space(s) have good through flow ventilation, possibly by adding ventilation grids or holes near floor of each space. Good luck!
Don’t forget to build into your false bottom a place for your valuables. A safe. But don’t tell us else it won’t be safe 😮
David, your config at ~ 24:00 timestamp looks best with a caveat: pay special attention to the inverter manufacturer's specifications for clearances for dumping heat. All of your other arrangements thumbs up, IMHO. Cheers.
Hi David,
Prioritize: There are three bulky items here and the least critical by far is the water container, it can go literally anywhere. I'd prefer the battery and inverter to be in that area together, even if you have to shrink the size of your bedding storage area slightly to allow easy fitment of the cabling. Good luck and thanks for the vlog.
Could you put the new inverter where the water can stands now (I know, you talked about that, but hear me out!) in such a way that the inverter's two plugs replace the two plugs that are now at the outer wall of that cupboard towars the door. That might mean the cables from the inverter might have enough bending space on the other side. Then you'd just have to find a place for the water canister. But yes, you'd lose your safety-shore power plug. ... Well, it's another idea to consider.
Looking at all your possibilities, I think your last version is probably the best! That false floor thing saves you the most space and I think cooling and all that will be better.
You know, it is sometimes fun to break my head for someone else's problems. Apart from that, it is good mental exercise.
BTW: glad you solved your leak-problem! Just installed an new dishwasher in the house and I'm so happy that everything worked on the first try! (ok, they make it easy but still, you never know)
Turn the battery and inverter 180 and remove the partition between the two electrical spaces. change the top of the electrical box to let air circulate. Obviously other electronics will have to be adjusted.
As regard your bedding compartment if there's only wiring going going in there, the wire can be clipped securely around the interior of the box and secured by plastic conduit which will keep everything safe and tidy..
I would put the inverter above the battery separated buy the shelf. You can get right angled terminal connectors. Yes you would need to widen that bit but the panel between battery is the only bit that needs modifying, making the bedding compartment an bit of an L shape. The brace across the top can stay in place. This would keep high amp cables short, provide able space around for cooling and minimise space lost in my opinion. what ever you decide, good luck!
Move the battery rearwards (where you currently have your spare water container) and mount the inverter where the battery is but with the connectors towards your electrical compartment. You can then route any bends through the electrical compartment.
Hey David! The "invisible" sounding board (I myself do it without a camera - so yeah: I talk to myself and sometimes that is good conversation actually and does solve problems, if you go through pros and cons of something etc.) is a tried and tested method of problem solving!
As for your van: It does drive a lesson I learned recently (well: OK over a year ago by now!) home, too - You can never have too many cable-ducts! If you want to ad something later to anything (be it a house, an apartment, a boat, a camper-van etc.), it's best if you installed cable-ducts while constructing the thing.
Sadly: Cable-ducts were not a thing in the 60s, when my grandfather built this house! So yeah, I had to add my own on top of the wall (doing the old thing with a mallet and chisel is just too time-consuming and frankly too messy, too!), drill large holes in the walls and still ended up not getting everything 100% as I want it...but it's good enough for now having 2 LAN-Sockets in each room (except the bathroom!)
ps: No, WLAN is not "good enough" - I love a reliable connection and there's a lot of WLAN-Networks around, I am living in a (small) town after all, so they tend to not be reliable really!
Keep the battery where it is ... remove the partition in the battery box. Add a shelf/false floor above the battery and put the inverter on top.... fuse box and master switches can still fit in the battery space ...
Hey! You're back!!
I never went away! I expect RUclips has been doing its usual thing of not giving you notifications, alas.
@@Vandemonium It was a bit of a joke. I hadn't seen you in a week or so, since the last video! Cheers!
Time to go shopping for new terminal connectors. They make 90 degree terminals for cables that would allow that inverter to fit in the water bottle storage spot. Search for 90 degree ring terminal. You will also need to cut some holes for vents in the front but that's easy.
Whatever you end up doing I am sure it will be great, lots of good ideas here.
I would try fitting the battery first, preferably with the terminals toward the door. Then see if you have enough space to build a shelf above the battery for the inverter. Negative cable from battery direct to the buss bar on the other side of the partition, positive through a fuse like a SamlexPower DC-FA-200 bolted directly to the terminal and then on to the battery disconnect switch. From there I would install a positive buss after the disconnect and run from the busses to the inverter, and from the busses to the 12v fuse block for your circuits.
I would also cut holes in the partition between the battery and the solar charge to allow the inverter fans to function properly and cut some vent holes in the bottom front of the battery cabinet to promote good air circulation through the cabinet and around the inverter.
Looking forward to seeing your solution. Thanks for all the great videos.
Cheers. There will be bus bars! No space for the inverter on top though, so cabling it is.
David I would suggest that anytime wires of any thickens goes through a partition that you get yourself some vinyl or rubber grommets. They would help to protect the wires. Most substantial work stations have them these days. You could also get you a rolled up holder for your wrenches.
AWG= American Wire Gauge.
i lost it when we got to "the vessel with the pestle is the brew that is true !!!" BONKERS
I would move the Bedding store wall over 6 to 8 inches. Giving the room for battery and inverter.
I would suggest as others have done to start again. Prioritise and design your electrical system (including items you may fit at a later date) over everything else because this is more important. Bedding and other miscellaneous things will sort themselves out. I know you will probably balk at the idea and not do it but you would have peace of mind with a job well done. All the best with whatever you come up with.
You can get a 90-degree lug that will allow you to have the cable come up or down.
all the best
It’s called a GFI ( ground fault interrupter). It will prevent electrocution , and fires too
Cheers from California 😊
I would say putting it flat on the bottom and covering it with a little step is the best idea. Carry the step through to the next compartment and the wires will be underneath all the covers.
Just to put a spanner in the works lol.. put the inverter plug side next to the two sockets where the jerry can is.. then you can get 90 degree cable lugs, you can get left, right and pointing up lugs.. fix the inverter to the wall opposite the Battery
Mount the inverter on the metal behind the passenger seat, then put a removable divider between it and your bedding. It will have ventilation from under the seat and your bedding will still fit. Then remove the divider in the battery compartment and turn the battery 90 degrees, and mount the charger on the opposite wall. Then you can put the water jug in the big compartment under the bed . Easy Peasy !
Your bedding bundle is rectangular. Turn It 90 degrees. It will creep into the larger storage area, but will allow you some room to the drivers side of the battery. Mount the Inverter to the front of a new panel to redefine the battery compartment, and put a divider between the inverter feed cables and the bedding bundle.
I would suggest that you could fit the inverter in the compartment where the water bottle with the yellow lid is. You'll have a much shorter and neater run for the cables. Right angle eye terminals will allow it to fit very easily, as long as there is enough ventilation. Inverters tend to get quite hot.
I'd put the battery in the same spot it is now and the inverter in the slot in front where the empty water container is - but have a little bit go into the bedding cubby at floor level - so that the cubby is still pillow sized at the top, but has a bit isolated for the Inverter wires at the base. Keep the cables short and it all together seems better for trouble shooting etc. AND keep the inverter on its own for ventilation - not under things as it could get very hot.
Put the battery where your current one is, and the inverter next to it where the extra water jug is, but rotate the battery and inverter so the big chunky terminals for both are next to the electrical cabinet. The 240v wires from the inverter will be pointing away from the electric cabinet, but the 240v wires will be much smaller and more flexible, and less susceptible to voltage loss due to wire length.
Make sure you have plenty of ventilation for the inverter. You might need a class T fuse for the lithium battery, although I'm not sure with it being 12v.
Well done sir, it'll be great in the end.
Just bend the connector ! Flad cable connector - bend - screw it on - problem solved - eeeeasyyyy installation :)
You can buy right angle eye terminals. No need to bend them. :)
Keep in mind that the inverter will generate a LOT of heat and will need a substantial flow of cool air in order to live long. A question: What is behind that wall there the solar charger is located? Is there room to mount the inverter? Or possibly under a seat? If so, there would certainly be more than enough air flow to keep the inverter happy. Yes, it may be visible from above but at least it will still be alive. You could, extend the top cover to hide the inverter if it bothers you. But, no matter what you do, be sure that there is venting. A subfloor with bedding on top would definately be too restrictive. Those cables, if they are well made, I would suggest doubling them up as you hinted at doing. They will easily carry the load. Lastly, with ANY electrical componnent, HEAT is one of the top reasons for failure. Keep that in mind with any installation and, if needed, there are plenty of small fans with very clean covers that will increase the air flow. Computer fans come ti mind. Also, inlet for air is not enough... there needs to be an outlet to exit the flow of air or things will just recirculate the heat that is absorbed by the flow and result in component failure. Being a retired automotive electrical and Air Conditioning specialist, I have had to repair many components that failed due to heat. Good luck...
No room behind the electrical cabinet, unfortunately. Maybe under the seat though, TBC!
@@Vandemonium Well, under the seat will work fine. Just be sure to keep it clear of anything that would block the flow of air. Keep the inverter cool and it'll be just fine.
Just turn the battery so that the poles facing to the electrics compartment, move the dividing wall forward and mount the inverter to it...shortest run of cables on 12V and 230V side...all other compartments still useable like they were before...
😉👍👍
In a previous life I think you were indecisive, now you just can't make your mind up... 😎
Maybe ;-)
My solution David is to buy a bigger van, then it will all fit. After all you have been looking at a few recently! 😂😂😂 I look forward to the next instalment.
There are 90 degree terminals for your cables onto the inverter
Any space under the front seat or even in the front passenger foot-well? a 2KW inverter is going to be plenty hot so will need more ventilation than a builders tea hut.
On A little bit of a tangent, Do you have or have you thought about a DC - DC charger wired into your van's engine electrics so you can charge your leisure battery while driving? You can never have enough ways of charging if you are going all electric.
Anyway good luck
I don't have a DC/DC and am hoping to get away without one.