CarbonX PPCF Filament, Polypropylene + Carbon Fiber 3D Printing Filament by 3DXTech
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
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0:00 - Intro
1:50 - What Industries Use This Material
2:42 - What Temps You Need to Print This
3:47 - Material Specifications
5:12 - Example Parts
7:16 - Break Tests
10:24 - Burn Tests
15:04 - End
CarbonX™ PP+CF is made using a specialty formulated PP copolymer reinforced with premium high-modulus carbon fiber. This combination offers easier printing than regular PP, with a bit more strength & stiffness, excellent dimensional stability, and a really nice surface finish. So, polypropylene, much like PET, is found almost everywhere, especially in the food industry -- bottles and bottle caps, mostly, pallets, crates, storage containers, household products, battery cases, medical devices, even yogurt cups -- it’s that plastic that won’t break, won’t shatter, and just bends over and over. This particular filament is based on a patent-pending PP formula that has improved thermal properties, as well as low shrinkage/warp compared to competitive filaments. Something interesting to note, as well, is that due to the low density of the material, this 750g reel has the same volume of filament as a 1kg reel of ABS or ASA.
One of the best applications for PP is living hinges - hinges that can be used thousands of times without any wear, and no moving parts -- think about the cap on your hand sanitizer or shampoo bottle -- that’s a living hinge. Now, this CFPP is a bit more rigid, so you probably won’t use it for that, but it’s still pretty cool. According to some reports, the current global demand for PP is around 62 million tons per year -- this stuff is everywhere. In industry, it’s used in automotive when chemical and thermal resistance is needed, and with the carbon fiber, can be used for structural parts, or things like intake manifolds. I probably wouldn’t bolt it straight to the block, but this could definitely be used for intake arms and ducting.
WHAT KIND OF MACHINE DO YOU NEED TO PRINT THIS FILAMENT?
Print Temperature: 220-250°C depending on your printer (up to 270°C on some printers)
Bed Temperature 23-60°C
For adhesive, there are a few solutions out there, but packing tape has worked best for us.
Supports: Aquatek X1 Universal Support Material works, along with Aquasys 120
And again, you never need to dry this filament, which is a huge plus!
BASIC MATERIAL SPECS:
- Does not absorb moisture
- Excellent chemical resistance
- Low density/light weight
- High strength and stiffness
- Ease of printing - suitable for use on practically any 3D printer
As with all carbon-fiber filaments, they will wear out a brass nozzle VERY fast -- we highly recommend one of our hardened steel nozzles, at visionminer.com/nozzles
Chemical Resistance:
Acids: Acetic, Boric, Hydrochloric, Phosphoric, Stearic, Sulfuric, Uric
Bases: Hydroxides of Ammonium, Barium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Sodium
Solvents: Acetone, Ethanol, MEK, Phenol (10%), Water
Check out our other videos for the full comparisons! At Vision Miner, we specialize in Functional 3D printing, especially high-performance plastics like PEEK, ULTEM, PPSU, PPS, CFPA, and more. We also have extensive experience with 3D scanners, and a whole array of solutions available for purchase. If you're interested in using functional 3D printing and materials in your business, feel free to reach out, and we can help you make the right choice for your application.
Call 833-774-6863 or email contact@visionminer.com, and we're here to help!
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Awesome stuff! Great review!
So if I ever need to 3D print a candle wick, I know what to use. :P
Yessss!!! Finally!!! 😍😍😍😍
Lol finallly cheers
:)
How does this stuff perform in warm-hot environments (65-95C)?
Thanks for the great products and videos!
Watched the video a 3rd time and answered my own question =) @2:30 in
By the way, I would really recommend using Magigoo PP stick for bed adhesion. I managed to print it on regular Prusa MK3S textured PEI bed with almost no warping with that thing. Freaking black magic!
I also tried printing it on scotch tape or PP sheets. It results in part permanently fusing with the bed, impossible to peel it off afterwards without either ruining the part, or destroying the print bed
Wow; Thanks for the heads up.
Have you tried nano polymer with it ?
@@CC-kc5lb I didn't, but VM said themselves that their nano polymer adhesive doesn't work with PP
just put standard painters tape or glue stick as a first layer then pp tape on top, makes it easy to peel off
I'm kind of curious, what would be the best type of filament for exterior car trims? An example would be fog light covers.
ASA is commonly used on plastic exterior car parts so that might be your best bet.
@@VisionMiner Thats what I was thinking of using, that and some PP+CF for engine parts, like an intake. I'm just skeptical with ASA, isnt there toxic fumes to be concerned with when printing?
Compared to other filaments like abs, is it lighter in weight? If yes how much lighter? If not, what filament can I use that's light in weight compared to other materials
It is about 10% less dense than ABS
Okay, after trying out some filament, i noticed when i loaded it, it oozed out really fast and made popping noise, exactly like wet nylon. I tried printing extrusion multiplier tests, and even measuring the filament diameter (1.75mm) my extrusion mult/flow rate had to be set to 0.8 or 80% or less to get the proper thickness for extrusion. I also noticed that the walls are filled with lots of holes, and it looked extremely rough. Do you know why this happens? Also, this stuff seems extremely brittle, but has great layer adhesion considering it has 15% carbon fibers. Its also lighter and more blueish than my pa-cf filament.
same thing. lots of bubbles and foaming, looks like a wet cf nylon. 24h of drying seems to help a ton as the extrusion is now very smooth but still not perfect and some big bubbles are still present.........
@@thrawn86 I dried mine for 8 hrs + 1 hr at 100c (melted the spool) still super stringy. Helped a little, but seems super problematic. I swear the guys I got this filament from left the filament in a flood for 3 years.
@@thrawn86 try cutting the filament open. On 2 of my spools, there were pores inside the filament. I double checked by cutting multiple times and incorporating filaments I know that don't have issues like this, and the others didn't have pores, the ppcf did.
So i think the porosity is due to the brittleness of the filament. It does seem to ooze. I got a replacement spool from 3DXTech, and had similar oozing and pores in the filament, but the replacement didnt string or fizzle
Perdeu muito as propriedades do PP, não achei interessante o material 😞
❤️ULTEM 1000❤️
which material is best for ash trays?
glass
Something tells me that the strength of PPCF could be based on slightly different parameters than the test your doing. Even though your test may not show this material to be as strong as, say; PCTG, or tuff under the same test. It does reveal that this material does not always break "Uneformaly", along the printed layers. It puts up a fight Unelateroly which may be an improvement to, say; PLA, which simply breaks or cracks. For example; you can not drill or tape PLA, whereas you probably can drill and tap PPCF. However; you may not have to drill PCTG, Nylon, or Delrin if you can print parts with the holes where you need them, and you surely don't have to "Tap" the holes afterward, because those materials are so tuff you can just drive the screws in with "Reckless Abandonment", and everything will be just fine. However; it looks like you would have to Tap the treads for PPCF, in order to avoid structural cracking, like with PolystyrenE or ABS. "Of course; my main concern is Price"? And is this material an economical trade-off for mechanically working prototypes?
There of is subjective, once again depends on what your using said material for. If TTS then absolutely consider another material altogether. TNE just may fall responsibly on gent like yourself as if took notion and would be appreciated by one as myself because consideration.
How is it compare to PA+CF ??
CFPA6 is an overall more robust and easier-to-print filament, but some special applications may need the chemical resistance of PP :)
@@VisionMiner Would ppcf be an alternative to pa6-cf if you dont want a drybox to print the filament out of?
@@VisionMiner Does it creep like Nylon?
Seems to me that the CF actually takes away the physical properties that you would choose PP for.
For some properties yes, however considering the difficulty printing PP in the first place, this will still get some of the properties while making larger parts possible. Mostly --- chemical resistance :)
@@VisionMiner All you need to remember is PP ONLY STICKS TO PP and you'll be fine
🏳️🌈
I just bought a roll of this and feel I’m going to be very disappointed.
@@JayBoogiePOV how'd it go?
Is anyone producing filaments with basalt fiber and polymer? If not, can you ask some company to try it?
technically possible but that will require a totally different printer. You should look for continuous long fiber filament printing.
Like Markforged, Anisoprint, DesktopMetal, and a few others. All these printers use a continuous fiber embedded into a 'matrix' of thermoplastic resin, mostly Nylon PA12 or PA6 or some sort of.
There are other 3D Printers which adopt the more conventional wet filament deposition, often using a UV curable resin which hardens when being exposed to a strong UV light, immediately after deposition. Sometimes the extruder is also followed by a roller/pressor which helps the adhesion of the fibers.
Why are you interested in basalt fiber? I'd been quite a precursor of the basalt fibers in the marine industry, we actually developed the very first basalt fiber laminated sails.
And we also built a few boats and other parts. Less performing and heavier than CF, at least it's a natural material and in replacement to glass-fiber it can be safely disposed as an inert.
It also has some interesting fire resistance properties, and much higher heath resistance (920°C). Unfortunately its beautiful bronze gloss look turns into a dull black once impregnated.
Maybe a thermoplastic matrix could preserve the aesthetics as well.
@@pavel5939 I think Basalt Fiber has also better strength than Glass Fiber. Interested in making vanes for wind turbines with Basalt Fiber.
@@aristeidislykas7163 Yes, sure. I didn't mention that. It's not so significantly stronger but has some 20/25% better mechanical properties than glass.
And if you're interested in wind turbines, that's an excellent field of application for basalt fibers. Due to its inherited vibration damping (it's a rock) and also because it remains an inert and so far is perfectly disposable. Carbon fiber can't be used because of resonance issues and glass fiber can't be recycled, fullstop. In fact, they bury thousands of windmill blades every year. That's a huge environmental issue.
@@pavel5939 Wow! I did not now that Basalt Fiber has good vibration-dampening qualities. Thanks for the info. What is the name of your company?
You probably sell a lot more if you did some sort of scientific process to this whole equation, put a scale on it or something. Compare it to other filaments, anything...
Sans “Clumping”, Much longer, thinner strands for the carbon fiber would most probably needed for actual Strength(“structurally reinforcing-ly” speaking😉.. almost everywhere I See cf used, it Seems to be forced to act more like a structural inhibitor/abrasive powder than a reinforcing fiber..🤙🏻
my friend bought me 4 spools. without knowing what it is. welp
So basically you have ruined the properties of PP and turned it into a less usefull plastic
This is mostly for chemical resistance, as opposed to living hinges ---- but I totally get your point, hahaha!