Still using my fuel cap now for 18 months. No issues. Wheel spacers? My bike has 15k on it and spacers are fine. Funnel Web filter Product Code: FWF430. Is used in the Australian models. Cool covers UK make a custom fit cover for the seat. Put a cable tie [loosely] around the front fork then go for a ride. You will then see how much of the suspension travel you are using. Also there is a mistake in the instructions to do compression and rebound. Compression is at the top of fork and rebound setting at bottom of fork. AJP are correcting the manual shortly.
"it has to pass the swelling o-ring.." That sentence had me outright gasping for air xD Loved the wardrobe choice, real Hough Heffner right there! Keep the videos coming, always a highlight to my day when i get the notification. As to the realization of the suspension, i could not agree more. I to would rather have a more plush suspension for 95% of the riding i am doing. I find my transalp to be soft when i really get going, but again for 95% of my riding it is really nice.
thx for the video. Stock air filter is not paper, but reusable cotton, I use a prefilter so it keeps clean for a long term; spacers: 20.000 km and in great shape. Seat one of the best I have ever had in an adv bike but I understand that for tall people a taller one is good for your knees. Cold start issues, I also suffered it, it has been solved using 98 oct. petrol. Suspension great for me (70 kg) thx again for the video
i set my suspension up for my weight and fast riding without luggage. this allows me to carry luggage at a decent but slower pace. which stands to reason you want to push the limits a bit more without luggage, ride fast do some jumps. where on an adv ride loaded up with gear you want to be a bit more cautious, dial the pace back a bit but you also don't want an out out of control wallowy bike if you hit some rough stuff.
I'd recommend to change those stock grips. The red bit is SUPER hard plastic and any technical riding will destroy your thumb quickly. They used to come on Husky and KTM enduro bikes and they are horrific. On a personal level, I love the Renthal Kevlar, but any decent MX soft grip will do, or the foam ProGrip ones.
Half way there with the springs i say... Then play with the suspension clickers. Max them up when you are rallying and soften them then you are touring. That way you can at leas cut out the worst bottoming. I heard the stock Öhlins PR7 setup is a bit on the harsh side.
Hey Johannes! I was all set to hit the northern trails (TET in Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, and Sweden) on my H701 this season. But your enthusiasm made me call the PR7 dealership instead. António Pinto should really give you a bonus for promoting the PR7 so well! :) PS: Needed to lower my footpegs, and 'Bosley's Pegs' found through Google was a big help. Might help you too!
Hey Jakub! That sounds like an excellent trip, the Baltic countries were absolutely fantastic. I appreciate your kind words and trust, does that mean you're about to get a PR7 to replace your 701? I will hopefully meet Antonio and the rest of the AJP crew when I go to Portugal again in October. I've had several Bosley pegs, they're excellent and Radan is a very nice guy. I don't think he makes lowered pegs for the PR7 though, but haven't spent too much time yet researching.
@@JohannesDalenMC Yeah, I had a chance to check out this motorcycle earlier this week. Given my height (195 cm) and weight (around 100 kg), I've found the 701 to be quite comfortable for me, especially with Bosley's Pegs that are lowered by 30mm, in addition to a higher seat. This setup ensures comfort during longer rides. However, for PR7, it seems quite challenging to install lowered pegs, and finding a suitable seat might also present some difficulties. Aside from these concerns, the other aspects of this bike are absolutely wonderful. This is where I encounter a challenge.
Lowering the pegs on the PR7 is definitely a challenge. I've ridden my bike a lot the past few days, and while it is a slightly cramped position, I think I'll get used to it. Lowered pegs also mean they'll hit rocks and obstacles quicker when the terrain gets technical. A taller seat would be nice.
When you replace the springs, remember to put proportionately more viscous oil (cSt @ 40 degrees) and it should be fine. Don't be like me and pour he stock oil ;) Assuming the stock oil damps the stock springs well, otherwise (if clickers are not enough) this also needs to be considered.
Are there any other mods that I should have done to the PR7? Most riders do handguards (stock ones doesn't have metal backbone), crash bars (I'm not a fan of those, on pretty much any bike), and I'm sure there's more. - Johannes
I go by the, fix the obvious and fix what you find down the road approach. Tossing heaps of money on something you might not need is an all around bad idea. Test the bike and find its weakness :)
I ordered crash bars - the shop sent Norden 901 bars.. !?! Full refund but I figured I'd try without - saw another utuber who noted despite drops the handlebars to bash plate covered ..? In Oz we get Polisport (?) metal handguards - very much like Barkbusters.. And we get Michelin Tracker tyres - great for dirt, 'interesting' on road 😂
That orage frame looks like the culprit on the TwinAir, I bet the edge get sucked into the air box and let particles through. Great video, I am looking to buy a PR7 as a travel bike
If money were no object, what would you buy? Custom build? Seems like issues with PR7 are solvable - starting and suspension. Baffling why the CRF450RL was not perfected when first launched.
I think a 690 build by Lyndon Poskitt, that would have been awesome! But I'm loving the PR7 so far. Perhaps a 500 ligthweight adv build if I didn't have this portuguese stallion.
Brilliant vids on the PR7, thanks. I'm about to buy one...but I'm a similar height to you and worried about low seat/high pegs. Did you ever come up with a solution for lowering the pegs?
Thank you! I was told by the norwegian importer that AJP sell lowered pegs from factory. I got used to them being high rather quickly, and on this last big trip I rode my friends T7 with lowered pegs, hit a rock on my right foot and it twisted outwards. Pain was serious. Even though the PR7 is much taller from the ground than the T7, I wouldn't lower the pegs. I raised the seat by 2-3 cm and that was nice. I would think twice about lowered pegs on any bike. On a GS that sees 90% road, sure, but the PR7 is designed to be ridden offroad!
@@JohannesDalenMC 100% agree on not lowering pegs..ok, thanks, really appreciate the response. So get the seat into a decent upholster (or are there decent aftermarket options?), and fit a set of bar risers. Current ride is a Honda CRF450L which is really tall, suits me well, but I feel I need to scratch my PR7 itch!!👍
I upholstered it myself but it didn't turn out very good, the seat is quite unique with lots of curves and difficult to make it nice. Same with risers actually, they make you instantly more comfy, but I would argue they don't really help with technique. Sure we're adventure riders and we don't need to be in the ultimate "attack position" at all times, when we're just exploring. The front is already a bit vague due to the tank being in the rear and not putting weight on the front, if you add risers you might contribute to that vague feeling. You miles may vary though, but I skipped the risers altogether. Best of luck with a new bike, it's a hoot for sure! 😁
Awesome video as always Johannes :) the pr7 looks such a cool bike, your insight on the T7 suspension upgrade is fascinating, I experienced the same on the 300 Rally the pendulum swung to far in the other direction regarding comfort, so I'm mindful not to do the same on the T7. We just got our first euro 4 Tenere an started looking at things to get for it :) really enjoying it so far an even wandered down a green lane within 30 mins an I'm a reluctant green laner super suprised me.
Fuel filter. Would a external filter help ? Or something in the tank neck ? Cool Covers do a cover for the PR7 before you start chopping the seat. Suspension. Chasing perfection is like chasing the honest politician !
It raises it slightly. The main advantage is that the mesh moves under you so you are not flat spotting onto the seat. So me on T7. Rally seat and standard height pegs , although did move to SW Motech wider pegs after a year. Cool Cover was cherry on cake moment. All day comfort. Plus cools during summer and drains the rain. Bit chilly on occasions. On the PR7 , looks like good seat / peg length. Have done seat padding on the GS. Memory Foam better than gel.
Hi there, You have a 2023 model I assume, with an Athena ECU? I don't have a cold start issue, but I did when the valve clearance was out of the specs. Still, I will suggest one thing- after turning the ignition on, wait for like 30 seconds or so, and just after that push the starter button it does help for me and it starts with no problem every time after the second or third turn of the engine.
Hello there my friend! I have a 22, but it has the Athena. I've already tried the 30 sec "waking up the battery" procedure without any difference at all. I will check the valves in a couple of hundred KMs or so. My bike barely start at third push, and my bike sits inside my house where its well above 20 degrees😅
@@JohannesDalenMC Interesting. Mine is a 2022 as well and after a little problem with the very first start, it was going perfect for 10K kilometers. Then when the 10K km was performed the clearance somehow went a little bit the wrong way and I started to get nightmares with the cold starts. With a good friend of mine, we decided that it must be a valve clearance issue, and guess what? It was, now everything is back to perfection and the bike starts with no problem, but I do the 30-second waiting time. Hope you will sort it out. Good luck!
Fuel cap: I had some struggle to get it out so I cut some pieces out of the O-ring :D What I consider mandatory mods: replace the mirrors, the stock ones could easily break, handguards: stock ones are not bad but I have broke, bent both of my levers. Wheel spacers: I have done it as well. Air filter: thanks for the info! I have also replaced the stock grips with a heated and more comfortable ones. Why are you in bathrobe? :)
Loved the bathrobe rambling Johannes, less is more with this bike and as You say, it comes ready for the trails. I remeber i hated to fuel it up with the stock fuelcap, definitely a must upgrade. I will actually ride PR7 this summer, look forward to it ✊🏻✊🏻. Keep it up and hope to meet You on the trails. ☕🤌🏻
That's awesome Jack! I've been having a total blast on mine for the past month. It's an excellent bike, from suspension to engine. Currently adjusting the valves after 1000km. To quote a riding buddy that knows how to ride: The PR7 is easily the most capable adv bike out there. You'll love it!
@@JohannesDalenMC I basically pick it up, bring it back to my home, download it, ride it for a week, load it up again and off to Tuscany for some great riding. Looking forward to seeing what I like and don't like and which of your recommended changes I will go with. Cheers, GS Jack
It seems like you would get a lot of induction noise from the engine with that airbox location? How is it? That’s something I did not like on the WR450F.
Remember to use a filter oil destined for cotton air filters. The original filter is Green Air Filter, and Green have oil for it, but as said use a filter oil for cotton air filters. I do not think that the prefilter cannot use the same oil. Secondly remember to orientate the original filter correctly, the arrow on the side needs to point downwards.
@@JohannesDalenMC dont think it will do any harm….”think, not knowing”. But the prefilter may use the oil for cotton filters too …i think. And when cleaning the original filter, keep adequate distance to compressed air
Hva tenker du om bagasjeløsning til denne? Jeg har noen Enduristand Monsoon Evo som er utrolig praktiske i det daglige, men det ser ut som et skikkelig pannier-rack til PR7 er vanskelig å oppdrive så for min del ser det ut som jeg må bytte ut alle bagene om jeg går over til PR7 ...
@@runevikan Just a quick update, another viewer just commented that the standard filter uses a different oil than foam filters. So I may very well have been completely wrong! 😆
@@nicolasghislain2332 I subsquently tried the 701 and it feels much bigger / roomier and you can have a high seat option. Can add a tower to this and create an adventure spec machine. The PR7 is small and I've sadly had to say no to a purchase even with permission to buy! . I have an AT which is set up for off road but its a tough ride and heavy beast come wet trail time
Hi Johannes, how do you find the foot peg position? I'm planning to get a PR7 but have heard that it can feel a bit cramped - especially when taller. I'm 185cm and I think you are taller.
Hello there Keith! I am 194, it's definitely a bit cramped, but I got quickly used to it. I'm currently reupholstering the seat adding another 5 cm. While it may be on the cramped side when just riding relaxed, it's great for the technical stuff - huge amount of ground clearance and pegs don't hit anything since they're so high up. AJP sells a 2cm lowered foot peg kit as well, so lots of options. I went with seat first because I don't want lowered pegs unless I have to. Had lowered pegs on my T7 and after a trip in the enduro course the pegs had hit about every rock.
@@JohannesDalenMC Wow you are a tall guy! I felt my T7 was a bit cramped on a long ride with the standard seat (it's the rally edition) and I ended up buying a touratech seat which adds 20mm and that sorted it. I'm glad to hear that AJP offer a lower peg -20mm I think is all I'd need. I think you'll be raising the bars too I'd imagine?
Taller bars would make standing more comfortable, but I try to avoid risers if I can. Especially on a bike that doesn't have the tank upfront, as it isn't as much weight on the front as a bike like the T7. On the 701 the front wiped out a few times because I didn't have enough weight on the front while turning.
Johannes, how would you compare the vibrations in the handle bars and the foot pegs between the drz400s, 701 enduro and the AJP pr7? Which one is smoother? Is there a big difference between them?
Good question, been quite some time since I rode the DRZ and 701, but I'd say the 701 and PR7 are both very good for thumpers. The DRZ is much more vibey. Depends on what you're used to - I recall the first time I rode the 701 (first time riding a thumper), and I was just blown away with how vibey it was compared to my T7 at the time, but now I couldn't be bothered with the vibrations really. Being blown around by the crosswinds is much more annoying!
Hello Johannes! Thank you for a good answer! I asked because the only one of them I have ridden is the Drz400s and I really didn't enjoy the vibrations at higher speed. If you had to rank them in order from 1-3, from smoothest to roughest, how would you place them? Also if the 701 had a wider gear box and was smoother from get go, would you consider one over the Ajp? Or are you done with that platform?
Always good to see you Johannes. 75 kilos? That’s me! Stick some stamps on the bike and send to Australia please! Isn’t it funny that dirt bike designers can’t get details like fuel caps right? My KTM has a very similar problem. Also…is this becoming a fashion channel? 😂
Man needs a touratech catalog. 😂😂😂 The starting issue must be a bit of an thing with the old Husky engine, my mate has a SWM with the same engine and he says it is a bitch of a thing to start at times and it don’t get Norway cold in Australia. He did change the mufflers which did help but it is not perfect and as far as I know, according to him anyway, you can’t reprogram the ECU to richen it up a smidge, I guess they are set on the lean side to pass emissions tests. You can always try to fit a Mikuni TM 40 pumper carb and never have a problem again, just like Lyndon on his 690. 😂😂😂😂😂 Best modification you can make to any bike is the tyres, try wearing them out, mainly by riding the bloody thing .😂😂😂 Good onya mate. 👍👍👍
So the cold starting issue applies to the SWM bikes with the same engine, that's very interesting. I've read some state that tight (within spec though) exhaust valves can be the reason - what do you think, with all your mechanical knowledge, does this make any sense? Other solutions are more powerful batteries, although the one I have is supposed to be quite powerful. There's a handful of other things that I'll cover in the upcoming videos. Hope all is well my dear friend!
@@JohannesDalenMC valve clearance is not so much of an issue on a cold start, providing the clearance is within spec, more of a hot start issue, as the engine gets hot and metal expands the clearance becomes less, especially the exhaust valves as they get much hotter. If the clearance is insufficient the exhaust valve will not seal creating a drop in compression with the side effect of the exhaust valve burning out because it can’t transfer the heat to the cylinder head. Cold start is more of a fuel air mixture issue, the normal ratio is around the 11-12 to 1 ratio, cold start if around 14 to 1 ratio or higher. Cold start could also be the cold cranking amp of the battery is not high enough, batteries work more efficiently with heat, I did see a guy on RUclips having problems with a KTM 500 who fitted a more powerful battery that seemed to fix the issue, it cranked over much quicker, the cold cranking amps are the secret, Lithium batteries don’t work so good when cold, lead acid is more reliable when cold, or so I am lead to believe. Interesting experiment to try is next time you try to start it cold put your hand over the air intake, this will effectively choke the air supply causing a richer mixture, it will indicate a lean air fuel ratio. You can also try a hair dryer to warm up the battery, see if that will crank the engine faster, an old trick was to wrap the battery with an electric blanket overnight to get older cars to start in the morning and stop the battery from losing charge overnight.
Thanks a bunch, that's very interesting! The first 30 seconds after start up it smokes like crazy, which leads me to believe it's rather richly fueled upon startup, and then it disappears completely. In terms of battery, it does sound like it struggles badly to just turn the engine over, it sounds like it is going in slow-mo. I know AJP upgraded the battery at some point, to deal with this. Some PR7 owners are reporting that they're turning the ignition on for a couple of minutes, "warming" the battery, and this has helped many. I store my bike indoors at around 20 degrees and start it up right after I've brought it outside. This can't be considered cold, even if theres just a couple of degrees outside, can it? I'll continue to experiment, it's actually getting a bit better already. Starts on the third press and not fourth, haha!
@@JohannesDalenMC what colour smoke ? Black is fuel and blue is oil. I found a trick with a BMW G650 that I rented that in the morning for a cold start it was a bitch then I twisted the throttle a few times and it would start no problem, it was like it reset the starting circuit for the TPS, throttle position sensor. FI is an unknown in my book, I do so prefer carbs, a lot easier to diagnose an issue and to fix an issue, 😂😂😂😂 old skool .
The smoke is mostly grey I'd say. Like a two-stroke almost. I'll do some more experimenting and we'll see how it goes - I'm glad it isn't a carbie, even if it would be easier to deal with the cold starting issues. Haha!
Interesting as always. How much does tires affect the comfort on the tarmac (and off the tarmac)? PS I still hope to be able to get in touch with you somehow.
Are you going to be riding in that bath robe?... 😁🤣 We have too make our bike, our own. No bike is a unicorn and no bike fits all riders' size or needs...so mod away and get out there for rides, lots of rides.
Still using my fuel cap now for 18 months. No issues. Wheel spacers? My bike has 15k on it and spacers are fine. Funnel Web filter Product Code: FWF430. Is used in the Australian models. Cool covers UK make a custom fit cover for the seat. Put a cable tie [loosely] around the front fork then go for a ride. You will then see how much of the suspension travel you are using. Also there is a mistake in the instructions to do compression and rebound. Compression is at the top of fork and rebound setting at bottom of fork. AJP are correcting the manual shortly.
"it has to pass the swelling o-ring.." That sentence had me outright gasping for air xD Loved the wardrobe choice, real Hough Heffner right there! Keep the videos coming, always a highlight to my day when i get the notification.
As to the realization of the suspension, i could not agree more. I to would rather have a more plush suspension for 95% of the riding i am doing. I find my transalp to be soft when i really get going, but again for 95% of my riding it is really nice.
Haha yeah I realized that as I said it. The dirt doesn't stand a chance against the now swelled up o-ring! 🤣
thx for the video. Stock air filter is not paper, but reusable cotton, I use a prefilter so it keeps clean for a long term; spacers: 20.000 km and in great shape. Seat one of the best I have ever had in an adv bike but I understand that for tall people a taller one is good for your knees. Cold start issues, I also suffered it, it has been solved using 98 oct. petrol. Suspension great for me (70 kg) thx again for the video
i set my suspension up for my weight and fast riding without luggage. this allows me to carry luggage at a decent but slower pace. which stands to reason you want to push the limits a bit more without luggage, ride fast do some jumps. where on an adv ride loaded up with gear you want to be a bit more cautious, dial the pace back a bit but you also don't want an out out of control wallowy bike if you hit some rough stuff.
I'd recommend to change those stock grips. The red bit is SUPER hard plastic and any technical riding will destroy your thumb quickly.
They used to come on Husky and KTM enduro bikes and they are horrific. On a personal level, I love the Renthal Kevlar, but any decent MX soft grip will do, or the foam ProGrip ones.
Domino grips have a huge range - these are a two-tone (black and red) yet these are not hard plastic, they're quite soft and grippy on my 2023 Oz bike
The only other mod I would suggest for you is to maybe put up some pictures or paintings in that room. Those bare walls are driving me nuts! 😁
Half way there with the springs i say... Then play with the suspension clickers. Max them up when you are rallying and soften them then you are touring. That way you can at leas cut out the worst bottoming. I heard the stock Öhlins PR7 setup is a bit on the harsh side.
Hey Johannes! I was all set to hit the northern trails (TET in Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, and Sweden) on my H701 this season. But your enthusiasm made me call the PR7 dealership instead. António Pinto should really give you a bonus for promoting the PR7 so well! :)
PS: Needed to lower my footpegs, and 'Bosley's Pegs' found through Google was a big help. Might help you too!
Hey Jakub! That sounds like an excellent trip, the Baltic countries were absolutely fantastic. I appreciate your kind words and trust, does that mean you're about to get a PR7 to replace your 701? I will hopefully meet Antonio and the rest of the AJP crew when I go to Portugal again in October.
I've had several Bosley pegs, they're excellent and Radan is a very nice guy. I don't think he makes lowered pegs for the PR7 though, but haven't spent too much time yet researching.
@@JohannesDalenMC Yeah, I had a chance to check out this motorcycle earlier this week. Given my height (195 cm) and weight (around 100 kg), I've found the 701 to be quite comfortable for me, especially with Bosley's Pegs that are lowered by 30mm, in addition to a higher seat. This setup ensures comfort during longer rides. However, for PR7, it seems quite challenging to install lowered pegs, and finding a suitable seat might also present some difficulties. Aside from these concerns, the other aspects of this bike are absolutely wonderful. This is where I encounter a challenge.
Lowering the pegs on the PR7 is definitely a challenge. I've ridden my bike a lot the past few days, and while it is a slightly cramped position, I think I'll get used to it. Lowered pegs also mean they'll hit rocks and obstacles quicker when the terrain gets technical. A taller seat would be nice.
When you replace the springs, remember to put proportionately more viscous oil (cSt @ 40 degrees) and it should be fine. Don't be like me and pour he stock oil ;)
Assuming the stock oil damps the stock springs well, otherwise (if clickers are not enough) this also needs to be considered.
Are there any other mods that I should have done to the PR7? Most riders do handguards (stock ones doesn't have metal backbone), crash bars (I'm not a fan of those, on pretty much any bike), and I'm sure there's more.
- Johannes
I go by the, fix the obvious and fix what you find down the road approach. Tossing heaps of money on something you might not need is an all around bad idea. Test the bike and find its weakness :)
I ordered crash bars - the shop sent Norden 901 bars.. !?! Full refund but I figured I'd try without - saw another utuber who noted despite drops the handlebars to bash plate covered ..?
In Oz we get Polisport (?) metal handguards - very much like Barkbusters..
And we get Michelin Tracker tyres - great for dirt, 'interesting' on road 😂
Only other mod is chinese Scott damper knock-off - so far it's fine😮
I recommend to swap the mirrors before they break.
Also heated grips could be useful in Norway :)
Use radiator protectors rather than the ungainly crash bars to keep the bike slim but protected?
That orage frame looks like the culprit on the TwinAir, I bet the edge get sucked into the air box and let particles through.
Great video, I am looking to buy a PR7 as a travel bike
I think the lip on the stock filter is keeping the dirt out. The twin air filter doesn’t have the rubber lip or gasket around the edge.👍
Excellent observation, that could very well be the reason why! Thank you!
@@JohannesDalenMC Is it possible to take the cotton filter out of its frame and then use that frame for the Twinair?
If money were no object, what would you buy? Custom build? Seems like issues with PR7 are solvable - starting and suspension. Baffling why the CRF450RL was not perfected when first launched.
I think a 690 build by Lyndon Poskitt, that would have been awesome!
But I'm loving the PR7 so far. Perhaps a 500 ligthweight adv build if I didn't have this portuguese stallion.
Brilliant vids on the PR7, thanks. I'm about to buy one...but I'm a similar height to you and worried about low seat/high pegs. Did you ever come up with a solution for lowering the pegs?
Thank you!
I was told by the norwegian importer that AJP sell lowered pegs from factory.
I got used to them being high rather quickly, and on this last big trip I rode my friends T7 with lowered pegs, hit a rock on my right foot and it twisted outwards. Pain was serious. Even though the PR7 is much taller from the ground than the T7, I wouldn't lower the pegs. I raised the seat by 2-3 cm and that was nice. I would think twice about lowered pegs on any bike. On a GS that sees 90% road, sure, but the PR7 is designed to be ridden offroad!
@@JohannesDalenMC 100% agree on not lowering pegs..ok, thanks, really appreciate the response. So get the seat into a decent upholster (or are there decent aftermarket options?), and fit a set of bar risers. Current ride is a Honda CRF450L which is really tall, suits me well, but I feel I need to scratch my PR7 itch!!👍
I upholstered it myself but it didn't turn out very good, the seat is quite unique with lots of curves and difficult to make it nice.
Same with risers actually, they make you instantly more comfy, but I would argue they don't really help with technique. Sure we're adventure riders and we don't need to be in the ultimate "attack position" at all times, when we're just exploring. The front is already a bit vague due to the tank being in the rear and not putting weight on the front, if you add risers you might contribute to that vague feeling. You miles may vary though, but I skipped the risers altogether.
Best of luck with a new bike, it's a hoot for sure! 😁
Når får vi se den andre motorsykkelen?
Nothing beats experience.
Much Enjoyment 👍😎
Awesome video as always Johannes :) the pr7 looks such a cool bike, your insight on the T7 suspension upgrade is fascinating, I experienced the same on the 300 Rally the pendulum swung to far in the other direction regarding comfort, so I'm mindful not to do the same on the T7.
We just got our first euro 4 Tenere an started looking at things to get for it :) really enjoying it so far an even wandered down a green lane within 30 mins an I'm a reluctant green laner super suprised me.
Stock paper/fiberfilters outperform aftermarket filters by a huge margin, both in filtration and flow.
Fuel filter. Would a external filter help ? Or something in the tank neck ? Cool Covers do a cover for the PR7 before you start chopping the seat. Suspension. Chasing perfection is like chasing the honest politician !
Would a cool cover increase the seat height?
It raises it slightly. The main advantage is that the mesh moves under you so you are not flat spotting onto the seat. So me on T7. Rally seat and standard height pegs , although did move to SW Motech wider pegs after a year. Cool Cover was cherry on cake moment. All day comfort. Plus cools during summer and drains the rain. Bit chilly on occasions. On the PR7 , looks like good seat / peg length. Have done seat padding on the GS. Memory Foam better than gel.
Hi there, You have a 2023 model I assume, with an Athena ECU? I don't have a cold start issue, but I did when the valve clearance was out of the specs. Still, I will suggest one thing- after turning the ignition on, wait for like 30 seconds or so, and just after that push the starter button it does help for me and it starts with no problem every time after the second or third turn of the engine.
Hello there my friend! I have a 22, but it has the Athena. I've already tried the 30 sec "waking up the battery" procedure without any difference at all. I will check the valves in a couple of hundred KMs or so. My bike barely start at third push, and my bike sits inside my house where its well above 20 degrees😅
@@JohannesDalenMC Interesting. Mine is a 2022 as well and after a little problem with the very first start, it was going perfect for 10K kilometers. Then when the 10K km was performed the clearance somehow went a little bit the wrong way and I started to get nightmares with the cold starts. With a good friend of mine, we decided that it must be a valve clearance issue, and guess what? It was, now everything is back to perfection and the bike starts with no problem, but I do the 30-second waiting time. Hope you will sort it out. Good luck!
No problem here at Sapphire Beach 🏖️ in summer in Oz ..
Fuel cap: I had some struggle to get it out so I cut some pieces out of the O-ring :D
What I consider mandatory mods: replace the mirrors, the stock ones could easily break, handguards: stock ones are not bad but I have broke, bent both of my levers.
Wheel spacers: I have done it as well.
Air filter: thanks for the info!
I have also replaced the stock grips with a heated and more comfortable ones.
Why are you in bathrobe? :)
Loved the bathrobe rambling Johannes, less is more with this bike and as You say, it comes ready for the trails. I remeber i hated to fuel it up with the stock fuelcap, definitely a must upgrade. I will actually ride PR7 this summer, look forward to it ✊🏻✊🏻. Keep it up and hope to meet You on the trails. ☕🤌🏻
Johannes, picking up my PR7 in 2 weeks.
That's awesome Jack! I've been having a total blast on mine for the past month. It's an excellent bike, from suspension to engine. Currently adjusting the valves after 1000km.
To quote a riding buddy that knows how to ride: The PR7 is easily the most capable adv bike out there. You'll love it!
@@JohannesDalenMC I basically pick it up, bring it back to my home, download it, ride it for a week, load it up again and off to Tuscany for some great riding. Looking forward to seeing what I like and don't like and which of your recommended changes I will go with. Cheers, GS Jack
Sounds amazing, say hello to Bocelli from me if you meet him 😁 Have a safe trip, let me know about it when you're home!
I did Morocco with a TwinAir filter in mine with no issues at all
It seems like you would get a lot of induction noise from the engine with that airbox location? How is it? That’s something I did not like on the WR450F.
Remember to use a filter oil destined for cotton air filters. The original filter is Green Air Filter, and Green have oil for it, but as said use a filter oil for cotton air filters. I do not think that the prefilter cannot use the same oil. Secondly remember to orientate the original filter correctly, the arrow on the side needs to point downwards.
Appreciate this information! Do you think the prefilter having "regular" filter oil on it will have any effect on the standard filter?
@@JohannesDalenMC dont think it will do any harm….”think, not knowing”. But the prefilter may use the oil for cotton filters too …i think. And when cleaning the original filter, keep adequate distance to compressed air
Anyone know what foam or foam stack AJP is using on their great seat?
Hva tenker du om bagasjeløsning til denne? Jeg har noen Enduristand Monsoon Evo som er utrolig praktiske i det daglige, men det ser ut som et skikkelig pannier-rack til PR7 er vanskelig å oppdrive så for min del ser det ut som jeg må bytte ut alle bagene om jeg går over til PR7 ...
Any concerns about the oiled prefilter being in contact with the paper filter?
Not really, as the stock paper filter is supposed to be oiled as well. Were you concerned about the oil ruining the paper?
@@JohannesDalenMCYes, was my uneducated concern :)
A good question, the filter oil is sticky and smells strong, I'm sure it would ruin regular paper filters over time! Not on this bike though 🙂
@@runevikan Just a quick update, another viewer just commented that the standard filter uses a different oil than foam filters. So I may very well have been completely wrong! 😆
Can anyone give us the measurement of seat to pegs distance? I’m 1m98 tall and I’m worried to be too cramped on this bike…
You're going to struggle.. I'm 195cm and rode one the other day and I made it look like a pit bike
@@paulmorris7836 thanks, so I have no choice to consider the Tenere…
@@nicolasghislain2332 I subsquently tried the 701 and it feels much bigger / roomier and you can have a high seat option. Can add a tower to this and create an adventure spec machine. The PR7 is small and I've sadly had to say no to a purchase even with permission to buy! . I have an AT which is set up for off road but its a tough ride and heavy beast come wet trail time
Hi Johannes, how do you find the foot peg position? I'm planning to get a PR7 but have heard that it can feel a bit cramped - especially when taller. I'm 185cm and I think you are taller.
Hello there Keith! I am 194, it's definitely a bit cramped, but I got quickly used to it. I'm currently reupholstering the seat adding another 5 cm. While it may be on the cramped side when just riding relaxed, it's great for the technical stuff - huge amount of ground clearance and pegs don't hit anything since they're so high up. AJP sells a 2cm lowered foot peg kit as well, so lots of options. I went with seat first because I don't want lowered pegs unless I have to. Had lowered pegs on my T7 and after a trip in the enduro course the pegs had hit about every rock.
@@JohannesDalenMC
Wow you are a tall guy! I felt my T7 was a bit cramped on a long ride with the standard seat (it's the rally edition) and I ended up buying a touratech seat which adds 20mm and that sorted it. I'm glad to hear that AJP offer a lower peg -20mm I think is all I'd need.
I think you'll be raising the bars too I'd imagine?
Taller bars would make standing more comfortable, but I try to avoid risers if I can. Especially on a bike that doesn't have the tank upfront, as it isn't as much weight on the front as a bike like the T7. On the 701 the front wiped out a few times because I didn't have enough weight on the front while turning.
@@JohannesDalenMC interesting feedback, I’ll explore and feedback if I get one. Need to sell my T7
Johannes, how would you compare the vibrations in the handle bars and the foot pegs between the drz400s, 701 enduro and the AJP pr7? Which one is smoother? Is there a big difference between them?
Good question, been quite some time since I rode the DRZ and 701, but I'd say the 701 and PR7 are both very good for thumpers. The DRZ is much more vibey. Depends on what you're used to - I recall the first time I rode the 701 (first time riding a thumper), and I was just blown away with how vibey it was compared to my T7 at the time, but now I couldn't be bothered with the vibrations really. Being blown around by the crosswinds is much more annoying!
Hello Johannes! Thank you for a good answer! I asked because the only one of them I have ridden is the Drz400s and I really didn't enjoy the vibrations at higher speed. If you had to rank them in order from 1-3, from smoothest to roughest, how would you place them? Also if the 701 had a wider gear box and was smoother from get go, would you consider one over the Ajp? Or are you done with that platform?
Always good to see you Johannes. 75 kilos? That’s me! Stick some stamps on the bike and send to Australia please! Isn’t it funny that dirt bike designers can’t get details like fuel caps right? My KTM has a very similar problem. Also…is this becoming a fashion channel? 😂
Is that the new klim dressing gown?
Even lined with kevlar!
I feel like i'm watching an ONlyFans channel. Anyway...oberon slave gizmo for clutch. fairly cheap, and you'll need it sooner than later.
Man needs a touratech catalog. 😂😂😂
The starting issue must be a bit of an thing with the old Husky engine, my mate has a SWM with the same engine and he says it is a bitch of a thing to start at times and it don’t get Norway cold in Australia.
He did change the mufflers which did help but it is not perfect and as far as I know, according to him anyway, you can’t reprogram the ECU to richen it up a smidge, I guess they are set on the lean side to pass emissions tests.
You can always try to fit a Mikuni TM 40 pumper carb and never have a problem again, just like Lyndon on his 690. 😂😂😂😂😂
Best modification you can make to any bike is the tyres, try wearing them out, mainly by riding the bloody thing .😂😂😂
Good onya mate. 👍👍👍
So the cold starting issue applies to the SWM bikes with the same engine, that's very interesting. I've read some state that tight (within spec though) exhaust valves can be the reason - what do you think, with all your mechanical knowledge, does this make any sense? Other solutions are more powerful batteries, although the one I have is supposed to be quite powerful. There's a handful of other things that I'll cover in the upcoming videos.
Hope all is well my dear friend!
@@JohannesDalenMC valve clearance is not so much of an issue on a cold start, providing the clearance is within spec, more of a hot start issue, as the engine gets hot and metal expands the clearance becomes less, especially the exhaust valves as they get much hotter.
If the clearance is insufficient the exhaust valve will not seal creating a drop in compression with the side effect of the exhaust valve burning out because it can’t transfer the heat to the cylinder head.
Cold start is more of a fuel air mixture issue, the normal ratio is around the 11-12 to 1 ratio, cold start if around 14 to 1 ratio or higher.
Cold start could also be the cold cranking amp of the battery is not high enough, batteries work more efficiently with heat, I did see a guy on RUclips having problems with a KTM 500 who fitted a more powerful battery that seemed to fix the issue, it cranked over much quicker, the cold cranking amps are the secret,
Lithium batteries don’t work so good when cold, lead acid is more reliable when cold, or so I am lead to believe.
Interesting experiment to try is next time you try to start it cold put your hand over the air intake, this will effectively choke the air supply causing a richer mixture, it will indicate a lean air fuel ratio.
You can also try a hair dryer to warm up the battery, see if that will crank the engine faster, an old trick was to wrap the battery with an electric blanket overnight to get older cars to start in the morning and stop the battery from losing charge overnight.
Thanks a bunch, that's very interesting!
The first 30 seconds after start up it smokes like crazy, which leads me to believe it's rather richly fueled upon startup, and then it disappears completely.
In terms of battery, it does sound like it struggles badly to just turn the engine over, it sounds like it is going in slow-mo. I know AJP upgraded the battery at some point, to deal with this. Some PR7 owners are reporting that they're turning the ignition on for a couple of minutes, "warming" the battery, and this has helped many. I store my bike indoors at around 20 degrees and start it up right after I've brought it outside. This can't be considered cold, even if theres just a couple of degrees outside, can it?
I'll continue to experiment, it's actually getting a bit better already. Starts on the third press and not fourth, haha!
@@JohannesDalenMC what colour smoke ? Black is fuel and blue is oil.
I found a trick with a BMW G650 that I rented that in the morning for a cold start it was a bitch then I twisted the throttle a few times and it would start no problem, it was like it reset the starting circuit for the TPS, throttle position sensor.
FI is an unknown in my book, I do so prefer carbs, a lot easier to diagnose an issue and to fix an issue, 😂😂😂😂 old skool .
The smoke is mostly grey I'd say. Like a two-stroke almost.
I'll do some more experimenting and we'll see how it goes - I'm glad it isn't a carbie, even if it would be easier to deal with the cold starting issues. Haha!
Thanks for not selling out to TA
Interesting as always. How much does tires affect the comfort on the tarmac (and off the tarmac)?
PS I still hope to be able to get in touch with you somehow.
Thank you Stefan! If you want to get in touch you can send me an e-mail to the address written in the description box 🙂
Nothing worse than a swelling "O" ring.
That could be interpreted in many different ways, you'll have to explain before I give a reply, haha!
@@JohannesDalenMC Just my English sense of humour!
Are you going to be riding in that bath robe?... 😁🤣 We have too make our bike, our own. No bike is a unicorn and no bike fits all riders' size or needs...so mod away and get out there for rides, lots of rides.
What if I told you the bathrobe is lined with kevlar? 😉
@@JohannesDalenMC where can I get one 😎
bruh...what's with the robe?