This video was perfect, and explained exactly what I needed to see. Hint: Watch it through all the way before you start!! Thanks guys, awesome job, I can't believe this actually fixed my problem, I usually have much worse luck on cars.
@@dmkelly5491 thank you for the excellent feedback and that rocks you knocked it out without any issues! Hope its smooth from here on out for you! Let us know if you have any other questions!
Awesome! When you get to doing this, give a shout back if you have a moment- would love to know your experience and see how it goes! Do you have the 1.6L or 2.0L?
Thank you! I have 1.6 I think this may be my problem. I’ve had light come on randomly with this code for a while now .i an a 69 yr old gimpy lol female. Going to try this. Thanks again! I’ll let you know 👍
I have the 2.0 L , ordered the part today. Hope it solves the issue. I brought car to Advanced Auto and their printout showed wastegate solenoid needed replacing
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews it started after I had the Purge Solenoid and Map sensor replaced. After test driving it, Service Engine Now came on ( big square display). When it came on, the car was idling rough. I stopped car, restarted it then took to Advance Auto, that's where it showed it to be the Wastegate Solenoid
@@mysterious716 ya every I put gas in car it wouldn't start right ...learned to pump the accelerator after starting....after few seconds it would run . It developed another problem soon after I replaced waste gate solenoid and purge valve. It had no power accelerating uphill... finally brought it to the auto shop. They replaced the Mapt sensor...runs good now....hope this helps you
Do you have to connect the hoses or is it okay to just replace the solenoid? It's a 60 dollar difference so I figure the new hoses are worth it just to be safe? Just wondering
You know, I didn't. I did notice that as well and have been keeping an eye on the oil level. Doesnt seem to be wet up top. Hoping its something simple like a valve cover gasket and not the turbo or anything serious. Any idea about your situation? Thanks for asking
Im getting extremely confused on this. From my understanding and what im reading, what youre saying is the wastegate solenoid on the 2.0 is just the boost pressure solenoid, ive read that the wastegate solenoid for the 2.0 is on the turbo itself but i cant find any info on it. Any help is greatly appreciated. I replaced the top side one on my 2.0 and still have the code.
I've been following you for 2 years and your app has been a lifesaver! I'm planning on replacing this on my 2013 2.0L as well as the bpv while I'm at it. Would you happen to know the part number or if it's the same as the 1.6L?
Thank you so much for the great feedback on the app! I can't tell you how much I appreciate that you use it. There was a lot of time and energy the went into it and it's sure nice to hear! So you're just asking for the 2.0L part number for the wastegate solenoid? Just want to make sure- thank you again for the great feedback!
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I was able to easily find the right solenoid, but since the turbo bypass valve is inches away I'd like to change it, too. Been getting P0299 and cant find any leaks in any hoses. I have 150K+ miles and think they've just ran their course. I found old videos here and there saying Ford tries to sell the turbo wholesale when there IS a bpv but I can't find a source to verify part numbers. Any insight?
Hey! So after doing a bit of research I came up with this part number: CJ5Z-9U465-A, which I THINK is the same as the 1.6L as is posted in this really informative thread here on the forum post linked below. The guy had a very similar question to you, and ended up buying the 1.6L part to test it out, found a variation on the part number (update, rev, etc), and said it worked out for him despite Tasca parts telling him it wasn't compatible with his '13 2.0L EcoBoost. Take a look and check it out. Was the best I could confirm www.fordescape.org/threads/2013-1-6l-ecoboost-turbo-bypass-valve-bpv-stock-part-number.116146/
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I came across his video but got kind of mixed signals. Already have this one ordered. Will report back as to whether this works in my 2.0L!
Hi! I was just wondering if you will be able to make that replacement video for the mechanism that closes and locks the back rear left door? I finally have the part, and I have the tools for it I just cant find a tutorial thats very good. I can only find one and the guy rambles too much in it for me to follow along (adhd). I figured id ask you before I try to use that guys tutorial, ill be using your "how to take a door apart" video for a majority of it tho
Hey there @RealShawneeSays - shoot- I'm sorry about dropping the ball on that - just got the car back from getting a new transmission and have been in a mental hole getting it all back up to running condition but yes I can still do that- can you shoot me a private message our fb page and we can go over a bit more details there maybe?
Thanks for the data, I have the 2.0 ecoboost and I'm finding that after changing the solenoids on the bottom side with the brand new turbo and the top side with a new solenoid I've changed other sensors. Just not the ones that are connected to the throttle body because I'm under the impression on the 2.0 ecoboost it is a all-in-one unit. Any advice for me for my next step I would have greatly appreciate it
Getting as fluttering noise from my intake on my 2013 Fusion 2.0 eco boost. Not sure this is normal but when you lightly accelerate and let off the gas you hear a fluttering sound from the intake. Is this normal with these cars? its not loud at all but just converned. Thank you in advance. (No check engine codes)
@@jaybourbon8608 there should be a tad of fluttering noise if you have an ecoboost engine. Its pretty subtle though with the stock setups. The noise after letting up on the gas makes sense. Has it suddenly gotten louder or more noticeable or has this been consistent?
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews Appreciate the quick response bud. I have owned the car for just over a year, and it's done it since I have had it. Just wondering as I want to ensure there isnt an issue here. I did also recently go with a K&N air filter stock replacement so its a bit more noticible now. I was thinking there was something like an intake leak, or turbo seal, but I am learning about the waste gate being recycled into the system now so that would make sense as to this sound. Thoughts on a blow off valve on these engines, or something more efficient opposed to the stock waste gate? Thank you in advance
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews From the people I talked to they are saying the noise is normal. Had a mechanic look at it as well. The car runs fine. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't an issue. First turbo car so wasn't sure it was normal. Appreciate the help.
I’m actually getting code P0236 which basically says the same as P0234 (I have a 2013, Escape, 2.0L). I’ve changed all my MAP sensors as well as both solenoids you’ve mentioned and I still get this code. The fault occurs only at startup. If I turn the engine off then back on, the fault is gone. If this happens approx 5 times, the check engine light stays on. Then, after a few times of not having the fault at startup, the check engine light goes off. Very frustrating
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews When the fault occurs at startup and I try to drive, the car “sputters” when I press the accelerator. I will then turn the Engine off and immediately restart it. No fault shows up and the engine performs normal. As mentioned, about every 5th time of this happening the check engine light stays on and the engine performs normal. After a few times of NOT getting the fault at startup the check engine light disappears. This is more of an annoyance but, I’d still like to know how to fix it
So I changed turbo over boost solenoid, for the p0234 code that’s on my car, I have the 2013 ford escape but I can’t get the engine code to go away I’ve cleared the code but with 5 minutes of drive the car the code comes back on any help would be great.
I did not but you could just to be safe. My thought was that the vehicle wasn't running so it wasn't looking for the signal/solenoid function but it couldn't hurt for a little extra reassurance and peace of mind
Hey bud. I have a 2.0 ecoboost escape I switched this solenoid, as well as replacing the turbo and the solenoid on the turbo with a brand new diverter valve and I'm still getting the code and have crazy loss of power do you have any other suggestions
¿Cuál es el código P0299 en un Ford Escape 2016? Las fugas en la plomería y el intercooler pueden causar un código P0299 y, a menudo, ocurren en los acoplamientos entre las tuberías de carga. Encontrar las fugas puede ser difícil debido al empaquetado del intercooler detrás de un parachoques. Actualizaciones de programación. Una máquina de humo puede ayudar a encontrar las fugas en la plomería y el intercooler.
@@josephbarrerareyes amigo muchas gracias, eh estado batallando por más de 2 meses, ya que pierde potencia el carro cuando se necesita acelerar rápidamente
@@jesusbarrera4763 en RUclips hay varios videos acerca del código p0299 . Te mande una liga hacia un video. Ojalá la puedas recibir. En ocasiones RUclips borra los comentarios. Saludos amigo. Eso también está relacionado con el waste gate.
Just want to let everybody know I have a 2017 Ford Escape SE 2.0 L and it is not located on top of the engine aslo its not on the passager side as well
I've been researching this part and I can find part number CJ5Z-9K378-B for around$185 but I can also find part number CJ5Z-9K378-A for around $80. Online it says "B" replaces the original part ending in "A". Do you know the difference?
Sometimes its just a manufacturing detail- if the Ford part diagram shows the -B and says it replaces -A, then it is most likely an updated design. I have experienced this with fuel and coolant lines- usually a material upgrade or modification to accomplish the same goal. Try searching Tasca Parts for the original number or the Ford Parts website if you haven't already?
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I actually did look at that site. That's where I found the one that's says B replaces A. Probably best to spend the extra money and get B.
Update! I found the Dorman part number which is compatible too. Part number 667-111. Disclaimer: I HAVE NOT ATTEMPTED TO INSTALL YET SO DONT KNOW IF ITS AN EXACT MATCH.
@@joshfsr YES! So for the record, the solenoid IN THIS VIDEO is that part from Dorman. It is working so far and installed well, but I have been reading some notes across the web saying that non-factory parts are questionable so I didn't post it as a recommendation aside from the original Ford part numbers in the description. SO FAR so good- might not be too bad to try it out for the cost and if it goes out, then go for the factory part- that's what I'm doing right now at least right now.
Depends on ur maintenance history, I work at a ford dealer the 2.0L and 3.5L ecoboosts I see that are maintained right don’t have problems, they only come in for brakes and the like
This video was perfect, and explained exactly what I needed to see. Hint: Watch it through all the way before you start!! Thanks guys, awesome job, I can't believe this actually fixed my problem, I usually have much worse luck on cars.
@@dmkelly5491 thank you for the excellent feedback and that rocks you knocked it out without any issues! Hope its smooth from here on out for you! Let us know if you have any other questions!
Really helpful, thank you. I have the 1.6 and prior to seeing this I spent a lot of time topside looking for it as in the 2.0 model.
Used this video to fix my P0234 code. Thanks for saving me from those exorbitant shop rates these days! You've earned my sub more than once!
Spent years searching for a video like this, glad to see someone finally made one. 2013 1.6 Escape
I wanted to leave a comment to say thank you! Your video helped me fix this on my own car. Cheers!
This is perfect just bought the part! Will be trying out soon!
Awesome! When you get to doing this, give a shout back if you have a moment- would love to know your experience and see how it goes! Do you have the 1.6L or 2.0L?
It is probably the drain pipe and the gasket on to turbo.
Thank you sir!
Worked great. Thanks!
Great video.
Such greatly done video thank you for it, my friend
Thank you! I have 1.6 I think this may be my problem. I’ve had light come on randomly with this code for a while now .i an a 69 yr old gimpy lol female. Going to try this. Thanks again! I’ll let you know 👍
Hi did this end up fixing your issue?
Great video ❤
I've been kinda putting off doing this until watching this video... other videos ive watched made it seem super difficult.
Great video thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Muito bom obrigado
I have the 2.0 L , ordered the part today. Hope it solves the issue. I brought car to Advanced Auto and their printout showed wastegate solenoid needed replacing
@@mikeo9219 hope its a quick fix! What symptoms are you experiencing? Any acceleration loss or lag in response?
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews it started after I had the Purge Solenoid and Map sensor replaced. After test driving it, Service Engine Now came on ( big square display). When it came on, the car was idling rough. I stopped car, restarted it then took to Advance Auto, that's where it showed it to be the Wastegate Solenoid
Hey where did you order the part from
@@mikeo9219was your vehicle having problems starting after filling up tank wiht this code being thrown
@@mysterious716 ya every I put gas in car it wouldn't start right ...learned to pump the accelerator after starting....after few seconds it would run . It developed another problem soon after I replaced waste gate solenoid and purge valve. It had no power accelerating uphill... finally brought it to the auto shop. They replaced the Mapt sensor...runs good now....hope this helps you
Do you have to connect the hoses or is it okay to just replace the solenoid? It's a 60 dollar difference so I figure the new hoses are worth it just to be safe? Just wondering
Hey, while you were in there did you diagnose that oil leak? Looks pretty severe. Curious because I have a similar leak issue that I've been investing
You know, I didn't. I did notice that as well and have been keeping an eye on the oil level. Doesnt seem to be wet up top. Hoping its something simple like a valve cover gasket and not the turbo or anything serious. Any idea about your situation? Thanks for asking
Very good chance it’s the valve cover gasket. Known to fail on these. I’m about to do it on my wife’s car cause it’s leaking like that.
Im getting extremely confused on this. From my understanding and what im reading, what youre saying is the wastegate solenoid on the 2.0 is just the boost pressure solenoid, ive read that the wastegate solenoid for the 2.0 is on the turbo itself but i cant find any info on it. Any help is greatly appreciated. I replaced the top side one on my 2.0 and still have the code.
If that solenoid is bad, could I also cause the vehicle to have a misfire as well?
I've been following you for 2 years and your app has been a lifesaver! I'm planning on replacing this on my 2013 2.0L as well as the bpv while I'm at it. Would you happen to know the part number or if it's the same as the 1.6L?
Thank you so much for the great feedback on the app! I can't tell you how much I appreciate that you use it. There was a lot of time and energy the went into it and it's sure nice to hear! So you're just asking for the 2.0L part number for the wastegate solenoid? Just want to make sure- thank you again for the great feedback!
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I was able to easily find the right solenoid, but since the turbo bypass valve is inches away I'd like to change it, too. Been getting P0299 and cant find any leaks in any hoses. I have 150K+ miles and think they've just ran their course. I found old videos here and there saying Ford tries to sell the turbo wholesale when there IS a bpv but I can't find a source to verify part numbers. Any insight?
Hey! So after doing a bit of research I came up with this part number: CJ5Z-9U465-A, which I THINK is the same as the 1.6L as is posted in this really informative thread here on the forum post linked below. The guy had a very similar question to you, and ended up buying the 1.6L part to test it out, found a variation on the part number (update, rev, etc), and said it worked out for him despite Tasca parts telling him it wasn't compatible with his '13 2.0L EcoBoost. Take a look and check it out. Was the best I could confirm www.fordescape.org/threads/2013-1-6l-ecoboost-turbo-bypass-valve-bpv-stock-part-number.116146/
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I came across his video but got kind of mixed signals. Already have this one ordered. Will report back as to whether this works in my 2.0L!
oh ok! Yeah please do- thanks a lot@@jameslee1010
Hi
I have 2014 ford fusion
And it seems like is a different solenoid
Hello, is the waste gate solenoid next to the turbo, the same part, as the boost solenoid on top of the engine? TIA!
Hi! I was just wondering if you will be able to make that replacement video for the mechanism that closes and locks the back rear left door? I finally have the part, and I have the tools for it I just cant find a tutorial thats very good. I can only find one and the guy rambles too much in it for me to follow along (adhd). I figured id ask you before I try to use that guys tutorial, ill be using your "how to take a door apart" video for a majority of it tho
Hey there @RealShawneeSays - shoot- I'm sorry about dropping the ball on that - just got the car back from getting a new transmission and have been in a mental hole getting it all back up to running condition but yes I can still do that- can you shoot me a private message our fb page and we can go over a bit more details there maybe?
And what's the part number of what you're replacing again please?
Does it matter when reconnecting the hoses, which you connect to which part? Or are they interchangeable?
The hoses need to go back to their particular fittings for the solenoid to do its job
Replacing this on a 2014 Ford Escape 1.6L fixes check engine code P0299 by the way!
Thanks for the data, I have the 2.0 ecoboost and I'm finding that after changing the solenoids on the bottom side with the brand new turbo and the top side with a new solenoid I've changed other sensors. Just not the ones that are connected to the throttle body because I'm under the impression on the 2.0 ecoboost it is a all-in-one unit. Any advice for me for my next step I would have greatly appreciate it
Similar for the 2011 1.6t?
Getting as fluttering noise from my intake on my 2013 Fusion 2.0 eco boost. Not sure this is normal but when you lightly accelerate and let off the gas you hear a fluttering sound from the intake. Is this normal with these cars? its not loud at all but just converned. Thank you in advance. (No check engine codes)
@@jaybourbon8608 there should be a tad of fluttering noise if you have an ecoboost engine. Its pretty subtle though with the stock setups. The noise after letting up on the gas makes sense. Has it suddenly gotten louder or more noticeable or has this been consistent?
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews Appreciate the quick response bud. I have owned the car for just over a year, and it's done it since I have had it. Just wondering as I want to ensure there isnt an issue here. I did also recently go with a K&N air filter stock replacement so its a bit more noticible now. I was thinking there was something like an intake leak, or turbo seal, but I am learning about the waste gate being recycled into the system now so that would make sense as to this sound. Thoughts on a blow off valve on these engines, or something more efficient opposed to the stock waste gate? Thank you in advance
@@jaybourbon8608 Usually, if you change to a BOV you'd need to get a tune to compensate. That will add $$ to your project.
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews From the people I talked to they are saying the noise is normal. Had a mechanic look at it as well. The car runs fine. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't an issue. First turbo car so wasn't sure it was normal. Appreciate the help.
I’m actually getting code P0236 which basically says the same as P0234 (I have a 2013, Escape, 2.0L). I’ve changed all my MAP sensors as well as both solenoids you’ve mentioned and I still get this code. The fault occurs only at startup. If I turn the engine off then back on, the fault is gone. If this happens approx 5 times, the check engine light stays on. Then, after a few times of not having the fault at startup, the check engine light goes off. Very frustrating
Did you by a cheap Chinese made one like the $14 one on Amazon? If so, that may be your problem.
@@joem.7621 No. from Motorcraft or Bosch
@@joem.7621 No. the code came up before I replaced all the sensors. I did replace with either Motorcraft or Bosch and I still get the code
So you're just seeing the fault? Do you still feel the turbo doing its job or are you experiencing sluggish performance?
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews When the fault occurs at startup and I try to drive, the car “sputters” when I press the accelerator. I will then turn the Engine off and immediately restart it. No fault shows up and the engine performs normal. As mentioned, about every 5th time of this happening the check engine light stays on and the engine performs normal. After a few times of NOT getting the fault at startup the check engine light disappears. This is more of an annoyance but, I’d still like to know how to fix it
So I changed turbo over boost solenoid, for the p0234 code that’s on my car, I have the 2013 ford escape but I can’t get the engine code to go away I’ve cleared the code but with 5 minutes of drive the car the code comes back on any help would be great.
Should I disconnect the battery while doing this or no?
I did not but you could just to be safe. My thought was that the vehicle wasn't running so it wasn't looking for the signal/solenoid function but it couldn't hurt for a little extra reassurance and peace of mind
Hey bud. I have a 2.0 ecoboost escape I switched this solenoid, as well as replacing the turbo and the solenoid on the turbo with a brand new diverter valve and I'm still getting the code and have crazy loss of power do you have any other suggestions
You ever figure this out?
El codigo p0299 de ford escape 2016 que podria ser
¿Cuál es el código P0299 en un Ford Escape 2016?
Las fugas en la plomería y el intercooler pueden causar un código P0299 y, a menudo, ocurren en los acoplamientos entre las tuberías de carga. Encontrar las fugas puede ser difícil debido al empaquetado del intercooler detrás de un parachoques. Actualizaciones de programación. Una máquina de humo puede ayudar a encontrar las fugas en la plomería y el intercooler.
@@josephbarrerareyes amigo muchas gracias, eh estado batallando por más de 2 meses, ya que pierde potencia el carro cuando se necesita acelerar rápidamente
@@jesusbarrera4763 ruclips.net/video/02RGbP_-RH4/видео.htmlsi=hLbXIXQdrwf345HS
@@jesusbarrera4763 en RUclips hay varios videos acerca del código p0299 . Te mande una liga hacia un video. Ojalá la puedas recibir. En ocasiones RUclips borra los comentarios. Saludos amigo. Eso también está relacionado con el waste gate.
@@josephbarrerareyes no me llego el link me lo podrás enviar de nuevo plis
The 2.0 model has 2 of these wastegates. I’ve changed both and still have the code
Just want to let everybody know I have a 2017 Ford Escape SE 2.0 L and it is not located on top of the engine aslo its not on the passager side as well
I have replaced turbo, wastegate and solenoids. Still getting code. I would be grateful for any help you can give im at a loss
Did you ever figure it out? I'm having the same problem.
I've been researching this part and I can find part number CJ5Z-9K378-B for around$185 but I can also find part number CJ5Z-9K378-A for around $80. Online it says "B" replaces the original part ending in "A". Do you know the difference?
Did you try looking at Rockauto for that part?
Sometimes its just a manufacturing detail- if the Ford part diagram shows the -B and says it replaces -A, then it is most likely an updated design. I have experienced this with fuel and coolant lines- usually a material upgrade or modification to accomplish the same goal. Try searching Tasca Parts for the original number or the Ford Parts website if you haven't already?
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews
I actually did look at that site. That's where I found the one that's says B replaces A. Probably best to spend the extra money and get B.
Update! I found the Dorman part number which is compatible too. Part number 667-111.
Disclaimer: I HAVE NOT ATTEMPTED TO INSTALL YET SO DONT KNOW IF ITS AN EXACT MATCH.
@@joshfsr YES! So for the record, the solenoid IN THIS VIDEO is that part from Dorman. It is working so far and installed well, but I have been reading some notes across the web saying that non-factory parts are questionable so I didn't post it as a recommendation aside from the original Ford part numbers in the description. SO FAR so good- might not be too bad to try it out for the cost and if it goes out, then go for the factory part- that's what I'm doing right now at least right now.
Ford recommends to get the part straight from them to avoid it faulting out of course. 275 if you can do it yourself
Have a 2016 can’t find it
👍
My car has 2 one on top and passenger side
Say what??? Do you drive an Escape? If so, what year and engine do you have? Thanks for sharing
2014 2.0l has 2. One on top and 1 on the passenger side through the wheel well
Thanks for the help but it is WAY EASIER to just jack it up and lay underneath of the car. You DON'T have to do all that unnecessary work.
nah laying underneath is harder cause its way up there, hard to reach
Skill issue @@mo2k2
Ford has definitely let us all down on these eco boost and junk transmissions . I’m srry to say I’m leaving ford
Depends on ur maintenance history, I work at a ford dealer the 2.0L and 3.5L ecoboosts I see that are maintained right don’t have problems, they only come in for brakes and the like