This gracious lady is blessed to have your hands on her for a rebirth. She has spoken to you of her care and condition over these many decades and is encouraging you to see your way toward gifting her another century of grace and admiration. She is fortunate!
My dad (Rest in Peace Pop) told me that there is nothing in this life that is terribly complicated, everything is just a million little details all sewn together. Model A restoration is a prime example of ALL those little details...
Nice work and description of the steps you're taking. Reminded me of my restoration of my 1931 Tudor many years ago - I had similar challenges getting the old, rotted wood out.
Awesome.What a puzzle in wood work.Someday I hope to do some of that on my 28 Tudor. Wish I presently had the finances to go forward on mine.You would be my 1st choice.Great work.Thx D.J.
For those sections of wood that are still solid (aside from a little “nail sickness) it might be feasible to trickle some baking soda into the holes (or cracks) followed by soaking with cyanoacrylate glue. Multiple layers and soakings may be needed for deeper holes. The combination sets nearly instantly and can be tool-worked or sanded right away. Bigger holes can be filled and solidified with cotton wool, then soaked with that glue, again in layers, if needed.
LOL...”After you remove all that it just drops right out”. You say that at about 8:30 in the video after explaining all the bolts, nails and screws you had to remove. You have patience!
There are patches of what looks like a glue roller was used on the inside of the panel section between the third and forth windows and the rear fifth window. Was there originally insulation glued there?
Nice. Looking forward to seeing how the wood goes back in. And how well the reproduction replacement wood fits. Let us know where you got the wood kit if you don't mind (If you're happy with it)
In the background, is your '65. Talking about blue, what color is the '65. BTW, I had one also. Mine was a '65 Super Sport , Four speed, 327 CID., 300 HP. It had some crazy first year design and quality problems. Mine was gold with a black vinyl top, black interior. Very classy.
In the series I made titled "1930 Ford model A Repaint and interior" In part 1 I show how I remove the old header and in part 2 I install a new one. That was on a briggs body, but I think that part is about the same.
It's going to look great in andalusite blue. What colour rims and pin stripe go with andalusite blue? I read somewhere that to get andalusite blue to look like it originally did, almost a bit purpleish, you need to use red oxide primer. Apparently that's what Henry used. Does that sound correct? Great project so far, thanks for taking the time to put together these videos for us, I don't know that I would have the patience. When I get working on a project just my phone ringing is enough to annoy me!! 😄
Thank you. Yes, that blue is vary transparent so it's sensitive to what color primer is underneath it. I don't know if the new toners are the same way, but we'll find out. According to the book, it should have a gray stripe, but this car had a white stripe originally so I'm not sure which we're going to put on it.
@@onewhocollects6781 The car has a white stripe............says the guy that thought the car was black! 😂 I think the car would look great with light grey rims and matching pin stripe, but I would be inclined to make it factory colours. Looking forward to the next episode!
You are doing a wonderful job,of course as usual and I enjoy watching your normally patient,painstaking ,consciensious,skilled workmanship but if that were my car,I would insist that you neatly cut out all the damaged/rusted sill areas. Then I would have you butt weld in new pieces then weld both sides and grind it all back to an invisiible finish. To me you have done an unsightly /ugly repair and spoiled the originality of the car. I would think that those welded on patches will stick out like a sore thumb on any comprehensive inspection of the car later. It makes no sense to me as you are so careful elsewhere and you worry about getting the original fabrics and paint colours on the car.and leaving the original spot welds etc visible on some of the metal body parts. If that were my car,I would put my money where my mouth is and pay you to remove your overlap repairs to the sills and have you do it as per above. I am actually having a wooden framed/metal bodied car restored at present and I have made it very clear to the restorer that all chassis /panel repairs,patches, must be neatly be butt welded in and invisible when finished and painted.
Felicidades, es un buen ejemplo. 361 sentadillas son unos SEXBABY.Uno muchas y un buen ejercicio. Se deja ver que hay muy buenos resultados 😍👍 Saludos desde la Cd.. de world 🌹😉💖 los mortaless abian apreciado tan hermosa mujer.k
This gracious lady is blessed to have your hands on her for a rebirth. She has spoken to you of her care and condition over these many decades and is encouraging you to see your way toward gifting her another century of grace and admiration. She is fortunate!
What a different twist to restorations when wood is involved, straight cut screws, square nuts, and carriage bolts!
My dad (Rest in Peace Pop) told me that there is nothing in this life that is terribly complicated, everything is just a million little details all sewn together. Model A restoration is a prime example of ALL those little details...
I am enjoying this restoration! Always fun to find stuff under seats! Take care. Tom
Love your attention to detail! This will be a Great Car!! Thanks again!
Nice work and description of the steps you're taking. Reminded me of my restoration of my 1931 Tudor many years ago - I had similar challenges getting the old, rotted wood out.
Awesome.What a puzzle in wood work.Someday I hope to do some of that on my 28 Tudor. Wish I presently had the finances to go forward on mine.You would be my 1st choice.Great work.Thx D.J.
Thanks! this will help me a lot when I start on mine!
Great video and explanation of everything that you are doing 👍 best to you, keep up the great work!
I’m excited for this restoration
Always feels good when primer goes on. Thanks for taking us along.
excellent attention to detail
dark blue thats going to look good. had a 76 ford highboy midnight blue
For those sections of wood that are still solid (aside from a little “nail sickness) it might be feasible to trickle some baking soda into the holes (or cracks) followed by soaking with cyanoacrylate glue. Multiple layers and soakings may be needed for deeper holes. The combination sets nearly instantly and can be tool-worked or sanded right away. Bigger holes can be filled and solidified with cotton wool, then soaked with that glue, again in layers, if needed.
Great work, brother!! Just need to curb your enthusiasm!!! I'm just picking at you, I like the dry, deliberate way you speak.
awesome work
I'll be following along.
LOL...”After you remove all that it just drops right out”. You say that at about 8:30 in the video after explaining all the bolts, nails and screws you had to remove. You have patience!
Removing all those little roof nails is a chore. I'm still working on a good process for that
I settled on using a cutt off wheel on my air grinder. You can grind the heads of each nail off enough they pop right through the tin.
There are patches of what looks like a glue roller was used on the inside of the panel section between the third and forth windows and the rear fifth window. Was there originally insulation glued there?
There was some kind of insulation glued on there. I think it was added later because I've never seen anything like that before.
Nice. Looking forward to seeing how the wood goes back in. And how well the reproduction replacement wood fits. Let us know where you got the wood kit if you don't mind (If you're happy with it)
Snyders
In the background, is your '65. Talking about blue, what color is the '65. BTW, I had one also. Mine was a '65 Super Sport , Four speed, 327 CID., 300 HP. It had some crazy first year design and quality problems. Mine was gold with a black vinyl top, black interior. Very classy.
Thank you. It's Artesian turquoise, only available that year. There will be videos on that car in the future when I can get around to it.
Any chance you'll be attending the 2022 MAFCA National Convention in Kerrville? Would love to meet you in person!
Unfortunately I don't know at this point if I'll have time, but we'll see.
Is there a video for header install on a 4 door murray only???
In the series I made titled "1930 Ford model A Repaint and interior" In part 1 I show how I remove the old header and in part 2 I install a new one. That was on a briggs body, but I think that part is about the same.
It's going to look great in andalusite blue. What colour rims and pin stripe go with andalusite blue?
I read somewhere that to get andalusite blue to look like it originally did, almost a bit purpleish, you need to use red oxide primer. Apparently that's what Henry used. Does that sound correct?
Great project so far, thanks for taking the time to put together these videos for us, I don't know that I would have the patience. When I get working on a project just my phone ringing is enough to annoy me!! 😄
Thank you. Yes, that blue is vary transparent so it's sensitive to what color primer is underneath it. I don't know if the new toners are the same way, but we'll find out.
According to the book, it should have a gray stripe, but this car had a white stripe originally so I'm not sure which we're going to put on it.
@@onewhocollects6781 The car has a white stripe............says the guy that thought the car was black! 😂
I think the car would look great with light grey rims and matching pin stripe, but I would be inclined to make it factory colours.
Looking forward to the next episode!
You are doing a wonderful job,of course as usual and I enjoy watching your normally patient,painstaking ,consciensious,skilled workmanship but if that were my car,I would insist that you neatly cut out all the damaged/rusted sill areas.
Then I would have you butt weld in new pieces then weld both sides and grind it all back to an invisiible finish.
To me you have done an unsightly /ugly repair and spoiled the originality of the car.
I would think that those welded on patches will stick out like a sore thumb on any comprehensive inspection of the car later.
It makes no sense to me as you are so careful elsewhere and you worry about getting the original fabrics and paint colours on the car.and leaving the original spot welds etc visible on some of the metal body parts.
If that were my car,I would put my money where my mouth is and pay you to remove your overlap repairs to the sills and have you do it as per above.
I am actually having a wooden framed/metal bodied car restored at present and I have made it very clear to the restorer that all chassis /panel repairs,patches, must be neatly be butt welded in and invisible when finished and painted.
Felicidades, es un buen ejemplo. 361 sentadillas son unos SEXBABY.Uno muchas y un buen ejercicio. Se deja ver que hay muy buenos resultados 😍👍 Saludos desde la Cd.. de world 🌹😉💖 los mortaless abian apreciado tan hermosa mujer.k