Excellent tips and video. I've resurrected the family model A after it set on flat tires with the head and pan off for just a bit more than 47 years. It, as you suggest and I also agree, is a car that is meant to be driven. I make it a point of, well just plain 'Ol' joy to drive mine daily. It sees from 2 ore 3 miles to 25 plus day in and day out. What a treat to work on, what now, feels like a 'LEGO' project compared to the 'no room under the hood, computerized, born in a wind tunnel' cars of our current 'age' Just like working on the Revel plastic Model A's from Christmas past but this on I get to drive to the store. Very rewarding and satisfying. I've driven at 155+ mph for hours at a time and 'all that' I'm just fine with the 30 to 55 mph this 'tool' was designed to operate at. It's 'all good' Thank you again for the well articulated information!
@@petemathews6237 The 155 mph+ was in Porsche 911's not model A fords. I've driven more than 600 K miles in those cars. 155 in a Model A Ford?.....please.
Hello my name is Nick from new york ,i inherited my fathers 1928 model A ,and my nephews inherited his 1924 model T .I have had some trouble with this car ,and your videos helped me out tremendously,i have built my third 1930s hot rod and have been a backyard mechanic since i was a boy and love working on anything with a motor .so i am no stranger to working on cars, your videos taught me a all new info i want to thank you personally for your help Mr Balm ,and please continue these videos
LOVED this!! Just acquired a 1929 model A w/ a '57 chevy impala engine from Dad. It's sat in his garage, not driven & taunting me for the last 14 yrs. Just got it running nicely again & the starter screwed me over. Not sure your other video on the starter was in line with my inner workings considering the sup up differential but this video sure did get me stoked for the future w my new ride! Thanks so much for sharing your wisdom! :))
I used gas for years, but I haven't for a while, kerosene or diesel is what I have used before too! Don't know if that works but I will use mineral spirits too! Thanks Paul and Tina, hope you two have a wonderful day.
Very Well Done Jack a nice list of things to do . My 1929 is sitting in the garage waiting to do all the things you mentioned . It is April 9th and so far all I have done is check the tires . I need to do the points too and oil the top distributor bearing . Thanks for the nice reminder to get the Model A ready for the warm weather . Bob in Cassopolis Michigan .
Great video! I'm intending to buy a Model A in the spring. I'd eventually like to have an A and a Model T. I live up near Traverse City and there are lots of great scenic drives that can be driven at a more leisurely pace. Some of the Middle Branch Model A club members came through here just last week.Thanks again for making such an informative video!
You forgot the water pump (water proof/pump grease) and the starter. generator, and distributor (drop or two of light ie. 3 in 1 oil), I used to apply a bit of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to the distributor cam with a Q tip. I had a Model "A" engine in a boat which is a damp environment.
You forgot the very important two oil spots on the generator and two spots on the distributor- these need to be done every 100 miles or so ( get an lubrication chart - very helpful) also lube the water pump.
That was good. I've had my A on the road since 1997 and I've tried to do most of those lubrication items regularly as a part of regular lube jobs. However I don't think I've ever pulled the rear drums to lubricate those bearings, except when I relined the brakes once. I can get some big back and neck pains doing some of those things.
terrific advice! I love the simplicity of these machines! Yet, I am ignorant about the Ford Model A. Educate me, please. Is there any way in the modern world to help reduce the transmission from leaking as much as they often do? For example if the transmission was refurbished with new gaskets, seals, etc., are there better seals or some other ways to help keep lubricant inside the trans where it belongs without so much leaking out, similar to what you were referring to with the new ways to install better seals for the steering gear? Are modern lubricants, such as synthetic gear lube that can cover a wide range of weights for the differential, considered harmful? Why? In the same manner why would the differential leak so much? Any modern way to stop the seals or gasket from leaking?--I would think there would be especially with all the smart experienced men maintaining these machines. Same thing with the king pins etc. I have a 53 year old garden tractor and I use modern seals on the trans and the differential and the front steering bearings, etc., and boy do they make a difference. In fact, I understand that the rear gears on my tractor come from the Ford Model A. (1969 Cub Cadet). My goal, eventually, is to get a Model A with some patina, but in excellent mechanic condition, and drive it regularly.
Hey Cajun. I’m from Hammond. Been in Michigan since 1958. At best, your truck is worth $10,000. That’s for almost a show truck. Not too many people them, but there is someone out there. Try eBay. I’ll ask around. Jack
DO NOT CLEAN SPARK PLUGS WITH A WIRE BRUSH! (It leaves faint "marks" on the ceramic cone of the plugs, which are "traces ofmetal", and the electric spark loves to follow these metallic paths, rather than to "jump the spark plug gap" under compression.") Always use a non-metallic brush, when cleaning spark plugs. 😁👍
The old Kenworth truck I used to drive was the same way, except it had 8 gears. If you used the clutch every time you shifted your left leg would be killing you at the end of the day.
Would it be easier to take up the floor board to add oil to transmission instead of crawling under the car ? I have a bad back. Love your videos !! Keep them coming !
Some of the guys have cut a hole in the floor board and put in one of those battery covers like on the left side. They even came up with a dip stick to make it easier. Pulling out the carpet or mat is no fun and a lot of work getting those boards out. Whatever you do, you must keep it full. It does leak out.
The differential and transmission require the same lubricant. The lubrication tends to not leak out of the differential. The transmission does loose lubricant. Consider purchasing and installing one of these. www.brattons.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=transmission+dip+stick+kit You can install this without getting under the car. Once installed, you can check your transmission and add lubricant without getting under the car.
Dont worry. me and my dad are the only people who are going to do work on my model A when I get one also my dad is going to get one to. thank you for the video
You didn’t talk about lubing the horn. You also didn’t talk about putting a little bit of lubricant in the distributor. Hmm… did you forget about those?
Looks like I'm not out of the woods yet, Jack. My rough idle problem seems to be from an exhaust manifold leak since there's some smoke coming from the back end of the manifold..But there's also lots of black exhaust smoke, meaning that it's running too rich. And I can't seem to correct that by turning down the idle mixture screw on the carburetor or with the choke rod either. And, of course, no one else is available to look at it except me.
A stuck valve? What could cause that? I've just recently had the head off to replace the head gasket. So I wouldn't be too anxious to take it off again. My first guess was a leaking exhaust gasket when I noticed exhaust smoke in the area. Just one damned thing after another lately.
Sure, It's a ford and they service them. They may have to do a little scrambling, but I think they could find someone who could handle it. I know a doctor in SC who took his milk truck to a dealer and had them put a new engine in. I'm sure it cost him, but he gets all his service done that way.
Yes and no. The person you took it to would have to know where all the places to lubricate are located. If you download a copy of where the grease fittings are located, where the oil needs to be added, etc. then any able bodied mechanic can easily to lubricate your car. However, lubrication has to be done. There are something like 33 grease fittings on a model A.
Does anyone know what the black round thing is against the firewall below the light? My 1930 has a hole there so I’m just curious. Hope someone has the answer, thanks!
That black round thing is a trouble light. The lamp is facing downward with a small hood on top. The can pops off and there is a coiled wire in there that will let you move the lamp around the car. There is a small switch on it. I don't think there is any need for a large hole in the dash pnl. there.
Hey just wondering if it would be possible to daily drive one of these for a while? Of course I'd be taking very good care of it and keeping up with the maintenance . Think it would be okay?
I think I've fixed my exhaust manifold and manifold to exhaust pipe leaks by removing the O rings from the manifold and wrapping some muffler tape around the exhaust connection. I also changed the spark plugs and the carburetor. So now I seem to have fixed the black smoke situation but it's still not idling as smooth as it should and will not accelerate enough to get you out of low gear. Any ideas, Jack? I have absolutely no club help around here.
Don't change more than one thing at a time. Condenser is probably unless you cooked it from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Bad points can cause this. Closed up point gap can cause it. Wrong timing. Double check it. Black smoke means you are running very rich. Remember though, "90% of all fuel problems are Ignition" If you have other distributors or carb's to try, do that, but only one at a time. The coil could be the problem when it gets hot. I just ran into this. Hard to figure out. Check the plugs. I know you put new ones in, but if they are black and fuzzy, clean them. Let me know. jack
There are two National club. MAFCA. Model A Ford Club of America’s. Mostly on the west coast. MARC. Model A Restorers Club. East coast. They both have clubs in most states. I am in MARC. Oakleaf region. Club. Look around and see if a club is near you and join it now or later. If none are near you, you and your dad are welcome to join our club, Oakleaf. We have out of state members. You get our news letter, all publications, and help with you car. All electronically. Just keep up that interest. The A is a great car to work on and have fun. Not expensive. Good luck.
No, don't spend the money. Your oil will get dirty and you will want to leave it in there. Just use any oil and change it often. Clean oil is the key. If you are on a long trip, just add oil until you get home.
Excellent tips and video. I've resurrected the family model A after it set on flat tires with the head and pan off for just a bit more than 47 years. It, as you suggest and I also agree, is a car that is meant to be driven. I make it a point of, well just plain 'Ol' joy to drive mine daily. It sees from 2 ore 3 miles to 25 plus day in and day out. What a treat to work on, what now, feels like a 'LEGO' project compared to the 'no room under the hood, computerized, born in a wind tunnel' cars of our current 'age' Just like working on the Revel plastic Model A's from Christmas past but this on I get to drive to the store. Very rewarding and satisfying. I've driven at 155+ mph for hours at a time and 'all that' I'm just fine with the 30 to 55 mph this 'tool' was designed to operate at. It's 'all good' Thank you again for the well articulated information!
I don’t think I would feel comfortable going 155 MPH in a Model A for a minute much less for a couple hours. That’s like a death wish! ;)
@@petemathews6237 The 155 mph+ was in Porsche 911's not model A fords. I've driven more than 600 K miles in those cars. 155 in a Model A Ford?.....please.
Hello my name is Nick from new york ,i inherited my fathers 1928 model A ,and my nephews inherited his 1924 model T .I have had some trouble with this car ,and your videos helped me out tremendously,i have built my third 1930s hot rod and have been a backyard mechanic since i was a boy and love working on anything with a motor .so i am no stranger to working on cars, your videos taught me a all new info i want to thank you personally for your help Mr Balm ,and please continue these videos
Great no nonsense useable information that's right on target. And NO stinking music. Thank you so very much.
you are welcome.
Great advice
Jack, I just retired and am thinking about getting a Model A. Your videos are a great help in my decision process. Thanks for making them.
I always appreciate these words of wisdom for those of us not already familiar with the Model A. Thanks for taking the time to do it for us.
Looking forward to getting mine running
I just bought my first 1929 Model A and these tips help, Thank You.
Bought a 1931 Sport Coupe back in 2011. Your tips are very much appreciated.
I know this is an older video but thanks for posting. I just bought a '30 pickup and I have a lot to learn.
Thank you for the tips. Enjoyed the video. The peace I felt in listening made it easier to absorb
Letting a model A or any old car sit around and not be ran is the worst thing for them. They love doing what they are made for. Running the roads!
That goes for the modern computer commuter too.
I don't own a Model A and probably never will. But I watched your video anyhow and still enjoyed it. Thanks!
Thank you. just bought a 30 coupe. This will help with the basic need-to-know.
LOVED this!! Just acquired a 1929 model A w/ a '57 chevy impala engine from Dad. It's sat in his garage, not driven & taunting me for the last 14 yrs. Just got it running nicely again & the starter screwed me over. Not sure your other video on the starter was in line with my inner workings considering the sup up differential but this video sure did get me stoked for the future w my new ride! Thanks so much for sharing your wisdom! :))
I used gas for years, but I haven't for a while, kerosene or diesel is what I have used before too! Don't know if that works but I will use mineral spirits too! Thanks Paul and Tina, hope you two have a wonderful day.
Very Well Done Jack a nice list of things to do . My 1929 is sitting in the garage waiting to do all the things you mentioned . It is April 9th and so far all I have done is check the tires . I need to do the points too and oil the top distributor bearing . Thanks for the nice reminder to get the Model A ready for the warm weather . Bob in Cassopolis Michigan .
Thanks for a very excellent video on the Model A Ford. I learned a great deal thanks to you...All the best. .
Jim, it is interesting that you mention the hole in the back of the trans tower. A lot of people don't know it is there. It should be open and clear.
Great video! I'm intending to buy a Model A in the spring. I'd eventually like to have an A and a Model T. I live up near Traverse City and there are lots of great scenic drives that can be driven at a more leisurely pace. Some of the Middle Branch Model A club members came through here just last week.Thanks again for making such an informative video!
Did you ever get your A?
Great Video, my 6th month of enjoying my late 31' Tudor... keep the videos coming Jack.
jack bahm Thanks for sharing this link - I just saved it as I know I will be referring to it a lot!
Thanks. Now have fun with it.
You forgot the water pump (water proof/pump grease) and the starter. generator, and distributor (drop or two of light ie. 3 in 1 oil), I used to apply a bit of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to the distributor cam with a Q tip. I had a Model "A" engine in a boat which is a damp environment.
Wise advice that can avoid a lot of expensive repairs if followed.
You forgot to oil the distributor
You forgot the very important two oil spots on the generator and two spots on the distributor- these need to be done every 100 miles or so ( get an lubrication chart - very helpful) also lube the water pump.
I hope one day to own one
Plenty cars out there and about $9k will buy you a good driver. Parts are easy to get and very low cost.
That was good. I've had my A on the road since 1997 and I've tried to do most of those lubrication items regularly as a part of regular lube jobs. However I don't think I've ever pulled the rear drums to lubricate those bearings, except when I relined the brakes once. I can get some big back and neck pains doing some of those things.
They did not have an oil filter.Oil wasto be changed every 500 miles. Also mechanical brakes. Proper adjustment a must
terrific advice! I love the simplicity of these machines! Yet, I am ignorant about the Ford Model A. Educate me, please. Is there any way in the modern world to help reduce the transmission from leaking as much as they often do? For example if the transmission was refurbished with new gaskets, seals, etc., are there better seals or some other ways to help keep lubricant inside the trans where it belongs without so much leaking out, similar to what you were referring to with the new ways to install better seals for the steering gear? Are modern lubricants, such as synthetic gear lube that can cover a wide range of weights for the differential, considered harmful? Why? In the same manner why would the differential leak so much? Any modern way to stop the seals or gasket from leaking?--I would think there would be especially with all the smart experienced men maintaining these machines. Same thing with the king pins etc. I have a 53 year old garden tractor and I use modern seals on the trans and the differential and the front steering bearings, etc., and boy do they make a difference. In fact, I understand that the rear gears on my tractor come from the Ford Model A. (1969 Cub Cadet). My goal, eventually, is to get a Model A with some patina, but in excellent mechanic condition, and drive it regularly.
Hey Cajun. I’m from Hammond. Been in Michigan since 1958. At best, your truck is worth $10,000. That’s for almost a show truck. Not too many people them, but there is someone out there. Try eBay. I’ll ask around. Jack
Your resources defy the market
classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars-for-sale/1930-ford-model_a-for-sale
DO NOT CLEAN SPARK PLUGS WITH A WIRE BRUSH!
(It leaves faint "marks" on the ceramic cone of the plugs, which are "traces ofmetal", and the electric spark loves to follow these metallic paths, rather than to "jump the spark plug gap" under compression.")
Always use a non-metallic brush, when cleaning spark plugs. 😁👍
The old Kenworth truck I used to drive was the same way, except it had 8 gears. If you used the clutch every time you shifted your left leg would be killing you at the end of the day.
Would it be easier to take up the floor board to add oil to transmission instead of crawling under the car ? I have a bad back. Love your videos !! Keep them coming !
Some of the guys have cut a hole in the floor board and put in one of those battery covers like on the left side. They even came up with a dip stick to make it easier. Pulling out the carpet or mat is no fun and a lot of work getting those boards out. Whatever you do, you must keep it full. It does leak out.
The differential and transmission require the same lubricant. The lubrication tends to not leak out of the differential. The transmission does loose lubricant.
Consider purchasing and installing one of these.
www.brattons.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=transmission+dip+stick+kit
You can install this without getting under the car. Once installed, you can check your transmission and add lubricant without getting under the car.
thank you for the good advices
Dont worry. me and my dad are the only people who are going to do work on my model A when I get one also my dad is going to get one to. thank you for the video
Nice video. Thanks!
im glad you make this video.
You didn’t talk about lubing the horn. You also didn’t talk about putting a little bit of lubricant in the distributor. Hmm… did you forget about those?
greese the fan shaft
great video! I love these old model As!
Looks like I'm not out of the woods yet, Jack. My rough idle problem seems to be from an exhaust manifold leak since there's some smoke coming from the back end of the manifold..But there's also lots of black exhaust smoke, meaning that it's running too rich. And I can't seem to correct that by turning down the idle mixture screw on the carburetor or with the choke rod either. And, of course, no one else is available to look at it except me.
You may have a valve problem. You are probably running on three cylinders
A stuck valve? What could cause that? I've just recently had the head off to replace the head gasket. So I wouldn't be too anxious to take it off again. My first guess was a leaking exhaust gasket when I noticed exhaust smoke in the area. Just one damned thing after another lately.
I daily drive my model A all year round
I use 90 120 gear lube
Keep the gas tank full. It will help prevent it rusting.
11. Own one
I have the same color scheme 1930 Fordor town deluxe. What is the second color called?
Can you take Ford model A to car dealership or auto mechanic to do oil change and other maintenance work?
Sure, It's a ford and they service them. They may have to do a little scrambling, but I think they could find someone who could handle it. I know a doctor in SC who took his milk truck to a dealer and had them put a new engine in. I'm sure it cost him, but he gets all his service done that way.
Yes and no. The person you took it to would have to know where all the places to lubricate are located. If you download a copy of where the grease fittings are located, where the oil needs to be added, etc. then any able bodied mechanic can easily to lubricate your car. However, lubrication has to be done. There are something like 33 grease fittings on a model A.
What about the distributor?
thanks sir your awsome!
The wings on the Boyce MoToMeter are backwards.....HORRORS!
Yes. Drive the wheels off of it. It can take it and will run better than ever.
I'd be mostly scared to death about some jackasses vandalizing it.
My buddy just got his 1930 today. I'll send him this way. Something seems to be missing from the center of the cluster. A light maybe?
Does anyone know what the black round thing is against the firewall below the light? My 1930 has a hole there so I’m just curious. Hope someone has the answer, thanks!
That black round thing is a trouble light. The lamp is facing downward with a small hood on top. The can pops off and there is a coiled wire in there that will let you move the lamp around the car. There is a small switch on it. I don't think there is any need for a large hole in the dash pnl. there.
Jack Bahm thank you, much appreciated!
Hey just wondering if it would be possible to daily drive one of these for a while? Of course I'd be taking very good care of it and keeping up with the maintenance . Think it would be okay?
They drove them everyday when they were new. There is a video on RUclips about a guy that drove his everyday.
I think I've fixed my exhaust manifold and manifold to exhaust pipe leaks by removing the O rings from the manifold and wrapping some muffler tape around the exhaust connection. I also changed the spark plugs and the carburetor. So now I seem to have fixed the black smoke situation but it's still not idling as smooth as it should and will not accelerate enough to get you out of low gear. Any ideas, Jack? I have absolutely no club help around here.
Don't change more than one thing at a time. Condenser is probably unless you cooked it from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Bad points can cause this. Closed up point gap can cause it. Wrong timing. Double check it. Black smoke means you are running very rich. Remember though, "90% of all fuel problems are Ignition" If you have other distributors or carb's to try, do that, but only one at a time. The coil could be the problem when it gets hot. I just ran into this. Hard to figure out. Check the plugs. I know you put new ones in, but if they are black and fuzzy, clean them. Let me know. jack
Go check out Paul Shinn’s videos too. He has great tips about how to keep your model A running and how to fix it.
Could it be a daily driver
Sure, the more you drive it, the better it will run. drive that little car.
And don't worry I will drive all the time
There are two National club. MAFCA. Model A Ford Club of America’s. Mostly on the west coast. MARC. Model A Restorers Club. East coast. They both have clubs in most states. I am in MARC. Oakleaf region. Club. Look around and see if a club is near you and join it now or later. If none are near you, you and your dad are welcome to join our club, Oakleaf. We have out of state members. You get our news letter, all publications, and help with you car. All electronically. Just keep up that interest. The A is a great car to work on and have fun. Not expensive. Good luck.
500 to A Thousand Miles for oil change what about you use modern full synthetic oil
No, don't spend the money. Your oil will get dirty and you will want to leave it in there. Just use any oil and change it often. Clean oil is the key. If you are on a long trip, just add oil until you get home.