2016-2018 Tacoma Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Height Front Shocks - Installation
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2018
- If you want to know how to install the adjustable height Bilstein 5100 shock on the front of a new Tacoma, here you go (Tundra, 4runner and FJ cruiser will be similar).
Whats nice about the Bilstein shock over factory? The ability to have several different height setting to choose from without the cost of a custom coil over setup, gaining some travel, nice looking and easy to install.
These shocks are priced just over $200 a pair these cost about the same as a set of lift block installed new budget shock so you may as well upgrade. These are available at many off-road shops and online retailers including amazon - amzn.to/2tQMAw8
As long as your truck is all original Then you should need 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21 mm sockets, 14 and 19mm wrenches and you may need some pliers and a prybar. Also if you are doing the rear at the same time then you may need a 19 and/or 21 mm deep socket for the u-bolts on the leaf springs ( I would recommend 1/2”drive and a longer ratchet or breaker bar. When you torque the u-bolts start with half the torque spec and use a crisscross pattern so they tighten evenly and then torque to final spec. I would also re-torque all bolts after you 200-500 miles on the truck. Are you getting the complete strut with upper mount already installed? If not you need a strut compressor or stop by you mechanic and see what the cash price is to compress the spring and swap the strut. Normally $20-$40 for a tech to do it on his lunch break.
Some of these specs seem high but its what I have. The top 3 nuts are 47ft/lbs although you may not be able to get a torque wrench in there, sway bar link to the knuckle 52ft/lbs, lower strut mounting bolt 61ft/lbs, upper ball joint to knuckle 81ft/lbs, wheels 83ft/lbs, lower control arm bolts 135ft/lbs (check this after the alignment shop is done), rear shock upper nut 15ft/lbs, rear shock lower nut 43ft/lbs, rear leaf spring and shackle bolts 89ft/lbs, u-bolts 52ft/lbs.
Make sure they didn't include revised torques specs for the kit.
Also if you need more specific repair information and specs Toyota has a fairly cheap option to get the factory repair information. Its $20 for a 2 day subscription and you can look up the exact repair information based on your VIN number. The website is techinfo.toyota.com I would get all the information you can while you have an active subscription.
If you need any other details let me know in the comments below.
What a excellent video! No music in the background, perfect instructional narrative, footage and vantage points were nothing to complain about. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks a ton just installed my lift today and thanks to you and your video it went without a hitch I appreciate the work you put in so that we can benefit from it I have the short bed V6 but still put it on the 5th slot and no noticeable difference so far. Thanks again!
Best video for installation by far made installation a breeze. Moving the sway bar up and out of the way makes this so easy.
Thank you for this video!
You're welcome!
Did the same to my taco and put 1inch block on back now truck is perfectly level looks great 👍
Great info didn't even have to deal with alignment cams by taking the upper ball joints apart from upper control arms, brilliant
I just installed the same shocks on my Silverado. And the extra 2” of lift in the front really set the truck off and make it look how the truck should have rolled off the assembly line
It really makes a difference on some of these trucks.
Such a great informative channel. Came here for the Tacoma work. Thanks for the videos!
I really appreciate feedback like this. Thanks for stopping by.
Excellent video! Thank you so much for the detailed, yet simple explanations. Please make more vids.
Thanks for the vid. I just did mine while watching this. Now on to the back.
Mister Scott, No problem glad I could help. I need to get another one in the shop so I can do a video on the rear.
Great video. Definitely educational and to the point. Will be getting these for mine.
Fantastic video, thank you! Clear and concise. I will be following along while I do my suspension upgrade. 👍
Thank you! Very nice video. It is concise, clear and very well explained. Most appreciative!
No problem. Thanks for watching. 👍🏻
I know this is an older video but it’s a fantastic one for sure 👍🏻🏆
Just wanna say thank you for helping me! I’m pretty much new to working on trucks so it took me a little longer. You’re great help!
John Nguyen No problem. How did it turn out?
Make sure you get the alignment checked before diving too much.
ThePracticalMechanic I’ve only driven it to the shop to my house but that’s about it. I’m waiting for my tires to come in so I can do that and then get my alignment.
John Nguyen sweet. What tires are you planning on running?
ThePracticalMechanic decided to go with 285/75/16r Falkens
Those will fit good. I have been running 265/75r16 general grabbers on my Hilux because I like a skinnier tire and I don’t have the power for the bigger tires at 6000-12000 ft elevation here in Colorado.
Only person that tells you that the 2 larger washers are for TRD pro , good info nice video
Hello there! Yea I added the same 5100 height adj. strut to my 2019 Colorado Crew Cab, 4x4, V6, W/T, along with the rears with 5100. I set mine to the forth mark, to add 1.9”, to the front, with nothing added to the rear. I only wanted 1.9”, because I actually like a rear biased rake, mostly due to the fact we have a 26’, and as high as 6,500 lbs GVW travel trailer, that’s only as heavy as it can get, mostly it’s in the under 6,000 lbs range, that we also use a Fastway E2 Weight Distribution/Sway Control Bar, not so much for weight, but stability in high winds an speeds. So now without a load the truck is till about 1.25” higher in the rear, then level with the 450lbs tongue weight with the trailer hitched. The best part is now when off road an on the front absorbs large bumps much better than stock with greater control. I also have to say the Colorado does a great job towing the trailer, with ease. While getting respectable mileage, like 8-10 in The Smokey Mountains on our last trip up there, but 10-12 on sort of flat minor grade roads in Florida at 65-70 mph. But just getting around with the two of us, 18-20 city, 22-28 highway, from 70-55 mph, all on 87 regular. This is my second Colorado, the first was a 2016, Ext Cab, Z71,4x4, V6, we traded for the Crew Cab when we both retired an needed only one vehicle. We had 68,000 trouble free miles on that one, mostly towing a 21’,4,000 lbs travel trailer. When we went looking for a new truck, we drove all the midsized trucks, wanted a Gladiator, but didn’t like the steering an Prices, Tacoma was nice, but felt like we were sitting on the floor and the brakes were soft, the Range was as powerful as the Colorado, but brakes were soft and fit an finish was poor. Plus they were all thousands more! We ended up at just over 33k out the door. With 16” alloy wheels, bright trim, color matching bumpers, door handles and mirror caps, complete towing package with G80 auto lock rear differential, hitch, tow/haul mode an brake controller built in. Plus a fantastic 7” touch screen with Cap-Play and OnStar 4 G LTE WIFI! That’s indispensable on camping trips and just every day music streaming through the Bose Speaker System. Plus I haggled the dealer for an 84 month 100,000 miles bumper to bumper warranty, along with the complete skid plate package that comes on the ZR2! Very pleased. Good luck have fun and stay safe!
Sounds like you have a great setup. Getting the warranty included is a great deal. It's amazing how many options these new vehicle have and how many you can add on after purchase. Hope you have the same trouble free experience for the life of the vehicle.
Disconnecting the UCA is the LONG way to do this. Remove the 2 bolts from the Lower Ball Joint Bracket and drop the LCA, much easier. Both achieve the same results.
Man you made that look easy ! Very helpful.
Just did the front thanks for this video! Tom I will do the rear I'm tired already. It's my 1st time doing it! Much easier if the truck is lifted like in the video. I only use jack stands. The hard part for me is when I'm putting the new strut. It was heavy and plus my awkward position. Thanks for this video!
That’s great!! Have fun on the rear leafs tomorrow. Did you get rear shocks with the kit? You can get by without them but you will get more travel when off-road if you install a slightly longer shock.
@@ThePracticalMechanic hi I just finished the rear I'm exhausted as f***. Yeah I did changed the rear shocks too with extended Bilstein 5100. I also have new extended rear brake hose (stainless). I don't know how to replace it yet. Do I really need to change it? I'm not doing off-roading it's just my daily driver. Thanks
Congratulations on getting the lift kit done. I wouldn’t worry about replacing the brake line unless the original rubber line gets pulled tight when you lift the vehicle up by the frame. Even then sometimes you can tweak the metal bracket a little bit that holds the factory brake line and gain an extra 1/2” or so. Make sure you get the alignment checked before you drive it too much.
@@ThePracticalMechanic yeah I will go to alignment shop tom. Which metal bracket the one on axel or the one on top which the metal brake line connected
VJTrey1 sometime you can get a little out of each one but normally the axle bracket will be easiest to bend and will give you 1/4” or so
The real professional job, excellent video.
No BS and straight to the point. Thank you!
Great video brother!
Fantastic video!
Thanks. 👍🏻
I appreciate your time for making video and you sharing your knoweldge. Thanks alot. !!!
No problem!!! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for taking the time to show the steps. How much would it run in labor to have it done?
Depends on what lift kit you get and how high you go. For a complete strut that is already assembled with less than 2" of lift most shops will be $250-350 labor for the install and then 70-100 for an alignment. If the springs have to be swapped over it could be an additional $100 depending on the shop. A differential drop adds another $50-100. So a range of low $300s to $600 for labor depending on shop and kit installed
This is what videos should be like... def subscribing. A quick question. Did you have to mess with the camber after this? would you recommend the coils be done as well if you were doing this again?
R B camber and toe will have to be adjusted anytime the height is altered. If an aftermarket bumper and winch are going to be installed I would go with a slightly heavier spring. If adding just a winch or just a steel bumper the stock springs will be adequate for at least 30k miles. Most springs will sag slightly after that especially if used off road. I’m still running stock front springs on my 4runner with 315k miles and I have the adjustable struts.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Appreciate it, thank you.
This is my exact truck and lift that I was looking at. Do you know if 33's will fit without a cmc or do I also need to replace the uca?
Awesome video👌🏼
Thanks 👍🏻
Perfect awesome video...
Nice sleeves on that shirt at around the 2 minute mark 😉
P-Mac Dean it’s my holy hoodie. Everyone should have one.
Great video, thanks
Thanks👍🏻
Great Video. Doing this next week!
Sweet! It’s a great strut setup. Good luck.
Thanks. Any videos on installing rear shock and leaf?
I don’t have any videos on the rear yet. I will make sure to video the next one I do.
Use a torque wrench on the ball joint. Actually use one on all the fasteners.
Subbed, great video!
Rear lif suspension link please ..
Nice video thank u ...
Just put these on my truck 👌
Good choice!
Great video. You meant in that it’s only recommended to go to 5 option (2” lift) for a 4x4 off road Tacoma. I have a 2wd 3rd gen Tacoma. What would you recommend for my truck?
It really depends on the look you want. I install most at the second or third clip position because I don’t the front to be higher than the rear. If an add-a-leaf is installed in the rear the third or forth position is typically adequate for a level truck.
@@ThePracticalMechanic can you go 4th perch without new ucas diff drop all that fun extra stuff? I was going to go 3rd perch but my rear is 37 inches high and my front is 35 inches high, 2021 4x4 DCLB trd OR. so 2 inch height difference, instead of the 1 inch difference i see on average
Great video very informative any taco lean from any of your installs?
J P It seems to happen to all of the Tacoma’s. This one was within an 1/8” up front and a 1/4” in the rear after the lift. I’m not sure what the fuel tank level was at on this truck but a lot of he trucks lean different with a full tank or empty tank. A different coil spring may help with the issue since most Toyota use a different spring rate from one side to the other.
ThePracticalMechanic Thanks much appreciated
Great video. Question: Would this result to a much stiffer and rougher front suspension? Thanks.
I find the bilstein shocks only slightly stiffer in dampening than the OEM shocks. If you set the height adjustment to max it will ride rougher.
Great video.
Is alignment required after installing these?
nuno maher thanks for watching. An alignment is required after the lift is installed. I had to adjust Camber, Caster and Toe on this truck.
Thats what I thought but wanted to be sure. Thanks so much for the prompt reply!
No problem.
Scrolled through briefly and maybe it’s been mentioned, not sure, didn’t have time to read all the 200+ comments but Bilstein actually doesn’t recommends the 5th perch for V6 4x4 long beds like your video suggest. My 5100’s specifically say the 5th perch only for short bed V6. Have you doubled checked that your info is correct?
I transferred information directly from install sheet. It has been 5 years so they may have updated the instructions.
I don’t really like lifting them past the 3rd clip without other supporting modification
Good video... Can you change the height setting while they are on the truck or does it need to come apart?
The spring has to be compressed to adjust the snap ring. You might be able to get a pair of those scary spring compressors in there while it’s in the vehicle but I think it would be faster to yank it back out and compress it. Just remember to get the alignment done again after you change the snap ring position.
Gotcha, thanks!
Are you pre loading the spring at all to get that extra height? I'm thinking about doing this but only adding an inch so curious about that. If it does, would it create a harsher ride?
Marco Allende changing the clip position is basically just changing the preload of the strut assembly.
Thanks for the tutorial 🤙😎
Hey CJ. No problem. What kind of build are you doing?
Just these guys and some 285’s 🤙 (2016 TRD Sport)
Ah. Perfect setup. I prefer a narrower tire but my dad and brother both run the 285’s. What brand tire? My favorite is the General Grabber ATx. Running those on my 95 pickup, my 90 Hilux, and my 96 4Runner.
BFG KO’s AT
CJ Those are great tires as well I have those on my 94 Toyota pickup in a 31x10.5r15. Love the new aggressive sidewall that the newer grabbers and BFG all terrains have. Sounds like your going to have a good all around setup. 👍🏻
Great video! I'm looking into lift kits for my 2017 SR5 Tacoma as well. Where at in Colorado are you located? I live in Colorado as well, might have to make an appt with you.
I'm an hour south of Colorado Springs.
@@ThePracticalMechanic dam thats pretty far.. I'm 2 hours north of Colorado Springs
Here is a link to one of my suppliers in Denver. www.toyteclifts.com/ I'm not sure if they still do install or not but they make great lift kits. If they cant help they should be able to get you to a dealer in that area. I need to get up to Northern Colorado and do some exploring this year. Let me know if you run into issues.
Question, do you really need longer upper control arms on a 2.5 inch front lift? Is there a benefit to replace them? I hear it's better so it don't get in a bind when flexed and it puts the alignment back to factory specs.
I haven’t run into any issues on the newer Tacoma’s with the 2 1/2 inch lift. I normally have just enough adjustment in the lower control arm to get it into spec. But after market upper control arm does give you more adjustability and more travel. You can also add more caster with an aftermarket upper control arm and that will help prevent high speed wobble with larger tires.
ThePracticalMechanic thanks for the reply, I'm going to install OME lift in the spring and I want it to be capable offroad, upper control arms is expensive so I wanted to know if it's worth the money to make the truck perform right. My tacoma is a '16 model and I plan to wear it out over many years. So if I invest in them over the long run, I haven't waisted money. I do offroad the truck.
When selecting the Old Man Emu lift(or any lift really) your really going to want to think about what the truck will be used for. Are you going to add off road bumpers, camper shell, roof top tent, winch? OME has a lot of options for spring rate and shock stiffness. If your staying with a basic stock truck and want bigger tires then you may want the softer spring and shock. If you drive the truck hard then you may want a little stiffer so you don't bottom out on faster off road trails. Stiffer can also offer better control during high speed driving. I went to Overland Expo West 2018 and there was some great displays of all the top lift companies. I think overland East is coming up soon but I'm sure how big the eastern expo is. Have you been to the overland expo before?
I have not been to overland west but I hope to go one year soon.
On the ome suspension, I have a ranch hand steel bumper with no winch ,its heavy so i m thinking heavy coil spring rate. On the rear I'm thinking medium spring rate because i pull a trailer once in awhile and its heavy dual axle. Tires i want to move up to 265-75 r16 with the lift. I don't want a cab mount chop.
I will be coming to Colorado (_canon city) first week of October on vacation to 4wheel around and see fall colors.
Sojourn Overland The colors are starting to change slightly in areas already (maybe low light from the smoke). If you need anything while you are in Canon City let me know because that is where I’m located. 😀
I have a 2016 tacoma sr thats 2wd and bought a set of Bilstein 48510-04190 Struts and rear Shocks the set i got doesn't come with coil springs will my oem springs work with these struts
The Bilstein are typically designed for use with the factory coils or aftermarket heavy coils. In this video I used the OEM coils
Thanks for the video. Was wondering if the 5100's were worth it if I didn't want any lift. I just want a more compliant suspension. I feel the factory spring rates are ok just the dampening is off a little.
I really like them on my 96 4Runner. They seem much more predictable over bumps than my factory struts. I think most stock truck are built for the 90% of people that never see a dirt road. Once you go off-road the factory shocks and struts can be lacking.
@@ThePracticalMechanic tell me about it. I'm in a 19 DCSB SR5. Those little dinky shocks can barely handle the asphalt where I'm from.
Hi, I drive a 17’ Tacoma SR5 4x2 short bed. I as well would like to install 5100’s on my Taco. Would I be able to get away with it sitting at the fifth position, or would it be a bad idea?
Since it’s a 2x4 you want have any cv axle issues from the extra height so it might work just fine but ou also have less weight up front so you may experience over extension of the shock when you go over bump. If this happens you may have to set it down a notch.
👍
So i have a dakar leaf on the rear and it comes with longer ubolt. Should I torque it down to factory torque spec 52 ft/lb or follow dakars recommended spec 90 ft/lb thanks!
VJTrey1 if the kit came with alternative specs I would follow those. They may be a stronger bolt that can handle the additional torque.
I love the Dakar Leaf spring kits. I have a set on my 95Toyota pickup. They offer additional weight handling with slight lift and still ride and flex decent. Might ride a little rougher when the truck is completely empty but not bad.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks I always appreciate you because you keep responding to your viewers and subscribers. Thanks a lot! Kind as always!
I have a 2016 TRD sport 6ft bed. I just purchased these 5100’s. What clip setting do you suggest I use to level the front with the rear? I usually never have anything in the bed. I’m using the stock coil in the front and stock suspension in the rear. Truck has 265/70/17 bfg KO2’s. Thanks!
The third position from the bottom should make it sit very close to level. This varies slightly from truck to truck and if the truck is completely empty or if you have anything in the bed. If you are running any weight in the bed then you may want the second position from the bottom. The second position gives 0.6” of lift and the third gives about 1” of lift.
ThePracticalMechanic just installed the 5100s on the front on the 3rd notch and it seems a little nose high? Will the suspension settle?
Snowboarding204 I would drive it a few miles and see if it settles. That position normally levels the truck but if you rear springs have sagged at all it will be nose high on the third clip position.
With your experience, how much stiffer is the 5100 at the highest setting compare to stock suspension on the TRDoff road ?
The height setting will only have minor effects on the ride stiffness but if you crank it all the way up you are more likely to run out of extension travel when hitting bumps. This will make the ride seem a lot rougher than stock but this only occurs when hitting a bump or dip at higher speed or driving over a whoops and sand bars. They have about the same ride as the factory TRD off road shocks but I don't have any long term driving experience with a low mileage set of the factory ones. The shock body and the shaft are larger which should make them last longer than the factory ones.
Thanks for replying , I appreciate it ... so if I do this same setting on my truck 5100 on the highest setting would be safe? I have a 4 door 4x4 off road , same as the video
it would be safe but you may have accelerated wear on CV axle boots and ball joints. The alignment shop should be able to get the alignment correct but just barely. If they run out of adjustment then you will need aftermarket upper control arms. The axle boot problem can be solved by installing a front differential drop kit and that will reduce the CV axle angle slightly. Honestly I haven't had any issues at all on the newer Tacomas when running the full height setting as long as you are running the factory springs. If you install a stiffer spring then you may want to drop down a few grooves on the shock.
What,if any, problems would I run into if I added an extra 1in spacer to get a 3in lift? How would I remedy these problems? And what shock and what size spacer would I need in the rear to level my truck?
You would need a differential drop for sure to prevent axle damage. Your rack and pinion will have additional stress applied because of the angle of the tie rods. In order to get the alignment into spec you will need aftermarket upper control arms from either SPC or Total Chaos. You may have to get longer brake hoses or relocate the mounting. For the rear you might only need a 2” lift block for the truck to sit level but you will have to measure how the truck sits now. If the rear sits high now then you won’t need as much lift in the rear. And then rear shocks for either a 2” or 3” lift should work. With all that you may still run into other issues down the road.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I currently have a 3in level kit which I think is actually a 2in kit and I am running 285 75 17s with 1.25 wheel spacers. With this set up i have a little bit of tire rub which i think with a little more trimmimg i can get rid of. Do you think I can still use these tires with the bilstein 5100s?
-N _Hunter You will probably still have to do some trimming for a tire that size. Normally a 2.5”-3” lift required, smash the pinch welds on the inner fenders, cut some of the plastics and do a cab mount chop. The 2” lift of this shock might not give you enough but with the spacer like you asked you should be able to get the height you need.
Why is the “5th clip position only recommended for 4x4 v6 long beds”? I have a long bed 2wd 4cyl. Would that cause issues ??
Frankie Salazar The 4 x 4 V6 long bed is the heaviest out of all of them. The 2x4 4 cylinder short bed is probably the lightest. The later trucks may experience overextension of the strut while exiting dips and bumps. It may not cause any damage but will feel unpleasant at times. To gain extra height a small spacer above the strut may be required.
ThePracticalMechanic oh ok that makes sense. So maybe 1” spacers in addition to using the 5100’s on a lower setting would be a better way to give the same amount of lift? Thanks
Frankie Salazar that would give you the most usable suspension travel without sacrificing ride quality too much. Make sure the 1” spacer goes on top of the mount and not on top of the coil spring.
I was thinking about doing this for my 09 Tacoma. Are you located in CO?
derekngray Yeah I’m in Colorado. I really think it make these Tacoma’s look good to have a slight lift and without going so highly that you lose functionality of the truck.
Was the shock set to maximum setting? I was told it could go up to 2 1/2in HI
MrOnetwentyone the clip settings shown in this video were taken from the instructions provided with the struts and towards the end of the video I show the difference before and after. We gained just over 2” on the highest setting. Some companies sell a lift spring that when combined with this strut will allow you to lift the truck higher. Honestly anything over 1.5-2” of lift obtained by adjusting the clip setting or installing taller springs will put more strain on the CV boots and axles. You will also fully extend the shock more often because you are already closer to the maximum extended length of the shock.
I thin spacer above the strut may be the best bet to gain the additional .5” of lift as well as a differential drop kit to save the axles.
Or throw some sand bags in the back to squat the rear and slightly lift the front.
I have a 2019 trd off road and I'm wanting to level my truck and fit 285/70/17s, will I be able too with just the front shocks?
You will be able to level it with these shocks but you may still have slight rubbing on the inner fenders while turning. Most just trim plastics and smash the pinch welds if rubbing occurs.
@@ThePracticalMechanic will I be fine with just the fronts or should I get the rears also?
TurboSnake many of these truck sag in the rear with even the smallest loads but it takes quite a bit for the rear tires to rub. If you want a small lift and are planning on carrying gear then I would go with OME Dakar springs or an add-a-leaf. If you aren’t planning on putting anything in the back the a spacer block would work but isn’t ideal.
Everything sounds so risky I just purchased a 2019 trd I only wanted to pick it up slightly to add a 32” tire but I don’t want my axcle in a bad angle . Iv done a lot of research and even heard bad things about diff drops . So I’m at a loss and don’t know what to really do.
Well the trd pro is taller then the trd so you should be safe lifting it to that height. I think the TRD pro is on average 1” taller than the TRD sport. A lifted vehicle never handles quite like a stock ride and the components don’t last quite as long either.
You got a new sub! Question, any vibration issue in this kind of setup? T
Highest setting is not applicable to 4x4 short bed taco? Thanks
Hey VJTrey1 and thanks for the sub. I think the reason they only recommend the 5th position for the v6 long bed is the weight of the truck itself. The V6 long bed should be the heaviest off the show room floor and since the rear axle is further back the front suspension is likely holding more weight than the short bed version. Of course with out testing this on a scale I could just be blowing smoke. The short bed and 4cyl models may ride slightly higher than the V6 long bed truck when riding in this maximum position and may exceed the recommended angles of the suspension and cv axle shafts. If you were to run the 5th clip position you may get some vibration because of the CV axle shaft angle but this could be fixed with a differential drop kit and then you may also need a little more lift in the rear to get the truck to sit level. Hope this helps and have an awesome weekend.
Thanks if i do 4th notch it shouldn't be an issue? I'll put dakar in rear and diff drop
With the diff drop you might get away with the 5th clip position but 4th would be a safer location. I have the Dakar springs in my 1995 Pickup and love them. My 1994 Pickup has a add-a-leaf and it doens't feel like my 1995. The OME Dakar spring is a much better option than a lift block or add-a-leaf. Make sure you get the kit with bushings and longer ubolts as most of the Dakar spring packs have more spring layers and are thicker than stock unless they tell you that Ubolts aren't required.
@@ThePracticalMechanic yeah i planning to use the stock coil i have 2018 tacoma 6k miles
@@VJTrey1 Sweet! Nothing better than working on a new truck with no rust or corrosion. Easiest time to perform suspension upgrades. I other issue is forgot to mention above with the 5th clip position is the risk of over extending the shock when the going out of a dip or over a speed bump. It may not damage the shock but it makes the ride feel harsh and clanky.
do i need a wheel alignment after the front struts installation?
Yes
Question Hi guys, i bought a shocks kit Blistein B8 5100, for my 1986 Ford f150 4x4, they are for 4 inch front lift and 2 inch rear lift. My truck is lifted 2 inch front and 2 inch rear. Wiill i have a problem on installing the fronts shocks?will they work fine? or is a big mistake?? thanks guys!
Part Number: 24-185523
Bilstein B8 5100 shock absorbers are designed as a direct fit solution for lifted trucks and SUV’s. These shock absorbers feature a monotube design which provides consistent fade free performance. B8 5100 shock absorbers utilize a unique, velocity sensitive, digressive piston which reacts to changing road conditions. All B8 5100 shock absorbers are tuned for each specific application to assure optimal performance is achieved. B8 5100 shock absorbers offer a significant improvement in ride quality, handling, and comfort.
Collapsed Length (IN)12.17
Extended Length (IN)18.98
Collapsed Length (MM)309
Extended Length (MM)482.2
FinishZinc Plated
ReservoirNo
Body DesignSmooth Body (Non-Coilover)
Body Diameter46mm
Fabrizio Lanata if the collapsed length is too long and you go through a dip or over bump too fast you can bottom out the shock. This can damage the shock internally. I would compair them to the length of your current shocks when compress/collapsed and see how much longer they are. I’m running 4” procomp shocks on the back of my Hilux but only have a 2” lift and if I load the back up with gear I can feel the shock bottom out over large bumps. The plus side is I get more suspension travel than the correct shock.
If they seem too long I would return them and get the correct ones.
Great response thanks!
Current (no lift): EXTENDED LENGTH: 14.50 inches
: COMPRESSED LENGTH: 10.34 inches
lifted 2 inches want to install: EXTENDED LENGTH: 18.98 inches
COMPRESSED LENGTH 12.17 inches
It appear it will fit fine or don't? :)
Fabrizio Lanata it looks like the compressed length is only 2” longer so it should work. If it does work you will gain a bunch of extension travel. Just make sure that your coil spring doesn’t fall out at full extension and that your brake lines are long enough.
Thanks again guys!
If you use the 2 “ setting will it have a harsh ride ?
If you have a standard cab or a 4cylinder it might ride harsh. The v6 and longer wheelbase truck have less issues at 2” and above.
What perch setting on the 5100s would I go with if I just wanted to level out my ‘17 TRD off-road? Reusing the stock coil also. I do not want the front end higher than the rear end.
Andrew Shearin The third position from the bottom should make it sit very close to level. This varies slightly from truck to truck and if the truck is completely empty or if you have anything in the bed. If you are running any weight in the bed then you may want the second position from the bottom. The second position gives 0.6” of lift and the third gives about 1” of lift.
Will these shocks will be ok on 2019 Toyota Tacoma sr5 2wd
I would check the application guide and make sure that they fit the 2wd version and you may get more lift on each setting due to lower weight.
Did you get stock alignment after the lift?
Yes I put the alignment back to stock for the most part. On some vehicles I will add a little bit of caster (+1 degree) all of the other specs will work fine and with the factory control arms you should be able to get everything in spec with 2” of lift.
ThePracticalMechanic thanks for the quick response :)
Wanted a lift but aftermarket uca was out my budget
What coils do you recommend with a steel bumper up front? I’m currently running the 5100’s front and rear with stock coil.
Are you running a lift kit? Old Man Emu makes several different spring rates but they can cause a slightly stiffer ride and thy only show 2” lift springs. They have the 887 standard rate spring with 2” lift, the 888 Medium rate for 2” lift plus steel bumper weight and they have 886 heavy rate for 2” lift with steel bumper and winch.
There are other brands that offer similar options as well but OME is a very well known brand in the off-road Toyota community.
Hope this helps out a bit. 👍🏻
ThePracticalMechanic i just have the 5100’s set to level the truck out. I also noticed today that for some reason the driver side sits about a half inch lower then the passenger side. I’m not sure how long it’s been like that. Both are set the same to the 4th setting i believe. I can’t remember from install but looking at it it looks to be the fourth.
ThePracticalMechanic i have a 2017 trd off road double cab long box for reference.
5L Bar Outdoors The notorious TACO lean. Almost all of them lean a little bit and sometimes it caused by the front springs and sometimes the rear. If you run a heavier spring to help support the bumper then you will probably have to drop down the the 1st or 2nd clip position. Because most of the heavy springs only come in a 2” lift option.
I know this is an older video but can someone recommend me a leveling set up for my 2016 4x4 access cab ... if i went with bilsteins what perch setting would i want the 2nd or 3rd ? I just want to level up the truck
Thanks
It really depends on how far the front and rear springs have sagged over the years. The 2nd clip position will level most trucks.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks! Also can you tell me, if i were to just do the bilsteins to level my truck (using 2nd perch) would it be necessary to do the diff drop?
@@TADDs101 at the 2nd position I wouldn’t worry about the diff drop.
Did you notice a major difference in ride quality?
I didn't take this Tacoma Off Road becasue it was a customers but it drove nice on the road. I have similar ones on my 4runner and they perform better than the stock ones and the aftermarket OE replacement ones that I took off.
Does this cause any problems with the needle bearing?
I haven’t seen any accelerated wear on the needle bearings and some of these trucks have over 100k with a lift. It always seems like the left axle has a lot of slop compared to the right but I think that is just the nature of the beast.
Installing a diff drop will help with the cv angle as well.
Thanks for the video and answers!! I’m about to do this on my truck myself. I cannot find 6112 anywhere and supposedly they are back ordered. That’s why I’m going with 5100s
So, best setting is the 4th notch or 1.55 setting right? So not to aggravate the other suspension components
I think true level would be 2nd or 3rd notch but most like the truck slightly higher in the front. Anything above the 3rd notch should also have the diff drop kit installed.
No need for diff drop or anything else?
I prefer a diff drop on anything over 1.5” but isn’t required. If a spacer lift is used above the strut then a diffdrop will be required.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks. Is there a rule if u lift 2” then 1” diff drop. Or is it 1:1?
Nothing in the back ??
I’m doing install this week. What tools, sicker sizes are needed? I have torque, jack stands, floor jacket and some sockets. Just want to make sure I have everything in advance.
Sokha Hay - As long as your truck is all original Then you should need 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21 mm sockets, 14 and 19mm wrenches and you may need some pliers and a prybar. Also since you are doing the rear then you may need a 19 and/or 21 mm deep socket for the u-bolts on the leaf springs ( I would recommend 1/2”drive and a longer ratchet or breaker bar. When you torque the u-bolts start with half the torque spec and use a crisscross pattern so they tighten evenly and then torque to final spec. I would also re-torque all bolts after you 200-500 miles on the truck. Are you getting the complete strut with upper mount already installed? If not you need a strut compressor or stop by you mechanic and see what the cash price is to compress the spring and swap the strut. Normally $20-$40 for a tech to do it on his lunch break.
If I missed anything let me know. Happy wrenching!
Thank you so much! This is super helpful. I ordered the coils and strut assembled. I figured it was worth the $80. One last question, do you have specs on torque for the all the nuts?
Definitely worth $80 to have them ready to go. Some of these specs seem high but its what I have. The top 3 nuts are 47ft/lbs although you may not be able to get a torque wrench in there, sway bar link to the knuckle 52ft/lbs, lower strut mounting bolt 61ft/lbs, upper ball joint to knuckle 81ft/lbs, wheels 83ft/lbs, lower control arm bolts 135ft/lbs (check this after the alignment shop is done), rear shock upper nut 15ft/lbs, rear shock lower nut 43ft/lbs, rear leaf spring and shackle bolts 89ft/lbs, u-bolts 52ft/lbs.
Make sure they didn't include revised torques specs for the kit.
Also if you need more specific repair information and specs Toyota has a fairly cheap option to get the factory repair information. Its $20 for a 2 day subscription and you can look up the exact repair information based on your VIN number. The website is techinfo.toyota.com I would get all the information you can while you have an active subscription.
Sokha Hay where did you get them for $80 assembled
Several of the companies that sell this lift kit offer assembly of the strut for an additional $80 on top of the price you pay for the kit. This is worth it if you don't have access to a spring compressor or if you want to be able to keep or sell the complete original strut. You specify what height you want them set to and they assemble the strut with a new upper mount and spring.
Do I need camber bolt yes or on
The lower control arm is equipped with camber bolts already. If that doesn’t get the alignment in spec you need to replace the upper control arm with an adjustable version from specialty products or total chaos.
ThePracticalMechanic ok thank you
Where are you located? I’d love for you to work on my Tacoma!
leedew59 Our shop is in southern Colorado. Not sure if your in Colorado or not. Are you looking for a just a leveling kit/lift kit or a full service automotive repair shop?
ThePracticalMechanic Lift kit for my 2018 TRD Off-road. Looking for 1” to 1.5” lift all way around.
leedew59 If you live nearby then we can arrange something. You can send me you contact info to chad@thepracticalmechanic.com if you want me setup an appointment.
Is a spring compressor needed?
For removal of the front struts?
If you purchase the complete assembly with spring and upper mount then you don’t need a spring compressor. If you buy just the strut then you will need a spring compressor to transfer the spring and mount to the new strut.
ThePracticalMechanic wow really quick reply! Yeah, I’m replacing them with 5100 this weekend and I heard from someone that you would need to have a spring compressor to remove the stock struts. The struts already came assembled.
John Nguyen As long as you don’t remove the center nut at the top of the strut you are good to go without the compressor. If you decide to change the height of the snap ring then you will need a compressor.
ThePracticalMechanic thank you so much for the help!
Are 5100's any good
I have installed many sets over the years on Toyota 4Runners, Tacomas and Tundras. I have never had to replace one for leaks or for a bouncy ride. Just like the factory unit the lower bushing can wear out over time and cause squeaks. I think they are one of the best "bang for your buck" strut/shock available for the Toyota IFS platforms. It gives you the ability to make adjustments to the height without having to buy expensive coil over units. I have them on my 1996 4Runner and they ride better than the OEM ones I took off but they were very worn out.
2 inches? Why bother?
more than 2 inches adds a lot of addition parts required and issues to solve. I prefer 1.5" just for some additional ground and tire clearance.
You torqued nothing in the suspension, then you torqued the lug nuts! Hahaha. No mention of alignment.
I dont get it.....this wheelie look is a joke.....I'm in ny and there is no use for a desert truck.....it looks like it ready to run through the sand the way they should be down south....there useless...im about to do the same thing...but with the 5100 in the and the 4160/4600 what ever...in the rear...is going to ride like crap......hit me up if anyone is looking for the factory bilstein shocks...brand new...