How to Install the One Wire Alternator in a F100
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- Check out my website for car parts and merch that I am selling - krusebuilt.com/
I wanted to replace and simplify my Alternator and Wiring by upgrading to a One-Wire Alternator in my 1968 F100.
Tuff Stuff 100A One Wire Alternator, part number 7068, Amazon Link - amzn.to/475MX7x
1968 F100, 360ci V8, 4 spd, 2WD, Long Bed.
Shot with GoPro Hero 12 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 18.
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I have a 79 ford f100 and got that same alternator. Ive been having issues with overthinking it but, then you posted this video.
Awesome, you've got this! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks
Great upgrade! I put one of these (150amp) on my old Chevy and it made a huge improvement in charging system. Note: Tuff Stuff recommends running a dedicated ground (from battery or the exact spot on the engine that is grounded to the battery) to the ground tab designed into the alternator housing because block iron doesn't conduct as well as copper. Also, you ran the super large positive copper wire which is great but is also now limited by the ground through housing method. You might consider adding the dedicated ground. Cool video! That truck is getting stronger every day.
Thanks for the heads up.
Nice upgrade. Those spaces on the heads are awesome, you are right lol
You can't tell me when I'm right, it goes to my head. :)
I got to do this with my 1972 f100, thank you
Awesome, you've got this! :)
When I did this on my 69 mustang, I ran an inline fuse between the red wire and the solenoid. I recommend adding that in. I also added a ground from the alternator to the block… as you said… not required but good to have.
Thanks for the heads up.
100 amp, are we prepping to add some additional electronics? Nice video.
You never know..... :)
So I assume I can do this to my 66 mustang and is the voltage regulator on the mustang in the driver side on the rad support
Yes, and I have a video of doing the same thing on my '66 Mustang, check it out!
Correct, the voltage regulator is on the driver side core support, next to the radiator. :)
I’m m missing a lot of likes. You should mention it sooner because I forget. Then I loose my order of videos. I’m new to RUclips so it’s possible I’m screwing up. But other people seems to have a little more time after reminding me to like the video. Just saying it might be limiting your likes. But I enjoy watching anyway. I’m not really sure how it works but I’m sure it affects your sponsorships . Just a fyi
I don't have any sponsorships, so the likes don't help or hurt me there. I actually don't like saying it, but it's been my closing statement for over 4 years, so....... :)
No offense I’m just making a suggestion. I guess some of these guys kinda count on likes. But know iv seen and enjoyed many (a dozen) or more of your videos. And get many ideas from you. Thanks. I’m breaking ground in spring for my bigger garage. With a big lift. I’ve been an auto body and mechanic for over 40 years. And as you know the newer cars aren’t made to be worked on. I did think for decades they was assembled on a line to build faster. But now it seems they are focusing on making things much more difficult so nobody wants to work on them. But the early 70s and earlier cars are made much more serviceable and less complicated. So I’m going old school at home and into retirement. But thanks for sharing your experiences. And if you ever wanted to do a body restoration video. I would be happy to share some of my experience And shop Older cars are way more simple. And looks like your fastback could eventually use some sheet metal. And panel alignment . For me that stuff is way easier than building a 289 combustible engine. But after watching your videos I feel more confident about it. In your hood gap issue you probably just need a couple shims on the hinge or shim the fender out. A 1/8” might be too much. Maybe a 32nd on each would make a huge difference. The newer stuff isn’t adjustable without tweaking twisting or bending things. You only get 3 mill of tolerance. The older stuff a tram gage and shims and you can really make a huge difference . Remember I’m not being critical I’m only reaching out
Amp light will not work.
Correct, I'm not wiring it up for it to work. :)