Wow. I did that a couple of months ago using Sno-Seal and I thought I was crazy but it turned out so great! Love this Brand and love this customer relationship !
Sno-Seal is good stuff. I apply it in a manner very similar to what's shown here. The only difference is that I can smooth on the Sno-Seal with a finger without having to melt it so it's a little easier and a little faster.
Yeah, sno-seal has some solvents in it so its much more liquid that pure beeswax, melts to the touch. With that, you're supposed to heat the leather itself before applying.
I decided to experiment after observing principles at play and had fun making my own formula. Pure wax goes solid way too quickly, almost on touch with leather, 90% wax paste is easier to spread over, adding grease to melted paste will make it sink slightly deeper but makes leather softer. Around 25-30% black natural shoe grease mixed to 70-75% paste with 90% wax gave what felt like good balance between possibility to sink deeper and not overconditioning the suede too much - tried for water resistance easier absorbed moisture, but scratching the outside and on the bending was not that big of a problem. I admire anybody who can make wax actually stay in the leather on bending line.
"Huberds Shoe Grease" is what we use out here in the Pacific North West on our roughout leather. Beeswax, pinetar, and some type of non animal oil, all mixed together, and put in a can is how it's made and sold.
@@WesternRAM sometimes I'll use fingers, sometimes I'll use a old tee shirt strip. It's non toxic so it can be applied any way you prefer. I think the first time I used my fingers with rubber gloves, after that it just depended on whatever I had available.
Really enjoying this channel on how the boots are made. How to care for the boots. The use of the boots with the rangers. Great sights of Africa. Keep up the awesome things you are doing. Great stuff here.
OK I'm sold. I'm doing this to my Rangers with Otter Wax! Love your boots! I like the idea of buying a product and then putting a bit of work into making it your own. The Razorback will be my next pair of Jim Green's. Thanks and keep making great boots!
This came out better than I expected. I just ordered a custom pair of AR8's in tan rough-out. I think I will treat them when they arrive with DWR spray like I use on my rough-out tankers. It isn't the appearance that I object to with the wax. It is the way the surface collects sand when waxed that is the issue. As soon as cape buffalo hide is available again I will be ordering another custom pair.
careful with non natural waterproofing, lots of them seal the leather, meaning when your feet sweat the moisture is trapped in the leather and can cause it to rot. Silicone spsrays are especially bad for it,
I would advise putting a 50/50 mix of beeswax and castor oil in a mason jar; melting it in a double boiler, pressure cooker, etc.; shake it up, let it cool and go solid. With that mixture, you can spread it onto the boots easier cuz it'll melt in your hands. Once it goes solid on the boots, you'll have a coat of wax on the surface which can be melted into the leather with a heat gun.
I just bought a pair of "Rogue" boots (sorry "Jim Green", next time I promise) and I used a German product that is like goose fat, this works well but with all these treatments the colour will darken and the texture of the boot may change, also pr-melt the wax in a tin and use a paintbrush, it is MUCH quicker and you get a more even coating, then use the heat gun. If this is the first time you have done this treatment I recommend that you do more than one coat as the leather will drink any waxes or oils you use and one treatment will only be half a job, so neither here nor there. Do the job right the first time and good luck to you all, Thanks for this Jim Green.
Hello, interesting, what is the name of the German product you use? I use Hey Sport Beeswax and have had very good experiences with it. The product nourishes and impregnates and is inexpensive. Greetings Robby
I’m an extreme cheapskate, I cut my own hair and buy almost nothing. I bought the African Rangers and use them every day. Definitely worth the money, everything has held up after 2 years. They have a cool patina on them now like a tobacco brown, I get compliments in them all the time. If you take care of them they will last a long time
I think it would be easier to just melt a small piece of the beeswax and then apply it. It melts at a pretty low heat so you can do it using hot water.
An idea for a video: A showcase of all the different types of leathers you have available and how they look after some use. This process is often called "dubbing" and originates to atleast back to WW1 where soldiers would use a method similar to this to water proof their boots. Very common to do on Brittish B5 boots for example.
I've used Chelsea Dubbin Leatherfood on all my kangaroo leather football boots for years. Not totally waterproof, but keeps them from getting sopping wet in a downpour over 90min. I'll have to see if it's OK to use on my vellies.
it probably would have been easier to use a double boiler and melt the wax and dip the toothbrush straight into melted wax before application. they look great though. i think i'll do the same with mine as soon as they become a bit dirty and uneven in color.
Right….its an older vid but hope there is a reply…. Have you got any pics of how these patina’d? I’ve been looking at the Horween Waxed Flash on the Thursdays but I don’t like the Logger boot it comes on. If it wears up nice…..then I recon I have the solution on some Fudge Rangers………
Good day and thanks for the interest, Unfortunately we do not have any pictures of these boots post wax. We have released a cleaning guide on our Fudge Crazy Horse leather that should give a better idea as to how the boots look post waxing 💪
So why buy a tan coloured shoe if it ends up as dark brown? I am by no means an expert in shoecare: but is beeswax really appropriate for suede leather?
I just bought a brand new pair of Razerbacks in fudge. Is this safe to do with them to water protect them? It's been raining and I've been afraid to wear them. Can't decide what I should do to protect them. Is there a better means of protecting them from water? Thanks Jim Green
@@immutablecantrip I have done this to a lot of different leathers, though not my boots. The leather will darken, often significantly. It will also stiffen depending on how much wax you apply/absorb into the leather. Over time you may get a white film on the surface as wax works its way back out (this buffs out). Creases in the leather will be accented (this may be a good thing). The leather will be less breathable. In sunlight or exposed to other heat sources wax may bleed from the leather into other materials that are in contact with it. Downsides would mostly be cosmetic changes for better or worse, though the loss of breathability could be significant too. Different leathers will also respond differently depending on how they have already been tanned.
Hi Mal, thank you for the support towards Jim Green Footwear. You are able to replicate the process onto your Brown Leather Razorbacks. Andrew has pointed out many key pros and cons to the process you may experience and yes, this will improve the water resistant properties of your boots💪 Please do let us know if we may assist any further with your boots.
Don't fear the water. Getting the boots squishy wet will only make them fit better. A good waxing will prevent the leather from getting stiff when it dries.
Hello, any treatment of suede with any product will reduce the breathability of the leather. But that's less bad than having wet feet when it rains. Greetings Robby
Hi Bevin, thank you for your interest towards Jim Green Footwear, much appreciated. This video was submitted by a customer and was originally +- 1 hour long for the waxing process on 1 foot.
Hello, the treatment is good for the leather, but the appearance will change a lot - the leather will be very dark thereafter - that's something you have to know and like. Greetings Robby
Thanks for the feedback but this we do not recommend doing as putting boots in the oven will have a negative effect on the leather and a chance of the sole delaminating. It’a best to keep boots away from any direct heat as much as possible
@@JimGreenFootwearOfficial my apologies, I've been using this technique to wax my gloves and boots for years, but didn't think about the fact that you glue the out sole (not stitched) to the mid sole?! Makes perfect sense! Love your boots!
@@Tommyboy0670 even boots w/ stitched soles have glue holding things together. But specifically the glue used for soles is heat activated & too much heat will cause the glue to fail.
@@Tommyboy0670 Most boots, even boots that use sticthing on the outsoles, are also glued. Glue is simply a far better adhesive when it comes to soles than a simple row of stitches.
@@IJusaI Understood, I wasn't trying to start an argument, this is just something I was taught many, many years ago from my grandfather and my father. It's worked incredibly well for my over the years. YMMV.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow. I did that a couple of months ago using Sno-Seal and I thought I was crazy but it turned out so great! Love this Brand and love this customer relationship !
Thanks for the support David, any techniques you may have welcome to pass onto us. We always interested to see our customers tricks
Sno-Seal is good stuff. I apply it in a manner very similar to what's shown here. The only difference is that I can smooth on the Sno-Seal with a finger without having to melt it so it's a little easier and a little faster.
Yeah, sno-seal has some solvents in it so its much more liquid that pure beeswax, melts to the touch. With that, you're supposed to heat the leather itself before applying.
I use something similar on my rough in (regular boots), adding excess on the stitching, and use a heat gun to melt it into the stitching and leather.
I decided to experiment after observing principles at play and had fun making my own formula. Pure wax goes solid way too quickly, almost on touch with leather, 90% wax paste is easier to spread over, adding grease to melted paste will make it sink slightly deeper but makes leather softer. Around 25-30% black natural shoe grease mixed to 70-75% paste with 90% wax gave what felt like good balance between possibility to sink deeper and not overconditioning the suede too much - tried for water resistance easier absorbed moisture, but scratching the outside and on the bending was not that big of a problem. I admire anybody who can make wax actually stay in the leather on bending line.
These looks so great. Waxed rough out is the way to go. The way it breaks in and wears through is awesome.
Nothing like that extra touch of character from the Beeswax 💪🐸
"Huberds Shoe Grease" is what we use out here in the Pacific North West on our roughout leather. Beeswax, pinetar, and some type of non animal oil, all mixed together, and put in a can is how it's made and sold.
I just bought some Huberds. Do you apply it by hand?
@@WesternRAM sometimes I'll use fingers, sometimes I'll use a old tee shirt strip. It's non toxic so it can be applied any way you prefer. I think the first time I used my fingers with rubber gloves, after that it just depended on whatever I had available.
@@IMAXXHEW thanks!
Really enjoying this channel on how the boots are made. How to care for the boots. The use of the boots with the rangers. Great sights of Africa. Keep up the awesome things you are doing. Great stuff here.
Thank you for the support and kind words James! 💪💪
OK I'm sold. I'm doing this to my Rangers with Otter Wax! Love your boots! I like the idea of buying a product and then putting a bit of work into making it your own. The Razorback will be my next pair of Jim Green's. Thanks and keep making great boots!
All the best for the journeys ahead and should you have any questions please do get in touch, we are happy to assist along the way 🐸💪
I use obenaufs heavy duty LP because it has beeswax and conditioners, but I know everybody has their preferred leather care methods.
This came out better than I expected. I just ordered a custom pair of AR8's in tan rough-out. I think I will treat them when they arrive with DWR spray like I use on my rough-out tankers. It isn't the appearance that I object to with the wax. It is the way the surface collects sand when waxed that is the issue. As soon as cape buffalo hide is available again I will be ordering another custom pair.
careful with non natural waterproofing, lots of them seal the leather, meaning when your feet sweat the moisture is trapped in the leather and can cause it to rot. Silicone spsrays are especially bad for it,
I would advise putting a 50/50 mix of beeswax and castor oil in a mason jar; melting it in a double boiler, pressure cooker, etc.; shake it up, let it cool and go solid. With that mixture, you can spread it onto the boots easier cuz it'll melt in your hands. Once it goes solid on the boots, you'll have a coat of wax on the surface which can be melted into the leather with a heat gun.
I use toilet rings, a coffee can, and cut it with boiled linseed oil. Melt it down with a heat gun and brush on. Same process with duck cloth.
Can it applied for suede coat jacket?
I've had good success with beeswax and lanolin. That's what Sno-seal is but I make my own as well.
@Memoirevoir I suspect that you will not care for the discoloration or the increase in weight of the material. DWR spray is much better on suede.
I just bought a pair of "Rogue" boots (sorry "Jim Green", next time I promise) and I used a German product that is like goose fat, this works well but with all these treatments the colour will darken and the texture of the boot may change, also pr-melt the wax in a tin and use a paintbrush, it is MUCH quicker and you get a more even coating, then use the heat gun.
If this is the first time you have done this treatment I recommend that you do more than one coat as the leather will drink any waxes or oils you use and one treatment will only be half a job, so neither here nor there.
Do the job right the first time and good luck to you all, Thanks for this Jim Green.
Hello,
interesting, what is the name of the German product you use?
I use Hey Sport Beeswax and have had very good experiences with it. The product nourishes and impregnates and is inexpensive. Greetings Robby
I mixed 50% mink oil and neatsfoot oil and melted them together. Then applied to the boot. Worked great and I didn't need to use a heat gun
Cool video....but I'm not sure why someone would want to do this? Waterproofing? Can anyone help?
It's to protect from stains and water
Waterproofing and conditioning the leather. Leather must be "fed" or it dries out and cracks.
Could you heat the bees wax in a pan, and then brush it on as if you were painting?
Obenauf's, Huberd's, or Blackrock are all great treatments.
That brown looks beautiful
Still haven't gotten a pair of Jim Green Ranger boots but hope to one day. Keep up the great informative videos. thanks JG 🐸
The African Rangers are on Amazon and pretty cheap too
I’m an extreme cheapskate, I cut my own hair and buy almost nothing. I bought the African Rangers and use them every day. Definitely worth the money, everything has held up after 2 years. They have a cool patina on them now like a tobacco brown, I get compliments in them all the time. If you take care of them they will last a long time
💪🐸
You can save a lot of time by melting the wax in a pot and then applying it with a brush. Anyway, good work and results.
I think it would be easier to just melt a small piece of the beeswax and then apply it. It melts at a pretty low heat so you can do it using hot water.
Shoes look cool. I would be interested in trying a wax warmer or scentcy. This might allow for hot wax one shoe at a time
im definitely no expert, but wouldn't it work to microwave the wax or put it in a hot water bath?
Sno-seal is a mixture of beeswax and lanolin that goes on without heat although a heat gun makes it more uniform more quickly.
An idea for a video: A showcase of all the different types of leathers you have available and how they look after some use.
This process is often called "dubbing" and originates to atleast back to WW1 where soldiers would use a method similar to this to water proof their boots. Very common to do on Brittish B5 boots for example.
I would love to see all the boots aged. I love the broken in look on the leather. My Fudge African Rangers look better and better with time
Hi Jusa, thank you for the great suggestion! We do have something in the works for this video idea. There are some boots aging on feet as we speak 💪💪
We can only imagine the epic Patina coming through! Nothing beats a Fudge Ranger and its patina 💪
I've used Chelsea Dubbin Leatherfood on all my kangaroo leather football boots for years. Not totally waterproof, but keeps them from getting sopping wet in a downpour over 90min. I'll have to see if it's OK to use on my vellies.
Could you do a test like this on the Razorback Fudge, i'm looking at using a product called Dubbin to waterproof.
Is there a way to eliminate the tacky/sticky feeling on vellies that have been overwaxed?
it probably would have been easier to use a double boiler and melt the wax and dip the toothbrush straight into melted wax before application. they look great though. i think i'll do the same with mine as soon as they become a bit dirty and uneven in color.
Heat treat the shoe with the heat gun before applying wax. Wax penetrates better
Right….its an older vid but hope there is a reply….
Have you got any pics of how these patina’d? I’ve been looking at the Horween Waxed Flash on the Thursdays but I don’t like the Logger boot it comes on. If it wears up nice…..then I recon I have the solution on some Fudge Rangers………
Good day and thanks for the interest, Unfortunately we do not have any pictures of these boots post wax. We have released a cleaning guide on our Fudge Crazy Horse leather that should give a better idea as to how the boots look post waxing 💪
Where can I get me a wax block like that
Find a local bee keeper or eBay & Amazon.
So why buy a tan coloured shoe if it ends up as dark brown?
I am by no means an expert in shoecare: but is beeswax really appropriate for suede leather?
Ok, I now want to custom order the Razorback with the rough-out leather.
I just bought a brand new pair of Razerbacks in fudge. Is this safe to do with them to water protect them? It's been raining and I've been afraid to wear them. Can't decide what I should do to protect them. Is there a better means of protecting them from water? Thanks Jim Green
Also what are the downsides of doing this?
@@immutablecantrip I have done this to a lot of different leathers, though not my boots. The leather will darken, often significantly. It will also stiffen depending on how much wax you apply/absorb into the leather. Over time you may get a white film on the surface as wax works its way back out (this buffs out). Creases in the leather will be accented (this may be a good thing). The leather will be less breathable. In sunlight or exposed to other heat sources wax may bleed from the leather into other materials that are in contact with it. Downsides would mostly be cosmetic changes for better or worse, though the loss of breathability could be significant too. Different leathers will also respond differently depending on how they have already been tanned.
Hi Mal, thank you for the support towards Jim Green Footwear. You are able to replicate the process onto your Brown Leather Razorbacks. Andrew has pointed out many key pros and cons to the process you may experience and yes, this will improve the water resistant properties of your boots💪 Please do let us know if we may assist any further with your boots.
Don't fear the water. Getting the boots squishy wet will only make them fit better. A good waxing will prevent the leather from getting stiff when it dries.
What color are these?
Both pair were factory-tan before waxing
@@hjnebus Khaki or Chestnut?
Sorry, Khaki. Actual boot owner, not actual boot expert.
@@hjnebus Haha, gotcha. Thanks! They turned out great.
How will the legs breathe after that ?
Hello, any treatment of suede with any product will reduce the breathability of the leather.
But that's less bad than having wet feet when it rains.
Greetings Robby
You should give this task to king Charls on his coronation day maan😂😂
😂😂
How long does it take in real time?
Hi Bevin, thank you for your interest towards Jim Green Footwear, much appreciated. This video was submitted by a customer and was originally +- 1 hour long for the waxing process on 1 foot.
Ok….alright then….i got put a bit more wax on then … I thought I was overdoing mine ….thanks man
how often should you rewax them?
This customer only waxed them once when he got them, he then wore them most days of the week for a full year.
Yeah, I only do a full retreatment about once a year unless I get in something really nasty.
Would mink oil work on suede to achieve this or is it not good for the suede. Iv seen mix feelings on this
Hello,
the treatment is good for the leather, but the appearance will change a lot - the leather will be very dark thereafter - that's something you have to know and like.
Greetings Robby
You should just use Hubbard's shoe Grease. You're wasting your time with the beeswax. Great video though
Not a good idea. These shoes will stay sticky for a long time
This is actually MUCH easier if you warm the shoes in the oven at 200 f for a few minutes prior to application.
Thanks for the feedback but this we do not recommend doing as putting boots in the oven will have a negative effect on the leather and a chance of the sole delaminating. It’a best to keep boots away from any direct heat as much as possible
@@JimGreenFootwearOfficial my apologies, I've been using this technique to wax my gloves and boots for years, but didn't think about the fact that you glue the out sole (not stitched) to the mid sole?! Makes perfect sense! Love your boots!
@@Tommyboy0670 even boots w/ stitched soles have glue holding things together. But specifically the glue used for soles is heat activated & too much heat will cause the glue to fail.
@@Tommyboy0670 Most boots, even boots that use sticthing on the outsoles, are also glued. Glue is simply a far better adhesive when it comes to soles than a simple row of stitches.
@@IJusaI Understood, I wasn't trying to start an argument, this is just something I was taught many, many years ago from my grandfather and my father. It's worked incredibly well for my over the years. YMMV.