9 Tips To Install Cheaper Non-DIY Mini Splits - Pioneer/Senville/Mr. Cool
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2024
- See the short follow-up video at: • Addition to my "9 Tips...
CHECK OUT MY COMMENTS BELOW FOR CORRECTIONS AND TIPS!
SORRY ABOUT THE DINGING! I HAVE IMPROVED MY RUclips SKILLS WITH PRACTICE!
Here are links to the heat pump, tools, and materials I used:
Mr. Cool Advantage 18K BTU 19 SEER Heat Pump Split System: amzn.to/2LKQKhD
Spring Bender: amzn.to/3eeSTPr
Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/2y49DIJ
Manifold Gauge Set: amzn.to/39Z27fD
Flaring Tool Set: amzn.to/2V3dxe8
Line Set Cover: amzn.to/2V3KeI0
Plastic Mounting Pad: amzn.to/3edVskU
R410A Adapter: amzn.to/2JZTLKc
Deburring Tool: amzn.to/2Vluhfy
Nylog: amzn.to/2V1uiWK
Non-Fused 30 AMP Electrical Disconnect: amzn.to/3pHTKx2
Hole Saw Set: amzn.to/3rLfoSS
VIDEO CORRECTION: At 6:44, I meant to say that these caps went on the end of the copper pipe sticking out the back of the inside unit, not on the LINESET! The inside unit is charged with nitrogen for shipping purposes. You can tell if your INSIDE UNIT has leaked when you take the caps off. A good hissing sound means the inside unit has not leaked.
The LINESET in the non-DIY models are not charged with anything. They must be vacuumed out before releasing the R410A in the outside unit. The refrigerant then flows through your vacuumed-out evaporator, and when you open the valves, through the rest of the system.
This is not an installation video; there are lots of those on RUclips. I wanted to give you a little tour around an 18,000 BTU mini-split, and discuss some of the details and techniques involved. I have no professional experience whatever regarding these installations. This was the first one I did, and nothing in this video is to be taken as advice. I'm just showing you the way I did it.
For me, the biggest problem with the DIY models is the 15 feet of line you often see coiled into a loop behind the unit. It's ugly, it looks way too DIY, it is easily damaged, and the loops will (supposedly) allow refrigerant oil to collect in the bottom.
The most common mini-split heat pumps often come in Do-It-Yourself and non-DIY models (the Non-DIY Mr. Cools are labeled "Advantage Series". The Non-DIY models cost about half as much -- though they are virtually the same mechanically. But, you need some extra tools, a little more care, and a little more thought to install these. Also, your warranty MAY be invalid if you self-install a non-DIY model. You are paying a good amount extra for the warranty when you buy the DIY versions of these models. Usually, you can buy another entire non-DIY unit for the cost of that warranty. If something goes wrong, you will have the tools, and hopefully the know-how, to fix it. I like to learn about new tools and techniques, and I love tools, so this is an excuse to get more.
There are dozens of different supposed brands of these little heat pumps. But they are all made by Midea, a huge HVAC manufacturer. They are then re-branded as Pioneer, Senville, Mr. Cool, and many more. They differ in the seller support, and some of the documentation. If you look at enough manuals from different models, you will see that trouble codes (in addition to the looks) are usually identical between brands. That's a pretty good giveaway. You might notice the remotes are a little different. I suspect they all have most of the same functions.
Some manuals are more comprehensive than others. That's because each vendor is able to customize their manuals. If you search the web for the INSTALLATION and MAINTENANCE manuals from the various vendors, you can find out just about everything you need to know, including repair and troubleshooting techniques. One manual or the other might have more information than the manual you got with your unit.
I went with Mr. Cool because it turned out to be the cheapest. Also, Home Depot sells these units, so I figure there must be a lot of them out there, which is always good if you are trying to find out something technical.
Here's a tip I didn't manage to put in the video: When you place your outside unit, place it a little toward the front of the pad and a little off to the side. That way, if you screw up the first flare job, you can slide the unit toward the back or left or right to get some breathing room with the line, cut off the bad end, and try it again. However, you should practice enough in advance with the flaring tool so that you know you can do it right. I used the flares that came on the original lineset as guides, trying to make my flares identical to those. There is also information in the manual about exactly how to position the refrigerant line in the flaring tool to make the flare. Practice, and then practice again.
I do not work for anyone, and I received no compensation to do this video.
I just got off the phone with Pioneer and was assured that the 5 yr. warranty was for DIY as well. The confusion comes from them asking for licensed installer info that must only be filled in by the installer. However, it can be left blank for DIYers and the full warranty still applies! Great news! (I deleted my post to the contrary and apologize for misinformation.)
Agreed, that confused me too. Fortunately from my experience Pioneer's support has been great even though I DIY installed my unit. The 2 times I needed parts (a remote and a temp sensor) they quickly shipped them no hassle. The system works reasonably well too considering the price. It's not the quietest or the greatest at maintaining a stable temperature, but it gets the job done without using much electricity.
@@averyalexander2303 Mine is doing pretty well too. Glad to hear support sends parts promptly. I also have the issue of room temp being 3 or 4 degrees cooler then the set temp on AC. Thought there might be a calibration step I missed but couldn't find any.
These tips are the difference of calling a technician after couple of years or many years of trouble free service, thank you.
All of your tips are spot on. I wish I would have known about the spring benders. I kinked one 3/8" line and had to replace it, but luckily I had a spare that I cut off from another unit. I have installed 3 of these on my house in FL and completely turned off my big RUUD central air. It was pulling 1800 watts non-stop almost 24 hours a day. My electric bill went from $10-$16 a day to $4 -$6 a day. We LOVE these mini splits! When we go to bed at night we turn the big 18K in the living room off and just run the small one in the bedroom and close the door. That is the best thing about mini splits. You can create zones and just run units where you need them. Sometimes my wife sleeps in the guest bedroom and she can put the thermostat on a higher temperature in there than I usually keep it in the master bdrm. I cannot report on winter performance yet because I just installed them this summer. But anyway so far they are awesome.
Installed my Mr. Cool 18k today and you along with many other You Tubers greatly helped me along the way, Thank you very much!
Great video! I just finished my mr cool 18k advantage install and you are definitely correct on the larger hole going thru the wall. I wish I watched your video before installing it lol. This will definitely help others. 👍🏼
I am in the process of installing my third Mr Cool DIY unit. Fabulous product. Very good instructions and minimal steps. You can not beat the precharged lines. Getting a HVAC professional in to charge the lines quickly eats up any savings. That is assuming you can even find a HVAC guy who will do it.
Great! My system is still working like new three years after install.
You dont need to add refrigerant unless your lineset is longer than whatever max length in the instructions.
I bought all the tools I need for less than the markup of a unit with pre charged line set, I don't have ugly rolls of extra lineset, and I can reuse the tools when I add more units.
Appreciate the video - You convinced me to hire a pro.
HAHA...I certainly understand that. My overwhelming cheapness kept me from doing the same. Also, I have unlimited time to mess around with such stuff, and that surely makes a difference.
I have installed 2 Senville units and am very happy with them. I knew Senville was made by Midea, but did not realize it was same as Pioneer and Mr Cool so that is interesting. Most brands have the base standard model, and then a higher efficiency unit that is 22+ SEER. Would recommend going with the higher efficiency units which will also heat down to -22. At least my state, there is a rebate available through the power co that the higher efficiency units is eligible for which more than pays for the upgrade over the less efficient model, so there really is no downside. These units have the pan heater, which is a must if you are planning to heat in subfreezing temps since oother wise you will get ice buildup.
I might consider the high efficiency if I planned to run it most of the year. However, I use it occasionally for 4-5 hours at a time in my garage. When I installed it, I was looking for the cheapest option at the time. Thanks for your comment.
Pioneer is mostly or all Gree; Senville is Midea. This can change over time, however. Midea is now the biggest worldwide. Japanese manufacturers, like Mitsubishi and Fujitsu are the best, but you pay for it, and they generally expect their dealer network to install.
Nice video. Only need to watch about 30 more like this until I get the nerve to do an AC install. I thought the dinging noise was fine and didn’t really notice it until I read the comments. Keep up the good content.
Thanks!
What an excellent video. Thank you for doing this
Thanks.
This is the kind of worthwhile video YT needs more of. Thanks for sharing your tips on this. That's the way I am when I do anything -- you want to tell others -- do this, do that and you're welcome. Are you getting good performance from these low end units?
I am thrilled with this unit. It is installed in a well-insulated 650-square foot attached garage. We live in a southwestern state at about a mile high altitude. Our average low in the winter is 20's to 30's, highs in the summer push around 100 for about 2 months. In the afteroon in the summer, the sun just BEATS down on the garage doors. The unit can easily bring the garage to a commfortable temperature in about 15 minutes...either warming it up or cooling it down. This is one of those things I kick myself for not buying a long time ago.
So true on the 3" lineset cover. The struggle to get it to fit is not worth the slight cost savings. Def go up a size on the cover.
Just installed a Pioneer 9000 btu/ 230v. The only thing I hired a pro to do was to pull a vacuum and release the refrigerant. It took a while to carry out all the steps but it went perfectly. Works absolutely beautifully. It's dead quiet and the heat pump function works great too. No idea how long this will last, but total cost was $743 for the minisplit, $40 for the lineset cover, $30 for the wifi/smartphone module, $50 for the compressor wall bracket and $200 for the pro to commission it. Works absolutely perfect -- superb product and just love the thing!!!
I had a little trouble with my lineset cover. Though it appeared to be decent quality, it turned out that parts of it were missing UV protection. After a month, it had yellowed so bad it looked 20 years old. I b****** to the seller and got a refund. Then I painted it to avoid further sun damage.
My pioneer is phenomenal 😍
Thank you!! I am going with the 3.5" hole and a 4" line-set cover.
I figure if I'm going to bore a big hole in the wall, there's not much difference between a 3" and a 3.5" hole. It's still a big hole. Except you are less likely to damage the lines or fall off the ladder with the 3.5". I have some balance issues, so safety is important.
Great tips. Just about to install my Senville 12000. Thanks
Good tips. I was able to install a Senville 9000btu high efficiency in a few days, by myself. Bought a cheapo vacuum pump and borrowed a scaffold to work off. Pretty straight forward as Im a industrial electrician...second winter, and propane use cut in half... electric bill is up about 30-40 bucks a month here in Canada...and it cools very well too on those 3 or 4 hot days here...highly recommend. Of course I waved the warranty but for 1200+tax I could DYI it a couple times, not paying someone 115.00 an hour.
It's $250 an hour around here.
Nice job. Very informative and well spoken. Thanks for the tips.
Glad it was helpful!
0:36 - Get a Plastic Base
1:26 - Use 3 1/2" PVC Pipe for the Line Set
2:14 - Hole Saw Set with 3 1/2" Hole Saw
2:32 - Eccentric Flaring Tool
3:25 - Spring Benders, Not Tubing Bender
3:38 - Vacuum Pump
4:04 - 4" Wide Line Set Cover
5:38 - Use Nylog to Seal Connections
Yeah DITCH that ding sound!! You covered a good deal except the actual charging of the system
The system is already charged.
@@andrewdarbyshire9108 Negative, this is a non DIY install. It isn't already charged...which is why it is cheaper to buy them because they need to be charged.
Rob Flynn II so there’s absolutely no charge in the condenser??
@@robflynnii3196 the system already has refrigerant in it, all you have to do is evacuate the air out of the line and release the refrigerant into the line from the outside unit
@@Sadowskibradley Understood. The title led me to believe this was a non-diy install meaning the system needed to be charged. My apologies to you and Andrew.
So clear, so useful. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
When did Clint Eastwood start doing RUclips videos? 😜 Seriously, thanks for the tips.
I sound like Clint? What a compliment!!!!
the ring sound was too laud
but yes, i did learn something.
I add ; if one is technical to that level , to do flare, I recommend do it with silver solder.
Yes, on these small units you can do silver solder. you do not need brazing , see same on you tube.
Flares are always the weak links.
thanks for info.
greetings from north California.
Silver solder is high temperature brazing operation. And the outdoor unit has valves that are not designed to have copper tubing brazed on. And you have to provide an inert gas purge to prevent copper oxide from forming inside the tubing at the braze locations (typically nitrogen). So this kills any DIY'r. Agree that flares are the weak link, but in the old days before silver solder, flares were the connection means for all systems. But the pressure of R12, and sulfur dioxide were much lower. A bigger problem with these systems, if you have a leak, the compressor will burn out, as refrigerant is used to cool the windings, as this is inside a hermetic can. That is the one flaw of these systems, they don't have a low pressure switch that better quality central air systems have to shut them down with low refrigerant charge.
I saw the video by T&N Services LLC, and thought he was a nut brazing the connections, added much time to the install, and frightened away DIY crowd. And you can't get around the valves on the outdoor unit, where they are exposed to being trampled on.
Thanks for watching!
@@f.hababorbitz the one sold under the MrCool brand and others does have low refrigerant detection and other safety features.
@@greggv8 Good to know. MrCool is intended for DIY installs, it has a very old style of refrigeration connection that I've only seen on WestingHouse HeReLi heat pump systems back in 1976. It was clever back then, but the promise of northern climate heat pump using air to refrigerant still failed as once 32F temp occurs the system changed over to 100% electric heat. I grew up in North Dakota, and the duration that the temp changes from summer to winter is very short so heat pumps just can't get enough heat in that climate (to heat during the long winter, and the cost of the system was high), especially when the highs of the day are -20F (that's in the eastern side of Dakota, as the western side had much more a moderate winter). Viable heat pump systems in those climates need to use the energy in the ground, and that adds a big price to the initial cost, as well a large area needing to be excavated deep enough to extract energy.
Thank you for the excellent instructions.
You are welcome!
Thank you for this information! I was looking into getting a Mr. Cool but now I'm confident I can find a cheaper model and cut down my own copper to not have a useless loop of excess copper.
The Mr Cool Advantage series is an excellent choice if you want to custom cut the lines and vacuum yourself . You can get them from the Home Depot website at a very good price . I also purchased the same vacuum pump he is using in this video from the HD website for about $75 .
If you really don't want the vacuum pump after you install it, I'm sure you could unload a once-used one on eBay immediately (but sell it after you test everything out for a month). I think most types williing to install this way would prefer to keep the tool for auto a/c, etc :)..... Another option I have heard is that some auto parts stores either rent out or let you borrow vacuum pumps (most probably when you buy an air-conditioning part). But, if you are a good customer at your auto shop, they might just let you borrow one for free. :)
Patrick, which unit did you buy/install? It bothers me that MrCool are at least $500 more just to get the warranty.
@@bupright OReillys auto parts loans them with a deposit, guages too.
@@rondail5675 really? Pioneer come with 5 year warranty
One thing to consider, most auto parts places will loan flare tool, vacuum and gauges.
Wrong type of gauges and flare tool.
Winter is coming on. You may not know that these units heat as well as cool! So, installing one can still be a useful fall project. You might even get a discount in the off-season. I didn't have enough cold weather to test the heating capability of mine thoroughly, but they certainly do provide heat. I'm not necessarily trying to bring my garage up (or down) to typical room temperature. I found that just changing the temperature a few degrees can make a huge difference in comfort.
After putting this thing in, I just wonder why I waited so long.
Update 01-01-2020: Again, sorry about the dinging! I've learned a few more RUclips skills since I made this video!
I've been using this unit for 9 months. It is as much of a godsend in the winter as it is in the summer. I spend a lot more time in the garage than I did in past winters! With the outside temperature around freezing, the garage will be up to a very commfortable level (high 60's) in about 15 minutes. The heating ability of this heat pump has surpassed my expectations. Even my normally-freezing wife will spend time in the garage these days!
Now you can't get away from her!!!
Take your time and have the right tools.
Thank you for this video! I thought the refrigerant was in the line and was afraid to cut and flair, I need to remove about 5 feet, and now that you show how to do it and the refrigerant is in the unit, I can rent a vacuum from the local parts store and it may even come w/ the R14 adaptor
You have saved me a ton of money and I get to learn some new skills to go with my ancient VW Aircooled hobby. :)
Glad it helped!
Yep, I cut my line down to fit perfectly. Only needed 6 feet of line
Did you remove any R410
@@georgedeamicis2510 nope
@@growshack9067 how long is your line?
We’re getting ready to hook up a mini split in our enclosed trailer we dirt track race out of. I see there is a roller cone bit on your desk for drilling wells. Have a good weekend
After you put it in, you will wonder how you ever went without it.
I always set mine 2 concrete blocks high. This helps protect from lawnmower debris.
No grass here, but thanks for the comment!
Update 13-04-2022: My unit still works perfectly. I have heard quotes of up to $6800.00 to have a similar unit professionally installed. I wonder if many people know these units do both heating and cooling. FYI, my 18,000 BTU unit is installed in a 650 square-foot garage that is fully insulated (doors, too). However, the triple garage doors with the thinnest insulation face west and take the full blast of the heat we receive in the summer at our southwestern USA location. Of course, the doors are not as tight as a wall. My unit is perfectly adequate for my needs, but when sizing yours, especially in a garage, get the next size up if you are in doubt. I can still get my unit for well under $1000 (Don't wait until until summer to buy), so the cost/benefit ratio to me is outstanding.
I'm needing to replace a now dead 3.5 ton central split unit and the quotes are coming in 8k-13k for a 14 SEER unit. It seems to me that putting in two 24k mini splits would give me a much better SEER rating and HSPF value and if I DIY can be done for under 4k.... Any advice on brands to avoid or to consider? I'm looking at either the MR. Cool, the Pioneer, or the BlueRidge products..... Any opinion? I will be using this to heat as well in a locale that usually doesn't see temps below 25F in winter, average winter temp is about 42F.... Thanks in advance...
Where did you buy your unit?
How tall is your ceiling?
@Harmonic Waves senville all the way... like the video said its the same as Mr cool and pioneer. I have diy 7 units in the past 7 years and they all work perfectly. You will be so much happier with 2 2ton minisplits vs. a central air unit. The ability to control each rooms temp independently is amazing!no more wasting power to cool rooms you don't need!
Ingram's Water and Air...through Amazon.
WOW Excellent video... great ideas... I was really concerned that I had been sold a NON DIY ductless mini split when I THOUGHT all I had to do was make the connections...... :( Seeing this & reading some of the ideas & comments of other viewers has made me less concerned... STILL concerned re: my city building inspector... he may STILL want to have an HVAC tech install... I HOPE NOT... With some practice (as you suggest) getting those flared ends smooth & correct is absolutely essential.... I THINK I'll do it... still evaluating doing everything ELSE except the final connections... Still alot of stuff to consider... THANK YOU for taking the time & share your experience & tips... Goooooooood job ! ! !
Thanks, Rick. Mine is still going strong a year later. The heat function is great too, just a few degrees of heat rise in the winter made the uncomfortable garage a lot better. Wish I'd done this years ago,
Check the current version of your State HVAC code. It may permit people to install a heat pump or aircon in their own residence and may or may not require an inspection of some sort. Around here it costs around $5000 to have a contractor install one. May as well call it the HVAC Guild because of the very long amount of time it takes to go from apprentice to journeyman to contractor. 8 to 10 years and thousands of hours to do work that should be possible to learn in a few weeks to a year, if you're wanting to do everything instead of specializing in the easier aspects.
I paid $3815 for the unit and install of my Daiken mini split. Works great, its an a/c and heat pump.
What size?
Great video as I am trying to decide between DIY and Advantage. Question: Are the Advantage lines flared? So if I don't shorten lines , I can hook up the lines to vacuum pump directly? Thanks again
Yes, the lines were flared, if you have room you can mount the outside unit far enough away so that you don't have to cut any lines, but also don't have to wind them up behnind the unit. You will need a vacuum pump, though.
I was thinking about a concrete pad and you sold me on plastic platform. I receive my Mr Cool 18000 btu tomorrow and I’ve just ordered the platform.
Thanks
It is a lot less work, probably cheaper (particularly with the recent rise in cost of building materials), and will likely outlast you. I only paid $28 for my pad, but prices on everything have gone UP.
@@bupright Where can I find the plastic base. I look on EBAY but nothing
Mine came from Amazon...it was $28. I think it was 38" X 18".
Thanks for that information! Do you have a video about the full install?
Nice video! The condenser isn't that heavy and I assume the plastic pad isn't that heavy either. Wouldn't having the unit on the plastic base result in a light inadvertent bump moving the unit and putting strain on the refrigerant lines?
Nice video, good ideas. I am installing a Senville 18k unit soon...
Installed, I bought a 25’ line set hoping it would reach but alas, I crimped the 1/2” line 3 feet from the end (working around foundation blocks). Just bought a 1/2” flare Union and cut out the bad spot. I used the extra from the original 16” line for the repair. Vacuumed out the lines, let it set for 25 minutes with no loss of vacuum. Static pressure of the Freon was 107 psi. System works great!!!
Great! Good for you!
@@brianb6603 , when you say static pressure of Freon, do you mean you added some R410A before opening the valves, just to pressurize the system? then vacuum again?
Ron Dail in trying to give a brief report I was unclear. My line length came out to 29-30 feet so I was concerned about having too little 410a in the system. The “static” pressure of 107 psi was after letting the Freon into the lines. I just acquired a partial bottle (8 or 9#) so I will add some soon to get up to the optimal 117-120 lbs in the system. Let me know if I am misunderstanding this process.
Wonderful!
Choose the manuf. that has been around longer that offers parts warranty for longer period of time.
Great tip to put Nylog on the flaring tool.
Thank you. That cheap tool made gorgeous flares.
@@bupright The Nylog helps
Do you adhere to minimum lineset length? I’m hearing 10’ minimum but really need to mount where 5’ would be all that’s needed.
Hey friend I’m trying to install Everwell mini split heat pump non diy and the head unit has 3 wires blue brown yellow with green stripe that is already attached and runs out the rear of unit what are these for? I got the other wires figured out number wise I just stuck on these and the manual is useless
Using those vibration pads would have given you additional clearance for the drain fitting underneath the condenser. In theory, the pads reduce wear on the moving parts in the condenser, even if vibration isn't an issue to the occupants.
Yeh. I did try the pads out, it still needed to be raised another half an inch at least. :(
The problem with non DIY units is that almost all of the companies like Mr Cool, Pioneer, etc require you to have an HVAC company sign off stating they did the actual evacuation of the line sets to activate their warranty policies. I don't blame them for requiring this. I'm sure there are plenty of people who think they can do this process just as good as the pros but in reality they might not. So they do the job incorrectly and possibly cause premature compressor failure from improper line set evacuation. This is why I'm a huge fan of the DIY series from Mr Cool. Sure, they cost a few hundred dollars more but I'm okay with that. Me and my wife installed our two DIY Mr Cool mini split systems in our home with zero issues. The fact that I have a seven year warranty on both units gives me very good piece of mind.
You correctly identified the problem. The warranties on the non-DIY units require a licensed contractor to finish the install even if you’re a retired HVAC guy. No contractor, no warranty. So the price of the unit is not so cheap after all if you must hire someone and pay them an additional $200 because they hold a license. The problem with the DIY systems is the look of the excess coiled up mess of tubing behind the condenser. It is so much cleaner to be able to cut the exact amount needed.
I don't know, they're so inexpensive that $200 for the the guy to come over and commission it seemed totally workable. You get a pro to eyeball your whole installation, which is helpful in and of itself. Works great!
If you can get a guy to finish it for you for $200, that may be money well spent. Around here, it costs $250 just to have someone drive by and look at the front of your house from the street. :)
@@SlightReturn666 good luck finding a hvac guy willing to do it. So many hvac companies won't touch a unit they didn't sell you
@Blam Downright I installed my 3ton 2 zone senville all the way back in 2015 and did all the things you did in this video(except I pressure tested with nitrogen and also used a Micron gauge to pull under 500 microns.) It has worked like a champ ever since. I have installed about 7 units between then and all work flawlessly. Idk how important the warranties are considering they change models often.
I used a product called "nylog blue" for the flare fittings .. dunno how well it helped but none of the units I have installed leak. I also used torque wrench to tighten them to spec but idk if that is justifiable to someone who is only going to install a small single zone unit. I had to install alot of these for my business and home so when I first got the install quote for the unit I bought, I about crapped myself! 😂 I was well over the cost I paid for the unit sonI said I'll figure it out myself
Great video. Keep them coming.
Thank you.
Using 5/8" radiator hose for drain hose with a union and hose clamps. It has a smoothi inner core which lets water run without freezing as quickly and the thicker rubber is more durable while providing a modicum of insulation. You should also add more insulation around your insulated line set and drain hose in areas that freeze as per the installation manuals on these units. Thus most line set hides will not fit. The couple that stood a chance would have been tight and impossible for two linesets and drain hoses as well as unavailable and very expensive. 6" plastic guttering offers an alternative, PVC fittings and els with adaptation can help. You are going to have to get creative. The colder the climate the more creative you have to be. I used marine canvas and snaps to sew up my own. Also be aware that all units will benefit from the compressor being in a shelter and it will extend the life of the unit greatly. These units are not rust proof nor are any electronic boards totally waterproof.
Great Job!!
The nitrogen isn’t there for corrosion protection, it’s to keep the lines dry as not to contaminate the system from moisture.
It’s main job though is for leak checking.
It did that well. It was very satisfying to hear the HISS.
@@andrewdarbyshire9108 no, it's just to keep oxygen out until the day of install. You would have to re-charge nitrogen after install to leak check.
Hearing that hisss... Is the sound of NO LEAKS
Correct.
Great video! What screws did you use to bolt down the unit into the plastic pad?
Just some out of the junk box, very large hex head self-tapping screws.
Thanks for the video. Where is the best place to purchase a Non-DIY mini split? Service is most important to me if I need advice or help with parts, etc. Thanks again. Dave
I got mine from Amazon, see link under the video.
If you live in a cold climate and use it for heat do not use the plastic base. The defrost cycle will cause ice to build up under the unit plugging the drain.
You recommend to use 3.5 inch PVC pipe to run all tubing through the wall. It would be not compatible with outside cover provided by manufacturer. How do you manage this problem? What do you use for cover?
I bought a 4" line set. It covers the PVC pipe nicely. It has a bigger cover. Someone commented that they used vinyl 4" downspout material. I didn't think of this; if I had I might have tried it.
I just last week installed a Pioneer and the 2.5" sleeve was fine. Wrapping the tubes tightly with the white tape supplied makes it dead easy.
@@SlightReturn666 I think different line lengths come in different diameters too.
Good tips, it's not that difficult to do for sure
The 2.5 hole and sleeve is plenty no advantage to the pvc
Need a micron gauge btw to verify the flares are right among other things
My first installation, and I wanted it to be as good as I could make it. I fitted the supplied 2.5 sleeve over the lines, drain, and control cable while the unit was on the bench. That sleeve (you may get something different - accessories may vary) was made out of what looked like plastic soda straw material. It severely distorted itself around the well-padded pipes, and would not have been round as it entered the wall. The PVC was a whole lot neater and more professional-looking, which was important to me (even if you could not see it once it was covered). Thanks for the comment!
@@bupright Installing the sleeve in the wall first avoids the problem of trying to push a distorted sleeve through a round hole, and keeps the entire bundle from contacting any sharp edges in the penetration hole. I screw and caulk the sleeve collar to the exterior siding; trim inside end flush. (Or I suppose you could put the collar on the inside if the interior penetration will be visible and the exterior will be covered by watertight line set cover.) Diversitech 230-WS2 2.5" sleeve is not quite Schedule 40 thickness but rigid enough that I don't think could distort, even if placed over bundle before going in the wall. The bundle is very tight in the sleeve. Instructions unfortunately say "wrap with insulation tape," moreover, which adds bulk and is unnecessary as drain & refrigerant pipes are already insulated. Fail. Instead, wrap the entire bundle tightly with electrical tape, full coverage, from base to tip. This both reduces bulk by compressing the foam insulation and greatly reduces friction with the sleeve. For typical install with bundle exiting from the back of the wall unit, two people, one holds up the unit, the other guides and pushes the bundle through the sleeve. Once mounted, one last tug on the bundle from the exterior may be needed to make the interior wall unit lie flat. Obviously, then remove electrical tape back to the point it exits the sleeve.
Yeh, the sleeve they gave me was nowhere near the quality of PVC. It was made of soda straw material. I think the PVC cost me about $6.
agreed
If I wanted to install the inside unit on an interior wall would I be able to bend the tubing and wires straight down out the back of the unit to fit into the 3.5” space between two interior walls. Then I’d just run them into my basement before running the tubing out through the basement wall.
If you are talking about new constuction with no wallboard or insulation present, I THINK you would be able to do this.
I can't find a video anywhere that will show me how to hook my line set which is a sinville to my inside air handler
When you shorten the lines, won't there be too much precharged refrigerant inside the outside unit?
I checked with the company, and this is what they told me: they said it was fine to do it, but not to shorten them to less than ten feet. My lines were about 15' long, so this probably was not considered overdoing it. If you go any shorter than 10 feet, you might have to take out some refrigerant.
@@bupright I shortened my line to 6-7 feet only. Was 16 ft. Line set. Hvac pro buddy of mine said it didn't need to be purged of any refrigerant in my case. Unit cools perfectly, no error codes. He used all gauges, no leaks at all, vacuum lines for 30 min..
@@bupright in some cases, maybe u do .
Hi,.. Is the line set directional?... That's to say.... R the connectors specific to the indoor /outdoor units? Mine came with no identifying marks to orient correctly.... Thanks.
One line is larger guage than other, so big goes to big.
Great tips!! Why did you pick the MrCool over a Pioneer or Senville?
So you do not have a warranty because you did the install?
DIY warranty
MrCool has a 5 year warranty on their DIY models that don't need a vacuum pump to install. I just wish they offered more lengths of line sets. I installed an 18K one with 25 foot lines so I could reduce the amount of wire and conduit that had to be run. There was only one place the air handler could go in the small house but the breaker box was on the opposite corner. So I had to run 40 feet of conduit and wire to meet up with the condenser. I bolted the condenser to a concrete pad because I wanted to ensure nothing could move it and bags of Sakrete are cheap here.
@@greggv8 My first unit was a 18k MrCool, but not the DIY unit. I studied up, and borrowed some tools. Not too hard. My second unit was a Pioneer 12K that I was able to order with a 32ft line-set. They are 90% the same, controllers are interchangeable. I will go with Pioneer in the future because you can go direct to them. I had to get the MrCool thru HomeDepot.
@@rondail5675 lowest cost for MrCool's DIY version is through Costco even after buying a year membership
thankyou for this.
You are welcome!
My unit still in the box I didn’t know I need to have a vacuum pump ?
I have a 3 car garage man cave of 660sq ft with 8 ceiling ft high. Its fully insulated even the garage doors too. I live in Clovis California in zone 9b I think.
I been looking at the DuctlessAire 12000-BTU 230-Volt 22 SEER 600-sq Smart Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater with 25-ft Installation Kit for $1052
My garage is fully insulated even the garage doors. WIll this work even though it says only for 600sq ft? Or should I get the 18000-BTU 230-Volt 21 SEER 900-sq Smart Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater with 25-ft Installation Kit?
This one is for 900sq ft but I was reading that if I get an overzsize minisplit it won't work that good?? This one is $1500.
Thank u
Hope it's not too late for you, but I would get the bigger one.
is there a down side to a pre charged unit?
I was under the impression from some other videos installing the DIY units that the lines couldn't be shortened due to the freon in the line being part of the volume of freon needed to operate the system properly. Don't know if true or not.
Did your instructions or other info give any minimum line size/length or size (lb)of freon charge needed?
Also can any inside units be mounted on their end instead of horizontal?
The unit I installed has no refrigerant in the lines. All the refrigerant is in the compressor unit until you let it out. The factory told me it was OK to shorten the lines, but not to shorten to less than 10 feet.
I think it depends on the unit you are getting. I believe Mr Cool is the only one considered DIY because the lines are charged. With that one you don't vacuum the line. All the others you do need to vacuum the line. On those you can shorten the line.
Excellent
Great video, what did you use to charge the lines with refrigerant? Or does it come pre charged?
The outdoor unit comes precharged with R410a. You do need to pressurize the lines to test for leaks. That typically requires a can of R410a and a hose connection to the suction line of the outdoor unit brass valve (via a gauge manifold service tool). After you determine no leaks, then a vacuum pump is connected to this line, evacuated, the valve to the vacuum pump is closed on the manifold. Then the valves on the outdoor unit are opened to fill the lineset and indoor unit with refrigerant. Once you full back seat the valves on the outdoor unit, you can remove the gauge manifold, then replace the caps to these valves. They use hex allen wrench keys for these valves. As there is a rotating shaft seal, the caps provide leak protection, and must be snugged tight to make the seal.
@@f.hababorbitz how much does a can of R410a cost? Where do you buy it?
@@rondail5675 I got mine on eBay, 25lbs. I think I paid $125, and I see you can get it for $90+$15shipping. Search for "R410a 25".
I see this disclaimer "Must be certified to purchase or you are agreeing to have a licensed person use or you will sell to a certified installer. Thank you "
So just agree that you will have a licensed installer doing the work.
@@f.hababorbitz do you know if it’s possible to use the precharged lines from mr cool on other models and avoid having to pressurize the line sets? And is that the only real difference between the DIY models and all the others? I really like the look of the GE Art series (the wall units). Would they be compatible with the precharged line sets?
Good video! Do the spring benders go on the outside of the pipe? I mean, do they only work if you are going to cut the pipe first? Or can they be used inside the pipe?
They go on the outside...
@@bupright Yep. Only useful if you are in fact cutting the pipe, and really not too useful then, unless you strip all the insulation off to get to the parts you want to bend. Hey: Thanks for your video - I got two units successfuly installed yesterday. I used vinyl downspout gutter, large size (3" x 4") to hide the lines, and the downspout was big enough that I could add cheap foam pipe insulation to each lineset.
@@markchamberlin3741 Great idea about the downspout gutter. It is also much cheaper. I will look into that
Downspout gutter is a good idea. Wish I'd thought of it.
I also can't put the drain elbow on the outdoor unit, it's too big to fit under between the unit, rubber feet, and the plastic base. I'm afraid water will rust out the bottom. I'm trying to tilt it a bit towards the side of the drain hole so water will exit, but concerned it will affect the efficiency of the condenser, as most say it needs to be perfectly level.
I'm glad someone else noticed this! :) Thinking about it a little, I have noticed that in Europe, where there are millions of these units, they are virtually always mounted on a rack attached to the wall. In that case, clearance is not an issue.
The drain fitting is for wall mount, not pad mount. Thats why it wont fit with pad mount.
What bolts did you use to attach the unit to the plastic base?
Some extremely large self-threading hex washer head screws I found in the junk bin.
What’s up with the oil field drill bit on the branch in the background.
A souvenir from my oil-field days. It's been nickel-plated. Ain't it purty?
great instructional fact filled tip filled video! Thanks.
You're welcome!
i am looking at getting 9000btu Senville mini-split in Alberta Canada.
At around the 2 minute mark, the guy says 3.5 inch pvc has an outside diameter of 3.5 inches. I think he meant to say 3 inch pvc has an outside diameter of 3.5 inches.
Great tips! Thank you.
The only negative is that the beeping sfx is so ridiculously louder than all of the rest of your audio; kinda like a local used car commercial that comes on after a bit of quiet dialog from a show that you are watching. You had the volume turned up to hear what they were saying then all of a sudden the walls are rattling with CrAzY eDdIe and his cRaZy DeAls!
Thanks for the tip! Will turn it down next time!
Did you DIY install your system? For us DIY people that don’t have expensive HVAC tools and equipment, is it ok to short cut some of the line set testing. Nitrogen pressure testing is expensive if you have to purchase nitrogen bottle and regulator. R410a systems should be vacuumed to at least 500 micros. Schrader valve removal valves and Micron gauges are very expensive. This tools add a huge expense to the diy install. Did you use pressure testing and micron gauge for your install? Have you experienced issues related to failure to proper test and evacuate your mini split?
It was a complete DIY. Works just like when installed three years ago. I carefully measure the ouput temp ocasionally to make sure nothing is headed south. Yes, I know the installation is not perfect, but I probably saved four or five thousand dollars even with the tools I purchased.
Thanks for your video it helped me work out my install of 2 9000 and 1 18000 BTU units! I must state that the wire inlet on the compressor sucks, the flex conduit mounting plate should be part of the compressor frame and the cover should be removable! Beyond that I'm putting the compressor outside of the two rooms with the 9's and the 18 is being installed on an internal wall, into the attic to the same end of the house. This gives me all three tubing wires and drains going down the outside of the house at the same place, so instead of having 3 ugly channels running down my house I'm installing a wood box cover that is sided to match the house! I will mount a 4 Gang outdoor electrical box on the house and run my control wires though it allowing a place to attach the flex conduit to the compressor. One other issue I ran into was with the indoor units, when you mount it to a wall and the lines are going out through a wall to the left and you switch the unit tubing and drain to that side, the lines will project past the unit, so if you mount it close to the exiting wall you'll fight with the lines when you go to hang the unit! Other then this, have a great day!
Bob, yes you are right about the wire inlet. It is ridiculous! That was the only low point of my installation. You see a similar thing in cars where you wonder what the engineer was thinking (or not thinking).
can I put the outside conpresser in my attached garage?if not what are the reasons
No, because the closed garage is not a big enough sink and will get too hot in cooking mode and too cold in heating mode, severely reducing the efficiency of the unit.
Oh, no, don't do that. The heat output from the compressor unit will offset the cooling from the evaporator unit and it will not work.
do you recommend the plastic bases for 48k btu condensers?
As long as the base fits properly, should not be a problem. I put a layer of rocks under mine for support.
I used 2" PVC for my first install. And I ran into same issue as I'm going to install two mini splits, through a common 3" PVC hole. In my case, these are on inside walls, so the condensate line has to be connected to the sanitary sewer system. I have the wall opened up, so I can run the copper as needed. All good suggestions to help DIY'rs.
Fred, I was thinking about the same idea to run the condensate lines separately through the sewer or to the toilet tank. Could you please share some details on how/where you connect that. Thanks!
@@ZocoLat As the wall is opened up, and this wall has a vent that goes to the roof, I can cut that pipe, put a sanitary Tee in. Sanitary Tee just means there is a slight downward curve to that side inlet (you don't need that long radii connection, as that is used for horizontal connections). My vent is a 3" PVC pipe, that vents a toilet right below. I purchased a Tee that had a side inlet hole of 1-1/2". To this I will reduce it to 3/4" (my supply store had this and the condensate trap) and extend it to where the mini split condensate line is. There must be a trap to prevent sewer gases from entering the home, so on the end of the 3/4" I purchased a condensate line P trap for just this purpose. It is 3/4" as well, and the flex hose from the indoor unit condensate pipe fits very tight into this. I do have to drill 1 wall stud to do this extension. Plumping code requires 1/4" per foot slope downward so it drains properly, and that is easy to measure where the hole has to be in the stud to make this extended pipe in the correct place.
Note pipe is measured by nominal ID, so to run the 3" hole, the schedule 40 DWV (Drain Waste Vent) PVC pipe has nominal 1/4" wall thickness, so a 3.5 inch hole saw is used. I just drilled this yesterday, and this hole is too tight for an easy slip fit, so I now need to get a wood rasp to shave the hole a slight bit bigger.
I don't think you want to dump your condensate into the toilet tank. Hide all this in the wall where the vent is. You probably have to patch drywall. Look up at your roof to see where the vents are. If it's not at your bathroom location then they connected it elsewhere in the attic space, but there must be a vent for the toilet very close by (memory is within 3-6 feet from the downward water closet fitting). I hope this helps.
Where can we get MIDEA non-DIY model at the price you mensioned? The price in their site is very high.
Mine came from Ingram's Water and Air through Amazon. Prices vary all the time (lately they have been varying up), one must shop around.
I considered getting the non DIY but I noticed that the warranties were very different. I don't know if they are the same.. maybe? maybe they just give a longer warranty with DIY because you pay more. Good advice all around there.. thank you. I'll have to buy those tools you have next time i get one and see about saving me some money.
No, see my comment at the top of the video. The non-DIY and the DIY are virtually identical. You are paying twice as much to get the warranty. You should only go this way if you are handy and can handle most jobs yourself. You are taking a chance. I thought the risk was worth it because you can buy almost two non-DIY units for the cost of one DIY.
@@bupright its a good deal but I don't know how to use the vaccum pump or know what I'm doing.. I guess I could get the tools you have and watch some more videos. next time I buy one, I'll do that.
I noticed the Mr. Cool DIY unit has better valving and the line connection is better. I also noticed the compressor's on the cheaper non DIY units are more loud. So that tells me there is an improvement in parts within the compressor and with the line connections with the more expensive DIY units. Also, the Mr. Cool is boxed much better than the others and so normally is not damaged as frequent. And last, when non AC techs start doing vacuum and cutting lines and pressure they get dirt and other stuff you do not want in an AC that, over time, will kill the compressor. So with the DIY Mr. Cool, you never contaminate your lines and then your compressor is good for years to come. By the way, iv'e heard of the oil being trapped in the lines that are circled up over time, but I've never seen a unit harmed by those lines being kept like that. So it might be a wives tale.
@@kimojon9665 yes, I've read about the lines being circled causing issues, which I wouldn't know about. I hope it's not an issue because mine are all rolled up as shipped expect for the line I unrolled out for installation. So far I'm loving these machines because they are very quiet. only thing is. when I switch on the unit from the phone app, I can't figure out how to dim the LEDs.. i have to use to remote for that. we have a unit in a bedroom so those LEDs are bright.
It appears the Advantage (non-DIY) series is less efficient, and cheaper. I assume it uses older or cheaper parts. The Olympus (non-DIY) series seems to be the same unit as the DIY, and maintains the same warranties and efficiency.
Great tips! Definitely good out of the box thinking. Which model Mr Cool did you end up going with? How do you like it?
I went with the 18,000 BTU non DIY model (A-18-HP-C-230B). It's in my three-car garage (about 700 square feet). It is amazing. On a day when the intake temperature was 76, the temperature right where the refrigerant comes into the inside unit shows 34-38 degrees! A 40-degree drop! It seems to be very smart...when it gets the temperature down to the setting, it goes into a mode where it works just hard enough to maintain the temp. For example, it will blow 34-degree air when it first starts, but after a while it will blow 58-degree air, and adjusts itself to meet the demand...instead of blasting cold air, then totally shutting off, then repeating. Different from the way a regular A/C works. Also, it is extremely quiet in all modes. I can't believe I didn't put one in years ago.
Which refrigerant did you use
It comes with refrigerant inside...you don't need to add any.
FYI......
The Mr Cool unit says to drill a 3 1/2" hole (not 2 1/2")
I don't remember seeing that, but they supplied a 2.5" sleeve with mine. There is more fighting on here about the sleeve than just about anything else. Some guys say they got a 3" sleeve, some say they got a 3 1/2" sleeve...on and on. I got a crappy 2 1/2" sleeve (made out of soda straw material), and the $6 I spent on the PVC pipe was well worth it.
I did not get a wall template; I don't know if they make one, but I spent more time measuring and calculating and making my own template than I did installing it.
The instructions state 3 1/2" hole for the 24k unit and 2 1/2" hole for the 12k and 18k. I'm about to install a 18k and he's correct about the 2 1/2" plastic tube they supplied not being big enough for the two lines and tube to all fit.
I can't seem to find linset covers... Anyone have any ideas? Didn't find any at Lowe's and home depot.
Online only
Perhaps check an HVAC shop? While they won't sell you an HVAC unit because you are not an installer, Perhaps they will sell you other parts.
@@petersachs764 yeah they refused to sell me a ac transformer that they had in stock. So I had to order it online and deal with no AC for 4days in the heat until it arrived. Bunch of BS, on the bright side, it was cheaper online.
I can't tell you how many times I ended up at wholesale parts houses getting the stink-eye from someone who decided I was not "professional" enough to buy some part. Even moron parts like a stovetop coil. I never got turned down, but the internet mostly fixed that problem quite some time ago.
Order from manufacturer website.
Stupid Ding noise what's it for?
To keep your attention knowing you'll be falling asleep half way through video
I got the message. No more dings.
@@bupright Thanks for no more dings, good video though. Got an Advantage on the way!
01:56 That's actually 3" PVC pipe not 3.5". PVC pipe is measured by the inside diameter, not the outside. But don't take my word for it ... Go to Home Depot and see if they have a 3 1/2" pipe section.
Great video, also wondering how you like the mini split ? Thanks !
It works great...temperature on the right side of the inside unit (where the refrigerant comes in) is 34-36 degrees with a 76 degree input. Not bad. It is extremely quiet. Now I want one in the bedroom.
i just got a kmb 18k and it is identical to the mr cool. 699 shipped no tax
Link?
Good for you! As far as I can tell, they are all exactly the same.
whats the story behind the drill bit?
That's a bit used for oil or gas well drilling.
Do you have to fill it with freon ???
The compressor is filled. The evaporator is not. After you vacuum and test the evaporator, you release the refrigerant from the compressor. You don't buy or add refrigerant. It's all in the unit.
They do tell you to drill a 3.5” hole, not 2
Links?
Did you run your own electrical to the unit or did u bring in electrician?
I ran my own. 12 gauge wire. Non-fused disconnect. Inspected by the local authority.
blue ridge is the exact same
Good suggestions but the extreme differance between your voice volume and the tip ding indicator was a terrible editing choice.
They may be cheaper, but by the time you pay for the pump and installer to charge it, it costs more. You can not buy refrigerant without a license
It comes pre-charged.
There is a short follow-up video that corrects a mistake here: ruclips.net/video/aiCOqzivXEU/видео.html
And if you do it right ac would last a lot longer than mr cool..😎