I've got a plastic front zip. I like it a lot but due to bad luck or inexperience a stray thread got caught in it and since it's never closed completely. I'd still get another one though. More practical than metal. Still in the old days, drysuits had a cummerbund to join a top and a bottom piece. #askmark why did we go to zips instead of cummerbund. Just because rubber wasn't flexible enough?
I suspect it was easier and cheaper to make a suit with a zipper compared to a two-part suit. You do still see the roll-seal type drysuit for surface drysuits occasionally. But I think the scuba industry has settled on zippers as tried and tested technology now.
How long does the average drysuit zip last for? I appreciate the answer is variable to the amount of care it receives from its owner and usage. Just wondering if it was something that had a “shelf life” thanks 😊
I have a brass front-entry diagonal zip on my OThree custom. It was a bit tough getting it fully open over my shoulder when new but after 100 dives or so it's not a problem. Once it's closed I don't notice it and I'm happy it's going to last.
It's funny; a couple shops that I talk to say a plastic zipper lasts longer. Nothing to do with the bras, but rather the material in the middle of the brass zipper that starts to wear off. I had a brass front entry zipper, and it didn't last 180 dives / 1.8 years. I had it replaced with a plastic one. I can't comment on the plastic one since it has been less than 60 dives / 5 months since it was replaced.
It mainly consists of using a lighter to melt down the little hairs before they can unthread. just a quick wave of the flame so you don't melt the plastic seal
Thanks. That's what I'd been doing, like stopping the ends fraying on cave line when you cut it. Just thought there may have been a better way than I'd decided to trial. 😊
#askmark Hi mark, i have a multipart question regarding the long hose setup i'm considering. I have a set of atomic regulators, an M1 for my primary and a Z2 octo, configured in traditional setup. Questions are: 1. When i switch to a longhose, do i NEED to put in on the Z2 octo (It's not a fully yellow octo, but it does have yellow tints on it - it also stays in a black hose). They're both similar in terms of breathing, but i'd rather have my m1 primary on it. 2. should i go for traditional rubber hoses or braided? I also considered an miflex xt-tech hose for the long hose? I'm mostly concerned about floatines and "scratchy" feeling with the braided ones. Thank you, Keep up the good work
The important thing to remember is that they're *your* regulators and you can have whatever configuration that works for you. 1. No, it doesn't matter which 2nd stage is where. On my LHPD setup both 2nd stages are the same. But in your case I would have the M1 primary on the long hose that I breathe from and the Z2 around my neck. That way it would be less likely to freeflow and you only need to breathe from it if you're donating. 2. Rubber hoses tend to be best for long hoses. If weight is an issue then XT-Tech is a good choice. Regular Miflex hoses are more buoyant and scratchy against bare skin. But as long as you hold them in place on your waist they're manageable. Rubber hoses are always a safe bet and XT-Tech are a good alternative.
Hi Mark, I am looking into buying my first drysuit this year, so the explanation is much appreciated! On a different note: I am considering trying sidemount diving. The idea of buying a whole set of new gear first though is not really appealing. Is it possible and advisable to set up a regular (backmount) backplate and wing for side mount diving, to try out this style of diving? #askmark
I'd advise against it for now. While you could set up your current gear in a sidemount configuration, it's best if you use the right gear under instruction. If you sign up for a course then you can use school equipment and your Instructor can help show you how it should be adjusted for you and when you do make the move to sidemount, you know what you're doing and what equipment you may need.
Thanks for the answer! If you'd find the time to explain in detail what the drawbacks of a backmount wing in this setup would be, that would be awesome. @@ScubaDiverMagazine
#ASKMARK Hi Mark, love your videos and podcasts which are always very informative. I am travelling to Koh Tao in the summer and looking at buying a travel wing by the British company AP Valves. I have not heard them mentioned by you before. Would you recommend this wing?
AP Valves has been a staple British brand for decades and we used an AP BC during my commercial course. I don't mention them very much because they don't change designs as often as other brands; they make a design and stick with it. The AP Travelwing is a fine BCD, it's tough where it needs to be and light where it needs to be. I'd be happy diving with one.
#AskMark Hi Mark! I wanna start diving doubles this summer and was looking to buy a wing for that purpose. I already have a backplate and just wanted to buy a bigger wing, so that I could just replace the old one and wouldn't have to buy a whole new set up. I stumbled across many different types and was wondering if there was a certain wing or at least brand you would recommend! thanks
I really like the Apeks D40T and the XDEEP NX Project Wings. I look for a two-part wing so you have a separate protective shell and a power inflator which is easy to repair. Most brands who build twin wings are trustworthy but, Apeks and XDEEP are at the top of my personal list.
#ASKMARK. Hi Mark, if price was not so super high, would you use the Atomic bc2? I’m currently looking at new BCD and considering ‘AL Dimension’, and Apex Exotec’. However the ‘Xdeep Zen Deluxe’ and the ‘Atomic bcc’ are also scratching the back of my mind. Just a full face mask diver that dives in the Netherlands and of course on holidays in Egypte, Philippines, Taiwan, etc…. Thx in advance, wishing you an amazing day.
The BC2 is a beautiful BCD which is made from the best materials. That does make it quite heavy. You can still travel with it, just pack fewer clothes. Personally, I prefer the adaptability of a backplate like a Zen but, I would be very happy owning a BCD like the BC2
#ASKMARK Hi Mark, I love the videos and get a lot from the content. I’m trying to make the smallest lightest travel set up that I can because I’d like to fit everything in a carry on, with that in mind my first stage only has 2 hoses coming off of it (along with a transmitter) the first hose goes to my primary second stage which I’m switching to a MiFlex hose (after learning about it in one of your videos) the second hose goes to my Scubapro Air2 I would like to switch that hose to a MiFlex hose as well but im getting conflicting/confusing advice about weather or not I can switch the second hose to MiFlex because of the connection at the Air2 . My #ASKMARK question simply boils down to this, can I use a MiFlex hose if it will be connecting to a Air2? Would/could anything special need to be done in order for the answer to be yes? If so what exactly needs to be done? Thanks In advance for any and all info / answers
Yes! One of the great things about all Scubapro inflator hoses is that they're all regulator hoses with a QD fitting on the end. If you remove the chunky Air2 QD fitting from the end of the hose you should be able to fit it to a regulator Miflex hose. At one end of the Scubapro hose you should see a nut with lots of teeth near a regular nut on the QD fitting. There is a dedicated tool to undo it but, if you use a cloth to prevent scratching the chrome you should be able to undo it with a good pair of pliers.
Mark, Thanks so much for the quick thorough reply! So if I understand correctly the only thing that needs to be done in order to use a MiFlex hose with a Scubapro Air2 inflator/regulator is to move the chunky Air2 QD fitting from the original hose to the MiFlex hose?
Yes, unless Scubapro have changed the design or you have an unusual QD hose. If you look at the chunky QD fitting there should be a regular 6-sided nut at the base and a crenelated nut next to it. Rotate that crenelated nut to remove the QD fitting and it has the same size thread as a standard regulator and should screw onto any 9/16" regulator hose like a Miflex.
Hey Mark. Useful content as usual only sound seems to be broken. Your voice can only be heard in left channel.
Came to the comments to check I wasn't the only one. Noting that the background music was stereo.
Also 5:41 - "If the Lieutenant Colonel finds himself unable to perform his duties"
Yeah, only noticed this afterwards. I was paying with my audio gear and forgot to switch it back...
I'm happy with my Santi plastic zipper. It's been very reliable for years now with little maintenance. Definitely a fan of front opening.
I've got a plastic front zip. I like it a lot but due to bad luck or inexperience a stray thread got caught in it and since it's never closed completely.
I'd still get another one though. More practical than metal.
Still in the old days, drysuits had a cummerbund to join a top and a bottom piece.
#askmark why did we go to zips instead of cummerbund. Just because rubber wasn't flexible enough?
I suspect it was easier and cheaper to make a suit with a zipper compared to a two-part suit. You do still see the roll-seal type drysuit for surface drysuits occasionally. But I think the scuba industry has settled on zippers as tried and tested technology now.
How long does the average drysuit zip last for? I appreciate the answer is variable to the amount of care it receives from its owner and usage. Just wondering if it was something that had a “shelf life” thanks 😊
I have a brass front-entry diagonal zip on my OThree custom. It was a bit tough getting it fully open over my shoulder when new but after 100 dives or so it's not a problem. Once it's closed I don't notice it and I'm happy it's going to last.
Yeah, my memory of when plastic zips came out was how easy they were to pull. But if you look after your brass zipper they're not very hard to move.
It's funny; a couple shops that I talk to say a plastic zipper lasts longer. Nothing to do with the bras, but rather the material in the middle of the brass zipper that starts to wear off. I had a brass front entry zipper, and it didn't last 180 dives / 1.8 years. I had it replaced with a plastic one. I can't comment on the plastic one since it has been less than 60 dives / 5 months since it was replaced.
They can fray over time and need cleaning up. Maybe I've just been lucky with mine over the years
@@ScubaDiverMagazine #AskMark Can you do a video on how to do the "clean up" you've just referred to for a Brass Zip?
It mainly consists of using a lighter to melt down the little hairs before they can unthread. just a quick wave of the flame so you don't melt the plastic seal
Thanks. That's what I'd been doing, like stopping the ends fraying on cave line when you cut it. Just thought there may have been a better way than I'd decided to trial. 😊
#askmark Hi mark, i have a multipart question regarding the long hose setup i'm considering. I have a set of atomic regulators, an M1 for my primary and a Z2 octo, configured in traditional setup. Questions are:
1. When i switch to a longhose, do i NEED to put in on the Z2 octo (It's not a fully yellow octo, but it does have yellow tints on it - it also stays in a black hose). They're both similar in terms of breathing, but i'd rather have my m1 primary on it.
2. should i go for traditional rubber hoses or braided? I also considered an miflex xt-tech hose for the long hose? I'm mostly concerned about floatines and "scratchy" feeling with the braided ones.
Thank you, Keep up the good work
The important thing to remember is that they're *your* regulators and you can have whatever configuration that works for you.
1. No, it doesn't matter which 2nd stage is where. On my LHPD setup both 2nd stages are the same. But in your case I would have the M1 primary on the long hose that I breathe from and the Z2 around my neck.
That way it would be less likely to freeflow and you only need to breathe from it if you're donating.
2. Rubber hoses tend to be best for long hoses. If weight is an issue then XT-Tech is a good choice. Regular Miflex hoses are more buoyant and scratchy against bare skin. But as long as you hold them in place on your waist they're manageable.
Rubber hoses are always a safe bet and XT-Tech are a good alternative.
Hi Mark, I am looking into buying my first drysuit this year, so the explanation is much appreciated!
On a different note: I am considering trying sidemount diving. The idea of buying a whole set of new gear first though is not really appealing. Is it possible and advisable to set up a regular (backmount) backplate and wing for side mount diving, to try out this style of diving? #askmark
I'd advise against it for now. While you could set up your current gear in a sidemount configuration, it's best if you use the right gear under instruction.
If you sign up for a course then you can use school equipment and your Instructor can help show you how it should be adjusted for you and when you do make the move to sidemount, you know what you're doing and what equipment you may need.
Thanks for the answer! If you'd find the time to explain in detail what the drawbacks of a backmount wing in this setup would be, that would be awesome. @@ScubaDiverMagazine
#ASKMARK
Hi Mark, love your videos and podcasts which are always very informative.
I am travelling to Koh Tao in the summer and looking at buying a travel wing by the British company AP Valves. I have not heard them mentioned by you before. Would you recommend this wing?
AP Valves has been a staple British brand for decades and we used an AP BC during my commercial course. I don't mention them very much because they don't change designs as often as other brands; they make a design and stick with it.
The AP Travelwing is a fine BCD, it's tough where it needs to be and light where it needs to be. I'd be happy diving with one.
#AskMark Hi Mark! I wanna start diving doubles this summer and was looking to buy a wing for that purpose. I already have a backplate and just wanted to buy a bigger wing, so that I could just replace the old one and wouldn't have to buy a whole new set up. I stumbled across many different types and was wondering if there was a certain wing or at least brand you would recommend! thanks
I really like the Apeks D40T and the XDEEP NX Project Wings.
I look for a two-part wing so you have a separate protective shell and a power inflator which is easy to repair.
Most brands who build twin wings are trustworthy but, Apeks and XDEEP are at the top of my personal list.
#ASKMARK. Hi Mark, if price was not so super high, would you use the Atomic bc2? I’m currently looking at new BCD and considering ‘AL Dimension’, and Apex Exotec’. However the ‘Xdeep Zen Deluxe’ and the ‘Atomic bcc’ are also scratching the back of my mind. Just a full face mask diver that dives in the Netherlands and of course on holidays in Egypte, Philippines, Taiwan, etc…. Thx in advance, wishing you an amazing day.
The BC2 is a beautiful BCD which is made from the best materials. That does make it quite heavy. You can still travel with it, just pack fewer clothes.
Personally, I prefer the adaptability of a backplate like a Zen but, I would be very happy owning a BCD like the BC2
#ASKMARK
Hi Mark,
I love the videos and get a lot from the content. I’m trying to make the smallest lightest travel set up that I can because I’d like to fit everything in a carry on, with that in mind my first stage only has 2 hoses coming off of it (along with a transmitter) the first hose goes to my primary second stage which I’m switching to a MiFlex hose (after learning about it in one of your videos) the second hose goes to my Scubapro Air2 I would like to switch that hose to a MiFlex hose as well but im getting conflicting/confusing advice about weather or not I can switch the second hose to MiFlex because of the connection at the Air2 .
My #ASKMARK question simply boils down to this, can I use a MiFlex hose if it will be connecting to a Air2? Would/could anything special need to be done in order for the answer to be yes? If so what exactly needs to be done?
Thanks In advance for any and all info / answers
Yes! One of the great things about all Scubapro inflator hoses is that they're all regulator hoses with a QD fitting on the end. If you remove the chunky Air2 QD fitting from the end of the hose you should be able to fit it to a regulator Miflex hose.
At one end of the Scubapro hose you should see a nut with lots of teeth near a regular nut on the QD fitting. There is a dedicated tool to undo it but, if you use a cloth to prevent scratching the chrome you should be able to undo it with a good pair of pliers.
Mark,
Thanks so much for the quick thorough reply! So if I understand correctly the only thing that needs to be done in order to use a MiFlex hose with a Scubapro Air2 inflator/regulator is to move the chunky Air2 QD fitting from the original hose to the MiFlex hose?
Yes, unless Scubapro have changed the design or you have an unusual QD hose. If you look at the chunky QD fitting there should be a regular 6-sided nut at the base and a crenelated nut next to it. Rotate that crenelated nut to remove the QD fitting and it has the same size thread as a standard regulator and should screw onto any 9/16" regulator hose like a Miflex.
THANK YOU!!
Cant watch this.. your voice is only on the left channel. its super distracting lol