Fluance RT82: amzn.to/45wfzEf 1ByOne: amzn.to/48Quqwn Audio Technica AT-LPW30TK: amzn.to/46Gx0mK Monoprice Monolith: amzn.to/46v3hxq Sound Dampening Tweak: amzn.to/3M3idKR Any links to products or services may be affiliate links that give me a small kickback at no cost to you, with no influence on the content. As an Amazon Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
@winksplayle I have a Technics SL-QD2 that still sounds very good. Today I got the Fluance RT-85 with the 2m blue cartridge. The detail and clarity is excellent but did it blow me away compared to the Technics? Honestly, no.
This whole video points to and expresses how the “point of diminishing returns” is a constant factor in the hobby. First, what is expensive is subjective. 500 is a lot of money for some and an insignificant number for another. A high end tonearm manufacturer isn’t going to give you all their goods on an entry level table. Why would they? Whatever the case, this hobby is a journey. We all decide where to stop and step off the train. Others keep on traveling. There’s something for everybody. There is no wrong or right. My experiences and interpretations under the same circumstances, can be viewed differently by another. The point is to enjoy, however that is defined by each of us.
Quite agree with you, but don't forget the contradictions! "I prefer a €500 stylus before an 50 one". Clever, isn't it. And then he mounted that 500 in a €50 headshell. Pure logic! End of the sarcasm.
I'm old, I have old turntables. Get the jvc out, clean the pots and switches. It's not hard and it probably has better specs. Easier to research 1 and fix it than research 10 fantastic plastics
At the $500 new price point I tend to recommend turntables like the Pro-ject Debut Carbon, or Rega P1 for the exact reasons you mentioned in this video, those turntables to my knowledge are handmade in the same factories in Europe, and use many of the same components as all their high end turntables, where many of the $500 turntables are made in the same places with the same parts as $200-$300 turntables, not to say those turntables are bad, and wont perform well enough, but at the $500 price point id rather feel like I'm getting the "worst of the best" rather than the "best of the worst" so to speak.
@@HiFiTurtlerega is compl overpriced, and you need to do a lot of vibration pampning if you have sub or big speakers. I had a rp3 but tryed a Project debut carbon, buyed the same day, now i have a oracle Alexandria and im never changing tt again🤙
@@HiFiTurtle The same here. Official Rega dealer said to me that it is a better idea to buy a vintage japanese direct-drive turntable than any new Rega turntable under P3 model.
He probably recommended this turntable because they really had too many open boxes at the shop taking space and was told by his manager to push these into people like you. He also got a little kickback for getting it out of the shop.
I'm surprised vintage turntables with servo-damped tonearms aren't more popular. techmoan has one (a denon dp-47f) but doesn't seem to be aware of the feature. these servo systems are a superior, electronic equivalent to the "fluid damper" sl-1200 attachments. tonearm damping reduces the lf cartridge resonance and consequently its interaction with warps and other subsonic garbage. precisely because of brand recognition, I think secondhand sl-1200mk2s are a worse value than a lot of their more interesting contemporaries, unless you intend to scratch with them.
Denon 1200, static tonearm, more reliable, not alot of things to fix. Jvc ql7, Technics 1200mk2 even a despised sl2000 has great specs compared to new under 1000.
The answer is rather simple: these are just ticking bombs. Too old and too complex late 1970 electronics that is very hard to diagnose and repair when failure occurs.
The comments on this are great and I wish there was more of it. No price level barred from examination and comparison. You may know there is one YT who focuses on what you all would agree as below entry level lauding suitcase players and such as good for beginners etc., get them into the love of records.
I'm not a big fan of the manual moving of pulley for changing speed. It's fine, it's just something that I don't prefer. I'd be concerned about finger smudging the belt. Technics made the SL-B2 that had electronic speed change and there was only one pulley on the motor and it worked great until the speed pot got dirty. I like the direct drive, quartz lock turntables. I would recommend for you getting a strobe platter vs. using your phone. Although I'm sure it doesn't matter that much, with the strobe mat, it would be perfectly balanced. I have a Teac four discreet track reel to reel tape deck (A3440) from 1979 that sounds beautiful. It still works almost perfectly.
I love your analogy. That's because you are of the old school of thought. We created listening with our pure imagination as opposed to this generation who rely on today's gadgets and technology.
My experience with Monolith turntable was awful... I returned it and almost gave up on turntables.. Then, decided to get a Fluance and it has been trouble free for 4+ years ! No regrets.
The speed fluctuations on your old JVC happened on a late 70s Technics I had. A SL-23 with pitch adjustments dials. This was solved by a generous spray of electric contact cleaner to the ‘innards’ of the pitch control and 33/45 speed adjust switches. I sold said turntable when I needed funds. I now have a Pro-Ject Essential III with an upgrade to the Ortofon OM20 stylus. Very nice sound, hardly any resonance due to the thick mdf platter and mdf plinth with no hollow spaces (platter sits atop the plinth, not in a hollow sunk into the plinth). Awkward belt and anti-skate fitment, yet I prefer it to the vintage Technics which also had an Audio Technica cartridge with microline stylus. I’ve decided to stick with this Pro-Ject turntable and not upgrade. Pro-Ject make their own turntables in Austria or Czech Republic, no outsourcing to China or Taiwan. I believe the also recommendable Rega and U-Turn also have this ‘in house’ manufacturing too?
Back in the 80's you could buy a similar table to your Teac for about $100 - $175, an entry level JVC was around $119.00 - I know cause im 65 and I bought one brand new, a very basic JLA-20 that served me well. My main table now is a vintage belt drive T40 Harmon Kardon I always wanted back then but could not afford @ $349 dollars - found one on ebay a few years ago for $80 needing a little maintenance such as new rubber feet, new rubber isolation washers in the motor mounts, new belt, buffed the scratches out of the dust cover, adjusted the speeds slightly with an online manual and a platter speed disc then topped it off with a new audio technica ATVM95 cartridge and it plays like brand new. If I had to buy a new table (im cheap too) I would most likely try a Fluance RT81+ with its great reviews and escellent value for money.
Had terrible luck with rega and project, both had noisy motors which I put a video review on Amazon, got a PLX1000 and it’s perfect, to me belt drive can be problematic.
Yeah, I've never seen teac recommended online anywhere. My Fluance RT-85 is great. I don't like the 2m blue so I have a AT-vm540ml on it. Sounds fantastic.
People.... Do yourselves a favour: Stop Buying Garbage. In 1974, an entry-level turntable was about $100, which is about $625 today, and that did not include a cartridge (add $20 to $25 then, or $155 today). So... Why do you expect to get $780 worth of equipment for less than $400?
This is a good point. The turntables of this time were made in Germany, Japan, and the USA, no? Have to wonder as well the economics of moving that production to low cost of labor countries having an effect on price. By comparison the EU made Rega P1 and Pro-Ject Debut Carbon hit that today's dollar mark
This is why they tried to destroy the reputation of the Technics SL 1200. by throwing words like "direct drive noise" oh "Its a DJ turntable" (not audiophile) No amount of painted particle boards in the colors of the rainbow will convince me that project and rega are the best entry level ever. they had to complete with a technologically advanced and. built like a tank TT. If you believe this then you 7:42 are a fool. They had to do this because the second hamd market was flooded with SL1200 for 350 to 400 dollars. You could still find some in good condition for that price.
Yup, I think the selling point of the RT85 is the Ortofon 2M Blue cart thats included. I recommend the AT120X and if you want to step up to the 2M later amzn.to/3yUS7GG (affiliate)
I sold hi-fi between 1976 and 1982, before I got into IT. I have four turntables and roughly 3,500 LP's as well as a few hundred 45's. If I were to have to buy a modern new turntable, I would choose between either the Fluance RT85 or the Audio-Technica LP-120XUSB. Like you, I'm cheap. I consider both of those TT's "good enough" regarding the drive system and the tonearm. And I can always improve them via a better cartridge. Honestly, the cartridge is the one advantage the Fluance has over the AT. But the drive system is a HUGE advantage of the AT. I'm a huge fan of DD, obviously. Back in the day I really hated belt drive TT's. These were the days before the internet and getting replacement belts was a bit of a hassle. Now it's easy, but the downside is that most belt drive TT's have the belt on the outside of the platter. My one belt drive (u-Turn "plus" with built in pre) is a pain because my fingers keep knocking the belt off the platter. My old Technics SL23 from the early 70's was belt drive, but the belt and motor was under the platter. Heck, it even had a pitch control. BTW, the biggest "bang for buch" improvement one can make to any turntable is to get a nude stylus. The cool thing about the Ortofon red is that you can get an ortofon blue nude stylus and it will definitely improve the sound. As for me, I'm about bang for the buck, and convenience. That's why two of my turntables (both bought used) have built in pre-amps. My vintage 70's receiver has only two phono inputs but I connect these two to a tape-in and "tuner" inputs. It works because they have built in phono pre. The bluetooth connected to my TV is connected to aux, BTW. BTW, my four turntables are Kenwood KD-500 with ADC LMF 2 carbon tonearm. (Bought new when it first came out) Stull my main TT. It needed a serious de-oxit treatment about 12 years ago when I pulled it out of 15 years of storage. Yamaha PF 50 fully auto (bought 15 years ago for $30 at an estate sale. Works like new). I use this one when I need the auto feature. Audio Technica AT LP120USB, (bought used for $150 about 8 years ago). This is my workhorse for 45's, 78's and "goodwill" finds. It's also a great cleaning platform. Massive torque. The u-Turn, bought for $125 of Facebook Marketplace with a record cleaning system, a bunch of record jackets, cleaning brushes and fluid, and seven or eight new LP's. The guy had just bought it new, tried it, didn't like vinyl, and just dumped it to get rid of it. He hadn't even opened the copy of Hendrix's Are You Experienced. I used The u-Turn as the turntable in my rebuild of a 1960's console stereo. FWIW, I think there is even a place in the world for those Crosley Cruisers, now that I know they don't wear out records much worse than anything else. But anyone that gets one should move on pretty fast. My 12 year old grandaughter really liked hers until the motor burned up. 🤣
Today I got a Fluance RT-85, sale priced at $425. Ortofon 2m blue cartridge. I had been using my 30+ year old Technics SL-QD2 with the original Shure rxp3 cartridge and a new $40 LP Gear stylus. The RT-85 has excellent detail and clarity but did it blow me away compared to the Technics like I was expecting? Honestly, no.
Welcome to the real world. A lot of turntables are a piece of painted (or wrapped)mdf, with an inexpensive motor. My Rega plll has a 79 dollar motor. Its an open box that cost 900 bucks. The tonearm is a work of art, however,and the platter is glass. But there is just a lot more to my Technics, which cost 1799$. My first new Technics , it just shows that the more you pay the more you get
Sincere video thanks I would go with the project company upgraded from a vintage Phillips from the '70s to the project pro 30th anniversary table and it comes with $150 cartridge good luck
Good video. Normally audiophiles wouldn't look to Teac for a turntable. They've been around forever but it's clearly not their forte'. Do your research of course. 3-400 bucks will get you something good. Unfortunately, I've noticed in recent years the Teac build quality has taken a turn. They feel cheap and always break down prematurely. They can do better than this.
Very important video. That's why you should have an investment once - and never look back. Brands like Technics, Thorens, Rega and Linn are always be a good choise for that kinf of invesment.
I'd suggest redoing your dampening material, cut the pieces exactly the same size (weigh them), and place them directly across from each other, the way you showed in the video will throw the balance out of whack.
The increase of speed of your former turntable was probably caused by a sudden surge of electricity therefore it probably wasn't necessary for you to buy a new turntable. What you probably need is a surge protector that you would plug your turntable and some other electronic devices into and then plug the surge protector into the mains.
Surge protectors typically activate at over 200V (In the US where standard is 120V). They protect equipment, they do not regulate voltage. Electronic equipment is built to handle fluctuations in voltage from the mains, and typically you wont see a variation of more than 1V at any given time. I have all my equipment except the power amp plugged into high quality conditioners
A professional record player has the speed sensor on the spinning platter. A commercial record player has the speed sensor inside the motor. A toy record player has no speed sensor. This is irrespective of tone arm used and the brand printed on the case of the player. Resonance of the platter is usually dampened with a thick cover disk made out of hard rubber. A direct-drive turntable (SL1200) is better than a cheap belt driven one. A good belt-driven turntable has at least two speed sensor and one speed indicator, or the usual strobe light.
Entry audiophile? Not by a long shot. Audiophile turntables do not have built in RIAA For several years turntables do not have 78rpm And, audiophile turntables have all the "features" they need. They concentrate on the quality of the materials, exceptional build construction and the stability of the platter the motor or motors and everything else like the arm movement etc. You are not talking of High End audio. You are talking about affordable Hi Fi systems. As an example look for Tentogra Oscar MK 2 turntable or a vintage Thorens reference for example. Those are High End and have nothing to do with Hi FI
Thank you for the info, I fall trough with the same thoughts, right now I’m looking to get any used thorens turntable at the same price point will be always better than this generic with punch of lies
You had to find that out. A lot of us have had to learn that way. Luckily it wasn't THAT expensive of a lesson. If I'm honest and you deserve honesty because I feel you give that to us. .I agree with DustyDO comment below about brands but go higher up the chain. Your ear deserves a $5000 turntable (Rega P8 or better a P10 level) No more sub $1500. I know.. Money. But like it or not, you have a sophisticated ear. I found this out myself. I recently upgraded my ten year old Rega RP6 (A $1500 TT, which has it's own separate Neo Power supply that can change speeds with a button press, not a belt pulley switch). I changed the subplatter, platter mat and tone arm and upgraded from a good MM to a better MC cartridge. I was shocked by the change in the sound. Honestly, it's a whole other experience listening to LPs. My turntable now clearly out performs my digital (ifi zen stream and Denafrips Terminator 12th!) as far as detail and three dimensionality - Instruments and voices seem to float in the air). I think I have to follow my advise to you, but about digital. I need a $5000 streamer/server!
Maybe one day! Luckily digital is much more simple than the analog domain. Theres a lot of great streamers and servers that dont cost an arm and a leg. Or if you want the glitz and glam an arm and a leg is certainly exchangable for them 🤣
Holding the platter up and ringing it like a bell really has no bearing on how it will perform on the table - ive had several tables with aluminum platters and not once have I ever heard platter ring make it into the sound chain - if that worries one, just use a rubber mat like all tables used to use to dampen and harmonics. I have a vintage $350 Harmon Kardon from the 80's and it came with a heavy and beautifully machined 2.3 pound aluminum platter and it will ring the same way - IF you hold it up in the air and strike it, but again never has the table displayed this ringing during play back, and once again it came with a rubber mat that would guarantee to dampen it. Theres a reason all tables used to use rubber mats, they just work and do the job they were designed to do.
Dont let the audiophile companies kid you, they delete semi auto and auto features to cut cost, semi auto if it makes any noise at all its not while playing records its usually at end of record etc -
This Teac is definitely overpriced. As fot the arm, an S shaped arm, offers no advantages over a straight arm, as most of each offer interchangeable headshells. When using a phone app, phone must be placed over the spindle, or platter will be unbalanceddd. When platter is in place, it will not ring, nearly as much. You should not assume that it's junk, due to a Taiwanese maker. You should keep it, as it's decent quality, OR fix your JVC, which is a far better unit. Teac is NOT well known as a turntable brand. Also don't mention ION in this mix, as ION is absolutely crap, comparable to Crosley, and doesn't belong in this discussion. If you want to go belt, the top model Fluance, should be your choice.
Did TEAC downgrade internal quality of models in the last few years? I wish you could look inside mine. Not an entry level. I got TEAC TN 570 3 1/2 years ago just before it was discontinued. Same deck configuration as yours, with an acrylic platter, S Shaped tone arm but a different one. I think it's a 36 in belt. Needed to replace and had to go for a 36.1 in belt from Fluance. TEAC was of no use and had no spec on the belt. I dub from it's optical out direct into a TASCAM Cd recorder for LP to CD. I do not understand for that to work correctly with the CD recorder, I have TT photo preamp ON to line out. I don't use the USB out to any computer. Lastly, cart is my vintage SHURE V15 IV, with a new JICO stylus.
Looking at that model it looks so nice! But looking at the internal from images online it looks like the same internals of mine. The tonearm looks identical to the TN-400, the op amp they spec is different but the board is extremely similar to mine and the older models as well.
Wait, don't you have a system that runs into the 5-figure range? And yet you are looking at entry-level TT...and IMO, not a very good one. Puzzling. FWIW, I think the desire to get a headshell-based TT did you a disservice. Like DustyD0, the Rega P1 or one of the many Pro-Ject options in the same price range is usually what I recommend to people who want to get "a better than a Crossley" TT. Those or the U-Turn Audio one, believe it or not...at least those are made in the USA and have their own IP. Also, you know that the Ortofon probably requires a different arm height than the stock cart/headshell, right? The other thing I found puzzling was your point that "sometimes you pay more to get less"...but also state that the caps in the TEAC were crap. So...would you trade off better caps for less features (like perhaps not a detachable headshell)? I'm guessing you would. Also, of the "audiophiles" (gosh I hate that term) I know are going to want to have a standalone phono stage or have one built into their integrated amp/pre-amp...not something built into a TT that was built to given pricepoint (because how good is that going to be?). My advice, return the TEAC or sell it. Get a used Technics and/or the best new one that fits in your price range. Recently, after decades of Rega ownership (that included a P1, P3, and P6...all of which I have passed on to friends or relatives), I abandoned Roy Gandy's ship and got a Technics deck...I wanted to try direct drive. And I love it.
Was just not looking to spend that much on analog. To be fair it sounds good! How much better would a four figure table sound? Unsure, I dont think Ive evet been wowed and wisked away by the performance of a particular turntable but my experience there is limited to shows. I dont think my point is the table is bad as much as it is just poorly priced given what it is. I was told the MC Blue is pretty VTA agnostic with is why I also went for that over a MC Bronze
@@HiFiTurtle I don't think you need to spend 4 fig. to get a better sound...but I think you could have gotten better for the MSRP of what you bought (especially if you were open to used/vintage. Again, I think the desire to have detachable headshell limited (unnecessarily, IMO) your options at the price point. Also, IMO, TTs aren't just TTs...it's about the ecosystem of the TT, the cart, and the phono stage.
I just can't buy a turntable that metal platter rings like a bell if hit. I'd be hard pressed anymore to buy anything other than Delrin platter over 1" thick. Doesn't even need a mat. I have a glass platter on a Rega that's not bad with an acrylic mat. But sooo many people love Technics and direct drive metal platters I know they are fine and suit a lot of applications.
ALL aluminum platters ring OFF THE TABLE youll never hear anything out of it while playing, especially if used with a RUBBER mat to absorb any harmonics
Turntables all seem to be made by the same few companies in Asia and just rebranded. I prefer my ancient turntables myself. Just learn how to work on them, it is way more satisfying. Even the more expensive Technics models are all now made there.
You WAY overpaid for the Teac, not that its a bad table but theres much better available for same or less money - and the old JVC is worth fixing by the way. I had a similar belt drive JVC for nearly 4 decades and it never needed anything but one new belt and a single tiny drop of oil on the drive motor spindle as regular maintenance per the manual - and I did a cartridge swap like many folks eventually do.
The world is turning into a giant scam. Yes, most stuff is re branded. Teac is just a name; this goes on for almost all brands. I grew up in the days that Dual was really German and Thornes was really Swiss, it's all gone now, Audio Technica is still good. I really don't know what to say, I think the best bargain is to find an old turntable and fix it up,
Why buy yesteryear Rolls Royce that can be beat by today's hatch. Same goes with the turntables. Other point is you can't get parts. Referring to Technics. There are many Frankenstein turntables because you can't get parts. So buy new cheaper and get warranty.
@@paulboyce8537 i feel the turntable was like the cassette deck and nothing was built as well today. Yes parts can be hard ti get so just get a belt or direct drive unit from the 80s. Not much goes wrong.
@@markanderson350 Yes if you compare to the era. But I say these old turntables failed just as often as today. If you would compare the specs of the old vs new in similar quality the new has so much better tech for higher standards. The biggest difference is that most of the HIFI came from Japan. Today it is almost all made in China using the Japanese designs or improved designs from the Japanese original designs. Made in China is just as good as made in Japan if not better. The only difference is the labor cost that can give you $3000 value in $1000 price tag if it has "made in China" on it.
Hi-fi prices have risen exponentially in the past 15 years. It's become a rich man's (invariably it IS men) preserve. Even so called 'high end' equipment (mentioning no names) has been called out for poor quality control. So much of it now offshored to China.
I can name you for example Technics SL-1200GR (AU$3000) vs Pioneer PLX-1000 (AU$1000). Both Chinese made. Pioneer 1/3rd of the price but so much better in every way that it is not even funny anymore. Technics you pay for the name only. If you choose the Japanese made equivalent from Technics (AU$7000) and get technicians opinion it is a nightmare and cheap as in build quality with pointless gimmicks and extras that without you would get a better sound quality. Vinyl has become snobbery in many ways and the Technics fan boys are many attaching themselves to yesteryear when the Technics actually was good. Chinese actually is not bad and the PLX- 1000 I have is a proof of that. I'm not saying that Technics is bad either but not as good not even close. We can add to the list Stanton, Reloop that both are better than Technics and lot cheaper. Overpriced Audio-Technica LP120XUSB AU$550 the cheap start up turntable in DJ range from Hanpin also not bad but not as good as Technics. Even so the Technics SL-1500C is more or less stripped down Audio Technica. Go figure how the hell can they charge AU$1700 for this piece of shiet when the Audio-Technica AT-LP140XP that is twice the turntable go for AU$600.
So funny to hear all stories.. like that belt drive is the uper... Well.. DD is more up there.. More stable and so on. And for tonearm you mean an arm with SME connection on the end so that headshells can be changed. S style is just the shape of the arm and so on. :) And today there are so many "legendary" names out there, like TEAC, and many others that are just cheap stuff.. They sold the rights for the names and so on to cheaper factories so they can use it and gain some sales just because of the name. :) My suggestion if you are gonna stay on a budget.. Go for other known brands like Project, Rega, Reloop, Technics.. They are still doing stuff them self.. not selling their names to cheap shit :)
Way late. I'd say ( I'm over 70 , have had more than half a century with LP's ) IF economics is any sort of issue, do NOT buy an LP system. Ya can get a DVD player from a 'big box' store for $ 75 that plays CD's excel. , and don't believe LP's sound 'better'. even IF they did, that'd be on a very expensive system, starting at say $ 3 thou..... and most of the time, LP's start getting clicks & pops on their 3 rd plays. oh, good point on the replaceable SME / technics head shell. many mid / upper level players have molded one piece tonearms. look at the 4 tiny wires / connects into back of Cartridge. VERY fragile and if one breaks, yer t' table is instantly worth about 2 cents. how manufacturers ignore actual use / durability is beyond me.
Belt drive is no longer the way to go. Direct drive is the way to go. With all due respect please limit your future turntable reviews to direct drive. It is Superior.
You bought a bran name and paid for that not quality. Same goes with Technics. You buy $3000 turntable and get less than $1000 value. I was looking at $500 turntables and found that these are all rubbish. Audio Technica I almost bought it. Lucky I didn't. Reloop big step up and Pioneer a bit more. Ended up with PLX 1000. Better than 3 x more expensive Technics. Hanpin turntable. I think one of the best Hanpin turntables. Hanpin makes lot of the mid and high end mid tables. But often you only pay for the name.
@@ColtLuger Just Google it from Pioneers own site. It is less than 0.01%. And if you have been to school you would know "5" you round up. So actually the Technics would be 0.03%.
@@ColtLuger SL-1200GR Type Direct Drive Manual Turntable Turntable Speeds 33-1/3, 45 and 78 r/min Adjust Range ±8 %, ±16 % Starting Torque 2.2 kg-cm Build-up Characteristics 0.7 s. from Standstill to 33-1/3 r/min Wow And Flutter 0.025 % W.R.M.S. Rumble 78 dB (IEC 98A weighted) Turntable Platter Aluminium diecast Diameter : 332 mm Weight : Approx. 2.5 kg (Including rubber sheet) Tonearm Section Type Universal Static Balance Effective Length 230 mm Overhang 15 mm Tracking Error Angle Within 2° 32' (at the outer groove of 30 cm record) Within 0° 32' (at the inner groove of 30 cm record) Offset Angle 22° Arm-height Adjustment Range 0 - 6 mm Stylus Pressure Adjustment Range 0 - 4 g (Direct Reading) Head Shell Weight Approx. 7.6 g Applicable Cartridge Weight Range (without auxiliary weight) 5.6 - 12.0 g 14.3 - 20.7 g (including head shell) (with auxiliary weight) 10.0 - 16.4 g 18.7 - 25.1 g (including head shell) Cartridge Mounting Dimension JIS 12.7 mm (1/2") interval Head Shell Terminal Lug 1.2 mmφ 4-pin terminal lug Terminals Audio Output PHONO (Pin Jack) x 1, EARTH TERMINAL x 1 General Power Supply AC 110 - 240 V, 50 / 60 Hz Power Consumption 11 W Approx. 0.2 W (Standby) Dimensions (W x H x D) 453 x 173 x 372 mm Weight Approx. 11.5 kg
@@ColtLuger PLX-1000 Specifications Width 453 mm Height 159 mm Depth 353 mm Weight 14.6 kg Turntable Drive Method Quartz lock, servo-type, direct drive Platter Aluminium, die-casting diameter: 332 mm Motor 3-phase, brushless DC motor Braking System Electronic brake Rotation Speed 33⅓ rpm, 45 rpm Rotation Adjustment Range ±8, ±16, ±50 % Wow and Flutter 4.5 kgf・cm Start Time 0.3 sec (at 33⅓ rpm) Tone Arm Arm Type Universal type S-shape tone arm Gimbal-supported type bearing structure Static balance type Overhang 15 mm Effective Length 230 mm Tracking Error Within 3° Height Adjustment Range 6 mm Stylus Pressure Variable Range 0-4 g (1 scale 0.1 g) Single Cartridge Weight 2.5-12 g (includes mounting materials) Terminals Outputs 1 ANALOGUE (RCA)
I have one of these I am veery disappointed with it unwanted nose even when it’s not turning with just the styles gust resting on a record it’s now back in it’s box a wast of money I have old vintage turntables that are far superior
yeah a tiny motor driving the platter through a rubberband must be so much better than a super over ingenered big direct drive motor with a complex and precise motor controller from the time when turntables was on the top of development. the myth about the suposed superiority of beltdrive stem from a very intense negative propaganda from western producers of turntables that could not easily produce directdrive motors and controllers and was falling behind as old and primitive devices, they was very succesfull in this and almost killed of markets for thesophisticated japanese turntables. imagine towing a car with a rubber rope, that is what happens to the turntable. the force from the needle in the grove is rather significant , try to spin the platter by hand with the needle in a grove and you will get the idea then try and pull a little in the rubberband and imagine what happens to the speed of the platter undet this variable force , nothing good speed-vice. yuo would have been so much better of getting your nice direct drive turntable serviced, chances are that it was a very simple problem with some 40-50 year old capacitors that could be fixed for a very low price.
Fluance RT82: amzn.to/45wfzEf
1ByOne: amzn.to/48Quqwn
Audio Technica AT-LPW30TK: amzn.to/46Gx0mK
Monoprice Monolith: amzn.to/46v3hxq
Sound Dampening Tweak: amzn.to/3M3idKR
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My Technics SL-D202 I bought 40+ years ago still works great and sounds great.
I've still got my technics sl-d202 from the early 80s works great. I run an ortofon 2m blue cartridge, it sounds great.
@@winksplayle That cartridge looks nice and it gets great reviews. I put it on my Amazon record list.
@winksplayle I have a Technics SL-QD2 that still sounds very good. Today I got the Fluance RT-85 with the 2m blue cartridge. The detail and clarity is excellent but did it blow me away compared to the Technics? Honestly, no.
I love how RUclips recommends me this video just days after I bought my first turntable (it was $280).
Works great btw.
This whole video points to and expresses how the “point of diminishing returns” is a constant factor in the hobby. First, what is expensive is subjective. 500 is a lot of money for some and an insignificant number for another. A high end tonearm manufacturer isn’t going to give you all their goods on an entry level table. Why would they? Whatever the case, this hobby is a journey. We all decide where to stop and step off the train. Others keep on traveling. There’s something for everybody. There is no wrong or right. My experiences and interpretations under the same circumstances, can be viewed differently by another. The point is to enjoy, however that is defined by each of us.
Quite agree with you, but don't forget the contradictions!
"I prefer a €500 stylus before an 50 one". Clever, isn't it. And then he mounted that 500 in a €50 headshell. Pure logic! End of the sarcasm.
I'm old, I have old turntables. Get the jvc out, clean the pots and switches. It's not hard and it probably has better specs. Easier to research 1 and fix it than research 10 fantastic plastics
At the $500 new price point I tend to recommend turntables like the Pro-ject Debut Carbon, or Rega P1 for the exact reasons you mentioned in this video, those turntables to my knowledge are handmade in the same factories in Europe, and use many of the same components as all their high end turntables, where many of the $500 turntables are made in the same places with the same parts as $200-$300 turntables, not to say those turntables are bad, and wont perform well enough, but at the $500 price point id rather feel like I'm getting the "worst of the best" rather than the "best of the worst" so to speak.
Interestingly I was advised against a Rega P1 by a Rega dealer which lead me to this purchase.
@@HiFiTurtlerega is compl overpriced, and you need to do a lot of vibration pampning if you have sub or big speakers. I had a rp3 but tryed a Project debut carbon, buyed the same day, now i have a oracle Alexandria and im never changing tt again🤙
@@HiFiTurtle The same here. Official Rega dealer said to me that it is a better idea to buy a vintage japanese direct-drive turntable than any new Rega turntable under P3 model.
That and you can easily upgrade the Project DC as and when you can afford it
He probably recommended this turntable because they really had too many open boxes at the shop taking space and was told by his manager to push these into people like you. He also got a little kickback for getting it out of the shop.
I'm surprised vintage turntables with servo-damped tonearms aren't more popular. techmoan has one (a denon dp-47f) but doesn't seem to be aware of the feature.
these servo systems are a superior, electronic equivalent to the "fluid damper" sl-1200 attachments. tonearm damping reduces the lf cartridge resonance and consequently its interaction with warps and other subsonic garbage.
precisely because of brand recognition, I think secondhand sl-1200mk2s are a worse value than a lot of their more interesting contemporaries, unless you intend to scratch with them.
Denon 1200, static tonearm, more reliable, not alot of things to fix. Jvc ql7, Technics 1200mk2 even a despised sl2000 has great specs compared to new under 1000.
The answer is rather simple: these are just ticking bombs. Too old and too complex late 1970 electronics that is very hard to diagnose and repair when failure occurs.
Ill stick with my two Technics 1200s from the mid 90s that still work perfectly.
The comments on this are great and I wish there was more of it. No price level barred from examination and comparison. You may know there is one YT who focuses on what you all would agree as below entry level lauding suitcase players and such as good for beginners etc., get them into the love of records.
I'm not a big fan of the manual moving of pulley for changing speed. It's fine, it's just something that I don't prefer. I'd be concerned about finger smudging the belt. Technics made the SL-B2 that had electronic speed change and there was only one pulley on the motor and it worked great until the speed pot got dirty. I like the direct drive, quartz lock turntables. I would recommend for you getting a strobe platter vs. using your phone. Although I'm sure it doesn't matter that much, with the strobe mat, it would be perfectly balanced. I have a Teac four discreet track reel to reel tape deck (A3440) from 1979 that sounds beautiful. It still works almost perfectly.
I love your analogy. That's because you are of the old school of thought. We created listening with our pure imagination as opposed to this generation who rely on today's gadgets and technology.
Thank you. @@Stewbie63
My experience with Monolith turntable was awful... I returned it and almost gave up on turntables.. Then, decided to get a Fluance and it has been trouble free for 4+ years ! No regrets.
The speed fluctuations on your old JVC happened on a late 70s Technics I had. A SL-23 with pitch adjustments dials.
This was solved by a generous spray of electric contact cleaner to the ‘innards’ of the pitch control and 33/45 speed adjust switches.
I sold said turntable when I needed funds. I now have a Pro-Ject Essential III with an upgrade to the Ortofon OM20 stylus.
Very nice sound, hardly any resonance due to the thick mdf platter and mdf plinth with no hollow spaces (platter sits atop the plinth, not in a hollow sunk into the plinth).
Awkward belt and anti-skate fitment, yet I prefer it to the vintage Technics which also had an Audio Technica cartridge with microline stylus. I’ve decided to stick with this Pro-Ject turntable and not upgrade.
Pro-Ject make their own turntables in Austria or Czech Republic, no outsourcing to China or Taiwan. I believe the also recommendable Rega and U-Turn also have this ‘in house’ manufacturing too?
Back in the 80's you could buy a similar table to your Teac for about $100 - $175, an entry level JVC was around $119.00 - I know cause im 65 and I bought one brand new, a very basic JLA-20 that served me well. My main table now is a vintage belt drive T40 Harmon Kardon I always wanted back then but could not afford @ $349 dollars - found one on ebay a few years ago for $80 needing a little maintenance such as new rubber feet, new rubber isolation washers in the motor mounts, new belt, buffed the scratches out of the dust cover, adjusted the speeds slightly with an online manual and a platter speed disc then topped it off with a new audio technica ATVM95 cartridge and it plays like brand new. If I had to buy a new table (im cheap too) I would most likely try a Fluance RT81+ with its great reviews and escellent value for money.
Had terrible luck with rega and project, both had noisy motors which I put a video review on Amazon, got a PLX1000 and it’s perfect, to me belt drive can be problematic.
Teac is NOT the Teac of the 1970's.
Yeah, I've never seen teac recommended online anywhere. My Fluance RT-85 is great. I don't like the 2m blue so I have a AT-vm540ml on it. Sounds fantastic.
People.... Do yourselves a favour: Stop Buying Garbage.
In 1974, an entry-level turntable was about $100, which is about $625 today,
and that did not include a cartridge (add $20 to $25 then, or $155 today).
So... Why do you expect to get $780 worth of equipment for less than $400?
This is a good point. The turntables of this time were made in Germany, Japan, and the USA, no? Have to wonder as well the economics of moving that production to low cost of labor countries having an effect on price. By comparison the EU made Rega P1 and Pro-Ject Debut Carbon hit that today's dollar mark
Because today's hatch is better than yesteryear Rolls Royce and lot cheaper.
I have an old Rotel RP3000 turntable from 1977-78 with a Shure m97xe cartridge. It's all I need.
This is why they tried to destroy the reputation of the Technics SL 1200. by throwing words like "direct drive noise" oh "Its a DJ turntable" (not audiophile) No amount of painted particle boards in the colors of the rainbow will convince me that project and rega are the best entry level ever. they had to complete with a technologically advanced and. built like a tank TT. If you believe this then you 7:42 are a fool. They had to do this because the second hamd market was flooded with SL1200 for 350 to 400 dollars. You could still find some in good condition for that price.
That looks very similar to a Denon 450, I bought it as a second TT and put a Ortofon Bronze with headshell and its very good . No complaints
So is the Fluance RT85 made of cheap parts and not worth the $500? How about with a good phono preamp?
Yup, I think the selling point of the RT85 is the Ortofon 2M Blue cart thats included. I recommend the AT120X and if you want to step up to the 2M later amzn.to/3yUS7GG (affiliate)
What’s your opinion on audiotechinica ?
Good stuff, especially their carts
Lucky to buy new one of the last Sl1210mk2 new in 2010...for no more than retail. Good turntable.
I sold hi-fi between 1976 and 1982, before I got into IT. I have four turntables and roughly 3,500 LP's as well as a few hundred 45's. If I were to have to buy a modern new turntable, I would choose between either the Fluance RT85 or the Audio-Technica LP-120XUSB.
Like you, I'm cheap. I consider both of those TT's "good enough" regarding the drive system and the tonearm. And I can always improve them via a better cartridge. Honestly, the cartridge is the one advantage the Fluance has over the AT. But the drive system is a HUGE advantage of the AT. I'm a huge fan of DD, obviously.
Back in the day I really hated belt drive TT's. These were the days before the internet and getting replacement belts was a bit of a hassle. Now it's easy, but the downside is that most belt drive TT's have the belt on the outside of the platter. My one belt drive (u-Turn "plus" with built in pre) is a pain because my fingers keep knocking the belt off the platter. My old Technics SL23 from the early 70's was belt drive, but the belt and motor was under the platter. Heck, it even had a pitch control.
BTW, the biggest "bang for buch" improvement one can make to any turntable is to get a nude stylus. The cool thing about the Ortofon red is that you can get an ortofon blue nude stylus and it will definitely improve the sound.
As for me, I'm about bang for the buck, and convenience. That's why two of my turntables (both bought used) have built in pre-amps. My vintage 70's receiver has only two phono inputs but I connect these two to a tape-in and "tuner" inputs. It works because they have built in phono pre. The bluetooth connected to my TV is connected to aux, BTW.
BTW, my four turntables are
Kenwood KD-500 with ADC LMF 2 carbon tonearm. (Bought new when it first came out) Stull my main TT. It needed a serious de-oxit treatment about 12 years ago when I pulled it out of 15 years of storage.
Yamaha PF 50 fully auto (bought 15 years ago for $30 at an estate sale. Works like new). I use this one when I need the auto feature.
Audio Technica AT LP120USB, (bought used for $150 about 8 years ago). This is my workhorse for 45's, 78's and "goodwill" finds. It's also a great cleaning platform. Massive torque.
The u-Turn, bought for $125 of Facebook Marketplace with a record cleaning system, a bunch of record jackets, cleaning brushes and fluid, and seven or eight new LP's. The guy had just bought it new, tried it, didn't like vinyl, and just dumped it to get rid of it. He hadn't even opened the copy of Hendrix's Are You Experienced. I used The u-Turn as the turntable in my rebuild of a 1960's console stereo.
FWIW, I think there is even a place in the world for those Crosley Cruisers, now that I know they don't wear out records much worse than anything else. But anyone that gets one should move on pretty fast. My 12 year old grandaughter really liked hers until the motor burned up. 🤣
Today I got a Fluance RT-85, sale priced at $425. Ortofon 2m blue cartridge. I had been using my 30+ year old Technics SL-QD2 with the original Shure rxp3 cartridge and a new $40 LP Gear stylus. The RT-85 has excellent detail and clarity but did it blow me away compared to the Technics like I was expecting? Honestly, no.
Welcome to the real world. A lot of turntables are a piece of painted (or wrapped)mdf, with an inexpensive motor. My Rega plll has a 79 dollar motor. Its an open box that cost 900 bucks. The tonearm is a work of art, however,and the platter is glass. But there is just a lot more to my Technics, which cost 1799$. My first new Technics , it just shows that the more you pay the more you get
Sincere
video thanks I would go with the project company upgraded from a vintage Phillips from the '70s to the project pro 30th anniversary table and it comes with $150 cartridge good luck
Great review and info.
Good video. Normally audiophiles wouldn't look to Teac for a turntable. They've been around forever but it's clearly not their forte'. Do your research of course. 3-400 bucks will get you something good. Unfortunately, I've noticed in recent years the Teac build quality has taken a turn. They feel cheap and always break down prematurely. They can do better than this.
I'm super happy with my Direct Drive Audio-Technica. About 250 USD.
Very important video.
That's why you should have an investment once - and never look back.
Brands like Technics, Thorens, Rega and Linn are always be a good choise for that kinf of invesment.
I'd suggest redoing your dampening material, cut the pieces exactly the same size (weigh them), and place them directly across from each other, the way you showed in the video will throw the balance out of whack.
Maybe if they weighed a ton or the speed was high RPMs but at 33.3 and 45 a couple grams isnt going to do much.
You are amazing. Thanks a lot.
Dude its a $500 turntable. What do you expect? Maybe get a vintage turntable next? Much nicer and better made for $500 budgets.
The increase of speed of your former turntable was probably caused by a sudden surge of electricity therefore it probably wasn't necessary for you to buy a new turntable. What you probably need is a surge protector that you would plug your turntable and some other electronic devices into and then plug the surge protector into the mains.
Surge protectors typically activate at over 200V (In the US where standard is 120V). They protect equipment, they do not regulate voltage. Electronic equipment is built to handle fluctuations in voltage from the mains, and typically you wont see a variation of more than 1V at any given time.
I have all my equipment except the power amp plugged into high quality conditioners
Get yourself a used technics 1200/1210 mk2. You won’t regret it!
WOW, that is the loudest platter ring that I have ever heard. And I have owned 20+ turntables in the past 36 months.
That's a lot of tables!
WOW. That’s seems to be a lot of wasted expense
A professional record player has the speed sensor on the spinning platter. A commercial record player has the speed sensor inside the motor. A toy record player has no speed sensor.
This is irrespective of tone arm used and the brand printed on the case of the player.
Resonance of the platter is usually dampened with a thick cover disk made out of hard rubber.
A direct-drive turntable (SL1200) is better than a cheap belt driven one. A good belt-driven turntable has at least two speed sensor and one speed indicator, or the usual strobe light.
Entry audiophile? Not by a long shot.
Audiophile turntables do not have built in RIAA
For several years turntables do not have 78rpm
And, audiophile turntables have all the "features" they need. They concentrate on the quality of the materials, exceptional build construction and the stability of the platter the motor or motors and everything else like the arm movement etc. You are not talking of High End audio. You are talking about affordable Hi Fi systems. As an example look for Tentogra Oscar MK 2 turntable or a vintage Thorens reference for example. Those are High End and have nothing to do with Hi FI
Thank you for the info, I fall trough with the same thoughts, right now I’m looking to get any used thorens turntable at the same price point will be always better than this generic with punch of lies
My fleet of turntables are all TECHNICS .The oldest being a 1979 1200mk2 silver model . Technics or Die!
Some switch cleaner on the pitch control would have fixed the JVC.
I still have it! Probably will try to do some basic repair at some point and see. Theres some very audible motor noise as well.
You had to find that out. A lot of us have had to learn that way. Luckily it wasn't THAT expensive of a lesson. If I'm honest and you deserve honesty because I feel you give that to us. .I agree with DustyDO comment below about brands but go higher up the chain. Your ear deserves a $5000 turntable (Rega P8 or better a P10 level) No more sub $1500. I know.. Money. But like it or not, you have a sophisticated ear. I found this out myself. I recently upgraded my ten year old Rega RP6 (A $1500 TT, which has it's own separate Neo Power supply that can change speeds with a button press, not a belt pulley switch). I changed the subplatter, platter mat and tone arm and upgraded from a good MM to a better MC cartridge. I was shocked by the change in the sound. Honestly, it's a whole other experience listening to LPs. My turntable now clearly out performs my digital (ifi zen stream and Denafrips Terminator 12th!) as far as detail and three dimensionality - Instruments and voices seem to float in the air). I think I have to follow my advise to you, but about digital. I need a $5000 streamer/server!
Maybe one day!
Luckily digital is much more simple than the analog domain. Theres a lot of great streamers and servers that dont cost an arm and a leg. Or if you want the glitz and glam an arm and a leg is certainly exchangable for them 🤣
Holding the platter up and ringing it like a bell really has no bearing on how it will perform on the table - ive had several tables with aluminum platters and not once have I ever heard platter ring make it into the sound chain - if that worries one, just use a rubber mat like all tables used to use to dampen and harmonics. I have a vintage $350 Harmon Kardon from the 80's and it came with a heavy and beautifully machined 2.3 pound aluminum platter and it will ring the same way - IF you hold it up in the air and strike it, but again never has the table displayed this ringing during play back, and once again it came with a rubber mat that would guarantee to dampen it. Theres a reason all tables used to use rubber mats, they just work and do the job they were designed to do.
Dont let the audiophile companies kid you, they delete semi auto and auto features to cut cost, semi auto if it makes any noise at all its not while playing records its usually at end of record etc -
This Teac is definitely overpriced. As fot the arm, an S shaped arm, offers no advantages over a straight arm, as most of each offer interchangeable headshells. When using a phone app, phone must be placed over the spindle, or platter will be unbalanceddd. When platter is in place, it will not ring, nearly as much. You should not assume that it's junk, due to a Taiwanese maker. You should keep it, as it's decent quality, OR fix your JVC, which is a far better unit. Teac is NOT well known as a turntable brand. Also don't mention ION in this mix, as ION is absolutely crap, comparable to Crosley, and doesn't belong in this discussion. If you want to go belt, the top model Fluance, should be your choice.
Thank you
Did TEAC downgrade internal quality of models in the last few years? I wish you could look inside mine.
Not an entry level. I got TEAC TN 570 3 1/2 years ago just before it was discontinued. Same deck configuration as yours, with an acrylic platter, S Shaped tone arm but a different one. I think it's a 36 in belt. Needed to replace and had to go for a 36.1 in belt from Fluance. TEAC was of no use and had no spec on the belt.
I dub from it's optical out direct into a TASCAM Cd recorder for LP to CD.
I do not understand for that to work correctly with the CD recorder, I have TT photo preamp ON to line out. I don't use the USB out to any computer.
Lastly, cart is my vintage SHURE V15 IV, with a new JICO stylus.
Looking at that model it looks so nice! But looking at the internal from images online it looks like the same internals of mine. The tonearm looks identical to the TN-400, the op amp they spec is different but the board is extremely similar to mine and the older models as well.
Wait, don't you have a system that runs into the 5-figure range? And yet you are looking at entry-level TT...and IMO, not a very good one. Puzzling.
FWIW, I think the desire to get a headshell-based TT did you a disservice. Like DustyD0, the Rega P1 or one of the many Pro-Ject options in the same price range is usually what I recommend to people who want to get "a better than a Crossley" TT. Those or the U-Turn Audio one, believe it or not...at least those are made in the USA and have their own IP. Also, you know that the Ortofon probably requires a different arm height than the stock cart/headshell, right?
The other thing I found puzzling was your point that "sometimes you pay more to get less"...but also state that the caps in the TEAC were crap. So...would you trade off better caps for less features (like perhaps not a detachable headshell)? I'm guessing you would. Also, of the "audiophiles" (gosh I hate that term) I know are going to want to have a standalone phono stage or have one built into their integrated amp/pre-amp...not something built into a TT that was built to given pricepoint (because how good is that going to be?).
My advice, return the TEAC or sell it. Get a used Technics and/or the best new one that fits in your price range. Recently, after decades of Rega ownership (that included a P1, P3, and P6...all of which I have passed on to friends or relatives), I abandoned Roy Gandy's ship and got a Technics deck...I wanted to try direct drive. And I love it.
Was just not looking to spend that much on analog. To be fair it sounds good! How much better would a four figure table sound? Unsure, I dont think Ive evet been wowed and wisked away by the performance of a particular turntable but my experience there is limited to shows. I dont think my point is the table is bad as much as it is just poorly priced given what it is.
I was told the MC Blue is pretty VTA agnostic with is why I also went for that over a MC Bronze
@@HiFiTurtle I don't think you need to spend 4 fig. to get a better sound...but I think you could have gotten better for the MSRP of what you bought (especially if you were open to used/vintage. Again, I think the desire to have detachable headshell limited (unnecessarily, IMO) your options at the price point.
Also, IMO, TTs aren't just TTs...it's about the ecosystem of the TT, the cart, and the phono stage.
It’s interesting that you use a $500+ MC cartridge on a $500 turntable.
I just can't buy a turntable that metal platter rings like a bell if hit.
I'd be hard pressed anymore to buy anything other than Delrin platter over 1" thick. Doesn't even need a mat.
I have a glass platter on a Rega that's not bad with an acrylic mat.
But sooo many people love Technics and direct drive metal platters I know they are fine and suit a lot of applications.
ALL aluminum platters ring OFF THE TABLE youll never hear anything out of it while playing, especially if used with a RUBBER mat to absorb any harmonics
Turntables all seem to be made by the same few companies in Asia and just rebranded. I prefer my ancient turntables myself. Just learn how to work on them, it is way more satisfying. Even the more expensive Technics models are all now made there.
Just buy a CD player, problem solved 👍
You get what you pay.... For 350 Euro in Europe its more than fine... Bluetooth and a preamp... Just for Free is cheaper...
You WAY overpaid for the Teac, not that its a bad table but theres much better available for same or less money - and the old JVC is worth fixing by the way. I had a similar belt drive JVC for nearly 4 decades and it never needed anything but one new belt and a single tiny drop of oil on the drive motor spindle as regular maintenance per the manual - and I did a cartridge swap like many folks eventually do.
The world is turning into a giant scam. Yes, most stuff is re branded. Teac is just a name; this goes on for almost all brands. I grew up in the days that Dual was really German and Thornes was really Swiss, it's all gone now, Audio Technica is still good. I really don't know what to say, I think the best bargain is to find an old turntable and fix it up,
Yup, lots of legacy brands have been scooped up by big money and seen the engineering replaced with sales and marketing
Why buy yesteryear Rolls Royce that can be beat by today's hatch. Same goes with the turntables. Other point is you can't get parts. Referring to Technics. There are many Frankenstein turntables because you can't get parts. So buy new cheaper and get warranty.
@@paulboyce8537 i feel the turntable was like the cassette deck and nothing was built as well today. Yes parts can be hard ti get so just get a belt or direct drive unit from the 80s. Not much goes wrong.
You are so right!
@@markanderson350 Yes if you compare to the era. But I say these old turntables failed just as often as today. If you would compare the specs of the old vs new in similar quality the new has so much better tech for higher standards. The biggest difference is that most of the HIFI came from Japan. Today it is almost all made in China using the Japanese designs or improved designs from the Japanese original designs. Made in China is just as good as made in Japan if not better. The only difference is the labor cost that can give you $3000 value in $1000 price tag if it has "made in China" on it.
Hi-fi prices have risen exponentially in the past 15 years. It's become a rich man's (invariably it IS men) preserve. Even so called 'high end' equipment (mentioning no names) has been called out for poor quality control. So much of it now offshored to China.
Technics from Hanpin. HaHa. Yes you pay and give your right arm to get rubbish. $3000 for less than $1000 value.
You are so right!
I can name you for example Technics SL-1200GR (AU$3000) vs Pioneer PLX-1000 (AU$1000). Both Chinese made. Pioneer 1/3rd of the price but so much better in every way that it is not even funny anymore. Technics you pay for the name only. If you choose the Japanese made equivalent from Technics (AU$7000) and get technicians opinion it is a nightmare and cheap as in build quality with pointless gimmicks and extras that without you would get a better sound quality. Vinyl has become snobbery in many ways and the Technics fan boys are many attaching themselves to yesteryear when the Technics actually was good.
Chinese actually is not bad and the PLX- 1000 I have is a proof of that. I'm not saying that Technics is bad either but not as good not even close. We can add to the list Stanton, Reloop that both are better than Technics and lot cheaper. Overpriced Audio-Technica LP120XUSB AU$550 the cheap start up turntable in DJ range from Hanpin also not bad but not as good as Technics. Even so the Technics SL-1500C is more or less stripped down Audio Technica. Go figure how the hell can they charge AU$1700 for this piece of shiet when the Audio-Technica AT-LP140XP that is twice the turntable go for AU$600.
So funny to hear all stories.. like that belt drive is the uper... Well.. DD is more up there.. More stable and so on. And for tonearm you mean an arm with SME connection on the end so that headshells can be changed. S style is just the shape of the arm and so on. :)
And today there are so many "legendary" names out there, like TEAC, and many others that are just cheap stuff.. They sold the rights for the names and so on to cheaper factories so they can use it and gain some sales just because of the name. :)
My suggestion if you are gonna stay on a budget.. Go for other known brands like Project, Rega, Reloop, Technics.. They are still doing stuff them self.. not selling their names to cheap shit :)
Bought it today, new, for 160$
Thats a good deal!
I definitely think the Teac name is what sold it. Almost as bad as SnapOn to a mechanic.
Buy a Rega! 25 years and works like new.....
Way late. I'd say ( I'm over 70 , have had more than half a century with LP's ) IF economics is any sort of issue, do NOT buy an LP system. Ya can get a DVD player from a 'big box' store for $ 75 that plays CD's excel. , and don't believe LP's sound 'better'. even IF they did, that'd be on a very expensive system, starting at say $ 3 thou..... and most of the time, LP's start getting clicks & pops on their 3 rd plays.
oh, good point on the replaceable SME / technics head shell. many mid / upper level players have molded one piece tonearms. look at the 4 tiny wires / connects into back of Cartridge. VERY fragile and if one breaks, yer t' table is instantly worth about 2 cents. how manufacturers ignore actual use / durability is beyond me.
Just bought a kenwood kd-3070 for $70
I spent $350 on a U turn Orbit. It blows, One of my biggest purchase regrets, should have just spent $350 on a GOOD DAC
Which model did you purchase, and what are your specific complaints? I'm narrowing my choices, and U-Turn is on the list.
I have a vintage Sony ps6750, better bould for €400 i paid for.
Belt drive is no longer the way to go. Direct drive is the way to go. With all due respect please limit your future turntable reviews to direct drive. It is Superior.
TEAC's claim to fame and their real legend lies with their reel to reel and cassette players back in the day, mainly the reel to reels
You bought a bran name and paid for that not quality. Same goes with Technics. You buy $3000 turntable and get less than $1000 value. I was looking at $500 turntables and found that these are all rubbish. Audio Technica I almost bought it. Lucky I didn't. Reloop big step up and Pioneer a bit more. Ended up with PLX 1000. Better than 3 x more expensive Technics. Hanpin turntable. I think one of the best Hanpin turntables. Hanpin makes lot of the mid and high end mid tables. But often you only pay for the name.
The PLX 1000 has a wow and flutter of 0.1% an SL-1200MK7 has a wow and flutter of 0.025% I wouldn't say that is better.
@@ColtLuger Just Google it from Pioneers own site. It is less than 0.01%. And if you have been to school you would know "5" you round up. So actually the Technics would be 0.03%.
@@ColtLuger
SL-1200GR
Type
Direct Drive Manual Turntable
Turntable Speeds
33-1/3, 45 and 78 r/min
Adjust Range
±8 %, ±16 %
Starting Torque
2.2 kg-cm
Build-up Characteristics
0.7 s. from Standstill to 33-1/3 r/min
Wow And Flutter
0.025 % W.R.M.S.
Rumble
78 dB (IEC 98A weighted)
Turntable Platter
Aluminium diecast
Diameter : 332 mm
Weight : Approx. 2.5 kg (Including rubber sheet)
Tonearm Section
Type
Universal Static Balance
Effective Length
230 mm
Overhang
15 mm
Tracking Error Angle
Within 2° 32' (at the outer groove of 30 cm record)
Within 0° 32' (at the inner groove of 30 cm record)
Offset Angle
22°
Arm-height Adjustment Range
0 - 6 mm
Stylus Pressure Adjustment Range
0 - 4 g (Direct Reading)
Head Shell Weight
Approx. 7.6 g
Applicable Cartridge Weight Range
(without auxiliary weight)
5.6 - 12.0 g
14.3 - 20.7 g (including head shell)
(with auxiliary weight)
10.0 - 16.4 g
18.7 - 25.1 g (including head shell)
Cartridge Mounting Dimension
JIS 12.7 mm (1/2") interval
Head Shell Terminal Lug
1.2 mmφ 4-pin terminal lug
Terminals
Audio Output
PHONO (Pin Jack) x 1, EARTH TERMINAL x 1
General
Power Supply
AC 110 - 240 V, 50 / 60 Hz
Power Consumption
11 W
Approx. 0.2 W (Standby)
Dimensions (W x H x D)
453 x 173 x 372 mm
Weight
Approx. 11.5 kg
@@ColtLuger PLX-1000
Specifications
Width
453 mm
Height
159 mm
Depth
353 mm
Weight
14.6 kg
Turntable
Drive Method
Quartz lock, servo-type, direct drive
Platter
Aluminium, die-casting diameter: 332 mm
Motor
3-phase, brushless DC motor
Braking System
Electronic brake
Rotation Speed
33⅓ rpm, 45 rpm
Rotation Adjustment Range
±8, ±16, ±50 %
Wow and Flutter
4.5 kgf・cm
Start Time
0.3 sec (at 33⅓ rpm)
Tone Arm
Arm Type
Universal type S-shape tone arm
Gimbal-supported type bearing structure
Static balance type
Overhang
15 mm
Effective Length
230 mm
Tracking Error
Within 3°
Height Adjustment Range
6 mm
Stylus Pressure Variable Range
0-4 g (1 scale 0.1 g)
Single Cartridge Weight
2.5-12 g (includes mounting materials)
Terminals
Outputs
1 ANALOGUE (RCA)
@@ColtLuger You can easily compare the torque, wow, weight, tonearm, insulation, pitch, sound quality all better with only 1/3rd of the coin.
I have one of these I am veery disappointed with it unwanted nose even when it’s not turning with just the styles gust resting on a record it’s now back in it’s box a wast of money I have old vintage turntables that are far superior
yeah a tiny motor driving the platter through a rubberband must be so much better than a super over ingenered big direct drive motor with a complex and precise motor controller from the time when turntables was on the top of development. the myth about the suposed superiority of beltdrive stem from a very intense negative propaganda from western producers of turntables that could not easily produce directdrive motors and controllers and was falling behind as old and primitive devices, they was very succesfull in this and almost killed of markets for thesophisticated japanese turntables. imagine towing a car with a rubber rope, that is what happens to the turntable. the force from the needle in the grove is rather significant , try to spin the platter by hand with the needle in a grove and you will get the idea then try and pull a little in the rubberband and imagine what happens to the speed of the platter undet this variable force , nothing good speed-vice. yuo would have been so much better of getting your nice direct drive turntable serviced, chances are that it was a very simple problem with some 40-50 year old capacitors that could be fixed for a very low price.
Look at that teeny motor. Sad.
This is why cds are superior
100% agree.
As a record collector, I also 100% agree
CD 👍
Yep, audiofoolery is an expensive business.
Indeed,it is also a disease that cannot be cured!