By the grace of god I’ve reach 240,000 miles with a un opened n18. Never even had a timing chain done. I also have a stage 3 tune with a bigger turbo. The only issue it has is Smokey valve seals.
How do you rotate the crank for alignment at 90 deg before TDC on an auto? Great video by the way. I followed your link from Mini Cooper DIY Help. I have four in various stages of disrepair. I plan to restore three of them. 01, 03, 07, 09S. The 03 will get the CVT trans from the 01 and the 01 will be scrapped for remaining parts. The 07 needs the AC fixed and the 09 I haven't gotten a good look at yet but the top end sounds like a box of rocks and it fogs for mosquitos after idling for 30 seconds or more. I hope you keep making videos, the no BS approach is great.
Hi I just recently changed the valve cover o my n18 and the car had the same symptoms towards the end of the video what did you do to get the car to start back up?
Hi, I hope you answer me you show the pistons they’re all lining up. Is it OK to install the head the way the pistons are all lining up please answer. Urgent please answer.
Sorry for not responding. Timing chain is prob about $2500 or so depending on the dealership. My dealership rate is only $165 but mine in California was $200/hr. I do do side jobs here in abq. dot.cards/dgautohaus?a=user%2Fjeoplztrldbirrsof3ll6cc6c%2Fc%2Fbl
Found your video a few days back, great video very informative. Referring to your video I was able to complete installing a new timing chain in my 2011 non turbo but now my crankcase breather hose is broken. I have been looking hi and low but no luck for the correct one. My local BMW dealership was not able to help so would you have any information to locate this part. Again, great video and thank you in advance.
Nxx engines don’t have timing covers. It’s built into the block and head. Guide bolts and front cover seals can leak in them. Also check front crank seal. B3x engines leak from front timing covers. I have a video on that as well.
@DGAutohaus thanks for getting back to me. I had a co worker recommend this and the "upper oil pan" which I came to find out is also a bed plate and not an upper oil pan. Of course I'm the lucky guy that gets to deal with it but now that I got a better understanding of these engines I'll take a close look tomorrow and let them know that we need to just focuse on the main leak which is from the oil filter housing and not waste my time on the other two things
Just did the valve seals last weekend and i should've known messing with the timing i should have replaced it because there's a slight rattle between on and off throttle now. (80k miles on a 2011) So i'm doing timing this weekend. I used the tensioner screw thing to tension the chain while i torqued the cam bolts and i noticed you didn't use that. is it better to torque the cam bolts with the actual tensioner in? they say the screw tensioner is supposed to be torqued to like 0.8nm to take slack out of the chain, then torque the cam bolts down and then install the actual tensioner. p.s. i dropped 2 keepers putting all 32 in by hand, sure wish i knew about the grease. one was found down in the front bumper, and the other inside the fan shroud. I should go buy a lottery ticket.
Actually using the special tool is preferred. I don’t use it and haven’t had any issues yet but I’ve seen it cause others issues so it’s good you used it.
I was wondering this same thing. This is the step I'm trying to find clarification on before I put mine back together. Pre-tension or not? I have a 2014 mini Countryman s. Do the years matter for pre-tension? Or just don't worry about it at all?
Super awesome video! When installing the timing chain on around the VANOS sprockets, what is the correct "slack" for the chain? Or it will only fit one way? How can you tell is installed correctly?
Only goes one way. It’s going to be loose because the tensioner should be out. Once you put the tensioner in it will get tight. Torque sequence for me is all guide bolts, crank bolt, tensioner then both cams.
@@DGAutohaus awesome, thanks for the prompt reply! So torque specs are as follow: - 24Nm bottom x2 guide bolts - 25Nm for ("the one that goes into the cylinder head"@17:27?) - 50Nm + 180° for crankshaft bolt. - 80Nm for Tensioner. - 20Nm + 180° for VANOS sprockets bolts.
Hi everyone. Maybe you can all help me. I have these error codes. P1338 2DA0 2C58 I start the car and after 2 km an error appears while if the car is warm I can travel without problems. It happened to you too. Do the video sensors have to be computer coded? hello everyone from Italy
6:39 I don’t waste my time with that goofy tool. I just unhook the spring legs from the rear, and unbolt the entire assembly from the cams. It’s 3 bolts (not reusable) saves a ton of time, and money on a borderline worthless tool.
The amount of times I’ve done valve guide seals and more on these cars it’s more than paid for itself 10x. I’d love to see how you get the springs back in. I’ll stick to the tool. Thanks for the input.
@@DGAutohausThere is a guy on RUclips who made a video about it. For some reason I can post links, nor share his name 😂😂😂 but just look up mini R56 easy valvetronic installation. Video will come up. Saves a ton of labor time. I’ve been doing this for 21 years, and it’s never too late to learn new tricks.
@@DGAutohause uses a modified screwdriver, but I prefer an angled cat claw. Literally all you do is hook back the spring leg into the slot one by one. Takes 2 minutes? Tops. Now imagine on a N62 or N63TU? Or even the N52/N55. Saves TONS of time.
By the grace of god I’ve reach 240,000 miles with a un opened n18. Never even had a timing chain done. I also have a stage 3 tune with a bigger turbo. The only issue it has is Smokey valve seals.
Thanks Darren - lots of useful information in this video. Much appreciated.
How do you rotate the crank for alignment at 90 deg before TDC on an auto? Great video by the way. I followed your link from Mini Cooper DIY Help. I have four in various stages of disrepair. I plan to restore three of them. 01, 03, 07, 09S. The 03 will get the CVT trans from the 01 and the 01 will be scrapped for remaining parts. The 07 needs the AC fixed and the 09 I haven't gotten a good look at yet but the top end sounds like a box of rocks and it fogs for mosquitos after idling for 30 seconds or more. I hope you keep making videos, the no BS approach is great.
This helped me so much! Thanks for the share, I got straight through my repair with your expert help!
Thanks Darren! Really good job for 1st video. I have a 2012 Mini Cooper S R56 N18 so I hope you continue to upload videos in the near future.
Hi I just recently changed the valve cover o my n18 and the car had the same symptoms towards the end of the video what did you do to get the car to start back up?
Hi, I hope you answer me you show the pistons they’re all lining up. Is it OK to install the head the way the pistons are all lining up please answer. Urgent please answer.
What did you do to the car when he wasn’t starting? I know you messed with the coils but then you mess with something else what was it?
You can install the head with the pistons anywhere but you need to time the engine before starting.
Thanks for the video. At what mileage do you recommend to change the timing chain on those N18 engines?
80-100k but I’ve seen them fail sooner
If you lock the crank with the tool and the camshaft with the tool (numbers facing up). than are you timed?
Same question. Trying to be very careful.
This is correct. It only times the cams and crank. Vanos units can be positioned in any way.
What is the cost for this at the dealership? Do you do this on the side? I've already purchased the replacement parts. Im right up the road on 550.
Yeah I really wish I knew how much this job cost. It's a ton of work and time, so I know it wasn't cheap.
Sorry for not responding. Timing chain is prob about $2500 or so depending on the dealership. My dealership rate is only $165 but mine in California was $200/hr. I do do side jobs here in abq. dot.cards/dgautohaus?a=user%2Fjeoplztrldbirrsof3ll6cc6c%2Fc%2Fbl
Found your video a few days back, great video very informative. Referring to your video I was able to complete installing a new timing chain in my 2011 non turbo but now my crankcase breather hose is broken. I have been looking hi and low but no luck for the correct one. My local BMW dealership was not able to help so would you have any information to locate this part. Again, great video and thank you in advance.
Check www.realoem.com for the part number. Can also check ecs tuning and fcp euro for replacements
Thank you for replying.
Have you guys ever done a timing cover for an oil leak? If so does that include removing the head also or the oil pan?
Nxx engines don’t have timing covers. It’s built into the block and head. Guide bolts and front cover seals can leak in them. Also check front crank seal. B3x engines leak from front timing covers. I have a video on that as well.
@DGAutohaus thanks for getting back to me. I had a co worker recommend this and the "upper oil pan" which I came to find out is also a bed plate and not an upper oil pan. Of course I'm the lucky guy that gets to deal with it but now that I got a better understanding of these engines I'll take a close look tomorrow and let them know that we need to just focuse on the main leak which is from the oil filter housing and not waste my time on the other two things
Just did the valve seals last weekend and i should've known messing with the timing i should have replaced it because there's a slight rattle between on and off throttle now. (80k miles on a 2011) So i'm doing timing this weekend. I used the tensioner screw thing to tension the chain while i torqued the cam bolts and i noticed you didn't use that. is it better to torque the cam bolts with the actual tensioner in? they say the screw tensioner is supposed to be torqued to like 0.8nm to take slack out of the chain, then torque the cam bolts down and then install the actual tensioner. p.s. i dropped 2 keepers putting all 32 in by hand, sure wish i knew about the grease. one was found down in the front bumper, and the other inside the fan shroud. I should go buy a lottery ticket.
Actually using the special tool is preferred. I don’t use it and haven’t had any issues yet but I’ve seen it cause others issues so it’s good you used it.
I was wondering this same thing. This is the step I'm trying to find clarification on before I put mine back together. Pre-tension or not? I have a 2014 mini Countryman s. Do the years matter for pre-tension? Or just don't worry about it at all?
Super awesome video! When installing the timing chain on around the VANOS sprockets, what is the correct "slack" for the chain? Or it will only fit one way? How can you tell is installed correctly?
Only goes one way. It’s going to be loose because the tensioner should be out. Once you put the tensioner in it will get tight. Torque sequence for me is all guide bolts, crank bolt, tensioner then both cams.
@@DGAutohaus awesome, thanks for the prompt reply!
So torque specs are as follow:
- 24Nm bottom x2 guide bolts
- 25Nm for ("the one that goes into the cylinder head"@17:27?)
- 50Nm + 180° for crankshaft bolt.
- 80Nm for Tensioner.
- 20Nm + 180° for VANOS sprockets bolts.
I have inlet and exhaust cam correlation codes after timing chain and dephaser kit fitted. Car runs fine, few cranks to start. Any ideas?
Bmw/mini specific codes?
Hi everyone. Maybe you can all help me.
I have these error codes.
P1338
2DA0
2C58
I start the car and after 2 km an error appears while if the car is warm I can travel without problems.
It happened to you too. Do the video sensors have to be computer coded? hello everyone from Italy
Are both the intake and exhaust cam sprocket bolts torque to yield or just the intake/vanos cam sprocket bolts and crank bolt
Both no matter what N engine it is.
Now I know why the dealer wants so much.
I have problems error code 2DA0 inlet camshaft: angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance
Cooper S? N14? You want me to Help you
Check timing
6:39 I don’t waste my time with that goofy tool. I just unhook the spring legs from the rear, and unbolt the entire assembly from the cams. It’s 3 bolts (not reusable) saves a ton of time, and money on a borderline worthless tool.
The amount of times I’ve done valve guide seals and more on these cars it’s more than paid for itself 10x. I’d love to see how you get the springs back in. I’ll stick to the tool. Thanks for the input.
@@DGAutohausThere is a guy on RUclips who made a video about it. For some reason I can post links, nor share his name 😂😂😂 but just look up mini R56 easy valvetronic installation. Video will come up.
Saves a ton of labor time. I’ve been doing this for 21 years, and it’s never too late to learn new tricks.
@@DGAutohause uses a modified screwdriver, but I prefer an angled cat claw. Literally all you do is hook back the spring leg into the slot one by one. Takes 2 minutes? Tops.
Now imagine on a N62 or N63TU? Or even the N52/N55. Saves TONS of time.
What 3 bolts are not reusable?