Lots of comments on the torque setting for the spring bolts, I didn't (and unfortunately still don't) have them. I used common sense, we're tightening steel into aluminium, so I went hand tight, and then used the mechanics "wrist" to gauge it. Hand tight and a quarter turn hasn't ever let me down with these. 👌
Very nice. It can also help to take some tension out of the long leg of the spring prior to loosening the bolt. Using a screwdriver, pry and move the spring leg out of the secondary rocker arm groove. This will take about 20% of tension out of the system and you don't have to fight as much pressure with the spanners.
thank you man, i spend along time trying to did this job with no results, your method its amazing but with one little problem its the little peace of metal you put it behind the springs because when i did this and finish it stuck there and it cant be removed then i change it with two alan wrenches putting them behind every spring vertically and it was easy to remove and again thank you.
Great advice one old head bolt two 11mm ring spanners and an old 1/4 ring spanner with the. Ring end cut off. Twenty minutes done Helper a must. Thanks
Jeebedee Got another lad on here needing to do his lifters, was it possible to do them with the cam in place, or was it a cam off job? I'm thinking Cam off, but wasnt sure. Thanks. Pete.
I had the same issue, the easiest way is to install the spring with the two fingers on top touching the cam and tighten the bolts holding the spring. Then take a long pair on needle nose plyers and grab one side of the spring and bend it down and hook it on the follower one at a time, doing two at a time is very hard. But doing then one arm at a time is very quick and easy, I've done it and its the way to go.
Nice one. Saved the day. You do have to watch that the spanners don't push the triangular sheath around the hole too far, or else you'll cover the tapped hole in the head, and struggle to get the screw in. And watch those followers etc as the video mentions.
@@peteledwidge3631 you really did. mate of a mate bought a three grand car for £1400 for his daughter. Guess what, head gasket f****D. Just trying to sort it out for him without spending a sodding fortune. Thanks!
Good tip, but if you don't want to lose your eyesight, or damage the mechanism, you always should use the spring tool. I disassembled the Valvetronic on my N55. The preload is very high and dangerous!
What exactly do you imagine would come apart and get anywhere near your eyes Sir? If anybody is paranoid, by all means, wear eye protection... it's a good precaution anyhow. This method is sound & (I believe) the best 'no special tools' solution to the problem. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks Pete, i didnt think so, i did the timing twice and the garage today said they couldn't fix it so its come back to me to repair this engine has such a bad reputation they dont want to touch it, weird because my wifes mini has the exact same engine with no issues., they did ask if i used an inclinometer during timing of which i didnt i used a cam locking tool. Thanks mate will let you know if i find the dreaded cylinder 1 misfire at idle.
Jay Kent From my years of experience as a weekend tinkerer, then full time mechanic, Peugeots are Sh*te. (At least 80% of vehicles I see for serious defects are Peugeots, they keep me in business! 🤣). Other models using the PSA engines: ford, bmw, citroen etc dont have any issues with exactly the same units. I believe it must be down to Peugeot build quality. All it can be really.
Hi Pete, when you do timing on this engine do you need to do anything special to the eccentric camshaft motor, i also saw some one using an inclinometer as well as the locking tool during timing?
Jay Kent Nope, other than setting the wormdrive to least resistance on the rockers, using the adjuster on the rear of the motor unit. It will auto resync without diagnostic intervention.
On some valvetronic motors, there is a hex key driven (3mm I think) manual wind to detension the variable valve lift eccentric shaft, but it doesn't matter because the car re-initializes (re-learns the position) on every startup.
Hi Great video, i have the same engine and beleive there is an issue with the hydraulic valve lifter on cylinder one, using your great method is it possible to change the valve lifters without removing the head and cam shaft? Kind regards Jay
Jay Kent, Hi pal, check out other YT vids for the working principle of valvetronic, it will help your understanding of the system and aid your diagnosis. 👍 It will be possible to do the job you describe with the head on, but you'll need to remove the cam / valvetronic system. It's less daunting then you would expect, with the correct tools for the job. You'll need the correct timing & spring compressor tools (if spring is broken) which are both inexpensive on flea bay. Check these links. Spring compressor: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F15017008733%3Fiid%3D282723513151 Timing tools: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201312710448
I'm working on an engine that has bent valves and damaged the seats, which had detached from the head. Watching your video, I see how you've got round the heavy top springs in a great way. The question I have is the fitting of the lower inlet camshaft (the camshaft with the toothed quadrant which is driven by the worm gear.) is it positioned in a certain way so the worm drive is meshed ? Thanks
There is an usually an allen / torx bolt in the rear body of the worm drive. Wind the worm gear all the way anti-clockwise to give the least resistance on the shaft and then place the valvetronic cam in with lobes off TDC, so that they will be providing the least pressure on other components. The worm drive will self adjust on turning the ignition. Alternatively remove the worm drive completely, so that no pressure is present, and install after installation of the valvetronic shaft. Either will work.
Pete Ledwidge thankyou for your kind reply, I'm replacing bent exhaust valves on No 4 cylinder, the inlets are bent also, and the seats have detached. This was caused by an overheating fault, the head got too hot, the inlet seats came adrift and stopped the engine. I've stripped the head, had it skimmed and I'm waiting for he valves to arrive. Your explanation is very helpful, I've been trying to work it out, and like your video on the way to refit the springs is indeed clever. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks and best regards steve
Pete Ledwidge hi there, I rebuilt the engine, it runs well and I Learned quite a lot about the cooper too. It had bent valves on No. four cylinder and the seats had dropped out. I worked out the lower inlet camshaft position ok. For your info, the video you made helped me a great deal. Thanks very much indeed.
Im doing this right now. And was very anxious to have to spend 200€ more on tooling for this repair (im stil small) already bought locking tools and the valve stem tools also Make my own Air compresión hose/tube. And when i see the cost of pliers was like dammmmm your video put some light on my way THANKS so much (suscribed, following, like and all the good stuff for you) 👍👍🤘🤘
Hi and your video is very good, I have a 1.6 vti 120hp 2008 engine and it has an oil consumption, not made smoke from the exhaust pipe, I have been told that it is possible that it is the gaskets of the valves, what can you tell me by your experience, thanks
Valve stem seal oil leaks (I assume this is what you refer to) usually result in blue smoke from the exhaust. If it's not burning oil, is the oil in the coolant? This would suggest headgasket failure. Only other scenario would be an external oil leak to atmosphere. 👍
Hey Pete, I'm about to re-install a freshly resurfaced and rebuilt cylinder head in my 2010 Mini Cooper Clubman (N12, non-turbo motor) and I have a question that maybe you can help with?! I removed the Valvetronic motor prior to dropping off the head at the machine shop, and realize that I'm not sure how to properly re-install it to keep everything in time. Do I simply insert the motor and use the allen key slot in the rear to thread the motor back in and tighten down the three hold down bolts through the triangular flange on the motor? Is any other adjustment needed? Thanks!!
This has been up for almost a year now and only 9 dislikes, that's a pretty good going... I think 9 people probably bought a very expensive tool, then felt some proper hot chilli butt hurt when they realised they could have done it for almost nothing. 🤣
@@SanDoval201970 so, I take it you dont like peugeot owners?! Hehe! Not after view counts on YT mate, if you like it and it's relevant, share the good news brother! Other than that the title remains, for 2 good reasons 1) CBA to change it, 2) I'd have to re-upload which would basically kill the whole thing dead. Thanks anyway! 😉
Hey man. Wanted to thank you for the video, I swapped connecting rods in a bmw n55 engine and used your method for the valvetronic springs. Worked like a charm. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks Pete !!! have you ever had this motor intermittently hiccup at idle and under load or not but not caused by load on the motor ....im thinking broken valve spring ??
@@peteledwidge3631 Thanks checked for fault codes nothing , but the pollution warning comes on and car misses no power , still no codes . i regapped the plugs seems different , they were about 2mm ...cheers
Get a fresh set of plugs in, they cost next to nothing. Check the coil packs by disconnecting each in turn with the engine running, each 1 should cause a misfire when disconnected. If any do not cause a change in engine note, replace as necessary.
Great video Pete, I'm about to work on my wife's mini, I'm ex mechanic myself, noise that comes from the valvetrain sounds like damage due to oil starvation as I can hear high pitch squeak with 1 sec intervals. Hope ain't the cam journals . I'm planning to change all 16 rocker arms ( intermediate rockers ) as that's my best bet going by the noise I hear. Do you think locking the timing at the flywheel will be sufficient enough to play with those horrible springs and change the rockers ? Thanks
As far as I know the cam locking tool aint too expensive, I'd get and use both in order to time everything up on the way back together, other than that you should be all good to leave the head in place. Lock the crank, leave the chain hanging and proceed from there. 👍
P.S. You're never an 'ex' mechanic... once you have the skills to repair a motor, you are always a mechanic, regardless of what career you persue next. Mechanics are a rare breed, who choose to hurt themselves both mentally and physically on the daily for the benefit of others! 😂🤣😂
Pete Ledwidge please pete would you mind sending me a pm i have so many questions regarding a n62b44 engine with a worn valvetronic shaft according to some bmw specialists.... some also say its the sensor? I am in need of desperate help
@@hvmiddenwestnoord1871 apologies, I dont check the comments all that often. Did you resolve this? By sensor, I take it you mean the eccentric shaft sensor? The way to test the theory is to swap the sensor for a new / known good one. 3 10mm bolts and unclip, 10mins work. (If the sensor has built up a lot of oily crud on it, it's usually knackered.) If you still have the fault codes, after swap & code clear, then you know the problem is elsewhere. I'd say it's probably either valvetronic motor or timing chain / tensioner / Vanos intake sprocket related, as opposed to the actual eccentric cam, the cams have been known to sustain damage if the car has been run low on oil. Hope this helps.
Pete Ledwidge hello pete, i found out about intermediate lever wear that cause misfires on one or multiple cilinders, in my case i have misfire on cyl 5 bank 2 (V8 engine). I took out bearing bracket yesterday containing the eccentric shaft and intake camshaft and i read about alot of premature wear on specific intermediate levers produced around 2002-2004. Mine’s an early 2002 e65 so suggesting that the intermediate levers are worn causing a misfire on cil 5 bank 2 due to failing tolerance for intermediate lever roller causing wrong cylinder filling? Do you know where i can source good quality intermediate levers? I cant find any.
The valvetronic motor has a manual adjuster on the rear of the unit, a torx fitting if memory serves correctly. It can be wound to it's stops in either direction.👍🏼
@@peteledwidge3631 found it thank you. I was puzzled that moving the cam would not open the valves then I noticed the big motor and the other shaft and I thought about putting 12v but then I noticed a little hole. The tool I used was a 4mm allen. It seems like when looking at the back of the motor if you rotate it manually in the clockwise direction the valves are able to open. I thought this was kind of interesting. I really thought the cam sprockets did the advancing and retarding like some of the other 4 cylinder engines, but this design seems interesting.
Had a question sir ... I went to replace the valve cover gasket because it was leaking and discovered one leg of the timing gear retainer spring was off..... I was able to push it back into place, but is this common? Any ideas why it would happen? Any help would be very appreciated.
@@peteledwidge3631 the engine was running perfect... It's a 2014, the one spring leg was riding on the cam shaft, it only left a thin little line so looks like by chance i discovered it really early...,i was able to push the spring back into place, put the valve cover back on and started the car... We drove it a little today, I'm thinking about driving it for a week then removing the valve cover again tho look if it came out. Just sucks cause even if the spring is still on after a week of driving, it will already be on my mind, wondering if it's off ... Wierd, the spring looks perfect, the place it goes on looks perfect, wonder if it's worth having a new spring replaced on it..... If it's worth it. Don't know
Hi Pete, Thank you for your good solution, i've MINI 2009 with same engine on the video and we've repaired valve cover and engine rockers, springs etc. and now we get error 285C message from diagnostic tools and it says valvetronic motor position error. What will we need to do do you have any comments?
From memory, there's a reset screw in the rear of the motor (It's either hex or torx head). Turn that until it meets a stop end. Switch on the ignition and it should reset.
I watched the video on reloading the springs on a mini n12 engine but I used to short wrenches so I found two wrenches that I cut the open end. Off and added 18inchs extensions with pipe that Iflaten the end then I notice the wrenches so the spring would not move
It comes up with bit of force but stops after 1-2cm. It's surprising but shouldn't be too dangerous. Take car to remove as much pressure as possible as to not damage the aluminum threads.
Thanks Pete, agreed but as the engines are the same psa units but in different cars with no issues it make no sense why the same unit dropped in a peugeot body would play up, will report back and update when i find the fault. Cheers mate Jay
Jay Kent Makes no sense to me either pal, can only comment on my experience. I don't hate Peugeots or their drivers, had a few 205's back in the day & Peugeots earn me good money, so not knocking them. I personally wouldnt have another Pug, even if I was given it tho! 🤣
Telis D Hi Telis, yes... head gasket had gone on cylinder 4 (French) I.e. timing end. Giving the same problem, high oil consumption / smoking / oil in cylinder pot / misfire. I never replace a head gasket without rebuilding the head, do it right = do it once. Cheers.
@@wellwh0 Yes, we were aware that a 1.4 exists on both platforms. The question was if that specific engine is equipped with valvetronic and vanos systems.
Deny M The 'normal' valve springs were removed using a valve spring compressor once the Valvetronic gear and cam had been removed. Standard valve spring compressors are widely available cheaply almost anywhere. The intermediate rocker springs can be undone using the method in the vid. Bar & spanners through. Hold the pressure whilst undoing, and then let the pressure off slowly. Cheers.
Questions Ah, bugger... The pro tool is definately a bit easier than this method tho, in all fairness. I was just stuck and had to use a bit of ingenuity to stop paddling up sh*t creek! 🤣 In an ideal world I would have bought and used the pro tool, but there was time pressure & also if I bought every special tool every time I get an obscure vehicle in to work on, I'd have all the tools under the sun and no profit!
@@peteledwidge3631 well, you could say if I had your ingenuity, my thoughts wouldn't have gone in the direction of buying it. Nevertheless thanks for the idea... it's opened my mind to deep thinking.
ruclips.net/video/3gRhDKE8vKU/видео.html Pete, no the same engine but same principle see attache link at 2 minutes called inside the motor. Regards Jay
Jay Kent My apologies, it's been a while since I did this repair and I've seen a good few vehicles since! Yes, I was thinking of over the valve circular hydraulic pots, which this doesnt have. It does have lifters of the type in this video. With the valvetronic and normal rockers removed and the cam lobes on 1 facing away, you might just get away with pulling the lifter out with cam in situ pal, altho I suspect you'll end up with the cam off.
Jay Kent No probs Jay, I'm going to delete a couple of our messages and amend my original response to you, just to keep the information correct and concise for others viewing the comments pal. Also, I'd be interested to find out if the lifter removal is possible with cam on, so it'd be great if you'd come back and let us know your findings. Information shared helps us all out! 😊 Cheers pal.
@@peteledwidge3631 Hi my friend yes of course no issues what so ever, will be a while but have been looking for this fault for months and thrown lots of parts at it, as soon as i get confirmation that its worked and the removal method i will be more than happy to give an update. Your a gentleman its so nice to speak to someone like your good self😂 kindest regards Jay
Jay Kent Try me best Kidda, gotta try & help others where you can. Whole reason I started my mechanic business. If you run into problems with anything, get hold of me & I'll do my best to help if I can. 👍
![Young Nudy - John Wayne (feat. Metro Boomin) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NY8HnYYo2fo/mqdefault.jpg)
Lots of comments on the torque setting for the spring bolts, I didn't (and unfortunately still don't) have them. I used common sense, we're tightening steel into aluminium, so I went hand tight, and then used the mechanics "wrist" to gauge it. Hand tight and a quarter turn hasn't ever let me down with these. 👌
Soo helpfully been stock all day.
Saw this video and solved this problem.
Thanks
@@benben00981 Thanks my bro, glad it helped you out. 💪🩵
Very nice. It can also help to take some tension out of the long leg of the spring prior to loosening the bolt. Using a screwdriver, pry and move the spring leg out of the secondary rocker arm groove. This will take about 20% of tension out of the system and you don't have to fight as much pressure with the spanners.
thank you man, i spend along time trying to did this job with no results, your method its amazing but with one little problem its the little peace of metal you put it behind the springs because when i did this and finish it stuck there and it cant be removed then i change it with two alan wrenches putting them behind every spring vertically and it was easy to remove and again thank you.
You saved my job man. Big thanks.
Great advice one old head bolt two 11mm ring spanners and an old 1/4 ring spanner with the. Ring end cut off. Twenty minutes done Helper a must. Thanks
Great vid, changed my hydraulic valves lifters with it. Good tool :)
jeedebee Glad it helped you! 👍
Jeebedee Got another lad on here needing to do his lifters, was it possible to do them with the cam in place, or was it a cam off job? I'm thinking Cam off, but wasnt sure. Thanks. Pete.
Thanks a million this is proper mechanical genius 👌🏼
Thank you Sir, you're very kind. 👍
I had the same issue, the easiest way is to install the spring with the two fingers on top touching the cam and tighten the bolts holding the spring. Then take a long pair on needle nose plyers and grab one side of the spring and bend it down and hook it on the follower one at a time, doing two at a time is very hard. But doing then one arm at a time is very quick and easy, I've done it and its the way to go.
Thanks for the comment, use whatever works best for you! 👍
Félicitations.
Merci pour ce partage
Thank You so much for the idea!!
thank you , you jus save my life
The only way to do this - such a cool trick/ THANK YOU!
You're welcome.
Спасибо дружище, способ - проще не придумаешь, облегчил жизнь 👍
You're most welcome. 🙂
Thanks for sharing that's tip. I used it and its work very well.
My Lord just found another brother, may God bless you
Nice one. Saved the day. You do have to watch that the spanners don't push the triangular sheath around the hole too far, or else you'll cover the tapped hole in the head, and struggle to get the screw in. And watch those followers etc as the video mentions.
Glad it helped you out Andy... 😉
@@peteledwidge3631 you really did. mate of a mate bought a three grand car for £1400 for his daughter. Guess what, head gasket f****D. Just trying to sort it out for him without spending a sodding fortune. Thanks!
@@urbantuckerman Did you get a bit of a shock when you pulled the valve cover and discovered a whole new world of pain beneath? 😂 I certainly did...
Thank you for the video very helpful. Where would i find the torque specs for a 2011 mini cooper s n18 engine
Thanks bro God bless you..
Thank you man 👍👍
Hi mate, how do I get #2 & #3 spark plug tubes out from under the venos system ? Cheers
Good tip, but if you don't want to lose your eyesight, or damage the mechanism, you always should use the spring tool. I disassembled the Valvetronic on my N55. The preload is very high and dangerous!
What exactly do you imagine would come apart and get anywhere near your eyes Sir? If anybody is paranoid, by all means, wear eye protection... it's a good precaution anyhow. This method is sound & (I believe) the best 'no special tools' solution to the problem. Thanks for the comment.
Yo man, you just saved us a lot of time and effort with your little tutorial, because we woulda have to figure that out for ourselves. Nice one 👍🏾
Great video ❤️
Thank You Lucian.
Great solution Pete, Thanks. Where would I find the torque setting for the spring bolt and also the cam bolts?
Really depends on the platform, what vehicle is the engine in? Do you have the engine code for me?
Thanks mate 😉👊👍
Thanks Pete, i didnt think so, i did the timing twice and the garage today said they couldn't fix it so its come back to me to repair this engine has such a bad reputation they dont want to touch it, weird because my wifes mini has the exact same engine with no issues., they did ask if i used an inclinometer during timing of which i didnt i used a cam locking tool. Thanks mate will let you know if i find the dreaded cylinder 1 misfire at idle.
Jay Kent From my years of experience as a weekend tinkerer, then full time mechanic, Peugeots are Sh*te. (At least 80% of vehicles I see for serious defects are Peugeots, they keep me in business! 🤣). Other models using the PSA engines: ford, bmw, citroen etc dont have any issues with exactly the same units. I believe it must be down to Peugeot build quality. All it can be really.
whats the torque on that bolt that holds the spring down
Thanks you nice!! 🙏🙏😊😊
Hey thank you for the video, to replace the valve do I need time it? I can’t seem to fit the new one in.
It's all covered in the comments below, look for a comment by a man called Jay. I cover it there. 👍
Hi Pete, when you do timing on this engine do you need to do anything special to the eccentric camshaft motor, i also saw some one using an inclinometer as well as the locking tool during timing?
Jay Kent Nope, other than setting the wormdrive to least resistance on the rockers, using the adjuster on the rear of the motor unit. It will auto resync without diagnostic intervention.
On some valvetronic motors, there is a hex key driven (3mm I think) manual wind to detension the variable valve lift eccentric shaft, but it doesn't matter because the car re-initializes (re-learns the position) on every startup.
txs a f-ing lot man !
Good idea
Hi Great video, i have the same engine and beleive there is an issue with the hydraulic valve lifter on cylinder one, using your great method is it possible to change the valve lifters without removing the head and cam shaft? Kind regards Jay
Jay Kent, Hi pal, check out other YT vids for the working principle of valvetronic, it will help your understanding of the system and aid your diagnosis. 👍 It will be possible to do the job you describe with the head on, but you'll need to remove the cam / valvetronic system. It's less daunting then you would expect, with the correct tools for the job. You'll need the correct timing & spring compressor tools (if spring is broken) which are both inexpensive on flea bay. Check these links.
Spring compressor:
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F15017008733%3Fiid%3D282723513151
Timing tools:
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201312710448
I'm working on an engine that has bent valves and damaged the seats, which had detached from the head. Watching your video, I see how you've got round the heavy top springs in a great way. The question I have is the fitting of the lower inlet camshaft (the camshaft with the toothed quadrant which is driven by the worm gear.) is it positioned in a certain way so the worm drive is meshed ?
Thanks
There is an usually an allen / torx bolt in the rear body of the worm drive. Wind the worm gear all the way anti-clockwise to give the least resistance on the shaft and then place the valvetronic cam in with lobes off TDC, so that they will be providing the least pressure on other components. The worm drive will self adjust on turning the ignition. Alternatively remove the worm drive completely, so that no pressure is present, and install after installation of the valvetronic shaft. Either will work.
Pete Ledwidge thankyou for your kind reply, I'm replacing bent exhaust valves on No 4 cylinder, the inlets are bent also, and the seats have detached. This was caused by an overheating fault, the head got too hot, the inlet seats came adrift and stopped the engine.
I've stripped the head, had it skimmed and I'm waiting for he valves to arrive. Your explanation is very helpful, I've been trying to work it out, and like your video on the way to refit the springs is indeed clever.
I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks and best regards steve
@@stevenlangdon-griffiths293 Sorry, long day on the tools, these valvetronic engines are another level of misery! 😆 Let me know how you get on. 👌🏼
Pete Ledwidge hi there, I rebuilt the engine, it runs well and I Learned quite a lot about the cooper too. It had bent valves on No. four cylinder and the seats had dropped out. I worked out the lower inlet camshaft position ok. For your info, the video you made helped me a great deal. Thanks very much indeed.
Im doing this right now. And was very anxious to have to spend 200€ more on tooling for this repair (im stil small) already bought locking tools and the valve stem tools also Make my own Air compresión hose/tube. And when i see the cost of pliers was like dammmmm your video put some light on my way THANKS so much (suscribed, following, like and all the good stuff for you) 👍👍🤘🤘
Hi and your video is very good, I have a 1.6 vti 120hp 2008 engine and it has an oil consumption, not made smoke from the exhaust pipe, I have been told that it is possible that it is the gaskets of the valves, what can you tell me by your experience, thanks
Valve stem seal oil leaks (I assume this is what you refer to) usually result in blue smoke from the exhaust. If it's not burning oil, is the oil in the coolant? This would suggest headgasket failure. Only other scenario would be an external oil leak to atmosphere. 👍
Hey Pete, I'm about to re-install a freshly resurfaced and rebuilt cylinder head in my 2010 Mini Cooper Clubman (N12, non-turbo motor) and I have a question that maybe you can help with?! I removed the Valvetronic motor prior to dropping off the head at the machine shop, and realize that I'm not sure how to properly re-install it to keep everything in time. Do I simply insert the motor and use the allen key slot in the rear to thread the motor back in and tighten down the three hold down bolts through the triangular flange on the motor? Is any other adjustment needed? Thanks!!
Use the allen key to fit the stepper motor back in easily, the motor will auto test and reset to it's proper location, after initial key on. 👍
Just the answer to this i was looking for.
Kudos for the "bar and spanner" idea, thats the difference between a mechanic and a fitter.
This has been up for almost a year now and only 9 dislikes, that's a pretty good going... I think 9 people probably bought a very expensive tool, then felt some proper hot chilli butt hurt when they realised they could have done it for almost nothing. 🤣
Pete if you change the tittle to just " bmw N55 valvetronic spring removal" or something like that , thing more people would benefit from this
@@SanDoval201970 so, I take it you dont like peugeot owners?! Hehe! Not after view counts on YT mate, if you like it and it's relevant, share the good news brother! Other than that the title remains, for 2 good reasons 1) CBA to change it, 2) I'd have to re-upload which would basically kill the whole thing dead. Thanks anyway! 😉
Hey man. Wanted to thank you for the video, I swapped connecting rods in a bmw n55 engine and used your method for the valvetronic springs. Worked like a charm. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks Pete !!! have you ever had this motor intermittently hiccup at idle and under load or not but not caused by load on the motor ....im thinking broken valve spring ??
Could be that, have you checked for fault codes? These engines are so needlessly over engineered that it could be a number of things.
@@peteledwidge3631 Thanks checked for fault codes nothing , but the pollution warning comes on and car misses no power , still no codes . i regapped the plugs seems different , they were about 2mm ...cheers
Get a fresh set of plugs in, they cost next to nothing. Check the coil packs by disconnecting each in turn with the engine running, each 1 should cause a misfire when disconnected. If any do not cause a change in engine note, replace as necessary.
Gracias por información
De Nada. 😁👊
Brilliant
Thanyou for this great Advice! iam going to use your method...
Thanx bro
Your way looks like it would be easier. And the cost of the tool is crazy
Great video, very informative. You seem like a very resourceful individual. You could work in my shop. lol
Roland Doucet Cheers, I'm lucky enough to have a good, logical approach to problem solving & it's always served me well. 👍
Great video Pete, I'm about to work on my wife's mini, I'm ex mechanic myself, noise that comes from the valvetrain sounds like damage due to oil starvation as I can hear high pitch squeak with 1 sec intervals. Hope ain't the cam journals . I'm planning to change all 16 rocker arms ( intermediate rockers ) as that's my best bet going by the noise I hear. Do you think locking the timing at the flywheel will be sufficient enough to play with those horrible springs and change the rockers ? Thanks
As far as I know the cam locking tool aint too expensive, I'd get and use both in order to time everything up on the way back together, other than that you should be all good to leave the head in place. Lock the crank, leave the chain hanging and proceed from there. 👍
P.S. You're never an 'ex' mechanic... once you have the skills to repair a motor, you are always a mechanic, regardless of what career you persue next. Mechanics are a rare breed, who choose to hurt themselves both mentally and physically on the daily for the benefit of others! 😂🤣😂
Pete Ledwidge please pete would you mind sending me a pm i have so many questions regarding a n62b44 engine with a worn valvetronic shaft according to some bmw specialists.... some also say its the sensor? I am in need of desperate help
@@hvmiddenwestnoord1871 apologies, I dont check the comments all that often. Did you resolve this? By sensor, I take it you mean the eccentric shaft sensor? The way to test the theory is to swap the sensor for a new / known good one. 3 10mm bolts and unclip, 10mins work. (If the sensor has built up a lot of oily crud on it, it's usually knackered.) If you still have the fault codes, after swap & code clear, then you know the problem is elsewhere. I'd say it's probably either valvetronic motor or timing chain / tensioner / Vanos intake sprocket related, as opposed to the actual eccentric cam, the cams have been known to sustain damage if the car has been run low on oil. Hope this helps.
Pete Ledwidge hello pete, i found out about intermediate lever wear that cause misfires on one or multiple cilinders, in my case i have misfire on cyl 5 bank 2 (V8 engine). I took out bearing bracket yesterday containing the eccentric shaft and intake camshaft and i read about alot of premature wear on specific intermediate levers produced around 2002-2004. Mine’s an early 2002 e65 so suggesting that the intermediate levers are worn causing a misfire on cil 5 bank 2 due to failing tolerance for intermediate lever roller causing wrong cylinder filling? Do you know where i can source good quality intermediate levers? I cant find any.
Does the motor take 12v to actuate it? Forward and reverse, respectively?
The valvetronic motor has a manual adjuster on the rear of the unit, a torx fitting if memory serves correctly. It can be wound to it's stops in either direction.👍🏼
@@peteledwidge3631 found it thank you. I was puzzled that moving the cam would not open the valves then I noticed the big motor and the other shaft and I thought about putting 12v but then I noticed a little hole. The tool I used was a 4mm allen. It seems like when looking at the back of the motor if you rotate it manually in the clockwise direction the valves are able to open. I thought this was kind of interesting. I really thought the cam sprockets did the advancing and retarding like some of the other 4 cylinder engines, but this design seems interesting.
Had a question sir ... I went to replace the valve cover gasket because it was leaking and discovered one leg of the timing gear retainer spring was off..... I was able to push it back into place, but is this common? Any ideas why it would happen? Any help would be very appreciated.
Was the engine suffering any for that? Not seen it myself tbh, but I can only suggest not installed correctly from the factory, really. 🤷♂️
@@peteledwidge3631 the engine was running perfect... It's a 2014, the one spring leg was riding on the cam shaft, it only left a thin little line so looks like by chance i discovered it really early...,i was able to push the spring back into place, put the valve cover back on and started the car... We drove it a little today, I'm thinking about driving it for a week then removing the valve cover again tho look if it came out. Just sucks cause even if the spring is still on after a week of driving, it will already be on my mind, wondering if it's off ... Wierd, the spring looks perfect, the place it goes on looks perfect, wonder if it's worth having a new spring replaced on it..... If it's worth it. Don't know
@@iborges1794 I'd leave it as is, and check again, as you say. 👍
Hi Pete, Thank you for your good solution, i've MINI 2009 with same engine on the video and we've repaired valve cover and engine rockers, springs etc. and now we get error 285C message from diagnostic tools and it says valvetronic motor position error. What will we need to do do you have any comments?
From memory, there's a reset screw in the rear of the motor (It's either hex or torx head). Turn that until it meets a stop end. Switch on the ignition and it should reset.
@@peteledwidge3631 yes i did but still error comes when afyer runing engine :(
I watched the video on reloading the springs on a mini n12 engine but I used to short wrenches so I found two wrenches that I cut the open end. Off and added 18inchs extensions with pipe that Iflaten the end then I notice the wrenches so the spring would not move
There's always more than one way to skin a cat. 👍
Hi, When you first undo the bolt that holds the spring, does the spring stay in place, or could it pop out, is it dangerous?
It'll raise up, no more dangerous than any other job. Just do it slowly and wear eye protection, you'll be fine! 👊
@@peteledwidge3631 Thanks Pete
It comes up with bit of force but stops after 1-2cm. It's surprising but shouldn't be too dangerous. Take car to remove as much pressure as possible as to not damage the aluminum threads.
Hello i repair idle Peugeot 208 plz tell mee how i set timing veriable valve timing
Watch this from 5:30 onwards. 👍 ruclips.net/video/ARzNzSJYQj8/видео.html
Thanks Pete, agreed but as the engines are the same psa units but in different cars with no issues it make no sense why the same unit dropped in a peugeot body would play up, will report back and update when i find the fault. Cheers mate Jay
Jay Kent Makes no sense to me either pal, can only comment on my experience. I don't hate Peugeots or their drivers, had a few 205's back in the day & Peugeots earn me good money, so not knocking them. I personally wouldnt have another Pug, even if I was given it tho! 🤣
Can i ask something???What was the problem with this engine???I have the same vehicle and after 200000km is burning oil(1litre per 4000km)
Telis D Hi Telis, yes... head gasket had gone on cylinder 4 (French) I.e. timing end. Giving the same problem, high oil consumption / smoking / oil in cylinder pot / misfire. I never replace a head gasket without rebuilding the head, do it right = do it once. Cheers.
Check your oil seals too.
Sorry but don't you mean 1 litre per 400km? Otherwise I think that's not entirely bad.
Sorry for the delay...its correct 1lt per 4000km.For me its a big number...but i have to get use to it...
Bad PVC valve ..
This works perfectly just do it exactly like shown! ez-pezee!
What torque settings did you use on those bolts?
Logic!
Does Mini 1.4 has Valvetronic and VANOS?
Petrol or diesel? Year? I don't 'think' so but would need more info to determine.
@@peteledwidge3631 R56 Mini, 2007. 1.4 95hp. Engine is also in Peugeot 207 but with less hp.
@@wellwh0 Yes, we were aware that a 1.4 exists on both platforms. The question was if that specific engine is equipped with valvetronic and vanos systems.
Pete Ledwidge I looked in. It does have both. It dosen’t have direct injection. It has multi point injection.
Where these springs installed already and you where just showing how it should be done?
Entirely that.
Whats the spring bolt torque
Did you find the torque specs??
@@crisr.9447 any luck
How did you remove valve springs?
Deny M The 'normal' valve springs were removed using a valve spring compressor once the Valvetronic gear and cam had been removed. Standard valve spring compressors are widely available cheaply almost anywhere. The intermediate rocker springs can be undone using the method in the vid. Bar & spanners through. Hold the pressure whilst undoing, and then let the pressure off slowly. Cheers.
Seriously? Can't believe I'm just finding this video after spending almost $250 on the valvetronic spring tool.
Questions Ah, bugger... The pro tool is definately a bit easier than this method tho, in all fairness. I was just stuck and had to use a bit of ingenuity to stop paddling up sh*t creek! 🤣 In an ideal world I would have bought and used the pro tool, but there was time pressure & also if I bought every special tool every time I get an obscure vehicle in to work on, I'd have all the tools under the sun and no profit!
That tool is advertised at nearly $700 dollars in Canada. If you scored it for $250, you did well.
@@peteledwidge3631 well, you could say if I had your ingenuity, my thoughts wouldn't have gone in the direction of buying it. Nevertheless thanks for the idea... it's opened my mind to deep thinking.
@@rolanddoucet9437 😂😂😂 actually, I still wish I hadn't.
Bmw n20
"
ruclips.net/video/3gRhDKE8vKU/видео.html
Pete, no the same engine but same principle see attache link at 2 minutes called inside the motor. Regards Jay
Jay Kent My apologies, it's been a while since I did this repair and I've seen a good few vehicles since! Yes, I was thinking of over the valve circular hydraulic pots, which this doesnt have. It does have lifters of the type in this video. With the valvetronic and normal rockers removed and the cam lobes on 1 facing away, you might just get away with pulling the lifter out with cam in situ pal, altho I suspect you'll end up with the cam off.
@@peteledwidge3631 thanks Pete, i thought i was going mad for a while there, really appreciate all your help and advise, keep up the great work 😊
Jay Kent No probs Jay, I'm going to delete a couple of our messages and amend my original response to you, just to keep the information correct and concise for others viewing the comments pal. Also, I'd be interested to find out if the lifter removal is possible with cam on, so it'd be great if you'd come back and let us know your findings. Information shared helps us all out! 😊 Cheers pal.
@@peteledwidge3631 Hi my friend yes of course no issues what so ever, will be a while but have been looking for this fault for months and thrown lots of parts at it, as soon as i get confirmation that its worked and the removal method i will be more than happy to give an update.
Your a gentleman its so nice to speak to someone like your good self😂 kindest regards Jay
Jay Kent Try me best Kidda, gotta try & help others where you can. Whole reason I started my mechanic business. If you run into problems with anything, get hold of me & I'll do my best to help if I can. 👍
Absolute crap design though let's be honest
Don't you know it Brother. 🤣